80-96-list-digest Thursday, April 29 1999 Volume 03 : Number 120



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Re: Clunk from Reverse to Forward
RE: FTE 80-96 - 302 HO
RE: FTE 80-96 - Strong idle
RE: FTE 80-96 - Cleaning Up and Engines
FTE 80-96 - RE: Radiator/grill screen/blanket
FTE 80-96 - Re: 1989 F250
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radiator/grill screen/blanket
Re: FTE 80-96 - oil guage woes
[none]
FTE 80-96 - RE: Gauges
FTE 80-96 - Code Reader Info
FTE 80-96 - Re:
FTE 80-96 - Re: Mean Popping Sound
FTE 80-96 - Re:
Re: FTE 80-96 - Code Reader Info
Re: FTE 80-96 - Code Reader Info
Re: FTE 80-96 - 85 F-150 Auto Trans Stutters Uphill
Re: FTE 80-96 - Cleaning Up and Engines
FTE 80-96 - Pulleys and A/C

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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 07:01:15 -0400
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Clunk from Reverse to Forward

Cal,

>From the end of the tranny? Could be the dreaded Ford slip yoke flopping
around on the trans end splines.

Good luck
mike baker
85 Styleside 4x4

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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 08:56:17 -0500
From: "Kevin Reed"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 302 HO

before you turn her over, pull out the spark plugs and crank! Crank for 10
sec. at a time, 5 or 6 times. This will make it so there is no compression,
at the same time as priming the oil system. Then you should be fine.



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Moe Gendron
> Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 1:47 AM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - 302 HO
>
>
> Hey ford gurus,
>
> Well I'm down to the radiator and transmission lines on my 300/6
> to 302HO swap, 85 f 150.
> My truck books do not mention HO specs. The motor is for a 95 Mustang GT,
> DurasparkII, with Hi-Energy standalone ignition system that ford sells.
> bought it in a crate from ford, it has never been started, any startup
> tips?
>
> I don't know the following:
>
> Ignition timing,
> Firing order,
> Idle speed,
> Rev limits,
>
> My guess is she'll run out of breath at 6000rpm or before.
>
> I would like to start her up this weekend, Its been a long road I don't
> want to go down again, but fun, beer and rock n roll workin on that
> truck....well maybe I'll do it again......
>
> Thanks,
> Moe
> Houston
>
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>

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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 09:07:09 -0500
From: "Kevin Reed"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Strong idle

If you want to adjust your idle, unplug your idle control motor. This will
give the computer no control over the idle. Get it as close to the proper
idle (I don't have the specs). This will make the idle control motor not
have to work as much, and last longer. I disassembled and reassembled my
throttle body, and it made a big difference.

Try testing the volts coming from the TPS with the ignition key turned to
the on position, engine not running. I think the haynes manual forgets to
tell you this.

A tach is very easy to hook up. All the wires you need are plugged into
your instrument cluster, and they go nowhere! Get a wiring schematic to
find out which wires are which (I don't have one here). You should pay
between $50 and $250, depending on the quality and the brand name, for a
tachometer. (One doesn't necessarily mean the other!). Stay away from
digital tach's, their crap!



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Chris Philipp
> Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 9:42 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Strong idle
>
>
> Recently, I removed and cleaned my throttle body (88'
> 302). While at it I replaced my TPS. Now the Chiltons
> only said to scribe the spots, and install with the
> "tangs" clockwise. Haynes of course went through a
> long/detailed way to check voltage, etc. Anyway, I was
> unable to get any reading from the TPS (trying the Haynes
> way), so I just replaced the new TPS off of the scribe
> mark. I tried to stick some pins in the insulation to
> check the TPS voltage, and had no luck at all. Now my
> truck runs outstanding, except it does appear to have an
> increased idle. The idle adjust screw has no slot (for a
> screwdriver that is), and appears to reinforce the notion
> "do not attempt to adjust your idle screw". My question,
> along with the voltmeter part is this. How long should
> the computer take to adjust to the work I did (I find now
> regular unleaded is plenty), and what is the approx rpm's
> for idle speed? P.S., I have not even checked out
> aftermarket tach's, how much $, and how much of a pain in
> the a#* will it be to install. TIA Chris
>
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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:20:19 -0500
From: "Baldwin, Dave (CPCP Design)"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Cleaning Up and Engines

> -----Original Message-----
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Cleaning Up and Engines
>
> I was wondering if any of you had any good experiences with
> additives like fuel injector cleaner and oil additives to help clean out
an
> engine. do they really work or is it just a scam?

