80-96-list-digest Tuesday, April 27 1999 Volume 03 : Number 118



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Bjornar's truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - stake bed
FTE 80-96 - RE: vacuum
FTE 80-96 - Engine miss
RE: FTE 80-96 - Engine miss
Re: FTE 80-96 - 85 F-150 Auto Trans Stutters Uphill
Re: [FTE 80-96 - RE: vacuum]
FTE 80-96 - Off topic I KNOW, but....
Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunk from Reverse to Forward
FTE 80-96 - '86 302 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
Re: FTE 80-96 - Mean Popping Sound
Re: FTE 80-96 - I know we covered this once before but...
Re: FTE 80-96 - Off topic I KNOW, but....
FTE 80-96 - 1989 F250
FTE 80-96 - Fuel sender
Re: FTE 80-96 - Off topic I KNOW, but....
Re: FTE 80-96 - v-8 Throttle body on straight 6?
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1989 F250
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sender
FTE 80-96 - Fuel sender problem delux
Re: FTE 80-96 - New list member & a tranny problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sender problem delux
FTE 80-96 - New Carb for 85 Ranger
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Pigeon Forge Show, Information
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1989 F250
FTE 80-96 - More useless service people
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sender
FTE 80-96 - Looking for 92-96 interior parts
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sender
RE: FTE 80-96 - Mean Popping Sound
Re: FTE 80-96 - v-8 Throttle body on straight 6?
FTE 80-96 - oil guage woes
Re: FTE 80-96 - oil guage woes
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sender
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sender problem delux
Re: [Re: [FTE 80-96 - RE: vacuum]]

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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 09:31:24 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Bjornar's truck

>>Bjornar Huse
>>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://bryggen.bgnett.no/~bjornar
>>1 Son, 3 yrs
>>1 Groenendael, 4 yrs
>>1 1990 Ford E-250 Club Wagon 7.3 diesel, 3.54, E4OD
>>1 1994 Ford Escort 1.3
>>1 1947 Studebaker M-15 A-28 dump truck
>>Oh, yes, one 1971 wife, too!

Cool! A Studebaker! At the time your truck was built, both my
grandfather and his father worked in the Stude plant in South Bend,
Indiana. My father now directs the Studebaker National Museum there
(it's worth stopping by if you're in the area). FTE content: the
Museum's shop truck/vehicle hauler is an F350 CC DRW. Even Studebaker
guys love Ford trucks!

lordjanusz juno.com
'94 F150
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Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 11:44:27 -0400
From: Chris Hedemark
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - stake bed

Scottie Schmidt wrote:

> Now I will update you. My grandfather
> who owns the 12 acre farm, has his car on the market for about $14000,
> and is going to buy a truck when he sells his car! He is planning on
> spending know more than $12500.

He should be able to get a really nice truck if he is running gas. If
he is running diesel, that may cut some of the better trucks out of the
running since they are more valuable.

> My dad who was interested in snow
> plowing, still is, but is not quite in the position to buy a truck,
> but we are still keeping our eyes open for one. Now for who needs
> what. My grandfather needs a good farm truck, it has to be 4x4 and
> with low miles, and most likely a 150. My dad wants a 250 4x4, under
> $5000.

Your dad can get into a truck, certainly, but depending on the market in
your area he is fishing in the bottom end of the market and will inherit
some "personality" with his truck (a nice way of saying "gremlins"). He
may luck out, but just trying to prepare him for a high likelihood of
having some minor problems.

> - How are the F350 stake beds for plowing?

They work fine. Actually I used to plow with a Jeep CJ7. F350 is just
shy of a municipal plowing vehicle by comparison. :-)

> I am talking
> about the ones with 6 wheels. Do they have such a one that is 6 wheel
> drive? On the 4 wheel drive trucks, do the 4 rear tires spin, or is
> it 2 in the front and 2 in the back?

In the "dually" trucks, the rear four tires are all on the same axle.
With a locking rear differential, all four rear tires get power on both
2 and 4 wheel drive models. On the four wheel drive model, both the
front and rear axles get power.

The names "two wheel drive" and "four wheel drive" are misleading. More
accurately, they should be called "one differential drive" and "two
differential drive" respectively. On a locking differential truck,
wheels on both sides of the same differential will get power. Without a
locking differential, only one wheel typically gets power.

