80-96-list-digest Tuesday, December 15 1998 Volume 02 : Number 416



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Looking for fasteners
Re: FTE 80-96 - Blower Motor Problems
FTE 80-96 - RE: Heater Control Problems
FTE 80-96 - Front-End DONE !!!
FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 head gasket ?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Looking for fasteners
Re: FTE 80-96 - Front End Completion
FTE 80-96 - Cavitation.
Re: FTE 80-96 - grade 5 verses grade 8 bolts
FTE 80-96 - Won't start
RE: FTE 80-96 - What is Tire siping ??
Re: FTE 80-96 - Front-End DONE !!!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Looking for fasteners
Re: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 head gasket ?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Won't start
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bracket
RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 head gasket ?
FTE 80-96 - Radius arm bush
FTE 80-96 - Cam and other stuff
Re: FTE 80-96 - Looking for fasteners
FTE 80-96 - 302 Pinging/ Results (long)
FTE 80-96 - Whats wrong ?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Front-End DONE !!!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Whats wrong ?
FTE 80-96 - Thank You
Re: FTE 80-96 - Front-End DONE !!!
FTE 80-96 - 1985 351 owners
Re: FTE 80-96 - Won't start
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1985 351 owners
FTE 80-96 - grade 5 verses grade 8 bolts
Re: FTE 80-96 - Cam and other stuff
Re: FTE 80-96 - Looking for fasteners
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Heater Control Problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Lift Kits ('80-'86 F-150)

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Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 06:09:05 -0600
From: "Ferino, Chris"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Looking for fasteners

Someone recently mentioned those trim fasteners (the plastic
"christmas-tree" type) that hold the inside body moldings in place - does
anyone know where I can get a supply of these, light grey in color?
Recently, while installing upgraded speakers in the back of my '93 Bronco, I
managed (even WITH the special tool) to beat up most all of the ones I
needed to remove.

I'm sure Ford sells 'em, in packs of 20 or so for some outrageous price - so
I'm looking for alternatives.

Thanks!

(Note to Rade - I've got a Haynes book on the rebuilding of the AOD, and
I've seen some places advertised in some of the truck mags like 4WOR and
Four Wheeler selling instructional videotapes. I think I saved the ads
somewhere - if I locate them, I'll email the information on 'em to you.)

- --Chris
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 11:02:50 -0500
From: Mark Heidotting
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Blower Motor Problems

Bowman, John A wrote:
>
> I have a 1983 F100 with no a/c. I am having an intermitenetd problem
> with the 3 spd blower motor. Some mornings the motor will not work on
> any speed immediately after starting the vehicle. Some time after...
> maybe 30 sec to 5 minutes it will just start by its self (if the blower
> switch is on ). Any idea's?

You didn't mention if the motor had been replaced or not, so I'll go
on the assumption that it's the original (or at least a few years old).

My guess would be that the motor is toast. I had a similar problem in
an old Mercury, and right about this time of year, too. It seems that
water (condensation) was getting into the motor and literally freezing
the motor up. The motor would draw current and heat up slightly until
the ice inside melted, and once that happened, it'd start running.

It could also be that the brushes are badly worn and are not making
proper
contact with the armature.

The next time it refuses to run, get out a voltmeter or test light and
make sure it's getting current. If it is, it's time to replace the
motor. If it isn't, start looking through the wiring.

By the way, if the motor HAS been recently replaced, it's still possible
to have problems of this nature, particularly with the lower-quality
"rebuilds." I used to work at parts stores and some of the parts we
had were little more that parts pulled from a wrecked car, tested to
see if they worked, steam-cleaned and painted. Look for a part made
by a reputable rebuilder, like A-1 Cardone, or go with a shiny new
part. Can't go wrong at the Ford dealer, though your wallet might
disagree.

Mark.

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Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 08:38:41 -0600
From: Roger Lane
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Heater Control Problems

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 23:53:45 -0600
From: "BigRed"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Problems with heater control

>I have a 84 F150 with a slight problem.
>No matter where the heater control is set (Defrost, Heat, Vent), it
blowsall the air out of the AC vents.I know there are some vacuum motors
that control where the air is sent, but I don't know which one('s) to look
at.
I have this same problem with my 87 right now. I did find my problem, but
have not seen what I have to do to fix it yet. I followed the cable down to
a thing under the dash. I can see the cable move when I move the lever, but
the knob thingy doesn't move. I can move it by hand though. I also noticed
that I have all of the options except the mix, for some reason that one
doesn't click into place. I don't know if yours is in the same place as
mine, but it is just to the right of the ash tray under the dash. Anyone got
any ideas for us?

