80-96-list-digest Thursday, April 22 1999 Volume 03 : Number 113



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Re:- Intermitent problem with starter
RE: Subject: FTE 80-96 - Header Gasket Problems
RE: FTE 80-96 - Intermitent problem with starter
FTE 80-96 - emissions test
RE: FTE 80-96 - Intermittent problem with starter
Re: FTE 80-96 - Intermitent problem with starter
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:- Intermitent problem with starter
RE: FTE 80-96 - Intermittent problem with starter
RE: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery
Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery
FTE 80-96 - engine mods
RE: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery
Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery
Re: FTE 80-96 - engine mods
FTE 80-96 - Bed Swap & Lift
Re: FTE 80-96 - Intermitent problem with starter
Re: FTE 80-96 - Bed Swap & Lift
RE: FTE 80-96 - Bed Swap & Lift
FTE 80-96 - Re: Ford 10.25
FTE 80-96 - Re: 1986 351W
FTE 80-96 - Re: 460 in a 1984
Re: FTE 80-96 - 84 F-250 460 conversion
Re: FTE 80-96 - engine mods
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Ford 10.25
RE: FTE 80-96 - Intermitent problem with starter
FTE 80-96 - ICM
Re: FTE 80-96 - Intermitent problem with starter

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 07:10:37 -0400
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:- Intermitent problem with starter

Mark Ponsford wrote:
>
> This has happend to me three times in the last 6 months or so. I go to
> start the engine and all I get is a loud clank sound as the starter
> engages? but nothing else. If I return the key to the off position and try
> again there is no sound and all my dash lights dim while the key is in the
> crank position. Get out, open the hood, slam it closed and try again. It
> starts!!
>
> What gives? Is my starter kaput?
>

them throughly with a baking soda/water mix. When you impart a vibration
to the connection, it makes enough to start the truck. Could be other
loose connections in the circuit, too.

Oh, and the starter relay (looks like a little can on the passenger side
fender with BFCables running to it). It's a relay. It may be sticky, and
a little vibration loosens it up.

- - --
Andre, Somewhere ...>>

On mine it was the relay/solonoid on the fender wall next to the batt. It
wasn't grounding to the fenderwall properly. I put in larger metal screws
after I scuffed up arount the holes, good ground, no problem.

Luck to ya
mike baker
1985 f-1504x4

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 08:32:08 -0400
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: RE: Subject: FTE 80-96 - Header Gasket Problems

If your using a paper gasket that may be your problem. That kept happening
to me with my 86 300. Use a metal gasket along with the gasket sealer in a
tube stuff. It should take care of your problem. One other thing could be
your head may be warped a little. Mine leaked a little until I had it
machined. Hasn't done it since now. I have a question for you. I have a
Headman Header and I can't remove my starter without removing the header.
This bothers me. I have to slide the header half way into place then slide
the starter between the tubes and then slide them the rest of the way in
together. Is the Clifford header the same way? Does it have 2 collectors for
a duel exhaust setup? How does yours run?
Mike


> Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 00:53:03 EDT
> From: ILiftYou aol.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Header Gasket Problems
>
> I have installed Clifford Performance Headers and Manifold on
> my 81Ford
> Bronco with a 300 six. Problem is I can't make the headers
> seal up they burn
> out gaskets with in a few days. Has any one used Clifford
> products on your
> trucks. Thanks
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 23:09:50 -0500
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Intermitent problem with starter

Possibilities: Missing teeth on starter or flywheel causing it to be out of
alignment just a hair where the hood slam fixes it.

Or the housing around the starter gear is broken(happened to me) and gets
crooked inside jamming the teeth.

Your lights going dim mean there is a load going to the starter and getting
backed up, it's trying to spin but something is interfering with it.

A couple of places to start anyway....If it's easy to pull your starter now
do it....even if it is a pain because it's easier to do than change the
flywheel!(my luck).



- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Ponsford [mailto:mponsfor uvic.ca]
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 1999 5:38 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Intermitent problem with starter


This has happend to me three times in the last 6 months or so. I go to
start the engine and all I get is a loud clank sound as the starter
engages? but nothing else. If I return the key to the off position and try
again there is no sound and all my dash lights dim while the key is in the
crank position. Get out, open the hood, slam it closed and try again. It
starts!!