For a plowing truck, I would say a locking rear differential is
MANDATORY. It also wouldn't hurt to put a heavy load on the bed during
plowing to counterbalance agains the plow. Put the weights BEHIND the
rear axle when the plow is on.

> - What are your thoughts on lift kits? My dad hauls alot
> of steel, will a lift kit help when hauling heavy loads? Or does it
> just make it higher for the looks? Basically what effect does it have
> on the suspension?

Lift kits are more engineered for ground clearance and off roading than
for utility work. Putting helper springs or airbags on the back without
a lift kit would be more appropriate. Also make sure the load range of
the tires is suitable for what he is doing.

> - What is the bed size for a 86-96 truck with an extended
> cab? Grandfather might be onterested in one!

The cab doesn't affect the bed size. I don't know the exact dimensions,
but between the wheelwells you can stack up 4x8 sheetrock with a little
room to spare. In front of and to the rear of the wheelwells there is
more room in the sides of the bed of course.

- --

Chris Hedemark
Ford Sleepers at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.yonderway.com/sleepers


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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 08:59:50 -0600
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: vacuum

My guess:
Your cruise is controlled by a vacuum diaphragm and the pulsing you are
seeing is the cruise control pulsing the control diaphragm. It works like a
PWM controller and constant speed is held by varying the amount of time
vacuum is applied. The fact you have the gauge tapped into the cruise
control line makes it sensitive to the cruise operation.

Larry



Date: 24 Apr 99 17:52:22 PDT
From: William Berninghausen
Subject: Re: [FTE 80-96 - RE: vacuum]

The 'tick' is a sharp fluctuation of 1 to 2 inches, like the pulse you wo=
uld
see if a valve is burned, but it doesn't seem to depend on any other fact=
ors
and only occurs in part-throttle cruise operation.

The vacuum gauge is T'd into the aftermarket cruise control line which co=
mes
directly from the 'tree' below the carb. The only devices in the vacuum =
lines
are the delay and check valve that Ford put there.

Help any?

Bill

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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 11:57:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: DBblueboy webtv.net (Jerome Kelly)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Engine miss

I have a low mileage 1987XLT. The 5.0 developed a miss. I took it to
the local
tuneup specialist lol. I got a sixtynine
dollar set of plugs. Almost forgot, one
plug was seized a little. They could not
handle it. I had to install it myself.

I took the truck home and the miss is still
there. I changed the wires, rotor cap and
button. I changed the fuel filter. Prior to
this I added an expensive system cleaner
to the fuel. Sometimes when I start the
engine it dies instantly. Other times the
idle will be at high rps. There are no engine lights on sugesting me to
check
any sensors.

The local yocal rippoff mechanics are
chalenged by a problem like this. It
could run close to a thousand dollars to
isolate the problem. The dealerships
mechanics will blow you off also. There
is a shortage of them.

Does anyone have a clue as to what could be wrong? It would be very
much appreciated.




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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 12:37:18 -0500
From: "Kevin Reed"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Engine miss

Check to make sure you have a good ground on the block. Try hooking jumper
cables from your negative terminal on your battery to your block. If that
corrects the problem go out and buy some ground straps.

You've covered a lot of the bases, so now you'll have to get in to the more
complicated stuff. Check the resistance of your Coil. I can't tell you
what it's supposed to be, but I'm sure someone here with a manual will (hint
hint!) Check the ignition module, once again someone should have the specs.
Check the magnetic pickup inside of the distributor.

One other possibility is a fouled up fuel injector; little or no gas can be
interpreted as a miss. You can check the resistance of the fuel injectors
and/or you can get a length of rubber hose, stick it to your injectors (one
by one) and listen to the other end of the hose for a pinging or ticking.
If there is no pinging or ticking, then further investigate that injector.
They are supposed to ping or tick.

Sorry I don't have a manual on hand. Hope this helps! Good Luck!

