80-96-list-digest Friday, May 7 1999 Volume 03 : Number 128



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem
FTE 80-96 - Dead Big Red - Update
FTE 80-96 - re: '95 5.0 Ping
Re: FTE 80-96 - hard starting
Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem
FTE 80-96 - wayne
FTE 80-96 - Manual transmission questions
FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Big Red - Update
FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem
RE: FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem
FTE 80-96 - Info on Electrical shorts
FTE 80-96 - Re: Low oil pressure on 86 F250 diesel
FTE 80-96 - 95' F150 5.0 Ping
Re: FTE 80-96 - hard starting
FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead Big Red
FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle
FTE 80-96 - Re: Fusible Link
RE: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle
FTE 80-96 - mixed info
Re: FTE 80-96 - Website
Re: FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem
RE: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle
RE: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle
FTE 80-96 - big block blues
FTE 80-96 - DRI injectors
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Low oil pressure on 86 F250 diesel
Re: FTE 80-96 - hard starting
RE: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle
Re: FTE 80-96 - big block blues

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Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 13:00:44 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnar?= Huse
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem

Re fusible link and battery polarity mixup...

Ehh, yes, you messed up...

The fusible link is nothing more than a piece of wire with a fuse
soldered to it. You need to replace it with a similarly rated fuse (you
may buy a fuse holder and standard fuse as replacement).

- --
Bjornar Huse
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://bryggen.bgnett.no/~bjornar
1 Son, 3 yrs
1 Groenendael, 4 yrs
1 1990 Ford E-250 Club Wagon 7.3 diesel, 3.54, E4OD
1 1994 Ford Escort 1.3
1 1947 Studebaker M-15 A-28 dump truck
Oh, yes, one 1971 wife, too!


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Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 08:00:46 -0300
From: "Bowman, John A"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dead Big Red - Update

Good News! Big Red is alive and well thanks to all your help! Checked
the solenoid based upon your suggestions and it was toast. Funny thing
was that when I replaced it, there still was no go! I then checked the
wire that comes from the ignition switch to the solenoid and when the
key was turned there was no juice. Interesting eh! To make a long story
short, I checked the continuity of the wire and found it was open some
where between the connector at the bottom of the steering column and
where it exits the cab through the fire wall. Not wanting to tear the
dash and wiring harness apart, I just spliced in another wire to bypass
the "bad" piece and everything works fine.

My next question is why the wire went open? When the solenoid went
south, did it draw enough current through the ignition to fry the wire?
Is there a fuse inline or does that wire go through the fuse panel. I do
not have an electrical diagram with me so I cannot answer those
questions. Any thoughts?

- --
*********************************
J.A.Bowman
Big Red - 1983 F100
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Canada
email: mooster canada.com
*********************************


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Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 08:09:15 -0300
From: "Bowman, John A"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re: '95 5.0 Ping

For what it is worth...

My '83 F100 302 would ping on hills and I cured the problem by using a
mid range octane (90 - 91) is stead of the cheap stuff ( 86 -87 octane).
Worked for me!

- --
*********************************
J.A.Bowman
Big Red - 1983 F100
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Canada
email: mooster canada.com
*********************************


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Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 08:54:46 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - hard starting

Jim Cannon wrote:
>
> At 19:48 05/05/99 -0600, you wrote:
> >I am new to posting. Have read with interest the dialogue around smog pump,
> >and am curious to hear another explanation of the utility of this beast. My
> >understanding is the injected air serves to dilute the emissions so that
> >testing the exhaust gases at the tailpipe gives acceptable readings.
>
> The smog pump puts oxygen into the hot exhaust gas stream in the exhaust
> manifold or into the cat converter. Either way, the oxygen comples
> combustion of unburned hydrocarbons and CO to reduce emmissions. It really
> chemically reduces emmissions, it does not just "dilute them" as many
> people think. It is a simple way to reduce pollution without a big
> performance hit.
>
Right. Emmissions for North America are measured in grams per mile. So
mixing air into the exaust stream to dilute it wouldn't change the mass
of emmissions released, it would lower the percentage, though. But
lowered percentage wouldn't pass the emmissions certifications.

