80-96-list-digest Thursday, December 17 1998 Volume 02 : Number 418



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Converter stall speed
Re: FTE 80-96 - Like a rock (ha!)
FTE 80-96 - Plastic Adhesive
FTE 80-96 - Snowplowing (was Re: - Thank You
Re: FTE 80-96 - Converter stall speed
Re: FTE 80-96 - Like a rock (ha!)
FTE 80-96 - No More Fords
FTE 80-96 - What the heck is it??
FTE 80-96 - Heater Control Needed
Re: FTE 80-96 - Heater Control Needed
FTE 80-96 - Finding Heater Controls
FTE 80-96 - marine carb
Re: FTE 80-96 - I-6 Ignition upgrade
Re: FTE 80-96 - I-6 Ignition upgrade
FTE 80-96 - Heater Controls
FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab
Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab
RE: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab
FTE 80-96 - Aftermarket Air Cleaners
FTE 80-96 - Windshield Wiper switch removal
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Products, classifieds, chat, t-shirts and more...
RE: FTE 80-96 - What the heck is it??
Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab
Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab
Re: FTE 80-96 - What year did pass. mirror go from flat to convex?
Re: FTE 80-96 - What the heck is it??
Re: FTE 80-96 - What the heck is it??
FTE 80-96 - Re: Won't Start
FTE 80-96 - Marine starters
Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab
Re: FTE 80-96 - Windshield Wiper switch removal
Re: FTE 80-96 - I-6 Ignition upgrade
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Cured: light throttle stumble
Re: FTE 80-96 - Windshield Wiper switch removal
Re: FTE 80-96 - What the heck is it??
Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab
Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab
Re: FTE 80-96 - Stupid Question Time...
FTE 80-96 - Re: What year did pass. mirror go from flat to convex?
Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab
Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab
FTE 80-96 - Fuel Switch on '92 F 250
FTE 80-96 - gas tanks
Re: FTE 80-96 - Aftermarket Air Cleaners
FTE 80-96 - work horses
RE: FTE 80-96 - What is Tire siping ??
Re: FTE 80-96 - work horses

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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 07:09:20 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Converter stall speed

I believe that the stock stall is around 1500 if I remember correctly. I have
yet to put it on the dyno (ON SATURDAY Dave=P) so that should give me a little
more info to work with. I have been dumfounded by the way most shops are
telling me to figure out what stall I need. I have been told all the way up to
3500. I told the guy he was outta his tree and needed to go back to ASE
school. I don't have near enough ponies YET to push a 3500 stall convertor.
But in the mean time I will continue my search.
Thanks for help,
Wayne Foy
'94 F150 Flareside Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/auto/index.htm
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 07:19:46 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Like a rock (ha!)

Here's a good little story for ya
One day I was coming home from work and this little punk in a Garbage
Merchandise full size LOWRIDER decides he's gonna try to pick a race with me.
LMAO, I told him to go on the green. Well, needless to say I ripped him off
the line and he was playing catchup the whole way. A car pulled into his lane
and he had to come in behind me. Well, on the roads here in ATLANTA they put
these HUGE metal plates on the road if they have done any road work where they
need to leave a hole but have to open the road. These metal plates can stick
up off the surface anywhere for 1" to 5" depending on where they put it. Well,
to make a long story short, he was on my backside pretty close. When I jerked
the wheel to miss this plate, he didn't have enough time to see it. I'll
provide you with the mental pic, Picture the movie American Graffiti and the
cop car scene when they chained his rearend to the pole. That guy hit that
plate so hard it snatched the rear diff completely out from under his truck.
The only reason it didn't flip him is because he hit the gas when he saw me
swerve thinking he was going to be able to pass me.
Moral of the story is: You can't beat a Ford....something ALWAYS gets in your
way!

Wayne Foy
'94 F150 Flareside Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/auto/index.htm
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 08:24:54 -0500
From: Pete Serrino
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Plastic Adhesive

At 09:17 AM 12/15/98 -0500, AeroPics aol.com wrote:
>>a 2 part adhesive at
>>NAPA that will bond the plastic fitting. Prior to this I had never
>>successfully bonded these thermoplastics (Delrin??)
>Pete,
>
>Could you share the name of this adhesive with the rest of the list?
>
>Ron Slabach

The adhesive is labeled:

NAPA/VersaChem Plastic Welding System. Part # 765-2420.
No heat involved but it emits a strong odor and probably best used outdoors.

Pete Serino

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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 08:30:44 -0500
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Snowplowing (was Re: - Thank You

I have been plowing snow on parking lots, public roads and my own 2 mile private
road for the last 35 years and have never damaged the plowing vehicle. I have
used little Jeeps, 4WD trucks and farm tractors. The problem with snowplow
damage is almost never the equipment, but the operator.

Check out the Western page at
for some excellent tips. The main points I would emphasize are:

Know the area you are working in. Hitting obstructions like curbs can not only
damage equipment but injure the occupants of the vehicle. Plan your attack;
don't just go blasting away at the white stuff.

Don't go too fast. Use high range 1st or 2nd gear. "Haste makes waste" is very
true for snow removal. You may save 5 minutes of plowing by using 3rd gear, but
waste a day getting a clutch replaced or the frame welded.