Well, I've got a story about this: I bought a used vehicle (wasn't a Ford,
but all have the same problems when not properly maintained) which had solid
lifters. When I took the valve cover off, everything inside was so coated
with sludge that I felt compelled to use an engine oil additive to clean it
up some. The result of this was that a lot of that guck broke loose, and
got pumped up through the engine (filter may have clogged-then bypassed).
The valve train got very noisy and i found that the oil passage to the
rocker shaft which oils the rockers, valves, pushrods and lifters had
clogged up, and my valve gear had run dry.

Bottom line (at least for me): if it's clean inside, and you've got noisy
hydraulic lifters, it might work. If it's a total sludge pit, you're better
off leaving well enough alone (or do a complete rebuild)!

Regards,
Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 12:57:54 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Radiator/grill screen/blanket

>>I am trying to find one of those grill blanket/screen setups (I think
they
>>are quilted) for my 90 F250...Any info would appreciated

Any catalog shop or truck accessory store should carry these, but have
you seen how much they cost? For the same money, I'd buy something else
for my truck and stuff the box it comes in behind the grille! The
quilted grille covers are really only meant to keep diesels happy when
it's really really cold, and the Powerstroke diesel I drive at work has
never had a problem with overcooling, even on subzero days. I only use a
grill cover to stop ice from building up on my radiator, and cardboard
(or tacky-back contact paper stretched over the grille, if you want to
get fancy) works well enough for that. Just my opinion, of course.

lordjanusz juno.com
'94 F150 300ci
'97 E-SuperDuty minibus 7.3L PSD

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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 11:19:39 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 1989 F250

On Mon, 26 Apr 1999, "Dennis R. Fischer" wrote:
>
> F150 = 1/2 ton model
> F250 = 3/4 ton model
> F350 = 1 ton model

I believe saying "1/2 ton" and "1 ton" to describe anything any more is
no longer correct. My F-250 came with a piece of paper saying it was OK
to carry 3000 lbs in the bed so long as it was balanced right. Even my
'66 F-250 has more GVWR than what adds up to 1500 lbs.

I think that F-150, etc. is just a way of saying "this truck will haul
more than that one."

Birken
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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 15:39:38 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radiator/grill screen/blanket

i swear i saw one in the Ebay ads within the last few days go check
WWW.ebay.com under Miscellaneous, Automotive Parts or Accessories
Bob
ROlson1039 aol.com
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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 13:48:46 PDT
From: "Jim Kudulis"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - oil guage woes

Man I think your asking for trouble sleeping in a running truck with a gas
engine.
I lost an uncle who did the same thing during deer hunting.
Jim

On Tue, 27 Apr 1999 09:00:05 -0400, Andre Roy wrote:

> Victor L Moran wrote:
> > My '87 aerostar
>
>
> > I bought the van about 9 months ago and the oil pressure was
very
> > low to begin with. ........
> > Turned out that the oil sending unit was broken. Replaced
>
> > it. Gauge now flying very high. Perhaps too high.
> > 3 months ago I was driving from Buffalo to New York and the car
> > had been on and running for about 7 hours at 65 and had been idling for
> > about 5 more hours (while I slept). The pressure gauge dropped to 0
while
> > I was doing 65! I put it in neutral and coasted onto the shoulder.
Just
> > before I was going to turn off the engine, the oil pressure returned.
> > I let the engine cool off for a few minutes then restarted and
> > kept driving. No more oil problems. When I got to my friends garage,
he
> > told me that the problem was the oil was getting 'stuck on top of the
> > engine', therefore there was no oil in the pan to pump and the pressure
> > dropped. He put a 3 dollar bottle of a cleaner into it and then
changed
> > the oil and the pressure was flying high again.
> >
> [more weirdness]
>
>
> > A mechanic told me that perhaps the oil pump's filter is
clogged
> > but I wanted to get ideas from the people on this list first. Any
idea's?
> >
> Could be junk in the oil pan. Especially after some "magic elixer" is
> added and loosened it up. Could also be that the oil is not returning to
> the pan, but that would tend to be more consistant and generally only
> occur after extended high engine speeds (how extended and how high would
> depend on the severity of the blockage).
>
> Could also be an electrical problem with the oil sender/guage system.
> Try a mechanical gauge (just tape it to the outside of the windshield,
> it's only temporary) If it seems normal, start tracing wiring, if it
> agrees with the electric gauge, then it's time to bite the bullet and
> track down the oiling problem.
>
> Start by getting the engine good and warmed up, immediately drain the
> oil (hot hot hot!) If you get lumps, it time for a wrench. If not, time
> to keep searching.
>
> Could be the pressure relief valve, too. How's the oil filter?
> --
> Andre
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 15:19:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: bill jiminez
Subject: [none]

I have posted here a couple of times and got a lot of good answers
back, and wanted to thank y'all. Recently I have had a problem with my
Bronco's gas, oil pressure, and temperature gauge all going haywire at
once and going as far right as possible. I have noticed that if I
alter the amount of volts going through the electrical system, for
example turn on the headlights, when this is happening all the gauges
will return to normal again. This is happening more and more rapidly
now. It definateley sounds like an electrical problem, but I do not
know where to start. The alternator is brand new along with the
voltage regulator, and both checked out fine on a diags machine. Any
answers would be greatly appreciated, this is one of those problems
that can drive you nuts, its not a good feeling to see your temp gauge
oil pressure gauge and gas gauge all at their max positions, even
though all are OK..

