80-96-list-digest Wednesday, December 23 1998 Volume 02 : Number 424



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Window motor
Re: FTE 80-96 - wires
RE: FTE 80-96 - 80-86 bed
FTE 80-96 - RE- Exhaust Upgrade
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Starting Problems
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 80-86 bed
FTE 80-96 - re - Window motor
Re: FTE 80-96 - Summit shipping
[none]
FTE 80-96 - RE: Starting Problems
FTE 80-96 - Late Mail? Re: Starting Problems
FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester
RE: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE- Exhaust Upgrade
FTE 80-96 - T5 identity
FTE 80-96 - Re:
FTE 80-96 - Aftermarket Exhaust
FTE 80-96 - re: wires
Re: FTE 80-96 - Aftermarket Exhaust

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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 05:01:41 PST
From: "joseph virga"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Window motor

Chris:

I experienced the same problem with my driver's side power window. You
do not have to replace the motor - providing it is good shape. The
problem is that the nylon / plastic gear is stripped. You can order a
power motor gear kit from Ford and if you are handy, install it
yourself. Keep in mind, if this is the first time the motor has been
serviced, you will have to drill out the rivets that secure the motor to
the door frame. Also, when reinstalling the assembly I would advise
using rivets or use bolts with lock washers - screws have the tendency
to loosen-up, especially in Bronco doors!.

Joe Virga





______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 08:56:04 -0500
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - wires

I see a lot of traffic on the list about ignition wires. I have a suggestion:
run the engine with the hood up at night with no lights (not easy to find these
days). With modern high energy ignition systems, you will see the sparks jumping
very easily. We did this with a neighbors Ford F250 and spotted a bad cable that
had defied his best efforts to diagnose a miss under load. (He had purchased
generic spark plug cables at a discount department store).

Mike

Randy Kindler wrote:

> >>You get what you pay for!
> >
> I spent a bunch of money on a set of Mallory wires, and then a couple of
> months later, I pulled my hair out trying to find the cause of a miss under
> load. It turned out to be a bad wire. I replaced that wire, and a few months
> later, I had the same problem with another wire. When I complained, Mallory
> suggested wrapping the boots with special insulating tape. They worked OK
> after that. It seemed like a lot of hassle for $100 wires, though. (I now
> run Taylor wires)
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



- --

- ------------
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)



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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 10:52:21 -0500
From: CONWAY pjm.com
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 80-86 bed

Actually, Hazleton is in NORTH East PA, not south east. Philadelphia is South
East.

Chuck Conway
conway pjm.com
PJM Interconnection LLC
Network and Platform Support


> -----Original Message-----
> From: ROlson1039 aol.com [SMTP:ROlson1039 aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, December 21, 1998 9:00 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 80-86 bed
>
> In Soouth east PA theres a great junkyard called Harrys U pull it in Hazleton
> you can find anything and i do mean ANYTHING in there
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 09:58:02 -0600
From: "Stephen W. Hansen"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE- Exhaust Upgrade

I did the exhaust swap just as you said you are thinking of. End results:
loss of low end and true pulling power, gain of top speed and cruising
ability. If I had to do it again I would leave the Cat converter on, as I
tow a little bit. The truck runs great, and it had no effect on the
computer. Just be sure you leave the O2 sensor in, (just before the cat
converter)
Steve

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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 10:52:20 EST
From: Bakend aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Starting Problems

Casey,
Yes, you should be able to crank for a long time with the jumper cables.
Providing the cables and connections to the batteries are good that is. You
should be able to crank long enough to cause some serious damage to the
starting system if you want! (Not recommended) Remember the fuse link you had
go bad? This was due to an over load on your system. It is still my guess that
you have a bad starter even though it is a "new" rebuild. On your budget, I
would try to borrow a known good starter and try it in your truck. You might
also try pulling the spark plugs and do the crank thing. I have had water get
into a cylinder and cause the symptoms similar to what you describe. Only in
that case, after I had turned it over a couple of times it pushed the water
out the exaust and then cranked fine.
Keep us informed of what you find
D Baken




