80-96-list-digest Thursday, December 10 1998 Volume 02 : Number 411



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - K&N PRODUCTS
Re: FTE 80-96 - NEW TO THE GROUP
FTE 80-96 - Re:Bed sizes
Re: FTE 80-96 - K&N PRODUCTS
FTE 80-96 - 302/5L pinging revisited
Re: FTE 80-96 - 302/5L pinging revisited
Re: FTE 80-96 - 302/5L pinging revisited
FTE 80-96 - Dodges, and other fine ;^) Chrysler products.
RE: FTE 80-96 - Idle problems with new engine
Re: FTE 80-96 - 302/5L pinging revisited
Re: FTE 80-96 - K&N PRODUCTS
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Chat
FTE 80-96 - need a holley 4 bbl 4160
FTE 80-96 - Tire siping
Re: FTE 80-96 - K&N PRODUCTS
Re: FTE 80-96 - BRAKE WARNING LIGHT +REAR ANTI-LOCK LIGHT 88 BRONCO
FTE 80-96 - Re: 1997 F250HD Front axle alignment
Re: FTE 80-96 - need a holley 4 bbl 4160
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dodges, and other fine ;^) Chrysler products.
Re: FTE 80-96 - NEW TO THE GROUP
Re: FTE 80-96 - need a holley 4 bbl 4160
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dodges, and other fine ;^) Chrysler products.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Tire siping
FTE 80-96 - AOD help?
RE: FTE 80-96 - Dodges, and other fine ;^) Chrysler products.
RE: FTE 80-96 - Tire siping
Re: FTE 80-96 - 302/5L pinging revisited
FTE 80-96 - Re: Starting Problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Starting Problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - snow&ice recommendations?
FTE 80-96 - What is Tire siping ??
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Starting Problem

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Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 07:04:28 -0500
From: "Norman Maranda"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - K&N PRODUCTS

Hi All Anyone know where there is a good cheap place to Order K&N Stuff over
the internet?? Also I'm thinking of installing a K&N FIPK in my 1994 Ford F150
4x4 with a 5.0l engine. Have any of you used one of these kits? Do You have any
advice opinions ect on them. Also is there a huge advantage over using this
FIPK
instead of just the air filter???? Thanks in advance for the info


NOM



- --
NAME: Norman J. Maranda Jr.
TITLE: SENIOR STRESS ANALYST
DEPT: D464
E-MAIL ADDRESS: nmaranda gdeb.com
WORK #: (860) 433-1652
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Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 06:08:04 -0600
From: bgarrett
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - NEW TO THE GROUP

no need to shout sam.....

Ellsworth, Sam wrote:

> HELLO GROUP,
> I AM NEW TO THIS LIST, JUST THOUGHT I WOULD INTRODUCE MYSELF HERE.
> MY NAME IS SAM ELLSWORTH, I LIVE IN UTAH, I WAS RAISED IN THE CHEV
> FAMILY AND CONVERTED TO FORD AS SOON AS I COULD. I AM A MEMBER OF THE
> FALCON DIGEST GROUP ALSO, I HAVE A 69 FALCON WITH 80,OOO ON IT. I HAVE
> LEARNED SO MUCH FROM THESE DIGESTS. I FINALLY FOUND ONE FOR MY TRUCK
> ALSO.
> MY TRUCK IS AN 88 MODEL F-140 WITH THE MAZDA 5-SPEED TRANNY AND A 302
> MOTOR. IT IS AN XLT MODEL AND HAS BEEN PRETTY GOOD TO ME SINCE I BOUGHT
> IT IN 1994. I HAVE 33" TIRES ON IT AND HAVE DONE ALL THE WORK ON IT THAT
> I CAN. I HAVE REPLACED THE CLUTCH AND BY DEFAULT GONE THROUGH THE AXLE
> AND INSTALLED AN AUBURN LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL IN ALSO. RIGHT NOW THE
> FRONT TANK PUMP IS NOT WORKING AND MY BOY AND I WENT TO THE STORE THE
> OTHER DAY AND THE KEY SWITCH WENT OUT. I AM TOLD THAT IT IS THE
> ACTUATOR. .I COULD JUMP THE STARTER RELAY AND GET HOME OK, BUT I NEED TO
> GET IT FIXED SOON (AS TIME WILL PERMIT IN THIS BUSY SEASON)
> I DID HAVE A QUESTION FOR THE GROUP, I AM LOOKING AT LIFT KITS FOR MY
> TRUCK AND AM LOOKING FOR ADVICE ON WHICH ONE AS FAR AS COST AND QUALITY
> GO. I OUT A 2" FROM TUFF COUNTRY ON A 84 BRONCO THAT I HAD AND WAS NOT
> IMPRESSED WITH THE TWO BOLTS WITH THE HEADS WELDED TOGETHER FOR THE
> BLOCKS IN THE FRONT.
> WELL, THAT IS ALL FOR NOW, SINCE I HAVE BORED YOU TO SLEEP. I HOPE TO
> HAVE AS MUCH FUN IN THIS GROUP AS IN THE FALCON DIGEST.
> SAM ELLSWORTH
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Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 05:50:18 -0700
From: Ken Justice
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:Bed sizes