Thanks,

Bill Jiminez

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 16:26:49 -0600
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Gauges

It is your instrument panel voltage regulator located behind the panel. It
may have damaged your gauges by now.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: bill jiminez [mailto:dunsmuirboy yahoo.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 3:20 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:
>
>
> I have posted here a couple of times and got a lot of good answers
> back, and wanted to thank y'all. Recently I have had a
> problem with my
> Bronco's gas, oil pressure, and temperature gauge all going haywire at
> once and going as far right as possible. I have noticed that if I
> alter the amount of volts going through the electrical system, for
> example turn on the headlights, when this is happening all the gauges
> will return to normal again. This is happening more and more rapidly
> now. It definateley sounds like an electrical problem, but I do not
> know where to start. The alternator is brand new along with the
> voltage regulator, and both checked out fine on a diags machine. Any
> answers would be greatly appreciated, this is one of those problems
> that can drive you nuts, its not a good feeling to see your temp gauge
> oil pressure gauge and gas gauge all at their max positions, even
> though all are OK..
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Jiminez
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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 15:35:52 -0700
From: "Gerald L. Hinkle Jr. CPA"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Code Reader Info

Hello again list people. I am interested in buying a code reader for my
truck. Does anyone have a recomendation on brand, type etc? Can these
code readers be purchased at local auto supply stores? Also, does the code
reader come with the necessary code reference listing or descriptions or
would I obtain them elsewhere? Is there a way to read the computers stored
codes without a code reader? Any opinions or suggestions are greatly
appreciated.

Jerry Hinkle Jr. CPA
"RULEMAKER" 94 F-350 Crew Cab 4x4
"LTS-ROK" 80 JEEP CJ-5

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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 15:52:31 -0700
From: "Mike"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:

Check with Ford Parts to see if they show a CVR (constant voltage regulator)
unit for your Bronco. This unit was attached to the back of the dash panel,
back in the old days.....Mike


- -----Original Message-----
From: bill jiminez
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 3:19 PM


>I have posted here a couple of times and got a lot of good answers
>back, and wanted to thank y'all. Recently I have had a problem with my
>Bronco's gas, oil pressure, and temperature gauge all going haywire at
>once and going as far right as possible. I have noticed that if I
>alter the amount of volts going through the electrical system, for
>example turn on the headlights, when this is happening all the gauges
>will return to normal again. This is happening more and more rapidly
>now. It definateley sounds like an electrical problem, but I do not
>know where to start. The alternator is brand new along with the
>voltage regulator, and both checked out fine on a diags machine. Any
>answers would be greatly appreciated, this is one of those problems
>that can drive you nuts, its not a good feeling to see your temp gauge
>oil pressure gauge and gas gauge all at their max positions, even
>though all are OK..
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bill Jiminez
>
>_________________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
> >
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 11:30:24 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Mean Popping Sound

On Sun, 25 Apr 1999, WoodStck45 aol.com wrote:
>
> I have 1991 Ford F-250 HD pickup. I get a real bad popping sound when the
> truck gets in a bind or when going over alot of bumps (like in a fresh chisel
> plowed field). It has gotten worse over time and now it is starting to pop
> all the time when i hit a bump. It is definatly coming from up front, but i
> am not sure where. I have all new shocks, u-joints, ball joints, ball joint
> bushings, and tie rod bushings. Could it be the bushings on that junk
> independent front axle i have? Or could it be a sway bar or a leaf spring.
> I took some white lithium grease in an aerosol can and sprayed the spring
> bushings, sway bar bushings, in between the leaf springs theirselves, and the
> bushings on the independent front axle. It didn't help one bit. Have any of
> you guys had this problem or maybe no what it is? Could this be a motor
> mount? I doubt it is cause the motor never moves if you rev it up or toque
> it. Any comments, suggestions, or answers will be greatly appreciated. This
> pop is driving me in sain.

Somebody was mentioning brakes so I thought I might throw this one in:
on my F-250 HD I have the dual piston calipers on the front that are
held in by metal pins with rubber centers. On the passenger side they
had rotted and lost their tension and were making all sorts of noise. I
replaced them and all was well.