Kevin Reed


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Jerome Kelly
> Sent: Monday, April 26, 1999 10:58 AM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Engine miss
>
>
> I have a low mileage 1987XLT. The 5.0 developed a miss. I took it to
> the local
> tuneup specialist lol. I got a sixtynine
> dollar set of plugs. Almost forgot, one
> plug was seized a little. They could not
> handle it. I had to install it myself.
>
> I took the truck home and the miss is still
> there. I changed the wires, rotor cap and
> button. I changed the fuel filter. Prior to
> this I added an expensive system cleaner
> to the fuel. Sometimes when I start the
> engine it dies instantly. Other times the
> idle will be at high rps. There are no engine lights on sugesting me to
> check
> any sensors.
>
> The local yocal rippoff mechanics are
> chalenged by a problem like this. It
> could run close to a thousand dollars to
> isolate the problem. The dealerships
> mechanics will blow you off also. There
> is a shortage of them.
>
> Does anyone have a clue as to what could be wrong? It would be very
> much appreciated.
>
>
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 13:28:15 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 85 F-150 Auto Trans Stutters Uphill

In a message dated 4/26/99 1:36:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
rbeebe halcyon.com writes:


in
and out of low gear when going slowly up steep hills, especially when
cold. My driveway's on a hill and when I back out then try going up,
sometimes the tranny doesn't engage for about 15-30 seconds, like it's
still in neutral, but then it kicks into first. Coming up that hill the
other day slowly with a warm engine it skipped in and out of low gear. I
just had the transmission fluid changed, and it's full according to the
dipstick.

Any ideas from you experts out there? Thanks!
>>

Russ,
Well I hate to tell you, but its gonna cost ya! I had the same problem
happening with my AODE (I believe you have the C4 or AOD). I had to have the
torque convertor replaced. I hope this helps.
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
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Date: 26 Apr 99 10:35:59 PDT
From: William Berninghausen
Subject: Re: [FTE 80-96 - RE: vacuum]

"Smeins, Larry" wrote:
> My guess:
> Your cruise is controlled by a vacuum diaphragm and the pulsing you are=

> seeing is the cruise control pulsing the control diaphragm. It works l=
ike a
> PWM controller and constant speed is held by varying the amount of time=

> vacuum is applied. The fact you have the gauge tapped into the cruise
> control line makes it sensitive to the cruise operation.
> =

> Larry =

> =

*************************

OK, Larry, how about if I disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the crui=
se
control, since it doesn't work anyway--the speed sensor was knocked out o=
f
line during the tranny rebuild. Then the vacuum gauge will be isolated o=
n its
own line. I'll try it and let you know.

Bill

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webm=
ail.netscape.com.
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 13:34:01 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Off topic I KNOW, but....

Does anyone know of a WEALTH of Chevy information like this list????

Now for Ford content, I saw in a Popular Hot Rodding magazine, a stroker
kit to get a 302 up to 347 (gotta see a pretty big torque increase eh!)

Dave H.
Houston, TX
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 15:27:53 -0400
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunk from Reverse to Forward

U-joints, maybe rear end.

Matt


- -----Original Message-----
From: CalvinB
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, April 26, 1999 1:03 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Clunk from Reverse to Forward


>I have an 87 F150 300 straight 6 2x4 shortbox supercab. Runs great but
when
>I shift from reverse to 1st (I have a 3 speed overdrive) I sometime hear a
>clunk. If I accellerate slowly I sometimes do not hear the clunk right
>away, after I accellerate (let go of the gas) that is when I hear the
>clunk. I have had my motor mounts replaced already. Any suggestions?
>
>Cal.
>
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 99 13:35:25 -0800
From: todd trifilm.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '86 302 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

I replaced the Valve Cover Gaskets on my '87 Bronco w/ 302 EFI a couple of
weeks ago. I bought my gaskets first, the upper intake kit I bought in addition
to the V.C.G. (fel-pro) came with the upper to lower, throttle body to upper,
and egr gaskets. The V.C.G. had little anti-crush rings in the bolt holes to
help avoid overtightening. Aside from the obvious intake manifold overhang,
there is hard coolant line that travels over the forward edge of the passenger
side valve cover that I had to rotate out of the way (loosen) so I ended up
draining off some coolant, removing and reinstalling the fitting with new thread
sealant to avoid later leaks. I removed the upper intake and it's support bar
and flipped it back out of the way. I gave all of the usually unseen stuff like
the air injection fittings and it's check valve the once over. My check valve
rusted through at its base once before, loud burbly exhaust noise, it looked
alright but it was just sitting there held in place by the rubber hose. I had to
whump the V.C. with a rubber mallet to free it from the head, funny it was stuck
on good but still leaked. My V.C.s were straight, I scraped the heads and covers
clean and used the red spray permatex to tack the new gasket to the cover.
The driver side valve cover looked straight forward but I still had to remove
quite a bit of stuff. The coil bracket and wire harness, along with having to
move the ac compressor because of interference with the lip of the V.C. To move
my compressor I had to remove the serpentine belt. This can be done with a box
end wrench (15mm?) placed on the tensioner pulley bolt (left handed thread FYI)
and lifted and rotated toward the passenger side (hey, I've seen it asked
before), be careful the fan is a knuckle buster after there's no belt to stop
the tensioner downward travel, plan ahead with wrench placement. As an aside I
heard PPI, www.mustangparts.com, sells the tensioner pulley alone whereas Ford
only sells the tensioner assembly.
All in all an easy job, but give yourself alot of time because there are many
things to R&R, in addition to working in an awkward position, and you'll
probably find something to clean, fix, replace along the way.
I performed an oil change too and tried the PowerFlo (purolator) oil filter
after reading this website,
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html
The strange startup noise I had been hearing with the Fram filter in place went
away, maybe that cheesy anti-drainback valve, and the PowerFlo was cheaper too.