I found the problem. There is a flapper in the airbox under the dash that
diverts the air to the AC ducts. What it felt like (I could not see it) was
that it was supposed to be on a hinge, but the hinge was broke. So what I
did was force it closed, so now it diverts the air to another valve that
sends it to the def/floor or mix. After I closed the valve I disconnected
the vacuum control (the one under the dash next to the ashtray). So now the
heat comes out the defrosters, the floor, or I can mix it. I'm not to
worried about not getting air out of the AC ducts because the AC doesn't
work anyway (someone even removed the compressor 8^).
Hope this helps.

Roger Lane
Test/Support Analyst
(402)241-3570
Roger.Lane IBPINC.COM

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Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 08:54:51 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Front-End DONE !!!

Gang,
Just thought I would tell ya that I got the front-end finished
this weekend and went and got my alignment this morning.
I got the radius arm brackets and bushings on Friday night.
Now as to the tales of the problems encountered. When I changed
out the pivot bushings I encountered problems for both of them.
First of all, the metal sleeves the bushings were in had tabs on both
sides. So I had to chisel those damn things out. Second problem
was the drivers side pivot bushing. I couldn't get the crossmember
down far enough to work on it because it was binding on the passenger
side axle. So I had to take apart the passenger side hubs, spindle,
ect,.... and pull the axle out of the slipjoint. That then aloud the
crossmember to drop enough to get the pivot bushing out. Then
chiseled out the sleeve and installed the new one. I then put the
passenger side axle and hub together. Guess what I forgot to out
back on ? The darn mud/rain shield that goes on between the spindle
and the knuckle. Well I decided to move on and get the two tie-rods
on. That was straight forward. Just make sure you use calipers to get
the same distance the threads go in so they will be the same. Anyways,
Sunday I took back apart the passsenger hub side to get the shield back
on. And ofcourse I broke one of the 6 manual hub cover screws on the
cover. Luckily I have extras. Well, I am now glad I have a new front-end

and everything is done. By the way, total cost for parts that were the
MOOG brand was $110.00. That included (both radius arm bushings,
both pivot bushings and both tie-rod ends). The cost for the bolts that
I put the radius arm brackets back on with was $1.50(6-grade 5 screws,
12 washers, 6-lockwashers, and 6 nuts). The alignment was $29.95. It
was a tough two week nights, and most of the weekend to do the job but
its done. :-) Should be good now for a few years and I saved about
$400.00 of labor the alignment shop wanted. :-) Ofcourse my Dad did
come over and help some, but he just charged me a few beers. Any
questions or comments please fire away.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:01:03 -0600
From: m-sands juno.com (Robert M Sands)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 head gasket ?

I have a 92 F150, purchased new. In 1994 the engine was replaced under
warranty. Current engine has right at 36K on it, 69K on the rest. Noticed
this past weekend antifreeze blown back on tranny (E4OD) and
differential. Antifreeze seems to be leaking from head gasket, only under
cold startup and then immediately hitting the road. If I let it warm up
it doesn't seem to do it. Also no evidence of leaking after being driven
for a distance. I probably would not have found it had it not been for me
taking it for a short warm-up before dropping the oil out of it, and then
while crawling underneath saw evidence of blown back antifreeze. At this
point there is no evidence of anti-freeze in oil.I'm fairly mechanically
inclined , but it looks as if it may be money well spent to have the
dealer do the fix, and I guess the possibility of a warped head could
exist also. I'm been in the background for quite a while and have come
to respect the opinions / advice the group on this list has offered up.
So having said that , I'll be anxiously awaiting any comments / advice.
Thanks in advance.... Mike Sands

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Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:24:14 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Looking for fasteners

"Ferino, Chris" wrote:
>
> Someone recently mentioned those trim fasteners (the plastic
> "christmas-tree" type) that hold the inside body moldings in place - does
> anyone know where I can get a supply of these, light grey in color?
> Recently, while installing upgraded speakers in the back of my '93 Bronco, I
> managed (even WITH the special tool) to beat up most all of the ones I
> needed to remove.
>
> I'm sure Ford sells 'em, in packs of 20 or so for some outrageous price - so
> I'm looking for alternatives.
>
Chrysler dealers will sell them individually, but they're black and I
forget the price (but you can get them cheaper elsewhere) Just ask for
the "Little plastic mushrooms that hold the car together" ;-) When I did
that, the parts-droidess knew exactly what I was talking about.