The air is used to finish the oxidation process of the exhaust.

Can't help you with the cold starting, though, sorry.
- --
Andre
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Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 08:59:23 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem

Matthew Banevich wrote:
>
> It's probably just a fried fusible link.
>
> Steve S.
>
> OK.... I think that is what I kinda replaced..... but now a new
> question, What does a fuseable link do?
>
it's basically a fuse.

>
> I just replaced that portion with 10 ga wire!
>
Oh-oh.

> And I painted the negative wires black for future idiots,
>
That's good.

>
> Did I mess up by just replaing that thing with a regular piece of
> wire...
>
Yup. Get the spec for the fusable link in Amperes. Then either replace
the wire with a new fusable link or splice an inline fuse into the wire
rated at what the link was rated at. If you don't, you risk Frying your
Ford.

> the shielding on the fuseable link portion of wirre was really soft and
> the break was about 2" after the black thing that said fuseable link?
>
The "wire" is the fuse. That's where it burned out.
- --
Andre
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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 09:49:08 EDT
From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - wayne

lookin great man

luke
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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 11:04:24 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Manual transmission questions

I am new to the list, so please forgive me if my question has already been
discussed in detail. You can write directly to me if you wish.

I have an 88 F-150 4x4 with 302 and mazda 5 speed overdrive. Well the
transmission leaks pretty bad and needs attention, and since it is geared
too darned high in first and reverse, I was wondering if a Ford ZF 5 speed
will bolt in to replace it. I presume this is a common complaint because
everyone I know who has one hates it because they can't back trailers
unless they have 4 wheel drive and can throw it in low range.

Thank you for your help.

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
See my new site dedicated to preserving the Big Muskie,
the largest moving land machine on earth!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/bigmuskie
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service


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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:09:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Alex Wolfe
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problems

It would really be best to replace that fusable like with another
one, not wire. It does just as the name suggests... it's a fuse. So
at this point if you were to hook up your batt reversed again you might
indeed fry something important rather than the link (or have a short,
or a rabid woodchuck chewing on wires, etc...).

Alex
'84 F-150 I6 (I6 currently in pieces, owner crying over
the parts bill)

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:23:28 -0700
From: "Mike"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Big Red - Update

Check to see if it starts in gear. If it does you bypassed the Neutral
Safety switch.........Mike

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bowman, John A
To: Ford Truck Digest
Date: Thursday, May 06, 1999 4:05 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dead Big Red - Update


>Good News! Big Red is alive and well thanks to all your help! Checked
>the solenoid based upon your suggestions and it was toast. Funny thing
>was that when I replaced it, there still was no go! I then checked the
>wire that comes from the ignition switch to the solenoid and when the
>key was turned there was no juice. Interesting eh! To make a long story
>short, I checked the continuity of the wire and found it was open some
>where between the connector at the bottom of the steering column and
>where it exits the cab through the fire wall. Not wanting to tear the
>dash and wiring harness apart, I just spliced in another wire to bypass
>the "bad" piece and everything works fine.
>
>My next question is why the wire went open? When the solenoid went
>south, did it draw enough current through the ignition to fry the wire?
>Is there a fuse inline or does that wire go through the fuse panel. I do
>not have an electrical diagram with me so I cannot answer those
>questions. Any thoughts?
>
>--
>*********************************
>J.A.Bowman
>Big Red - 1983 F100
>Halifax, Nova Scotia
>Canada
>email: mooster canada.com
>*********************************
>
>
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>

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Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 10:35:20 -0500
From: Geoffrey Schrag
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem

Hey Guys,

Recently I checked the pads for the rear drums on my bronco, I was
getting a sqealing noise after driving the truck around town for 30 min or
so. Pads looked ok, maybe a little bit glazed. I had to retract the
brakes a bit by spinning the little adjustment dial to get the drums off.
Well, now that I've put them back on the drum brakes don't seem to be
working and the pedal is a bit spongy when I depress it. Manual said they
should adjust themselves, it it necessary to spin the dial back the other
way to expand the pads buck such that they'll work properly??

