80-96-list-digest Friday, May 14 1999 Volume 03 : Number 135



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Warping Rotors! and 3" Lift
RE: FTE 80-96 - C6 2nd Gear Starts
FTE 80-96 - Re: Warped Rotors
FTE 80-96 - 460 CI Engine - are exhaust manifolds off 1997 EFI 460
RE: FTE 80-96 - No Brakes
FTE 80-96 - 92 F150 Check engine light
RE: FTE 80-96 - "Shorty" headers - 5.0L F250?
FTE 80-96 - RABS Valve
Re: [RE: FTE 80-96 - No Brakes]
FTE 80-96 - My 1985 351w
Re: FTE 80-96 - RABS Valve
Re: FTE 80-96 - Warping Rotors! and 3" Lift
RE: FTE 80-96 - RABS Valve
Re: FTE 80-96 - RABS Valve
RE: FTE 80-96 - RABS Valve
Re: FTE 80-96 - RABS Valve
FTE 80-96 - alternator
Re: FTE 80-96 - No Brakes
FTE 80-96 - Rear End Blow Up ???
FTE 80-96 - Welding exhaust manifold.
Re: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: FTE at the Supernationals
Re: FTE 80-96 - torque converter lock up...??
FTE 80-96 - 460 CI Engine - are exhaust manifolds off 1997 EFI
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1992 F-150 Warped Rotors
Re: FTE 80-96 - My 1985 351w
Re: FTE 80-96 - alternator

=======================================================================

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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 08:46:30 -0400
From: "Golly, Scott M"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Warping Rotors! and 3" Lift

Gentlemen,

I found a solution to the warping rotors on my truck. I have a 90 Ford
F-150 4x4, the solution was to get a set of NAPA rotors and request and
American made set. They are made of a better steel and warranted against
warping. I had it happen about every 5k but haven't had it happen for at
least 20k now. It was a permanent fix.....Just to be safe though, I now
torque the lugs if possible and convenient. I have since switched to Alcoa
rims that are thinner and allow a little better cooling and that helped too
I am sure.

Second, A couple of days ago, someone asked about a cheap lift on an 89. I
have lifted several of these IFS front end fords now and two things I can
say are.....Buy a good lift and spend the dough. And get the extended
radius arms. You are looking at spending about $650 or so. That will be
with shocks though. I have a Rancho lift (4"), with Tough Country angled
radius arms. I have also gone with the Superlift, Super Runner steering. I
researched each individual component and bought what I thought to be the
best of each. I love everything about my truck right now. I got an
alignment with that setup and they actually got the truck right back to
factory spec!!! That is impressive.

I also have a set of Rancho Extended radius arms for sale if you need them!!
Scott M. Golly
Researcher/Fire Protection Engineer

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 09:16:25 -0400
From: Greg Carter
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - C6 2nd Gear Starts

I don't claim to be a tranny expert but after researching a problem with my
'84 Olds Cutlass (my winter car, also known as the "Crap Mobile") have found
that the solution to a lot of automatic tranny problems is to remove the
valve body, clean it, and put it back in.

My '84 Olds wouldn't shift out of 1st, I looked up the problem in a 'real'
manual (went to the library) and in the trouble shooting section found that
the solution to most problems was to "remove the valve body, disassemble it,
clean it and replace". Check a good tranny manual and see if this is a
possible solution for your tranny problem.

Caution - I wouldn't attempt this without a manual that shows where all the
value springs, retainers, check balls etc. go, even if you are careful and
lay out all the values/springs/retainers removed from the value body it is
nice to have a reference when putting it all back together. I just photo
copied the pages I needed from the one at the library. My Haynes manual
didn't cut it. The total cost of the job was 12 bucks I spent on the new
gaskets, plus the new fluid, oh and the 60 cents for the photo copies :).

Bye.

