80-96-list-digest Tuesday, November 10 1998 Volume 02 : Number 385



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Woe is me (non-starting problem)
FTE 80-96 - Re: Woe is me (non-starting problem)
Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 swap with inline 6
FTE 80-96 - Hesitation
FTE 80-96 - Battery Savers
FTE 80-96 - Headers
Re: FTE 80-96 - Woe is me (non-starting problem)
FTE 80-96 - Re: Woe is me (non-starting problem)
FTE 80-96 - re:woe is me
FTE 80-96 - Overheating
re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 rough idle
FTE 80-96 - rear antilock & break lights on 89 ranger
RE: FTE 80-96 - Overheating
FTE 80-96 - Tach installed
FTE 80-96 - Wierd problem #2 (more data)
FTE 80-96 - kroger ucla.edu
Re: FTE 80-96 - Overheating
Re: FTE 80-96 - low speed vibration
Re: FTE 80-96 - Diesels and stop/go traffic...
Re: FTE 80-96 - rear antilock & break lights on 89 ranger
Re: FTE 80-96 - Overheating
Re: FTE 80-96 - Overheating
Re: FTE 80-96 - rear antilock & break lights on 89 ranger
FTE 80-96 - Borg Warner T-19 Transmissions

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 07:02:32 EST
From: S1120 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Woe is me (non-starting problem)

Hi. This used to be a big problem on Chryslers. It was the ballast resistor.
Seem that when you are starting the motor, power goes to the ignition through
the starting system. When you turn the key off of start, and on to run, power
goes through the ignition system. You problem should be on the ignition side
not the starting side. First place to look? Ignition switch, these have been a
problem on fords, Starter solenoid, the black round piece you were talking
about, these have also been a problem. Also look for a bad wire, or bad
resistor. Good luck I hope I have been some help

Paul Bradway
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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 08:17:08 -0500
From: John Wickerham
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Woe is me (non-starting problem)

I would check your system voltage. If this is an EFI system, you need
a certain battery voltage to the computer, or it will function eratically,
or not at all and just die.

If you don't see over 12 volts at least (prefferably 13.8 or so), you may
not have sufficient voltage to make things work.

If this is not an EFI system, then never mind.

John

>Any pointers here would be greatly appreciated. My truck suddenly had a low
>battery one morning, when I jumped it, all was fine for a couple minutes
>then it died. Several times I tried starting it, it wanted to turn over,
>would sort of go "vroom!" but not continue to run. I suspected a recently
>installed kill switch to the coil; however, when I pressed the switch and
>turned the key, it went err-err-err-err-err just as before the
>problems....starter turns but no firing at all. Click the kill switch back
>again, and it's vroom....nothing. After a few times strong smell of gas

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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 10:13:22 -0500
From: Chris Porter
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 swap with inline 6

at ford-trucks.com there is a 10-20 page article on making the i6 -> v8
conversion.. the parts that are needed etc.. for the f100 - f250. my guess
is that you could probably just take the 8 out and put the 6 in. everything
is designed to handle more power now, so (in my sort of educated opinion)
the parts would also be able to handle less power. if you are driving
manual, i think you'd have to put a different clutch & some other drive
train parts, but other than that i wouldnt think there would be too much more.

i've been doing alot of reading/talking about making the inline 4 to v8
(302 or 351) conversion in my 89 ranger... supposedly the mounts are the
same, it's just everything else that needs to be replaced.. radiator, rear
axle, computer, injection system, tranny, drive shaft, clutch, exhaust,
brakes etc.. you name it it's gotta be replaced basically.