Scottie,

According to the info I have, Ford bed sizes are as listed:

Full Size: 73 to 95 Long Bed 65" x 97 3/4", Short Bed 65 x 81 1/2"
Flareside (Full): 92 on, 48 1/2" x 82"
Ranger 82 on: Long Bed 51 1/2" x 83 1/4", Short 51 1/2" x 71 1/4"
Ranger Splash: 93 on: 44 1/2" x 71 1/4"

The 96 -97 full size lengths are about the same varying from 78 1/2"
for the reg cab to 81 1/2" for a super cab.

Hope this info answers your question.

Regards,
Ken Justice
Discover the Working Mat!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.workingmat.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 07:55:33 -0500
From: "Michael Redden"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - K&N PRODUCTS

Norm:

I've had good luck ordering stuff from Jegs
although Summit is about the same price. They charge for handling,but
not for shipping. At NAPA I got a K&N for the car at about the same
price as what I would have paid if I ordered a filter only. Unless you
order
more than one item, it isn't always cost effective to order online.
It does save you from having to go to shopping centers, though.

I've only used the filter replacement on my '87 LTD 5.0.
There was some difference. On my non-fuel injected ''85 truck,
there was a much bigger difference in acceleration and pedal response.

Mike

michael redden enter.net

> Hi All Anyone know where there is a good cheap place to Order K&N Stuff
over
> the internet?? Also I'm thinking of installing a K&N FIPK in my 1994 Ford
F150
> 4x4 with a 5.0l engine. Have any of you used one of these kits? Do You
have any
> advice opinions ect on them. Also is there a huge advantage over using
this
> FIPK
> instead of just the air filter???? Thanks in advance for the info
>
> NOM

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Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 09:13:21 -0500
From: Pete Serrino
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 302/5L pinging revisited

A few days ago I posted regarding my '92 302 and a pinging problem I had
no responses yet but more data has come to light.
I reset the computer codes and have been able to regenerate an error
related to the Throttle Position sensor. I assume this could be the
culprit if it was causing a too lean condition.
I don't have any installation data on these. My Haynes manual tells me
to take it to the dealer. The TPS appears to be simple potentiometer. I
intend to take a resistence reading on the old one at the idle position
and then install the new one so the reading is the same. I presume this
could be done by measuring voltage at some point as well with the
ignition on.
Can anyone tell me the proper way to install this device? No dealers
please :)

Cheers,
Pete Serrino
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Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 10:23:08 -0500
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 302/5L pinging revisited

I reset the computer codes and have been able to regenerate an error
related to the Throttle Position sensor. I assume this could be the
culprit if it was causing a too lean condition.
I don't have any installation data on these. My Haynes manual tells me
to take it to the dealer. The TPS appears to be simple potentiometer. I
intend to take a resistence reading on the old one at the idle position
and then install the new one so the reading is the same. I presume this
could be done by measuring voltage at some point as well with the
ignition on.



You have the idea, the only problem is that the old TPS may have the
wrong reading at idle. I am not sure what voltage yours should be I know
my 5.8 is .995. This could very well be your pinging problem!
Chris
94 Lightning #381
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Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 10:24:16 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 302/5L pinging revisited

Pete Serrino wrote:

> I reset the computer codes and have been able to regenerate an error
> related to the Throttle Position sensor. I assume this could be the
> culprit if it was causing a too lean condition.
>
Sounds possible.

> I don't have any installation data on these. My Haynes manual tells me
> to take it to the dealer. The TPS appears to be simple potentiometer.
>
it is.



> I
> intend to take a resistence reading on the old one at the idle position
>
Test the whole thing. Unplug the wires from it. You will have either two
or three wires (and pins) on it. If there are two, the resistance should
vary nice and linearly from Closed to WFO. If there are three, then the
resistance between two of them should remeain constant, while the
resistance from the other pin to one will be linear from Closed to WFO
and from that pin to the other should be the same, but the other way
around (high to low R for one set, low to high for the other set)


-----/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\------
| ^ |
| | |


Above would be a three pin setup. From the centre to one end should vary
linearly from closed to WFO, going up, from the centre to the other end
should vary linearly with position going down.

If you get sudden jumps in resistance or breaks (infinite or zero),
replace the TPS.

A two pin will be much the same, but one 'end' pin won't be there.

Also check any and all wiring you can find going to and from the TPS.


> and then install the new one so the reading is the same. I presume this
> could be done by measuring voltage at some point as well with the
> ignition on.
>
Measure resistance with the ignition off, heck, with the battery
disconnected.



