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80-96-list-digest Friday, May 7 1999 Volume 03 : Number 128 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo  ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem FTE 80-96 - Dead Big Red - Update FTE 80-96 - re: '95 5.0 Ping Re: FTE 80-96 - hard starting Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem FTE 80-96 - wayne FTE 80-96 - Manual transmission questions FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problems Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Big Red - Update FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem Re: FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem RE: FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem FTE 80-96 - Info on Electrical shorts FTE 80-96 - Re: Low oil pressure on 86 F250 diesel FTE 80-96 - 95' F150 5.0 Ping Re: FTE 80-96 - hard starting FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead Big Red FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle FTE 80-96 - Re: Fusible Link RE: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle FTE 80-96 - mixed info Re: FTE 80-96 - Website Re: FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem RE: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle RE: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle FTE 80-96 - big block blues FTE 80-96 - DRI injectors Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Low oil pressure on 86 F250 diesel Re: FTE 80-96 - hard starting RE: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle Re: FTE 80-96 - big block blues ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 13:00:44 +0200 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnar?= Huse Subject: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem Re fusible link and battery polarity mixup... Ehh, yes, you messed up... The fusible link is nothing more than a piece of wire with a fuse soldered to it. You need to replace it with a similarly rated fuse (you may buy a fuse holder and standard fuse as replacement). - -- Bjornar Huse http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://bryggen.bgnett.no/~bjornar 1 Son, 3 yrs 1 Groenendael, 4 yrs 1 1990 Ford E-250 Club Wagon 7.3 diesel, 3.54, E4OD 1 1994 Ford Escort 1.3 1 1947 Studebaker M-15 A-28 dump truck Oh, yes, one 1971 wife, too! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 08:00:46 -0300 From: "Bowman, John A" Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dead Big Red - Update Good News! Big Red is alive and well thanks to all your help! Checked the solenoid based upon your suggestions and it was toast. Funny thing was that when I replaced it, there still was no go! I then checked the wire that comes from the ignition switch to the solenoid and when the key was turned there was no juice. Interesting eh! To make a long story short, I checked the continuity of the wire and found it was open some where between the connector at the bottom of the steering column and where it exits the cab through the fire wall. Not wanting to tear the dash and wiring harness apart, I just spliced in another wire to bypass the "bad" piece and everything works fine. My next question is why the wire went open? When the solenoid went south, did it draw enough current through the ignition to fry the wire? Is there a fuse inline or does that wire go through the fuse panel. I do not have an electrical diagram with me so I cannot answer those questions. Any thoughts? - -- ********************************* J.A.Bowman Big Red - 1983 F100 Halifax, Nova Scotia Canada email: mooster canada.com ********************************* == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 08:09:15 -0300 From: "Bowman, John A" Subject: FTE 80-96 - re: '95 5.0 Ping For what it is worth... My '83 F100 302 would ping on hills and I cured the problem by using a mid range octane (90 - 91) is stead of the cheap stuff ( 86 -87 octane). Worked for me! - -- ********************************* J.A.Bowman Big Red - 1983 F100 Halifax, Nova Scotia Canada email: mooster canada.com ********************************* == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 08:54:46 -0400 From: Andre Roy Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - hard starting Jim Cannon wrote: > > At 19:48 05/05/99 -0600, you wrote: > >I am new to posting. Have read with interest the dialogue around smog pump, > >and am curious to hear another explanation of the utility of this beast. My > >understanding is the injected air serves to dilute the emissions so that > >testing the exhaust gases at the tailpipe gives acceptable readings. > > The smog pump puts oxygen into the hot exhaust gas stream in the exhaust > manifold or into the cat converter. Either way, the oxygen comples > combustion of unburned hydrocarbons and CO to reduce emmissions. It really > chemically reduces emmissions, it does not just "dilute them" as many > people think. It is a simple way to reduce pollution without a big > performance hit. > Right. Emmissions for North America are measured in grams per mile. So mixing air into the exaust stream to dilute it wouldn't change the mass of emmissions released, it would