What gives? Is my starter kaput?

Opps. Sorry for second post but forgot to include => '88 F150 w/302


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 22:55:12 -0500
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - emissions test

You didn't give the history of the truck but my '85 302 never had any
problems passing, I asked the tech how close I was because I was worried too
and he said I had plenty of cushion according to the analyzer.

They do tell you to make sure it is warmed up good, if it is not it will
have problem passing.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 09:42:36 -0500
From: "Kevin Reed"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Intermittent problem with starter

Same thing happened to my girlfriends tempo (yuck!). After swapping
batteries it did the same thing. I thought it was a bad battery because all
the lights went dim. To diagnose the problem better I took out the starter
and tried bench testing it. Negative to the starter housing and positive to
the terminal using jumper cables straight from the battery. It should have
engaged and spun the starter, but instead what ended up happening was the
jumper cables get REALLY hot and the starter did nothing. The starter was
completely fried. The armature had melted completely and was basically just
connecting the positive to the negative, which caused the dimming of the
lights.

She had this problem for about 6 months on and off, and she would eventually
get the car started. When it finally went, she couldn't start the car
unless I was pushing it.

Another symptom that was resolved when I replaced the starter (with a new
one) was her very rough idle for the first 10 km (6mi) or so. The only
reason I could think that this would stop was that when she went to start
her car before the starter was shorting out and resetting her computer, thus
causing her car to run like crap until the computer figured out how to run
the engine efficiently.

If your symptoms are like this I would try a bench test (Pain I. T. A. I
know!)

Good Luck

Kevin Reed
Burlington, Ontario.
CANADA.



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Mark Ponsford
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 1999 5:38 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Intermittent problem with starter
>
>
> This has happened to me three times in the last 6 months or so. I go to
> start the engine and all I get is a loud clank sound as the starter
> engages? but nothing else. If I return the key to the off position and try
> again there is no sound and all my dash lights dim while the key is in the
> crank position. Get out, open the hood, slam it closed and try again. It
> starts!!
>
> What gives? Is my starter kaput?
>
> Opps. Sorry for second post but forgot to include => '88 F150 w/302
>
>
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>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 09:49:34 -0400
From: Chris Hedemark
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Intermitent problem with starter

Mark Ponsford wrote:
>
> This has happend to me three times in the last 6 months or so. I go to
> start the engine and all I get is a loud clank sound as the starter
> engages? but nothing else. If I return the key to the off position and try
> again there is no sound and all my dash lights dim while the key is in the
> crank position. Get out, open the hood, slam it closed and try again. It
> starts!!
>
> What gives? Is my starter kaput?

Well spend ten minutes with your volt meter and ensure that your
electrical system is in good shape. Also inspect the battery cables,
plus the hot cable from the solenoid to the starter, for signs of
corrosion. When I upgraded the cables in the 87 F250 I spent a couple
dollars extra for extra heavy guage cables that hardly bend they're so
thick but I think it's a worthwhile investment.

But based on your description of a physical jarring enabling the starter
to work, it sounds like the common systems surrounding a dying starter.
You can get a rebuild kit and do the starter yourself. My preference is
to buy a rebuilt starter from a reputable parts chain with a lifetime
warranty so that way if it dies again, you're covered for free parts.

- --

Chris Hedemark
Work: IBM eNetwork Dispatcher
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.software.ibm.com/enetwork/dispatcher
Personal: Yonder Way http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.yonderway.com
"Earl Svein! thou now wilt know
That our lads can make blood flow --
That the Hedemarkers hale
Can do more than tap good ale." - Saga of Olaf Haraldson: Part II
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 09:54:29 -0400
From: Chris Hedemark
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:- Intermitent problem with starter

PmctBaker wrote:

> Oh, and the starter relay (looks like a little can on the passenger side
> fender with BFCables running to it). It's a relay. It may be sticky, and
> a little vibration loosens it up.

If the parts guy looks at you funny, ask for a "starter solenoid" and
that should clear up any confusion. They are quite inexpensive for
Fords.