In a message dated 12/22/98 4:11:15 AM Mountain Standard Time,
cvandor hotmail.com writes:

> Ok, went back to the truck yesterday. We dropped the multi-tester so it
> was of no use. We tried jumping it again out of curiosity. I can only
> get about 5-6 seconds worth of cranking out of that thing even while we
> are jumpiing it. Shouldn't I be able to crank longer with the other
> truck jumping mine? SO the battery is probably toast, will that keep
> the truck from starting (at least for a few seconds)? I am going home
> for christmas at the end of the week so should I even try a new battery
> or just get it towed? I would hate to buy another new battery and then
> have to tow it anyway (on a budget here)
>
>
>
> THanks,
>
> Casey
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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 10:03:00 -0600
From: "Stephen W. Hansen"
Subject: Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 80-86 bed

> I've noticed that one of the larger truck shops by me has TONS of stock
>parts taking up space on their lot. It's all new stuff too, since they do
>conversions for the dealerships in the area. I've no idea what kind of
>prices they're asking, but if somebody needs to know I could find out for
>- -Mike
Some of us would be very interested... If you could get some ruff est. on
beds, tailgates, tailgate covers bumpers, I would be interested. Where are
they at?
Steve

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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 10:11:28 -0600
From: "Stephen W. Hansen"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re - Window motor

>Simple problem for list ; My Driver side window motor seems to have bitten
>the dust at least that's how it seem - the motor runs every time the switch
>is depressed but the window doesn't go up,sometimes it actually falls some
>or jerks around but doesn't go up .If its the motor do anyone know a
>reliable source Thank you, Chris frm.Fl.

Open the door and look. during real cold weather I tried to lower mine and
the metal channel that fits in the bottom of the glass came off. Ford wanted
alot to fix it. I cleaned the two pieces up and used a good RTV or contact
glue. Use the dirt markings on the glass to judge the position the channel.
I then pushed the up button and closed the window putting pressure on the
two pieces till they dried. If thats not it then a gear may be stripped out,
and you probally have to go to ford for that.
Steve

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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 11:33:02 -0500
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Summit shipping

Summit doesn't charge a handling fee if you have the part number.

If I need an item that is not in the catalog I call and ask for the part
number and availability, then call back to order, avoiding the service fee.
;-)

Jegs always charges the service fee :-(


- -----Original Message-----
From: Ben Havens
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, December 21, 1998 5:43 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Summit shipping


>>Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 10:29:26 -0800
>>From: "Matt and Deidre"
>>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Cured: light throttle stumble
>>
>>never gets to the point of having to go to the nearest chain store and get
>
>>there wires. Summit does have free ground shipping! I hope nobody
really
>
>
>My interpretation of "free" is different from theirs I guess. Adding a $6
>handling charge makes it not free, at least in my book.
>
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 09:30:12 -0700
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: [none]

Try the Ford Diesel Website www.abol.com/users/jlester/
There is a section describing some
of the TSBs and if you don't find the ones you want answers on ask your
question on the chatboard there.

Larry









Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 11:41:04 -0800
From: Nathaniel Ingersoll
>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - TSBs for '97 PS

Hi.
From the http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.alldata.com/consumer/TSB/20/972021BZ.html
site I got the
following TSB's that I'm interested in getting more information about. Does
anyone know of a source (free hopefully) where I can get more details?
Bulletins for 1997 Ford Truck F 350 4WD Pickup V8-445 7.3L DSL Turbo
VIN F
TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title
34. 97-11-18 MAY 97 Low Performance/Lack of Power
44. 9768 MAR 97 Fuel Economy - Customer Expectations
Vs. Vehicle Usage
Thanks!
N. Ingersoll

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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 10:39:45 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Starting Problems

Casey-

Don't go buying a battery until you pull that one out of the truck and take
it somewhere to get it charged up and tested. Let it charge overnight in a
warm place, then have them test it. If it has a bad cell, it will show up
that way. THEN buy a new battery.

If it tests good, (or if you buy a new one) then bring it to your truck
inside the vehicle with you to keep it warm. Cold batteries lose power very
quickly.

If it only cranks 5 seconds with a known good battery, then it is the starter.