> Can anyone tell me the proper way to install this device? No dealers
> please :)
>
never seen one on a Ford Truck (or car), so sorry, I can't help you, but
a likely place is on the opposite side of the throttle body from the
throttle cable linkage. Usually just unscrew one and screw in the other.
You don't need to remove it to test it, just unplug the wires (and the
battery) and move the throttle though its' full range.

> Cheers,
>
I'll dring to that ;-)

- --
Andre
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Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 09:47:07 -0600
From: "Baldwin, Dave"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dodges, and other fine ;^) Chrysler products.

Just want to chime in on the Dodge thing: we bought a Dodge Minivan about a
year and a half ago. Since then it has been in seven (yes, 7) times to
repair the air conditioner. Finally I had it, threw the keys at the service
manager, and said something like, "Keep this son-of-a-buck until you find
the problem". It was in the shop for 17 days before they found the screw
that had skewered a hose. Now, with 9000 miles on it, it has developed a
main seal leak. Thank god I bought the extended warranty! There's no end
in sight!

Now, I had a '71 Charger with a 383 in it, and it was a great vehicle. That
was the "old" Chrysler Corporation though. If you insist on getting a
Dodge, make sure you get an extended warranty!

On the other hand, my '95 F-150 has been quite reliable. Casey, you have
had more bad experiences with your truck than any ten list members put
together. One gets the impression that you're building a truck from scratch
by buying parts! I'm sorry you've had such a bad experience. Of course
your environment may be extra harsh on vehicles--it may be more of an age
thing than who made it. You might want to save up a little more than $400,
and buy something a little newer.

Regards,
Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX


- -----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Snow and ICe recomendations

>Bad news... I have decided that my Ford is too expensive to maintain and
>I am going to have to get rid of it

Before I knew better, I owned a Dodge. Here's a list of
what was done to it in a two year period:

1. 318 V8 was rebuilt
2. Transmission rebuilt twice
3. Replaced voltage regulator
4. Replaced ignition switch
5. Replaced rear brake hardware (all of it)
6. Had the frame welded (it cracked)
7. Replace broken left coil spring (yes, broken, a minor speed bump
hit at 25 mph instead of 10 mph snapped it)
8. Replaced ***all*** the under dash wiring after it caught fire
9. Replaced the radiator
10. Replaced the alternator
11. Replaced the radio when it gave up the ghost
12. Replaced 2 bed mounts

Ken

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Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 10:43:46 -0600
From: "Baldwin, Dave"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Idle problems with new engine

Robert,

Can't say what is wrong exactly, but some things to think about:

(1) Firing order change! I don't know if your system was sequential (timed,
just like ignition) fuel injection or batch fire (all fire together), but if
sequential, the fuel injector firing order must be changed as well.

(2) E303 cam. Never used one, but '92 5.0L truck motors didn't have mass
air systems--they are "speed-density". This means that the controller is
programmed to deliver fuel and spark as related to sensor readings like
manifold pressure (vacuum), temperature, engine speed, O2, etc. When you
install a new cam, the manifold vaccuum (especially at idle) signal can
deviate greatly from stock. Of course there's a change in air consumption,
but without a mass-airflow sensor, it doesn't know this and cannot
compensate.

(3) Vacuum leak? Fuel pressure regulator? You don't say if it's puking out
black smoke or not. Can you read your O2 sensors? These can tell you if
you're rich or lean.

(4) Cam timing? I have a friend who tried and tried to get an engine to
start, and I jokingly said, "Maybe you got the cam in upside-down". Turned
out to be true! Obviously, it wouldn't even run if this were the case, but
maybe off 20 degrees or so? I know this seems rediculous, but sometimes we
overlook the simple things.

If it's (1), you've got some wiring to do, but it should be relatively
simple. If (2), you've got two choices: (a) convert to mass air, or, (b)
find someone who can reprogram your speed-density system. I've seen a lot
of interest lately on converting to mass air, but there's no reason that
speed-density can't be made to work--you just have to find someone who can
program it. Some 5.0 Mustang racers actually prefer speed density because
it isn't encumbered by the additional restriction of the mass-air sensor.
If it's (3), you've got some detective work to do. It would seem like you
could double-check the cam timing without tearing everything down. You know
the duration and lobe centers, so you could put a dial indicator on the
rocker and see where it starts to move in relation to the crank position.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

Regards,
Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX


- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert E. Tyler [mailto:rtyler csonline.net]
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 10:46 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Idle problems with new engine


A couple of weeks ago I posted a message sub: cam problems, and so far no
response, I'll try once more. I rebuilt the 5.0 EFI motor in my '92 F150
4X4 as a result of losing nbr. 2 piston (after 89K miles). the cylinders
had to bored to .030 because of scoring of nbr. 2 (all other cylinders
showed only normal wear.), new pistons, standard head job, ie, normal
rebuild procedures. I installed a Ford Motorsport E303 cam and a mass air
system after consulting with the SVO technicians. I followed what I
believed to be all the right procedures, including shiming the rockers,
changing the firing order, but obviously, I have skipped something. The
problem is with the idle. It will not idle on its own when cold and idles
rough when at normal running temp and seems to lack the power one would
expect from a new engine with these mods. If any of you good folks out
there in Ford land has any suggestions or knows of anyone who can give
advice , I would greatly appreciate any kind words of wistom. You may Email
me at rtyler csonline.net. Thanks, robert.

