80-96-list-digest Saturday, December 5 1998 Volume 02 : Number 406



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Re: Classaction Suite on E40D
FTE 80-96 - re: smoke ??
Re: FTE 80-96 - re:302 vs. 351
Re: FTE 80-96 - Trans ID
FTE 80-96 - Oil Pan Gasket
FTE 80-96 - Camber issues on F-150
Re: FTE 80-96 - re:302 vs. 351
FTE 80-96 - Blower motor intermittent
FTE 80-96 - RE:blower motor
FTE 80-96 - I-6 Ignition upgrade
FTE 80-96 - Extracting Shift Lever-1980 Bronco
FTE 80-96 - Starting Problems
RE: Subject: FTE 80-96 - Inline-six
Re: FTE 80-96 - Starting Problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Extracting Shift Lever-1980 Bronco
Re: FTE 80-96 - Starting Problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Extracting Shift Lever-1980 Bronco
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: smoke ??
RE: FTE 80-96 - Starting Problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Starting Problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Starting Problems
RE: FTE 80-96 - K&N Filters (was: Starting Problems)
Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks
FTE 80-96 - Doors?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks
Re: FTE 80-96 - re:302 vs. 351
RE: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks
Re: FTE 80-96 - smoke
Re: FTE 80-96 - Doors?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks
Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks
Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks
Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks
FTE 80-96 - Overheat
Re: FTE 80-96 - Camber issues on F-150
Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks
Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks
Re: FTE 80-96 - Overheat
FTE 80-96 - More F250 ( '85 diesel, auto, 4x4 ) Questions
Re: FTE 80-96 - Overheat
Re: FTE 80-96 - Doors?
Re: FTE 80-96 - More F250 ( '85 diesel, auto, 4x4 ) Questions
Re: FTE 80-96 - Overheat

=======================================================================

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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 07:27:52 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Classaction Suite on E40D

I do know that you can go the ALLDATA website alldata.com and look up the
exact numbers for the Technical Service Bulletins on your model of vehicle. It
will also tell you what the title of the bulletin was and what problem it was
addressing. As far as the actual TSB itself you would have to get the ALLDATA
CD for your vehicle or get someone who can access the TSB list to look it up
for you. I hope that this can help you.
Wayne Foy
'94 F150 Flareside Supercab
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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 07:29:16 -0500
From: "Lazor, Mark"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re: smoke ??

I had the trouble of white smoke only when i first started after its been
sitting
overnight. it may have puffed alittle during startup during the day. Check
out
your transmission oil make sure your not losing any. There is a (i forget) a
switch of somekind on my transmission (rear passangerside) that needed
replaceing. AAmco found this. it was no biggie. he explain this switch has
a diaphram in it and it had cracked open leaking oil into the exhaust. which
cause the white smoke..

-----Original Message-----
From: shy anne
To: ford maillist
Date: Friday, December 04, 1998 4:24 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - smoke


>my truck is suddenly blowing white smoke from the exhaust. Why would
>it do this?
>shyanne
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Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 15:17:02 -0500
From: Mark Heidotting
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re:302 vs. 351

L WALTERS wrote:
>
> Is there a firing order difference between any of the 351's and 302?

all pre-modular Ford V8's except those listed below:
1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

302's after about 1985, all 351's and 400's
1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8

You can use a 351W firing order in a 302 or vice-versa with just a
cam swap, since their cams are otherwise interchangable.

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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 06:58:37 -0600
From: "Ferino, Chris"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Trans ID


you for a tranny code? >>


any stickers of any sort.>>

Joe -
If you have your VIN number, you should be able to tell the transmission
type from there.
Take your VIN number into any Ford parts or service department and ask them
to run it through their OASIS system - that should tell them what
transmission you have.

Either that, or you might be able to look it up in a Haynes or Chilton
manual at your local library - sometimes they list VIN options.

Lastly, you can try calling Ford's customer service toll-free line (it's an
800-number, but I don't have it handy here at the office. I know it's on
their webpage somewhere at www.ford.com) - when I bought my '93 a few months
ago, I called them to get a copy of my window sticker to find out all the
options that were installed from the factory. I didn't get a direct copy of
the window sticker or build sheet, but they did send me a nice letter
decoding my VIN and listing all the options as they were listed on the
window sticker. A nice touch - and they did it at no charge.

