80-96-list-digest Saturday, May 29 1999 Volume 03 : Number 150



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - still clicking
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radio reception
Re: FTE 80-96 - Knocking and pinging and missing
RE: FTE 80-96 - Radio reception
Re: FTE 80-96 - Knocking and pinging and missing
FTE 80-96 - Knocking and pinging and missing
RE: FTE 80-96 - Radio reception
FTE 80-96 - 89 351 surge problem, still, update
Re: FTE 80-96 - 89 351 surge problem, still, update
Re: FTE 80-96 - 89 351 surge problem, still, update
Re: FTE 80-96 - 89 351 surge problem, still, update
Re: FTE 80-96 - 89 351 surge problem, still, update
Re: FTE 80-96 - 89 351 surge problem, still, update
FTE 80-96 - 89 351 Idle Surge
FTE 80-96 - Shop Manuals
Re: FTE 80-96 - Shop Manuals
FTE 80-96 - hard starting
Re: FTE 80-96 - OD boggs engine
Re: FTE 80-96 - hard starting
Re: FTE 80-96 - OD boggs engine
FTE 80-96 - Mount Washington
Re: FTE 80-96 - Knocking and pinging and missing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Knocking and pinging and missing
FTE 80-96 - Parking brake trouble
RE: FTE 80-96 - hard starting
FTE 80-96 - bogging AOD
Re: FTE 80-96 - bogging AOD

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 06:55:13 -0400
From: "Todd Schiller"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - still clicking

Also check the plumbing to EGR this can get pinholes in it causing exhuast
leak.


>Check for exhaust manifold leak. See if nuts/bolts are tight. Has the
>exhaust manifold ever been off? Can you see if there is an exhayst manifold
>gasket? It does not come from the factory with one, but there are good
>aftermarket ones you can put on.
>
>At 00:58 27/05/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>Well, first of all let me say thank you for all of the suggestions about
>>my clicking during acceleration problem. Unfortunately, it doesnt look
>>like any of them have given the desired results. As has been suggested, I
>>checked for loose spark plugs, no problem there. I have run some fuel
>>injector cleaner through my gas tank, no change there. There was a hole
>>in my muffler, which was replaced, but did not eliminate the clicking.
>>
>>Some other suggestions included possibly a bad tappet, but the clicking
>>doesnt seem to be consistent enough to suggest that. A bad u-joint was
>>also mentioned, but after inspection, that doesnt seem to be it either.
>>
>>Basically, I am experiencing a clicking-type sound during moderate
>>acceleration, usually in the mid-range of each gear. It is not present
>>during very light acceleration, but every time the gas pedal is depressed
>>even a decent amount, it can be heard. It is definitely not the engine
>>pinging, because I can notice that at different times. And the clicking
>>cannot be heard in neutral.
>>
>>Does anyone have any other thoughts on this? I am by no means an
>>automotive expert, so I was hoping somebody here would know something
>>about this. My usual mechanic, who has been very trustworthy in the past,
>>seems to write this off as just being a ten year old pickup with a few
>>ten-year old pickup problems. However, being that this clicking started
>>all of a sudden, I would like to think it can be ended all of a sudden
>>too, so I am not giving up. Any help would be appreciated.
>>
>>Luke Schreier
>>89 F-150 I6 4x4
>>
>>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>>
>Jim Cannon
>Houston, TX
>'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
>'63 Buick Riviera
>'80 Ford F-150
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>



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 07:02:56 -0400
From: "Todd Schiller"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radio reception

AM is more susceptible to noise and interference than FM due entirely to its
modulation scheme. This is why FM is more popular now days however a good
noise filter in line with radio should clean up any interference caused by
the vehicles electrical system.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Blake Malkamaki
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, May 28, 1999 2:33 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Radio reception


>>Thanks all,
>>
>>I'm in SoCal...in checking all the responses, I believe I am in some
serious
>>need. My FM is ok(mind you, I didn't say great)..as far as am goes, it's
>>awfully weak...guess I'll start with the antennae and cable and go from
>>there...sounds like a new radio is a possibility as well to me...
>>
>>One other question, maybe this will help...I recently changed my flasher,
>>and now I can hear it through the radio(sometimes louder than others)...
>>
>>Does this give any help to diagnosis...
>>
>>Thanks in advance..
>
>My FM is great, but on AM I can hear my flasher, my brake lights, my
>heater, my wipers and my spark plugs. It is a good Kenwood, but older as I
>bought in new in about 85.
>
>
>Blake
>Little Mountain
>Concord, Ohio
>Early Oil Well Historian
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
>Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
>Desktop Publishing service
>"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 07:31:55 -0400
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Knocking and pinging and missing