> ----------
> From: Vogt Family[SMTP:vogt oro.net]
> Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 1:52 AM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com; perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - C6 2nd Gear Starts
>
> Today after changing the fluid and filter on my transmission ('86 F-250
> Diesel, C6) blowing out the coolers with 35 psi air, replacing the
> cooler rubber lines, and incidentally also the oil and filter on the
> engine, I noticed it seemed to be starting off in second gear. This was
> after roughly an hour's drive and after coming off the freeway at about
> 70 mph to a stop light. It was about 85 degrees and the AC was on. I
> have noticed that 2nd gear starts seem to be a somewhat common problem
> with C6s. Nothing else unusual to report except that it has shifted
> quite hard since day 1. The fluid level was OK. Anybody got an idea?
>
> Birken
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>
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 09:34:29 -0500
From: "Bill P"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Warped Rotors

My experience paralleled Danny's.
My '81 was jumping when I braked. I went to Chief Auto, bought new rotors
(only $30 each), wheel bearings, and brake pads, installed them all.=
Bingo.
The problem went away. It's been about 2500 miles, now. Smoooooth
braking. I love it.
Bill P.





Today's Stock Market Report:
Shipping lines stayed at an even keel. The market for raisins dried up.

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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 09:59:02 -0500
From: Randy Robb
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 460 CI Engine - are exhaust manifolds off 1997 EFI 460

Walt,

While the bolt pattern of a 97 manifold may match your 87, the port
design is different (round vs. oval). It's my understanding that the
newer design helped but did not solve the problem. The best solution is
headers! There are two types, the stainless steel (Banks) or the 14
gauge mild steel (Doug Thorley, TTS, Gibson, etc.) designed for low
torque.
The large RV centers , Jardene Exhaust (307) 733-7473, and Eric's RV
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ericsrv.com would be a good sources of information.

> Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 08:16:56 -0400
> From: "Walt Scudder"
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - 460 CI Engine - are exhaust manifolds off 1997 EFI 460
> fit a 1987 carbureted 460 ?
>
> I have a 1987 motorhome (built on e350 chassis & powered by 460 carbureated
> engine. There was a chronic (Ford design flaw) problem w/ exhaust manifold
> bolts snapping (MY86 to 89). Problem is supposedly caused by Ford using
> wrong alloy for bolts that hold manifold to block + actual exhaust manifold
> alloy allowed it to expand too much and stress & fatigue bolts until they
> snap.
>
> Fix is to use proper bolts - and I'm told to totally aleviate problem (fix
> it so it doesn't happen again) to replace 87 manifolds with later model
> ones
> (after MY89). Later manifolds are made from different alloy that doesn't
> expand as much when hot and doesn't stress bolts.
>
> I have opportunity to get a set of exhaust manifolds off of a 1997 EFI 460
> engine. Does anyone know if these are interchangeable w/my 87's? One
> dealer told me that the bolt patterns are the same - but he was not too
> sure
> of the outlet angles and whether or not they will match up w/my 87's.
> Before I buy the 97 manifold's - I'd like to make sure they will mate up
> w/rest of my exhaust system.
>
> Any help or words of wisdom would be most appreciated
>
> Email me wscudder ieee.org
>

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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 08:31:22 -0700
From: Eric Sneed
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - No Brakes

Still in need of help!
I took the groups advice and bought a master cylinder last night, after
installing it and using a quart of fluid to bleed the brakes I still
have the same problem! when I bled the brakes we where able to get the
pedal stiff. As soon as I started the truck the pedal went back to the
floor again. one thing that I did notice is that my parking brake pedal
goes to the floor really easy, Also when I have the truck running and I
step on and the release the brake pedal the idle increases momentarily
then goes back to normal. What are the chances that either the vacuum
booster is bad or there is a small leak in one of the calipers or the
rear wheel cylinders(car does not pull to one side or the other).
Thanks again in advance.