If you want, send me your VIN off-list and I'll do a little detective work
for you.

- --Chris
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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 07:08:49 -0600
From: "Chuck"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Oil Pan Gasket

My '92 F150 302 oil pan gasket is giving way to the elements and
is leaking pretty good. What it the easiest way to change this
gasket?

Chuck
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ionet.net/~dtra

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Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 09:08:36 -0500
From: "Golly, Scott M"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Camber issues on F-150

Dear Subscribers:

I have been reading all of the posts saying that you can't fix camber or it
is just a ford problem..... Well, I have a Cherry 1990 F-150 with a 4"
suspension lift, 33X12.5R15 BFG's, and aftermarket pretty much everything.
There isn't too much I haven't worked on with my F-150. I have researched
every piece that went on that rig. You CAN fix camber! I fixed it on mine
and am within tenths of a degree on computer analysis of factory spec. My
truck tracks straight, handles great, and has no tire wear. Even with
narrow tires, it is fixable. The key is going to a good custom shop that
knows big trucks. I dealt with The Custom Shop in Aberdeen, MD. I pulled
the ball joints and replaced them and put anti seize on the top ball joint
to camber bearing interface. The Custom Shop then installed fully
adjustable camber bearings (they ain't cheap, $70 per side). These
adjustable bearings are obviously well designed and you can see them and
understand why they work.

I also found a company that sells an affordable, high quality, well designed
radius arm and bracket that allows Ford trucks with big tires to have
complete knock to knock turning without rubbing tires on radius arms.

Another thing! I have also been following the lists saying that the
351's aren't as fast or powerful as the 350 Chevro piece of ! #^. My 351
isn't afraid of anything and will run with the big dogs. I have dragged
and won against some well built Che$%& and I don't have small tires. It is
just built well. There are faster and it ain't the best but it ain't too
shabby.

Scott
Researcher/Fire Protection Engineer
gollys battelle.org
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Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 08:19:30 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re:302 vs. 351

CphgnCwby1 aol.com wrote:

> OK, now another question....i am gonna be 16 in about 3 months, i am wanting
> to get a truck that i can drive, 4-wheel, etc. Do you think that:
>
> 1) i should raise it?

Raise it, Raise it, Raise it to the sky. Man that would be some offly
big tires. :-)
Bart, I am 31y.o. and I believe in raising and putting the biggest tires
you can. I will probably always think that too. But there is a little
thing that can get in the way. That is money. Lifts are pretty expensive
but can be relatively cheap if you do the work yourself. To answer your
question yes I would raise it, but that is my way of thinking. Also, like
Rade pointed out, when you get a lift then larger tires go with that,
which means more expense. Otherwise a lift just doesn't look right
with small go-cart wheels on it(IMHO). I have a bronco and I have
33xs12.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains on 15x10 rims. I have a poor mans
lift in the back(air shocks) and am going to put on extended springs
up front. Anyways, if you have the extry money I say go balls to the
wall and get that thing up in the air. :-) Oh yeah for a little neighborhood
sound you might want cherrybombs on the exhaust.
VVVVVrrrrrrrrrooooooommmmm. :-)


> 2) i should get a long bed, or short bed ( or does it really matter)?

Depends on what you plan on doing with the truck. You gonna mainly use it
for rid'n around in and hauling a few things here and there, or are
you gonna use it quite frequently for hauling stuff. I'll tell ya. One thing
that really gets in my crawl is to see a truck that won't even hold a
piece of 4'x8' sheet of plywood flat. Where did all the functional
trucks go ? Hell, even my bronco will hold a piece of plywod flat on
the floor. Anyways, I'll get off the soapbox. You need to decide
how you think you'll use the truck then get what suites you.

> 3) what modifacations should i do that will make it better for 4-wheeling
>

See #1

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 09:41:49 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Blower motor intermittent

Bowman writes: >> Any idea's?

Jiggle the ignition switch next time it doesn't come alive when you turn it
on. You may have a flulty switch for the accessories. Could possibly have
an intermittent connection someplace else, also.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 07:12:32 -0900
From: "L WALTERS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:blower motor

My 81 XLT stepside does same thing. If I pull the wheel tilt latch and let
the steering wheel slam (not hard) in the up position the motor will kick on
every time. Maybe it is time to investigate?