lower the percentage, though. But lowered percentage wouldn't pass the emmissions certifications. The air is used to finish the oxidation process of the exhaust. Can't help you with the cold starting, though, sorry. - -- Andre == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 08:59:23 -0400 From: Andre Roy Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem Matthew Banevich wrote: > > It's probably just a fried fusible link. > > Steve S. > > OK.... I think that is what I kinda replaced..... but now a new > question, What does a fuseable link do? > it's basically a fuse. > > I just replaced that portion with 10 ga wire! > Oh-oh. > And I painted the negative wires black for future idiots, > That's good. > > Did I mess up by just replaing that thing with a regular piece of > wire... > Yup. Get the spec for the fusable link in Amperes. Then either replace the wire with a new fusable link or splice an inline fuse into the wire rated at what the link was rated at. If you don't, you risk Frying your Ford. > the shielding on the fuseable link portion of wirre was really soft and > the break was about 2" after the black thing that said fuseable link? > The "wire" is the fuse. That's where it burned out. - -- Andre == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 09:49:08 EDT From: Lwskywalk aol.com Subject: FTE 80-96 - wayne lookin great man luke == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 11:04:24 -0500 From: Blake Malkamaki Subject: FTE 80-96 - Manual transmission questions I am new to the list, so please forgive me if my question has already been discussed in detail. You can write directly to me if you wish. I have an 88 F-150 4x4 with 302 and mazda 5 speed overdrive. Well the transmission leaks pretty bad and needs attention, and since it is geared too darned high in first and reverse, I was wondering if a Ford ZF 5 speed will bolt in to replace it. I presume this is a common complaint because everyone I know who has one hates it because they can't back trailers unless they have 4 wheel drive and can throw it in low range. Thank you for your help. Blake Little Mountain Concord, Ohio Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake See my new site dedicated to preserving the Big Muskie, the largest moving land machine on earth! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/bigmuskie Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com Desktop Publishing service == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:09:59 -0700 (PDT) From: Alex Wolfe Subject: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problems It would really be best to replace that fusable like with another one, not wire. It does just as the name suggests... it's a fuse. So at this point if you were to hook up your batt reversed again you might indeed fry something important rather than the link (or have a short, or a rabid woodchuck chewing on wires, etc...). Alex '84 F-150 I6 (I6 currently in pieces, owner crying over the parts bill) _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:23:28 -0700 From: "Mike" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Big Red - Update Check to see if it starts in gear. If it does you bypassed the Neutral Safety switch.........Mike - -----Original Message----- From: Bowman, John A To: Ford Truck Digest Date: Thursday, May 06, 1999 4:05 AM Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dead Big Red - Update >Good News! Big Red is alive and well thanks to all your help! Checked >the solenoid based upon your suggestions and it was toast. Funny thing >was that when I replaced it, there still was no go! I then checked the >wire that comes from the ignition switch to the solenoid and when the >key was turned there was no juice. Interesting eh! To make a long story >short, I checked the continuity of the wire and found it was open some >where between the connector at the bottom of the steering column and >where it exits the cab through the fire wall. Not wanting to tear the >dash and wiring harness apart, I just spliced in another wire to bypass >the "bad" piece and everything works fine. > >My next question is why the wire went open? When the solenoid went >south, did it draw enough current through the ignition to fry the wire? >Is there a fuse inline or does that wire go through the fuse panel. I do >not have an electrical diagram with me so I cannot answer those >questions. Any thoughts? > >-- >********************************* >J.A.Bowman >Big Red - 1983 F100 >Halifax, Nova Scotia >Canada >email: mooster canada.com >********************************* > > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 10:35:20 -0500 From: Geoffrey Schrag Subject: FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem Hey Guys, Recently I checked the pads for the rear drums on my bronco, I was getting a sqealing noise after driving the truck around town for 30 min or so. Pads looked ok, maybe a little bit glazed. I had to retract the brakes a bit by spinning the little adjustment dial to get the drums off. Well, now that I've put them back on the drum brakes don't seem to be working and the pedal is a bit spongy when I depress it. Manual said they