Eric
1989 F150 4x4 L6 4sp

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Matthew Banevich [SMTP:batman mc.net]
> Sent:Thursday, May 13, 1999 9:42 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - No Brakes
>
> Blake Malkamaki wrote:
> >
> > >First guess is a bad master cylinder. If you step gently, does it
> go
> > >down, but if you stopmp the pedal it doesn't? That would be a sign.
> Also
> > >try this: Step on the pedal firmly until it stops, hold your foot
> there
> > >applying the same pressure. If the pedal goes down, it's the master
> > >cylinder.
> > >
> > >You can rebuild an M/C, but for a couple of bucks more, you can gt
> one
> > >rebuilt alreadt at NAPA or Canadian Tire or some such place.
> > >
> >
> > I have been through 4 rebuilt master cylinders for our F-250 diesel
> and the
> > pedal still drifts when held down. There are no leaks anywhere and
> > everything is is good. I have one more master cylinder here to try.
> The
> > parts store keeps exchanging them.
> >
> > Blake
> > Little Mountain
> > Concord, Ohio
> > Early Oil Well Historian
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
> > See my new site dedicated to preserving the Big Muskie,
> > the largest moving land machine on earth!
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/bigmuskie
> > Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
> > Desktop Publishing service
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> AIR IN THE BRAKE LINES...... My old work truck did it once after a
> brake
> job that included a new brake cylinder..... if the master cylinder is
> mounted at an angle, you have to bleed that before any type on
> installation... I had that problem with a '76 pontiac.
> Just a thought!
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 12:27:34 -0500
From: David Cole
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 92 F150 Check engine light

Hi all,

I have a 92 F-150 XLT w 302/AOD. I bought it new and it has 160K miles.

Recently the check engine light has been coming on . It seems to be random
and always after the engine has warmed up. It will come on and stay on
anywhere from 10 seconds-2 minutes and then go back off again. It might
stay off for 30 seconds or 30 minutes, but then comes back on again. I
have noticed that it doesn't happen nearly as much at interstate speeds
(75mph+) where the rpms are are higher. But it does still happen.

I have used my code scanner, and no codes are being stored at all, so I'm
stumped as to what it might be.

It had a complete tune-up about 8K miles ago. New plugs, wires, cap,
rotor, coil, fuel filter, TPS sensor. About 20K miles ago it had a new O2
sensor, distributor pickup, and fuel pressure regulator and the EGR valve
was cleaned. ( was looking for a mis fire, turned out to be fuel press
reg.) Driveability is very good, starts easy, no mis, good power. There
is no indication of any problem other than the check engine light.

Any ideas would be helpful.

Thanks,

David Cole

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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 13:51:43 -0400
From: Greg Carter
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - "Shorty" headers - 5.0L F250?

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.macprod.com/

> ----------
> From: Blake Malkamaki[SMTP:blake little-mountain.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 2:32 AM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - "Shorty" headers - 5.0L F250?
>
> >Yes. I installed MAC equal length shorties on my '95 F150 4X4 5.0.
> >Everything lined up without a problem, and everything has been fine for
> >about a year. I did have to dimple the drivers side collector about a
> half
> >an inch to clear the engine mount.
>
> I never heard of MAC headers. Where do you get them? Do they have a web
> site? What was the price?
>
>
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 11:46:45 -0700
From: Eric Sneed
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RABS Valve

Hello,
Somebody sent me an e-mail earlier about a RABS valve, I accidentally
deleted this post. I would really appreciate it if that person could
send me the e-mail again.

Eric

P.S. if it is this valve and I cannot find one cheaper then the $340.00
price that the dealer quoted I will be selling this truck! I need
reliable transportation not a on going project vehicle! if interested it
is a 1989 F150 Xlt Lariat 4x4 l6 4sp 117k matching camper shell premium
Sony stereo. it is located in the bay area.




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------------------------------

Date: 13 May 99 11:49:48 PDT
From: William Berninghausen
Subject: Re: [RE: FTE 80-96 - No Brakes]

Eric Sneed wrote:
> Still in need of help!
> I took the groups advice and bought a master cylinder last night, after=

> installing it and using a quart of fluid to bleed the brakes I still
> have the same problem! when I bled the brakes we where able to get the
> pedal stiff. As soon as I started the truck the pedal went back to the
> floor again. one thing that I did notice is that my parking brake pedal=

> goes to the floor really easy, Also when I have the truck running and I=

> step on and the release the brake pedal the idle increases momentarily
> then goes back to normal. What are the chances that either the vacuum
> booster is bad or there is a small leak in one of the calipers or the
> rear wheel cylinders(car does not pull to one side or the other).
> Thanks again in advance.
> =

> Eric
> 1989 F150 4x4 L6 4sp =

> =

- -------------------
If all the air is out of the brake lines, AND there aren't any fluid leak=
s,
AND the performance of the brake system changes when the engine is runnin=
g,
you've got a problem with the booster, either an external vacuum leak or =
an
internal leak in the booster unit itself. The parking brake won't go to =
the
floor easily if the cable and rear shoes are properly adjusted, but that'=
s a
separate problem. Start checking for a vacuum leak.

