80-96-list-digest Sunday, May 2 1999 Volume 03 : Number 123



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 80-96 - truck won't start
FTE 80-96 - Proper use of OD
Re: FTE 80-96 - Disabling the Smog Pump
Re: FTE 80-96 - A similar note to kingpins......
FTE 80-96 - engine
FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start
RE: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start
FTE 80-96 - RE: Sagging door
Re: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Sagging door
FTE 80-96 - transmission sticking on 84 full size bronco
FTE 80-96 - E4OD & transfere case for sale
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Sagging door
FTE 80-96 - EGR(Emissions)
Re: FTE 80-96 - E4OD & transfere case for sale
Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR(Emissions)
Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR(Emissions)
FTE 80-96 - Re: Smog Pump
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Sagging door

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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 07:35:06 -0500
From: "Chuck"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - truck won't start

fire. The fuel relay has
> voltage. the inertia switch has voltage. the the fuel tanks
> switch has voltage to and through it. I can not hear the fuel
> pump working when you first turn on the ignition switch,


I have the same problem from time to time, are you supposed to hear the fuel
tanks come on prior to starting?

Chuck
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ionet.net/~dtra

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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 07:35:07 -0500
From: "Chuck"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Proper use of OD

What is the right way to operate the overdrive on an E4OD trans?

Chuck
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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 10:31:32 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Disabling the Smog Pump

Jim Cannon wrote:
>
> The computer will never know. But, you will not see any significant
> increase in power or milage. These air pumps draw little power.
>
> At 19:56 30/04/99 -0700, you wrote:
> >Have a '96 F150 with a California version 4.9 I6 and would like to pose a
> hypothetical
> >question. If I were to get stranded with a broken belt and could only find
> a smaller
> >belt. Which just so happens to bypass the smog pump. Would the disabling
> of the smog
> >pump affect the computer and produce error codes? --

Yeah, I doubt the computer would know, now would your backside from the
extra power or milage. But the cataclysmic perverter might. It expects a
certain amount of oxygen along with unburned fuel. If it doesn't get
enough O2, then the CO and HC emmissions will stay in the cat, or get
blown out. So, it might be a good idea to change the belt to the proper
one as soon as possible.

Or just carry a spare belt ;-)
- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 10:54:45 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - A similar note to kingpins......

Dave Harmier wrote:
>
> Just wondering....is it at all possible to transplant the I-Beams and
> radius rods out of a late model truck with ball joints, into an early
> Kingpin equipped truck????
>
Well, I didn't do that swap. A bit spendy right now. Anyway. I went out
to have a look at the situation some more. Jacked up the driver's side,
removed the wheel and took off the kingpin cap. Don't know what I was
looking for, but I did see a lot of grease :-). Oh, well. Put the cap
back in place and tighten it down. Wheel back on, truck down, repeat on
the passenger side. Looks the same (dark and greasy ;-). Put the cap
back on, one crank on the wrench, two cranks on the ....WHOOOOOPS! The
cap broke. The top of it came off with the threads still in the knuckle.
And I handn't even started yanking on that wrench.

I described the situation to myself. It went something like this:
"&*($## ^&*%# %#&*&%# *^$#( # %#(^%# !!!!!!!!!!!!", maybe a bit
longer.

Went to the autoparts store kitty corner. Closed. :-( It is after work,
after all. Went inside. Called Canadian Tire. They open nice and early,
I can drop it off there before work and they'll give me a ride up. They
call me at about ten the next morning "The Cap is broken" (well duh!).
$10.00 for the cap from the dealer, one hour of labour $55.00/hr. Tax.
Seventy-something-dollars. Oh well. They cleaned the old grease out of
the kingpins, put some anti-seize on them, greased them up good.

The only bad part is that Canadian Tire Money isn't issued on labour.
But it drives straight. It steers without complaining. Heck, even the
steering wheel returns after a turn!

- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 08:10:02 PDT
From: 2insane excite.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - engine

Well i went and bought some Total fuel injector and carb cleaner and put it
in with a full tank of gas. Amazingly it seems to have worked. My engine
does seem smoother and my rougher than rough idle left. the clicking i had
when accerelerating has died down too.(valves cleaner now maybe) It seemed
my engine started quicker too, but that could have been just that it was
warm. For only $2.00 i'm pleased with it, unless all this is just wishful
thinking.
Did the gas boycott work at any of the places u live? It didn't work here,
but I saw lot's of people still getting gas anyway. well, a good, but
unlogical, idea hasn't worked. At least i don't live in california with
$1.60/gallon they have.

