80-96-list-digest Monday, April 26 1999 Volume 03 : Number 117



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - EFI 300ci six valve cover gasket replacement
Re: FTE 80-96 - I know we covered this once before but...
FTE 80-96 - '84 I6 rebuild
Re: FTE 80-96 - FUEL GAUGE NOT ACCURATE
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Your truck photo wanted for the Pigeon Forge show
FTE 80-96 - Re: Adapters from Ford list
Re: FTE 80-96 - 4.9L 300 Inline 6 Fuel Rich problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - v-8 Throttle body on straight 6?
FTE 80-96 - Mean Popping Sound
Re: FTE 80-96 - Throttle Position Sensor
Re: Subject: FTE 80-96 - Throttle Position Sensor
Re: FTE 80-96 - stalls on deceleration
FTE 80-96 - Clunk from Reverse to Forward
Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunk from Reverse to Forward
FTE 80-96 - 85 F-150 Auto Trans Stutters Uphill
FTE 80-96 - Over/Under Aux Tranny

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Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 07:50:50 -0400
From: Jay Snyder
Subject: FTE 80-96 - EFI 300ci six valve cover gasket replacement

The message about the 302 valve cover gasket replacement
reminded me to post this question.

I have an '87 F-150 with an EFI 300ci six, that leaks oil everywhere.
It looks like I have to remove upper half of the intake to get the valve
cover off. All the bolts holding the two halves together come up
from the bottom. What is the best way to get to the rear most
ones? They look like real b**ches to get to.

Thanks,
J.
'87 F-150 with a leaking six.

============================================================
Jay Snyder
jsnyder microserve.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.microserve.net/~jsnyder
(717)652-3567
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Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 09:22:17 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - I know we covered this once before but...

Bob-
The idea behind grinding off or chiseling off the rivets of the radius arm
bracket where it is mounte to the frame is to make it easier to replace the
bad bushing. With thos rivets off, the arm drops down and whn you undo the
big nut on the end then everything slides off the end. If the rivets happen
to be a bit loose, then it solves that problem also. (Loose rivets give you
a popping or creaking sound when you turn or flex the front axel some. I
doubt you would ever be able to move them with you fingers; that would be
REALLY loose.)

You can change these bushings without removing the rivets if you drop the
half axle (2WD) or full axle (4WD) and slide it forward after removing the
big nut on the end of the radius arm. That's how I did my 2WD. (It's the
procedure in the factory shop manual.) I wanted to replace the axle pivot
bushings at the same time, so I had to drop the whole axel anyway. Popping
the rivets off was not going to save me any time. It was actually not that
hard.

I did not go with the polyurethane bushings, so I do not know what to tell
you there. I got the TRW Premium "Improved Design" bushings from my local
auto parts store. They cost a bit more than the "original design" bushings
also offred, but as I recall they were still rather cheap (like $12 for the
pair). The axle pivot bushings were also about $12 for the pair as I
recall. I do not go off road much, so I did not feel I needed the
durability of poly.

Reuse the nut and washer on those radius arms. No problem. They really get
torqued down! (like 180 ft-lbs, as I recall). Being over 30 years old, like
you, my memory is begining to go so don't trust me on that value... It may
not be quite that high. I can tell you, I remember putting both feet up on
the frame and pulling with both hands on this big mother box wrench, though!

Good luck! This was one of the more fun things I did on this truck so far,
and most gratifying. The front suspension was so sloppy before (like hot a
good bumb and have the truck start dancing down the road) and felt so tight
afterward that it just made me feel good.

At 09:37 24/04/99 EDT, you wrote:
>Ok guys my question revolves around strut bar bushings. I know we covered
>this a few weeks ago, but ya gotta remember Im past thirty now and the mind
>is the first thing to go so...
>I recall that at least one of y'all were talking about the bracket which the
>strut bar bushings seal against, and that some of you had taken chisels and
>hammers and removed the rivets to make the job easier.Some of you said the
>bracket was loose.If I take mine apart and the bracket does not move by hand
>is it safe to assume that this is tight enough?

