80-96-list-digest Tuesday, April 20 1999 Volume 03 : Number 111



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - EEC-IV Codes
Re: FTE 80-96 - EEC-IV Codes
FTE 80-96 - Re: 1979 F350
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 1979 F350
RE: FTE 80-96 - EEC-IV Codes
FTE 80-96 - Ford 10.25
Re: FTE 80-96 - EEC-IV Codes
Re: FTE 80-96 - Lot to learn
Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery
Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery
FTE 80-96 - Throttle Position Sensor
FTE 80-96 - fuel filters
FTE 80-96 - RE: Leaking Carb Filter Fitting
Re: FTE 80-96 - Please Read
Re: [FTE 80-96 - aerostar noises]
Re: [FTE 80-96 - Pinging noise]

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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 15:29:25 -0700
From: Eric Sneed
Subject: FTE 80-96 - EEC-IV Codes

Hey Group,
pulled codes out of my truck yesterday and came up with the following:

67 Park/Neutral circuit fault - PNP
Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit - Transmissions
(M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault - PNP

32 EVR - EVP signal is/was low - EVR

In the book(haynes) it says that for all codes given a number of things
could cause these codes to be stored in the computer.
I'm looking for anyone's experience with these codes and the possible
causes

Thanks in advance
Eric
1989 F150 XLT Lariat 4X4 4.9L 4sp SB SWB
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 16:23:47 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - EEC-IV Codes

Eric Sneed wrote:

> Hey Group,
> pulled codes out of my truck yesterday and came up with the following:
>
> 67 Park/Neutral circuit fault - PNP
> Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit - Transmissions
> (M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault - PNP

This one is the netral safety switch.

>
>
> 32 EVR - EVP signal is/was low - EVR

The EGR valve or the sensor going bad will cause this one. The sensor sets
on top of the EGR Valve.


>
>
> In the book(haynes) it says that for all codes given a number of things
> could cause these codes to be stored in the computer.
> I'm looking for anyone's experience with these codes and the possible
> causes
>
> Thanks in advance
> Eric
> 1989 F150 XLT Lariat 4X4 4.9L 4sp SB SWB
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Good Luck

Bob


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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 16:20:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Vandor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 1979 F350

Ohh if I had money.... I wouldn't get rid of it (personal opinion).
Solid front end.... Full floater in the rear (guessing) C-6...... beats
the hell out of a ttb 44, semi 60.... That would make an excellent
resto or heavyduty work truck.

>>>>>>>
Greetings,I have a 1979 F350 4x4 I am trying to get rid of. It seems
the motor
is shot. Anyway, it's got Dana 60 front and rear, C6 trans and other
select goodies. Any recommendations on how I should try and sell
thisstuff off.
Thanks,Jack
>>>>>>>

Casey Vandor
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/
83 F-250 4X4
75 W-200 4X2
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 19:28:53 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 1979 F350

yeah Jack how much ya want for the truck and where are ya?
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 16:48:34 -0700
From: Eric Sneed
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - EEC-IV Codes

Thanks, the nuetral saftey switch prevents the engine froming turning
over untill the clutch is pushed all the way in correct? So if my truck
turns over but won't start, the this switch is not preventing my truck
from starting is it?

Thanks in advance

Eric

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Bob Kennedy [SMTP:bobkennedy uswest.net]
> Sent:Monday, April 19, 1999 4:24 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - EEC-IV Codes
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >
>
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 17:19:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Vandor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Ford 10.25

I have a friend at a local chevron station. He has access to a Ford
10.25 (non abs, one wheel wonder..) It is off a later model 3/4 ton
that got t-boned pretty good (if that would rack an axle to much I
don't know). He wants $500 for the axle. I havn't been able to have
it checked (i am guessing they pull the shafts and check, look at the
bearings.. not exactly sure). Asuming no rebuild is required, is $500
bucks worth it? I am tightly strapped for cash right now, but if its a
good deal.... I havn't physically seen it yet, (probably early next
week) anything important to look for offhand?

Next question: I am currently runing a semi floating D60. How do the
shock mounts compare for the D60 and For 10.25? Same, or am I going to
have to pay someone to weld some new ones on. Is it possible to cut
the old off the D60 and weld the clips to the axle? I am guessing the
spring mounts are the same.

Thanks again, and again.... seems like I get way more than I am able to
give on this list.

