80-96-list-digest Thursday, December 31 1998 Volume 02 : Number 432



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - HEATER CORES
FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96 Oil pump priming
FTE 80-96 - 300/6 buildup--Supercharger
FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96 Cold air vs. warmer air
Re: FTE 80-96 - My POS J**p
Re: FTE 80-96 - '92 F150 Heater Core Removal
FTE 80-96 - Lifting F250 4x4
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: List policy
FTE 80-96 - Re: P.S.D. Fuel Milage
FTE 80-96 - What's first year for EFI on 4.9 engine?
FTE 80-96 - 94 Ford F-150
FTE 80-96 - Careful Primin' the Pump
FTE 80-96 - rear disc conversion for 9" diff in F-100

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Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 07:26:24 -0700
From: "Ellsworth, Sam"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - HEATER CORES

For you heater core people out there, it would be a good idea also to
change your radiator cap when you do the heater core change.
sam ellsworth
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Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 06:38:04 -0800 (PST)
From: rokkinhorse webtv.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96 Oil pump priming

Since we are on this subject anyhow,I thought some of you might find
this interesting.I recently did a top-end rebuild on the 85 460 with the
engine out,all new gaskets,etc.We primed the oil pump as mentioned in an
earlier post,got it installed in the truck and all buttoned up and
prepared to start it.This 85 F250 has an electric fuel pump, carb and is
a 2-pipe fuel ststem(supply and return to the tank) with a pressure reg
valve.Anyhow,we go to start it and it won't fire.No fuel to the
carb...Hmmm,check fuel pump on the frame rail...it's doing nothing.Check
fuel pump relay,and it's OK.Kept looking and found a pressure switch
interlock at the back top of the engine that is electrically "open".(I
wondered what that was..) The purpose of the switch is to cut fuel if no
oil pressure is available.Think about it and it makes alot of sense in
the fact that it keeps you from destroying the engine if you run outta
oil.The significance of this switch as it pertains to a freshly rebuilt
engine is that constant cranking to build enough oil pressure to close
the switch will probably also assist you in wiping the assembly lube off
the cam;i.e. extended cranking.If ya know you have oil pressure to
everything before dropping the engine back in,jumper the switch out
before attampting to start the new engine.Allow it to come to temp
(keeping an eye on the oil pressure gauge),shut it off,reconnect the
switch,and it oughtta fire right back up.

Randy Goolsby,LaCenter,WA.94 Bronco EB 85 F-250 4X4"the Second
Amendment guarantees all the others"
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=47

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Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 06:41:12 PST
From: "Bryan Snyder"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 300/6 buildup--Supercharger

Dear Brandon,

I don't know of any kit made for the 300/6, but you could be the
first to pioneer one! The Kenne Bell SC is my personal favorite be cause
it is arguably the most efficient, quickest spooling one out there ,
especially when compared to the Paxtons, Vortechs etc. Unfortunately
putting a KB brand is not a reasonable goal due to it's design (made for
V engines only. This leaves you with three good options in my view. An
ATI procharger, which is like a paxton or Vortech but spools quicker and
is intercooled like a turbo (Paxton and Vortech now also have
intercoolers but as an add-on.) It mounts just like a paxton/Vortech
too. You could also go with a BBK Instacharger, VERY similar to the SCs
put on the now cancelled Ford Thunderbird turbo coupes. Almost as good
as a KB in my estimation and very durable (Major car makers use them
such as in the Ford T-birds, and many GM cars like the current Grand
Prix.) It gives you a few more options on how to mount it, looks kinda
like a "mini" blower of the 50s-60s. I'm sure you know that you can't
run much boost without lowering your compression or you will get lots of
engine killing detonation. Again a couple of options, lower comp
pistons, requires complete disassembly of engine, but at least you get
to inspect everything in the process and look for any probs. You could
get another head from a salvage yard and have the head chambers opened
up some to lower it also. This is handy in that you can change heads
back to stock if you later don't want the SC and you engine is as you
started. You will probably have to run 92-94 octane gas and run a new
comp chip to get best performance and to keep from blowing your engine.
The SC makers can advise you on more things you should consider. Keep in
mind depending on which way you go you may be running stock (weaker)
pistons and have to keep boost in mind, I would not go above 6 lbs in
your case. The engine should handle that no prob and with the long
stroke of the 300/6 you should have GOBS of torque! If you go more than
that either pull the engine or get another to send to a good machine
shop and go through fully with a balance and bluprint, new pistons,
maybe new heavier duty rods, ARP engine fasteners (bolts nuts and the
like as they are much stronger than stock and mandatory in this case.
Also, get a good header and exhaust as this should be among the first
things to be changed on any build-up, after-all, why build up a great
engine to just choke it off at the end?