Blake,

Two possibilities:

1. No matter how good the wires are, if #7 and #8 ever get close to
each other, they will crossfire. Run #8 over the intake manifold,
around the back of the head, and to the plug. I realize that you said
you separated them. By the way, the good NAPA wires were between $80
and $100, and I wasn't that impressed. I had better luck with Accel
(but a header leak toasted one of them), and now I have a set of Ford
Motorsport wires that were under $50.

2. You may have a bad plug. Mine would idle OK, but was almost
undriveable. The plug that went bad probably only had about 5,000 miles
on it. Visually, it looked perfect, and there was no sign of mis-fire.
How did I find it? I had replaced the distributor cap in case the
problem was there. The next day, I took the cap off to look at it.
Seven of the terminals had a very normal slight discoloration from the
arc. The eighth was perfectly clean. I changed that one spark plug
with an old one out of the cellar, and it ran fine.

In my case, it gradually got worse over several days, and got to the
point where I had an almost constant backfire on the highway. I would
be down to third at times, and couldn't get it over 45 or 50 MPH. I
thought it would blow up before I got home.

Good luck,
Steve S.

Blake Malkamaki wrote:
>
> Well the knocking and pinging has definately gotten to my truck. To recap
> what has happened over the last few days...
>
> The engine has been running perfectly until a few days ago when I started
> to get a miss now and then. Not a continous miss, just a stumble.
>
> Well I figured the most likely, and easiest thing to try was to replace the
> spark plug wires. I bought a set from Autozone - double silicone - supposed
> to be the best ones they have. Well immediately after I installed them, the
> truck started to knock and ping on hills and then almost continuously at
> about 65 mph.
>
> Today I filled one tank with 92 octane gas just to see if that would help -
> it did not. Then I took someone on here's advice and made sure all the
> wires were separated and could not be cross-firing. I drove it around home
> a little and figured I had it solved.
>
> Well tonight I started to head to West Virginia to my fiance's and got 10
> miles down the freeway and she started to knocking again and then lost
> power bad and would not run in overdrive. I turned around and made it back
> home ok and am now sitting here wondering what to do next.
>
> I checked the vacuum on the engine at idle and it is right up there around
> 20 inches. Idle seems ok, but a little rough. When I rev it up from the
> thottle body it seems to stumble around and miss, but not a definate dead
> cylinder.
>
> The only thing that has been changed are the plug wires, so I am assuming
> they are the trouble. I think I will go to NAPA and get their best set
> tomorrow and try them. I don't see what else could have changed all of a
> sudden to make the engine run so rotten.
>
> Anyone have any other advice, other than to stick to diesels?
>
> Specs: 1988, F-150, 302, 5-speed
>
> Blake
> Little Mountain
> Concord, Ohio
> Early Oil Well Historian
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
> Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
> Desktop Publishing service
> "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 07:38:43 -0700
From: "Bud Dean"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Radio reception

Any recs as to what type and where to buy a quality antennae and cable?

Thanks,

Bud

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Todd Schiller
Sent: Friday, May 28, 1999 4:03 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radio reception


AM is more susceptible to noise and interference than FM due entirely to its
modulation scheme. This is why FM is more popular now days however a good
noise filter in line with radio should clean up any interference caused by
the vehicles electrical system.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Blake Malkamaki
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, May 28, 1999 2:33 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Radio reception


>>Thanks all,
>>
>>I'm in SoCal...in checking all the responses, I believe I am in some
serious
>>need. My FM is ok(mind you, I didn't say great)..as far as am goes, it's
>>awfully weak...guess I'll start with the antennae and cable and go from
>>there...sounds like a new radio is a possibility as well to me...
>>
>>One other question, maybe this will help...I recently changed my flasher,
>>and now I can hear it through the radio(sometimes louder than others)...
>>
>>Does this give any help to diagnosis...
>>
>>Thanks in advance..
>
>My FM is great, but on AM I can hear my flasher, my brake lights, my
>heater, my wipers and my spark plugs. It is a good Kenwood, but older as I
>bought in new in about 85.
>
>
>Blake
>Little Mountain
>Concord, Ohio
>Early Oil Well Historian
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
>Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
>Desktop Publishing service
>"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 10:36:52 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Knocking and pinging and missing

>Blake,
>
>Two possibilities:
>
>1. No matter how good the wires are, if #7 and #8 ever get close to
>each other, they will crossfire. Run #8 over the intake manifold,
>around the back of the head, and to the plug. I realize that you said
>you separated them. By the way, the good NAPA wires were between $80
>and $100, and I wasn't that impressed. I had better luck with Accel
>(but a header leak toasted one of them), and now I have a set of Ford
>Motorsport wires that were under $50.