Don't ride the clutch when the the vehicle starts to bog down and easy on the
gears when changing directions. If the truck starts to stall, either depress the
clutch or let it stall, back off, and start again.

Check out your rig and the plow completely BEFORE the storm to make sure
everything is in perfect condition - if anything is marginal, the stress of
plowing will finish it off at the worst possible time and in the worst place.
Place containers of hydraulic fluid and engine oil in the cab (to keep it warm)
so that you can top fluid levels off. I usually keep a couple of gallons of fuel
in the bed in case I get low, but that may be illegal in some areas. (Don't
forget to bring your wallet and gas card - refuel the vehicle before you are
done for the day/night).

Take a coffee/snack and bio break every 4 hours or so, even if it is only 15
minutes. And don't stay on the job for more than 8-10 hours; plowing requires
your constant attention and can wear you out before you know it. Even an hour's
nap can help recharge your body's batteries, especially if you are working at
night or in a storm. The hour you lose will be paid back in alertness and
efficiency.

If you are working in public areas, watch out for kids sledding and people
shoveling or digging out stuck cars.

Mike

Evan & Teresa wrote:

> IMHO putting a snow plow on an f-150 is crazy i have seen what a plow did to
> an f-superduty/f-450 and it was not a pretty site
> evan
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scottie Schmidt
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Date: Monday, December 14, 1998 1:54 PM
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Thank You
>



- ------------
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)



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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 10:16:00 -0500
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Converter stall speed

FLR150 aol.com wrote:
>
> I believe that the stock stall is around 1500 if I remember correctly. I have
> yet to put it on the dyno (ON SATURDAY Dave=P) so that should give me a little
> more info to work with. I have been dumfounded by the way most shops are
> telling me to figure out what stall I need. I have been told all the way up to
> 3500. I told the guy he was outta his tree and needed to go back to ASE
> school. I don't have near enough ponies YET to push a 3500 stall convertor.
> But in the mean time I will continue my search.
> Thanks for help,
> Wayne Foy
> '94 F150 Flareside Supercab
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/auto/index.htm
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

I think the Lightnings are 1900 or something real close to that! It
really needs to be about 2300 but I guess for the sake of around town
driving the sset it a lower speed. Thought this may give a starting
point...I would think yours would be around 1500rpms or so!
Chris
94 lightning #381
NLOC#238
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 09:13:07 -0600 (EST)
From: Robert Fox
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Like a rock (ha!)

Hahahahahahahahaha! Good one. :)

Robert Fox
fox ford ranger. com
www.ford ranger. com

On Tue, 15 Dec 1998, Andre Roy wrote:

>
> It went though the hood. It went through the carb. It went through the
> cam and finally settled in the now very bent crankshaft. The truck got
> towed back to the shop. Shop forman took one look at it. "!^&*^%#$
> chevvies, just can't take it."
> --
> Andre

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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 09:46:13 -0600
From: "Harold Day"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - No More Fords

Reading those "Like a rock" Post's reminded of a friends story about his
Ford trucks.

He lives in a high crime area and has been a Ford truck faithful for as most
of his life.

He went out one morning to find his 4x4 F150 stolen... replaced it with
another 4x4 F150, and around a year later it too was swiped. Thinking it was
the 4x4 option, the next one was a 4x2 F150. 6 months later it was gone as
well. Next he tried an Explorer, it too was stolen. During this time he had
added a home security system, motion lights, the club, an auto alarm, a
large wrought iron fence, and just about everything else he could think of.
His final solution to the truck theft problem, he replaced the Ford's with a
Dodge. He's had the current truck for over 2 years. His dad had borrowed the
truck and left it in front of the house, with the keys in it, and it didn't
get stolen. Still got it.

Moral, If he want's to keep a truck, no more Fords, or a new place to live!


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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 11:54:25 -0600
From: Joe
Subject: FTE 80-96 - What the heck is it??

I have a 95 F-150 Extra Cab Short bed, V-8 302
I noticed that in the gap between the back of the cab and the front of
the bed,, there is what appears to be a steel plate bolted to the back
of the cab ,,
It looks to be abut 5 inches tall maybe a foot wide ,, its a pretty
thick piece of whatever it is ,, Its held on with 4 bolts,
anyone know what this is or what its for ? ,,

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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 14:07:53 -0500
From: Paul Schmidt
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Heater Control Needed

I need a heater control unit for a 1980 F150 with A/C but without Aux
Fuel. I have been told that this unit
was used in 1980-1982 Trucks and Broncos. If anyone is parting out one
of these vehicles or knows where I can
get the heater control unit, please e-mail me.

Thanks,
Paul Schmidt
paul.schmidt ocas.com



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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 13:34:50 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Heater Control Needed

Paul Schmidt wrote:

> I need a heater control unit for a 1980 F150 with A/C but without Aux
> Fuel. I have been told that this unit
> was used in 1980-1982 Trucks and Broncos. If anyone is parting out one
> of these vehicles or knows where I can
> get the heater control unit, please e-mail me.