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 08:44:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Alex Wolfe
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '84 I6 rebuild

I have finally gotten around to rebuilding the ill-maintained engine
off my '84 F-150 I6(Only had it 2 years and it's dead). I'm a relative
newbie on the internals of an engine, but I only paid $500 for the
truck so I figure it's a good opportunity for a learning experience.
My question is this: How much wear is acceptable on the journals?
There is a copper colored coating (friction related I assume) that is
almost entirely worn away, and is visibly grooved. I am hoping to get
away with just valves/springs/seats/guides/gaskets/(pistons?) and want
to avoid any machining if possible. Is there anything I can do to
smooth the suckers out, or is it not that significant? I know the
*right* answer is a lot of machining, but I just want it to go
"putt-putt" for another year at best. Other funny thing is the front
and back of the pistons as well as the cylinder walls are visibly worn,
almost like the block contracted front-to-back. The failure that
induced this was the engine siezing at operating temp, good oil
pressure, normal coolant temp, just siezed. Upon draining precious
fluids I saw no metal, and I went though my oil with a small magnet
with no success in finding anything. After the "siezure" I would go to
crank, get about half a crank in and "WHAM" it would stop
(flywheel/starter seem fine. pressure plate/clute fine). Any advice
from those with experience?

Alex - Up to the elbows in parts

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 12:36:18 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - FUEL GAUGE NOT ACCURATE

Hey Herb,
I am not sure,but it is probably the same float assembly. first spray the
tank strap threaded shafts with a rust remover( pb blaster works good) a few
days before doing the job. I would run the tank down to almost empty.
disconnect the fuel fill hose & vent hose, disconnect the fuel pump harness
from tank, and 2 fuel lines from tank.

After you get the tank down you will have to tap the round fuel pump assembly
sleeve counterclockwise pull out the assembly and check to see if the float
has absorbed fuel in it. If it does change it. if it does not, change it
anyway, and replace the fuel level assembly $ 30 bucks at napa. Fuel floats $
4 bucks at ford.
The whole job is labor. good luck.
Joe/www.flashwax.com

p.s. I did my rear tank changed the float and I still get a flucuating
reading. Now I know it was that dam fuel assembly and not the float.
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Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 17:09:47 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Your truck photo wanted for the Pigeon Forge show

As we did last year, Ford Truck Enthusiasts will be at
the F100 Supernationals in Pigeon Forge, Tennessee from
May 13-16. We plan to have a board featuring trucks
from our members on display.

If you would like your truck featured, send a photograph
to:

Ford Truck Enthusiasts, Inc.
PO Box 422
Lilburn, GA 30048

You must send a photograph. Emailed scans will not be
accepted for the board. Please send them ASAP.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 19:31:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Vandor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Adapters from Ford list

Actually I told another member about them but couldn't find my catalog.
I had no idea they had an internet site.

Thanks!

- --- ILiftYou aol.com wrote:
> I think you were looking for Advanced Adapters Web site go to
> www.advanceadapters.com. If this was what you were looking for
> hope it
> will help
> Thanks Frank Down with "Bow Tie"
>
>

===
Casey Vandor
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/
83 F-250 4x4
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 20:36:01 -0600
From: "CalvinB"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 4.9L 300 Inline 6 Fuel Rich problem

I must agree with Andre Roy about leaky fuel injectors. I have a straight 6
in a 87 Ford F150. My gas was very rich and had it into a local Ford
dealership. Ford charged me $550 (Canadian) for what they called a
diagnostic, and came up with changing the fuel filter (did not help.) A
buddy of mine who used to work on Fords explained to me that it sounded like
the fuel injectors were very leaky. Sure enough, they were pouring gas in
the engine. I put in the new injectors (with my engine I did not have to
take off the upper air intake manifold therefore I could do them myself) and
voila....running like a top (with a minor tinker with the throttle). If you
are looking to put in the injectors yourself, you need a gizmo to detach the
fuel line from the fuel rail, then wiggle the fuel rail out. As well, put
some petroleum jelly on the o-rings for the injectors so they slide in ok (I
was told not to use oil).