- -chris

p.s. has anybody made that conversion here, or is there anyone who wants
to? maybe a we could get a group buy on parts etc (like the engine...hehehe )


At 02:25 PM 11/8/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>>Anybody know what I'd have to go through to swap
>>>out a 302 V8 for an Inline 300 6 cylinder in my
>>>F150. I realize that this is a downgrade in power/
>>>performance, but the 302 has some serious problems
>>>and I can get the Inline 6 cheap.
>>
>>You know I want to do the same thing but just the opposite. I have an
inline 6
>>with 182,000 miles on it and I want to drop in a 302 from the 1980's I
have a
>>1994 now. If you get any info on this please e-mail me on it! ;-)
>
>Well, several have been convincing me to just fix the 302, and enjoy
>the halfway decent power. I was after something inexpensive and reliable,
>which the 300 is.
>
>John
>
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- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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"One cannot be betrayed if one has no people"
-Kobayashi
(The Usual Suspects)
(1996 polygram entertainment)

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 11:26:51 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hesitation

Glen Koepnick writes: >> Recently, with the cooler weather, when I first
start going or just shift gears, if I give a little too much gas the engine
bogs down and sputters a little. If I let up on the pedal, and let the
carburator catch up to the rest of the truck, and then press slowly it
seems to keep up fine with the fuel intake.

In the hot weather, it never does this.
The truck is a 1990 F250 4X4 w/ a 460 with EFI.

Sounds like the 'throttle position sensor' to me.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 10:34:58 -0600
From: "Stephen W. Hansen"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Battery Savers

Anyone had any experience with those battery savers, that sense a draw on
your battery (such as the lights being left on) and shut off the battery
while there is enough juice left to start it? My dad's truck has so many fun
extra's drawing off the battery. Flashlight charger, CB, CB amp, police
scanner, Radar detector, (and he doesn't speed) that occasionally he leaves
something on and dead battery. He is thinking about a second battery, but
there is no place to put them anymore.
Steve

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 11:35:18 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Headers

Jeff Vlahos writes: >>I own a 1995 Ford F150, 4wd, w/ 351 engine. I live
in Northern Michigan, where the winters are long and cold. I was thinking
of putting headers on my truck with dual exhaust. Someone told me that the
headers would reduce the engine temperature too much and that the cold
weather would be hard on my engine. Is there any validity to this
statement, I don't quite see the logic. I am hoping anyone can help me
with this problem.

I don't understand this either. Engine temp is directly related to the
T'stat. provided the cooling system is in good working order. Maybe the
Choke would be a problem getting the proper amount of heat with headers,
but the operating temperature of the engine is determined by the t'stat.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.



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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 11:38:10 -0600
From: GTH
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Woe is me (non-starting problem)

And it has happened in my '88 F150/300/5sp...I loaned a fairly new
battery to someone and they said it wouldn't hold a charge, so I put it
in the truck to 'charge' it (I drive Jackson/New Orleans at least once a
week). Battery had a at least one dead cell/short...but it wouldn't run
more than 10 sec without the boost.

George

Randy wrote:
>
> Jim,
> This could be a long shot, but I had it happen once on my V65 Magna
> and went bonkers trying to figure it out. I remember it doing the
> same thing, start, rev, die, start, rev, die. To make this story as
> short as humanly possible, it wound up being the battery. The plates
> inside were shorting out. Even though I push-started the thing it
> would not keep running. Had I known it at the time, I would have
> disconnected the battery and push started it to get it home, but I had
> to call my buddy and load it in his truck. Only time that bike ever
> gave me a problem.
>
> Later,
> Brew
>
> kroger ucla.edu wrote:
> >
> > Any pointers here would be greatly appreciated. My truck suddenly had a low
> > battery one morning, when I jumped it, all was fine for a couple minutes
> > then it died. Several times I tried starting it, it wanted to turn over,
> > would sort of go "vroom!" but not continue to run
>
> ----snip----
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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 11:59:29 -0600
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Woe is me (non-starting problem)

One possibility is this thing called a ballast resistor (I think?) could be
open. It is in the coil circuit with the key in the run position and it is
bypassed while cranking. If it's open you get power to the coil while
cranking and the engine would have spark but not when you release the key to
run. Also, the "run" position of the ignition switch may be bad. Also,
review the way that "kill switch" is installed. Maybe disconnect it during
your troubleshooting to simplify the problem.
David Anderson