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Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 12:05:22 -0500
From: Pete Serrino
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 302/5L pinging revisited

Thanks Chris,
Mine seems to idle OK. I'll bet I have a noisy spot somewhere in the
middle. My '85 had a TPS go at idle. It would range up and down, or quit
without any input from me. Hopefully someone will confirm the setting for
the 302 motor. I am surprised the setting is out three decimal places.

Pete Serrino

At 10:23 AM 12/9/98 -0500, you wrote:
>You have the idea, the only problem is that the old TPS may have the
>wrong reading at idle. I am not sure what voltage yours should be I know
>my 5.8 is .995. This could very well be your pinging problem!
>Chris
>94 Lightning #381
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>

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Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 11:24:30 -0800
From: "Matt and Deidre"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - K&N PRODUCTS

I talked with K&N about that FIPK for my 93 F150 with a 5.0 L and a 5 speed.
They said it gave 12 hp on a dyno test. It also cost $250 from them. Thats
a little to much considering all you get is a cone filter that replaces your
air box. I bought the K&N replacement filter and noticed no differance. I
think you could go with a different brand and save some money and still get
a reusable filter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Norman Maranda
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 4:17 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - K&N PRODUCTS


>Hi All Anyone know where there is a good cheap place to Order K&N Stuff
over
>the internet?? Also I'm thinking of installing a K&N FIPK in my 1994 Ford
F150
>4x4 with a 5.0l engine. Have any of you used one of these kits? Do You have
any
>advice opinions ect on them. Also is there a huge advantage over using this
>FIPK
>instead of just the air filter???? Thanks in advance for the info
>
>
>NOM
>
>
>
>--
>NAME: Norman J. Maranda Jr.
>TITLE: SENIOR STRESS ANALYST
>DEPT: D464
>E-MAIL ADDRESS: nmaranda gdeb.com
>WORK #: (860) 433-1652
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>

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Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 13:00:16 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Chat

Notes on our web chat:

1. Windows95-Netscape will sometimes beep in versions prior to
4.0b3 when you hit the enter key.

2. Unfortunately, the implementation of earlier (pre 4.0) Java
on the Macintosh browsers leaves a lot to be desired. These
Macintosh versions of Netscape have some serious memory
problems. An article discussing some of the problems with
these versions can be found at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.news.com/Rumormill/Archives/rum10_11_96.html

Newer versions should work, but may have performance problems.

3. AOL uses a proxy server to access the Internet. The vast
majority of ISPs don't. With a proxy server, you are not
connected directly to the Internet. Chat will not work
with many proxy servers (including AOL's) and some
firewalls.

4. For PCs: To use it, you must be running Internet Explorer
3.0 (or later) or Netscape Navigator 3.0 (or later), or
another Java-enabled browser. For best results, we highly
recommend Internet Explorer 3.02 and Netscape 3.01, both
of which contain crucial bug fixes over their 3.0 versions.

5. Netscape Navigator 3.0 users (Standard or Gold versions):
You may very well experience a browser crash. This is due
to a memory leak problem in the Navigator software -- not
the Java code. We recommend upgrading to at least version
3.01.

6. Netscape 3.x browsers on Linux have major Java problems.

7. Sometimes Internet Explorer 4 acts flakey (crashes).

8. When the telnet version is released (soon), you can use
telnet to chat instead of your browser. This may work
with AOL too.

9. If AOL does not work with telnet, we may consider adding
HTML CGI chat. This option will only be available if we
can afford to upgrade our server because HTML CGI chat
places an enormous load on the system.


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Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 13:13:32 -0500
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - need a holley 4 bbl 4160

does anyone know where i can find a new carb. for my 85 351? i put a
rebuilt one on last year and its shot already. i was had by a SUPERIOR
RADIATOR and CARB place in calif. but im in ohio. when will i learn?

gonna need one soon
thanks
mike p
85 f-150 4x4

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Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 11:15:40 -0700
From: Tom Higgins
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Tire siping

Greetings,

I've been away so maybe I'm missing something on the thread but I'll add my
$.02 worth.