- --

Chris Hedemark
Work: IBM eNetwork Dispatcher
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.software.ibm.com/enetwork/dispatcher
Personal: Yonder Way http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.yonderway.com
"Earl Svein! thou now wilt know
That our lads can make blood flow --
That the Hedemarkers hale
Can do more than tap good ale." - Saga of Olaf Haraldson: Part II
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 10:08:22 -0500
From: "Kevin Reed"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Intermittent problem with starter

If it's the armature burnt out a rebuild kit won't help; they don't come
with one. A bench test will tell him though. Watch out, if it's the same
as that tempo the wires get very hot.

Kevin Reed



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Chris Hedemark
> Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 8:50 AM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Intermittent problem with starter
>
>
> Mark Ponsford wrote:
> >
> > This has happened to me three times in the last 6 months or so. I go to
> > start the engine and all I get is a loud clank sound as the starter
> > engages? but nothing else. If I return the key to the off
> position and try
> > again there is no sound and all my dash lights dim while the
> key is in the
> > crank position. Get out, open the hood, slam it closed and try again. It
> > starts!!
> >
> > What gives? Is my starter kaput?
>
> Well spend ten minutes with your volt meter and ensure that your
> electrical system is in good shape. Also inspect the battery cables,
> plus the hot cable from the solenoid to the starter, for signs of
> corrosion. When I upgraded the cables in the 87 F250 I spent a couple
> dollars extra for extra heavy gauge cables that hardly bend they're so
> thick but I think it's a worthwhile investment.
>
> But based on your description of a physical jarring enabling the starter
> to work, it sounds like the common systems surrounding a dying starter.
> You can get a rebuild kit and do the starter yourself. My preference is
> to buy a rebuilt starter from a reputable parts chain with a lifetime
> warranty so that way if it dies again, you're covered for free parts.
>
> --
>
> Chris Hedemark
> Work: IBM eNetwork Dispatcher
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.software.ibm.com/enetwork/dispatcher
> Personal: Yonder Way http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.yonderway.com
> "Earl Svein! thou now wilt know
> That our lads can make blood flow --
> That the Hedemarkers hale
> Can do more than tap good ale." - Saga of Olaf Haraldson: Part II
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 09:33:18 -0500
From: "Runte, Robert"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery

Hi -

I posted to the list this past Monday and received many good suggestions
about an aux battery that was not charging. I wanted to share the
resolution of this problem with the list in case anyone else ever encounters
this.

I also wanted to confirm that there was a solenoid, but I did not find an
isolator. It looks like there is either one or the other, but not both.

1) I checked for power on each side of the solenoid and found power only on
the (new) aux battery's side of the solenoid.
2) I then checked the small wire with the ignition switch on and found power
there.
3) I reattached the small wire to the solenoid and rechecked both sides of
the solenoid with the ignition switch on. I found the same voltage, about
12V, on both sides of the solenoid.
4) I started the vehicle and rechecked voltage levels at each solenoid post.
Still only 12V. But the primary battery was showing a 14.6 volt level, so
I knew the aux battery was still not charging.
4) The left post of the solenoid was shared by the + lead to the aux battery
and a cable coming from the chassis wire harness labeled " battery side ".
I followed this wire to the harness, then to the main power distribution.
5) I pulled the cover off the distribution box and, after finding the
position of the aux power feed fuse in a diagram in the owner's manual
(really!) , found a large 60 amp fuse in there that was blown.
6) Replaced that fuse and all is well.

Maybe the old battery shorted out and took out the fuse(?). Better than
something bigger upstream!

My sincere thanks to those who responded to my posting with their good
ideas. I would not have found this without you!

Bob Runte

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 08:12:49 -0700
From: "Mike"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery

4) The left post of the solenoid was shared by the + lead to the aux battery
and a cable coming from the chassis wire harness labeled " battery side ".
I followed this wire to the harness, then to the main power distribution.