should adjust themselves, it it necessary to spin the dial back the other way to expand the pads buck such that they'll work properly?? thanks again, Geof Schrag 1980 Bronco 351M, 4sp == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 11:56:35 -0400 From: Andre Roy Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem Geoffrey Schrag wrote: > > Hey Guys, > > Recently I checked the pads for the rear drums on my bronco, I was > getting a sqealing noise after driving the truck around town for 30 min or > so. Pads looked ok, maybe a little bit glazed. I had to retract the > brakes a bit by spinning the little adjustment dial to get the drums off. > Well, now that I've put them back on the drum brakes don't seem to be > working and the pedal is a bit spongy when I depress it. Manual said they > should adjust themselves, it it necessary to spin the dial back the other > way to expand the pads buck such that they'll work properly?? > They'll only adjust themselves when you apply the brake in reverse. If you've adjusted them fairly far away from the drum to remove them, it will take a while for them to get back into place, if they ever will. It's probably a good idea to set them back, more or less to where they were. - -- Andre == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 12:00:54 -0400 From: "Ratcliff, Dale" Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem The self adjusters work when you back up and hit the brakes. Try backing up and hitting the brakes several times to adjust the rear brakes. Dale Ratcliff Email : dratc Telxon.com 92 F150 SC LB - -----Original Message----- From: Geoffrey Schrag [mailto:gschrag bitstream.net] Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 10:35 AM To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com Subject: FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem Hey Guys, Recently I checked the pads for the rear drums on my bronco, I was getting a sqealing noise after driving the truck around town for 30 min or so. Pads looked ok, maybe a little bit glazed. I had to retract the brakes a bit by spinning the little adjustment dial to get the drums off. Well, now that I've put them back on the drum brakes don't seem to be working and the pedal is a bit spongy when I depress it. Manual said they should adjust themselves, it it necessary to spin the dial back the other way to expand the pads buck such that they'll work properly?? thanks again, Geof Schrag 1980 Bronco 351M, 4sp == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 09:38:03 -0700 From: Paul Laughlin Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem Matthew Banevich wrote: > OK.... I think that is what I kinda replaced..... but now a new > question, What does a fuseable link do? The thing that fried was a > black piece of wire that looked to be 14ga cu wirethat was 6" long, and > on the connector piece was molded "fuseable link"..... > > I just replaced that portion with 10 ga wire! > Did I mess up by just replaing that thing with a regular piece of > wire... Considering that the fusible link just kept you from frying your electrical system, I would have thought that you would have no second thoughts about replacin it with a like item. Yes you screwed up!!!! Paul in Portland OR == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 09:36:20 -0700 From: "McMahon, Todd R." Subject: FTE 80-96 - Info on Electrical shorts John: Just for clarification... Yes, depending on available power, a short can indeed draw enough amperage to cause damage. In this case, the wire you repaired acted like a fuse, or fuseable link. Fuses and resistors work on similar principles. A fuse is designed to warm up and melt if too much current passes through it. A resistor warms up as current passes through it, dissipating some of that energy as heat... many of the larger slo-blow fuses are in fact resistors designed to self-destruct if too much current passes through it. When your solenoid shorted out, power from the battery was then diverted through that wire. Electricity always follows the path to 'ground' that offers the least resistance. This wire would have warmed-up along it's entire length, and failed (melted/burned) where the most 'resistance' (in that path of least resistance) was encountered. If a wire has no structural defects that increase resistance (caused by being exposed to heat, or bends, kinks, or even a manufacturing defect) it will usually fail right in the middle of the wire, or at either end where connections are made. I have had a short in a cable harness that melted the insulation of the wire from end to end. I ended up having to open the harness and inspect it for other shorts, as it was possible that the burned wire might have melted through the insulation of a neighboring wire, and shorted it out too. I was fortunate, and could remove the harness easily, remove and replace the offending wire from end to end, and wrap it all back up in electrical tape (a new harness was over $100.00). I guess the point I'm trying to make here is that you should probably inspect ALL wires attached to the solenoid, and the wires arround the one that you repaired. Keep in mind that there