Bill in Portland

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webm=
ail.netscape.com.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 16:36:37 -0400
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - My 1985 351w

I finally put some pics of my 351w engine on the site. There are 6 in all.
Here are the links if ya want to take a look.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www3.your-net.com/~pmbaker/images/351engine03.jpg 351w

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www3.your-net.com/~pmbaker/ web page

mike
85 Styleside 4x4

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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 14:12:32 -0700
From: johny
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RABS Valve

Is that the part price or an installed price?

For an 89 bronco II, that was closer to an installed price.
Part price was still a steep $200 - $250 or so.

Some parts houses can get it at maybe a 10% discount over the
dealer for the same part. But it's still gonna cost you, short of parting
one out of a wrecked truck.

On a short wheel base bronco II, the failed RABS valve would
cause the rear brakes to lock up way to easy, and was a little
scary. The longer wheel base F150, may not be as troublesome,
unless it's causing some other braking problems.

If you don't need it right away, and you live in the SF bay area, there
a series of salvaged parts place in Rancho Cordova that has a
800 number that has all kinds of parts. (check the phone book)
Tell them the part, and they have
their inventory computerized and cataloged.

The ford dealer can help you cross reference the part number across model
years too, to help you search across a broader year of vehicles too.


> P.S. if it is this valve and I cannot find one cheaper then the $340.00
> price that the dealer quoted I will be selling this truck! I need
> reliable transportation not a on going project vehicle! if interested it
> is a 1989 F150 Xlt Lariat 4x4 l6 4sp 117k matching camper shell premium
> Sony stereo. it is located in the bay area.
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 14:20:08 -0700
From: johny
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Warping Rotors! and 3" Lift

Can you comment why you like the extended radius arms?

I'm convinced this is the way to go on a 89 Bronco II, but am curious of
your impressions. Particularly in the areas of on-road/off road ride, and
articulation.

Some comments on the Superrunning Steering too?

I've read Superlifts literature, but haven't yet found anyone that actually
has the longer radius arms and steering kit.
Looking at using 33 x 12.50 x 15 so bump steer would be of some
concern on the bronco II. Looking at 4.5 - 5.5 " lift if I go
superlift. Or 3" using James Duff. In either case, longer radius arms
are in the picture.

Golly, Scott M wrote:

> Second, A couple of days ago, someone asked about a cheap lift on an 89. I
> have lifted several of these IFS front end fords now and two things I can
> say are.....Buy a good lift and spend the dough. And get the extended
> radius arms. You are looking at spending about $650 or so. That will be
> with shocks though. I have a Rancho lift (4"), with Tough Country angled
> radius arms. I have also gone with the Superlift, Super Runner steering. I
> researched each individual component and bought what I thought to be the
> best of each. I love everything about my truck right now. I got an
> alignment with that setup and they actually got the truck right back to
> factory spec!!! That is impressive.
>
> I also have a set of Rancho Extended radius arms for sale if you need them!!
> Scott M. Golly
> Researcher/Fire Protection Engineer
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 14:35:41 -0700
From: Eric Sneed
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - RABS Valve

that is the part only price.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:johny [SMTP:johny netapp.com]
> Sent:Thursday, May 13, 1999 2:13 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - RABS Valve
>
> Is that the part price or an installed price?
>
> For an 89 bronco II, that was closer to an installed price.
> Part price was still a steep $200 - $250 or so.
>
> Some parts houses can get it at maybe a 10% discount over the
> dealer for the same part. But it's still gonna cost you, short of
> parting
> one out of a wrecked truck.
>
> On a short wheel base bronco II, the failed RABS valve would
> cause the rear brakes to lock up way to easy, and was a little
> scary. The longer wheel base F150, may not be as troublesome,
> unless it's causing some other braking problems.
>
> If you don't need it right away, and you live in the SF bay area,
> there
> a series of salvaged parts place in Rancho Cordova that has a
> 800 number that has all kinds of parts. (check the phone book)
> Tell them the part, and they have
> their inventory computerized and cataloged.
>
> The ford dealer can help you cross reference the part number across
> model
> years too, to help you search across a broader year of vehicles too.
>
>
> > P.S. if it is this valve and I cannot find one cheaper then the
> $340.00
> > price that the dealer quoted I will be selling this truck! I need
> > reliable transportation not a on going project vehicle! if
> interested it
> > is a 1989 F150 Xlt Lariat 4x4 l6 4sp 117k matching camper shell
> premium
> > Sony stereo. it is located in the bay area.
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 18:52:13 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RABS Valve

