80-96-list-digest Monday, November 2 1998 Volume 02 : Number 377



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 -ford clip-art for websites
Re: FTE 80-96 - F-150 gas mileage
Re: FTE 80-96 - Faulty Fuel Gauge
FTE 80-96 - shift lever broken
Re: FTE 80-96 - 460 in an F-150?
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Rejected postings
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Web site updates
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:Dead Truck...Again Update
FTE 80-96 - box replacement
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:Dead Truck...Again Update
FTE 80-96 - Re: 5 speed trany
FTE 80-96 - Re: Inoperative/broken shifter linkage in steering column
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:Dead Truck...Again Update
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:Dead Truck...Again Update
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:Dead Truck...Again Update
FTE 80-96 - Speaking of starting circuits
FTE 80-96 - Help me find a wagon?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Speaking of starting circuits
Re: FTE 80-96 - Speaking of starting circuits
FTE 80-96 - Re:Dead Truck...Again Update
Re: FTE 80-96 - Speaking of starting circuits
FTE 80-96 - Shocks don't last
Re: FTE 80-96 - Shocks don't last
Re: FTE 80-96 - Shocks don't last
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 5 speed trany
FTE 80-96 - 92 f 250 shifter
FTE 80-96 - 88 f 250 fnt drive axle u-joint
FTE 80-96 - F-150 Horrible Gas Mileage
FTE 80-96 - Ignition

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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 08:34:06 -0500
From: "Michael Redden"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 -ford clip-art for websites

shy anne:

So far, I had pretty good luck finding cool sites and
asking the "owners" to let me use the graphics.
I give them credit for them. If they have some special,
copywrited stuff and don't want to let you use it directly,
they'll usually let you link to their site.
A few Ford or Ford truck links:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.dca.net/richardj/fd/ff.htm

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu/ (fte list member)

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordvehicles.com/fseries/50th_anniversary/indexjavascript.html

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org/hotfram.htm

Mike

>shy anne wrote:
> you see, i'm going to make a web-page about my truck and I was
> wondering if anybody had any good ford clip-art pages or new of any.
> Thanks everyone! Once I get it together I'll give yall the addy.
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 10:14:19 EST
From: Kbeverwein aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F-150 gas mileage

LD,

I would check out your rear end gears. Sounds like they are pretty low. I
just traded
in my 97 F250, it had the 5.4L with 3.73 gears and i was getting 14-15 in town
and 16-18
on the highway as long as i kept at speed limit. I would look for gears
around 3.45 or 3.50.
But if you do some towing that would be another decision.
I just got the 1999 F250 superduty, CC, Lariat pkg, with the Power Stroke
Desiel.
I like it other than the noise. It has about 3400 miles on it and i am
getting 16.5 mpg at
this time.

Brian
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 10:19:54 EST
From: Kbeverwein aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Faulty Fuel Gauge

Joe,

My Dad just had that problem. What year is your truck. There is two sending
units.
In the case of my dad, his truck is 86 F250, with the 460 cid. His has the in
tank fuel
pumps, so what he did went down to the local autoparts store and bought 2
complete new
ones. I can't seem to recall what he paid. We thought it might be the
switch-over switch.
That sure would have been easier to fix.
Brian
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Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 07:24:06 PST
From: "Bret Luter"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - shift lever broken

Hopefully this will benefit some others on the digest too,

We have 15 Econoline vans at work that are used daily as delivery
vehicles. I have seen this problem on several of these (mostly the
92-94's). Can't say for sure if the F-series has the same set-up but
it's worth a shot. What happens is that the shifter arm that you use to
select your gear (PRND321) is connected to the linkage (that connects to
the tranny) via an aluminum tube with a metal rod inside of it (this is
all inside the steering column).
Over years of use and pulling the shifter down into "D" a few thousand
times, the aluminum tube breaks in half. The shifter arm is still
connected to the top half of the tube/rod assembly but it doesn't
transmit the movement to the tranny via the linkage.
The fix is not too difficult (our vehicles DO NOT have tilt), call or
stop by your local FORD dealer and tell them what happened and they
should know what you need (should be the aluminum tube, the steel rod
and 2 plastic bushings), I'm not sure of the cost but it seems that it's
around $75-80 for all of this. You then have to drop the steering
column by removing the 4 (?) main bolts that support it to the bottom of
the dash (once it is released- it should drop several inches until the
steering wheel rests on the driver's seat).
Once you remove the cover off of the TOP of the steering column you
should be able to see the parts in question. They are held onto the
column by Torx bolts so be prepared! Just remember how they go back on
and the whole thing should take less than 1 hour (barring any
complications!). The cable that moves the gear indicator attaches to the
aluminum tube on a little tab.