Siping is indeed (as I remember) cross cutting of the tread of the tire. I
grew up in eastern Washington State (not to be confused with west side).
Anyway, I had siping on my regular tires for five years while I lived in
Seattle for school. For those of you who aren't sure, it DOES rain as much
as they say. Anyway, it seemed to help some with traction. I didn't
notice any extensive wear problems and put a fair number of miles on the
rubber. Sometime later I went to buy tires for a different vehicle
(neither trucks) and they said that they didn't sipe anymore. I'm curious
what tire chain is offering the siping? As far as snow, being an
enlightened state (at least on the east side) studded tires are (unless it
has changed) legal. If you can get studded tires for snow, definately do
it with about 500 to 1,000 pounds over the rear axle. You'll go anywhere,
even with plain old two wheel drive. I used to drive mountain passes almost
every weekend so I've had some experience. Just watch out for hard, packed
ice. Nothing works for that. If you can't use studded tires where you
live, I recommend the following if chains are allowed in specific severe
conditions. Get a second set of wheels and some decent but not expensive
rubber for the rear. Put on chains. Wire them up nice and tight with
baling wire. Carry them with you in the winter as extra weight. If you
need chains, all you have to do is change the tires. Believe me, this is
MUCH easier than lying in snow and slush trying to get some chains on with
the tires on the truck. You also have less chance of a poorly installed
chain cutting loose and damaging the body.

I hope this helps. There are not to many questions I can answer with the
authority of the regular posters.

Tom in Phoenix


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Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 13:16:00 -0500
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - K&N PRODUCTS

Counterpoint: I saw a very dramatic increase in power at highway speeds
with the simple K&N replacement filter on my '95 F150 4x4 302 w/mass air and
E4OD. I only installed it about a week ago, but I feel that, for the money,
it's the best thing I could have done for the truck. An off-the-line
performance increase isn't really noticeable, but since most of my time is
spent on the highway, that was fine with me. I've found that the
transmission doesn't need to downshift as often, and shifts are far
smoother.

- -Mike

- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt and Deidre
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 12:43 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - K&N PRODUCTS


I talked with K&N about that FIPK for my 93 F150 with a 5.0 L and a 5 speed.
They said it gave 12 hp on a dyno test. It also cost $250 from them. Thats
a little to much considering all you get is a cone filter that replaces your
air box. I bought the K&N replacement filter and noticed no differance. I
think you could go with a different brand and save some money and still get
a reusable filter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Norman Maranda
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 4:17 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - K&N PRODUCTS


>Hi All Anyone know where there is a good cheap place to Order K&N Stuff
over
>the internet?? Also I'm thinking of installing a K&N FIPK in my 1994 Ford
F150
>4x4 with a 5.0l engine. Have any of you used one of these kits? Do You have
any
>advice opinions ect on them. Also is there a huge advantage over using this
>FIPK
>instead of just the air filter???? Thanks in advance for the info
>
>
>NOM
>
>
>
>--
>NAME: Norman J. Maranda Jr.
>TITLE: SENIOR STRESS ANALYST
>DEPT: D464
>E-MAIL ADDRESS: nmaranda gdeb.com
>WORK #: (860) 433-1652
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 10:29:13 -0800
From: Andy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - BRAKE WARNING LIGHT +REAR ANTI-LOCK LIGHT 88 BRONCO

hey, i had the same problem last week... the brake pedal felt fine so i
thought it was just some freak sensor. so i drove home (2 hours). by the
time i was home, the brakes were very mushy. i looked behind the wheels and
found that the rear right was covered with fluid. looked in the engine
compartment and found that the brake fluid reservoir was almost dry! turns
out that the brake cylinder (is that what you call it?) was leaking bad.
$25 and two hours of work and it was good as new. hope this helps.

andy
89 bronco 5.0


Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 07:21:56 EST
From: Olivj aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - BRAKE WARNING LIGHT +REAR ANTI-LOCK LIGHT 88 BRONCO

Driving along at about 25 mph last night both antilock and brake lights came
on at the same time .Brake pedal felt fine afterwards no mushiness .Any ideas
where to start looking for problems ?Please reply direct to me as i am only on
the digest at the moment .Thanks in advance .
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Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 12:36:06 -0600
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 1997 F250HD Front axle alignment

Bret wrote in part;

>Recently I noticed that while looking at the front of my truck, the drivers
side tire appeared to stick out past the fender while the passenger side
tire was under the fender.

I have also noticed this about Ford trucks. On my '90 F150 4x2 the
passenger side front tire is tucked under the fender an inch or so farther
than the drivers side. As a matter of fact, while shopping for a used
truck, I rejected two that I knew had been in accidents because I thought
they were hopelessly bunged up. I finally purchased the '90 F150 that I
knew had not been wrecked even with this strange asymmetrical front end. I
just figure these trucks are designed this way. I don't know why. Any
other observations or comments?