>On a short wheel base bronco II, the failed RABS valve would
>cause the rear brakes to lock up way to easy, and was a little
>scary. The longer wheel base F150, may not be as troublesome,
>unless it's causing some other braking problems.

What does this valve do? From my experience all these Ford trucks are much
better without the rear antilock brakes working. What is the best way to
disconnect it?

Blake


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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 16:30:28 -0700
From: Eric Sneed
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - RABS Valve

Thanks Johny and Bill,
I called a couple bone yards and I can get a RABS Valve for $45.00, what
a relief! still trying to narrow it down to one specific component,
based on Johny and Bill's info.

Johny Wrote:
On a short wheel base bronco II, the failed RABS valve would
>cause the rear brakes to lock up way to easy, and was a little
>scary. The longer wheel base F150, may not be as troublesome,
>unless it's causing some other braking problems.

I did experience this situation to a lesser degree.

Bill in Portland Wrote:
If all the air is out of the brake lines, AND there aren't any fluid
leaks,
AND the performance of the brake system changes when the engine is
running,
you've got a problem with the booster, either an external vacuum leak or
an
internal leak in the booster unit itself.

And this is happening as well.

Thanks again for all the help!

Eric

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Blake Malkamaki [SMTP:blake little-mountain.com]
> Sent:Thursday, May 13, 1999 4:52 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - RABS Valve
>
> >On a short wheel base bronco II, the failed RABS valve would
> >cause the rear brakes to lock up way to easy, and was a little
> >scary. The longer wheel base F150, may not be as troublesome,
> >unless it's causing some other braking problems.
>
> What does this valve do? From my experience all these Ford trucks are
> much
> better without the rear antilock brakes working. What is the best way
> to
> disconnect it?
>
> Blake
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 16:58:04 -0700
From: johny
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RABS Valve

Along the line of clearing the air out of the system, A power flush
may be in order. In some cases, the brake system can have contamination
other than air/water. The power flush may help clean it out.

Cost about $20.00 and they use a large tank of brake fluid, and mount
a plate on top of the brake fluid reservoir. Blow fluid through the system until

clean fluid comes out at each wheel. Better than a typical gravity
based cleansing.

Any place that swaps tires and does brake/wheel work ought to be
of help. You can even rent the unit, but I have a hard time believing it's
any cheaper.

Eric Sneed wrote:

> Thanks Johny and Bill,
> I called a couple bone yards and I can get a RABS Valve for $45.00, what
> a relief! still trying to narrow it down to one specific component,
> based on Johny and Bill's info.
>
> Johny Wrote:
> On a short wheel base bronco II, the failed RABS valve would
> >cause the rear brakes to lock up way to easy, and was a little
> >scary. The longer wheel base F150, may not be as troublesome,
> >unless it's causing some other braking problems.
>
> I did experience this situation to a lesser degree.
>
> Bill in Portland Wrote:
> If all the air is out of the brake lines, AND there aren't any fluid
> leaks,
> AND the performance of the brake system changes when the engine is
> running,
> you've got a problem with the booster, either an external vacuum leak or
> an
> internal leak in the booster unit itself.
>
> And this is happening as well.
>
> Thanks again for all the help!
>
> Eric
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Blake Malkamaki [SMTP:blake little-mountain.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 4:52 PM
> > To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RABS Valve
> >
> > >On a short wheel base bronco II, the failed RABS valve would
> > >cause the rear brakes to lock up way to easy, and was a little
> > >scary. The longer wheel base F150, may not be as troublesome,
> > >unless it's causing some other braking problems.
> >
> > What does this valve do? From my experience all these Ford trucks are
> > much
> > better without the rear antilock brakes working. What is the best way
> > to
> > disconnect it?
> >
> > Blake
> >
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 17:36:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Alex Wolfe
Subject: FTE 80-96 - alternator

Question for you guys:
On an 84 F-150 I6, what amperage is the stock alternator, also, at
what RPM (alternator, not engine) does that occur? Thanks.