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Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 11:16:04 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - I-6 Ignition upgrade

Gang,
I was wondering from those of you that have an I-6,
how difficult it was to update your ignition system.
What brand did you upgrade too, what you all you
had to swap out out and what were all the costs.
As well, are you happy you did it.
- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 11:18:52 -0600
From: Geoffrey Schrag
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Extracting Shift Lever-1980 Bronco

- -Still limping along with my repairs. I can't figure out how to get the
lever out of the top of the transmission. I think its a T-18. Looking
down I can see a cylindrical cap with a rectangular opening that the lever
pokes through, below this cap is another round thing-Spring seat? with an
oval notch right next to the lever. Some tranny techs told me I should
press down on this piece and turn it to pull the lever out? I also have
two screws or pins on either side of the top of the tranny, but it doesn't
look like they're supposed to come out? Any help you guys could give would
be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again,

Geof Schrag
1980 Bronco
351M, 4sp
Geof Schrag
1980 Ford Bronco
351M, 4sp
gschrag bitstream.net
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 10:00:17 PST
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Starting Problems

Ok, been a while since I have wrote to you all... My '83 F-250 is dead
again. Heres whats been rep[laced (during the last breakdown) solenoid,
voltage regulator, starter, ignition switch, and all battery and starter
cables. My battery is about 12 months old (die hard 900 amp). Now the
truck will not start again. The soleniod will repetiviely click with
the key held in start. I am getting good voltage and good connections
all around, I am at the end of the rope with this truck. Any
suggestions?



Thanks

Casey

______________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 13:09:20 -0500
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: RE: Subject: FTE 80-96 - Inline-six

>Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 01:12:01 EST
>From: SpyderLv81 aol.com
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Inline-six

>Hey everyone I have a question. What can I do to my I-6 in my 84 f-150 for
>more power? It's the 300, and I plan on putting on the 4 barrel manifold
and
>holley 390 carb, headers, and whatever else that will give it power without
>making machine the block. What does everyone suggest? Should I get a cam
or
>not? Any input will be appreciated.

I did exactly the same thing you are planning on - 4 barrel manifold,
holley 390 carb & headers to my I-6 86 f-150. I was very pleased with
the results. Fairly simple installation to do. I did my in a weekend.
If you want more info email me and I can give you some info on what
to expect and to watch out for during the installation process form
when I did mine.
Mike
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Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 12:29:36 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Starting Problems

Casey Vandor wrote:

> Ok, been a while since I have wrote to you all... My '83 F-250 is dead
> again. Heres whats been rep[laced (during the last breakdown) solenoid,
> voltage regulator, starter, ignition switch, and all battery and starter
> cables. My battery is about 12 months old (die hard 900 amp). Now the
> truck will not start again. The soleniod will repetiviely click with
> the key held in start. I am getting good voltage and good connections
> all around, I am at the end of the rope with this truck. Any
> suggestions?

Will it start right up if it is jumped from another vehicle ?

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 13:43:49 -0500
From: John Kanyan
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Extracting Shift Lever-1980 Bronco

Geof yep thier right you have to push down and turn that spring loaded cap
to get the shift lever out . those pins on each side of the shift tower
arent supposed to come out .good luck. John

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>
>
John Kanyan

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Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 13:48:53 -0500
From: John Kanyan
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Starting Problems

At 10:00 AM 12/4/98 PST, you wrote:
>Ok, been a while since I have wrote to you all... My '83 F-250 is dead
>again. Heres whats been rep[laced (during the last breakdown) solenoid,
>voltage regulator, starter, ignition switch, and all battery and starter
>cables. My battery is about 12 months old (die hard 900 amp). Now the
>truck will not start again. The soleniod will repetiviely click with
>the key held in start. I am getting good voltage and good connections
>all around, I am at the end of the rope with this truck. Any
>suggestions?
>
>
>
>Thanks
>
>Casey
>Casey check and see if you can turn your engine over by hand I've seen many
starters stick in and you get the same symtoms as you described. just a
thought...John
>______________________________________________________
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
John Kanyan

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Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 11:29:14 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Extracting Shift Lever-1980 Bronco

Those pins hold the shift ball cover in place. It's literally a lock ring and
you have to push down(on the shifter) and twist. It won't twist off by itself.
The ring is really a dome that the shifter fits thru. It's notched to match
those pins you see on either side.
If you can not get it to rotate, get a replacement ring first, then chisle the
old one off.
Oh, yeah....been there,done that.