is a good possibility that the repaired wire could fail at some other point along it's length (especially at the connections) if it was damaged. You might also have problems later with the ignition switch, as this is where the electrical contact that burned the wire was made. I wouldn't go to the trouble of replacing them NOW mind you, just remember to look at these areas FIRST should another problem arise. Todd =================================== Good News! Big Red is alive and well thanks to all your help! Checked the solenoid based upon your suggestions and it was toast. Funny thing was that when I replaced it, there still was no go! I then checked the wire that comes from the ignition switch to the solenoid and when the key was turned there was no juice. Interesting eh! To make a long story short, I checked the continuity of the wire and found it was open some where between the connector at the bottom of the steering column and where it exits the cab through the fire wall. Not wanting to tear the dash and wiring harness apart, I just spliced in another wire to bypass the "bad" piece and everything works fine. My next question is why the wire went open? When the solenoid went south, did it draw enough current through the ignition to fry the wire? Is there a fuse inline or does that wire go through the fuse panel. I do not have an electrical diagram with me so I cannot answer those questions. Any thoughts? - -- ********************************* J.A.Bowman Big Red - 1983 F100 Halifax, Nova Scotia Canada email: mooster canada.com ********************************* == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 09:53:19 -0700 From: Vogt Family Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Low oil pressure on 86 F250 diesel On Wed, 5 May 1999, "Steve Chiang" wrote: > > I just acquired a 1986 F250 XLT Lariat 4x4 a few days ago. The truck has an > almost new 6.9 diesel engine(only has 27K miles) and an after market ATS > Turbo(I think the factory Turbo Diesel didn't come out until a year or two > later). The truck drove well, the only thing that I thought was out of the > ordinary was the oil pressure gauge always stay close to the bottom of the > Normal range. The only times the pressure comes up to the middle of Normal > was after a cold start, but once the engine was sufficiently warmed up, it's > back to the bottom of Normal again. I've talked to the previous owner and he > said it's been always like that and he never did quite figure out why but it > didn't seem to affect any operation. The previous owner took very good care > of the truck . He spent $2500 barely 8 months ago to replace the whole AC, > redo the seats and all the wiring for the power toys, when he said it drove > fine, its in good faith. I just wonder if anybody has any idea if the low > end of oil pressure indicates any type of problem or is this normal ? Most likely you have the dreaded "Ford Gauge Problem". However, your symptoms are not quite the classic ones, so I would consider it a good idea to temporarily hook up a known good mechanical oil pressure gauge in the stock sender's hole to see what you're really getting. Do your fuel and temperature gauges also do strange things? As a side note, does anyone know if this particular truck uses the famous "idiot gauge" or is there a real sender? Birken == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 10:07:25 -0700 From: Matthew.G.Allen nww01.usace.army.mil Subject: FTE 80-96 - 95' F150 5.0 Ping Thanks again guys - didn't have time to mess with it last night, too many yard chores... will get to it tonight. Glad to hear knock sensor is probably not the problem, really don't want to get into taking manifolds off, all the wires and hoses on these newer rig make me nervous. Looks like I may be scheduling an injector cleaning and possible re-torquing of the lower intake manifold bolts in the near future. Replaced the fuel filter a few weeks ago, you're right, what a PITA! Bought the filter and expected to be done in 15 minutes... finally got it installed the next night after a trip downtown to get the special tool and a couple of nights worth of knuckle busting. Changing the plugs on the passenger side tends to remove a little skin from the hands as well... I'll keep ya posted, thx again... Matt Allen Kennewick, WA - ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 07:42:00 -0700 From: Matthew.G.Allen nww01.usace.army.mil Subject: FTE 80-96 - 95' 5.0 Ping Thanks for all the good info last couple of days, you guys know your stuff... tried replying yesterday but forgot to put something in subject so it came back. I'm new, will get the hang in time. I moved the 1-2 and 5-6 wires apart as Wayne suggested, still pinging... I'll move ALL the wires apart, try a different set of plugs, and check timing again tonight... timing has always been right on at 10 degrees. What kind of plugs are working best for you guys? What all is involved with injector cleaning? I suspect I'm better off taking it in. Often wish I still had my 72 Bronc... could actually work on it and somewhat know what I was doing (Holley 4bbl, headers, glass packs... extra points, plugs, and a timing light