Good luck.

Cal.

>Hello Folks,
>
>I have a 93' Ford F150 4.9L Inline 6 and I am getting an engine light about
>20% of the time I go out driving. The code associated with this light is
>179. I think it means Adaptive fuel memory. Anyway, I never notice a
problem
>in driving other than the slightest of hesitation whan I slowly press on
the
>gas pedal from idle. I have had one service center do a complete tune up,
>timing, replace Oxygen sensor, replace Throttle position sensor, fuel
>filter, plugs, plug wires, air filter, pvc, and any other general tune up
>stuff.
>
>The tech said that he would run the Key on engine running quick test and
get
>a code 4 out of 5 times. I believe he said the code was 172 or 173. The
code
>was fuel rich. The way he explained it was I was getting a fuel rich
problem
>and then while drive the computer tries to correct and can't so end gives
>the engine light with a code 179. The service tech finally gave up and said
>he didn't know what was causing it without replacing expensive parts at my
>expense whether it repairs it or not. He suggested that I take it to a Ford
>dealer which is what did. Ford now has it and the technician had the
>gumption to say this. "I saw the code in the computer and cleared it. I
took
>it for a drive and it drove fine. As far as I can tell nothing is wrong"
>
>I was shocked at what I was hearing!!! I will be having a chat with the
Ford
>Shop/Service Manager to say the least. After practically arguing with the
>technician he said he would next do a fuel pressure test (which the other
>tech tested and couldn't get a failure). I realize the other tech could
have
>missed something so I told him to go ahead.
>
>Does anyone have a clue what could be causing this.
>
>
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>

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Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 20:44:10 -0600
From: "CalvinB"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - v-8 Throttle body on straight 6?

I have have one off a 5.0L and I have had no problems.

Cal.

>
>I have a 89 Ford F-150 With the 4.9L straight 6. Would a throttle
>body off of a 5.0 or 5.8 fit on the upper intake on my straight 6?
>They both have dual inlets and the same connections.
>


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Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 22:34:24 EDT
From: WoodStck45 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Mean Popping Sound

Fellows

I have 1991 Ford F-250 HD pickup. I get a real bad popping sound when the
truck gets in a bind or when going over alot of bumps (like in a fresh chisel
plowed field). It has gotten worse over time and now it is starting to pop
all the time when i hit a bump. It is definatly coming from up front, but i
am not sure where. I have all new shocks, u-joints, ball joints, ball joint
bushings, and tie rod bushings. Could it be the bushings on that junk
independent front axle i have? Or could it be a sway bar or a leaf spring.
I took some white lithium grease in an aerosol can and sprayed the spring
bushings, sway bar bushings, in between the leaf springs theirselves, and the
bushings on the independent front axle. It didn't help one bit. Have any of
you guys had this problem or maybe no what it is? Could this be a motor
mount? I doubt it is cause the motor never moves if you rev it up or toque
it. Any comments, suggestions, or answers will be greatly appreciated. This
pop is driving me in sain.

Thanks
Paul

P.S. The next truck is gonna be a one ton
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Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 21:33:21 -0600
From: "CalvinB"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Throttle Position Sensor

I had the same problem. Idle floating all over the place. What I found out
was that my Air Intake Bypass Valve was sticking. I took it off and cleaned
it with carb cleaner. Don't let it soak in carb cleaner. It fixed my
problem. I later tried one out of a 5.0L to see if it worked. It did and I
just havn't changed back o the old one.

Cal.