Up here, Canadian Tire sells them in little bibble packs in the "Help!"
section. They're usually black, too. Now, if I go over to the baby seat
section, there are usually some there in bubble packs that are grey.
- --
Andre
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Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:06:06 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Front End Completion

Buck Shoff wrote:

> Hi Rick,
> I used Grade 8 in my Ranger. I don't know if 5's will work or not, but
> think of the shock loads that they take when the front wheel hits something
> at speed. They also take a pretty good load during severe braking. Any
> way, I used 8's in the Ranger and haven't had any problems. Oh, I should
> mention that it is a 4x4 and used as such. I wouldn't use the 5's.
> Whatever you use, crawl back under in a couple hundred miles and check them
> for tight.

Yes I will and thank you for the opinion. I will be offroading for thenext two
weekends and the week of x-mas. I will go to grade-8 if I
see that they break.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:57:59 -0600
From: "Baldwin, Dave"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Cavitation.

OK.

I don't have a Diesel, although I have driven a few, and I've seen this
cavitation thing now on this list come up for a long time. Now I have to
know--I'm going to ask this stupid question:

What is the cause of the cavitation in the diesels? I thought it was a
design flaw in the Navistar cooling system, but now this post says that it
can happen in ANY diesel? What gives? I've never heard of this in a gas
engine, and the cooling system (water jackets, pump, etc.) cant be all that
different. Is this just because a gas engine won't last long enough to see
the problem?

Regards,
Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX


- -----Original Message-----
From: Moses O. McKnight [mailto:moses texoma.net]

Here are some things I'd check on before buying:

... snip ...

3. Make sure the owner put additive in the coolant. Otherwise there's a
possibility of holes in the cylinder walls due to cavitation. With only
120,000
miles that's not too likely though even without additive. All diesels can
have
this problem without the additive BTW.

Moses

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Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:11:23 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - grade 5 verses grade 8 bolts

bob chaytor wrote:

> Grade 8 bolts have a higher tensile strength which is the ability to
> resist being pulled apart. They are used when something needs to be
> torque like a head bolt. The forces are trying to pull it apart.
> Grade 5 bolts are actually tougher when it comes to sideways loads and
> in most applications are the better choice . Unless it is a straight
> pull use grade 5
>
> Rivet are usually made of low carbon steel, soft.

Thanx for the info, Bob

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:50:36 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Won't start

Casey writes: >> Ok I went ahead and bought a new battery also. Same
scenario, it will crank good for about 2 seconds and peter off into
nothing. We tried jumping it again, and even with good heavy jumper cables
I cannot get it to crank for more than one to two seconds.

Only other thing I can think of is that the "new" starter is "draging".
If it is a rebuilt, this is very possible. I've got several "bad" starters
from parts houses over the years. You might try to start it with the
headlamps on and have someone looking at the headlamps. If they go really
dim when you hit the starter, then it is either low voltage(low charge on
battery) or an excessive load(Draging starter). If you have jumpers on it
from another vehicle (good connections) , and the lights dim under the
starter load, then you've just confirmed the starter is bad.

Sorry for all the bad luck.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 08:58:09 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - What is Tire siping ??

Shy,

Can you sipe tires after they have been on your truck for a year?

Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From: shy anne [SMTP:jme_shy yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 1998 6:59 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What is Tire siping ??
>
> they cut thin slices in your tires for better traction on wet roads.
> there are more channels for the water to go through..instead of
> getting between the tire and the road. You can't tell that your tires
> have been siped by looking unless you look really close. Discount
> Tire siped my tires and I've noticed that I seem to have better
> traction on wet roads. This is how I understand siping anyway.
> Shy
>
>
>
>
> ---Lamar Zabielski wrote:
> >
> > What is siping? It sounds like making grooves for tire chains to fit
> in. How
> > old can a tire be? Does it work for cable?
> >
> > PS No way am I gonna change wheels to get my chains on.
> >
> > thanks,
> >
> > At 04:31 PM 12/9/98 -0700, 80-96-list ford-trucks.com wrote:
> > >Discount tire here in Colorado wanted to sipe my tires last July.
> > >
> > >> I'm curious
> > >> what tire chain is offering the siping?
> > >>
> > >> Tom in Phoenix
> > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
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> > >
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
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> >
>
> ==
> -"God forbid I shall go to any heaven where there are no horses."
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> >
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Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:46:58 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Front-End DONE !!!

Rick,
Just had to say it....see what ya get for having a 4 wheel drive? We 2 wheel
guys don't have all those problems. But then again we seem to get stuck more!
=P
Wayne Foy
'94 F150 Flareside Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/auto/index.htm
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Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 08:55:44 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Looking for fasteners

Thanks Chris I would appreciate any info you have found. I bought the
Haynes Ford tranny manual that has a whole section on the AOD. Did you find
a manual exclusively for the AOD? If you have an Eagle Hardware or similar
"warehouse" hardware store in your area you might check there for the clips,
the Eagle hardware near me has alot of different tree-style clips.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ferino, Chris
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Monday, December 14, 1998 12:16 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Looking for fasteners


>
>Someone recently mentioned those trim fasteners (the plastic
>"christmas-tree" type) that hold the inside body moldings in place - does
>anyone know where I can get a supply of these, light grey in color?
>Recently, while installing upgraded speakers in the back of my '93 Bronco,
I
>managed (even WITH the special tool) to beat up most all of the ones I
>needed to remove.
>
>I'm sure Ford sells 'em, in packs of 20 or so for some outrageous price -
so
>I'm looking for alternatives.
>
>Thanks!
>
>(Note to Rade - I've got a Haynes book on the rebuilding of the AOD, and
>I've seen some places advertised in some of the truck mags like 4WOR and
>Four Wheeler selling instructional videotapes. I think I saved the ads
>somewhere - if I locate them, I'll email the information on 'em to you.)
>
>--Chris
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:51:28 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 head gasket ?

Mike,
While I don't have much experience with the I6, I did just do a whole upper
rebuild on my 5.0L. Using air tools and two of my friends muscles, we changed
the cam, heads, lifters, pushrods, intake, and headers. This all took about 12
hours. If you have someone to help and all you are doing is the head gasket it
should PROBABLY take half as long on the I6. It is a good idea to get the
Haynes, Chilton's, or Ford service manual as all of these walk you through the
procedure. I hope I have helped.
Wayne Foy
'94 F150 Flareside Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/auto/index.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:57:51 -0500
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Won't start

In the event that you can't find somebody to help out by watching the
headlights while you're turning over the starter, and your neighbors don't
mind a little noise, you could lean on your horn while your lights are on
and you're carnking away (or at least trying to).
If the starter's causing a problem, you'll be able to hear it in the
sick sound of your horn.

Keeping plugging away, and best of luck with it!

- -Mike

- -----Original Message-----
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
To: 80-96-list Ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, December 14, 1998 11:45 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Won't start


Casey writes: >> Ok I went ahead and bought a new battery also. Same
scenario, it will crank good for about 2 seconds and peter off into
nothing. We tried jumping it again, and even with good heavy jumper cables
I cannot get it to crank for more than one to two seconds.

Only other thing I can think of is that the "new" starter is "draging".
If it is a rebuilt, this is very possible. I've got several "bad" starters
from parts houses over the years. You might try to start it with the
headlamps on and have someone looking at the headlamps. If they go really
dim when you hit the starter, then it is either low voltage(low charge on
battery) or an excessive load(Draging starter). If you have jumpers on it
from another vehicle (good connections) , and the lights dim under the
starter load, then you've just confirmed the starter is bad.

Sorry for all the bad luck.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:28:20 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bracket

ROlson1039 aol.com wrote:

> Look guy when youre done with yours mine needs new bushings too so Ill
> bring you my truck and a case of beer....

After the way my feels after crawling under the bronco the last2 nights and
most of the weekend I think 2 cases are in order. :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:16:39 -0600
From: "Baldwin, Dave"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 head gasket ?

