80-96-list-digest Sunday, May 23 1999 Volume 03 : Number 144



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Creaky F250
FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96: Damaged PCM repair/ B&M shift-plus
FTE 80-96 - '89 351 idle surge problem
FTE 80-96 - Ford truck factory
Re: FTE 80-96 - '89 351 idle surge problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - F250 CAD drawings
Re: FTE 80-96 - '89 351 idle surge problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: engine replacement?
RE: FTE 80-96 - Creaky F250
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Parking brake repair
Re: FTE 80-96 - F250 CAD drawings
Re: FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96: Damaged PCM repair/ B&M shift-plus
Re: FTE 80-96 - Creaky F250
FTE 80-96 - Radio reception
FTE 80-96 - RE: Last of Brakes...for Todd McMahon
FTE 80-96 - RE: Last of Brakes....for Jim Cannon
Re: FTE 80-96 - '89 351 idle surge problem
FTE 80-96 - clicking

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Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 05:36:55 PDT
From: "Jim Kudulis"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Creaky F250

Good morning,
Have a 94 F250 HD 4x4. Bumps make it creak or squeak like an old hay wagon.
Sounds like either the drivers front but more like just under the cab.
Anyone fixed something similar, or ideas?
Thanks for your help,
Jim Kudulis




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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 06:23:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: rokkinhorse webtv.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96: Damaged PCM repair/ B&M shift-plus

As many of you know,the B&M shift-plus is a device sold/used to firm the
shifts on the (93-96 Fseries and Bronco)E4OD trans.What you may or may
not know is that this device has been responsible for at least 6 (that I
know of) PCM failures that have required the owners of these afected
vehicles to replace thier main PCM boards,mostly by the dealer, and
costing between $4-600 to do.The codenthat denotes this failure is a
code 625,as pulled from the trucks PCM.If this is a problem you are
experiencing now,I have some good news for you.I fixed mine,and it
costed me under $10.00 to do.The resistor that fails is easy to spot on
the PCM board,due to the excessive heat it endures before failing.The
board beneath the resistor is discolored. Remove the affected
resistor.It's electrical value is 1WATT,1 OHM 10%. This replacement
component is readily available at your local radio repair/supply
house.The shop where I found mine (United Radio Supply,Portland,Oregon)
actually gave me the replecment resistor at no charge.Here's what I did:
Remove the coating fron the back of the board in the affected area,Clip
the burnt resistor out,carefully remove the remnants of the old resistor
from the board,install the new one,and solder the new one in with a
"pencil-type" soldering iron.I used 2% silver solder that was flux
filled and VERY small (.020) diameter.It is a very delicate process;if
you don't have any soldering experience,find an electronics repair shop
to do it for you.Recoat the soldered area with clear plastic
(non-conductive),clear fingernail polish,etc. and clip the excess lead
off the resistor.I cleaned the pin connectors in the recpticle with
electric motor degreaser and used fresh dielectric grease in the
plug.This repair worked!! If you have any questions,e-mail me directly
at the above address.Hope this saves somebody else some hard-earned
cash.

Randy Goolsby-94 Bronco EB/85 F250 4x4

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 09:17:20 -0700
From: "Mike Mueller"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '89 351 idle surge problem

Hey all!
Perhaps someone out there may have an idea on my problem.
Truck is an 89 F-150 XLT 351, A/T (not 4aod), 4x4, Supercab, Longbed, dual
tank, with black pealing paint.
All of a sudden (as in one day), at idle I'm getting a big up and down
surge. The motor will go down and almost die then bounce back up and
recover. The cycle continues at a rate of about 3-4 seconds each with no
break. As soon as you bring it up off of idle the problem goes away and the
truck runs fine.

Things I don't know...
last time fuel filter was replaced,
last tune up,
who's going to win the Stanley Cup

Things I do know...
air filter is clean and new,
both tanks have new clean gas in them,
I put in 2 bottles of Techron with the new gas,
I'd like to see Hasek meet Roy in the finals and have it go down to game
7 in double OT!

I'm thinking it's a FI problem or something related to it. I don't think
it's bad gas as it came on in the middle of a full tank whereas if it was
bad gas it would have hit as soon as I filled it up. The Techron has worked
to clean up injectors in the past on other vehicles but I really think
because this is only at idle that it's not the injectors but something
related. Any ideas? Anyone have the same problem? I left the following
quote from today's digest as just a thought, do I have an IAC Valve and
could it be something like this?
Anyone think a Belfour vs. Cujo matchup would be fun?
Let me know!