Thanks Steve,
I will go out and check this out in a little bit. I'll have to call around
to find out where I can get some Accel wires locally. Maybe our Ford dealer
has the Motorsport wires. I will also separate #7 and #8 more.

>
>2. You may have a bad plug. Mine would idle OK, but was almost
>undriveable. The plug that went bad probably only had about 5,000 miles
>on it. Visually, it looked perfect, and there was no sign of mis-fire.
>How did I find it? I had replaced the distributor cap in case the
>problem was there. The next day, I took the cap off to look at it.
>Seven of the terminals had a very normal slight discoloration from the
>arc. The eighth was perfectly clean. I changed that one spark plug
>with an old one out of the cellar, and it ran fine.

I have a new set of Bosch Platinum plugs in there now- maybe those things
are no good? BTW, can you still pull one wire out of the distributor at a
time to find which cylinder is not firing? I was not sure if that would
screw up the computer, so I did not try it.

>
>In my case, it gradually got worse over several days, and got to the
>point where I had an almost constant backfire on the highway. I would
>be down to third at times, and couldn't get it over 45 or 50 MPH. I
>thought it would blow up before I got home.
>
>Good luck,
>Steve S.
>
>Blake Malkamaki wrote:
>>
>> Well the knocking and pinging has definately gotten to my truck. To recap
>> what has happened over the last few days...
>>
>> The engine has been running perfectly until a few days ago when I started
>> to get a miss now and then. Not a continous miss, just a stumble.
>>
>> Well I figured the most likely, and easiest thing to try was to replace the
>> spark plug wires. I bought a set from Autozone - double silicone - supposed
>> to be the best ones they have. Well immediately after I installed them, the
>> truck started to knock and ping on hills and then almost continuously at
>> about 65 mph.
>>
>> Today I filled one tank with 92 octane gas just to see if that would help -
>> it did not. Then I took someone on here's advice and made sure all the
>> wires were separated and could not be cross-firing. I drove it around home
>> a little and figured I had it solved.
>>
>> Well tonight I started to head to West Virginia to my fiance's and got 10
>> miles down the freeway and she started to knocking again and then lost
>> power bad and would not run in overdrive. I turned around and made it back
>> home ok and am now sitting here wondering what to do next.
>>
>> I checked the vacuum on the engine at idle and it is right up there around
>> 20 inches. Idle seems ok, but a little rough. When I rev it up from the
>> thottle body it seems to stumble around and miss, but not a definate dead
>> cylinder.
>>
>> The only thing that has been changed are the plug wires, so I am assuming
>> they are the trouble. I think I will go to NAPA and get their best set
>> tomorrow and try them. I don't see what else could have changed all of a
>> sudden to make the engine run so rotten.
>>
>> Anyone have any other advice, other than to stick to diesels?
>>
>> Specs: 1988, F-150, 302, 5-speed
>>
>> Blake
>> Little Mountain
>> Concord, Ohio
>> Early Oil Well Historian
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
>> Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
>> Desktop Publishing service
>> "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
>>
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 10:11:38 -0500
From: Neal Osburn
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Knocking and pinging and missing

>Anyone have any other advice, other than to stick to diesels?

Stay away from autozone plug wires.

I experienced the uphill ping and found that one of the autozone wires had
gone bad. A few other list members expressed the same symptom/cure. Each
of us had used autozone's "premium" wire. Every set may not be bad, but
there seems to be a pattern.

Neal

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 09:18:13 -0600
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Radio reception

I assume by noise filter you are talking about a coil and capacitor in the
12 volt power lines to the radio. That won't help. AM interference is mostly
caused by radio waves into the antenna. AM is too acceptable to RF
interference. There is not a cheap and satisfactory fix for AM noise. You
can purchase a DSP (digital signal processor) that connects between the
antenna and the radio but it will not be cheap. I listen to AM radio
sometimes on my amateur radio and use one. They start around 100 bucks.