David Anderson
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Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 15:20:05 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - need a holley 4 bbl 4160

Mike,
I'll have to check tonite for you for sure, but I think Jeg's has
Holly 4160's in their catalog. Summit may too, they're both in Ohio,
Columbus and Akron respectively.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.summitracing.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jegs.com

Later,
Brew

PmctBaker wrote:
>
> does anyone know where i can find a new carb. for my 85 351? i put a
> rebuilt one on last year and its shot already. i was had by a SUPERIOR
> RADIATOR and CARB place in calif. but im in ohio. when will i learn?
>
> gonna need one soon
> thanks
> mike p
> 85 f-150 4x4
>
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Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 14:22:00 -0500
From: Chris Porter
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dodges, and other fine ;^) Chrysler products.

well, being the proud owner of both a Dodge and a Ford, i can say that i'm
very happy with both so far..
my first vehicle was an 89 ford ranger supercab.. when i bought it (for
$3k) it had 115k miles on it. until now it has lasted me for 3 years w/only
1 problem; an oil leak. now it is dead (w/160k miles on it) in a garage
because the starter died again and a slightly more serious problem of which
i'm not quite sure what it is but it looks bad. it's amazing the bond
people get with their cars & trucks, i knew 1 week in advance about every
problem that happend.. i dont know how, but i just knew. this most recent
one, i knew was going to happen about 2 weeks before it actually did & it
actually happened w/o any physical warning.. but some how i knew.. strange eh.
I knew that this was the start of lots of problems (and i have major
upgrades planned involving a 302 or a 351 engine), so i went out and bought
a brand spankin new 99 dakota sport which so far has been great.. it only
has 1500 miles on it, but that seems to mean everything is working fine. i
say this becuase my roommate bought a 99 neon and has had it in the shop 2x
w/in about 800 miles of owning it. turned out that the power steering belt
had been put on inside out so it poped off on the highway and caused some
'small' steering problems ;). so far though the Dakota has been treating me
very well.. the only issue 'we' (the truck and i) have is that the truck
keeps trying to burn me when the heat is on but hey.. it's young &
trainable right :)
at any rate the point is, if you have to buy a dodge, the dakota sport is
supposed to/ and is pretty reliable.. and has way too much horspower for
it's own good. :) hehe
neway.. just thought i'd share my two cents..
- -chris







At 09:47 AM 12/9/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Just want to chime in on the Dodge thing: we bought a Dodge Minivan about a
>year and a half ago. Since then it has been in seven (yes, 7) times to
>repair the air conditioner. Finally I had it, threw the keys at the service
>manager, and said something like, "Keep this son-of-a-buck until you find
>the problem". It was in the shop for 17 days before they found the screw
>that had skewered a hose. Now, with 9000 miles on it, it has developed a
>main seal leak. Thank god I bought the extended warranty! There's no end
>in sight!
>
>Now, I had a '71 Charger with a 383 in it, and it was a great vehicle. That
>was the "old" Chrysler Corporation though. If you insist on getting a
>Dodge, make sure you get an extended warranty!
>
>On the other hand, my '95 F-150 has been quite reliable. Casey, you have
>had more bad experiences with your truck than any ten list members put
>together. One gets the impression that you're building a truck from scratch
>by buying parts! I'm sorry you've had such a bad experience. Of course
>your environment may be extra harsh on vehicles--it may be more of an age
>thing than who made it. You might want to save up a little more than $400,
>and buy something a little newer.
>
>Regards,
>Dave Baldwin
>Dallas, TX
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Snow and ICe recomendations
>
>>Bad news... I have decided that my Ford is too expensive to maintain and
>>I am going to have to get rid of it
>
>Before I knew better, I owned a Dodge. Here's a list of
>what was done to it in a two year period:
>
>1. 318 V8 was rebuilt
>2. Transmission rebuilt twice
>3. Replaced voltage regulator
>4. Replaced ignition switch
>5. Replaced rear brake hardware (all of it)
>6. Had the frame welded (it cracked)
>7. Replace broken left coil spring (yes, broken, a minor speed bump
> hit at 25 mph instead of 10 mph snapped it)
>8. Replaced ***all*** the under dash wiring after it caught fire
>9. Replaced the radiator
>10. Replaced the alternator
>11. Replaced the radio when it gave up the ghost
>12. Replaced 2 bed mounts
>
>Ken
>
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- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----

"One cannot be betrayed if one has no people"
-Kobayashi
(The Usual Suspects)
(1996 polygram entertainment)

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
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Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 14:39:11 EST
From: DJ250r aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - NEW TO THE GROUP

Sam if its a 4x4 leafs, and shocks, but if you got a 2x4 there are a lot of
things to do here Fabtech
Motorsports is one place to start. These guys have the real kits not like
the bolt on drop down junk you would see in a mag or 4wheel part store.
Theres other fab shops here but this is the only one that has a web site.
Dwayne Jackson
so.cal.dez.
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Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 14:50:26 -0500
From: "Michael Redden"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - need a holley 4 bbl 4160

I was gonna suggest those Jegs and Summit, too!

I will say that Jegs has been very helpful:
I had to return about $300 worth of parts
for an engine I decided not to use.
Jegs took it all back CHEERFULLY.
When I needed help decided which parts to use
I got it with no "talking down" to me 'cause I'm not a mechanic.
I've since ordered a few times since, no problems.