Have Fun, Todd M.
'68 Mustang convertible
'87 Bronco
others

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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 16:53:23 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Mean Popping Sound

sounds like the strut bar bushings to me mine does it too.
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 99 14:09:44 -0800
From: todd trifilm.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - I know we covered this once before but...

If you have to remove the rivets the easiest way I found is is to center punch,
then use a small sharp bit and drill to the depth of rivet head base or a little
deeper, then use a larger sharp bit, smaller than the rivet shaft diameter, to
the same depth. Now take your air chisel, or hand chisel and hammer, pop off the
hollow head of the rivet. Repeat on all the rivets. Now use the pointed
attachment of the air hammer, or a punch and hammer to drive out the remainder
of the rivet body. Leave the bolts in the the bracket while you work and you
have a better chance of removing the rivet from the frame and the bracket in one
operation and the bracket won't drop on your shin when you get that last rivet
out ;) Wear gloves and ear and eye protection, lube the bits, let the tools do
the work and it's easy. The Rancho lift I installed came with grade eight bolts,
hardened washers, and self-locking nuts( the slightly squished kind not
nylocks). I don't remember the size but I did redrill the frame and bracket
holes for the larger than the rivet, bolts. This was 5-6 years ago no problems
and I did install Energy Suspension radius arm poly at the time. No sqeaks,
tight, still looks new.

Have Fun,
Todd M.
'87 Bronco
'68 Mustang convertible
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 17:32:24 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Off topic I KNOW, but....

Dave,
There is actually a company that advertises in Muscle Mustang and Fast Ford ,
a Ford based magazine, not like that mag you mentioned which is mostly based
on Garbage Merchandise products, that has an EMISSIONS LEGAL 347 stroker kit.
But I have to say for the price..you could buy a decently built 351 Windsor
and have much better reliability. Many of my street racer buds have the 347
stroker motors in one form or another and either they wont drive them very
far or trailer the cars they are in, due to lack of daily driven reliability.
This may just be them being over cautious, but I myself wouldn't like to be
sitting somewhere in the middle of nowhere just cause I hit them hammer one
time to much and blew a gasket or worse.
My .02,
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
PS...I sucked up my first Stang Saturday night..his 5.0 was lightly built,
and he knew how to drive....just got him at the launch and took it all the
way out. At finish was half of a truck length up on him. Now I gotta get the
gears and stall convertor and I'm done. Then I'll be looking for the newer
Z28s.



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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 16:59:22 -0500
From: Andy Norris
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1989 F250

I'm the new owner of a 1989 F250 extended cab with a 351. I've never owned
a Ford before. I know that everyone on this list might be just a tad
biased, but I was wondering if anyone might give me a hint as to what I'm
in for. The rear gas tank doesn't work, but that's about the only 'major'
thing of which I'm aware just yet. The steering wheel is a little loose,
but I think I can handle tightening that down. Are there any problems
inherent in this particular model/year? Anything I should watch out
for/check over?

And, just to show that I really don't know what I'm getting myself into...
what are the differences between an F150/250/350? I've already had folks
ask me that question.

Thanks in advance!

Andy
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 18:22:29 -0500
From: "Steve Hansen"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sender

I think my sending unit in my 92-F250 went out. A few weeks ago when the
tank was near empty, it started going from empty to waaaay full. After
filling up it was ok. Today as the rear than got empty, I switched to the
front, and it showed empty.. Hmmm, I thought I had gas in there. went to
fill it, it was full. So it (seems to be) stuck. Anyone else had this or
changed it? Any advise?
Steve

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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 18:52:56 -0500
From: we_be_us
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Off topic I KNOW, but....