Thanks!
Mike Mueller
The Leasing Dept.
"Clean Hockey is the best Hockey"

> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:55:24 -0500
> From: Danny Metz
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - IAC Valve Adjustments??
>
> Hello,
>
> My 90 F-150 with a 5.0 is stalling at idle when the AC is on, and I turn
> the wheels sharply. This happened about 40k miles ago, and the shop
> cleaned the idle air control valve and replaced it. That solved the
> problem. As long as the motor that drives the valve is good, I assume all
> it needs is another cleaning, or replacement.
> Now, my question! If I just clean or replace the IAC valve, is there any
> adjustment, or special orientation I need to do before I reinstall it on
> the engine? Thanks!
>
> Danny

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 12:24:40 -0500
From: 90BMW325i webzone.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Ford truck factory

Where are the Ford truck factories located in the US? Which one has the
biggest volume?

Thanks, Justin
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 16:32:17 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '89 351 idle surge problem

Mike Mueller wrote:
>
> Hey all!
> Perhaps someone out there may have an idea on my problem.
> Truck is an 89 F-150 XLT 351, A/T (not 4aod), 4x4, Supercab, Longbed, dual
> tank, with black pealing paint.
> All of a sudden (as in one day), at idle I'm getting a big up and down
> surge. The motor will go down and almost die then bounce back up and
> recover. The cycle continues at a rate of about 3-4 seconds each with no
> break. As soon as you bring it up off of idle the problem goes away and the
> truck runs fine.
>
> Things I don't know...
> last time fuel filter was replaced,
>
Probably not it, this would tend to affect high speed running more.

> last tune up,
>
Maybe.

> who's going to win the Stanley Cup
>
Not the Habs!

> Things I do know...
> air filter is clean and new,
> both tanks have new clean gas in them,
> I put in 2 bottles of Techron with the new gas,
>
Good, good, good.

> I'd like to see Hasek meet Roy in the finals and have it go down to game
> 7 in double OT!
>
With the score ties 0-0!

> I'm thinking it's a FI problem or something related to it.
[......]
> do I have an IAC Valve and could it be something like this?
>
On Chryslers there's a thingus called the AIS (Automatic Idle Speed)
controller, 'm guessing the Ford acronymn is a bit different, but it
could be it.

Other things to check: O2 sensor, RPM sensor (likely in the distributer)
and, strangely enough, Vehicle speed sensor. Bit I would tend to think
it's the AIC. On my car, part of the insulation on the wiring had worn
off, so check that, too.

> Anyone think a Belfour vs. Cujo matchup would be fun?
>
Zzzzzzz.

> "Clean Hockey is the best Hockey"
>
Don't let Don Cherry hear you say that! ;-)

- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 15:58:51 -0400
From: "Amos Pressley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F250 CAD drawings

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Blake Malkamaki
To:
Sent: Friday, May 21, 1999 12:20 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F250 CAD drawings


> You need plans for a water well drill rig (spudder)? How deep do they want
> to go? They will probably need a bigger truck than that F250. Probably
> cheapest way is to go to an auction and buy an old rig mounted on on old
> army 6x6 or something similar. Those things are heavy!

That is the reason I have been asked to draw a representation of this rig. I
am not sure about the details yet, but am assured that the technician that
is going to put this together for this missionary has experience with this
special type of machinery and knows what he is doing, having converted a few
prior to this. At this point, the missionary wants to be able to accurately
show how this rig will look, so that the churches that will be supporting
the work will know what they are supporting.

The problem is the terrain. We in the US would assume that a large rig is
needed. I am told that a large truck does not navigate well in the
mountainous spots where they need the water, so they compensate by using a
smaller rig that can drill small, deep wells. I will know more after I send
the technician the first draft and get it back with redlines.

Amos Pressley

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 16:14:00 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '89 351 idle surge problem

>Hey all!
>Perhaps someone out there may have an idea on my problem.
>Truck is an 89 F-150 XLT 351, A/T (not 4aod), 4x4, Supercab, Longbed, dual
>tank, with black pealing paint.
>All of a sudden (as in one day), at idle I'm getting a big up and down
>surge. The motor will go down and almost die then bounce back up and
>recover. The cycle continues at a rate of about 3-4 seconds each with no
>break. As soon as you bring it up off of idle the problem goes away and the
>truck runs fine.
>
>Things I don't know...
> last time fuel filter was replaced,
> last tune up,
> who's going to win the Stanley Cup
>
>Things I do know...
> air filter is clean and new,
> both tanks have new clean gas in them,
> I put in 2 bottles of Techron with the new gas,
> I'd like to see Hasek meet Roy in the finals and have it go down to game
>7 in double OT!
>
>I'm thinking it's a FI problem or something related to it. I don't think
>it's bad gas as it came on in the middle of a full tank whereas if it was
>bad gas it would have hit as soon as I filled it up. The Techron has worked
>to clean up injectors in the past on other vehicles but I really think
>because this is only at idle that it's not the injectors but something
>related. Any ideas? Anyone have the same problem? I left the following
>quote from today's digest as just a thought, do I have an IAC Valve and
>could it be something like this?
>Anyone think a Belfour vs. Cujo matchup would be fun?
>Let me know!
>

Mine did the same thing a couple of weeks ago and it would quit at some
stops. It stopped it on its own and has not does it since.