Wayne,

What cam did you end up putting in the 5.0? Thought you were just doing
heads.
Did you ever hit the dyno?

Regards,
Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX


- -----Original Message-----
From: FLR150 aol.com [mailto:FLR150 aol.com]
Sent: Monday, December 14, 1998 10:51 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 head gasket ?


Mike,
While I don't have much experience with the I6, I did just do a whole upper
rebuild on my 5.0L. Using air tools and two of my friends muscles, we
changed
the cam, heads, lifters, pushrods, intake, and headers. This all took about
12
hours. If you have someone to help and all you are doing is the head gasket
it
should PROBABLY take half as long on the I6. It is a good idea to get the
Haynes, Chilton's, or Ford service manual as all of these walk you through
the
procedure. I hope I have helped.
Wayne Foy
'94 F150 Flareside Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/auto/index.htm
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:00:32 -0900
From: "L WALTERS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Radius arm bush

Chris asked:

And, I saw the discussion about the Radius Arm Bracket bushing, and 'm
not sure what this is. Could someone explain it to me. Is this
something specific to 4x4?
- -
It seems that any Ford product (E or F series) that has coil springs in for
the front suspension have Radius Arms. The arm ( there is two, right and
left) keeps the axle under the springs to make it simple, they are mounted
to the end of the axle just behind the ball joints and extend towards the
rear of the vehicle 18' to 24' (aprox). At the end of this arm (aft) is the
insulating bushing, it absorbs sudden or violent impacts from everyday
driving. this bushing slides over the end before the arm is placed in the
support bracket (which hangs from frame by rivets or bolts depending if it
has been changed before)
- -
How was that? CYA Bart-AK

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Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:22:33 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Cam and other stuff

Gang,
I ended up going with the E303 cam. While this cam is a little stout on the
duration side (very noticeable cylinder firing) at .498 duration, I have other
mods in store for my truck so I discretion being the better part of valor, I
opted for the bigger cam so as not to be too much under my future mods. I also
did do the heads, Dave. The heads I put on were GT40 irons, ported to a 1 5/8"
header and deck cut .003 to bring up the compression. I also did the new
lifters (should do these anyway with a new cam) and the headers. I am having
my upper intake ported (gasket matched) as the upper and lower airflow
chambers do not quite match up right. And for some show and go looks, they are
also polishing the exterior of the upper for me too. No, I haven't dyno'd it
yet. My Superchips programming cant keep up with the new cam and heads, so I
am shipping it back as I type to have it reprogrammed to include the new
goodies. I should have my chip back by Saturday. If this is the case, then I
am going to run it on a Dynojet on Saturday, just to see what I got out of it.
According to a machinist friend of mine that works for Ford my HP numbers
should look something like this:
RPM H. P. Torque
2000 136 357
2500 172 360
3000 210 368
3500 251 376
4000 288 378
4500 316 368
5000 331 347
5500 333 318
6000 319 279
6500 295 238
If all of the specs I sent him are dead on, this is what I should have. I
think I need to check into a higher stall convertor now....what do you guys
think?
Wayne Foy
'94 F150 Flareside Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/auto/index.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:29:13 -0500
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Looking for fasteners

I think that Eastwood sells them too and maybe J.C. Whitney (both on the Web). But
everything Eastwood sells is expensive and most of Whitney's stuff is cheap PRC
knockoffs.

Mike

Andre Roy wrote:

> "Ferino, Chris" wrote:
> >
> > Someone recently mentioned those trim fasteners (the plastic
> > "christmas-tree" type) that hold the inside body moldings in place - does
> > anyone know where I can get a supply of these, light grey in color?
> > Recently, while installing upgraded speakers in the back of my '93 Bronco, I
> > managed (even WITH the special tool) to beat up most all of the ones I
> > needed to remove.
> >
> > I'm sure Ford sells 'em, in packs of 20 or so for some outrageous price - so
> > I'm looking for alternatives.
> >
> Chrysler dealers will sell them individually, but they're black and I
> forget the price (but you can get them cheaper elsewhere) Just ask for
> the "Little plastic mushrooms that hold the car together" ;-) When I did
> that, the parts-droidess knew exactly what I was talking about.
>
> Up here, Canadian Tire sells them in little bibble packs in the "Help!"
> section. They're usually black, too. Now, if I go over to the baby seat
> section, there are usually some there in bubble packs that are grey.
> --
> Andre
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