Paul,
When I was at a boneyard get a few parts off a '85 pickup
for my '83 Bronco, as I recall the units were the same. As for
the auxillary fuel, broncos don't have extra tanks, we just have to
make sure there is a gas pump within a reasonable radius. :-)
So you should be able to find one off a bronco. IMHO.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 13:54:21 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Finding Heater Controls

Also ment to add that I also got the plastic part
face off a lower 80's pickup. The part that
covers over the radio, heater controls and screws
in with a couple screws at the top and has the tabs
at the bottom that go in just above the ashtray, and
has the word " Custom " on it. That also leads me
to believe you can get the heater controls from a bronco.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 14:45:34 -0500
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - marine carb

i e-mailed the carb list number and VIN to the tech guys at Holley, and
that is what he said. marine. Ford OEM 1985 351 C-6 marine carb. and
believe me trying to find one of these is proving to be a bitch. and so
far no one can say why. my personal guess is the EPA wanted lower emissions
and Holley had a carb that would hook up to the canisters and pressurized
fuel system, EGR, etc. so far ive learned that a marine carb is supposed to
keep gas fumes from escaping into the engine compartment of boats. supposed
to cut down on blowing yourself up.
still stumped

mike p.
1985 351 F-150 Seacruiser


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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 14:45:12 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - I-6 Ignition upgrade

Rick Wojciechowski wrote:
>
> Gang,
> I was wondering from those of you that have an I-6,
> how difficult it was to update your ignition system.
> What brand did you upgrade too, what you all you
> had to swap out out and what were all the costs.
> As well, are you happy you did it.
>
So? What were the results? Since I doubt any of my ignition has been
changed in the 10+ years my FIL owned my truck before me, I suspect mine
just might be due for a change.

- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 14:22:30 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - I-6 Ignition upgrade

Andre Roy wrote:

> So? What were the results? Since I doubt any of my ignition has been
> changed in the 10+ years my FIL owned my truck before me, I suspect mine
> just might be due for a change.

No responses means I have no answers. :-(

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 15:11:50 -0500
From: Paul Schmidt
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Heater Controls

Yes, I am sure that I can use the unit from a Bronco. The salvage yard I
went to yesterday looked it
up for me.Now I just need to find a salvage yard or person who is
parting out a
1980-82 Ford Truck or Bronco.

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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 12:22:10 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab

Hi everyone, I used to belong to the old ford list but I just picked up
a '93 F350 crew cab 4x4 with 4" superlift and 37" tires and I have a
problem I need help with. From idle there is a pronounced shutter from
the rear end. I believe it to be either axle wrap or pinion angle. The
former being more likely in my mind. It only does it right at take off,
once moving, even slightly, you can hit it hard and it's nice and
smooth.

My questions are these, had anyone had experience with this, what was
the cause and what is the solution? Does anyone make a torque arm kit
for this truck?

One other thing, when sitting at a stoplight with my foot on the brake
the pedal will move toward the floor if I apply more pressure than
needed to hold the truck stationary. It will continue until it bottoms
out. The brakes do not feel mushy nor do they need to be pumped up like
there was air in the lines. I do believe it has ABS. I've only had it
an hour so I'm just getting to know it.

I'm sure I'll have more later and any info you can provide is greatly
appreciated.

Dana Bartholomew
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 14:48:10 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab

Dana Bartholomew wrote:

> Hi everyone, I used to belong to the old ford list but I just picked up
> a '93 F350 crew cab 4x4 with 4" superlift and 37" tires and I have a
> problem I need help with. From idle there is a pronounced shutter from
> the rear end. I believe it to be either axle wrap or pinion angle. The
> former being more likely in my mind. It only does it right at take off,
> once moving, even slightly, you can hit it hard and it's nice and
> smooth.

One other thing that can cause the shutter or the slight churpybounce effect
is a bad clutch. But seeing is you have a lift
I would go with th axle wrap.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 14:43:18 -0600
From: "Baldwin, Dave"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab

Dana,

I had a Ranger 4X4 that did this and more and it was the U-joints. The 4X4
sits higher and the prop-shaft angles are more severe. Mine felt like
someone was bouncing the back of the truck on acceleration. Like you say,
it was smoother when moving, but mine were really stiff, and I could feel it
even when accelerating hard at low speed.

Pinion angle could be wrong, too. The brake thing, I can't help on.

Regards,
Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX


- -----Original Message-----
From: Dana Bartholomew [mailto:danabart wizard.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 1998 2:22 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab

...From idle there is a pronounced shutter from
the rear end. I believe it to be either axle wrap or pinion angle. The
former being more likely in my mind. It only does it right at take off,
once moving, even slightly, you can hit it hard and it's nice and
smooth.

My questions are these, had anyone had experience with this, what was
the cause and what is the solution? Does anyone make a torque arm kit
for this truck?
...
Dana Bartholomew
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 13:44:49 -0700
From: Fred Moreno
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Aftermarket Air Cleaners

Hey Doug,

In regards to aftermarket aircleaners I noticed that a majority of the
people believe that K&N is the way to go. Well you know the saying
"...everybody has one..." and here is mine;
Being in the Alternative Fuels business, I travel a lot to various fleets
for training purposes, and I taking lots of tech calls involving LP and CNG
conversions. I can honestly tell you that in this field no one hardly uses
the K&N brand.
The filter of choice by far is Vortox. I believe that Vortox manufactures
the filter assemblies for the big rigs and locomotives. Do you need anything
thougher?
The Vortox air filter cannister assembly is a masterpiece because;
1 - it has more than twice the surface area of the OEM filter,
2 - it is a fully enclosed filter and takes in fresh air from outside the
engine compartment and,
3 - it is designed to replace the factory air box, so it use the same
hold-down bolts and uses the factory snorkel,
4 - the housing is made of aluminum (made in USA).
And yes I do have one installed and yes my 302 breaths MUCH better. No I do
not profit from Vortox sales, I just believe in their product.