Bob


Geoffrey Schrag wrote:

> -Still limping along with my repairs. I can't figure out how to get the
> lever out of the top of the transmission. I think its a T-18. Looking
> down I can see a cylindrical cap with a rectangular opening that the lever
> pokes through, below this cap is another round thing-Spring seat? with an
> oval notch right next to the lever. Some tranny techs told me I should
> press down on this piece and turn it to pull the lever out? I also have
> two screws or pins on either side of the top of the tranny, but it doesn't
> look like they're supposed to come out? Any help you guys could give would
> be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Geof Schrag
> 1980 Bronco
> 351M, 4sp
> Geof Schrag
> 1980 Ford Bronco
> 351M, 4sp
> gschrag bitstream.net
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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 11:31:45 -0800 (PST)
From: shy anne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: smoke ??

thanks..i'll check it out




- ---"Lazor, Mark" wrote:
>
> I had the trouble of white smoke only when i first started after its
been
> sitting
> overnight. it may have puffed alittle during startup during the day.
Check
> out
> your transmission oil make sure your not losing any. There is a (i
forget) a
> switch of somekind on my transmission (rear passangerside) that needed
> replaceing. AAmco found this. it was no biggie. he explain this
switch has
> a diaphram in it and it had cracked open leaking oil into the
exhaust. which
> cause the white smoke..
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shy anne
> To: ford maillist
> Date: Friday, December 04, 1998 4:24 AM
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - smoke
>
>
> >my truck is suddenly blowing white smoke from the exhaust. Why would
> >it do this?
> >shyanne
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>

==
- -"God forbid I shall go to any heaven where there are no horses."



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 12:27:10 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Starting Problems

Casey,

First, Starter:
I wonder how you managed to check the voltage at the starter while you were
starting it? If you didn't I suggest you get someone to help you and make
sure it is seeing voltage, if not, I suggest you work your way back through
the system.

Second, Alternator:
The only other possible thing I can think of is the alternator is not
charging and there is not enough current in the battery to start it. (But
you claimed the voltages are good everywhere, if the alternator was not
charging the voltage would be below 12 volts at rest). If you monitor the
voltage when you try to start it and the voltage drops below 9 volts then
the battery is week for some reason. Either it is being drained by a
parasitic current draw somewhere or it never got charged to start with. The
battery could be bad in this case or there is a major short in your
electrical system. Since you can't start it, checking the alternator would
be more difficult. If it starts from being jumped and since the alternator
is the only thing you haven't replaced, I would have it checked out as well
as checking for shorts to ground in the system.

Third, Bendix gear:
If you are getting the correct voltage at the starter and the alternator and
starter are good you may have a bendix gear or a fly wheel sticking somehow.
Something is keeping the fly wheel from turning, no voltage to the starter
or it is stuck. If the voltage is good and assuming you are correct and the
things you listed are good, the flywheel must be stuck or the bendix gear is
jamming it. My '83 Mustang GT 5.0 L would jam like that. The starter was not
engaging correctly, jamming, and the solenoid would repetitively click.
After tearing it apart I found several teeth missing from the flywheel
caused by rocks getting into the flywheel shroud. IMO this was a freak thing
and I don't think it is what is happening to you.

If it is jamming for some reason, put the truck in gear and rock it back and
forth to free up the bendix gear and try to start it. You can put a large
1/2 inch socket with a big breaker bar on the main drive shaft and try to
turn the flywheel that way but putting it in gear and pushing the car back
and forth by hand worked for my Mustang's 5.0 L.

Double check your voltages, jump it from another vehicle, and try to
eliminate the possibilities.

Good Luck!
Scott

> Ok, been a while since I have wrote to you all... My '83 F-250 is dead
> again. Heres whats been rep[laced (during the last breakdown) solenoid,
> voltage regulator, starter, ignition switch, and all battery and starter
> cables. My battery is about 12 months old (die hard 900 amp). Now the
> truck will not start again. The soleniod will repetiviely click with
> the key held in start. I am getting good voltage and good connections
> all around, I am at the end of the rope with this truck. Any
> suggestions?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Casey
>
> ______________________________________________________
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 11:32:10 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Starting Problems

Just more of the same old....
Try it with the lights on, see if they go out when you turn it over.
Make sure the battery connections are clean and tight.
Also, I. myself have never had much long term success with any batteries
rated under 1100 amps with my rig.