> P.S. The next truck is gonna be a one ton

You're really gonna have a fun time in a plowed field then! Mine is bad
enough on the highways that I don't even want to take it off road. Then
again, the highways around here probably resemble a plowed field...

Seriously, when I get my truck torqued up it bangs and clunks, too,
though from behind the cab. I think the bed is making contact with the
cab.

Birken


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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:48:11 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:

bill jiminez wrote:
>
> I have posted here a couple of times and got a lot of good answers
> back, and wanted to thank y'all. Recently I have had a problem with my
> Bronco's gas, oil pressure, and temperature gauge all going haywire at
> once and going as far right as possible.
>
There used to be a separate voltage regulator for the dashboard. My bet
is that your truck has one, and it's on its' last legs. The Intrument
panel VR is a little can that works a lot like a christmas tree flasher.
It just turns on and off rapidly, so that the _average_ voltage is about
5 Volts. Peaks at 12, dips to 0. Actually, it works more like a vibrator
on an old tube type car radio, come to think of it.

> I have noticed that if I
> alter the amount of volts going through the electrical system, for
> example turn on the headlights, when this is happening all the gauges
> will return to normal again.
>
Another possiblity is a bad ground somewhere, try pounding on the dash
next time it happens (really, sometimes vibration _does_ help! ;-), if
that fixes it temporarily, it might be the ground, then again, you might
have just whacked the VR back into operation.


> This is happening more and more rapidly
> now. It definateley sounds like an electrical problem,
>
It is.

> The alternator is brand new along with the
> voltage regulator, and both checked out fine on a diags machine.
>
I doubt it's either of them. The Voltage Regulator here is to supply 12+
V to the car, the VR in the dash is to supply ~5V to the panel.
Different VRs.

- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:54:58 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Code Reader Info

"Gerald L. Hinkle Jr. CPA" wrote:
>
> Can these
> code readers be purchased at local auto supply stores?
>
Yes, but don't ask me a price because my Ford Truck doesn't have a
computer and my car is a Mopar and they don't need (no steeenking) code
readers. ;-)

> Also, does the code
> reader come with the necessary code reference listing or descriptions or
> would I obtain them elsewhere?
>
Best place for all information pertaining to your truck is the Factory
Service Manual (says the guy who hasn't bought his yet :-/ )


> Is there a way to read the computers stored
> codes without a code reader?

Try these for a start.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3eeccodes2.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3eeccodes3.html


- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:00:31 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Code Reader Info

you can also try Damark catalogus they got one with the boof for like $29
Bob
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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:27:23 -0400
From: "john labriola"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 85 F-150 Auto Trans Stutters Uphill

russ, i have ethe same problem and i think it is the tranny filter. mine
looked different from the one i changed it with, but everything matched up.
the design of it must have thrown the way the fluid flows through it
differently. i think, that if i go to a different type filter it will be
fine. the reason why i changed the filter and fluid was because the truck
had 160,000 miles on her, and i didn't know when the last time it was
changed. i had just bought it, 1 year ago.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: russ beebe
To: Ford Trucks List
Sent: Monday, April 26, 1999 1:32 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 85 F-150 Auto Trans Stutters Uphill


> My 'new' 85 F-150 351W, 128K mi, auto transmission occasionally slips in
> and out of low gear when going slowly up steep hills, especially when
> cold. My driveway's on a hill and when I back out then try going up,
> sometimes the tranny doesn't engage for about 15-30 seconds, like it's
> still in neutral, but then it kicks into first. Coming up that hill the
> other day slowly with a warm engine it skipped in and out of low gear. I
> just had the transmission fluid changed, and it's full according to the
> dipstick.
>
> Any ideas from you experts out there? Thanks!
>
> --Russ
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>

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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:43:42 -0400
From: "john labriola"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Cleaning Up and Engines

the 302 is not a torque motor but nor is 351w. I have built both and run
both. the 302 is great for getting around, but the 351w has a little more
torque, depends on what you want to do. I have run fuel injector cleaner in
my little 302 and it has made a lot of difference. i too was apprehensive.
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 7:48 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Cleaning Up and Engines


> I was wondering if any of you had any good experiences with additives like
> fuel injector cleaner and oil additives to help clean out an engine. do
they
> really work or is it just a scam?
> my next question is about engines. i have a stock 302 right now but am
> looking for more power, a 351 probably, but am wondering if this is not a
> good switch because i seem to remember on this list of a suggestion to go
> from a 351 to a 302. Or should I just get some aftermarket products.
thanks
> for any and all replys.
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 02:10:29 -0400
From: "Steve"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Pulleys and A/C....

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