This is odd if I'm reading it right. It would seem to me that this lead
should go to the opposite side of the aux battery solenoid, or were you
referring to the starter solenoid?
If not it would tend to bypass the aux solenoid and drain the primary
battery with engine not running. This would also cause the fuse to fail
again if one battery is weaker than the other...Mike



- -----Original Message-----
From: Runte, Robert
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 7:35 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery


>Hi -
>
>I posted to the list this past Monday and received many good suggestions
>about an aux battery that was not charging. I wanted to share the
>resolution of this problem with the list in case anyone else ever
encounters
>this.
>
>I also wanted to confirm that there was a solenoid, but I did not find an
>isolator. It looks like there is either one or the other, but not both.
>
>1) I checked for power on each side of the solenoid and found power only on
>the (new) aux battery's side of the solenoid.
>2) I then checked the small wire with the ignition switch on and found
power
>there.
>3) I reattached the small wire to the solenoid and rechecked both sides of
>the solenoid with the ignition switch on. I found the same voltage, about
>12V, on both sides of the solenoid.
>4) I started the vehicle and rechecked voltage levels at each solenoid
post.
>Still only 12V. But the primary battery was showing a 14.6 volt level, so
>I knew the aux battery was still not charging.
>4) The left post of the solenoid was shared by the + lead to the aux
battery
>and a cable coming from the chassis wire harness labeled " battery side ".
>I followed this wire to the harness, then to the main power distribution.
>5) I pulled the cover off the distribution box and, after finding the
>position of the aux power feed fuse in a diagram in the owner's manual
>(really!) , found a large 60 amp fuse in there that was blown.
>6) Replaced that fuse and all is well.
>
>Maybe the old battery shorted out and took out the fuse(?). Better than
>something bigger upstream!
>
>My sincere thanks to those who responded to my posting with their good
>ideas. I would not have found this without you!
>
>Bob Runte
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 10:49:39 -0500
From: christopher niels barker
Subject: FTE 80-96 - engine mods

i have a 91 f150 with a 300 straight six and i am interested in modifying
the engine for greater performance. however, i have heard that certain
modifications can confuse the control module. this i definately do not
want. also, FoMoCo seems to have forgotten this engine when producing
performance parts. does anyone have any suggestions as to what i can do
and where i can look for parts?
also does anyone know where, besides ford, i can look for replacement body
parts (especially for the bed)?

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 11:52:18 -0500
From: "Runte, Robert"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery

Hi -

>It would seem to me that this lead
>should go to the opposite side of the aux battery solenoid,
That's what I was thinking at the time too. But it is labeled 'battery
side' so I did not mess with it! :)

After thinking about your posting, it occurred to me that this is the only
connection between the aux battery + post and the rest of the truck. Since
the TV never quit working and until the battery ran down, I am assuming
that this cable is the feed to the cabin lights/ tv etc. I suspect the cable
on the other side of the solenoid is the charging connection I completed
when I replaced the fuse. Hence the reason I 'saw' the other battery there
when the fuse was replaced and I also saw the charging voltage there when
the truck was running.

Here is a rough 'overhead' drawing looking down through the primary battery
tray from the front of the vehicle....


+ aux cable--------\ ---------------
\===p/side post==| solenoid |===d/side
post---blk wire
- --harness cable----/ -- /----------
from harness -
Labeled "battery side" post
Primary battery &
Supply to the cabin (?) /
charge source (?)
/
Thin wire -----------------/

Front of vehicle
|
V


I hope this helps -

Bob

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Mike [SMTP:miketrent earthlink.net]
> Sent:Wednesday, April 21, 1999 10:13 AM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery
>
> 4) The left post of the solenoid was shared by the + lead to the aux
> battery
> and a cable coming from the chassis wire harness labeled " battery side ".
> I followed this wire to the harness, then to the main power distribution.
>
> This is odd if I'm reading it right. It would seem to me that this lead
> should go to the opposite side of the aux battery solenoid, or were you
> referring to the starter solenoid?
> If not it would tend to bypass the aux solenoid and drain the primary
> battery with engine not running. This would also cause the fuse to fail
> again if one battery is weaker than the other...Mike
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Runte, Robert
> To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
> Date: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 7:35 AM
> Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery
>
>
> >Hi -
> >
> >I posted to the list this past Monday and received many good suggestions
> >about an aux battery that was not charging. I wanted to share the
> >resolution of this problem with the list in case anyone else ever
> encounters
> >this.
> >
> >I also wanted to confirm that there was a solenoid, but I did not find
> an
> >isolator. It looks like there is either one or the other, but not both.
> >
> >1) I checked for power on each side of the solenoid and found power only
> on
> >the (new) aux battery's side of the solenoid.
> >2) I then checked the small wire with the ignition switch on and found
> power
> >there.
> >3) I reattached the small wire to the solenoid and rechecked both sides
> of
> >the solenoid with the ignition switch on. I found the same voltage,
> about
> >12V, on both sides of the solenoid.
> >4) I started the vehicle and rechecked voltage levels at each solenoid
> post.
> >Still only 12V. But the primary battery was showing a 14.6 volt level,
> so
> >I knew the aux battery was still not charging.
> >4) The left post of the solenoid was shared by the + lead to the aux
> battery
> >and a cable coming from the chassis wire harness labeled " battery side
> ".
> >I followed this wire to the harness, then to the main power distribution.
> >5) I pulled the cover off the distribution box and, after finding the
> >position of the aux power feed fuse in a diagram in the owner's manual
> >(really!) , found a large 60 amp fuse in there that was blown.
> >6) Replaced that fuse and all is well.
> >
> >Maybe the old battery shorted out and took out the fuse(?). Better than
> >something bigger upstream!
> >
> >My sincere thanks to those who responded to my posting with their good
> >ideas. I would not have found this without you!
> >
> >Bob Runte
> >
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 10:18:54 -0700
From: "Mike"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery

, it occurred to me that this is the only
connection between the aux battery + post and the rest of the truck. Since
the TV never quit working and until the battery ran down, I am assuming
that this cable is the feed to the cabin lights/ tv etc.

This being the case it should work fine. Time will tell! ..Have a good trip
....Mike

- -----Original Message-----
From: Runte, Robert
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 9:54 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery


>Hi -
>
>>It would seem to me that this lead
>>should go to the opposite side of the aux battery solenoid,
>That's what I was thinking at the time too. But it is labeled 'battery
>side' so I did not mess with it! :)
>
>After thinking about your posting, it occurred to me that this is the only
>connection between the aux battery + post and the rest of the truck. Since
>the TV never quit working and until the battery ran down, I am assuming
>that this cable is the feed to the cabin lights/ tv etc. I suspect the
cable
>on the other side of the solenoid is the charging connection I completed
>when I replaced the fuse. Hence the reason I 'saw' the other battery there
>when the fuse was replaced and I also saw the charging voltage there when
>the truck was running.
>
>Here is a rough 'overhead' drawing looking down through the primary battery
>tray from the front of the vehicle....
>
>
>+ aux cable--------\ ---------------
> \===p/side post==| solenoid |===d/side
>post---blk wire
>--harness cable----/ -- /----------
>from harness -
> Labeled "battery side" post
>Primary battery &
> Supply to the cabin (?) /
>charge source (?)
> /
> Thin wire -----------------/
>
> Front of vehicle
> |
> V
>
>
>I hope this helps -
>
>Bob
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Mike [SMTP:miketrent earthlink.net]
>> Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 10:13 AM
>> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery
>>
>> 4) The left post of the solenoid was shared by the + lead to the aux
>> battery
>> and a cable coming from the chassis wire harness labeled " battery side
".
>> I followed this wire to the harness, then to the main power distribution.
>>
>> This is odd if I'm reading it right. It would seem to me that this lead
>> should go to the opposite side of the aux battery solenoid, or were you
>> referring to the starter solenoid?
>> If not it would tend to bypass the aux solenoid and drain the primary
>> battery with engine not running. This would also cause the fuse to fail
>> again if one battery is weaker than the other...Mike
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Runte, Robert
>> To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
>> Date: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 7:35 AM
>> Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery
>>
>>
>> >Hi -
>> >
>> >I posted to the list this past Monday and received many good suggestions
>> >about an aux battery that was not charging. I wanted to share the
>> >resolution of this problem with the list in case anyone else ever
>> encounters
>> >this.
>> >
>> >I also wanted to confirm that there was a solenoid, but I did not find
>> an
>> >isolator. It looks like there is either one or the other, but not
both.
>> >
>> >1) I checked for power on each side of the solenoid and found power only
>> on
>> >the (new) aux battery's side of the solenoid.
>> >2) I then checked the small wire with the ignition switch on and found
>> power
>> >there.
>> >3) I reattached the small wire to the solenoid and rechecked both sides
>> of
>> >the solenoid with the ignition switch on. I found the same voltage,
>> about
>> >12V, on both sides of the solenoid.
>> >4) I started the vehicle and rechecked voltage levels at each solenoid
>> post.
>> >Still only 12V. But the primary battery was showing a 14.6 volt level,
>> so
>> >I knew the aux battery was still not charging.
>> >4) The left post of the solenoid was shared by the + lead to the aux
>> battery
>> >and a cable coming from the chassis wire harness labeled " battery side
>> ".
>> >I followed this wire to the harness, then to the main power
distribution.
>> >5) I pulled the cover off the distribution box and, after finding the
>> >position of the aux power feed fuse in a diagram in the owner's manual
>> >(really!) , found a large 60 amp fuse in there that was blown.
>> >6) Replaced that fuse and all is well.
>> >
>> >Maybe the old battery shorted out and took out the fuse(?). Better than
>> >something bigger upstream!
>> >
>> >My sincere thanks to those who responded to my posting with their good
>> >ideas. I would not have found this without you!
>> >
>> >Bob Runte
>> >
>> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>> >
>>
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 16:08:12 -0400
From: Dave
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - engine mods