Alex Wolfe
84 F-150 I6

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 20:49:32 -0400
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - No Brakes

If your rear brakes are way out of adjustment, the brake pedal will go
to the floor as you describe, and the parking brake will have a lot of
travel or not work at all. The self adjusters won't work until the
brakes are adjusted "close" manually.

Steve S.

Eric Sneed wrote:
>
> Still in need of help!
> I took the groups advice and bought a master cylinder last night, after
> installing it and using a quart of fluid to bleed the brakes I still
> have the same problem! when I bled the brakes we where able to get the
> pedal stiff. As soon as I started the truck the pedal went back to the
> floor again. one thing that I did notice is that my parking brake pedal
> goes to the floor really easy, Also when I have the truck running and I
> step on and the release the brake pedal the idle increases momentarily
> then goes back to normal. What are the chances that either the vacuum
> booster is bad or there is a small leak in one of the calipers or the
> rear wheel cylinders(car does not pull to one side or the other).
> Thanks again in advance.
>
> Eric
> 1989 F150 4x4 L6 4sp
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Matthew Banevich [SMTP:batman mc.net]
> > Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 9:42 PM
> > To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - No Brakes
> >
> > Blake Malkamaki wrote:
> > >
> > > >First guess is a bad master cylinder. If you step gently, does it
> > go
> > > >down, but if you stopmp the pedal it doesn't? That would be a sign.
> > Also
> > > >try this: Step on the pedal firmly until it stops, hold your foot
> > there
> > > >applying the same pressure. If the pedal goes down, it's the master
> > > >cylinder.
> > > >
> > > >You can rebuild an M/C, but for a couple of bucks more, you can gt
> > one
> > > >rebuilt alreadt at NAPA or Canadian Tire or some such place.
> > > >
> > >
> > > I have been through 4 rebuilt master cylinders for our F-250 diesel
> > and the
> > > pedal still drifts when held down. There are no leaks anywhere and
> > > everything is is good. I have one more master cylinder here to try.
> > The
> > > parts store keeps exchanging them.
> > >
> > > Blake
> > > Little Mountain
> > > Concord, Ohio
> > > Early Oil Well Historian
> > > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
> > > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
> > > See my new site dedicated to preserving the Big Muskie,
> > > the largest moving land machine on earth!
> > > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/bigmuskie
> > > Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
> > > Desktop Publishing service
> > >
> > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> > AIR IN THE BRAKE LINES...... My old work truck did it once after a
> > brake
> > job that included a new brake cylinder..... if the master cylinder is
> > mounted at an angle, you have to bleed that before any type on
> > installation... I had that problem with a '76 pontiac.
> > Just a thought!
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 22:00:13 -0400
From: "Max W. Cottrell"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rear End Blow Up ???

F150; 302; Mazda 5 sp; Ford 3.55 axle; 2WD.


I was driving my F-150 in the rain when I spun the tires leaving
a traffic light. The drive train bucked, ground and would not move the
truck forward or reverse.

When the trans is in gear, as the clutch is let out, there is a severe
grinding sound in ALL gears, 1-5 + reverse. The shifter goes easily
into each gear with the clutch depressed.

The clutch is brand new.

After some discussion with friends who build these trucks, at the
Ford assembly plant, they all suggest that
I try looking at the rear end for the problem.

After taking the cover off of the rear end, I discovered that there
is a part that is not documented in either Chilton's or Haynes manuals.

Next/attached to the pinion gear, there is a toothed gear. The teeth on this
gear are MASHED flat. The pinion has rather severe chipping. The toothed gear
is just to the left of the ring and is attached by the same bolts as the ring.

The ID tag says that this is a 3.55 Ford rear end.

What the hell does this gear do, and would it cause the described symptoms?

Max Cottrell

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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 21:57:53 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Welding exhaust manifold.

Hah! Drill a hole at each end eh?
Mine is completely separated.
It would have to be on some sort of jig
to be welded. I am just about to order
JBA Shorties. And Kill two birds with
just one stone! (Supposedly gain 10+
horse power and hopefully a bit "o" torque too!)