Now it misses a couple times now and then, but runs great otherwise. I
don't know what it is.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 16:31:33 EDT
From: LHopk99567 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: engine replacement?

Where I got the 13mpg was in Alaska. The roads and traffic conditions and
weather combine to cause bad fuel milage. I once had a Mitsubish 4X4 pickup
with the Diesel that only got 25mpg in Ak. Down in Washington state it went
up to 37mpg.
In Washington State I had several Ford v-8s and none got more than 10 or 11
mpg. With the exception of my 49 flathead. It got 18mpg.
Dick
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Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 13:40:36 -0700
From: "McMahon, Todd R."
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Creaky F250

Could be the rivets that hold the frame components together... there was a
service technical buliten some time ago about this subject. I'll have to
did up the specific instructions, but it was basicaly to (one at a time)
drill out the rivets, enlarge the hole, use grade 8 bolts of larger size
with hardened steel washers and nuts, and then to spot-weld the nuts in
place after torqueing them a specific ammount. It also warned that welding
over the rivets was NOT the correct way to repair, and that they would
eventually fail.

There is also a problem with the font seat mounting points in the floor of
the cab being to weak, and causing noise as they fail.

Good luck...

Todd

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Kudulis [mailto:jimm excite.com]
Sent: Saturday, May 22, 1999 5:37 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Creaky F250


Good morning,
Have a 94 F250 HD 4x4. Bumps make it creak or squeak like an old hay wagon.
Sounds like either the drivers front but more like just under the cab.
Anyone fixed something similar, or ideas?
Thanks for your help,
Jim Kudulis




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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 17:02:58 EDT
From: LHopk99567 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Parking brake repair

Naw!! I've changed several, you get em from NAPA
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 17:54:39 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F250 CAD drawings

>> You need plans for a water well drill rig (spudder)? How deep do they want
>> to go? They will probably need a bigger truck than that F250. Probably
>> cheapest way is to go to an auction and buy an old rig mounted on on old
>> army 6x6 or something similar. Those things are heavy!
>
>That is the reason I have been asked to draw a representation of this rig. I
>am not sure about the details yet, but am assured that the technician that
>is going to put this together for this missionary has experience with this
>special type of machinery and knows what he is doing, having converted a few
>prior to this. At this point, the missionary wants to be able to accurately
>show how this rig will look, so that the churches that will be supporting
>the work will know what they are supporting.
>
>The problem is the terrain. We in the US would assume that a large rig is
>needed. I am told that a large truck does not navigate well in the
>mountainous spots where they need the water, so they compensate by using a
>smaller rig that can drill small, deep wells. I will know more after I send
>the technician the first draft and get it back with redlines.
>
>Amos Pressley
>

It all depends how deep they need to go. Perhaps something they could haul
on a large flatbed and then drag with a dozer back into the hills would be
better. I still think an old army truck would be good, or a 4x4 F-600 sized
Ford. Any pickup would be really too small for much. Big trucks are usually
cheaper anyway.

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 18:11:08 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96: Damaged PCM repair/ B&M shift-plus

If your 1 ohm 1 Watt resistor is failing due to heat, you could replace it
with a higher wattage resistor. This just means that the resistor can
dissipate more heat better. The resistance (1 ohm in this case) will be the
same.

At 06:23 22/05/99 -0700, you wrote:
>As many of you know,the B&M shift-plus is a device sold/used to firm the
>shifts on the (93-96 Fseries and Bronco)E4OD trans.What you may or may
>not know is that this device has been responsible for at least 6 (that I
>know of) PCM failures that have required the owners of these afected
>vehicles to replace thier main PCM boards,mostly by the dealer, and
>costing between $4-600 to do.The codenthat denotes this failure is a
>code 625,as pulled from the trucks PCM.If this is a problem you are
>experiencing now,I have some good news for you.I fixed mine,and it
>costed me under $10.00 to do.The resistor that fails is easy to spot on
>the PCM board,due to the excessive heat it endures before failing.The
>board beneath the resistor is discolored. Remove the affected
>resistor.It's electrical value is 1WATT,1 OHM 10%. This replacement
>component is readily available at your local radio repair/supply
>house.The shop where I found mine (United Radio Supply,Portland,Oregon)
>actually gave me the replecment resistor at no charge.Here's what I did:
>Remove the coating fron the back of the board in the affected area,Clip
>the burnt resistor out,carefully remove the remnants of the old resistor
>from the board,install the new one,and solder the new one in with a
>"pencil-type" soldering iron.I used 2% silver solder that was flux
>filled and VERY small (.020) diameter.It is a very delicate process;if
>you don't have any soldering experience,find an electronics repair shop
>to do it for you.Recoat the soldered area with clear plastic
>(non-conductive),clear fingernail polish,etc. and clip the excess lead
>off the resistor.I cleaned the pin connectors in the recpticle with
>electric motor degreaser and used fresh dielectric grease in the
>plug.This repair worked!! If you have any questions,e-mail me directly
>at the above address.Hope this saves somebody else some hard-earned
>cash.
>
>Randy Goolsby-94 Bronco EB/85 F250 4x4