thanks again,

Geof Schrag
1980 Bronco
351M, 4sp


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Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 11:56:35 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem

Geoffrey Schrag wrote:
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> Recently I checked the pads for the rear drums on my bronco, I was
> getting a sqealing noise after driving the truck around town for 30 min or
> so. Pads looked ok, maybe a little bit glazed. I had to retract the
> brakes a bit by spinning the little adjustment dial to get the drums off.
> Well, now that I've put them back on the drum brakes don't seem to be
> working and the pedal is a bit spongy when I depress it. Manual said they
> should adjust themselves, it it necessary to spin the dial back the other
> way to expand the pads buck such that they'll work properly??
>
They'll only adjust themselves when you apply the brake in reverse. If
you've adjusted them fairly far away from the drum to remove them, it
will take a while for them to get back into place, if they ever will.
It's probably a good idea to set them back, more or less to where they
were.
- --
Andre
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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 12:00:54 -0400
From: "Ratcliff, Dale"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem

The self adjusters work when you back up and hit the brakes. Try backing up
and hitting the brakes several times to adjust the rear brakes.

Dale Ratcliff
Email : dratc Telxon.com
92 F150 SC LB



- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoffrey Schrag [mailto:gschrag bitstream.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 10:35 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem




Hey Guys,

Recently I checked the pads for the rear drums on my bronco, I was
getting a sqealing noise after driving the truck around town for 30 min or
so. Pads looked ok, maybe a little bit glazed. I had to retract the
brakes a bit by spinning the little adjustment dial to get the drums off.
Well, now that I've put them back on the drum brakes don't seem to be
working and the pedal is a bit spongy when I depress it. Manual said they
should adjust themselves, it it necessary to spin the dial back the other
way to expand the pads buck such that they'll work properly??

thanks again,

Geof Schrag
1980 Bronco
351M, 4sp


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 09:38:03 -0700
From: Paul Laughlin
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem

Matthew Banevich wrote:
> OK.... I think that is what I kinda replaced..... but now a new
> question, What does a fuseable link do? The thing that fried was a
> black piece of wire that looked to be 14ga cu wirethat was 6" long, and
> on the connector piece was molded "fuseable link".....
>
> I just replaced that portion with 10 ga wire!

> Did I mess up by just replaing that thing with a regular piece of
> wire...

Considering that the fusible link just kept you from frying your
electrical system, I would have thought that you would have no second
thoughts about replacin it with a like item.
Yes you screwed up!!!!
Paul in Portland OR
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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 09:36:20 -0700
From: "McMahon, Todd R."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Info on Electrical shorts

John:

Just for clarification... Yes, depending on available power, a short can
indeed draw enough amperage to cause damage. In this case, the wire you
repaired acted like a fuse, or fuseable link. Fuses and resistors work on
similar principles. A fuse is designed to warm up and melt if too much
current passes through it. A resistor warms up as current passes through
it, dissipating some of that energy as heat... many of the larger slo-blow
fuses are in fact resistors designed to self-destruct if too much current
passes through it. When your solenoid shorted out, power from the battery
was then diverted through that wire. Electricity always follows the path to
'ground' that offers the least resistance. This wire would have warmed-up
along it's entire length, and failed (melted/burned) where the most
'resistance' (in that path of least resistance) was encountered. If a wire
has no structural defects that increase resistance (caused by being exposed
to heat, or bends, kinks, or even a manufacturing defect) it will usually
fail right in the middle of the wire, or at either end where connections are
made. I have had a short in a cable harness that melted the insulation of
the wire from end to end. I ended up having to open the harness and inspect
it for other shorts, as it was possible that the burned wire might have
melted through the insulation of a neighboring wire, and shorted it out too.
I was fortunate, and could remove the harness easily, remove and replace the
offending wire from end to end, and wrap it all back up in electrical tape
(a new harness was over $100.00).

I guess the point I'm trying to make here is that you should probably
inspect ALL wires attached to the solenoid, and the wires arround the one
that you repaired. Keep in mind that there is a good possibility that the
repaired wire could fail at some other point along it's length (especially
at the connections) if it was damaged. You might also have problems later
with the ignition switch, as this is where the electrical contact that
burned the wire was made. I wouldn't go to the trouble of replacing them
NOW mind you, just remember to look at these areas FIRST should another
problem arise.