I do hope this helps, and good luck,
Bryan Snyder

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 06:47:37 -0800 (PST)
From: rokkinhorse webtv.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96 Cold air vs. warmer air

If you are concerned about the temp of the air getting to the throttle
body or carb,remember a couple things.If the engine is cold,it has the
EGR to assist in warm-up at the throttle body or just below carb
base.Secondly, have you ever noticed that your engine seems more
responsive when it is operating in colder outside temps?I have,and the
reason is air density.You can pack more cold air into the cylinders than
warm air.Now an EFI engine has sensors that are gonna limit the effect
here,but should be noticable anyhow.Carbed engines don't "know" any
differently,and are going to meter a fixed amt of fuel at a given
throttle position, period.Just my twocents.

Randy Goolsby,LaCenter,WA.94 Bronco EB 85 F-250 4X4"the Second
Amendment guarantees all the others"
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=47

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Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 10:36:57 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - My POS J**p

Thanks for the info.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Randy
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 4:15 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - My POS J**p


>Rad,
>seems to me Summit and Jegs both sell the 4150, but could be wrong. I
know,
>you'd think I worked for these guys as much as I mention them, but nope.
>
>Later,
>Brew
>
>Radoje Spasojevic wrote:
>
>> Well after spending a couple of days working on my POS J**p I have
>> discovered that the previous owner or his mechanic should be shot. The
list
>> of screwed up things I will have to redo or replace is too long and
>> uninteresting to repeat here. How ever I do have a Ford related
>> question...the intake manifold is designed for a spead bore carb (the SPO
>> had a SQUARE bore 4 to 2 barrel adapter plate and 2bbl Holley carb atop
it).
>> Anyway the manual says that it was originally equipped with a Motorcraft
>> (Ford) 4150 4bbl carb. Where could I get one of these carbs? Is it any
>> good or is there a better replacement spread bore carb I can put on my
401?
>> I like the idea of have as much Ford parts as possible on this
>> thing..hopefully the quality will be absorbed by the J**p parts.
>>
>> Rade
>> Rade Spasojevic -- rspasoje gte.net
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.off -road. com /~2big/
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=194
>>
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>
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Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 14:10:13 -0500 (EST)
From: STHIBODE spf.fairchildsemi.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '92 F150 Heater Core Removal

For those who are working on the 80-86 heater core box, here's a tip...
remove the passenger side kickpanel vent (non AC) for access to that
troublesome nut, saves your paint when trying to remove the hood cowling...


>The final nut is a PAIN. Youhave to take off the hood cowling, then pull a
>rubber plug under it toreach down into the fresh-air-intake-place to remove the
>final nut. Iused a pair of vice grips with string tied around the handles
>toretrieve them after they got dropped many times. My hands with vicegrips
>barely fit into the hole, and had to go down to the elbow.


Steve
80 Bronco
85 F250 4x4
86 F150 XLT Lariat
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Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 13:29:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Graham Hinsdale
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Lifting F250 4x4

I am getting ready to install a 2.5 inch front(IFS) and 2 inch rear
lift kit in my 1990 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel.
Any tips, suggestions or advice?
Thanks,
Jack the Dog




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 16:35:12 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: List policy

Several things need to be addressed:

1. Lately there have been many posts in which people
have taken it upon themselves to be list vigilantes.
Complaints and comments about the posting practices
of others should be sent to the list admin
(herbie ford-trucks.com for small chassis, 97up
and performance lists and kpayne ford-trucks.com for
all others). Let the admins handle the policing of
policy, especially if you aren't sure what our
policy is. Such complaints cause just as much list
noise (if not more) than the issue being complained
about.