Interesting side note: The little ball on the antenna is called a "corona
ball". It is used to reduce the build up of electrons on the antenna wire as
it wipes them from the air while moving. The ball allows the antenna to
discharge the electrons at a much lower voltage level than if it was a flat
rod. This discharge creates static, the lower the discharge voltage level
the less noise it creates. Bottom line is If you don't have it you will hear
more noise.

Scott



- -----Original Message-----
From:Todd Schiller [SMTP:tschiller email.msn.com]
Sent:Friday, May 28, 1999 4:03 AM
To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - Radio reception

AM is more susceptible to noise and interference than FM due entirely to its
modulation scheme. This is why FM is more popular now days however a good
noise filter in line with radio should clean up any interference caused by
the vehicles electrical system.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Blake Malkamaki
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, May 28, 1999 2:33 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Radio reception


>>Thanks all,
>>
>>I'm in SoCal...in checking all the responses, I believe I am in some
serious
>>need. My FM is ok(mind you, I didn't say great)..as far as am goes, it's
>>awfully weak...guess I'll start with the antennae and cable and go from
>>there...sounds like a new radio is a possibility as well to me...
>>
>>One other question, maybe this will help...I recently changed my flasher,
>>and now I can hear it through the radio(sometimes louder than others)...
>>
>>Does this give any help to diagnosis...
>>
>>Thanks in advance..
>
>My FM is great, but on AM I can hear my flasher, my brake lights, my
>heater, my wipers and my spark plugs. It is a good Kenwood, but older as I
>bought in new in about 85.
>
>
>Blake
>Little Mountain
>Concord, Ohio
>Early Oil Well Historian
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
>Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
>Desktop Publishing service
>"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 09:38:10 -0700
From: "Mike Mueller"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 89 351 surge problem, still, update

Hey all!
It's still surging after cleaning out the Valve on the throttle body.
Yesterday I replaced the fuel filter, even though it has problems mainly at
idle, it was one of the unknowns I had so I did it anyway.

another observation...
It seems to be running rich, very rich. I have a very sooty tailpipe which
I noticed only after I revved it up while parked next to our car. It
blasted a huge splatch of soot on the door of the car. This is right after
I had replaced the filter.
Today I am going to replace all the spark plugs and check all the
connections.

Any ideas will be promptly looked into.

Thanks again!
Mike Mueller
The Leasing Dept.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 13:03:14 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 89 351 surge problem, still, update

Mike Mueller wrote:
>
> Hey all!
> It's still surging after cleaning out the Valve on the throttle body.
> Yesterday I replaced the fuel filter, even though it has problems mainly at
> idle, it was one of the unknowns I had so I did it anyway.
>
> another observation...
> It seems to be running rich, very rich. I have a very sooty tailpipe which
> I noticed only after I revved it up while parked next to our car. It
> blasted a huge splatch of soot on the door of the car. This is right after
> I had replaced the filter.
> Today I am going to replace all the spark plugs and check all the
> connections.
>
I havn't been following this too closely (ok, not at all), but, how's
the O2 sensor? How old is it (miles)?. They will wear out after a while
and either give erratic signals to the computer or a wrong signla. This
will cause bad idling because the fuel mixure is way off.

Can you pull the codes from the computer? (rats, I have the web page URL
at home for pulling and interpreting them)

Knowing the codes can help a lot, if there are codes, because knowing
them gives you an insight into what the computer is "thinking".

A good place to start withoout knowing the codes right now, is cheking
the wiring from the O2 sensor (sensorS?) to the wiring harness, and
basically going over the harness. Look for broken or chafed wires, which
will create spurious signals to the ECU.
- --
Andre
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 12:21:49 -0500
From: vince a smith
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 89 351 surge problem, still, update

Links to Ford codes:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3eeccodes2.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3eeccodes3.html
I think Andre has a good point. Someone should be able to tell you what voltage
it should read at Idle, if its telling computer it too lean then is going to try
and correct.
Good luck, Vince

Andre Roy wrote:

> Mike Mueller wrote:
> >
> > Hey all!
> > It's still surging after cleaning out the Valve on the throttle body.
> > Yesterday I replaced the fuel filter, even though it has problems mainly at
> > idle, it was one of the unknowns I had so I did it anyway.
> >
> > another observation...
> > It seems to be running rich, very rich. I have a very sooty tailpipe which
> > I noticed only after I revved it up while parked next to our car. It
> > blasted a huge splatch of soot on the door of the car. This is right after
> > I had replaced the filter.
> > Today I am going to replace all the spark plugs and check all the
> > connections.
> >
> I havn't been following this too closely (ok, not at all), but, how's
> the O2 sensor? How old is it (miles)?. They will wear out after a while
> and either give erratic signals to the computer or a wrong signla. This
> will cause bad idling because the fuel mixure is way off.
>
> Can you pull the codes from the computer? (rats, I have the web page URL
> at home for pulling and interpreting them)
>
> Knowing the codes can help a lot, if there are codes, because knowing
> them gives you an insight into what the computer is "thinking".
>
> A good place to start withoout knowing the codes right now, is cheking
> the wiring from the O2 sensor (sensorS?) to the wiring harness, and
> basically going over the harness. Look for broken or chafed wires, which
> will create spurious signals to the ECU.
> --
> Andre
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 13:28:20 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 89 351 surge problem, still, update

vince a smith wrote:
>
> Links to Ford codes:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3eeccodes2.html
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3eeccodes3.html
> I think Andre has a good point. Someone should be able to tell you what voltage
> it should read at Idle, if its telling computer it too lean then is going to try
> and correct.
>
0.5V is stoich, (there's more letters in that word, darned if I know
what they are ;-), and the engine should be running at about that at
idle and cruise. At startup, it will likely be rich, as well as at WFO.

Lower voltage is lean, higher is rich. Ideally, the voltage will
fluctuate around .5, when it's over a bit, the computer will shorten the
injector pulse width to lean it out, when it starts getting lean, it
will richen things up a tad. Classic negative feedback loop.

Use a digital voltmeter to read the voltage. Actually, for giggles,
disconnect the O2 sensor, if things improve, then you have your culprit.
They would improve because, with the sensor disconnected, the computer
will go into open-loop (=limp-home) mode and do a best guess instead of
relying on an erroneous reading.
- --
Andre
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 13:42:18 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 89 351 surge problem, still, update

In a message dated 5/28/99 1:03:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
andre dns3.unipissing.ca writes:


at home for pulling and interpreting them)

Knowing the codes can help a lot, if there are codes, because knowing
them gives you an insight into what the computer is "thinking".
>>


This site has the code reading and deciphering info
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html. I also have a link to this on my
website!
Later,
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
Wayne's Page
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 13:36:22 -0500
From: Steve Randa
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 89 351 surge problem, still, update

I've got an AOD in my '84 and need to change the speedo driven gear.
Does anyone know if the tranny has a 7 or an 8 drive gear in it?

Steve Randa
'84 F150
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 15:03:19 -0700
From: "Mike Mueller"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 89 351 Idle Surge

Update:
I just replaced all the plugs and all were very sooty, a dark black soot.
As I was under the truck, (easier to get to #4 that way), I noticed one of
the vaccume hoses was broken off at the doo-hickey that looks like some kind
of air valve next to the #4 sparkplug. Can't seem to find this in my manual
(Haynes). Best guess is that it's the air bypass/air control valve,
(That's page 180 fig. 6.11 for those of you following along at home).
I repaired the hose with silicone and tape and hopefully it seals up ok.

Could this be the problem?
Also what about a malfunctioning EGR?




Thanks!
Mike Mueller
The Leasing Dept.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 15:18:27 -0700
From: "Steve Proctor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Shop Manuals

Just picked up a 1996 Ford F-150 4x4 SB w/5.0 and AOD and I love it. Was
wondering, what is the best shop manual to get for my truck, and where is a
good place to get it. Also, the rear end code (on the door) says its a
"H9". Anyone know what that is as far as ratio and if its a Limited slip or
not?

Thanks!
sproctor microline.org


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 18:22:57 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Shop Manuals

I have the Chilton's Book for my 1989 and i got my book on EBay . It was
cheaper there with shipping than getting it at the local Bookstore or Auto
parts store. I have both Chiltons and the Haynes cause if you use both
sometimes one has a shortcut the other doesnt have. and for the few dollars
they cost each, its a worthwhile investment
Bob
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 17:13:43 -0600
From: "John Krick"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - hard starting

Thanks for all the help, especialy pcmtbaker. 85 F-150 w 351. Found a
mechanic to diagnose at least the first problem. The vaccum advance on the
distributor leaks bad. It's on order now. Will still look into emission
stuff if problem still persists. Could someone fill me in a little on this
code thing that uses the trucks computer to tell you what's wrong. What do I
need to do this?

