80-96-list-digest Wednesday, January 6 1999 Volume 03 : Number 001



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR Probs & ANTIFREEZE Odor
Re: FTE 80-96 - Mile Marker Hubs
Re: FTE 80-96 - Spark Plugs... Help!
RE: FTE 80-96 - Spark Plugs... Help!
RE: FTE 80-96 - Hard Start Problem with '86 Bronco II
FTE 80-96 - Hard Start Problem with '86 Bronco II
FTE 80-96 - Re: Clutch Hydraulics & Cold Weather
Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR Probs & ANTIFREEZE Odor
FTE 80-96 - re: cutting out computer
FTE 80-96 - Re:F-150 Brakes

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Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 20:02:57 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR Probs & ANTIFREEZE Odor

Joe,
The only time I had any kind of bubbles blowing back into my coolant reservoir
was when I had a blown head gasket. It its not blown on the intake side which
would cause it to let the water go back into the oil. It would be blown on the
exhaust side which may cause the symptoms you are experiencing. Check the
coolant bottle while revving up the motor. If the frequency of the bubbles
increases then I would have to say its time to do a head gasket change.
Wayne Foy
'94 F150 Flareside Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/auto/index.htm
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Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 22:11:16 -0500
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Mile Marker Hubs

Rick Wojciechowski wrote:

> Gang(s),

- -------snip---------

> Who the hell would use light duty hubs.
>

- ----snip----

GM owners, of course!!!!!!!!


Later,
Brew

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Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 22:51:32 EST
From: WoodStck45 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Spark Plugs... Help!

Chris,

It that were my truck, i would never put ford motor craft plugs in it again.
They will probably cost twice as much as any other plug and still do the same
job. I have found that the "Champion Truck Plug" is the best one yet. I am
not a certified mechanic or anything but i do know a piston from a pushrod.
Just go to Walmart or Autozone and use there catalog or electronic finder to
find the correct type of "Champion Truck Plug" for your truck. The plugs
should already be "pre-gapped" but i would check the gap with a feeler gauge
just to be sure.

Paul

Owner of 1991 Ford F-250 Pick-up 7.5L (460 c.i.) EFI
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Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 21:56:41 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Spark Plugs... Help!

Chris-

Let me answer the second question first: gap the plugs to what it says on
the sticker under the hood. The dealer did, but over the 35 k miles that
the plugs were in there, the electrodes wore away slightly. That's why you
measured them at 0.052". Platinum plugs erode away more slowly, so stay
closer to correct gap longer. Too easy to oil foul with an old engine,
though, and then not worth the extra cost. Great in new engines!

First question: I don't have access to a cross-reference book here. They
are probably ok. I always use Motorcraft. Slightly longer (if only
_slightly_ longer) should not interfere with piston.

Chris wrote:
"I ran into a bit of a situation while changing the spark plugs in my 95
with the 5.8 engine. The manual calls for motorcraft ASF-32C plugs. I
ran down to Pep Boys and picked up some Champion Truck plugs. They
parts counter guy gave me Champion plugs #4018. They looked the same so
off I went.

Last night I pulled the first plug and compared it to the champions.
The champions are very similar, yet the electrode seems to be slightly
longer, resulting in a slightly longer plug overall. It is a tiny
difference, but still makes me wonder. Has anyone used non-motorcraft
plugs and had a similar problem? I am not sure if I should just toss
them in. Anyone had any experience with the truck plugs, or have a
recommendation for another brand/type?

Lastly, the plug I took out (put in by a dealer at 30k miles, now at
65k) was gapped to .052. The sticker under the hood says .042-.045. Is
this the correct gap?"