If you are interested, email the group or me directly and I will look into
where these can be had. I guess one could do a search but who knows what
they might charge you. There are plenty of sources I know of but I will see
which one is the best and most reliable if you or anyone is interested. The
cost (at least in this business) is less than the cost of the replacement
OEM assembly.

Tata-for now, I'll try and participate more in the future,

Fred Moreno
Autotronic Controls Corp - Alternate Fuels div.

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 11:36:30 -0500
From: Doug Tinsman
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F350 gas...aftermarket options?

Hi All,
I have a stock 97 F350 Lariat, 4x4, 460, auto.

I am considering adding a K&N air filter, the type that replaces the
factory box. They are fairly expensive. Has anybody had any experience
with these? I seem to remember someone cutting the factory air filter
box to achieve the same results without spending the big bucks for the
K&N filter.


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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 16:44:22 -0500
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Windshield Wiper switch removal

It might be obvious to most of you, but it looks like I have to remove the
wiper switch from under the dash of my '87 F-350, and I cannot figure out
how to remove the knob so I can get the plastic cover off. Is there
something in the back of the switch that I have to push/pull/smack? (I guess
I have to remove the light switch knob also.)

Mike

- --

- ------------
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)



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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 17:14:26 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Products, classifieds, chat, t-shirts and more...

Hello fellow FTEs...

I'm pleased to make a few announcements. Our products center
on the web site now accepts Visa and Mastercard with secure
and encrypted ordering. Amex will be accepted within a week.

Due to this and the fact that we've recently taken on more
web advertisers, we're increasing the scope of our free
services to the list members and web site visitors.

Classifieds
- -----------
One of the items that list members have consistantly asked for
is a new classifieds section. Yesterday we purchased a top of
the line classifieds manager. This product has tons of
features, including:
1. Auto ad expiration after 30, 45 or 60 days
2. Email notification that your ad is due to expire 7
days before it expires
3. Easy ad renewal
4. Advanced searching
5. Hide your email address! Ads have a reply feature
which hides your address yet still lets people
respond. (Goodbye spammers!)
6. Multiple ad sections.
7. Edit or delete your ad at a later date
8. Anti-ad spammer feature. Will **not** accept duplicate
submission.
9. Taboo word filtering.
10. Auto limit on number of words entered for ad
11. Auto rejection from known abusers

I have a huge list of featues, but this gives you an idea of
its features. This new classifieds script should come on-line
within a week. The old system will be maintained for 30 days
after the launch of the new system.

Chat
- ----
As soon as sales picks up on the web site, we're purchasing
a new chat engine. We're evaluating two packages right now.

T-shirts
- --------
Some of you may remember the t-shirt contest we had 3 months
ago. Since the vote had some cheating I discontinued it.
4 weeks ago I gave an outline to my brother-in-law who is
an artist and he was supposed to give me t-shirt artwork
within 2 weeks. Well, I once again learned that you shouldn't
do business with family. I'm taking the artwork to an artist
next week who will have it back in 1-2 days. If you entered
a design in our contest, we really appreciate it and we are
going to prove it by giving a prize pack to ***all*** the
people who entered a design. Full details on this when the
t-shirts are ready.

Club
- ----
FTE is going to start a Ford truck club. After the first of
the year I'm presenting a plan to our core group and we
should be able to hammer out the details and hopefully have a
club by mid-January. If you've been looking for a way to have
some "hands on" involvement, a club will be just the ticket.

Adm

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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 15:21:42 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - What the heck is it??

Joe,

I have the same style and year but don't see anything like that. My advice
is to look behind the seat and see what it is attached to on the inside if
anything. It may be a doubler plate to attach something on the inside or to
patch up a hole someone put in it to run something through the cab wall. I
am curious what you see on the inside.

Scott

> I have a 95 F-150 Extra Cab Short bed, V-8 302
> I noticed that in the gap between the back of the cab and the front of
> the bed,, there is what appears to be a steel plate bolted to the back
> of the cab ,,
> It looks to be abut 5 inches tall maybe a foot wide ,, its a pretty
> thick piece of whatever it is ,, Its held on with 4 bolts,
> anyone know what this is or what its for ? ,,
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 17:25:56 EST
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab

In a message dated 12/16/98 4:58:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
danabart wizard.com writes:


My questions are these, had anyone had experience with this, what was
the cause and what is the solution? Does anyone make a torque arm kit
for this truck?
>>
Check out the leaf spring bushings. if they were severly worn you could
produce the axle movement you are speaking of.

Joe
Lost in Jersey
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 17:22:03 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab

Dana,
Yes they do make a torque arm kit for us Ford people. I have to find the ad
where I saw it advertised. Or maybe Chris with the Lightning would know. A
major Lightning drag racer invented them to keep the wheel hop down on
launches at the drags. Basically contains mounting brackets and 2 small
shocks.
I'll try to find that for ya!
Later,
Wayne Foy
'94 F 150 Flareside Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/auto/index.htm
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 17:23:12 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What year did pass. mirror go from flat to convex?

tell you what just go to WalMart they got replacement mirrors just like the
ones Ford Makes and theyre like $20 So save yourself the trouble and get a new
one
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 17:25:56 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What the heck is it??

thats to get the attention of someone and start their curiosity running
rampant
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 17:15:31 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What the heck is it??