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.chevelles.com/cgi-bin/forum/Ultimate.cgi
..this is the tech
section...www.chevelles.com is the
main page...

Dave Harmier wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a WEALTH of Chevy information like this list????
>
> Now for Ford content, I saw in a Popular Hot Rodding magazine, a stroker
> kit to get a 302 up to 347 (gotta see a pretty big torque increase eh!)
>
> Dave H.
> Houston, TX
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

- --
__o
_`\ _>
(*) (*)
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 17:30:48 +0000
From: Erston Reisch
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - v-8 Throttle body on straight 6?

Cal/List,

Would there be a benefit to changing to a V8 Throttle body? I would
assume you'd want a larger one to increase air flow, right?

- - Erston ('90 F-150 XLT-L, 300ci, E4OD, 116.8")




"CalvinB" wrote:
>
> I have have one off a 5.0L and I have had no problems.
> >
> >I have a 89 Ford F-150 With the 4.9L straight 6. Would a throttle
> >body off of a 5.0 or 5.8 fit on the upper intake on my straight 6?
> >They both have dual inlets and the same connections.
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:27:18 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1989 F250

Congratulations on your purchase. I too am the owner of a 1989 F 250 with a
5.8, and i must tell you I LOVE my truck. Mine gets beat on regularly and
she takes it witout missing a beat.
Your rear tank might be not work cause the inner tank fuel pump may be out
you need to check out the thing and see if power is getting to it . I had
fuel problems and can tell you all kinds of tricks etc about the dual tank
system.
The only other problems i had was a bad EGR valve and sensor ontop of it..
and a small exhaust leak.. i also needed to replace the transmission , but
with the weight i put in my truck that was inevitable.
The only other horrible thing is the rear plug by the air conditioner thing
by the firewall.. you have to be a contortionist to get that plug in.
Best of luck with your truck and many happy miles!
Bob
ROlson1039 aol.com
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:31:57 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sender

Sounds to me like the float has a hole in it and it sinks. Im my truck with
NYC prices i paid $79 for the float assembly and the dealer gave me a new
lockdown ring too. the tank is held up by two straps and fell down easy
enough. there is a radiator hose type fuel inelt that comes off with a
regular screwdriver and an inner tube that sort of lays in there ( i ended up
throwing mine out but its easy enough to put back)The entire job took me
about an hour at work in between a thousand interruptions
Hope that helps
feel free to email me if you need more info
Regards
ROlson1039 aol.com
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:38:00 -0400
From: "Max W. Cottrell"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sender problem delux

My rear tank reads MAX full until it gets to 1/4 tank;
Then it reads normal.

When it gets around a 1/4 tank, and I'm going around
a LEFT turn, the gauge goes to it's true level. As it gets
closer to empty, the better it reads.

In other words;

Tank reads FULL all the time.

As the tank approaches 1/4 full, (and) going around a LEFT hand
corner, the needle drops intermittently.

Once the tank gets to 1/4 full, then it stays at the correct
reading.

Until it gets to 1/4 full, going around a RIGHT hand corner does NOT
affect the reading.


Max W. Cottrell


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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:46:37 -0400
From: "Max W. Cottrell"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New list member & a tranny problem

I've got the drive shaft, speedo cable, reverse switch and shifter off as
well as
most of the trans. cross member bolts. I'm pretty sure the clutch IS new
because
some of the bolts/nuts are new and/or have stripped heads. Tomorrow, I'll get
the
slave cyl line and the starter off.

Thursday will be the big "fight with the trans" day as I pull the
transmission out.

The truck has the Mazda 5 speed with the integral bell housing. Does anyone
know
how high I have to have the frame so the trans will clear it? (Without too
much
screaming and throwing of tools).

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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:40:52 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sender problem delux

bad sender unit remove and replace
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:56:36 -0500
From: Nape
Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Carb for 85 Ranger

Hi all-

I have a 85 Ranger with a 2.8l and a barely functional stock carb. The performance is very pitiful right now and one of the things on the list of things to do is put in a new carbeurator. I need to know the maxium output the carb I get should have. I want to get the most gain but I also know that given my engine limitations getting too high an output would be pointless if not counter productive. Any ideas on what I should get?
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:45:56 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Pigeon Forge Show, Information

Those of you who are interested in attending the 21st Annual
F100 Supernationals in Pigeon Forge Tennessee can join the
Ford Truck Enthusiasts email list for discussion, questions
answered and event information. This is a big event for our
group, last year we had about 30 people there (not including
spouses and families). This year we expect double that
number.