kept under the seat). I also read a little on a "knock sensor". Anyone had problems with one of these, and if so how expensive and hard was it to replace? Probably one of the "black boxes with wires" sitting beside all the ignition stuff. Thanks again- Matt Allen Kennewick, WA - - ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 20:32:33 -0500 From: "Dave Harmier" Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Ping I second Wayne about those wires!!! One day several months ago, I pulled my 350 gallon trailer empty on my weekly trip 70 miles north. My 92 5.0 pinged on hills and such going up. On a whim I moved my old Autozone wires FAR apart! At nearly 3000 pounds coming back, NO PING! Even over BIG bridge over Ship Channel! However, a change to new Motorcraft wires didn't seem to change anything else. Get those wires apart!!! Dave H. Houston, TX - ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 18:22:09 EDT From: FLR150 aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95' 5.0 Ping On the knock sensor..I hope you have skinny forearms or are willing to take off the upper manifold. The knock sensor on our trucks are in the back on the block, on the top of the block, DIRECTLY behind the lower manifold mounting groove. It took me an hour and a half of trying without pulling the upper manifold, then my skinny stepbro showed up and had it pulled and replaced in 20 minutes...go figure. This may or may not have anything to do with it..but I would think not. The knock sensor RETARDS timing, pinging means running too lean or detonation. The fuel injector cleaning is something best left for a reputable shop to handle. Though I have heard of a kit (watching Shadetree Mechanic) that we do it yourselfers can use and works as good as the shop done cleaning. You also may want to check the fuel filter...this is a PITA too. Its on the inside frame rail on the back just in front of the tank, actually partly behind the tank...requires a special tool, and is just a tight squeeze to do. Good luck and let us know what you find, Wayne Foy '94 Flareside SC "Hazardous Material" - ------------------------------ - ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 00:39:07 -0500 From: Jim Cannon Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95' 5.0 Ping Knock sensor is a possible cause of pinging, but low probability of that being the problem. A faulty knock sensor will not send a signal to the computer. The computer will keep advancing the timing and not get a knock signal, so think everything is A-OK. Computer does not pick up fact that knock sensor is bad, so no code. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 10:38:29 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - hard starting A: If you switch to a high flow Non-aerobic Catalytic converter, you won't need the air pump, and your motor will run cleaner and use less gas (which is why the newer vehicles don't need an air pump) >>Jim Cannon wrote: At 19:48 05/05/99 -0600, you wrote: I am new to posting. Have read with interest the dialogue around smog pump, and am curious to hear another explanation of the utility of this beast. My understanding is the injected air serves to dilute the emissions so that testing the exhaust gases at the tailpipe gives acceptable readings. The smog pump puts oxygen into the hot exhaust gas stream in the exhaust manifold or into the cat converter. Either way, the oxygen comples combustion of unburned hydrocarbons and CO to reduce emmissions. It really chemically reduces emmissions, it does not just "dilute them" as many people think. It is a simple way to reduce pollution without a big performance hit. >Right. Emmissions for North America are measured in grams per mile. So mixing air into the exaust stream to dilute it wouldn't change the mass of emmissions released, it would lower the percentage, though. But lowered percentage wouldn't pass the emmissions certifications. The air is used to finish the oxidation process of the exhaust. Can't help you with the cold starting, though, sorry. - -- Andre Jim Blair, Seattle WA 1983 Cherokee 4 dr 4.2L six, 999 AT, Manual hubs Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html FREE Online Photo Album: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998&Auth=false == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 12:16:16 -0700 (PDT) From: Casey Vandor Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead Big Red I have had the same problem on mine numerous times. It is tough, but you might go and spend $30 bucks on a new voltage regulator. I have the same symptoms about every 3 months. Strong Battery, turn key, --no click--. When I jumped the solenoid it would fire, which made me believe the voltage regualtor was not the problem, but I finally broke down and bought one, problem solved (for another 3 months, then it died again) Havn't figured out the recurring part of it yet. >>>>>>>>> Good guess. If it is not that, I would suspect the starter solenoid. Battery is strong, so you should at least hear a loud "CLICK" if the solenoid is getting juice. You can test this with a voltmeter and a buddy to turn the key. Put the voltmeter probes on