Summit is supposed to be good, too.

Mike

michael redden enter.net

> Mike,
> I'll have to check tonite for you for sure, but I think Jeg's has
> Holly 4160's in their catalog. Summit may too, they're both in Ohio,
> Columbus and Akron respectively.
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.summitracing.com
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jegs.com
>
> Later,
> Brew
>
> PmctBaker wrote:
> >
> > does anyone know where i can find a new carb. for my 85 351? i put a
> > rebuilt one on last year and its shot already. i was had by a SUPERIOR
> > RADIATOR and CARB place in calif. but im in ohio. when will i learn?
> >
> > gonna need one soon
> > thanks
> > mike p
> > 85 f-150 4x4
>
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Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 16:57:33 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dodges, and other fine ;^) Chrysler products.

I had a 1993 Plymouth Voyager that in the course of a year went through two
transmissions, two cpmp[ressors, and evaproator and a whole bunch of other
things Needless to say I traded it in on a different vanneven with the
warranty
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Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 06:42:21 +1100 (EST)
From: shy anne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Tire siping

Discount Tire siped my tires for me
Shy




- ---Tom Higgins wrote:
>
> Greetings,
>
> I've been away so maybe I'm missing something on the thread but I'll
add my
> $.02 worth.
>
> Siping is indeed (as I remember) cross cutting of the tread of the
tire. I
> grew up in eastern Washington State (not to be confused with west
side).
> Anyway, I had siping on my regular tires for five years while I
lived in
> Seattle for school. For those of you who aren't sure, it DOES rain
as much
> as they say. Anyway, it seemed to help some with traction. I didn't
> notice any extensive wear problems and put a fair number of miles on
the
> rubber. Sometime later I went to buy tires for a different vehicle
> (neither trucks) and they said that they didn't sipe anymore. I'm
curious
> what tire chain is offering the siping? As far as snow, being an
> enlightened state (at least on the east side) studded tires are
(unless it
> has changed) legal. If you can get studded tires for snow,
definately do
> it with about 500 to 1,000 pounds over the rear axle. You'll go
anywhere,
> even with plain old two wheel drive. I used to drive mountain passes
almost
> every weekend so I've had some experience. Just watch out for hard,
packed
> ice. Nothing works for that. If you can't use studded tires where
you
> live, I recommend the following if chains are allowed in specific
severe
> conditions. Get a second set of wheels and some decent but not
expensive
> rubber for the rear. Put on chains. Wire them up nice and tight with
> baling wire. Carry them with you in the winter as extra weight. If
you
> need chains, all you have to do is change the tires. Believe me,
this is
> MUCH easier than lying in snow and slush trying to get some chains
on with
> the tires on the truck. You also have less chance of a poorly
installed
> chain cutting loose and damaging the body.
>
> I hope this helps. There are not to many questions I can answer
with the
> authority of the regular posters.
>
> Tom in Phoenix
>
>
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>

==
- -"God forbid I shall go to any heaven where there are no horses."



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 14:58:53 -0800
From: David Chowenhill Ladd
Subject: FTE 80-96 - AOD help?

hello, new listmember here...

ive got a few quirks with my AOD and im wondering if anyone here knows
whats going on. some background on the vehicle, its an 84 E150 with a
302/AOD and 150k. 130k of those were work truck/city miles (as far as i
can tell), then i bought it and have put about 20k over the last 3
years. Obviously its not driven much anymore, just as a recreational
vehicle (toting my racebike up and down the state) and for commuting in
crappy weather (i usually ride a motorcycle to work).

so... on to the questions.

1. Ford seems to have decided that i dont need to be able to manually
select 2nd gear. The column mounted lever has P,R,N,OD,D,L. I've never
yet encountered a situation where i needed to lock it into low, but i've
many a time wanted to manually kick it from drive to 2nd (hills, in
town, etc.). Is there any way to do this?

2. Park does not hold the vehicle. It is basically just like neutral.
Is this something i should be concerned with? i dropped the pan once
and did not find anything in there (someone once told me that there is a
pin that probably busted off and is now loose, i was looking for it).

3. There is a noticable vibration when cruising in overdrive. It gets
worse the harder the load, and is also rather bad on trailing throttle.
Just cruising flat land with no load it is barely there. any thoughts?

4. when it kicks itself from OD to drive under a heavy load, the rpm's
momentarily race up before setting into drive. It does not do this if i
kick it down manually.

ok, thats all for now... i've got a few other driveline related
questions, but i'll save them for another day.

later,
david.

davidladd geocities.com
Novato, CA
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Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 16:27:05 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Dodges, and other fine ;^) Chrysler products.

I have never found a Chrysler or GM product that I would consider
purchasing.