>Any pointers here would be greatly appreciated. My truck suddenly had a low
battery one morning, when I jumped it, all was fine for a couple minutes
then it died. Several times I tried starting it, it wanted to turn over,
would sort of go "vroom!" but not continue to run. I suspected a recently
installed kill switch to the coil; however, when I pressed the switch and
turned the key, it went err-err-err-err-err just as before......
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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 09:28:06 -0900
From: "L WALTERS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re:woe is me

Jim, the black round thing (starter relay) has a small wire on it that goes
directly to the coil, when the battery is under load ( starting ) this
supplies the coil with as much voltage as possible. when the start circut is
not active, the coil gets it's juice from the ignition circut ( about nine
volts). having that been said. I have had a bad igntion switch or connection
and have it do the same thing, because it can run -but only when your
cranking. Bad battery has also given same symptoms. Whatever you decide to
do remember to start with the easy stuff first. G/L Bart

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 15:05:52 -0500
From: "Lazor, Mark"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Overheating

I was hoping for a clue to an overheating engin. I have swapped
>almost all to the cooling system except the water pump. its an
>88 ford bronco with 5.8l and 160k miles.when the outside temp
>is humid and above 80 degree it will get to the red line on the
>temp gauge when im ideling. When im moving im fine until i
>get into traffic or long red light. I am baffeled. I have installed and
>extra push type fan to the radaitor, it helps alittle. It still gets hot
>just slower getting there. for less confusion i have swapped radiator,
>rad cap twice, thermostat 4 times. upper and lower hose, heater core
>fan clutch (heavy duty) bigger transmission cooler. I am dreading to other
possability that there is alot of friction intenally and having to get rid
of this truck.
>
>
>Thanks In advance
>Mark
>
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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 15:55:55 -0500
From: "Lazor, Mark"
Subject: re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 rough idle

I have had the trouble with the rough idle, especially in summer with the
a/c on.
I check the computer codes and foud egr stuck closed and polution pump
trouble.
Fix those same thing. Then i i swapped out the Throttle position sensor
this was a recomendation from ford and a few others.. Same thing. Some one
told
me the computer is messed up, that i need to clear it and reprogram it..Hey
what ever..
I tried it, and it worked, either by itself of with the combo above. to
clear it and reset it properly.
you need to have it hot, run it to full operating temp, so all sensors are
at there optium work temp.
disconnect the battery for minium 5 mins. Make sure everything is off a/c,
radio etc. Connect battery,
start and let idle for 2 mins, do a full wide open throttle once, let it
idle for 2 min and turn off.
Done. one of the frod dealer mechanic gave that to me with some other
advice, one of the was
change octanes, he says messes up computer stratagies. stick with the same
octane. the higher
the octane to hotter the sensor get. the computer remembers these and
adjusts itself for the future
I would like to know if this works for other,


mark
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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 16:11:16 -0500
From: Chris Porter
Subject: FTE 80-96 - rear antilock & break lights on 89 ranger

hi,
the diagnostics lights for rear antilock and the light that ususally is for
the emergency break for my 89 ranger supercab wont shut off. i've had a few
brakes places look at it, and they can find nothing wrong with the breaks
at all.. so i'm guessing something with the electrical.. but i have no
clue.. and i cant get it past VA state inspection unless those lights are
off..
any ideas?

also anyone know where i can get a seatbelt for an 89 ranger supercab? it's
busted too. the dealer is the only place i know of and they want 89$ for it..

thanx
- -chris



- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----

"One cannot be betrayed if one has no people"
-Kobayashi
(The Usual Suspects)
(1996 polygram entertainment)

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 16:23:33 -0500
From: "John Meade"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Overheating

Mark,

I went through almost the same as you to get my 86 f150 to stay within
operating temperatures. Nothing seemed to work. Finally, I told my
mechanic to pull the radiator and to send it to the shop. He called me to
say that the radiator was to far gone. I got the best price at Pep Boys.
Bought the biggest radiator that would fit and took it to my mechanic. He
had to rip about 1 1/2" from the shroud for it to fit. Absolutely no more
problem. I now haul the boat or whatever in this misserable sultry Florida
weather without overheating. This might be the solution for you, too.