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 23:18:12 -0500
From: "R. Kent Cripps"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Hard Start Problem with '86 Bronco II

Been there... I have an '81 F150 w/ 302 auto. I had similar cold weather
starting problems. Mine was so bad that it wouldn't even start when being
boosted (-20 degrees F). This was cured by replacing the ground from the
battery to the block. To confirm whether this is the problem, you can use
your booster cables to short from the battery ground to the block. Make sure
that the connection is good at both ends and that the cable is clear of the
moving parts. Then try to start it. If it turns over faster, then the ground
is at least part of the problem. Replace the ground cable anyway. It's cheap
and easy to replace (


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Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 13:15:36 -0500
From: Dave Slotter
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hard Start Problem with '86 Bronco II

Hi. I have a 1986 manual Bronco II with 2.9L V6 EFI engine and now that the
weather is much colder - approximately 15 degrees F this morning, the truck
does not want to start. If I crank it on and off for about half an hour I
can get it to start. Obviously this is not a situation I want to be in.

Fuel:

There is sufficient gas in the tank - no detectable leaks - but detecting
fuel leaks is difficult business anyway. After turning over the engine for
a while I do smell gas, so I am flooding it after a point. So I think that
gas is probably getting into the cylinder.

Air:

There are no obstructions in the air pathway to the engine.

Spark/Electric:

All this turning over finally put the nails in the coffin for my old
battery. I bought a new battery with 625 cranking amps and 500+ cold
cranking amps. This is quite sufficient. I have recently put in new spark
plug wires including coil wire, new spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor.
I have not pulled out the #1 plug yet and confirmed spark, but I will be
sure to do this.

More Info:

Since the cylinders don't seem to fire until after I crank it on and off a
while, I doubt this is a computer problem, but in case someone thinks that
might be a problem, I can tell you that during a Key On Engine Off (KOEO)
test I get a code (62?) saying my coolant temperature sensor is bad. Could
this be the culprit keeping my truck from starting?

I have recently replaced the O2 sensor, MAP sensor, ACT sensor and have
confirmed all are operating properly. I also recently replaced the Coolant
Temperature Sensor and believe it is *not* working properly. In fact, I
think the old Coolant Temperature Sensor may be ok. Timing was recently
reset to 10 degrees BTDC and this time the SPOUT was disconnected when it
was done.

The truck starts much better in warm weather.

I welcome all advice on solving this problem. I am not a mechanic type
(yet) although I am learning these things slowly. Computers and electronics
are more my style, so doing computer checks and wiring diagnoses are more
my style.

Thank you.

- - -Dave
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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 00:21:43 -0500
From: Ben Havens
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hard Start Problem with '86 Bronco II

>Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 13:15:36 -0500
>From: Dave Slotter
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hard Start Problem with '86 Bronco II
>
>Hi. I have a 1986 manual Bronco II with 2.9L V6 EFI engine and now that the
>weather is much colder - approximately 15 degrees F this morning, the truck
>does not want to start. If I crank it on and off for about half an hour I
>can get it to start. Obviously this is not a situation I want to be in.


Ah, memories - cold ones. I had that truck. First winter with it, had that
same problem too. Actually not only would mine be hard to start sometimes,
but other times it would start just fine and die 5 minutes down the road,
and refuse to restart. Real cool. Ford service could not figure it out
because they could not duplicate the prob. Let them keep it overnight even
and of course it didn't happen for them. No codes either. They did blind
fixes like replace the dist. cap & wires, replaced the fuel pump relay, but
that did not help. The "shutdown" only happened 2 or 3 times, but the hard
starting happened quite often. But the second winter I had the truck, it
did not do it hardly at all. Only rarely would it take a lot of cranking
(like 10-15 sec.), but it would light and run OK, and no shutdowns. And it
never happened in warm weather.
Never did figure out what caused it, unfortunately. Guess that is not much
help to you!! In hindsight it seems like it could have had something to do
with the TFI module, but am not sure. I think when they go bad they stay
bad, and I think it is due to heat not cold. Just a suggestion, though.