>also does anyone know where, besides ford, i can look for replacement body
>parts (especially for the bed)?
>
There is a company called Mill Supply in Cleveland Ohio (216)518-5072 ( I
got this # from switchboard.com So I'm not sure if it is correct) They
sell panels for fixing rust etc. Call and ask for the info reguarding your
truck . The last time I called they were not really into it but they sent
it anyway, also J.C. Whitney has some panel repair stuff . I found new
fenders locally ~ $100 from an auto body supply house.

Dave


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 16:17:43 -0500
From: "Kevin Reed"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Bed Swap & Lift

1st the Bed swap.

I have an 86 150 w dual tanks. The wheel wells are all rot, and its started
to come through the bed. The cab itself wasn't to bad so I fixed that. Is
it possible to take a bed from an 87 to 96 and swap it? If I were to do
that, does anyone know if the body lines would look all screwed up, or would
it actually look half decent?

2nd a 3" lift.

I'm a little confused as to what's involved in a body lift. Do I have to
put spacers between the frame and the body (bed&cab&front clip), or does
this involve putting blocks under the leaf springs?

What is done to the front if you put blocks under the leaf springs?

If a body lift is putting spacers between the frame and the body, won't that
screw up your bumpers. i.e.. they sit 3" too low?

Thanks in advance,

Kevin Reed
Burlington, ON
CANADA



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Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 16:31:40 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Intermitent problem with starter

problbly a loose dirty connection on the battery or on the selenoid.. check
the connections and clean them with a sandpaper or emery cloth
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 16:39:30 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Bed Swap & Lift

the pickup bed should fit on we do these kind of swaps all the time at work
and the body lines arent off ( we use Ford Pickups and vans as service
vehicles for a Forklift repair company) Sometimes you need to do a little
moditication with the mounting but they work
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 16:52:03 -0400
From: Greg Carter
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Bed Swap & Lift

> ----------
> From: Kevin Reed[SMTP:kreed ICAN.NET]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 5:17 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Bed Swap & Lift
>
> 2nd a 3" lift.
>
> I'm a little confused as to what's involved in a body lift. Do I have to
> put spacers between the frame and the body (bed&cab&front clip), or does
> this involve putting blocks under the leaf springs?
>
Spacers between the frame and the body.

> If a body lift is putting spacers between the frame and the body, won't
> that
> screw up your bumpers. i.e.. they sit 3" too low?
>
Yes it screws up the bumpers, you'll read in the ads for the body lifts that
"includes bumper brackets" where the fine print says "for most
applications". For my '91 F250 I couldn't find any kit that actually had
the brackets to relocate the bumper. So it looked stupid, until I purchased
a new tube style bumper which when they made it I had them compensate for
the 3 inch body lift.

If I were to do a body lift again I would probably go with a 2" one instead
of the 3". With the 3" I ran into problems with the manual shifter hitting
the body, the shifter for the transfer case hitting the body, fuel tank
filler hose stretched to the extreme... you may have the same problems with
a 2" though...