Hope this helps, it seems to be a common problem on the E-series vans we
have that are used pretty heavily!
Feel free to E-mail directly if you need more specifics.

Bret Luter, Raleigh, NC
'85 F350 Crew Cab 6.9l (BMW Hauler)

(Original message below!)
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 13:43:25 -0500
From: "E.J."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 92 F-250 Inoperative/broken shifter linkage
in steering column

Hello all. Have a 92 F-250 with E4OD, tilt and cruise. Went to
jump in
the truck yesterday and put it into gear, and nothing. Column
shifter
completely inoperative, felt something that did'nt quite feel
right when
i went to take it out of park, but did'nt quite feel and or hear
anything snap or break, when i did it. I did however
consequently end up
breaking the thin wire-like shifter indicator cable from trying
unsuccesfully for 5 minutes to get the truck out of park, but
that's the
least of my worries. No warning signs leading up to this at all,
like
difficult shifting before etc.. Truck was fully warmed up and
parked on
level ground, had only ran in the store for newspapers, parked
for maybe
5 minutes. Yanked out tilt lever and ignition cylinder to remove
the
upper steering column trim, and can see the upper part of the
column
moving with the shifter handle, but i'd imagine somewhere
further down
the column, something has become disconnected or broke. The
shifter has
no tension on it at all. Down up under the dash at the base of
the
column, none of the linkage is moving. I did however rule out
any
mechanical transmission or linkage troubles. I popped the
shifter cable
off of the linkage to the steering column, and was able to
manually
shift the trans by hand at the cable, so i could at least get
the truck
home. I have yet to remove the instrument cluster to get a
better look
at the middle section of the steering column, to see if there is
something obviously broke and or disconnected.

Anybody been down this same unfortunate road before ? Kind of
like a
"been there done that" ? And if so what was the fix ? Is this a
common
problem/occurence with these steering columns ?

Thanks to all in advance.
- - --
"EJ"
Hamilton Township(suburb of Trenton)
New Jersey
On digest, not regular
mail


______________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 10:26:47 EST
From: Kbeverwein aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 460 in an F-150?

Jim,

What year is your truck. You could go with the 351w, my Dad has that in his
van.
It just rebuilt it last year and come to find out it was a ford factory
rebuilt which was bored
40 thousands and his has the C-6. The van is 86 E150 Good times van, it is
long and loaded down with stuff. Let me tell you that thing will haul ass.
He is getting about 14mpg
on that. I would even consider going with the 5.4L engine. That is what I
had in my 97
F250.
I don't think I would go with the 460. 5.4L, 351w or even the 400 would be
some prime
canidates.
Brian
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Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 11:57:28 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Rejected postings

Due to an error on my part when updating our list server
filters, our list server incorrectly rejected several
emails from users of Microsoft email products. If you
use Microsoft email software and you posting did not
show up, try again as it should work now.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com
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Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 11:57:28 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Web site updates

Many new links have been added to the web site. Not
all the submitted links have been added yet. If you
did not receive an email stating that its been added,
then I haven't gotten to it yet.

Additionally, 36 trucks have been added to the pictorial,
bringing the total number of trucks featured to 282.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 14:35:21 -0500
From: troyw mfi.net (Troy Williams)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:Dead Truck...Again Update

On 31 Oct 98, at 18:59, Casey Vandor wrote:

> What am I missing? I have nothing left to check, the soleniod will
>click, but the starter does not try to engage. I can't think of anything
>else to check. I was told that the wire could crystalize with acid on it
>and no let voltage over it. Is this a possiblity? Would it happen
>overnight like this?

That could be it. I would go ahead and clean the battery cables.
Just remove the wires from the poles, and then take a knife and
scrape them out with a knife. Maybe do that to the poles as well.

There was one lady that was stuck in a parking lot because her car
wouldn't start. Turns out it was dirty cables that wouldn't let the
voltage pass through. Yes, it sometimes does happen pretty
quickly.