Did you buy the truck used? It sounds like to me that some kid had it
previously and had a cut out in the truck for a stereo speaker box. Then they
had to replace the bed. Let me know!
Later,
Wayne Foy
'94 F150 Flareside Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/auto/index.htm
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 16:45:45 -0600
From: "Stephen W. Hansen"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Won't Start

missed your original post If you repost your problems i'll give it a good
thinking over.. Just replaced a started on a friend's car, I'm getting used
to them
... A Napa starter for a 90 Ford 351 was 125.00 for a one year, 195.00 for a
three year. caught me off guard too. I wasn't sure that the starter was the
problem so I took it to a local place that rebuilds starters and electric
motors. He checked it out, no problems found, he reshimmed the bushings,
stopped it from rattling... 10.00 cost. I cleaned up all contacts, found one
bad one on the solenoid, even cleaned the places where the starter mates up
with the block/trans to ensure a good ground. been great now. Remove the
starter and take it to a reputable place and have them do a check on it,
usually no fee.

RE:From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Won't Start

Well when I get back up there, I will look into getting a new starter.
Will a NAPA starter be ok or do I need a Ford starter? Haven't priced a
Ford starter, not sure if I want to.


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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 16:50:00 -0600
From: "Stephen W. Hansen"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Marine starters

The primary difference between a marine Carb and the rest is that a marine
starter floods itself down into the carb itself, not onto the manifold to
Reduce the risk of explosions. the other difference is that the marine
starter costs twice as much, and is why my boat doesn't have one on at this
time

> I've got a 1985 (built in 84) F-150, 4x4 with 351W, 2V carb, 4 sp. Manual.
> I've never seen , nor heard of a marine carb on a land engine before.
What
> leads you to think it is a marine carb, I've seen many on boats before
> (Holley and such) and couldn't see any obvious differences. If is a boat
> carb, it wasn't installed by Ford as O.E. Walt

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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 19:16:23 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab

Dana Bartholomew wrote:
>
[shudder--but I don't know]

>
> One other thing, when sitting at a stoplight with my foot on the brake
> the pedal will move toward the floor if I apply more pressure than
> needed to hold the truck stationary. It will continue until it bottoms
> out. The brakes do not feel mushy nor do they need to be pumped up like
> there was air in the lines. I do believe it has ABS. I've only had it
> an hour so I'm just getting to know it.
>
That's usually a sign of the master cylinder going out. Hit the pedal
hard, it may firm up. Had the truck been parked for an extended period
before you bought it? Somtimes sitting around is the worst thing for a
vehicle. As for the ABS, I don't know if that would make a difference.

- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 19:26:19 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Windshield Wiper switch removal

Mike Sloane wrote:
>
> It might be obvious to most of you, but it looks like I have to remove the
> wiper switch from under the dash of my '87 F-350, and I cannot figure out
> how to remove the knob so I can get the plastic cover off. Is there
> something in the back of the switch that I have to push/pull/smack? (I guess
> I have to remove the light switch knob also.)
>
Oh, it's really obvious once you get it off. So just remove it and
you'll see ;-)

Get a knitting needle or something of about that size and strength, like
a small screwdrive. At the bottom of the knob nearest the dash face
(farthest away from the part you see) there is a little hole, maybe 1/8
" square or so, maybe bigger.


-----
shaft | |
| ------- |
V ------- |
-----------/-- | |
----------/--- | |
------- |
------- |
| |
-----

See that little thing at an agle where the knob and the shaft joins?
It's just a small piece of steel that goes around the shaft. At the top
it's joined to the knob, at the bottom it jams against the shaft. It's a
spring in of itself and the spring force mashes it into the shaft. With
your knitting needle (or whatever) just pull back on the steel through
the little hole in the bottom of the knob, and pull the knob off. That
spring may actually go the other way, I can't quite remember. Just poke
around till the knob comes off.


- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 19:40:54 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - I-6 Ignition upgrade

Rick Wojciechowski wrote:
>
> Andre Roy wrote:
>
> > So? What were the results? Since I doubt any of my ignition has been
> > changed in the 10+ years my FIL owned my truck before me, I suspect mine
> > just might be due for a change.
>
> No responses means I have no answers. :-(
>
Well, I guess it's time to rattle some cages then!

Maybe I'll find me a tin cup to bang against
the bars.

Anyway. I'm strictly using my truck as a daily driver, so performance
isn't an issue. On my car I've been using Motomaster (Canadian Tire
store brand) wires. These are rebadged Niehoff wires. I've never heard
of that brand, but they do seem to be allright. They're actually a
couple of dollard more expensive than Accell wires, go figure. They're
spiral wound and the plug boots hold nicely. THe rotor and cap I used on
my car are also Motomasters, but I think they're rebadged Wells. They
don't seem any better or worse than the OEM stuff on that car. I'll
probably go the same route for the truck, at least for the wires. I may
get something else for the cap and rotor. Any opinions out there? We're
not talking mountain motor or dragstrip warrior here, just a
get-me-to-the-university-in-the-morning type of big six pickup.

- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 19:28:21 -0600
From: David Cole
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Cured: light throttle stumble

Hello all,

I couple of weeks ago I posted a rather long post about a light throttle
stumble on my 92 F-150 w 5.0/AOD. It had a stumble when under light
throttle/increasing load conditions, such as giving just enough gas to
maintain cruising speed while going up hill. If I gave it more throttle,
enough to make it downshift, the problem instantly went away.

It didn't set any computer codes, and all the sensors, including the tps
checked out ok. It had a complete tune up with plugs/wires, etc a few k
miles ago.

I was thinking it was the fuel pressure regulator. It seemed that it was
creating a lean condition under high vacum. I replaced the regulator.
Problem was still there. Replaced the coil, no change, starting to get
pissed.

Finally took it to a local shop that specializes in efi troublshooting.
They checked the computer, still no codes. The put another scanner on it a
drove it around to reproduce the problem while the scanner was hooked up.
The scanner said that at a certain throttle angle there was a glitch in the
voltage. Even though the tps checked ok for volts and ohms when checked.
So I replaced the tps. Got a Wells brand from Auto Zone for $28. Problem
still there. Really pissed now. Took the truck back to the shop. He
asked me where I got the tps. When I said Auto Zone he told me that the
Auto Zone tps sensoprs were a one or two sizes fits all part. Ford dealers
carry a specific calibration for each model and year vehicle. The same
tps for a 92-F150 is not calibrated the same as for a 92 Mustang, Crown Vic
etc. Auto Zone sells the same part # for all models for that year.

Went to Ford dealer and bought a new tps ($62). They showed me how to read
the calibration codes within the part # . The part # was something like
E7T1989891CA12345. (example) The CA is the code calibration. The Auto
Zone part had a E7T198989BB12345. It was expalined to me that for example
a 35 deg throttle angle on an F-150 at crusing speed might equal 2.8 volts,
it might be 3.0 or 2.5 on another model at the same angle. Put the
Motorcraft tps on, returned the old one to Auto Zone. Problem still there.
Boiling mad now. Returned to the shop. No charge from the shop this time.

The shop operator was able to find an obscure record of a similar problem
in his diagnostic computer system (Mitchell?). It said that bad plug wires
that are crossed close to the tps (within 3" on my truck) were creating
enough interference that it was confusing the tps at a certain angle. When
the tps got confused, the computer switched to closed loop operation and
ran a pre-set fuel/spark setting just like when the truck was operated
cold. (Problem was not present until truck was warmed up). The stumble was
caused by the rapid switching back and forth from open to closed loop
operation.

I switched the plug wires, making sure to keep them as far as possible from
the tps. The problem was instantly cured! It had never occured to me that
the plug wires might be bad. They only had about 4-5K miles on them and
had a lifetime warranty.

The moral: STAY AWAY from cheap chain store (Auto Zone ) plug wires. I
ended up spending over $250 tracking down a problem caused by their $30
plug wires! When I checked them with an ohm meter, prior to returning
them, they checked at over 10K ohms cold. No telling what the resistance
went to when they got hot. The new wires (Belden, from NAPA, $50) checked
at
when hot are trash. They might run ok on points/carb applications, but on
efi they cause problems.

Anyway, several people on the list had this problem, so maybe this might be
a solution to yours.

Any comments are welcome.

Later,

David Cole

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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 20:54:09 -0600
From: GTH
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Windshield Wiper switch removal

Mike:
knob should have a set screw (88 and 89 do)...been there.
G Hester

Mike Sloane wrote:
>
> It might be obvious to most of you, but it looks like I have to remove the
> wiper switch from under the dash of my '87 F-350, and I cannot figure out
> how to remove the knob so I can get the plastic cover off. Is there
> something in the back of the switch that I have to push/pull/smack? (I guess
> I have to remove the light switch knob also.)
>
> Mike
>
> --
>
> ------------
> Mike Sloane
> Allamuchy NJ
> (msloane att.net)
>
>
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 21:57:09 -0500
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What the heck is it??

What you have there is a lump of steel attached to the back wall of the cab.
While I was working at the truck plant in Ontario I used to see these coming
down the line. They are on some trucks but not others. I asked around what
they were for. The guy installing them had no idea, that was just his job.
Anyhow .... it's a weight. It helps reduce vibrations in that relatively
large flat panel. Hope that helps.

Matt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Joe
To: Ford-Trucks
Date: Wednesday, December 16, 1998 12:47 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - What the heck is it??


>I have a 95 F-150 Extra Cab Short bed, V-8 302
>I noticed that in the gap between the back of the cab and the front of
>the bed,, there is what appears to be a steel plate bolted to the back
>of the cab ,,
>It looks to be abut 5 inches tall maybe a foot wide ,, its a pretty
>thick piece of whatever it is ,, Its held on with 4 bolts,
>anyone know what this is or what its for ? ,,
>
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 22:04:47 -0500
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab

My '95 F150 has the same shudder problem when pulling away from a stop with
a heavy load (house trailer etc). I also concluded that it's axle wind up.
I had been looking into a set of radius rods, but hadn't got any where, and
now that the camping season is over (for me anyway) the pressure is off.
The problem with the brakes sounds like a leaking master cylinder.