"Casey Vandor" wrote:

"Ok, went back to the truck yesterday. We dropped the multi-tester so it
was of no use. We tried jumping it again out of curiosity. I can only
get about 5-6 seconds worth of cranking out of that thing even while we
are jumpiing it. Shouldn't I be able to crank longer with the other
truck jumping mine? SO the battery is probably toast, will that keep
the truck from starting (at least for a few seconds)? I am going home
for christmas at the end of the week so should I even try a new battery
or just get it towed? I would hate to buy another new battery and then
have to tow it anyway (on a budget here)"

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 09:28:09 PST
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Late Mail? Re: Starting Problems

I don't know why that message took so long to get to the list. I mailed
it on the 7 of December... Oh well, can't worry about anyway....

Casey

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 10:40:09 -0800
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester

Can anyone make a recommendation on a favorite digital multitester? I've
heard real good ones are upward of $100 and the better ones have a high
impedance(I don't know what that means), but I am no electrical engineer so
if I'm going to ask for an expensive Christmas present I'd like to ask for
one that will pretty much handle everything I need. My needs include vehicle
circuit testing and around the house stuff, not much more than that. Can
folks please make suggestions, brand , model, good place to get at a
discount? You can e-mail me directly if you prefer. Thanks Walt
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 10:53:44 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester

My friends mother works for Fluke and they make a very good digital VOM. I
can also get them 40% through her. I have a couple of Fluke multimeters and
they are all very well made and accurate.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Posluszny, Walt (POSL)
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Tuesday, December 22, 1998 6:45 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester


>Can anyone make a recommendation on a favorite digital multitester? I've
>heard real good ones are upward of $100 and the better ones have a high
>impedance(I don't know what that means), but I am no electrical engineer so
>if I'm going to ask for an expensive Christmas present I'd like to ask for
>one that will pretty much handle everything I need. My needs include
vehicle
>circuit testing and around the house stuff, not much more than that. Can
>folks please make suggestions, brand , model, good place to get at a
>discount? You can e-mail me directly if you prefer. Thanks Walt
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 13:53:58 -0500
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester

High impedance means that the meter will not allow much current to flow through
it. This is critical for testing digital electronic and logic circuits, but
doesn't much matter when tracing basic vehicle wiring like you find in trucks.

I have a meter (I don't recall the brand) that has volts, ohms, 0-10 amps and a
4-6-8 cyl tach. But if the tach is not necessary for your use, almost any meter
will do the job. The more expensive ones are more sturdy, but otherwise don't
offer much additional functionality for a weekend mechanic who is trying to
trace down a short in his trailer wiring or see if a socket in the bedroom has
power. I suggest you start with a $29.95 Radio Mess special, use it for a while,
and then see if you need anything more. Look for the feature that sounds a beep
when you connect the leads - that can be very handy for chasing down shorts and
opens. Very often, when I am checking things out in my tractors, I just grab one
of several cheap analog meters I have around - they are handy because you can
watch the change in voltage or resistance while you are doing things. In fact, a
lot of mechanics do fine with just a 12 volt lamp and a couple of wire soldered
to the base. In the long run, the type and quality of the leads is more critical
than the brand of meter.

Mike

Posluszny, Walt (POSL) wrote:

> Can anyone make a recommendation on a favorite digital multitester? I've
> heard real good ones are upward of $100 and the better ones have a high
> impedance(I don't know what that means), but I am no electrical engineer so
> if I'm going to ask for an expensive Christmas present I'd like to ask for
> one that will pretty much handle everything I need. My needs include vehicle
> circuit testing and around the house stuff, not much more than that. Can
> folks please make suggestions, brand , model, good place to get at a
> discount? You can e-mail me directly if you prefer. Thanks Walt
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



- --

- ------------
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)



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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 13:31:43 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester

Radoje Spasojevic wrote:

> My friends mother works for Fluke and they make a very good digital VOM.
> I have a couple of Fluke multimeters

And you bought one even AFTER you saw the name. :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 11:31:06 -0800
From: Eric Sneed
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester

Fluke

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Posluszny, Walt (POSL) [SMTP:POSL chevron.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 1998 10:40 AM
> To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester
>
> Can anyone make a recommendation on a favorite digital multitester?
> I've
> heard real good ones are upward of $100 and the better ones have a
> high
> impedance(I don't know what that means), but I am no electrical
> engineer so
> if I'm going to ask for an expensive Christmas present I'd like to ask
> for
> one that will pretty much handle everything I need. My needs include
> vehicle
> circuit testing and around the house stuff, not much more than that.
> Can
> folks please make suggestions, brand , model, good place to get at a
> discount? You can e-mail me directly if you prefer. Thanks Walt
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 14:35:37 -0500
From: "Doug McGuinn"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester

I'm a former TV repairman, and it's been my experience that a medium priced
digital multimeter (20-40 dollars) will be adequate for about 99.9% of the
stuff you'll be doing. Make sure, though, that the meter has a setting for
checking for shorts and opens (it buzzes when there is zero resistance, and
doesn't buzz when there is an open circuit). One of the shortcomings of a
digital meter as opposed to an analog meter is that it's hard to check quick
voltage/resistance/current changes without a neddle indicator. You probably
won't need to worry about that, though.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Posluszny, Walt (POSL)
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Tuesday, December 22, 1998 1:43 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester


>Can anyone make a recommendation on a favorite digital multitester? I've
>heard real good ones are upward of $100 and the better ones have a high
>impedance(I don't know what that means), but I am no electrical engineer so
>if I'm going to ask for an expensive Christmas present I'd like to ask for
>one that will pretty much handle everything I need. My needs include
vehicle
>circuit testing and around the house stuff, not much more than that. Can
>folks please make suggestions, brand , model, good place to get at a
>discount? You can e-mail me directly if you prefer. Thanks Walt
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 15:00:14 -0500
From: Dave Slotter
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester

>Can anyone make a recommendation on a favorite digital multitester? I've
>heard real good ones are upward of $100 and the better ones have a high
>impedance(I don't know what that means), but I am no electrical engineer so
>if I'm going to ask for an expensive Christmas present I'd like to ask for
>one that will pretty much handle everything I need. My needs include vehicle
>circuit testing and around the house stuff, not much more than that. Can
>folks please make suggestions, brand , model, good place to get at a
>discount? You can e-mail me directly if you prefer. Thanks Walt

How about a generic $20 DMM (Digital Multimeter) from your local Walmart or
Kmart? Small enough to carry around and performs just about every test you
need and doesn't cost a whole bunch.

If you're not an electrical engineer, you won't need anything fancier than
that. You can save your money for buying parts for your truck!

- -Dave Slotter
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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 13:11:48 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:Digital Multitester

"Posluszny, Walt (POSL)" wrote:

> Can anyone make a recommendation on a favorite digital multitester?

Walt,

The high impedence ratings won't be much help in the automotive sensor, or
around the house type of usage. Actually, I have 2 analog meters, a nice Simpson
260 in a leather case, it stays in the house, when I know I'm going to need it I
pull it out of the closet and use it. It has an over volt, overman breaker that
is re-settable. That comes in handy doing the house/unknown stuff.

I've got a little Triplett 310, about double the thickness of a pocket
calculator in my tool box. It's perfect for the quick sensor readings on the
rig. It came with wire piercing tips so I don't have to strip anything down to
get a good reading. Only drawback to that one, odd ball batteries that have to
be ordered from Radio Shack.

I own a digital one, it's in my tool kit at work, hasn't seen the light of day
in about 8 months,(not my tools, just the VOM).
Radio Shack has some great inexpensive little units. You would have to go to an
Electronics/Repair store or round up a Graybar or Specialized Tool catalog to
purchase a Fluke, or a Simpson.