You might be a redneck if... Your dog passes gas and you claim it.
- Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mfi.net/~troyw
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 11:38:21 -0800
From: "Evan & Teresa"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - box replacement

hi all
i would like to know if a box off a 96 f-150 regular cab will bolt right on
to an 88 f-250 supercab both are long boxes with dual tanks but i don't know
if the mounts are in the same place
any input would be appreciated
thanks
evan

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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 14:41:54 -0500
From: troyw mfi.net (Troy Williams)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:Dead Truck...Again Update

On 31 Oct 98, at 18:59, Casey Vandor wrote:

> What am I missing? I have nothing left to check, the soleniod will
>click, but the starter does not try to engage. I can't think of anything
>else to check. I was told that the wire could crystalize with acid on it
>and no let voltage over it. Is this a possiblity? Would it happen
>overnight like this?

That could be it. I would go ahead and clean the battery cables.
Just remove the wires from the poles, and then take a knife and
scrape them out with a knife. Maybe do that to the poles as well.

There was one lady that was stuck in a parking lot because her car
wouldn't start. Turns out it was dirty cables that wouldn't let the
voltage pass through. Yes, it sometimes does happen pretty
quickly.

You might be a redneck if... You judge your wealth by how many junk
cars you have in you front yard. - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mfi.net/~troyw
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 14:53:08 -0500
From: "msalvetti"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 5 speed trany

>how do i get the hydraulic off the slave cylinder
>95 f 150 I 6 5 speed F. I.
>DJsocal

If it's anything like my 1986, there should be a small roll pin that you
need to drive out of the slave. That will let you remove the line. It
should come out very easily. It might be easier to remove the slave from
the transmission first.

Mark
1986 F150
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 16:01:33 -0500
From: JGA
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Inoperative/broken shifter linkage in steering column

Ah, yes. It sounds like the old broken shift lock problem. Had the same
thing happen to me last summer. In the top of the column under the
directional switch there is a small *cast, pot metal* lever that operates
when you shift to park and take the key out. That's the part I believe is
broken. It's not going to be fun getting it out either. The guys at my
friendly Ford shop had to disassemble most of the column top and use picks
and tweezers to get the broken piece out of the hole it rides in. When
mine let go it felt like I was twisting a piece of plastic that suddenly
separated. The good news is, it's about a 10 buck part, if they have it.
The bad news is, if they get to do it they're going to ding your wallet
for about a hundred.

good luck on this one!

J



>
> Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 13:43:25 -0500
> From: "E.J."
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - 92 F-250 Inoperative/broken shifter linkage in
steering column
>
> Hello all. Have a 92 F-250 with E4OD, tilt and cruise. Went to jump in
> the truck yesterday and put it into gear, and nothing. Column shifter
> completely inoperative, felt something that did'nt quite feel right when
> i went to take it out of park, but did'nt quite feel and or hear
> anything snap or break, when i did it.
>
> snip
>
> Anybody been down this same unfortunate road before ? Kind of like a
> "been there done that" ? And if so what was the fix ? Is this a common
> problem/occurence with these steering columns ?
>
> snip
>
> Thanks to all in advance.
> - --
> "EJ"
> Hamilton Township(suburb of Trenton)
> New Jersey
> On digest, not regular
> mail
>
>
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 16:58:22 -0500
From: "Doug McGuinn"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:Dead Truck...Again Update

- -----Original Message-----
From: Troy Williams
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, November 01, 1998 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:Dead Truck...Again Update


On 31 Oct 98, at 18:59, Casey Vandor wrote:

> What am I missing? I have nothing left to check, the soleniod will
>click, but the starter does not try to engage. I can't think of anything
>else to check. I was told that the wire could crystalize with acid on it
>and no let voltage over it. Is this a possiblity? Would it happen
>overnight like this?

Was there a heavy dew that night? It could be that there is a hairline crack
in the battery cable and moisture got in. I had a similar problem on my
F150. Replaced the battery cable, sanded off the rust on the solenoid
connectors and coated them with rubber sealer. It solved the problem.

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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 17:10:08 -0500
From: "Christopher Maher"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:Dead Truck...Again Update

Check for a bad ground at the engine. You can test this by connecting a
jumper cable from the neg. battery terminal to the engine block and see if
it cranks then.