Todd

===================================
Good News! Big Red is alive and well thanks to all your help! Checked
the solenoid based upon your suggestions and it was toast. Funny thing
was that when I replaced it, there still was no go! I then checked the
wire that comes from the ignition switch to the solenoid and when the
key was turned there was no juice. Interesting eh! To make a long story
short, I checked the continuity of the wire and found it was open some
where between the connector at the bottom of the steering column and
where it exits the cab through the fire wall. Not wanting to tear the
dash and wiring harness apart, I just spliced in another wire to bypass
the "bad" piece and everything works fine.

My next question is why the wire went open? When the solenoid went
south, did it draw enough current through the ignition to fry the wire?
Is there a fuse inline or does that wire go through the fuse panel. I do
not have an electrical diagram with me so I cannot answer those
questions. Any thoughts?

- --
*********************************
J.A.Bowman
Big Red - 1983 F100
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Canada
email: mooster canada.com
*********************************


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Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 09:53:19 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Low oil pressure on 86 F250 diesel

On Wed, 5 May 1999, "Steve Chiang" wrote:
>
> I just acquired a 1986 F250 XLT Lariat 4x4 a few days ago. The truck has an
> almost new 6.9 diesel engine(only has 27K miles) and an after market ATS
> Turbo(I think the factory Turbo Diesel didn't come out until a year or two
> later). The truck drove well, the only thing that I thought was out of the
> ordinary was the oil pressure gauge always stay close to the bottom of the
> Normal range. The only times the pressure comes up to the middle of Normal
> was after a cold start, but once the engine was sufficiently warmed up, it's
> back to the bottom of Normal again. I've talked to the previous owner and he
> said it's been always like that and he never did quite figure out why but it
> didn't seem to affect any operation. The previous owner took very good care
> of the truck . He spent $2500 barely 8 months ago to replace the whole AC,
> redo the seats and all the wiring for the power toys, when he said it drove
> fine, its in good faith. I just wonder if anybody has any idea if the low
> end of oil pressure indicates any type of problem or is this normal ?

Most likely you have the dreaded "Ford Gauge Problem". However, your
symptoms are not quite the classic ones, so I would consider it a good
idea to temporarily hook up a known good mechanical oil pressure gauge
in the stock sender's hole to see what you're really getting. Do your
fuel and temperature gauges also do strange things?

As a side note, does anyone know if this particular truck uses the
famous "idiot gauge" or is there a real sender?

Birken
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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 10:07:25 -0700
From: Matthew.G.Allen nww01.usace.army.mil
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 95' F150 5.0 Ping

Thanks again guys - didn't have time to mess with it last night, too many
yard chores... will get to it tonight. Glad to hear knock sensor is
probably not the problem, really don't want to get into taking manifolds
off, all the wires and hoses on these newer rig make me nervous. Looks like
I may be scheduling an injector cleaning and possible re-torquing of the
lower intake manifold bolts in the near future.

Replaced the fuel filter a few weeks ago, you're right, what a PITA! Bought
the filter and expected to be done in 15 minutes... finally got it installed
the next night after a trip downtown to get the special tool and a couple of
nights worth of knuckle busting. Changing the plugs on the passenger side
tends to remove a little skin from the hands as well...

I'll keep ya posted, thx again...

Matt Allen
Kennewick, WA
- ------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 07:42:00 -0700
From: Matthew.G.Allen nww01.usace.army.mil
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 95' 5.0 Ping

Thanks for all the good info last couple of days, you guys know your
stuff... tried replying yesterday but forgot to put something in subject so
it came back. I'm new, will get the hang in time.

I moved the 1-2 and 5-6 wires apart as Wayne suggested, still pinging...
I'll move ALL the wires apart, try a different set of plugs, and check
timing again tonight... timing has always been right on at 10 degrees. What
kind of plugs are working best for you guys?