John

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Lazor, Mark
> Sent: Monday, November 09, 1998 3:06 PM
> To: '"'80-96-list ford-trucks.com'' Exchange.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM>
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Overheating
>
>
> I was hoping for a clue to an overheating engin. I have swapped
> >almost all to the cooling system except the water pump. its an
> >88 ford bronco with 5.8l and 160k miles.when the outside temp
> >is humid and above 80 degree it will get to the red line on the
> >temp gauge when im ideling. When im moving im fine until i
> >get into traffic or long red light. I am baffeled. I have installed and
> >extra push type fan to the radaitor, it helps alittle. It still gets hot
> >just slower getting there. for less confusion i have swapped radiator,
> >rad cap twice, thermostat 4 times. upper and lower hose, heater core
> >fan clutch (heavy duty) bigger transmission cooler. I am
> dreading to other
> possability that there is alot of friction intenally and having to get rid
> of this truck.
> >
> >
> >Thanks In advance
> >Mark
> >
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 15:29:52 -0600
From: Steve Randa
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Tach installed

Well I got a tach for my '84 out of an '85 in the salvage and it works
great. Another plus about this gauge cluster was the tripometer that I
didn't previously have. I didn't even have to do any additional wiring!
All I can make of it is Ford must put in a standard wiring harness. This
got me curious about speakers in the doors (I have just one on top of
the dash). I took a door panel off and there was the speaker connection
just laying there. I just might go back out to the salvage and get that
digital clock I talked my self out of. :)

Steve Randa

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 15:05:49 -0700
From: kroger ucla.edu
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Wierd problem #2 (more data)

>
>Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 23:10:13 -0800
>From: Randy
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Woe is me (non-starting problem)
>
>Jim,
>This could be a long shot, but I had it happen once on my V65 Magna
>and went bonkers trying to figure it out. I remember it doing the
>same thing, start, rev, die, start, rev, die. To make this story as
>short as humanly possible, it wound up being the battery. The plates
>inside were shorting out. Even though I push-started the thing it
>would not keep running. Had I known it at the time, I would have
>disconnected the battery and push started it to get it home, but I had
>to call my buddy and load it in his truck. Only time that bike ever
>gave me a problem.
>
>Later,
>Brew


Hi, thanks, but I don't think it's the battery. When I jump the solenoid
(top terminal to back terminal) the starter works fine, then if I
release the jumper as the starter is turning, the engine runs fine.
If I don't release the jumper, the engine will not run.
It will sit there and run, unless I A) reconnect the wire to the top
solenoid terminal or B) move the shift lever out of "park." Either
will cause the engine to stop. With the wire connected, if I turn
the key to start, the starter turns the motor over and it starts to
take off, but then immediately doesn't run. It seems the ignition
starter circuit works, but the ignition run circuit doesn't.
Putting the transmission in neutral does not permit it to run when
doing the solenoid jumper trick, only in park.

Thanks
Jim




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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 18:12:56 EST
From: Skibarefut aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - kroger ucla.edu

The battery could be bad. Any good parts store could check it for you.
Does the engine quit as soon as you let go of the key? If so you could have a
bad ignition switch.

Craig
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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 18:24:10 -0500
From: "Mike S. in FL"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Overheating

Hi Mark:

I've got a similar problem myself, and ran through just about everything
possible, as you did. I haven't got it completely solved yet, but I
believe it has something to do with the transmission. I had a problem
with mine so that it wouldn't work in 4th gear and we had to limp around
everywhere at 55 mph max. After changing the transmissio fluid it
suddenly stopped overheating. A really weird fix, but it did the job.
However, about a month ago I finally got the tranny fixed so we can use
the 4th gear again and bingo: It overheats again when we come to a stop
for more than a few seconds. Ours will still do OK if we rev it up to
about 1800 rpm while we're sitting there.