the corresponding positive and negative terminals of the solenoid and have someone turn the key. If you get a sudden jump in the juice, and no click, the solenoid is bad. Good news is that this part is very cheap and very easy to replace. >>>>>>>>> === "That's the whole problem with science. You've got a bunch of empiricists trying to describe things of unimaginable wonder." - Calvin (& Hobbes) Casey Vandor http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/ 83 F-250 4x4 _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 12:14:26 -0700 (PDT) From: docster webtv.net (Delvis Teruel Jr Teruel) Subject: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle Hey Chris, the intake snorkle for a 5.0/5.8 sits up high just under the hood with just the small hood opening to draw the air from. The 460 piece I'm using, pulls air just outboard of the radiator. The piece is set up with the opening pointing to the left, I trimmed it so it'll pull from the front. I also trimmed some of the shroud foward of radiator that is next to the snorkle so to give it a little more clean air. This cost $12 from the dealer. This is a direct swap out. I ordered a 3in 30 series flowmaster muffler and had a local muffler shop plumb it in from the cats on back like stock.That was about $200. The underdrive pulleys were $75, and I left the alternator pulley alone, since I didn't want any possible electrical quirks. The K&N filter is a direct swap for your air filter. It's alot less restrictive and is longer lasting, plus you can reclean them yourself. That's about $40 The plugs and wires will be about $40. The truck Idles fine, but it sounds throatier, more like a mustang. On the freeway it doesn't need as much throttle to get up to speed or to pass. She revs alot quicker ,especially over 2000 rpm and doesn't protest on certain hills and passes that I don't have to drop a gear for to get over. I picked up alot of this info from the truck and hot rod type mags. You just gotta pick and choose what'll work for you. These are cheap, and easy mods that anybody can do. I even picked up some of this stuff from this site by asking what the folks did. Hope this helps. Lotsa love Da docster == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 12:21:50 -0700 (PDT) From: Casey Vandor Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Fusible Link Yes, that fusible link is very important, when mine fried, it was the last protection in the wire before the computer (would kinda like to fry the POS, but not right now) Napa didn't stock them here, and Ford wanted anywhere from $40 to $65 per fusible link up here (depending on which one) Pisses me off because it is simply a bundle of wires with a weak spot in it so that when you get a spike, it melts and saves your electronics. Why they want to charge that much is beyond me. I was thinking of fusing it myself, but couldn't find a matching buss or blade fuse at the same rating as the link. Well I am going home for the summer, will be off list until the emd of may so catch up to you all later!! >>>>>> OK.... I think that is what I kinda replaced..... but now a new question, What does a fuseable link do? The thing that fried was a black piece of wire that looked to be 14ga cu wirethat was 6" long, and on the connector piece was molded "fuseable link"..... I just replaced that portion with 10 ga wire! And I painted the negative wires black for future idiots, who don't know how to follow a battery terminal to it's purpose (ground or to the Starter Solenoid).... Did I mess up by just replaing that thing with a regular piece of wire... the shielding on the fuseable link portion of wirre was really soft and the break was about 2" after the black thing that said fuseable link? Thankz for the help..... it's really appreciated..... but after I cooled down, I grabbed my test light and got to troubleshooting... With the help I've been asking for, hopefully someone will ask a question that I know the answer to, so I can feel like I helped someone! >>>>>> === "That's the whole problem with science. You've got a bunch of empiricists trying to describe things of unimaginable wonder." - Calvin (& Hobbes) Casey Vandor http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/ 83 F-250 4x4 _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 14:46:25 -0500 From: "Baldwin, Dave (CPCP Design)" Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle > Hey Chris, the intake snorkle for a 5.0/5.8 sits up high > just under the hood with just the small hood opening to draw the air from. The 460 piece I'm using, pulls air just outboard of the radiator..... Yo, Docster! So THAT's what that opening to the left of the radiator is for! I saw that restrictive snorkel on my 5.0, and got rid of the thing. Thought I might fabricate a snorkel to fit the opening that I think you're talking about, when I had time (yeah, right). So you're telling me that the 460 pulls air from this. Does it fit the same airbox (where the filter is)? Do you need to get the 460 airbox too? I heard that Ford had people (especially off-roaders) going into deep water and having the snorkel funnel water up into the engine, which it didn't respond