In my book, those are the top of the line (read spendy)

Bob


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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 16:58:15 -0500
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE- Exhaust Upgrade

I don't recall the original post. But I don't remember anyone posting an
exhaust upgrade that would have caused a loss of low end tourque. I have
seen this comment several times in other news groups, it just doesn't
happen. It would probably be impossible to reduce low end torque with an
aftermarket exhaust system. Even with long tube headers, they would need to
be very large in diameter to reduce exhaust velocity enough that they were
worse than the original manifolds. After the collectors, anything that
reduces backpressure helps.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Stephen W. Hansen
To: 80-96-list
Date: December 22, 1998 10:59 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE- Exhaust Upgrade


>I did the exhaust swap just as you said you are thinking of. End results:
>loss of low end and true pulling power, gain of top speed and cruising
>ability. If I had to do it again I would leave the Cat converter on, as I
>tow a little bit. The truck runs great, and it had no effect on the
>computer. Just be sure you leave the O2 sensor in, (just before the cat
>converter)
>Steve
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 98 16:12:20 PST
From: don neomagic.com (Donald Paauw)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - T5 identity

I'm currently swapping a 302 from a 1989 Mustang into
my 1988 Ranger. I chose to take a rebuilt T5 rather
than the one that came on the car. My problem is that
there is no tag on the rebuilt tranny & I want to find
out what part number it is.

I have the following numbers:

T5 on Mustang:
tag p/n 7E6ZR-7003-FB
number on main housing: 13-52-066-908
number on tail housing: 13-52-066-919
number on main housing top plate: 13-52-097-913
main housing has "Basic 1B" on it
top plate has "Basic 3" on it.

Unknown rebuilt:
no tag
number on main housing: 13-52-065-921
number on tail housing: 13-52-065-919
number on main housing top plate: 13-52-097-913
main housing has "Basic 2A" on it
top plate has "Basic 3" on it.

I'm concerned because the Advanced Adapter kit that I
have says it's for a "World Class 5 speed" and I've
just found out that T5's come on Chevys, Jeeps,various
Fords, etc. The kit instructions have many warnings
about incompatible transmissions, so if I can't
identify this one, I'm thinking that maybe I should
stick with the one on the donor car.

>From a web site:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/mustanggt/gttranny.htm
I think I would like either of two part numbers:
E9ZR-7003-A or E9ZR-7003-AA.

Any help or comments would be appreciated.

- -- Don
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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 17:34:21 -0800
From: Howard Webb
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:

Thanks, appreciate it.

"Smeins, Larry" wrote:

> Try the Ford Diesel Website www.abol.com/users/jlester/
> There is a section describing some
> of the TSBs and if you don't find the ones you want answers on ask your
> question on the chatboard there.
>
> Larry
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 11:41:04 -0800
> From: Nathaniel Ingersoll
> >
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - TSBs for '97 PS
>
> Hi.
> >From the http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.alldata.com/consumer/TSB/20/972021BZ.html
> site I got the
> following TSB's that I'm interested in getting more information about. Does
> anyone know of a source (free hopefully) where I can get more details?
> Bulletins for 1997 Ford Truck F 350 4WD Pickup V8-445 7.3L DSL Turbo
> VIN F
> TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title
> 34. 97-11-18 MAY 97 Low Performance/Lack of Power
> 44. 9768 MAR 97 Fuel Economy - Customer Expectations
> Vs. Vehicle Usage
> Thanks!
> N. Ingersoll
>
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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 18:13:01 PST
From: "Chris Mahaffey"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Aftermarket Exhaust

In response to the Flowmaster question, I just purchased a Gibson
Performance exhaust system. Someone here recommended either Flowmaster
or Gibson, so I decided to go with Gibson. What I purchased is a single
3" system. They recommended the single for towing. I guess the duals
may produce more power but the single gives more low end torque. Is
that correct? Does anyone know why? I haven't installed it yet but
I'll be doing that soon. I'll let everyone know how it works out.
Although, I won't be towing anything until boating season comes around
again, which wont be soon enough!

Chris

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 19:35:14 -0700
From: "Randy Kindler"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re: wires

>You paid $100 for spark plug wires? Spark plug >wires don't really
increase
>power that much, do they?
Actually, I think it was around $70 from Super Shops(now out of business).I
bought a Mallory Cap and rotor, too. No, they didn't increase power. They
were pretty, though. I agree with you. I was a victim of impulse buying.

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