Bye.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 14:05:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Vandor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Ford 10.25

Nothings wrong per say with the axle, but it is only a semi floater,
and I do haul quite a bit of wash rock and d-1 with the truck, and I
have seen two semi floaters break shafts and when they break, the wheel
and piece of shaft come out. (generally this happens when you load them
or when you decide to rod it out the stoplight, but if it got jarred
going down the highway, it could be a problem) A full floater breaks,
it stays together (plus its rated a bit tougher, so I can keep hauling
the rock, *no more than I do now* but with a little bit bigger saftey
margin. Eventually I want to swap out the front too. THis truck has a
lot of sentimental value, and even though it has been an extreme pain
in the A$$, I don't want to just give it up. It would probably be
eaiser to get a 79 3/4 or 1 ton and build it, but then the truck
wouldn't mean as much to me.

About the similar axles, I have looked for a D60 Full floater, and have
found no junkyards here that have them. (the 10.25 is a rare find as
well up here) None of these guys will find stuff either (kinda sucks,
if someone is willing to buy a part, then find it and sell it to them,
I think alot of the problem is the shipping costs for stuff up here, it
is really expensive to get stuff up here, i.e. $275 shipping for $200
worth of leaf springs) Since a *new to me new truck* is out of the
question right now, I want to have a little fun with my current ride.

I got word of a 10.25 for cheaper than that also, but shipping is
turning out to be a real problem again :-|

Thanks,
Casey Vandor
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/
83 F-250 4X4
75 W-200 4X2

>>>>>>>
Uhmmm, what's wrong witht he Dana? That's one tough axle, available ina
wide variety of trucks and even some cars (back when).
It's possible to cut mounts off one and weld them on the other. They
might be the same. You might have to get the driveshaft length chaged.
As that commercial for a Detroit area drive-through restaurant used to
say: "Ka-CHING!". - --
>>>>>>>
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 14:10:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Vandor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 1986 351W

No problem thanks for the reply. I will keeps my eyes open. (get real
odd looks when you start scoping out other trucks on how there axles
are mounted, and when you ask them about what manifold/carb their
runnin....)

Casey Vandor
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/
83 F-250 4x4
75 W-200 4x2

>>>>>>>>>>>>
Can't really help you. I rebuilt the engine this winter, boring
20over,
adding a modified cam, timing chain, and high-volume oil pump. Since
Iwas
building for torque and high RPM was not an issue, I left the fuel &
ignition systems stock.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 14:19:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Vandor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 460 in a 1984

Keep us posted on what you find out! I have the 83 with a 351W and
granny t-18. Eventually I want a 460 in there also. I would be very
interested in what you find out. I do know Advanced Adapters makes all
sorts of stuff for this. I don;t have their address off hand, I will
look through my paper work though and see what I find.

Thanks
Casey Vandor
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 15:38:59 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 84 F-250 460 conversion

>From: Jgearhead aol.com
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - 84 F-250 460 conversion
>
> I have an 84 F-250 with a well used 351W
>and granny 4sp. I also have a rebuilt 73 460
>that would look great in my truck. I have heard
>that 390 pickup motor mounts will work on this
>conversion, and I can use a 390 flywheel and
>351M bell housing and keep my granny 4
>speed? Has anyone done this conversion
>and what can I expect?

Yo Jgearhead:

The 460 was an option in 1984, so you should be able to find the stock 460
mounts pretty easily, either at a junkyard or at a dealer. Since the 390 was
never installed in Ford trucks after the 1976 model year, I don't think you'll
find 390 mounts that will work in your frame. I believe that the flywheels are
different, too. Again, it should be easy to find a 460 flywheel.

You can use a bell housing from either a 351M, 400, or 460. Both 4-speed
transmissions (Warner and New Process) used behind all of these engines used the
same mounting between the transmission and bell housing.

I haven't done this conversion myself, so I can't give you any more details.

Dave R (M-block devotee)


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 14:48:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: bill jiminez
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - engine mods

I had the same question about a month ago, and got a lot of good
responses. I have an 84 ford bronco with the I6 300 and wanted to
pull some more horsepower out of it. Pretty much every reply I got
pointed me to clifford. Clifford specializes in inline 4's and 6's and
has a really good manufacturing line. I spent the $5.00 and ordered
their catalog from their web page. They make a mixture of headers and
intake setups for the 300, and also tell you exactly what kind of mods.
are needed to the existing stock setup. They give you exact part
numbers for the carbs as well, and also make intakes that incorporate
the stock EGR setup making it a little easier of a migration. Their
web page is www.cliffordperformance.com. Hope this helped.