You might try a fluid change, including the torque converter, and see
what that does. ?? Good luck

Mike S. in FL


Lazor, Mark wrote:
>
> I was hoping for a clue to an overheating engin. I have swapped
> >almost all to the cooling system except the water pump. its an
> >88 ford bronco with 5.8l and 160k miles.when the outside temp
> >is humid and above 80 degree it will get to the red line on the
> >temp gauge when im ideling. When im moving im fine until i
> >get into traffic or long red light. I am baffeled. I have installed and
> >extra push type fan to the radaitor, it helps alittle. It still gets hot
> >just slower getting there. for less confusion i have swapped radiator,
> >rad cap twice, thermostat 4 times. upper and lower hose, heater core
> >fan clutch (heavy duty) bigger transmission cooler. I am dreading to other
> possability that there is alot of friction intenally and having to get rid
> of this truck.
> >
> >
> >Thanks In advance
> >Mark
> >
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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 18:28:09 -0500
From: "Mike S. in FL"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - low speed vibration

Hi Joe:

Just a thought, but did you check the alignment? Or maybe the wheel
bearings? Or possibly one or both of the front brake rotors?

We had a problem with a slight shimmy at low speeds after coming to a
quick stop once and an alignment fixed it.

Mike S. in FL
(remove the 'downto' for correct email address)


Joe Van Beckum wrote:
>
> my 1995 f-150 has a small vibration or shudder as i accelerate from a
> stop ,, it does it only at very slow speeds and is gone by the time i
> reach 30 mph ,,
> could this be something in the tranny ? ,, it has a v-8 302 and a 4r70w
> tranny in it ,,
> anyone ever noticed this or heard about it ,, i just bought the truck
> and its a pretty minor vibration ,, it may be normal ,,
> thanks for any advise ,
> joe ,
>
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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 18:37:35 -0500
From: "Mike S. in FL"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Diesels and stop/go traffic...

Hi Chuck:

No engine likes stop and go traffic, but think about fire engines,
ambulances and the like. I've never seen one that wasn't a diesel, and
they do a LOT of stop and go driving - more like jack rabbit driving.
I've got a diesel F-350 and it seems a lot less trouble in stop and go
than our gas powered van.

Mike S. in FL
(remove the 'downto.' for correct email address)

Chuck Bartlett wrote:
>
> Hi there!
>
> I am currently researching the purchase of a late model F250/350. I was
> originally going to go with the Diesel powerplant, however I was told that
> the engine is not going to like stop and go traffic too much. Rush hour
> traffic is easily over half of the driving we do, so this is a concern.
>
> Should I opt for the gas engine given the type of driving we will be doing?
>
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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 22:33:22 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear antilock & break lights on 89 ranger

Chris,
Seems to me that bugger has to plug in someplace, right? Unplug it
for inspection at least if you don't find the problem by then...

Later,
Brew

Chris Porter wrote:
>
> hi,
> the diagnostics lights for rear antilock and the light that ususally is for
> the emergency break for my 89 ranger supercab wont shut off. i've had a few
> brakes places look at it, and they can find nothing wrong with the breaks
> at all.. so i'm guessing something with the electrical.. but i have no
> clue.. and i cant get it past VA state inspection unless those lights are
> off..
> any ideas?
>
> also anyone know where i can get a seatbelt for an 89 ranger supercab? it's
> busted too. the dealer is the only place i know of and they want 89$ for it..
>
> thanx
> -chris
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
>
> "One cannot be betrayed if one has no people"
> -Kobayashi
> (The Usual Suspects)
> (1996 polygram entertainment)
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 21:58:29 EST
From: Dc9315 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Overheating

well i encountered a overheating problem with out 88 f-350 w/460, automatic.
when towing at speeds above 65mph for any length of time or when idling for a
few minutes, the temp. would slowly increase and continue to rise until we
either slowed down or if idling in traffic,, increased engine speed. done
everyting i could think of,,,,, replaced fan clutch,, replaced radiator,,
pulled water pump; checked impeller to be sure it was not slipping on shaft,,,
removed catalytic converter,,, no changes,,,, finally came down to i had
replaced the oem thermostat with a aftermarket,,, the previous year,,, so a
year had gone by and of course i had forgotten about the thermostat change and
a thermostat is a thermostat,,,, right,,,,, wrong!!!!!!! even though they had
the same opening temp. and when i tested the aftermarket it would open at the
proper temp. but the opening in the aftermarket is very restrictive,,,, as in
the opening for coolant flow is not very large. we got a oem thermostat from
the local ford dealer,,,, installed,,,,, no problem since...... compare the
difference in aftermarket and oem,,,,, the aftermarket was one that is
marketed by gates.... maybe this is some help.... dc
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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 23:59:07 -0600
From: GTH
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Overheating