Ben



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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 01:17:37 -0500
From: "msalvetti"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Clutch Hydraulics & Cold Weather

Dave Baldwin asked me:

>Does the non-synchro reverse grind when you engage at a stop? Try getting
>into any forward gear, and then (without letting the clutch engage) moving
>the shifter to reverse. The forward gear synchro will (should) stop the
>geartrain, and if the clutch is fully disengaged, it should not start
>spinning again. You should have a "crunch"-free transition into reverse.

>If you engage any forward gear, and then get crunching going into reverse,
>then I'd agree that you have a clutch disengagement problem. If it
doesn't,
>then it may be a cold weather lube viscosity problem.

Dave, I always engage a forward gear before reverse like you describe.
Seemed every manual transmission car I've had benefits from this, and I've
been doing it for years.

Anyway, no I don't get crunching into reverse now. But I think it's
because the disengaging problem is very minor. Before I replaced the
hydraulics about 18 months ago, the problem was so bad that I could have
the transmission in gear, the clutch pedal in, and there was enough drag to
hold the truck on a slight incline. And it did crunch into reverse.

I know I just need to turn the clutch master cylinder rod a couple of turns
and everything will be fine. That's what I had to do last winter. It just
bothered me that this would happen in the cold rather than when hot. I
think after all this bandwidth that it may just be coincidence, and I'm not
going to worry about it anymore.

Thanks again,

Mark Salvetti
1986 F150
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Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 22:47:55 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR Probs & ANTIFREEZE Odor

I don't know about the 300 I-6 but on the 302 there is a solenoid that
controls the amount of vacuum to the EGR valve. A check of your vacuum
schematic on the underhood sticker should show it. On the 302 it is on the
drivers side of the upper intake manifold, right next to a couple of similar
valves that control vacuum to the evap. canister and other components.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: JSC721 aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 9:51 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - EGR Probs & ANTIFREEZE Odor


>Hello Ford Truck Brothers,
>I am out of ideas, and need your help. 89 e-250 , 300 6 cyl 4.9 engine.I am
>getting a rough starting and idle ,comes and goes and an eye burning
exhaust
>smell.
>
>When I run the engine in diagnostic mode I get a code 33 ( egr valve
opening
>undetected) and a code 44 ( thermactor air system inoperative , right side)
>I checked the valve lubricated it and it works fine. I replaced the evp
sensor
>on the valve, due to another code telling me it was bad. Now, I get no
vacuum
>at all from the
>tube that goes to the egr valve.even at operating temp.
>
>There is a egr vacuum solenoid that is part of the vacuum system , can this
>part be bad? Also I am getting a bad antifreeze odor. no leaks
anywhere.new
>heater core also. when I turn off the engine i hear the anifreeze in the
fill
>bottle bubbling.any ideas guys. Thanks for your help.
>
>p.s. also new 02 sensor, coolant sensor, waterpump,thermostat,full tune
>up,fuel filter.radiator 2 years old.
>
> Joe JSC721
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Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 23:17:34 PST
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re: cutting out computer

I have the EEC III in my truck. From all my dealings with it, the
computer in mine is a little before it's time. Ford was on a good track
with the system, but I think if I could do it over again, I would look
for a slighty older truck w/o the computer or a slightly newer truck
with a more refined computer. I am not saying all computer controlled
stuff is bad, I am just saying that mine is one of the earlier ones with
computers any of the newer trucks a couple years down the line are
probably much better suited to be computer controlled.

Thanks,
Casey
>>>>>
Casey,why in the world would you want to do this? Do you know how the
thing even operates on your truck,or is it the fact that if its a
computer,it has to be a piece of unreliable crap? Sure,simplicity is
good,but so is efficiency.Simplicity will not pay you back in fuel
dollars saved,OTOH increased fuel efficiency will.That computer on the
EEC4 & 5 trucks monitors your fuel mixture,engine load, temperatures and
other data continuously every second it is in operation.Not
understanding how something works is not a good reason to throw it in
the garbage IMNSHO.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 22:11:39 -0900
From: "L WALTERS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:F-150 Brakes

A leaking axle seal or wheel cylinder will make them grabby. Talked to a....


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