The only thing close to it was a '75 International Scout II that evidently
used a few Chrysler parts because, and I am not joking, every part I
replaced had a Chrysler symbol on it. Thank GOD International put their own
motor in them. That thing ran until the body fell off. Just before I got rid
of it, last year, I could still keep up with a brand new GM Vortec 350 from
a dead stop. No emissions system, which was not required on a 3/4 ton
vehicle in '75, but other than that it was stock. It had a 345 with dual
exhaust, a four speed manual, posi in the rear, and semi-automatic hubs,
they would go forward without locking them and did not drag. I wish I could
find them for my Ford.

Scott
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Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 16:31:24 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Tire siping

Discount tire here in Colorado wanted to sipe my tires last July.

> I'm curious
> what tire chain is offering the siping?
>
> Tom in Phoenix
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Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 19:04:22 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 302/5L pinging revisited

Pete,
It would be safe to assume that if the TPS was having problems, it is probably
not showing the correct resistance. If this is the case wouldn't it be kinda
silly to set the new one off the reading of the old one? Just checking! Go buy
a Ford service manual, or a good Chilton's manual. They have the correct ohms
reading that you want to use for the stock setting. Or just call the dealer
parts department and they will probably tell ya where to set it.
Wayne Foy
'94 F150 Flareside Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/auto/index.htm
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Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 16:19:43 PST
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Starting Problem

Ok I went ahead and bought a new battery also. Same scenario, it will
crank good for about 2 seconds and peter off into nothing. We tried
jumping it again, and even with good heavy jumper cables I cannot get it
to crank for more than one to two seconds. Everything from the battery
to the starter (including ignt switch) has been replaced. Is there
something I am overlooking? (Heres what has been replaced: Battery,all
cables, solenoid, volt regulator, starter (rebuilt though), ignition
switch.

Thanks,
Casey

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 19:39:49 -0500
From: "Doug McGuinn"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Starting Problem

Did it crank the first time you installed the new battery? If it did, try
this. With a fully charged battery, disconnect the cables before letting
your truck sit overnight. Next morning, connect the cables back. If the
battery is strong and the truck starts, the problem is something is draining
the battery. Next trick, finding the cause. For one of my trucks, the brake
lights were staying on while the truck was parked, and draining the battery
overnight. Got the brake light switch unstuck and the problem was solved.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Casey Vandor
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 7:24 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Starting Problem


> Ok I went ahead and bought a new battery also. Same scenario, it will
>crank good for about 2 seconds and peter off into nothing. We tried
>jumping it again, and even with good heavy jumper cables I cannot get it
>to crank for more than one to two seconds. Everything from the battery
>to the starter (including ignt switch) has been replaced. Is there
>something I am overlooking? (Heres what has been replaced: Battery,all
>cables, solenoid, volt regulator, starter (rebuilt though), ignition
>switch.
>
>Thanks,
>Casey
>
>______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 00:11:06 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - snow&ice recommendations?

Gang,
Time to jump in on this tire talk. Here is some of my knowledge on
some of the different subjects within this thread (for what MY
knowledge is worth)

- -Tire siping has been done on front quad (fourwheelers) tires for
years now and has been very effective for turning traction. This is
mostly in mud and as we know, that doesn't always reflect what will
happen in snow and ice.

- -I don't think they make a truck tire, but the Bridgestone Blizzak is
THE best snow tire I have ever used. They do make them in performance
tire sized (i.e. 60 series, and now have an ice tire too). Put them
on my wife's Bonneville a few years ago after the first snowfall
proved to us that the tires on it were no match for 'Ol Man Winter.
They are a winter-only tire for 2 or 3 seasons then become all-season
which tells you that they are a softer rubber and wear more quickly,
but that all means traction.

- -Someone mentioned the cost for mount/dismounts. When I bought those
Blizzaks for the Bonne, I bought them at Sears and paid a little extra
for lifetime mounting/dismounting (on same rim) of those tires. WAY
more than paid for itself in a few seasons.

- -If your state allows studded snow tires, check the calendar dates
that you can use them. Like Nov. X to April X or whatever. Got
pulled over for that once and the first thing out of the officers
mouth was "Does April 15th mean anything to you?". "Tax deadline?" I
asked. I really didn't know about the date thing and he could tell
since I didn't get a ticket...

- -Letters on the tires will indicate some things too. A, B and C for
wear and traction. Letters for load are indicated too, but that
doesn't have any bearing on how well it handles the weather. I think
A and A are the best for each catagory, but usually you don't find
them together. Doesn't someone on here work for a tire shop? Can you
help clarify what the letters indicate?

- -Also, I don't know if this is the case w/Ford automatics, but I've
driven some late-model autos that had true gear-select. Meaning if
you drop the selector to first gear (one) and them back to second gear
(2), while sitting still, you would start out in second gear, reducing
your chances of spinning your tires.


That's it for my so-called knowledge, I'm sure you're all in awe...
:)
I do hope that it helped someone.......


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