Another guess...but this was found in my 89F150/300/5sp...when I had
the A/C repaired (actually replaced) it was noted that the fan clutch
didn't (it would turn at what ever speed it wanted to, but not fast
enough)...replacing that has kept the needle in the cold side since.
GHester

"Mike S. in FL" wrote:
>
> Hi Mark:
>
> I've got a similar problem myself, and ran through just about everything
> possible, as you did. I haven't got it completely solved yet, but I
> believe it has something to do with the transmission. I had a problem
> with mine so that it wouldn't work in 4th gear and we had to limp around
> everywhere at 55 mph max. After changing the transmissio fluid it
> suddenly stopped overheating. A really weird fix, but it did the job.
> However, about a month ago I finally got the tranny fixed so we can use
> the 4th gear again and bingo: It overheats again when we come to a stop
> for more than a few seconds. Ours will still do OK if we rev it up to
> about 1800 rpm while we're sitting there.
>
> You might try a fluid change, including the torque converter, and see
> what that does. ?? Good luck
>
> Mike S. in FL
>
> Lazor, Mark wrote:
> >
> > I was hoping for a clue to an overheating engin. I have swapped
> > >almost all to the cooling system except the water pump. its an
> > >88 ford bronco with 5.8l and 160k miles.when the outside temp
> > >is humid and above 80 degree it will get to the red line on the
> > >temp gauge when im ideling. When im moving im fine until i
> > >get into traffic or long red light. I am baffeled. I have installed and
> > >extra push type fan to the radaitor, it helps alittle. It still gets hot
> > >just slower getting there. for less confusion i have swapped radiator,
> > >rad cap twice, thermostat 4 times. upper and lower hose, heater core
> > >fan clutch (heavy duty) bigger transmission cooler. I am dreading to other
> > possability that there is alot of friction intenally and having to get rid
> > of this truck.
> > >
> > >
> > >Thanks In advance
> > >Mark
> > >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 00:05:39 -0600
From: GTH
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear antilock & break lights on 89 ranger

Good luck ('88F150/300/5 here)...the "rear anti lock" light will come on
occasionally, used the code scanner, factory book et. al..know where it
is supposed to plug in under the dash, all this one has is a plug, no
unit (and the FORD dealer I bought it from just looked at me and
said...8 years old/130,000miles..brakes are funtioning..but it is out of
warranty or recall)

GHester

Randy wrote:
>
> Chris,
> Seems to me that bugger has to plug in someplace, right? Unplug it
> for inspection at least if you don't find the problem by then...
>
> Later,
> Brew
>
> Chris Porter wrote:
> >
> > hi,
> > the diagnostics lights for rear antilock and the light that ususally is for
> > the emergency break for my 89 ranger supercab wont shut off. i've had a few
> > brakes places look at it, and they can find nothing wrong with the breaks
> > at all.. so i'm guessing something with the electrical.. but i have no
> > clue.. and i cant get it past VA state inspection unless those lights are
> > off..
> > any ideas?
> >
> > also anyone know where i can get a seatbelt for an 89 ranger supercab? it's
> > busted too. the dealer is the only place i know of and they want 89$ for it..
> >
> > thanx
> > -chris
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > ----
> >
> > "One cannot be betrayed if one has no people"
> > -Kobayashi
> > (The Usual Suspects)
> > (1996 polygram entertainment)
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > ----
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 22:40:53 -0800
From: "ROD GRAY"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Borg Warner T-19 Transmissions
....


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