What all is involved with injector cleaning? I suspect I'm better off
taking it in. Often wish I still had my 72 Bronc... could actually work on
it and somewhat know what I was doing (Holley 4bbl, headers, glass packs...
extra points, plugs, and a timing light kept under the seat).

I also read a little on a "knock sensor". Anyone had problems with one of
these, and if so how expensive and hard was it to replace? Probably one of
the "black boxes with wires" sitting beside all the ignition stuff.

Thanks again-
Matt Allen
Kennewick, WA

- - ------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 20:32:33 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Ping

I second Wayne about those wires!!!

One day several months ago, I pulled my 350 gallon trailer empty on my
weekly trip 70 miles north. My 92 5.0 pinged on hills and such going up.

On a whim I moved my old Autozone wires FAR apart!

At nearly 3000 pounds coming back, NO PING! Even over BIG bridge over Ship
Channel!

However, a change to new Motorcraft wires didn't seem to change anything
else.

Get those wires apart!!!

Dave H.
Houston, TX
- ------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 18:22:09 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95' 5.0 Ping

On the knock sensor..I hope you have skinny forearms or are willing to take
off the upper manifold. The knock sensor on our trucks are in the back on
the
block, on the top of the block, DIRECTLY behind the lower manifold mounting
groove. It took me an hour and a half of trying without pulling the upper
manifold, then my skinny stepbro showed up and had it pulled and replaced in

20 minutes...go figure. This may or may not have anything to do with it..but

I would think not. The knock sensor RETARDS timing, pinging means running
too
lean or detonation. The fuel injector cleaning is something best left for a
reputable shop to handle. Though I have heard of a kit (watching Shadetree
Mechanic) that we do it yourselfers can use and works as good as the shop
done cleaning. You also may want to check the fuel filter...this is a PITA
too. Its on the inside frame rail on the back just in front of the tank,
actually partly behind the tank...requires a special tool, and is just a
tight squeeze to do.
Good luck and let us know what you find,
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
- ------------------------------

- ------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 00:39:07 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95' 5.0 Ping

Knock sensor is a possible cause of pinging, but low probability of that
being the problem. A faulty knock sensor will not send a signal to the
computer. The computer will keep advancing the timing and not get a knock
signal, so think everything is A-OK. Computer does not pick up fact that
knock sensor is bad, so no code.

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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 10:38:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carnuck webtv.net (James Blair)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - hard starting

A: If you switch to a high flow Non-aerobic Catalytic converter, you
won't need the air pump, and your motor will run cleaner and use less
gas (which is why the newer vehicles don't need an air pump)

>>Jim Cannon wrote:
At 19:48 05/05/99 -0600, you wrote:
I am new to posting. Have read with interest the dialogue around smog
pump, and am curious to hear another explanation of the utility of this
beast. My understanding is the injected air serves to dilute the
emissions so that testing the exhaust gases at the tailpipe gives
acceptable readings.
The smog pump puts oxygen into the hot exhaust gas stream in the exhaust
manifold or into the cat converter. Either way, the oxygen comples
combustion of unburned hydrocarbons and CO to reduce emmissions. It
really chemically reduces emmissions, it does not just "dilute them" as
many people think. It is a simple way to reduce pollution without a big
performance hit.

>Right. Emmissions for North America are measured in grams per mile. So
mixing air into the exaust stream to dilute it wouldn't change the mass
of emmissions released, it would lower the percentage, though. But
lowered percentage wouldn't pass the emmissions certifications.
The air is used to finish the oxidation process of the exhaust.
Can't help you with the cold starting, though, sorry.
- --
Andre


Jim Blair, Seattle WA 1983 Cherokee 4 dr 4.2L six, 999 AT, Manual hubs
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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 12:16:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Vandor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead Big Red

I have had the same problem on mine numerous times. It is tough, but
you might go and spend $30 bucks on a new voltage regulator. I have
the same symptoms about every 3 months. Strong Battery, turn key, --no
click--. When I jumped the solenoid it would fire, which made me
believe the voltage regualtor was not the problem, but I finally broke
down and bought one, problem solved (for another 3 months, then it died
again) Havn't figured out the recurring part of it yet.