- --

- ------------
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:05:41 -0500
From: Pete Serrino
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 302 Pinging/ Results (long)

For those who have been following this thread I thought I would pass
along some info I have learned.
This weekend I installed the Throttle Position Sensor on my '92 302.
Before removing the old sensor I checked the voltage at the pot wiper
(green wire) at the idle position by piercing the insulation with a pin.
With ignition on it read .996-.999 volts depending on exactly where the
throttle came to rest. Apparently the same as the 351 motors. The old
one did have a dead spot at about 2/3 throttle.
The round mounting holes do have enough slop to allow some adjustment.
I was able to swing the new unit between .930 and 1.04 volts. I ended up
at .996 volts.
Replacing the unit requires removing the throttle body and I managed to
break the Canister Purge Valve in the process (more later).
After reassembly I took the vehicle out and guess what? No change. It
still pinged when using half throttle accellerating from about 60 in OD
and 89 octane.
I decided to try and verify the ignition timing again. The marks were
obliterated by rust but after about an hour of wire brushing, painting,
etc I was able to find the 10 degree BTDC mark. My '91 manual shows the
reference mark to be at the end of the sheet metal marker and parallel
with marks on the balancer(?). The timing appeared to be about 10
degrees off (voila') but after resetting it was obvious it was
incorrect. Power was about half. The reference on the '92 is a V shaped
piece of sheet metal and apparently the center of the V is the correct
point. ( I know, I need a proper manual). Resetting to that point
restored the power. A couple of test runs and the pinging appears to
have cleared up. As best I can tell the timing was only about 2 degrees
off from its present setting. I'll be satisfied when it will not ping on
87 octane like it used to run.
BTW for those who are wondering I did remove the test plug when checking
timing and the motor was up to temp.
I have ordered a new Canister Valve but discovered a 2 part adhesive at
NAPA that will bond the plastic fitting. Prior to this I had never
successfully bonded these thermoplastics (Delrin??) but this stuff
appears to work.
Thanks for all your help!

Pete Serrino
F-150 and a bunch of bikes
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:45:24 -0800
From: "LanceS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Whats wrong ?

Hello everyone, As the owner of an 87 Bronco 5.0 AOD, I'm to the
point of wanting to take it out back and shoot it ! Heres the problem
that maybe someone knows something about. While driving at 40mph
the 4X4 and Low range lights flashed momentarily then went out. At the
same time the truck lurched into what seemed to be 4X Low and stayed
there. Heres what I've done to no avail.
Tranny and Tranfer Case service
GOOD
First was to check that the 4X module self tested.
GOOD
Removed the 4X4 actuator , Ops checked
GOOD
Removed front and rear shafts and ensured 4X4 disengaged GOOD
TV rod adjustment and operation
GOOD
Verified ratio change of gearing through speedo w/ shafts
removed. Ratios changed through all shifting.
Looked up all Ford Tech Service Bulletins concerning AOD and
or 1356 Auto Transfer Cases.
The problem seems as though the truck is in low range due to the fact that
when I try to drive it, at 25 mph its cranking 3500rpm. I can manual shift
from
1 through D and into OD the shifts are hard as if a shift kit had been put
into
valve body but haven't. When shifted directly into OD the up-shifts are
still hard
from the bottom up.
As a last resort, I have come to the belief that the reduction fork or the
lock-up
fork in the transfer case is jammed in low gear which is not allowing the
truck to go into Overdrive or 4th gear. Because there is no inspection plate
on the 1356 Electric Transer case to verify this Im to the point of either
dropping
the transfer case to bust it open or let the monkeys at the dealership work
on
it which isn't a preferred endeavor.
Any help would be appreciated.

Lance
87 Bronco 4X4 5.0 AOD
72 Mustang Conv. 302
93 T-bird 3.8


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 15:18:58 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Front-End DONE !!!

FLR150 aol.com wrote:

> Rick,
> Just had to say it....see what ya get for having a 4 wheel drive? We 2 wheel
> guys don't have all those problems. But then again we seem to get stuck more!

