80-96-list-digest Monday, April 19 1999 Volume 03 : Number 109



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - 300-6 water flow
FTE 80-96 - Ovr load sprngs
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Web site updates
Re: FTE 80-96 - Ovr load sprngs
RE: FTE 80-96 - ladder racks
FTE 80-96 - stalls on deceleration
FTE 80-96 - In-carb fuel fitler leak

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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 11:06:05 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 300-6 water flow

You left the waterpump out. The cool water coming out of the radiator is
pulled into the waterpump and pushed into the engine by the waterpump. The
rest of your deal is correct. Also, gang, remember that the heater core
serves as the "bypass" around a closed thermostat on this engine. If you
disconnect the heater (for eample, if it springs a leak) don't just plug
the heater hoses; make it loop around back into the engine.

At 23:41 17/04/99 EDT, you wrote:
>no its engine the water flows through the bottom of the radiator through the
>engine out to the thermostat through the upper hose into the radiator and
>cycles around like that
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>
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 17:39:21 EDT
From: LHopk99567 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Ovr load sprngs

What can I do for overload springs on a 76 F250 4X4?
Is there some additional spring leaves that will work?
Who has successfully done this?
My son is going to put a camper on his plow truck.
Dick
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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 21:35:18 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Web site updates

- - Ford press release added to news section
- - Following added to pictorial:
1948 F6 fire engine
1956 F100
1956 F100
1966 F350
1985 F150 XLT Lariat 4x4
1995 F150 XLT
1996 F250 HD
1999 F350 Superduty Crewcab
- - Several links added to links sections

Later,
Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 23:18:44 EDT
From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Ovr load sprngs

there are air lifts that allow compinsation on towing....helper springs that
are also available...pepboys and etc...
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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 23:32:41 -0400
From: "D. Pashley"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - ladder racks

Hi Scottie,
Did a lot of searching but I couldn't find any pictures of wood ladder racks
on the web. Here in Maine we build a lot of them from wood especially
pressure treated because it doesn't rust. Your dimensions look OK but
remember, measure twice and cut once.
If your dad's bed liner covers the stake pocket holes check with him and see
if it's OK to enlarge the holes over the stake pockets to take some wood
uprights. If it is OK enlarge the holes to the size of the holes in the
truck and fit four uprights in the holes. A 2X6 or a 4X4 is usually used
here and it should be long enough to extend about 2" above the height of the
crossbars. This will prevent the ladder from sliding off if it isn't tied on
real tight. If you use a 2x6 set them so the narrow side faces front. You
can use a table saw to remove the wood that won't fit in the stake pocket.
After you get the 4 posts in place consider running a piece of 5/4" radiused
pressure treated decking 6" wide along the edge of the box and bolting it to
the two uprights. Square the bottom edge by ripping it on a table saw then
put some foam weather strip tape on this bottom edge so it won't scratch the
paint This will strengthen the uprights and protect the edge of the box. Now
bolt your cross bars in place at the proper height and you will be just
about done. More of the 6" X 5/4" pressure treated decking can be used for
the crossbars. If you plan to carry a lot of ladders think about using two
crossbars 1 in front and 1 behind each upright. You should add a brace at a
45 degree angle from each upright down to the boards on top of the box to
brace the whole unit. (if you look at it from the side it will look a little
like a big "V"). Use carriage bolts with a flat washer and lock washer under
each nut, two per joint for each joint. Screws will work loose over time and
you can always tighten the bolts as needed. Also you will need to run some
hefty sheet metal screws through the side of the stake pockets from inside
the bed. Use galvanized screws with washers under the head as they will help
to hold the bed liner in place as well.
If you can't get at the stake pocket holes put the uprights inside the bed.
Use the same horizontal boards flat on the edge of the bed plus one across
the front next to the rear window of the cab. Use long screws or bolts to
hold the uprights tight to the inside of the cab. In the front the
horizontal braces will keep the upright in position. In the back run some
bolts into the side of the body at least two per side. You can usually get
to the backside of the bolts to install the nuts by removing the taillights.
Also it's a good idea to do this first (removing the taillights) and make
sure you aren't going to hit anything vital with a drill bit. Use the same
braces and crossbars as I suggested above. Good Luck.

- -----Original Message-----
From:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of Scottie Schmidt
Sent:Saturday, April 17, 1999 9:48 AM
To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject:FTE 80-96 - ladder racks

Hi,
Would like to build father and grandfather ladder racks for their
trucks. They both need and will need them badly. Father has a 93
F-150 XL. And grandfather does not have anything yet but will most
likely getting a F-150 4x4. I am currently mainly concentraiting on
my fathers truck.
It has a 8 foot bed, and a bedliner. For now we are going to make it
out of would till we get the tools to make a nice steel one. I took
some measurements, please tell me what you think about them! If I am
correct, from the floor of the bed to about 2 inches above the cab is
4 feet. The bed is just about 6 feet wide. And from the back of the
truck to the front is 12 feet long.
If those measurements are correct I believe I will need the following
lumber for sure.
4 - four footers (for the "legs", will be going up and down in the
corners of the bed.
4 - six footers (for the top of the rack to go left to right, to put
the equipment on)
2 - twelve footers for the two sides (will attach to the 4 legs, and
will attach the 6 footers to them.)

I am still looking for better designs, and better ideas of how to make
it. If anybody has any good webpages for this kind of stuff, please
let me know ASAP!
Thanks,
Scottie Schmidt JR.



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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 00:13:12 EDT
From: craig n eggerman
Subject: FTE 80-96 - stalls on deceleration

I've got an 89 EFI that starts and runs fine but it will stall when
decelerating from highway speed down to a stop. Any clues sd yo what is
causing this. No check engine light or trouble codes.
Craig
Eggerman juno.com
Casper,Wyoming
O|||||O

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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 22:17:16 -0700
From: "Dennis R. Fischer"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - In-carb fuel fitler leak

Re: 1986 351W with 4-barrel

My truck is equipped with a carb that has a built-in fuel filter. The
problem is, the fuel filter nut refuses to remain tight, which causes a gas
leak. It loosens up by itself after being securely tightened. This
loosening effect occurs about every 500-1000 miles.

The gas line routes from the fuel pump, across the front of the block. It
then travels across the top of the intake manifold and fastens to the carb.

Any solutions will be gratefully accepted.



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End of 80-96-list-digest V3 #109....


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