too well to. This is probably why it doesn't face directly forward. What a great tip! Thanks, Docster! Dave Baldwin Dallas, TX == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 13:40:34 PDT From: 2insane excite.com Subject: FTE 80-96 - mixed info F100- 1/4 ton F150- 1/2 ton F250- 3/4 ton F350- 1 ton I don't know about Rangers. They make F550 and F650 trucks but they're mostly HEAVY DUTY trucks from what I know (not much) You can see for yourself at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.boyerford.com/F650/F650ALT.html _______________________________________________________ Get your free, private email at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.excite.com/ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 16:34:56 EDT From: ROlson1039 aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Website Like the website.. and being you've done such a good job on yours if I buy the beer wanna rebuild my 89 F250 into a screamer??? Bob == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 15:52:53 -0500 From: Matthew Banevich Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem Manual said they should adjust themselves...... Haha.... I've heard that too, but from my experience, they never adjust themselves, if you are using your parking brake often, try it on a hill with the truck in neutral..... that'll tell ya if your rear brakes are engaging at all, but be careful, if you don't use the emergency brake often, don't do that.... you probably have to adjust them yourself... good luck == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 16:02:57 -0500 From: Matthew Banevich Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem Paul Laughlin wrote: > > Matthew Banevich wrote: > > OK.... I think that is what I kinda replaced..... but now a new > > question, What does a fuseable link do? The thing that fried was a > > black piece of wire that looked to be 14ga cu wirethat was 6" long, and > > on the connector piece was molded "fuseable link"..... > > > > I just replaced that portion with 10 ga wire! > > > Did I mess up by just replaing that thing with a regular piece of > > wire... > > Considering that the fusible link just kept you from frying your > electrical system, I would have thought that you would have no second > thoughts about replacin it with a like item. > Yes you screwed up!!!! > Paul in Portland OR > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html Sorry, this is the very first time I encountered the "fuseable link" I had never heard of it before..... Now.... since it is so important, How do I find the amperage at which this was rated? All I know was that the whole thing was black, no other things stamped on it! Thankz for all the help guys! 86' Bronco 4.9L-4 speed (alive but in a little danger) 89' Bronco II - FOR SALE == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 14:17:08 -0700 From: "Mike" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem Call the parts store! I believe the color and the length of the link determines the amperage ratting.........Mike - -----Original Message----- From: Matthew Banevich To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com Date: Thursday, May 06, 1999 2:06 PM Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem >Paul Laughlin wrote: >> >> Matthew Banevich wrote: >> > OK.... I think that is what I kinda replaced..... but now a new >> > question, What does a fuseable link do? The thing that fried was a >> > black piece of wire that looked to be 14ga cu wirethat was 6" long, and >> > on the connector piece was molded "fuseable link"..... >> > >> > I just replaced that portion with 10 ga wire! >> >> > Did I mess up by just replaing that thing with a regular piece of >> > wire... >> >> Considering that the fusible link just kept you from frying your >> electrical system, I would have thought that you would have no second >> thoughts about replacin it with a like item. >> Yes you screwed up!!!! >> Paul in Portland OR >> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html >Sorry, this is the very first time I encountered the "fuseable link" I >had never heard of it before..... > >Now.... since it is so important, How do I find the amperage at which >this was rated? All I know was that the whole thing was black, no other >things stamped on it! > >Thankz for all the help guys! > >86' Bronco 4.9L-4 speed (alive but in a little danger) >89' Bronco II - FOR SALE >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 20:31:02 -0500 From: Blake Malkamaki Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle >> Hey Chris, the intake snorkle for a 5.0/5.8 sits up high >> just under the hood with just the small hood opening to draw the air from. >The 460 piece I'm using, pulls air just outboard of the radiator..... > >Yo, Docster! > >So THAT's what that opening to the left of the radiator is for! I saw that >restrictive snorkel on my 5.0, and got rid of the thing. Thought I might >fabricate a snorkel to fit the opening that I think you're talking about, >when I had time (yeah, right). So you're telling me that the 460 pulls air >from this. Does it fit the same airbox (where the filter is)? Do you need >to get the 460 airbox too? My 88 F-150 w/302 picks its air up from the hole to the port side of the radiator. Did some come either way? Blake Little Mountain Concord, Ohio Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake See my new site dedicated to preserving the Big Muskie, the largest moving land machine on earth! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/bigmuskie Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com Desktop Publishing service == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 17:49:09 -0700 From: "McMahon, Todd R." Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle Did you buy it used? Perhaps the previous owner made the modification...? ================ >> Hey Chris, the intake snorkle for a 5.0/5.8 sits up high >> just under the hood with just the small hood opening to draw the air from. >The 460 piece I'm using, pulls air just outboard of the radiator..... > >Yo, Docster! > >So THAT's what that opening to the left of the radiator is for! I saw that >restrictive snorkel on my 5.0, and got rid of the thing. Thought I might >fabricate a snorkel to fit the opening that I think you're talking about, >when I had time (yeah, right). So you're telling me that the 460 pulls air >from this. Does it fit the same airbox (where the filter is)? Do you need >to get the 460 airbox too? My 88 F-150 w/302 picks its air up from the hole to the port side of the radiator. Did some come either way? Blake Little Mountain Concord, Ohio Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake See my new site dedicated to preserving the Big Muskie, the largest moving land machine on earth! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/bigmuskie Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com Desktop Publishing service == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 22:56:53 -0400 (EDT) From: chrislambeth email.com Subject: FTE 80-96 - big block blues It's time that my 95 F-150 had a sort of a makeover. This in the way of a fuel injected 429 under the hood to replace the tired old 302. (good motor mind you, just 128 k on the thing) I was wondering if anybody had any insight, advice or whatever on how to pull this project off, as I am no EFI expert. If anybody has any ideas, or a good shop in the D/FW area of north Texas that can do a fuel injection conversion on the motor, anything would be helpful at this point. Thanks! Chris Lambeth - ----------------------------------------------- FREE! The World's Best Email Address email.com Reserve your name now at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.email.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 20:06:37 -0700 From: "Mark Behling" Subject: FTE 80-96 - DRI injectors With all this talk about fuel injector cleaning lately. I thought it would be a good idea to get mine cleaned, since it seems to run a little rough at idle. So I called the Ford dealer to see how much an injector cleaning would cost. The service advisior said I had "DRI" or "Deposit Resistant Injectors" and didn't require cleaning. He said newer Fords have injectors which have a special coating that eliminates the need for cleaning. He also claimed, there is a TSB on against using fuel system cleaners. Which can wash off the special coating and cause premature wear of the injector needle. Has anybody heard about this type of injector on newer Fords or is the dealer just BS'n me? Mark '96 F150 I6 5sp == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 22:40:56 -0500 From: Jim Cannon Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Low oil pressure on 86 F250 diesel At 09:53 06/05/99 -0700, you wrote: >On Wed, 5 May 1999, "Steve Chiang" wrote: >> >> I just acquired a 1986 F250 XLT Lariat 4x4 a few days ago. >As a side note, does anyone know if this particular truck uses the >famous "idiot gauge" or is there a real sender? > This year has "real" guages (as real as Ford junk guages are, that is). Jim Cannon Houston, TX '29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera '80 Ford F-150 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 22:44:53 -0500 From: Jim Cannon Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - hard starting At 10:38 06/05/99 -0700, you wrote: >A: If you switch to a high flow Non-aerobic Catalytic converter, you >won't need the air pump, and your motor will run cleaner and use less >gas (which is why the newer vehicles don't need an air pump) > Where does one get such a beast? Brand name? Cost? Jim Cannon Houston, TX '29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera '80 Ford F-150 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 01:30:17 -0500 From: Blake Malkamaki Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle >Did you buy it used? Perhaps the previous owner made the modification...? > Yes I did. He very well could have changed it. He changed about everything else. Blake Little Mountain Concord, Ohio Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake See my new site dedicated to preserving the Big Muskie, the largest moving land machine on earth! .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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