Be happy to pull you light weights out anytime. :-). I've been stuck
once in DEEP mud. So I started getting myself out until dark then
slept in the woods and finished getting myself out the next morning.
An ex-backpacker stays prepared for the worst. Extra toilet paper,
fire stick, chainsaw, and a bottle of water will keep ya going. :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:23:08 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Whats wrong ?

The only thing I could think of would be a short which caused the motor to
shift into lo-range at speed and the shift caused enough damage to jam it in
gear. I got rid of the electronic shift case in my Bronco and swapped in a
manual shift one. If your case does end up being shot I would suggest
swapping for the manual case, as it is quite easy to do and will probably
not cost any more than fixing the electronic case.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: LanceS
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, December 14, 1998 8:49 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Whats wrong ?


>Hello everyone, As the owner of an 87 Bronco 5.0 AOD, I'm to the
>point of wanting to take it out back and shoot it ! Heres the problem
>that maybe someone knows something about. While driving at 40mph
>the 4X4 and Low range lights flashed momentarily then went out. At the
>same time the truck lurched into what seemed to be 4X Low and stayed
>there. Heres what I've done to no avail.
> Tranny and Tranfer Case service
>GOOD
> First was to check that the 4X module self tested.
>GOOD
> Removed the 4X4 actuator , Ops checked
>GOOD
> Removed front and rear shafts and ensured 4X4 disengaged GOOD
> TV rod adjustment and operation
>GOOD
> Verified ratio change of gearing through speedo w/ shafts
> removed. Ratios changed through all shifting.
> Looked up all Ford Tech Service Bulletins concerning AOD and
> or 1356 Auto Transfer Cases.
>The problem seems as though the truck is in low range due to the fact that
>when I try to drive it, at 25 mph its cranking 3500rpm. I can manual shift
>from
>1 through D and into OD the shifts are hard as if a shift kit had been put
>into
>valve body but haven't. When shifted directly into OD the up-shifts are
>still hard
>from the bottom up.
>As a last resort, I have come to the belief that the reduction fork or the
>lock-up
>fork in the transfer case is jammed in low gear which is not allowing the
>truck to go into Overdrive or 4th gear. Because there is no inspection
plate
>on the 1356 Electric Transer case to verify this Im to the point of either
>dropping
>the transfer case to bust it open or let the monkeys at the dealership work
>on
>it which isn't a preferred endeavor.
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
>Lance
>87 Bronco 4X4 5.0 AOD
>72 Mustang Conv. 302
>93 T-bird 3.8
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:37:06 PST
From: "Scottie Schmidt"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Thank You

Hi, First I would like to thankyou all for all of the info you gave me
on bedsizes, and a snow plowing truck, and a farm truck. Well just to
update you, my grandfather has decided to get a F-150 4x4 :-((
I just sent him a message 4k long stating messages you guys sent to me
plus my own input on why he should get a F-250. I keep telling him he
will have good power and tons of other stuff, but he says a F-150 will
do for him. He would rather get a newer truck with lower miles, and
this truck will have this.
He will not be able to get his truck till spring though. The reason
is his car will not sell right now since it is so close to Christmas.
If you don't mind I would like to add a small classified ad.
Wanted:
92 or newer F-150 4x4
automatic
low milage
tow package
possibly snow plow
under $13,000
For Sale:
Honda Accord 4 dr.
Low milage
tinted windows
full power
I believe it is about $14,500 or best offer
If interested call 610-358-3682 (will be moving on Fri.)
Scottie Schmidt


______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 17:44:42 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Front-End DONE !!!

Rick,
Mines a street queen to be sure...but not THAT much of street queen. Even when
I lower it I'll still be able to go curb hopping if I have to.

Wayne Foy
'94 F150 Flareside Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/auto/index.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 19:18:23 -0500
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1985 351 owners

does anyone else have a 1985 F150 351 with a marine carb on it? and why is
there a marine carb on it anyway? its all OEM too.
more confused, still need a carb.
mike p.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 18:05:22 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Won't start

Might be possible that the ring gear is worn enough to 'ride' hard on any
starter drive.