Bob


Casey Vandor wrote:

> Ok, been a while since I have wrote to you all... My '83 F-250 is dead
> again. Heres whats been rep[laced (during the last breakdown) solenoid,
> voltage regulator, starter, ignition switch, and all battery and starter
> cables. My battery is about 12 months old (die hard 900 amp). Now the
> truck will not start again. The soleniod will repetiviely click with
> the key held in start. I am getting good voltage and good connections
> all around, I am at the end of the rope with this truck. Any
> suggestions?
>
> Thanks
>
> Casey
>
> ______________________________________________________
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 14:53:22 -0500
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Starting Problems

Casey,

I hate to state the obvious, but that tends to be what I'm best at. You
say that the voltage is fine, but what about the current? I had a similar
problem on my '84 Bronco and it turned out to be a bad contact on the
battery terminal. I figured that one out when I attempted to jump it from
another vehicle and got the same results as just using my own battery.

And for everybody else,

Completely unrelated, I picked up one of those K&N Filterchargers last
night (just the filter...not to airbox replacement) and it was the best
thing I could have done. I didn't notice much of a performance increase off
the line, but driving home on the Garden State Parkway I noticed that my
cruise control problems disappeared. Previously I'd have the cruise set at
65mph, and it would drop to about 60mph on the slight hills we have around
here before the E4OD would downshift and get me back up to where it I should
be. I had this problem before I put on the 31" BFG's, and they didn't help
things. Anyway, driving home last night it kept the speed I set it to and
never had to downshift. Personally, I'm shocked at the performance
increase, and I always kept my air filters clean.
I guess it's not all hype. Thanks for the good advice all around!

- -Mike

- -----------------
> Ok, been a while since I have wrote to you all... My '83 F-250 is dead
> again. Heres whats been rep[laced (during the last breakdown) solenoid,
> voltage regulator, starter, ignition switch, and all battery and starter
> cables. My battery is about 12 months old (die hard 900 amp). Now the
> truck will not start again. The soleniod will repetiviely click with
> the key held in start. I am getting good voltage and good connections
> all around, I am at the end of the rope with this truck. Any
> suggestions?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Casey
>
> ______________________________________________________
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 13:25:29 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - K&N Filters (was: Starting Problems)

Mike,

I noticed that too with the K&N FIPK, (air box replacement), except it is
much better. Even when I step on the gas it does not down shift, it finds
the power somewhere and opens up, the air rushes in and the motor roars. The
best thing I like about it is the way it stops the auto trans from shifting
in and out to find the power to pull up a hill, it just keeps sucking in air
and pulls away from the other cars without down shifting. It does not down
shift until you really need power and it does it a lot smoother. The
acceleration is much smoother also, you can feel it in the pedal.

I am glad to hear that about the drop in filters though, I was wanting to
try one on my wife's car but was worried I would be disappointed with the
results. I am going to pick one up when I get the chance. I would put a K&N
FIPK in it if they made one for it. It has a turbo in it and I can't wait to
see what it will do!

Scott

> Completely unrelated, I picked up one of those K&N Filterchargers last
> night (just the filter...not to airbox replacement) and it was the best
> thing I could have done. I didn't notice much of a performance increase
> off
> the line, but driving home on the Garden State Parkway I noticed that my
> cruise control problems disappeared. Previously I'd have the cruise set
> at
> 65mph, and it would drop to about 60mph on the slight hills we have around
> here before the E4OD would downshift and get me back up to where it I
> should
> be. I had this problem before I put on the 31" BFG's, and they didn't
> help
> things. Anyway, driving home last night it kept the speed I set it to and
> never had to downshift. Personally, I'm shocked at the performance
> increase, and I always kept my air filters clean.
> I guess it's not all hype. Thanks for the good advice all around!
>
> -Mike
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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 16:17:33 EST
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks

In a message dated 12/3/98 6:25:47 PM Eastern Standard Time, GLMPILOT aol.com
writes:


yea
the suspension is a lot better >>
I feel that my suspension is fine off road, and I just want a little more tire
under my truck. The suspension mods aren't necessary because all I really
need is a little more space under the pumpkins. So Nobody is running a body
lift on an F truck?