>>>>>>>>>
Good guess. If it is not that, I would suspect the starter solenoid.
Battery is strong, so you should at least hear a loud "CLICK" if the
solenoid is getting juice. You can test this with a voltmeter and a
buddy to turn the key. Put the voltmeter probes on the corresponding
positive and negative terminals of the solenoid and have someone turn
the key. If you get a sudden jump in the juice, and no click, the
solenoid is bad. Good news is that this part is very cheap and very
easy to replace.
>>>>>>>>>
===
"That's the whole problem with science. You've got a bunch of empiricists trying to describe things of unimaginable wonder." - Calvin (& Hobbes)

Casey Vandor
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/
83 F-250 4x4
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 12:14:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: docster webtv.net (Delvis Teruel Jr Teruel)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle

Hey Chris, the intake snorkle for a 5.0/5.8 sits up high just under the
hood with just the small hood opening to draw the air from. The 460
piece I'm using, pulls air just outboard of the radiator. The piece is
set up with the opening pointing to the left, I trimmed it so it'll pull
from the front. I also trimmed some of the shroud foward of radiator
that is next to the snorkle so to give it a little more clean air. This
cost $12 from the dealer. This is a direct swap out. I ordered a 3in
30 series flowmaster muffler and had a local muffler shop plumb it in
from the cats on back like stock.That was about $200. The underdrive
pulleys were $75, and I left the alternator pulley alone, since I didn't
want any possible electrical quirks. The K&N filter is a direct swap
for your air filter. It's alot less restrictive and is longer lasting,
plus you can reclean them yourself. That's about $40 The plugs and
wires will be about $40. The truck Idles fine, but it sounds
throatier, more like a mustang. On the freeway it doesn't need as much
throttle to get up to speed or to pass. She revs alot quicker
,especially over 2000 rpm and doesn't protest on certain hills and
passes that I don't have to drop a gear for to get over. I picked up
alot of this info from the truck and hot rod type mags. You just gotta
pick and choose what'll work for you. These are cheap, and easy mods
that anybody can do. I even picked up some of this stuff from this site
by asking what the folks did. Hope this helps.

Lotsa love Da docster

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 12:21:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Vandor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Fusible Link

Yes, that fusible link is very important, when mine fried, it was the
last protection in the wire before the computer (would kinda like to
fry the POS, but not right now) Napa didn't stock them here, and Ford
wanted anywhere from $40 to $65 per fusible link up here (depending on
which one) Pisses me off because it is simply a bundle of wires with a
weak spot in it so that when you get a spike, it melts and saves your
electronics. Why they want to charge that much is beyond me. I was
thinking of fusing it myself, but couldn't find a matching buss or
blade fuse at the same rating as the link.

Well I am going home for the summer, will be off list until the emd of
may so catch up to you all later!!

>>>>>>
OK.... I think that is what I kinda replaced..... but now a new
question, What does a fuseable link do? The thing that fried was a
black piece of wire that looked to be 14ga cu wirethat was 6" long, and
on the connector piece was molded "fuseable link".....
I just replaced that portion with 10 ga wire!
And I painted the negative wires black for future idiots, who don't
know
how to follow a battery terminal to it's purpose (ground or to the
Starter Solenoid)....
Did I mess up by just replaing that thing with a regular piece of
wire...
the shielding on the fuseable link portion of wirre was really soft and
the break was about 2" after the black thing that said fuseable link?
Thankz for the help..... it's really appreciated..... but after I
cooled down, I grabbed my test light and got to troubleshooting...
With the help I've been asking for, hopefully someone will ask a
question that I know the answer to, so I can feel like I helped
someone!
>>>>>>
===
"That's the whole problem with science. You've got a bunch of empiricists trying to describe things of unimaginable wonder." - Calvin (& Hobbes)

Casey Vandor
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/
83 F-250 4x4
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 14:46:25 -0500
From: "Baldwin, Dave (CPCP Design)"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle

> Hey Chris, the intake snorkle for a 5.0/5.8 sits up high
> just under the hood with just the small hood opening to draw the air from.
The 460 piece I'm using, pulls air just outboard of the radiator.....