I believe the date for reservations at the two hotels we
had rooms reserved at has passed but there are lots of
lodging alternatives. We are going to have a Saturday
breakfast at the Alan Jackson Cafe and the Georgia LoRiders
(a Ford truck club based in Atlanta) has invited us to
attend their Saturday BBQ.

The show is from May 13-16. Last year there where over 800
trucks in the show from 48s through 98s. This year they are
limiting the newest trucks to 79s due to lack of space.

If you are interested in joining the email list for more
information on this event, send an email to majordomo ford-trucks.com
with the following in the body of the email:

subscribe pfgroup-list youremail address.com

^^^^^Replace the above with your email
address.

If you have trouble joining the email list, email me personally
(kpayne ford-trucks.com) and I'll add you.

Later,
Ken Payne
Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:01:24 -0700
From: "Dennis R. Fischer"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1989 F250

F150 = 1/2 ton model
F250 = 3/4 ton model
F350 = 1 ton model


- -----Original Message-----
From: Andy Norris
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, April 26, 1999 3:02 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1989 F250


>
>I'm the new owner of a 1989 F250 extended cab with a 351. I've never owned
>a Ford before. I know that everyone on this list might be just a tad
>biased, but I was wondering if anyone might give me a hint as to what I'm
>in for. The rear gas tank doesn't work, but that's about the only 'major'
>thing of which I'm aware just yet. The steering wheel is a little loose,
>but I think I can handle tightening that down. Are there any problems
>inherent in this particular model/year? Anything I should watch out
>for/check over?
>
>And, just to show that I really don't know what I'm getting myself into...
>what are the differences between an F150/250/350? I've already had folks
>ask me that question.
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Andy
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:51:33 EDT
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - More useless service people

I went to my dealer today to ask if any of the four recalls were done on my
truck and she first told me that there weren't any, then she told me that
there weren't any in the last year, which is true. They can only go back a
year in their records and the last recall was in '95. Anyone know how I
might be able to find this info out? Maybe Corprate? Second, she gave me
the same story on the TSB's, telling me that there weren't any on my truck,
to which I pulled out 230 something TSB's I got from Alldata's website and
again, I got no answer. Where can I get this info? I'm dying to find out
what the fix for my leaking trans is....

Thanks,

Joe
Lost in Jersey
92 F-150 Nite
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 18:53:10 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sender

If all other guages (temp, oil press) seem normal, then it is probably the
sender. You have two tanks? Front one always reads empty? Could be a broken
wire, a sunk float, or a bad sender. Rear tank sometimes reads way full?
Could be a wire shorted to ground or another bad sender. Don't you love
these definite answers? Sorry, but that's the way it is with these things.

When testing things, do not short the wires going up to instruments to
ground. You will fry the instruments. Connect through some resistance, like
a 12 volt test lamp. Minimum resistance needs to be 10 ohms; that should
read Full. Higher resitance reads less fuel. I forget what the calibration
resistance for Empty is... (CRS setting in). I think it is 72 ohms, but
would not swear to it. I can look it up if you really need to know.

If not broken or shorted wires, probably need to drop tanks and pull
senders. Bench test them or just replace them. I hear they are fairly
cheap. Replace floats at same time.

Good luck.

At 18:22 26/04/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I think my sending unit in my 92-F250 went out. A few weeks ago when the
>tank was near empty, it started going from empty to waaaay full. After
>filling up it was ok. Today as the rear than got empty, I switched to the
>front, and it showed empty.. Hmmm, I thought I had gas in there. went to
>fill it, it was full. So it (seems to be) stuck. Anyone else had this or
>changed it? Any advise?

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:45:41 EDT
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Looking for 92-96 interior parts

If anyone has a parts truck or knows where I could get parts, I would
appreciate it. I'm looking for door panels, a cluster, and some other small
trim parts.