DK




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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 80 18:10:12 PST
From: "Don Williams"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start

The manual by Haynes '80-'91 for Ford P- U's, F-150 ect. says your are =
supposed to be able to hear the fuel pump running for the first second =
or two , when yoy first turn the ignition switch.Dom Williams

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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 15:25:43 -0500
From: "Chuck"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start

does this apply to a '92 F150

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Don Williams
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 1980 8:10 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start
>
>
> The manual by Haynes '80-'91 for Ford P- U's, F-150 ect. says
> your are supposed to be able to hear the fuel pump running for
> the first second or two , when yoy first turn the ignition
> switch.Dom Williams
>
>
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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 15:13:00 -0500
From: Geoffrey Schrag
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Sagging door

Hey guys,

-Looks like I need to replace the upper door hinge on the drivers side
on my Bronco. It makes a popping noise when you open the door then the
door sags and has to be lifted back up into position to shut it right. Do
you think I can work with this hinge or should I just replace it??

Thanks again,

Geof Schrag
1980 Bronco
351M, 4sp

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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 13:35:42 -0700
From: "Mike"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start

Not sure about 92 but here are some basics.

Most electric pump have some type of switch or sensor to cut in and out at a
specified pressure. (Example on at 30 psi off at 45psi.) If the truck is not
running the pressure drops. You turn the key on and the pump runs.

Some vehicles are set up to activate the fuel pump in the start and run
cycle only. Just turning the key will not make the pump run (EEC controlled)

There may also a inertia switch in the system.That opens the power
circuit to the fuel pump in case of collision. If this is faulty it will
cause a no start problem due to fuel.

Hope this helps and does not confuse matters......Mike

- -----Original Message-----
From: Chuck
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Saturday, May 01, 1999 12:27 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start


>does this apply to a '92 F150
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>> [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Don Williams
>> Sent: Friday, January 04, 1980 8:10 PM
>> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start
>>
>>
>> The manual by Haynes '80-'91 for Ford P- U's, F-150 ect. says
>> your are supposed to be able to hear the fuel pump running for
>> the first second or two , when yoy first turn the ignition
>> switch.Dom Williams
>>
>>
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>


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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 18:35:46 -0400
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Sagging door

Many of the Pep Boys or Auto Zone type places have kits for repairing
the existing hinges in later Ford trucks. I don't know if they go back
to 1980, though. I haven't tried them yet, but I will need to soon.

Steve


Geoffrey Schrag wrote:
>
> Hey guys,
>
> -Looks like I need to replace the upper door hinge on the drivers side
> on my Bronco. It makes a popping noise when you open the door then the
> door sags and has to be lifted back up into position to shut it right. Do
> you think I can work with this hinge or should I just replace it??
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Geof Schrag
> 1980 Bronco
> 351M, 4sp
>
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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 16:19:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: bill jiminez
Subject: FTE 80-96 - transmission sticking on 84 full size bronco

Sorry to bother all of you on a weekend, but I kind of got my self
stuck between a rock and a hardspot today. About five days ago I put
my 4 speed manual transmission in reverse to back out of the driveway,
well that went fine, but when I tried to shift out of reverse I
couldn't do it. The clutch would disengage when the clutch pedal was
pushed but the transmission would not budge out of reverse. Well after
about five minutes of sitting there fighting with the gear shifter it
finally decided to release out of reverse and I could drive fine from
that point on. For the last couple of days I haven't had any problems,
I could go into and out of reverse. Well today I was out wheeling in
the mud, decided to take on a deep mud pit, and it actually got a
little too deep to continue, so I poppped it into reverse and gunned
the gas and backed out of the mud pit. Well the transmission decided
to lock up on me again, could not get it out of reverse. Spent 30
minutes punching and fighting with the gear shifter until I realized I
wasn't going to win, so I went ahead and started backing down the five
miles it took me to get to the mud bog to begin with. The entire time
I kept trying to get it to release out of reverse, even matching RPM's
and it still wouldn't go.. Well to make a long story short, I realizd
that this lockup in reverse occurssnormally when there is a lot of
torque on th tranny, so I went ahead and put it in four high, gunned it
as hard as possible going backwords, and believe it or not it finally
let me out of reverse.. My question is what could be causing this??
Thanks for any answers in advance..
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 18:50:45 -0500
From: "Steve Hansen"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E4OD & transfere case for sale

A friend of mine stripped a 4wd bronco and has a working trans and transfer
case to sell. It would be probally under 500 for the set if anyone is
interested. We are in North Dakota
E-mail me if interested, won't be able to reply for several days.
shansen minot.com

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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 23:25:17 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Sagging door