>
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>
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 21:09:17 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Creaky F250

its the radius arm bushings also known as the Strut bar bushings
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 19:19:44 -0700
From: "Bud Dean"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Radio reception

I know this has been asked before. I searched the archives with no
success....

Anyway, I have a '92 f250 5.8L with a standard amfm cassette. radio
reception has always been poor at best. I recall someone mentioned a signal
booster from Wal-Mart?

Could someone please enlighten me as to the steps to take, grounding etc. to
check the radio, and what kind of signal booster and where to attach same..

Thanks in advance,

Bud Dean

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 21:10:28 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Last of Brakes...for Todd McMahon

My truck didn't stop great. It would usually lock up the right front first,
followed by the left, and I didn't believe the rears were doing diddly!

I did rear shoes, and made sure they were able to self-adjust!
I filed and sanded and high temp anti-seized the sliding areas
of my calipers (had an assistant do the pedal and both calipers
retract slightly after extension...leading me to think they are ok)

I did front shocks so far, and rotated my 5-6 k miles old BFG
tires front to back.

Before all this brake stuff, I had a pull to the right under braking
from unnoticeable, up to pretty darn severe.

No more! Although I'm getting a grinding sound, and grabbiness
from the right front, meaning I'm gonna chunk the Autozone
Carbon Mettalic pads for some Bendix or others! (They aren't worn
out, just troublesome!!!)

Hope this clears it up for ya!!!

Dave H.
Houston
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Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 21:25:58 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Last of Brakes....for Jim Cannon

You got a point Jim...I-69...sounds fun eh?

The best oscillation is the bridge over???
Southbound south of Cleveland!!!!

I'm slow to motivate, but yesterday morning,
I ran over a trash bag.
It was full of rags.

My driveshaft sucked it up, it busted my exhaust, and
DESTROYED my pinion seal.

I COULD NOT believe it!!! Fortunately a buddy of mine
was able to fix it (Correctly!) in several hours. WHEW!

Yes I REALLY need to change those bushings....
and will ... eventually!!!!

Apparently, some blame to tires, but lubing up those
sliders seem to be quite helpfull too!

Would like to meet with you sometime...ever cruise your
'29 Ford, or your '63 Riv? Just got in from cruising with
my Dad in his '81 El Camino, and Albertsons Food Store
on Spencer Highway Center Street (Deer Park) is
JUMPIN' on Saturday night!!!
Albertsons on Beltway 8 Sabo Road (just west of 45)
is warming up on Fridays!

You know any good spots?

Dave H.
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 22:41:25 -0600
From: "CalvinB"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '89 351 idle surge problem

>>Hey all!
>>Perhaps someone out there may have an idea on my problem.
>>Truck is an 89 F-150 XLT 351, A/T (not 4aod), 4x4, Supercab, Longbed, dual
>>tank, with black pealing paint.
>>All of a sudden (as in one day), at idle I'm getting a big up and down
>>surge. The motor will go down and almost die then bounce back up and
>>recover. The cycle continues at a rate of about 3-4 seconds each with no
>>break. As soon as you bring it up off of idle the problem goes away and
the
>>truck runs fine.
>>

Take off your air intake bypass valve.( it is sitting on the throttle body).
It look like a little cylinder about an inch and a half wide. It is
connected to a mount which screws into the throttle body. At the other end
of the cylinder there is an electronic plug in. This cylinder helps the
computer adjust the airflow . Sometimes it sticks. This is due to getting
dirty. Unplug the electrical connection and unscrew the mount the cylinder
is attached to from the throttle body. Get some carb cleaner and spray it
into the mount (do not spray it into the throttle body). Usually, this will
clean enough of the gunk out to allow the air intake bypass value to work.

This is what fixed mine problem.

Sorry about the description. Look in the Chiltons or Hayes books for some
better info on the air intake bypass valve.

Good Luck.

Cal

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