Bob


am14 daimlerchrysler.com wrote:

> Casey writes: >> Ok I went ahead and bought a new battery also. Same
> scenario, it will crank good for about 2 seconds and peter off into
> nothing. We tried jumping it again, and even with good heavy jumper cables
> I cannot get it to crank for more than one to two seconds.
>
> Only other thing I can think of is that the "new" starter is "draging".
> If it is a rebuilt, this is very possible. I've got several "bad" starters
> from parts houses over the years. You might try to start it with the
> headlamps on and have someone looking at the headlamps. If they go really
> dim when you hit the starter, then it is either low voltage(low charge on
> battery) or an excessive load(Draging starter). If you have jumpers on it
> from another vehicle (good connections) , and the lights dim under the
> starter load, then you've just confirmed the starter is bad.
>
> Sorry for all the bad luck.
>
> Azie
> Ardmore, Al.
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 18:28:38 -0800
From: "Dennis R. Fischer"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1985 351 owners

Mike

Well, my 86 F250 351W came with a Motorcraft (made by Holley) 4 barrel carb.
I have no idea why yours would have a marine carb.

Dennis

- -----Original Message-----
From: PmctBaker
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, December 14, 1998 4:30 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1985 351 owners


>does anyone else have a 1985 F150 351 with a marine carb on it? and why
is
>there a marine carb on it anyway? its all OEM too.
> more confused, still need a carb.
>mike p.
>
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------------------------------

Date: 14 Dec 98 08:59:46 EST
From: CharlesASkarsaune eaton.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - grade 5 verses grade 8 bolts

>Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 18:44:22 -0800
>From: bob chaytor
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - grade 5 verses grade 8 bolts

>Grade 8 bolts have a higher tensile strength which is the ability to
>resist being pulled apart. They are used when something needs to be
>torque like a head bolt. The forces are trying to pull it apart.
>Grade 5 bolts are actually tougher when it comes to sideways loads and
>in most applications are the better choice . Unless it is a straight
>pull use grade 5

Umm...bull. And potential dangerous mis-information.
Shear loading is what you are calling sideways loads, and the
shear strength of steel is .75 the tensile strength.
Grade 5 bolts are rated at 120,000 psi tensile, therefore 90,000 psi in
shear loading. Grade 8 bolts are minimum 150,000 psi tensile, 112,500 psi
shear.
For a bolt of a given cross section size, the grade 8 bolt is stronger, no
matter what the loading is. Check your Machinery's Handbook or other
engineering handbook.

Chuck Skarsaune

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 00:57:07 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Cam and other stuff

Wayne,
I just read an interesting tech tip in one of my Summit catalogs. The
'rated' stall speed of any given converter is based on a particular
horsepower of an engine. The horsepower output has a direct effect on
the stall speed. I don't remember any specifics, but if your buddy
knows his stuff, then you are already ahead of the game. Call
(summit, jegs, whoever) and you know your hp and torque output at the
crank, tranny gearing and rear-end gearing and what kind of driving
you do. This should get you dead on for the type of converter you
want.

Later,
Brew

FLR150 aol.com wrote:
>
> Gang,

- -----snip-----

I
> think I need to check into a higher stall convertor now....what do you guys
> think?
> Wayne Foy
> '94 F150 Flareside Supercab
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/auto/index.htm
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 01:04:52 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Looking for fasteners

Chris:

Ferino, Chris wrote:
>
> Someone recently mentioned those trim fasteners (the plastic
> "christmas-tree" type) that hold the inside body moldings in place - does
> anyone know where I can get a supply of these, light grey in color?

- -----snip-----

Is there a particular reason that the color makes a difference? You
won't see them anyway, will you? :)
I think I've also seen them in the 'help' section at the auto parts
store.

Later,
Brew
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 01:10:49 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Heater Control Problems

Roger and gang,
Ok, along the lines of heater control problems. My '87 has no air,
but has the horizontal vent selector. Defrost is on the far left and
I cannot seem to get the control all the way over. I don't remember
the order, but there are three other selections. So whatever the
second from left is (floor?) will get some of the air when I try to
move it to defrost. Seems the cable is too tight, but I never got in
there to check. The other three seem to work just fine, just not the
defrost end of the selector. Anyone have any ideas?

Later,
Brew

Roger Lane wrote:
>
>
> I found the problem. There is a flapper in the airbox under the dash that
> diverts the air to the AC ducts. What it felt like (I could not see it) was
> that it was supposed to be on a hinge, but the hinge was broke. So what I
> did was force it closed, so now it diverts the air to another valve that....


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