Yo, Docster!

So THAT's what that opening to the left of the radiator is for! I saw that
restrictive snorkel on my 5.0, and got rid of the thing. Thought I might
fabricate a snorkel to fit the opening that I think you're talking about,
when I had time (yeah, right). So you're telling me that the 460 pulls air
from this. Does it fit the same airbox (where the filter is)? Do you need
to get the 460 airbox too?

I heard that Ford had people (especially off-roaders) going into deep water
and having the snorkel funnel water up into the engine, which it didn't
respond too well to. This is probably why it doesn't face directly forward.


What a great tip! Thanks, Docster!

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 13:40:34 PDT
From: 2insane excite.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - mixed info

F100- 1/4 ton
F150- 1/2 ton
F250- 3/4 ton
F350- 1 ton
I don't know about Rangers. They make F550 and F650 trucks but they're
mostly HEAVY DUTY trucks from what I know (not much) You can see for
yourself at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.boyerford.com/F650/F650ALT.html




_______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 16:34:56 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Website

Like the website.. and being you've done such a good job on yours if I buy
the beer wanna rebuild my 89 F250 into a screamer???
Bob
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 15:52:53 -0500
From: Matthew Banevich
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Drum brake problem

Manual said they
should adjust themselves......


Haha.... I've heard that too, but from my experience, they never adjust
themselves, if you are using your parking brake often, try it on a hill
with the truck in neutral..... that'll tell ya if your rear brakes are
engaging at all, but be careful, if you don't use the emergency brake
often, don't do that....

you probably have to adjust them yourself... good luck
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 16:02:57 -0500
From: Matthew Banevich
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem

Paul Laughlin wrote:
>
> Matthew Banevich wrote:
> > OK.... I think that is what I kinda replaced..... but now a new
> > question, What does a fuseable link do? The thing that fried was a
> > black piece of wire that looked to be 14ga cu wirethat was 6" long, and
> > on the connector piece was molded "fuseable link".....
> >
> > I just replaced that portion with 10 ga wire!
>
> > Did I mess up by just replaing that thing with a regular piece of
> > wire...
>
> Considering that the fusible link just kept you from frying your
> electrical system, I would have thought that you would have no second
> thoughts about replacin it with a like item.
> Yes you screwed up!!!!
> Paul in Portland OR
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
Sorry, this is the very first time I encountered the "fuseable link" I
had never heard of it before.....

Now.... since it is so important, How do I find the amperage at which
this was rated? All I know was that the whole thing was black, no other
things stamped on it!

Thankz for all the help guys!

86' Bronco 4.9L-4 speed (alive but in a little danger)
89' Bronco II - FOR SALE
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 14:17:08 -0700
From: "Mike"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem

Call the parts store! I believe the color and the length of the link
determines the amperage ratting.........Mike


- -----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Banevich
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, May 06, 1999 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Serious Electrical Problem


>Paul Laughlin wrote:
>>
>> Matthew Banevich wrote:
>> > OK.... I think that is what I kinda replaced..... but now a new
>> > question, What does a fuseable link do? The thing that fried was a
>> > black piece of wire that looked to be 14ga cu wirethat was 6" long, and
>> > on the connector piece was molded "fuseable link".....
>> >
>> > I just replaced that portion with 10 ga wire!
>>
>> > Did I mess up by just replaing that thing with a regular piece of
>> > wire...
>>
>> Considering that the fusible link just kept you from frying your
>> electrical system, I would have thought that you would have no second
>> thoughts about replacin it with a like item.
>> Yes you screwed up!!!!
>> Paul in Portland OR
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>Sorry, this is the very first time I encountered the "fuseable link" I
>had never heard of it before.....
>
>Now.... since it is so important, How do I find the amperage at which
>this was rated? All I know was that the whole thing was black, no other
>things stamped on it!
>
>Thankz for all the help guys!
>
>86' Bronco 4.9L-4 speed (alive but in a little danger)
>89' Bronco II - FOR SALE
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 20:31:02 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle

>> Hey Chris, the intake snorkle for a 5.0/5.8 sits up high
>> just under the hood with just the small hood opening to draw the air from.
>The 460 piece I'm using, pulls air just outboard of the radiator.....
>
>Yo, Docster!
>
>So THAT's what that opening to the left of the radiator is for! I saw that
>restrictive snorkel on my 5.0, and got rid of the thing. Thought I might
>fabricate a snorkel to fit the opening that I think you're talking about,
>when I had time (yeah, right). So you're telling me that the 460 pulls air
>from this. Does it fit the same airbox (where the filter is)? Do you need
>to get the 460 airbox too?