Matt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dana Bartholomew
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, December 16, 1998 3:24 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab


>Hi everyone, I used to belong to the old ford list but I just picked up
>a '93 F350 crew cab 4x4 with 4" superlift and 37" tires and I have a
>problem I need help with. From idle there is a pronounced shutter from
>the rear end. I believe it to be either axle wrap or pinion angle. The
>former being more likely in my mind. It only does it right at take off,
>once moving, even slightly, you can hit it hard and it's nice and
>smooth.
>
>My questions are these, had anyone had experience with this, what was
>the cause and what is the solution? Does anyone make a torque arm kit
>for this truck?
>
>One other thing, when sitting at a stoplight with my foot on the brake
>the pedal will move toward the floor if I apply more pressure than
>needed to hold the truck stationary. It will continue until it bottoms
>out. The brakes do not feel mushy nor do they need to be pumped up like
>there was air in the lines. I do believe it has ABS. I've only had it
>an hour so I'm just getting to know it.
>
>I'm sure I'll have more later and any info you can provide is greatly
>appreciated.
>
>Dana Bartholomew
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 23:49:44 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab

Dana,
Axle wrap usually causes a 'hopping' effect in the rear end, the
spring and axle torque fighting it out. If you have blocks in the
rear which is a typical thing for most lifts, I'd go w/that. A 4"
lift doesn't mean you have 4" blocks either. Some companies only use
2.5 or 3" blocks since the rear sits higher from the factory.
U-joints could be another problem especially w/the steeper yoke
angles. Those are cheap and easy to fix, so even if it's not the
problem, it won't be the next time if you fix it now...
I had a Camaro I built and man that thing would act like hop-along
cassidy at a good launch. A set of traction bars cured that, but
that's not what you'd use for a truck as you already know, just giving
an example. If you suspect a steep pinion angle you could use shims
to rotate the front of the axle up _slightly_.

Later,
Brew

Dana Bartholomew wrote:
>
> Hi everyone, I used to belong to the old ford list but I just picked up
> a '93 F350 crew cab 4x4 with 4" superlift and 37" tires and I have a
> problem I need help with. From idle there is a pronounced shutter from
> the rear end. I believe it to be either axle wrap or pinion angle. The
> former being more likely in my mind. It only does it right at take off,
> once moving, even slightly, you can hit it hard and it's nice and
> smooth.
>
> My questions are these, had anyone had experience with this, what was
> the cause and what is the solution? Does anyone make a torque arm kit
> for this truck?
>
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 23:59:01 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Stupid Question Time...

Fred!! See below

Fred Moreno wrote:
>
- ---snip---

> Stupid Question: the diaphragm puzzles me because if one tops off the fluid
> "to the fill line", and then you place the diaphragm, put the cap on, you
> get a mess due to the brake fluid overflowing. Is this correct or am I
> missing the boat here? Are you suppose to fold the diaphram or something (
> Origami anyone? )? Service manual mentions nothing of the overflow situation
> and origami possibility.
> Feel free to comment, suggest, but be gentle, I just finished a Bunch of
> finals, not much left of my brain.
>

Ok, is the resevoir diaphram rather flat with 1 or 2 small circular
walls standing up _slightly_? Meaning an 1/8" or so? Or does it
stand tall? If it does, that's caused by the resevoir getting low.
The vacuum from the fluid being drawn down pulls the resevoir diaphram
out. You must depress (fold) the diaphram back in. Since you are
getting an overflow when only filling the resevoir to the full line,
I'm betting this is the problem. The diaphram will sort of 'pop' back
into shape.

Later,
Brew
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Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 00:16:13 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: What year did pass. mirror go from flat to convex?

Jim,
I DON'T recommend the ones from Wal-Mart! I too busted my passenger
side mirror and thought I'd save a few bucks, not to mention time, by
getting the $20 Wal-Mart one. It is flat (they have one mirror that
fits both sides) and I hate it being flat on the passenger side (my
'87 has the slight convex you're talking about). Not to mention that
it vibrates really bad on the highway. I can't even tell the model of
car next to me (if it's a truck it must be a Ch*vy since it's behind
me..hehe). Last spring on the day I was gonna leave for a camping
trip my drivers' side mirror (glass) fell off and broke. Having
limited time and not wanting to pull my camper w/out both mirrors I
ran to Wal-Mart, and regretted it...again. I mean it was nice to have
any kind of a mirror since I was towing, and they work great...as long
as you're sitting at a stop light or in the driveway. Just my
experience.

Later,
Brew

Jim Cannon wrote:
>
> Maybe someone can save me some time hunting in the junkyard this weekend. I
> cracked my outside mirror on the passenger side of my 1980 F-150. I have
> been wanting to replace this original flat mirror with a curved one like
> they put on later models. I plan to just replace the entire mirror unit
> (bracket, mirror head, etc.) What year did this convex mirror first come
> out? '84? '85?
> Thanks!
> Jim Cannon
> Houston, TX
> '29 Ford Model A Phaeton
> '63 Buick Riviera
> '80 Ford F-150
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 20:35:13 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab

Randy wrote:
>
> Dana,
> Axle wrap usually causes a 'hopping' effect in the rear end, the
> spring and axle torque fighting it out. If you have blocks in the
> rear which is a typical thing for most lifts, I'd go w/that. A 4"
> lift doesn't mean you have 4" blocks either. Some companies only use
> 2.5 or 3" blocks since the rear sits higher from the factory.
> U-joints could be another problem especially w/the steeper yoke
> angles. Those are cheap and easy to fix, so even if it's not the
> problem, it won't be the next time if you fix it now...
> I had a Camaro I built and man that thing would act like hop-along
> cassidy at a good launch. A set of traction bars cured that, but
> that's not what you'd use for a truck as you already know, just giving
> an example. If you suspect a steep pinion angle you could use shims
> to rotate the front of the axle up _slightly_.
>
> Later,
> Brew
>

Thanks Brew and everyone else that has given me input on my "shudder",
thanks Andre for the spell check, I didn't even think about it when I
spelled it "shutter".