Thanks,

Joe
Lost in Jersey
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:43:28 EDT
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sender

In a message dated 4/26/99 4:23:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
shansen minot.com writes:


changed it? Any advise?
Steve >>
I have this problem as we speak, and I have found nothing wrong so far, but I
haven't gotten to the cluster yet.

Joe
Lost in jersey
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 23:22:20 -0500
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Mean Popping Sound

I lost a front brake pad anti-rattle clip one time and it's amazing how much
racket a loose brake pad will make for not moving much.

Just a suggestion....

> -----Original Message-----
> From:WoodStck45 aol.com [SMTP:WoodStck45 aol.com]
> Sent:Sunday, April 25, 1999 9:34 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - Mean Popping Sound
>
> Fellows
>
> I have 1991 Ford F-250 HD pickup. I get a real bad popping sound when the
>
> truck gets in a bind or when going over alot of bumps (like in a fresh
> chisel
> plowed field). It has gotten worse over time and now it is starting to
> pop
> all the time when i hit a bump. It is definatly coming from up front, but
> i
> am not sure where. I have all new shocks, u-joints, ball joints, ball
> joint
> bushings, and tie rod bushings. Could it be the bushings on that junk
> independent front axle i have? Or could it be a sway bar or a leaf
> spring.
> I took some white lithium grease in an aerosol can and sprayed the spring
> bushings, sway bar bushings, in between the leaf springs theirselves, and
> the
> bushings on the independent front axle. It didn't help one bit. Have any
> of
> you guys had this problem or maybe no what it is? Could this be a motor
> mount? I doubt it is cause the motor never moves if you rev it up or
> toque
> it. Any comments, suggestions, or answers will be greatly appreciated.
> This
> pop is driving me in sain.
>
> Thanks
> Paul
>
> P.S. The next truck is gonna be a one ton
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 00:06:22 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - v-8 Throttle body on straight 6?

Erston,
Yes the V8 throttle body is larger than the stock V6 one. I believe the stock
V8 one is 50-52mm and the V6 one would be smaller. I have my stock one laying
here since I changed it out to the BBK/Edlebrock 62 mm (I had to port my
intake TB tubes to match up to this monster). If you want it, it is yours for
a very cheap price. Email me off list if you want it.
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
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Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 00:32:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: Victor L Moran
Subject: FTE 80-96 - oil guage woes

Hello all,
My '87 aerostar is doing pretty well. However I feel something is
wrong with the oil system and I can't put my finger on what it is. Here
is the short version of the story
I bought the van about 9 months ago and the oil pressure was very
low to begin with. No damage seemed done. I kept it filled and didn't
worry about the low reading on the oil gauge (first car, still learning
what's important!) eventually I got concerned because when the car was
declerating the engine light would come on because the oil pressure gauge
was reading 0. Turned out that the oil sending unit was broken. Replaced
it. Gauge now flying very high. Perhaps too high.
3 months ago I was driving from Buffalo to New York and the car
had been on and running for about 7 hours at 65 and had been idling for
about 5 more hours (while I slept). The pressure gauge dropped to 0 while
I was doing 65! I put it in neutral and coasted onto the shoulder. Just
before I was going to turn off the engine, the oil pressure returned.
I let the engine cool off for a few minutes then restarted and
kept driving. No more oil problems. When I got to my friends garage, he
told me that the problem was the oil was getting 'stuck on top of the
engine', therefore there was no oil in the pan to pump and the pressure
dropped. He put a 3 dollar bottle of a cleaner into it and then changed
the oil and the pressure was flying high again.
500 miles later I am having a new problem. Just prior to this
problem starting, the pressure had been so high at startup that I was
afraid of moving the car until the engine was really warm because the
pressure during acceleration was very high (within one notch on the gauge
of the red zone), but now the oil pressure starts near the middle of the
gauge and doesn't go very far over it. (we're talk 3-4 days time here)
Some other signs of problems are these, today while driving home 10 miles
from work, the pressure stayed steady even during very hard acceleration
(I did it on purpose to see if gauge would move, normally I'm gentle,
she's getting old), then to top if all off the pressure during steady city
speeds started dropping to 1/4 of the guage. I was currious as to what
will happen when the engine is idling, so when I got home I watched the
gauge while it was idling and the pressure jumped up then came down slowly
every five seconds or so.
A mechanic told me that perhaps the oil pump's filter is clogged
but I wanted to get ideas from the people on this list first. Any idea's?