Casey Vandor
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/
83 F-250 4x4
75 W-200 4X2

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 17:46:46 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - EEC-IV Codes

No, it would prevent the starter from engaging only. The other code will
have a rough run/idle condition. Neither should prevent it from starting if
it's turning over.

Bob


Eric Sneed wrote:

> Thanks, the nuetral saftey switch prevents the engine froming turning
> over untill the clutch is pushed all the way in correct? So if my truck
> turns over but won't start, the this switch is not preventing my truck
> from starting is it?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Eric
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bob Kennedy [SMTP:bobkennedy uswest.net]
> > Sent: Monday, April 19, 1999 4:24 PM
> > To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - EEC-IV Codes
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> >
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 23:18:13 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Lot to learn

In a message dated 4/19/99 2:43:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, baldwin ti.com
writes:


pulling around that much weight. >>

Dave,
On the gas....off the gas I was running 17.2-16.8 at best. I have built my
motor to be run with a power adder. Supercharger is in the works...but I
kinda like the gas. Its not as Taboo as it used to be. As long as I have the
fuel pressure and flow I can run up to a 150 horsepower shot without too much
more work. Any more than 150 hp, I'll have to have the heads cut for a
Lokring gasket so it can hold more pressure. Regardless, I'll have to up my
intank pumps or add an inline pump to hit it any harder with the gas. I am
also going to get a bigger Massair meter, 24lb injectors(possibly 30lb) and
an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to make sure I have enough fuel...I
don't want to blow up all my hard work!
Anyone I have talked to says I should have been running faster than I was,
being all the work I have done. But I chose a mid-high Rpm range power band
cam. The E303 has a power band running from 2500-6000 rpm...most trucks use
the 1000-3500 rpm power band mostly. So that is where the power adder comes
in ...the gas gets me from 2nd gear to 3rd and into the main power band of
the cam very quickly so I can use the power I have built. And I may have to
take a little longer to get up to speed with a really heavy load...but once I
get it rolling I can keep it going. I believe I have the best of both worlds,
pretty good torque and great horsepower in the mid to upper ranges.
And to add to the launch/tirespin problems.. I have just purchased a set of
BFGoodrich ET Street slicks. They will help IMMENSELY off the line at any rpm
and will probably hold the NOx from the tree to victory.
Sadly I am on call this week so I wont get to try out the slicks until next
week. But as soon as I do, I'll let you all know how much better the numbers
are.
Later,
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 23:25:11 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery

There should be a battery Isolator located someone in the system...probably
located close to the battery...should be a box that looks similar to an
ignition module with three terminals on it. One goes to the battery..one to
the alternator, and one to the aux. battery. It lets the alternator charge
both batteries without overloading itself or the batteries.These used to be a
common addition on car stereo systems with 2 batteries, but they are so
unreliable that most competitors are now using dual output alternators, same
pretense just more power and less of a chance for failure.
I hope this helps
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 20:45:53 -0700
From: "Mike"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery

Its been a while but as remember. The isolator took the place of the aux
solenoid. The battery isolator acted like a big diode allowing the current
to flow in one direction only. An isolator and a aux solenoid should not be
on the same system as they both serve the same purpose...But I may be
wrong...Mike

- -----Original Message-----
From: FLR150 aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, April 19, 1999 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 E150 Aux Battery


>There should be a battery Isolator located someone in the system...probably
>located close to the battery...should be a box that looks similar to an
>ignition module with three terminals on it. One goes to the battery..one to
>the alternator, and one to the aux. battery. It lets the alternator charge
>both batteries without overloading itself or the batteries.These used to be
a
>common addition on car stereo systems with 2 batteries, but they are so
>unreliable that most competitors are now using dual output alternators,
same
>pretense just more power and less of a chance for failure.
>I hope this helps
>Wayne Foy
>'94 Flareside SC
>"Hazardous Material"
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>

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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 22:45:57 -0500
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Throttle Position Sensor

Hey John L.,

Did you have a performance cam put in it? My mechanic said he needed to
know what type of driving I would be doing so he wouldn't put the incorrect
one in. He said if it wasn't the correct one, the engine wouldn't idle
right, it would surge up and down as it searched for the right setting.
This is my best theory so far but I am looking for other solutions that are
easier to fix first. I had a Lunati cam performance put in mine. It will
get up and go but the idle sucks.
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 22:52:39 -0500
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - fuel filters

I'm sure that it varies truck to truck but I can tell when my filter is
going when I get hard on it accelerating. I can feel a slight stutter but
that's the only problem. Change the filter and the problem is solved.
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 01:23:24 EDT
From: SEMIENG1 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Leaking Carb Filter Fitting

Dennis:

I have not posted before but thought I may be able to help with this one.
The fuel line and carb set up sounds similar to the one I have in an 83
Mustang GT with the 302 and 4180 Holley carb. Also had leaking filter
problem that would manifest itself in the same manner. Found that as I
tightened the fuel line nuts, the metal fuel line would push against the
intake manifold. This would put a load on the fuel line filter nut in the
counterclockwise direction. Due to engine heating/cooling cycles and
vibration, the larger nut that actually goes into the front bowl would loosen
up and leak fuel.