Joe
Lost in Jersey
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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 15:44:06 -0600
From: Ron Madurski
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Doors?

Will the doors from an 83 (Power windows and locks) fit on an 85 cab
(without the power stuff)? Are the wires for the power already there?

Thanks.
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Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 18:08:59 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks

Joe (doesn't everyone in NJ claim they're lost? hehe)
Anyway 4x4 Power just had an article with some good tips on body lifts
(Dec 98? - if you can't find it, notify me off list and I'll look up
some stuff for ya). The article even mentions that not alot of ppl
use them. They are deceivingly inexpensive. The steering shaft will
need to be adjusted and the fan shroud cut on a 1-2" lift. A 3" lift
is far more costly/time consuming. You usually have to actually move
the radiator up, get a kit to extend the steering, the shift linkage
can't just be adjusted, you must make brackets or maybe you could buy
some. Sometimes, the brake lines and wiring needs to be lenthened
too. I'd go no more than 2" just for those reasons alone, not to
mention the added stress on the 3" longer body and bed bolts.

Have fun!
Brew

ACMERCG aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 12/3/98 6:25:47 PM Eastern Standard Time, GLMPILOT aol.com
> writes:
>
>
> yea
> the suspension is a lot better >>
> I feel that my suspension is fine off road, and I just want a little more tire
> under my truck. The suspension mods aren't necessary because all I really
> need is a little more space under the pumpkins. So Nobody is running a body
> lift on an F truck?
>
> Joe
> Lost in Jersey
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 18:17:53 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re:302 vs. 351

CphgnCwby1 aol.com wrote:
>
> OK, now another question....i am gonna be 16 in about 3 months, i am wanting
> to get a truck that i can drive, 4-wheel, etc. Do you think that:
>
> 1) i should raise it?

- --If you have the money and time, yes.



> 2) i should get a long bed, or short bed ( or does it really matter)?


- --We have a little saying around here (some of you 6' guys may not
care for it): "You ain't poop if you ain't got an 8' bed" Short box
trucks do look a little 'sportier', but nothing can replace that extra
2 feet.


> 3) what modifacations should i do that will make it better for 4-wheeling

- --This list could get VERY long. A lift that allows good articulation
of the suspension and good sized, grippy tires are a good start. Posi
or a Lockered rear end is a good investment.

Lastly, don't try to do all this at one time. Unless of course you
have mega-bucks and the time to go w/it, which most of us on here have
neither of. Build it as your money and time allow and your
circumstances require. For instance you probably won't be tackling
Moab as soon as you get your truck so the Detroit Locker, ARB,
Low-gear crawler tranny, hi-torque starter, roll-cage and things like
that can wait :)

Have fun building
Brew
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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 15:20:53 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks

Joe,

I'm not going to a body lift because a body lift will not directly help
pumpkin/trany clearance. All the body lift allows you to do is put bigger
tires on, and what does that raise the pumpkin, 1/2 inch, maybe 1 with the
addition of bigger tires? If you need chassis clearance, raise the chassis
without raising the truck too high. You can raise the pumpkin more with a 2"
suspension lift and not have to buy big tires than what a 3" body lift will
do and having to buy bigger tires. I gain 2 inches and did not have to
change the tires and still have room for the 33 inch dia tires for the extra
inch. It just makes more since to get the suspension higher and not the body
if you don't have to. I made my decision mostly because it is the normal way
to do it, they come from the factory that way, I don't have to put bigger
tires on and my speedo is right on, IMHO the body lifts are abnormal to me.
I could go on and on as to why I think a suspension lift is better but I
prefer to keep this short. It's good to see you are thinking about it and
not jumping into it without looking at all the options and pros and cons.
Please don't take my word for it, stop by a 4x4 shop and ask them what they
think.

BTW, it's not the pumpkin that is the big problem, it's the trany and that
shield that hangs down like a pregnant yak directly between the front and
back wheels where you high center that hangs up, scoops up dirt and rocks
when you back up. The *darn* thing even hits the ground when I pull into a
drive way with a dip in it. No way a body lift will cure that.

Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From: ACMERCG aol.com [SMTP:ACMERCG aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, December 04, 1998 2:18 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks
>
> In a message dated 12/3/98 6:25:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> GLMPILOT aol.com
> writes:
>
>
> But
> yea
> the suspension is a lot better >>
> I feel that my suspension is fine off road, and I just want a little more
> tire
> under my truck. The suspension mods aren't necessary because all I really
> need is a little more space under the pumpkins. So Nobody is running a
> body
> lift on an F truck?
>
> Joe
> Lost in Jersey
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 17:45:45 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - smoke

first id check my oil to see if you got a milky oil that indicates a motor
roblem like head gasket, or a cracked motor.. if that dont help then you need
to see if you got water in your gas
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 17:53:01 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Doors?

the doors will fit from i think 1980 -1995 although there might be slight
differences in trim...Where i work we have all different year F series trucks
and when we mothball them we take body parts from different years and patch em
up. doors and beds should interchange the problem is with fenders and grilles
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 18:01:49 EST
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks

In a message dated 12/4/98 5:35:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, sgiddens ball.com
writes:



I'm not going to a body lift because a body lift will not directly help
pumpkin/trany clearance. All the body lift allows you to do is put bigger
tires on, and what does that raise the pumpkin, 1/2 inch, maybe 1 with the
addition of bigger tires? If you need chassis clearance, raise the chassis
without raising the truck too high. You can raise the pumpkin more with a 2"
suspension lift and not have to buy big tires than what a 3" body lift will
do and having to buy bigger tires. I gain 2 inches and did not have to
change the tires and still have room for the 33 inch dia tires for the extra
inch. It just makes more since to get the suspension higher and not the body
if you don't have to. I made my decision mostly because it is the normal way
to do it, they come from the factory that way, I don't have to put bigger
tires on and my speedo is right on, IMHO the body lifts are abnormal to me.
I could go on and on as to why I think a suspension lift is better but I
prefer to keep this short. It's good to see you are thinking about it and
not jumping into it without looking at all the options and pros and cons.
Please don't take my word for it, stop by a 4x4 shop and ask them what they
think.

BTW, it's not the pumpkin that is the big problem, it's the trany and that
shield that hangs down like a pregnant yak directly between the front and
back wheels where you high center that hangs up, scoops up dirt and rocks
when you back up. The *darn* thing even hits the ground when I pull into a
drive way with a dip in it. No way a body lift will cure that.

Scott >>
I agree that the Transfer case hangs too low and only a suspension lift will
cure that. But as far as pumpkin clearence is concerned, only a bigger tire
will help that. You could have 6 feet of suspension lift and your pumpkins
will still have the same clearence with 33" tires. That is my point. With
the amount of and style of wheeling I do, I really only need bigger tires. I
have only gotten hung up on my transfercase twice, and both times it was
because I was acting like an *sshole and not thinking things through. Like
anything else, you have to choose your obstacles carefully. BTW, with the
planned 33's, I wouldn't have got hung up on either of those obstacles...

Joe
Lost in Jersey
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 18:19:16 -0500
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks

We don't get many of those in Jersey. :)

- -Mike

- -----Original Message-----
From: Giddens, Scott
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, December 04, 1998 5:40 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks


*snip*
BTW, it's not the pumpkin that is the big problem, it's the trany and that
shield that hangs down like a pregnant yak ...*snip*


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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 19:24:39 EST
From: GLMPILOT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks

That's what I meant to say
Dwayne Jackson
so.cal.dez.prerunforfun.
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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 19:34:09 EST
From: GLMPILOT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks

But if you had 6 feet of suspension travel you could jump over those things
that might smack into the trans.i know smart "expletive that we cant write"
remark couldn't help it
DJ
socaldez.
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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 20:36:49 -0500 (EST)
From: DBblueboy webtv.net (Jerome Kelly)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Overheat

Recently purchased a l987 F-l50SLT.
It is a one owner with 74,000 miles.
It has a 5.0 engine with EFI. The Oil
and Temp. gages did not work. I put
in a pair of expensive after market ones.
The temp. hangs around l95 degrees. In
park it creeps upto 2l0. It gets on my
nerves. I dont know what the factory
specs are supposed to be. The engine
seems to hot. The Cat is not red. The
water pump looks like it has been changed recently. I installed a new
stat and cap. Nothing leaks. Does
anyone have a clue?