My 88 F-150 w/302 picks its air up from the hole to the port side of the
radiator. Did some come either way?


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
See my new site dedicated to preserving the Big Muskie,
the largest moving land machine on earth!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/bigmuskie
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 17:49:09 -0700
From: "McMahon, Todd R."
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle

Did you buy it used? Perhaps the previous owner made the modification...?

================
>> Hey Chris, the intake snorkle for a 5.0/5.8 sits up high
>> just under the hood with just the small hood opening to draw the air
from.
>The 460 piece I'm using, pulls air just outboard of the radiator.....
>
>Yo, Docster!
>
>So THAT's what that opening to the left of the radiator is for! I saw that
>restrictive snorkel on my 5.0, and got rid of the thing. Thought I might
>fabricate a snorkel to fit the opening that I think you're talking about,
>when I had time (yeah, right). So you're telling me that the 460 pulls air
>from this. Does it fit the same airbox (where the filter is)? Do you need
>to get the 460 airbox too?

My 88 F-150 w/302 picks its air up from the hole to the port side of the
radiator. Did some come either way?


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
See my new site dedicated to preserving the Big Muskie,
the largest moving land machine on earth!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/bigmuskie
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 22:56:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: chrislambeth email.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - big block blues

It's time that my 95 F-150 had a sort of a makeover. This in the way of a fuel injected 429 under the hood to replace the tired old 302. (good motor mind you, just 128 k on the thing) I was wondering if anybody had any insight, advice or whatever on how to pull this project off, as I am no EFI expert. If anybody has any ideas, or a good shop in the D/FW area of north Texas that can do a fuel injection conversion on the motor, anything would be helpful at this point.

Thanks!

Chris Lambeth

- -----------------------------------------------
FREE! The World's Best Email Address email.com
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 20:06:37 -0700
From: "Mark Behling"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - DRI injectors

With all this talk about fuel injector cleaning lately. I thought it would be a
good idea to get mine cleaned, since it seems to run a little rough at idle. So I
called the Ford dealer to see how much an injector cleaning would cost. The service
advisior said I had "DRI" or "Deposit Resistant Injectors" and didn't require cleaning.
He said newer Fords have injectors which have a special coating that eliminates the
need for cleaning. He also claimed, there is a TSB on against using fuel system
cleaners. Which can wash off the special coating and cause premature wear of the
injector needle. Has anybody heard about this type of injector on newer Fords or is the
dealer just BS'n me?

Mark
'96 F150 I6 5sp

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 22:40:56 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Low oil pressure on 86 F250 diesel

At 09:53 06/05/99 -0700, you wrote:
>On Wed, 5 May 1999, "Steve Chiang" wrote:
>>
>> I just acquired a 1986 F250 XLT Lariat 4x4 a few days ago.

>As a side note, does anyone know if this particular truck uses the
>famous "idiot gauge" or is there a real sender?
>
This year has "real" guages (as real as Ford junk guages are, that is).

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 22:44:53 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - hard starting

At 10:38 06/05/99 -0700, you wrote:
>A: If you switch to a high flow Non-aerobic Catalytic converter, you
>won't need the air pump, and your motor will run cleaner and use less
>gas (which is why the newer vehicles don't need an air pump)
>
Where does one get such a beast? Brand name? Cost?

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 01:30:17 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Intake snorkle

>Did you buy it used? Perhaps the previous owner made the modification...?
>

Yes I did. He very well could have changed it. He changed about everything
else.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
See my new site dedicated to preserving the Big Muskie,
the largest moving land machine on earth!
....


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