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 20:34:43 -0400
From: "Troy Williams"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - OD boggs engine

On 27 May 99, at 15:47, Mobilepdr aol.com wrote:

>i beliece i hace the e4od i'm not sure though i haven't investigated
>yet....its the 5.0 v8 all wheel drive model with 3;73 axles...
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ford-
trucks.com/faq.html

I have an '84 F-150 with a 302 V8. I do know that it's an Automatic
Overdrive tranny. I have no idea what the axle specs are though.
Anyone got any tips on where I can find this out?

You might be a redneck if... You have a personal account of a UFO
sighting. - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mfi.net/~troyw
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 20:43:21 -0400
From: "Troy Williams"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - hard starting

On 28 May 99, at 17:13, John Krick wrote:

>Thanks for all the help, especialy pcmtbaker. 85 F-150 w 351. Found a
>mechanic to diagnose at least the first problem. The vaccum advance on the
>distributor leaks bad. It's on order now. Will still look into emission
>stuff if problem still persists. Could someone fill me in a little on this
>code thing that uses the trucks computer to tell you what's wrong. What do I
>need to do this?

I think Ford started using the computers in the trucks in 1986. I
don't think my '84 has a single computerized part. They might
have started adding some components in '85, but they didn't go to
the fuel injection and stuff where it would need the computers until
sometime in '86.

You might be a redneck if... The dog can't watch you eat
without gagging. - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mfi.net/~troyw
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 17:53:58 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - OD boggs engine

Take a look on the door post at the Spec plate. It'll list the Axle/Trans Codes.
You can either de-cipher them with a Haynes or Chilton's if you have one.
I do if you don't so let me know the code and I'll look it up.

Bob


Troy Williams wrote:

> On 27 May 99, at 15:47, Mobilepdr aol.com wrote:
>
> > i beliece i hace the e4od i'm not sure though i haven't investigated
> >yet....its the 5.0 v8 all wheel drive model with 3;73 axles...
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ford-
> trucks.com/faq.html
>
> I have an '84 F-150 with a 302 V8. I do know that it's an Automatic
> Overdrive tranny. I have no idea what the axle specs are though.
> Anyone got any tips on where I can find this out?
>
> You might be a redneck if... You have a personal account of a UFO
> sighting. - Jeff Foxworthy
>
> Troy Williams
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mfi.net/~troyw
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 21:04:33 -0400
From: S Spaulding
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Mount Washington

This isn't really truck related, but I took my car ('96 Crown Vic Perf.
Pack) up Mount Washington (NH) today. It was a great trip, with
beautiful scenery, and I highly recommend it for anyone traveling up in
this area. The road runs from 1,563 feet to 6,288 feet over eight
miles. It was low gear all the way up and back. No guard rails, sheer
dropoffs, and barely wide enough for two cars to pass.

Steve S.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 21:22:12 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Knocking and pinging and missing

Well I think I have it figured out. #8 spark plug had cracks in the
porcelan next to the electrode. There are Bosch Platinum plugs with tiny
little electrodes that are flush with the porcelane. I switched back to my
Autolites that were in there and it seems ok. Another thing is the EGR was
completely plugged up and stuck shut. I cleaned it up and it appears to be
working ok. I doubt if that had anything to do with the trouble, as it was
probably like that for years.

Anyway-- no knocking anymore. I disconnected the battery ground to clear
the memory on the computer- not sure if that will help or not.

Well I am off to West Virginia now so I hope all is well. Thanks for the help.

BTW, what is the timing supposed to be on the 302 with the jumper by the
distributor removed?