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Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 20:45:20 -0500
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Camber issues on F-150

Golly, Scott M wrote:
>
> Dear Subscribers:
>
> I have been reading all of the posts saying that you can't fix camber or it
> is just a ford problem..... Well, I have a Cherry 1990 F-150 with a 4"
> suspension lift, 33X12.5R15 BFG's, and aftermarket pretty much everything.
> There isn't too much I haven't worked on with my F-150. I have researched
> every piece that went on that rig. You CAN fix camber! I fixed it on mine
> and am within tenths of a degree on computer analysis of factory spec. My
> truck tracks straight, handles great, and has no tire wear. Even with
> narrow tires, it is fixable. The key is going to a good custom shop that
> knows big trucks. I dealt with The Custom Shop in Aberdeen, MD. I pulled
> the ball joints and replaced them and put anti seize on the top ball joint
> to camber bearing interface. The Custom Shop then installed fully
> adjustable camber bearings (they ain't cheap, $70 per side). These
> adjustable bearings are obviously well designed and you can see them and
> understand why they work.
>
> I also found a company that sells an affordable, high quality, well designed
> radius arm and bracket that allows Ford trucks with big tires to have
> complete knock to knock turning without rubbing tires on radius arms.
>
> Another thing! I have also been following the lists saying that the
> 351's aren't as fast or powerful as the 350 Chevro piece of ! #^. My 351
> isn't afraid of anything and will run with the big dogs. I have dragged
> and won against some well built Che$%& and I don't have small tires. It is
> just built well. There are faster and it ain't the best but it ain't too
> shabby.
>
> Scott
> Researcher/Fire Protection Engineer
> gollys battelle.org
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Hey Scott you live near Aberdeen. I live near Riverside. I went to
school with guy(Dave) that works at the Custom Shop!(He owns the big
black Dodge with the 440)
Chris
94 lightning #381
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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 21:07:56 EST
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks

In a message dated 12/4/98 6:56:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, mjp globespan.net
writes:



-Mike
>>
I actually haven't seen one myself....

Joe
Lost in Jersey
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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 21:09:29 EST
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Body lifts on F-Series trucks

In a message dated 12/4/98 7:50:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, GLMPILOT aol.com
writes:


that might smack into the trans.i know smart "expletive that we cant write"
remark couldn't help it
DJ
socaldez. >>
This is true... this is true.....

Joe
Lost in Jersey
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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 21:11:19 EST
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Overheat

In a message dated 12/4/98 8:44:53 PM Eastern Standard Time,
DBblueboy webtv.net writes:


seems to hot. The Cat is not red. The
water pump looks like it has been changed recently. I installed a new
stat and cap. Nothing leaks. Does
anyone have a clue? >>
How does your radiator look?

Joe
Lost in Jersey
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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 19:37:54 -0800
From: "Craig Rubin"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - More F250 ( '85 diesel, auto, 4x4 ) Questions

Hi all,

Fuel mileage
What could cause the mileage to drop 20 to 25% over the last couple of
tanks? The fuel filter and air filter were changed approx. 2k miles ago.
Would dirty fuel injectors cause this ? How often do they need to be
serviced or replaced? The truck has 119k miles on it and I am not sure is
the injectors have ever been serviced. Does fuel additive cause this?
There has been no change is driving habits, I think.

Water leaking in cab
I noticed water that came into cab after I washed some crud off the
windshield and fresh air intake vents. On the right side of the cab, drips
from bottom of heater core box. On the left side, dripping onto area where
floor meets kickboard, just forward of e. brake pedal. Is something plugged
up? and or was water pressure from hose to high? or ??? How to remedy?

Pine needles
In fresh air compartment in front of windshield. How to remove?

Thanks in advance,

Craig Rubin
crubin foxinternet.net


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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 22:44:58 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Overheat

you could boil it out and have it flushed but i think its normal thats like
my F250, and its done it for years
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Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 23:59:00 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Doors?

Just a note here:
The doors are the same for all those years, but the beds have a slight
difference. It's the same reason the fenders don't work. They should
physically bolt onto the truck, but the flares around the wheel wells
are different. The 80-86's have about a 3" 'depression' the matches
the shape of the wheel well. The 87-96's don't have that depression
and in fact flare-out at the tops of the wells. But as said, the
doors are not affected by this change and should work just fine. As
for the wiring, I don't think it exists going into the doors (doesn't
on my manual window/lock '87), but it may exist under the dash, check
the fuse box and see if you have the slots for the fuses for the power....


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