Victor. (sorry about the length, but I think that details might help
solve the overall problem)

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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:42:01 -0700
From: "Mike"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - oil guage woes

Sounds like it could be an electrical problem. Think I would install a
manual gauge and go from there....Mike


- -----Original Message-----
From: Victor L Moran
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, April 26, 1999 9:33 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - oil guage woes


>Hello all,
> My '87 aerostar is doing pretty well. However I feel something is
>wrong with the oil system and I can't put my finger on what it is. Here
>is the short version of the story
> I bought the van about 9 months ago and the oil pressure was very
>low to begin with. No damage seemed done. I kept it filled and didn't
>worry about the low reading on the oil gauge (first car, still learning
>what's important!) eventually I got concerned because when the car was
>declerating the engine light would come on because the oil pressure gauge
>was reading 0. Turned out that the oil sending unit was broken. Replaced
>it. Gauge now flying very high. Perhaps too high.
> 3 months ago I was driving from Buffalo to New York and the car
>had been on and running for about 7 hours at 65 and had been idling for
>about 5 more hours (while I slept). The pressure gauge dropped to 0 while
>I was doing 65! I put it in neutral and coasted onto the shoulder. Just
>before I was going to turn off the engine, the oil pressure returned.
> I let the engine cool off for a few minutes then restarted and
>kept driving. No more oil problems. When I got to my friends garage, he
>told me that the problem was the oil was getting 'stuck on top of the
>engine', therefore there was no oil in the pan to pump and the pressure
>dropped. He put a 3 dollar bottle of a cleaner into it and then changed
>the oil and the pressure was flying high again.
> 500 miles later I am having a new problem. Just prior to this
>problem starting, the pressure had been so high at startup that I was
>afraid of moving the car until the engine was really warm because the
>pressure during acceleration was very high (within one notch on the gauge
>of the red zone), but now the oil pressure starts near the middle of the
>gauge and doesn't go very far over it. (we're talk 3-4 days time here)
>Some other signs of problems are these, today while driving home 10 miles
>from work, the pressure stayed steady even during very hard acceleration
>(I did it on purpose to see if gauge would move, normally I'm gentle,
>she's getting old), then to top if all off the pressure during steady city
>speeds started dropping to 1/4 of the guage. I was currious as to what
>will happen when the engine is idling, so when I got home I watched the
>gauge while it was idling and the pressure jumped up then came down slowly
>every five seconds or so.
> A mechanic told me that perhaps the oil pump's filter is clogged
>but I wanted to get ideas from the people on this list first. Any idea's?
>
>Victor. (sorry about the length, but I think that details might help
>solve the overall problem)
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 01:29:58 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sender

Hey Rolson,
NYC is a rip off. I used to live in Long Island before I moved to Clearwater
, Florida.
When you order parts, tell them you are a mechanic shop. Like ROLSONS AUTO
REPAIR. You will get a mechanics discount and save alot of $$$$$. Get some
cheap business cards made up and save money. If they ask about sales tax Just
tell them that you are waiting to get a tax # from albany, and pay the tax. I
have spent thousands on parts for all of my vehicles, and saved alot of
money. Good Luck.

Joe/ www.flashwax.com


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Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 01:35:19 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sender problem delux

In my opinion , if your tank reads full when you fill it, than drops to empty
or lower , than it could be that float absorbing fuel and losing bouyancy. It
fills up with fuel, and starts to sink. This is the job if you want to do it.

previous e-mail

I am not sure,but it is probably the same float assembly. first spray the
tank strap threaded shafts with a rust remover( pb blaster works good) a few
days before doing the job. I would run the tank down to almost empty.
disconnect the fuel fill hose & vent hose, disconnect the fuel pump harness
from tank, and 2 fuel lines from tank.

After you get the tank down you will have to tap the round fuel pump assembly
sleeve counterclockwise pull out the assembly and check to see if the float
has absorbed fuel in it. If it does change it. if it does not, change it
anyway, and replace the fuel level assembly $ 30 bucks at napa. Fuel floats $
4 bucks at ford.
The whole job is labor. good luck.
Joe/www.flashwax.com

p.s. I did my rear tank changed the float and I still get a flucuating
reading. Now I know it was that dam fuel assembly and not the float.
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Date: 26 Apr 99 22:47:14 PDT
From: William Berninghausen
Subject: Re: [Re: [FTE 80-96 - RE: vacuum]]

William Berninghausen wrote:....


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