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 22:05:56 -0400
From: "Todd Schiller"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Knocking and pinging and missing

Should be 10 degrees BTC
- -----Original Message-----
From: Blake Malkamaki
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, May 28, 1999 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Knocking and pinging and missing


>Well I think I have it figured out. #8 spark plug had cracks in the
>porcelan next to the electrode. There are Bosch Platinum plugs with tiny
>little electrodes that are flush with the porcelane. I switched back to my
>Autolites that were in there and it seems ok. Another thing is the EGR was
>completely plugged up and stuck shut. I cleaned it up and it appears to be
>working ok. I doubt if that had anything to do with the trouble, as it was
>probably like that for years.
>
>Anyway-- no knocking anymore. I disconnected the battery ground to clear
>the memory on the computer- not sure if that will help or not.
>
>Well I am off to West Virginia now so I hope all is well. Thanks for the
help.
>
>BTW, what is the timing supposed to be on the 302 with the jumper by the
>distributor removed?
>
>
>Blake
>Little Mountain
>Concord, Ohio
>Early Oil Well Historian
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
>Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
>Desktop Publishing service
>"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 20:46:56 -0600
From: "nicj"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Parking brake trouble

I have a 1994 F-150 4x4 I-6 with an 8' bed. I snapped the cable on my
parking brake the other day and am having trouble with it's replacement. My
parking brake unit looks nothing like it is depicted in my Haynes manual. It
simply has one cable (cable #1) running from my parking brake down thru my
floor board and on to my I-beam. I have a second cable (cable #2) that is
connected to cable #1 with a simple attachment and runs the length of my
drivers side I-beam. It is connected with a simple bar to two other cables
#4 & #5 which go to my left and right rear tires. I pulled out the defective
cable #1 and replaced it with an identical Ford factory cable. However, now
I cannot get it to stretch to the connection to cable #2. I know this needs
to be a tight fit but I have about 3/4 to 1 inch of difference to their
connection. I put the replacement cable in exactly as was the original. It
needs to be tight for the brakes to work well so I know that that 1" is
probably normal but I don't know how to get it to the connection. Steel
cable aint exactly stretchable...hahahaha! Is this normal? Should I really
have to struggle to get the cable to it's connection. Is it that I have to
pull on cables #2, 3 and 4 and pull on my brakes a little to get it
attached? Is there some sort of trick. I don't want to drive around with my
brakes slightly engaged either. Is there some special way of wrapping that
cable around the brake pedal? My Hayes manual depicts this series of cables
as having adjustments and springs between cable #2 and 3and4. Mine has no
adjustments. Is this normal? I have begun not to trust my Haynes manual as
the only other thing I have referred to it for was the location of my
intertia switch...and my Haynes manual was wrong about it's location also.
SO..I don't trust my manual. Am I missing adjustment pieces? Is there a
trick to getting the two wires #1 and #2 together? Sorry for such a long
question. I don't want to give in and take it to a mechanic but I am out of
options. Any advice would be appreciated. You can e-mail me off list if you
want...I am only on digest...at nicj gateway.net
Thanks so much and again I am sorry for my question being so lengthy.

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 22:40:22 -0500
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - hard starting

My '85 302 is fuel injected and has a computer. I was worried about this
when I bought it new but at 195,000 miles I can't complain but if I did it
wouls be because all the aftermarket goodies don't apply until '86!

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Troy Williams [SMTP:troyw netzero.net]
> Sent:Friday, May 28, 1999 7:43 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - hard starting
>
> On 28 May 99, at 17:13, John Krick wrote:
>
> >Thanks for all the help, especialy pcmtbaker. 85 F-150 w 351. Found a
> >mechanic to diagnose at least the first problem. The vaccum advance on
> the
> >distributor leaks bad. It's on order now. Will still look into emission
> >stuff if problem still persists. Could someone fill me in a little on
> this
> >code thing that uses the trucks computer to tell you what's wrong. What
> do I
> >need to do this?
>
> I think Ford started using the computers in the trucks in 1986. I
> don't think my '84 has a single computerized part. They might
> have started adding some components in '85, but they didn't go to
> the fuel injection and stuff where it would need the computers until
> sometime in '86.
>
> You might be a redneck if... The dog can't watch you eat
> without gagging. - Jeff Foxworthy
>
>
> Troy Williams
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mfi.net/~troyw
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 22:55:11 -0500
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - bogging AOD

I have an '85 AOD. Like was said earlier this week it will shift into OD at
30 mph unless I keep the pedal down or have it shifted into reg. drive. If
I know I'm not going over 55 mph for an extended period I keep it in reg.
drive and usually I will still manually shift into OD when I want it. Same
thing when down shifting. I go to reg. drive as it is slowing down to
around 55-60 mph. It is a pain to be in OD at 40 mph and have to stomp the
pedal to get it to downshift. Been doing it this way since I've had it and
the tranny only complained once at about 80.000 miles and that was just worn
....


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