Geoffrey Schrag wrote:
>
> Hey guys,
>
> -Looks like I need to replace the upper door hinge on the drivers side
> on my Bronco. It makes a popping noise when you open the door then the
> door sags and has to be lifted back up into position to shut it right. Do
> you think I can work with this hinge or should I just replace it??
>
I havn't done it, but I did look into doing it with my car (but the
FredFlintstoneness of the floor panels made me postpone that forever). A
shop will charge about $100.00 to fix it. Mostly labour. These hinges
_should_ have bushings in them, you just replace them. I think they were
about Cdn$20.00 for a non-Ford. It's been a while.
- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 22:39:35 -0500
From: "Joel Thomas"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - EGR(Emissions)

can someone please explain to me the steps i should go through in taking
off all my EGR stuff,it doesn't work anyway(the smog pump is frozen so I
through it away) and I am wanting to go to a aftermarket Edelbrock intake
and Holley carb, really i just want to clean all the vacuum hoses up.
what I though i should do was trace my heater vacuum and mark it and then
trace my charcoal canister vacuum and mark it and take everything else of
is this right???
it is a
1984
F-150
351W
2-barrel
stock intake and carb
took smog pump and air conditioning off
by the way it is an off-road use only truck
and we don't have emission checks in arkansas anyway.

thanks
mailto:treefort prodigy.net






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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 21:37:44 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E4OD & transfere case for sale

How many miles are on it and is the tranny a big-block or small block bolt
pattern?
Thanks.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Hansen
To: 80-96-list
Date: Saturday, May 01, 1999 4:51 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E4OD & transfere case for sale


>A friend of mine stripped a 4wd bronco and has a working trans and transfer
>case to sell. It would be probally under 500 for the set if anyone is
>interested. We are in North Dakota
>E-mail me if interested, won't be able to reply for several days.
>shansen minot.com
>
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>

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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 21:34:04 -0700
From: "Mike"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR(Emissions)

Ya know. I don't know why ford spent multi million if not a billion of
dollars designing the system that you have. But you might think about this
before you make changes to your system....Mike


- -----Original Message-----
From: Joel Thomas
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Saturday, May 01, 1999 8:40 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - EGR(Emissions)


>can someone please explain to me the steps i should go through in taking
>off all my EGR stuff,it doesn't work anyway(the smog pump is frozen so I
>through it away) and I am wanting to go to a aftermarket Edelbrock intake
>and Holley carb, really i just want to clean all the vacuum hoses up.
>what I though i should do was trace my heater vacuum and mark it and then
>trace my charcoal canister vacuum and mark it and take everything else of
>is this right???
>it is a
>1984
>F-150
>351W
>2-barrel
>stock intake and carb
>took smog pump and air conditioning off
>by the way it is an off-road use only truck
>and we don't have emission checks in arkansas anyway.
>
>thanks
>mailto:treefort prodigy.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>

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Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 01:10:44 -0400
From: "Steve"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR(Emissions)

Ok, I'm just finishing up my '82 351W. You need a vacuum line to your
transmission, one for cruise control, one for the purge valve in your
charcoal canister, one for the vacuum advance on your distributor, one for
your heater system, one for the PCV system, and one for the brake booster.
You end up loosing the hoses associated with the EGR valve and with the
purge controls for the air pump. Make sure you block off the passages to
the head from the air pump. Also block up the vacuum sources so you don't
get a leak! If you go to the performer you won't need the EGR plate,
although you may want to get about a 1" carb spacer.

Good luck!!

Steve

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Joel Thomas
To:
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 1999 11:39 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - EGR(Emissions)


> can someone please explain to me the steps i should go through in taking
> off all my EGR stuff,it doesn't work anyway(the smog pump is frozen so I
> through it away) and I am wanting to go to a aftermarket Edelbrock intake
> and Holley carb, really i just want to clean all the vacuum hoses up.
> what I though i should do was trace my heater vacuum and mark it and then
> trace my charcoal canister vacuum and mark it and take everything else of
> is this right???
> it is a
> 1984
> F-150
> 351W
> 2-barrel
> stock intake and carb
> took smog pump and air conditioning off
> by the way it is an off-road use only truck
> and we don't have emission checks in arkansas anyway.
>
> thanks
> mailto:treefort prodigy.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 22:56:39 -0700
From: "Mark Behling"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Smog Pump

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 22:40:43 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Disabling the Smog Pump

>The computer will never know. But, you will not see any significant
>increase in power or mileage. These air pumps draw little power.


Thanks for the response, but it was my impression that these pumps take away 5HP. The
49state 4.9 I6 produces 150hp 3400 rpm, where the California model only has 145hp
3400 rpm. The only difference I can see between the two is the smog pump. Otherwise
they must be using a different cam on the Cali model causing the loss.

Mark

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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 01:06:23 -0500
From: Matthew Banevich
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Sagging door

Geoffrey Schrag wrote:
>
> Hey guys,....


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