Dave H.
Houston (Already gettin' hotter than Hades!) Texas
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 20:11:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: shy anne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: FTE at the Supernationals

Hey, I need to be removed from the list. I got a new job and don't have
as much time to check my mail..today i had 81 messages. Thanks for all
your help though!
Shy

- --- Ken Payne wrote:
> Hi gang! Just wanted anyone who's attending the
> Supernationals
> to know that we're at the Days Inn, room 208 (you'll
> see an
> FTE window sticker on the hotel room window). Stop
> by for your
> free door prize ticket and a window sticker for your
> truck (if
> you brought it to the show).
>
> Ken Payne
> FTE Admin
>
> PS - Keith and Deacon, wish you were here!!
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

===
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 23:38:23 EDT
From: Mobilepdr aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - torque converter lock up...??

I have a 1996 explorer 5.0 v8 and all wheel drive the truck is great
runs good and is pretty quick..I've added a few things hyperchip a 3"cat back
system with a dynomax muffler and installed a k&n air filter without the
stock air box...My question is i know the truck is suppost to lock up to save
heat and wear and save gas but is there anyway to delay this lockup or
something..Everytime i give it gas at about a 35-45 mph range it
automatically goes up a few hundred rpm's where it should be and then clunk
and bogg, it locks up and all goes the power and even if i push the gas pedal
down another 1/2'' it still doesn't come out unless i push it down half way
or manually push the o/d button off....what gives this can't be normal i've
had other ford work vans that won't go into overdrive unless you take your
foot off the pedal. this one not only goes into od but locks up and bog's
pretty bad at around 40 mph on a back country road with plenty of bends and
hills the trucks boggs down to around 1300 rpm's this isn't good ....In fact
its so dam annoying i either have to drive around all the time with od off or
i have to release my foot from the gas and reaply each time to keep it from
locking up and bogging....I hate this could there be a bad sensor like tps or
lock up solenoid any info is really appreciated........ding
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 23:40:25 EDT
From: craig n eggerman
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 460 CI Engine - are exhaust manifolds off 1997 EFI

Yes it is a problem. The rear and sometimes front bolts will break. They
are a bitch to get out in the E350.

Replacing the broken bolts and or studs should be enough. Make sure they
are torqued to at least 30 ft lbs and check them every so often.

For the manifold fit, visit a large engine rebuilder if you have one in
town. Most likely he will have a short block for the 460 setting there
and you can see how 97 manifold mates up.

On the subject of bolts and studs on the stock 460 manifold. Use any of
the A 286 inconel allow steel bolts. These things are what is used in the
aircraft industry and in race car engines. They are 3/8" 16 thread
bolts. Some are longer than others. Make sure you get the right length.
Ford is very proud of their bolts. They are $8.00/bolt Part No.
391730-S101. I got replacement bolts and studs at a local shop that
specializes in bolts, nuts and all kinds of other fasteners. It needs to
be a low carbon high nickel content corrosion resistant bolt with a
minimum yield strength of 190,000. Try summit Racing or I found one place
called docsbolts.com if you don't have a large supplier in town.
Craig
Eggerman juno.com
Casper,Wyoming
O|||||O

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 21:08:16 -0700
From: "Mark Behling"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1992 F-150 Warped Rotors

I've had the same problem too since my truck was new. Dealer fixed it, till the
warranty ran out. Now after a $250 brake job, I decided to do some research on the
subject. Discovered that improper seasoning of the rotors can also contribute to
warping as well as causes already mentioned. I found a car website that has some
interesting information on the subject at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.c-edge.com/shotimes/brakes/part1.html I know the information is geared
toward cars, but some of it applies to trucks as well. I followed the seasoning and
bedding procedure and so far haven't any rotor warping while using Raybestos severe
duty pads.

Mark
'96 F150 I6 5spd

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 00:12:23 -0400
From: "Steve"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - My 1985 351w

Great pics, I'm using them to check my wiring and vacuum. Glad to see
someone else likes the interesting wire/vacuum stuff. I'll post pics of my
new 351W in a few weeks (swapped out 300 I6 in my '82 F150).

Steve

- ----- Original Message -----
From: PmctBaker
To: FORD F-150 LIST
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 4:36 PM....


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