Date: Thursday, April 15, 1999 10:48 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Throttle Position Sensor


>I'm looking for an idling problem cure. I stop at one red light and my '85
>302 idles fine. Stop at the next one and the idle goes up and down until
it
>gets so low it dies. Doesn't matter if a/c is on or not. Starts right up
>with no problem.
>
>Wanted to know if a bad throttle position sensor would completely go out or
>could it possibly act like I described? It's got 192,000 miles on it and
it
>is still the original.
>
>If it is, I know I need a gasket for the throttle body when I remove it,
but
>can I leave all the linkeages connected and move it enough to get to the
>sensor screw? Anything else need attention while I'm in that area?
>
>Thanks
>
>Scott Harris
>1985 F150 S/C 302FE
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>

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Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 21:46:12 -0600
From: "CalvinB"
Subject: Re: Subject: FTE 80-96 - Throttle Position Sensor

Just a comment on the Throttle Positioning Sensor. In an old version of
Muscle Mustang and Fast Fords they had a little clip of setting a TPS. Here
is the clip

"On the subject of throttle bodies, once your new throttle body is
installed, don't forget to set your throttle position sensor (TPS) voltage
with a digital volt meter. Pierce the green wire with the positive lead
probe and the black wire with the negative lead probe (use straight pins if
you don't have probe tip leads) and adjust your TPS to within .997 - .999
volts by loosening the mounting screws and pivoting it left or right to
obtain the correct reading"

I couldn't find this tip in any of my books and some of the mechanics around
here did not know about it. When I first put it in my reading was .667.....

Cal.




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Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 22:17:34 -0600
From: "CalvinB"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - stalls on deceleration

Check your Throttle Positioning Sensor and make sure it is set between .997
and .999. Also, pull off your Air Intake Bypass Valve. This little unit
may be all guncked up and sticking which may be putting in too much air or
not enough. Clean it out with carb cleaner (dont soak it). See if the
valve does not stick anymore. I know a few people with Topazes as well as
Tempos that have this problem and cleaning the Air Intake Bypass Valve seem
to fix it.

Cal.

- -----Subject: FTE 80-96 - stalls on deceleration


>I've got an 89 EFI that starts and runs fine but it will stall when
>decelerating from highway speed down to a stop. Any clues sd yo what is
>causing this. No check engine light or trouble codes.
>Craig
>Eggerman juno.com
>Casper,Wyoming
>O|||||O
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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>

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Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 23:01:33 -0600
From: "CalvinB"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Clunk from Reverse to Forward

I have an 87 F150 300 straight 6 2x4 shortbox supercab. Runs great but when
I shift from reverse to 1st (I have a 3 speed overdrive) I sometime hear a
clunk. If I accellerate slowly I sometimes do not hear the clunk right
away, after I accellerate (let go of the gas) that is when I hear the
clunk. I have had my motor mounts replaced already. Any suggestions?

Cal.

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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 01:05:21 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunk from Reverse to Forward

U joints been replaced?
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"

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Date: Sun, 25 Apr 99 22:32:28 -0700
From: russ beebe
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 85 F-150 Auto Trans Stutters Uphill

My 'new' 85 F-150 351W, 128K mi, auto transmission occasionally slips in
and out of low gear when going slowly up steep hills, especially when
cold. My driveway's on a hill and when I back out then try going up,
sometimes the tranny doesn't engage for about 15-30 seconds, like it's
still in neutral, but then it kicks into first. Coming up that hill the
other day slowly with a warm engine it skipped in and out of low gear. I
just had the transmission fluid changed, and it's full according to the
dipstick.

Any ideas from you experts out there? Thanks!

- --Russ
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 09:25:10 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnar?= Huse
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Over/Under Aux Tranny

- -Would appreciate comments on performance on either Gear Vendor or
- -U.S.Gear units coupled to a 460 cu.in. with a C-6 automatic. Am towing
a
- -8500 lb. fifth wheel

This is almost the same configuration I used when I lived in Edmonds,
except we had a F-250 XLT Lariat Supercab with some Centurion gadgets,
towing a 8800 lbs 5th wheel.

We were annoyed with the RPMs and fuel consumption pulling the 5th
wheel. We installed a G.V. under/overdrive unit and saw a 20-30%
improvement in fuel consumption. Add to that the noise reduction and
decreased oil consumption (even the fairly new 460 used 3 quarts going
from Seattle to L.A. on Hwy 1). The gearing was a bit harsh to my
liking, but when in the 45 mph gear mode (upshift when exceeding 45
mph), the change wasn't as noticeable. I assume we saved a lot in engine....


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