Bill Jiminez
- --- christopher niels barker wrote:
> i have a 91 f150 with a 300 straight six and i am
> interested in modifying
> the engine for greater performance. however, i have
> heard that certain
> modifications can confuse the control module. this
> i definately do not
> want. also, FoMoCo seems to have forgotten this
> engine when producing
> performance parts. does anyone have any suggestions
> as to what i can do
> and where i can look for parts?
> also does anyone know where, besides ford, i can
> look for replacement body
> parts (especially for the bed)?
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 17:59:21 -0400
From: Greg Carter
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Ford 10.25

If the brakes are good than it is probably worth 400US (but that too is a
bit high), but only if it will drop right in, if you have to weld I would
try to factor that into your 'offer' price. I have been told it will drop
right in, but before you buy I would measure the distance from the leaf pad
to leaf pad and from shock mount to shock mount and make sure it will fit.

I recently priced one here, in Canadian dollars most junk yards (the bigger
well organized ones) wouldn't let one go for under 500 CND (~ 330 US), most
were in the 650 CND (430 US).

Instead of going this route I put a want ad in the local truck trader. I
got a reply and picked one up (brakes shot, actually most of the pieces were
missing) for 150, then got a call the next day and that guy only wanted $50
for it (doh!). In my case I new it was going to fit since I have '91.

If there is no rush I would try placing a want ad and see what comes up.

Also is this a 4x4? If so you'll have to match the gears to whats in the
front...
Bye.



> ----------
> From: Casey Vandor[SMTP:casey_vandor yahoo.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 5:05 PM
> To: Ford Truck" List
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Ford 10.25
>
> About the similar axles, I have looked for a D60 Full floater, and have
> found no junkyards here that have them. (the 10.25 is a rare find as
> well up here) None of these guys will find stuff either (kinda sucks,
> if someone is willing to buy a part, then find it and sell it to them,
> I think alot of the problem is the shipping costs for stuff up here, it
> is really expensive to get stuff up here, i.e. $275 shipping for $200
> worth of leaf springs) Since a *new to me new truck* is out of the
> question right now, I want to have a little fun with my current ride.
>
> I got word of a 10.25 for cheaper than that also, but shipping is
> turning out to be a real problem again :-|
>
> Thanks,
> Casey Vandor
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/
> 83 F-250 4X4
> 75 W-200 4X2
>
> >>>>>>>
> Uhmmm, what's wrong witht he Dana? That's one tough axle, available ina
> wide variety of trucks and even some cars (back when).
> It's possible to cut mounts off one and weld them on the other. They
> might be the same. You might have to get the driveshaft length chaged.
> As that commercial for a Detroit area drive-through restaurant used to
> say: "Ka-CHING!". - --
> >>>>>>>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> >
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:26:17 -0500
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Intermitent problem with starter

I totally forgot to add check the electrical first.....sorry.
I did have loose wiring on the solenoid and that was the problem, showed
signs of arcing around the terminal.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Harris, Scott
> Sent:Tuesday, April 20, 1999 11:10 PM
> To:'80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject:RE: FTE 80-96 - Intermitent problem with starter
>
> Possibilities: Missing teeth on starter or flywheel causing it to be out
> of
> alignment just a hair where the hood slam fixes it.
>
> Or the housing around the starter gear is broken(happened to me) and gets
> crooked inside jamming the teeth.
>
> Your lights going dim mean there is a load going to the starter and
> getting
> backed up, it's trying to spin but something is interfering with it.
>
> A couple of places to start anyway....If it's easy to pull your starter
> now
> do it....even if it is a pain because it's easier to do than change the
> flywheel!(my luck).
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Ponsford [mailto:mponsfor uvic.ca]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 1999 5:38 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Intermitent problem with starter
>
>
> This has happend to me three times in the last 6 months or so. I go to
> start the engine and all I get is a loud clank sound as the starter
> engages? but nothing else. If I return the key to the off position and try
> again there is no sound and all my dash lights dim while the key is in the
> crank position. Get out, open the hood, slam it closed and try again. It
> starts!!
>
> What gives? Is my starter kaput?
>
> Opps. Sorry for second post but forgot to include => '88 F150 w/302
>
>
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