2. Read the FAQ before posting for the first time.
The subscription introduction email asks that new
members read the FAQ and gives the web address for
the FAQ. One of the issues addressed is off-topic
posts.

3. For the record: we don't require you to remove
quoted text in replies. Standard practice on most
mailing lists is to include a quote. Remember that
just because you may receive the digest version of
the list, others may not and do not have the same
continuity of topics. Quoting is very helpful to
non-digest members. However, please leave in only
quoted text that is relavent to your reply. A good
example of excessive quoting is sending a 2 line
reply with a 15 line quote.

4. Please limit the size of email signatures. This
problem is compounded when your email service (Yahoo,
Hotmail, etc) appends its signature below yours.

Ken Payne
Admin

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Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 22:35:49 GMT
From: peter.arnold.01 snet.net (Peter T. Arnold)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: P.S.D. Fuel Milage

I hate to discuss this, brings out the worst in all of us.=20
Would you like to hear about the size of the fish that I caught last
year. I didn't have any film fot that camara but it is;
T H I S B I G,=20
honest ;-)


BAck on subject, My '95 F-250, 2 wheel drive weighs 6,800 with me and
1/2 fuel load. =20
I get 19 MPG when empty with the Hammer down.
I get 12 MPG pulling my 12,000 lb 5th Wheel


Peter & Anne-Marie Arnold
While Waiting to Retire,=20
We Drag Our 31' Prowler 5th Wheel around the East Coast with our Ford
=46250 P.S.D.

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Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 20:55:25 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: FTE 80-96 - What's first year for EFI on 4.9 engine?

Can anyone tell me what the first year was for EFI on the 4.9 liter
straight-6 engine?

My neighbor (a high school student with limited funds) is looking for a
truck and we have found him a '88 with the 4.9 and 5-speed. Which
transmission will this be? is it any good? I don't want him to have to mess
with a lightweight unit that will break easily.

If anyone knows of a good clean truck for sale (F-150 or Ranger) within a
reasonable distance from Houston for $3,000 or less, please drop me a line.
This young man needs a reliable truck for work/school and I am going to try
to help him find one. He really needs a break -- he has had a lot of bad
luck in the past couple of years.

Thanks!

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 01:14:17 EST
From: SpyderLv81 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 94 Ford F-150

I need to know how much hp and torque the 302 in this model year puts out. I
need to know how much potential hp and torque it has also. How do the 4 wheel
drive units hold up on these? and how hard are they to raise because of the
ttb. The sooner the better because I want to buy this truck soon. Like New
years eve
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Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 23:14:09 -0900
From: "L WALTERS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Careful Primin' the Pump

When I was in college (many moons) this kid did a Caddy 500 cid for his
Engines Class (I stuck with a four cyl...easy&cheap).
The big Caddy has some $ dumped into it, poor guy, he "Packed" the oil pump
with Vasoline and no oil went anywhere on start-up. (another reason to do it
before install).
The use of Vasoline should be a coating on the pump gears, seems to help the
"Bench Priming".
There has been some good info here on the subject guys, thanx for sharing

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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 19:49:37 +1100
From: "Ian & Leah"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - rear disc conversion for 9" diff in F-100

I have a 1981 2WD F-100, running a 9" LSD (posi-traction I think it is
called in the US). The vehicle is actually a retired ambulance (so it is
like a big van), which is used for towing and servicing a pro-rally car in
Australia.

I would like to install, reasonably cheaply, rear discs and possibly a
proportioning valve if needed, to help in the stopping department,
especially when towing.

Getting parts from the US is not too much of a drama as I have
car-orientated relatives there. I have been told that late 70's lincoln
town cars had a 9" rear and swapping the discs and calipers off them is
possible with a minimum of machine work.

As F-100s are not that common here, getting info is not that easy, and....


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