Try tightening the nut that holds the filter into the carb bowl first. Get
it good and snug. Then hold the fuel line up away from the intake manifold
as you tighten the fitting on the end of the fuel line into the fuel filter
nut. After it is snug, make sure the fuel line is not contacting the intake
manifold. This solved my problem and I hope it does yours also.

Tim
(1995 Supercab XLT 4X4)

- -----------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 22:17:16 -0700
From: "Dennis R. Fischer"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - In-carb fuel filter leak

Re: 1986 351W with 4-barrel

My truck is equipped with a carb that has a built-in fuel filter. The
problem is, the fuel filter nut refuses to remain tight, which causes a gas
leak. It loosens up by itself after being securely tightened. This
loosening effect occurs about every 500-1000 miles.

The gas line routes from the fuel pump, across the front of the block. It
then travels across the top of the intake manifold and fastens to the carb.

Any solutions will be gratefully accepted.



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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 22:36:33 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Please Read

Where are you located?

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jack TheDog
To: ford truck
Date: Monday, April 19, 1999 11:08 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Please Read


>Greetings,
>I have a 1979 F350 4x4 I am trying to get rid of. It seems the motor
>is shot. Anyway, it's got Dana 60 front and rear, C6 trans and other
>select goodies. Any recommendations on how I should try and sell this
>stuff off.
>Thanks,
>Jack
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
> >
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>

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------------------------------

Date: 20 Apr 99 00:13:52 PDT
From: William Berninghausen
Subject: Re: [FTE 80-96 - aerostar noises]

Victor L Moran wrote:


> I'm trying to figure my gas milage to use that as a tool also. If anyo=
ne
> has a good trick to measuring milage please post.
> =

> Thanks.
> Victor.
> =


*******************************************

Victor:

I don't know anything about Aerostars, but I can tell you how to measure =
your
mileage. =


Fill the tank, letting the pump shut itself off. STOP THERE. Write down=
your
odometer reading. Drive until the gauge tells you to get gas. Fill the =
tank
again, STOPPING WHEN THE PUMP SHUTS OFF. Write down your odometer reading=
=2E
Let's say the second fill is 10 gallons exactly and you drove 150 miles. =
150
miles divided by 10 gallons is 15 miles per gallon, not bad in any of the=

vehicles we all have. =


The trick is using the same pump, if possible, since they're not all the =
same.
I guess you could fill up to the neck--the important thing is to measure=
your
miles travelled with a known amount of gas. In Oregon, we're not allowed=
to
pump our own gas (hush--all states have some peculiarities--we don't have=
a
sales tax either--go figure), so I generally measure over five tankfuls t=
o
average out the attendant's variations. =


BTW, my 82 F100 300/6 is averaging about 16.6--anybody have any ideas whe=
ther
that's good or not?

Bill

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Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webm=
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------------------------------

Date: 20 Apr 99 00:20:00 PDT
From: William Berninghausen
Subject: Re: [FTE 80-96 - Pinging noise]

"Anthony Trantham" wrote:
> This is kinda bizar. I have a '92 F-250 with a 351; 5-speed. I have t=
his
> pinging noise that is driving me up the wall. This past weekend I star=
ted
> looking into what it might be. To me it didn't seem like the valves. =
It
> doesn't do it when you are going up a slight hill mostly when you chang=
e
> gears an coasting down a hill. Someone once told me that a EGR value c=
ould
> cause that. So I unplugged the Green vacum line. Well as I expected t=
he
> check engine light came on an it still did it, but when I plugged it ba=
ck up
> it quit. Whats the deal? Any ideas?
> =

> Thanks in Advance,
> Anthony
> =

> =

***************************
The best way to get a ping is to lean out the mixture, advance the timing=
, and
disable the EGR valve. You don't have a carb, you didn't mess with the t=
iming
....

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