I've talked to some local suspension and driveline shops here in town
today and have got differing opinions on the cause of the problem. I'm
bringing it in to a driveline shop that comes highly recommended by a
few of the suspension and performance shops. He feels that he will be
able to determine if it's pinion angle or axle wrap. He said that on
lifted or lowered vehicles that shudder upon take-off 9 out of ten times
it is pinion angle. He also mentioned that the carrier bearing could be
worn and allowing the shaft to wobble. The truck does have 92k on it
and I don't know of it's service record so it may well be a combination
of things. I will let you know what the final outcome is and if anyone
has more to add please keep it coming.

As for the fading brake pedal I do suspect the master cylinder, is there
any definitive way to check the master cylinder?

I would like to say that I've been a member of a few different mailing
lists and this is the first time that I've really needed help on
something and I appreciate the quick and helpful advice.

Thanks again for the help,

Dana B
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 21:19:24 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Crew Cab

> Air in the line could cause the fading. A bad MC wouildn't give you a
> regualr good performance. A bad MC will usually leak, either down the
> firewall or into the booster. Sometimes the diaphram in the lid will dry
> rot (not likely) or leak. If this is happening, it will induce air into
> the system and cause the pedal to give out. Does the fluid level stay
> pretty constant?

Hope any of this helps.

Bob


>

>
>
> As for the fading brake pedal I do suspect the master cylinder, is there
> any definitive way to check the master cylinder?
>
> I would like to say that I've been a member of a few different mailing
> lists and this is the first time that I've really needed help on
> something and I appreciate the quick and helpful advice.
>
> Thanks again for the help,
>
> Dana B
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Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 01:11:33 EST
From: CRGREENE1 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Switch on '92 F 250

Hey guys, I've got a problem..I have a '92 F 250 and it has dual tanks..my
switch that you use to switch from front tank to rear tank (or vice versa) is
coming loose and is starting to fall behind the dash...its getting to be a
real pain in the butt to switch tanks now...have y'all had any problems with
this? What is the easiest way to get the dash panel off? It seems like no
biggie except for the head light switch is restricting it from coming
off...how do you take off the headlight switch? Do you need a special tool?

Thanks in advance guys!
C. Greene
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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 23:01:23 -0800
From: mccall
Subject: FTE 80-96 - gas tanks

There seems to be a problem filling the rear gas tank in my 1981 F150
2wheel drive truck.You have to squeeze the gas nozzle gently or you get
the gas coming back at you.
Any solution would be appreciated, someone mentioned
venting, if that is the case. How do you vent?

Thanks in advance
Davie

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Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 02:32:25 -0500
From: Doug Tinsman
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Aftermarket Air Cleaners

Thanks much..... Yes , if you can put me on to these filters, I will
check them out.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 20:28:21 -0800 (PST)
From: shy anne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - work horses

this is in response to the posts about ford trucks being used for
work. i go to rodeos and horse shows a lot. while standing at the
top of the bleachers and looking out into the parking lot i noticed
something.
while there were a few non-Fords hitched to the smaller trailers,
nearly all of the larger had a Ford attatched to it. I thought, "well
maybe it's just a coincidence." So, at the next show, in a different
town, I looked out on the parking lot again. Same thing. Now, every
show or rodeo I go to, I check out the parking lot. So far, the
results have all been the same...




==
- -"God forbid I shall go to any heaven where there are no horses."



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 20:17:11 -0800 (PST)
From: shy anne
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - What is Tire siping ??

i have no idea..




- ---"Giddens, Scott" wrote:
>
> Shy,
>
> Can you sipe tires after they have been on your truck for a year?
>
> Scott
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: shy anne [SMTP:jme_shy yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, December 10, 1998 6:59 PM
> > To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What is Tire siping ??
> >
> > they cut thin slices in your tires for better traction on wet
roads.
> > there are more channels for the water to go through..instead of
> > getting between the tire and the road. You can't tell that your
tires
> > have been siped by looking unless you look really close. Discount
> > Tire siped my tires and I've noticed that I seem to have better
> > traction on wet roads. This is how I understand siping anyway.
> > Shy
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---Lamar Zabielski wrote:
> > >
> > > What is siping? It sounds like making grooves for tire chains to
fit
> > in. How
> > > old can a tire be? Does it work for cable?
> > >
> > > PS No way am I gonna change wheels to get my chains on.
> > >
> > > thanks,
> > >
> > > At 04:31 PM 12/9/98 -0700, 80-96-list ford-trucks.com wrote:
> > > >Discount tire here in Colorado wanted to sipe my tires last July.....


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