Christopher T. Maher
- -----Original Message-----
From: Casey Vandor
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: October 31, 1998 10:06 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:Dead Truck...Again Update


> Had the battery load tested...it's in great shape.
> New Solenoid
> Had the starter tested...there is play in the arm, but it is in great
>condition other than that, so it should at least try to work.
> All the connections look good.
> I bypassed the ignition, and jumped the solenoid. It will click, but
>will not engage the starter.
> What am I missing? I have nothing left to check, the soleniod will
>click, but the starter does not try to engage. I can't think of
>anything else to check. I was told that the wire could crystalize with
>acid on it and no let voltage over it. Is this a possiblity? Would it
>happen overnight like this?
>
>Thanks,
>Casey
>
>The graduate with a Science degree asks, "Why does it work?"
>The graduate with an Engineering degree asks, "How does it work?"
>The graduate with an Accounting degree asks, "How much will it cost?"
>The graduate with a Liberal Arts degree asks, "Do you want fries with
>that?"
>
>
>
>______________________________________________________
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>

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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 17:32:09 -0500
From: troyw mfi.net (Troy Williams)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:Dead Truck...Again Update

On 1 Nov 98, at 16:58, Doug McGuinn wrote:

>Was there a heavy dew that night? It could be that there is a hairline
>crack in the battery cable and moisture got in. I had a similar problem on
>my F150. Replaced the battery cable, sanded off the rust on the solenoid
>connectors and coated them with rubber sealer. It solved the problem.

What I would suggest then, when the thing dries out, go ahead and
get some ignition sealer or whatever it is. I sprayed it on around
my distributor cap since when I would hit a water puddle, my truck
would play hell starting the next time if I didn't drive it for any length
of time.

You might be a redneck if... Your blood alcohol content has
ever exceeded your IQ. - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mfi.net/~troyw
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 17:45:53 -0500
From: "Michael Redden"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Speaking of starting circuits

Hi:

I'm going to take the advise and seal my solenoid connections, too!

I have a buzzing sound coming from behind the
left side of the dash when I crank the starter. Is there a relay back
there
that could be doing that? It mainly happens when cold. So far doesn't
seem to affect the cranking capability.

Never heard that type of noise before.
It isn't the clicking sound that you here when there's a solenoid or
battery connection problem. More of a midrange buzz...
Any ideas?

Mike
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 19:33:21 -0500
From: Andrew T Vincitore
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Help me find a wagon?

Since we are all Ford blood here, I thought I could ask for some help
finding a rarer car. I would like to find a 90 or 91 Crown victoria Wagon=
=2E =

My family is growing and I don't want a minivan. Any leads please direct
them to me at Pianofxr compuserve.com. Thanks!

Andrew
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Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 17:12:56 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Speaking of starting circuits

Does it buzz when you turn the switch on (before turning over the engine?)

Bob



Michael Redden wrote:

> Hi:
>
> I'm going to take the advise and seal my solenoid connections, too!
>
> I have a buzzing sound coming from behind the
> left side of the dash when I crank the starter.

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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 20:13:16 -0500
From: troyw mfi.net (Troy Williams)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Speaking of starting circuits

On 1 Nov 98, at 17:45, Michael Redden wrote:

>I'm going to take the advise and seal my solenoid connections, too!
>
>I have a buzzing sound coming from behind the
>left side of the dash when I crank the starter. Is there a relay back
>there that could be doing that? It mainly happens when cold. So far
>doesn't seem to affect the cranking capability.
>
>Never heard that type of noise before.
>It isn't the clicking sound that you here when there's a solenoid or
>battery connection problem. More of a midrange buzz...
>Any ideas?

It sounds to me like you've got fuel injection, it might be the pump
that is just trying to bring fuel to the engine so you don't have to hit
the gas a couple times like you would with a carbuerator. I haven't
been able to detect where the noise is coming from though to tell
you the truth. The noise isn't like a buzz, but more like a hum.

You might be a redneck if... You use a cow pie for a paper weight.
- Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 20:46:05 EST
From: Skibarefut aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:Dead Truck...Again Update

Did you check the ground stud? Many times this is overlooked. While you
are at it, check all of the battery wiring. It would be best to disconnect
the battery terminals along with all of the other connections and clean them
thoroughly. I have seen very small amounts of corrosion impede proper starter
action.

Craig
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 20:59:13 -0500
From: "Michael Redden"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Speaking of starting circuits

I appreciate the quick replies, you two! I don't have fuel injection and
it only buzzes (mainly when cold) when I crank the starter, not when I
turn the switch to the on position.

Thanks,

Mike
>
> Does it buzz when you turn the switch on (before turning over the
engine?)
>
> Bob
>
> Michael Redden wrote:>
> > I have a buzzing sound coming from behind the
> > left side of the dash when I crank the starter.

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Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 19:48:38 -0600
From: Chad A Dietrich
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Shocks don't last

I just put the highest Gabrielle shocks in my truck and after about
4000mi there shot in the front and there is a bit of play in the back.
What kind of shocks should I be using?
Would it be worth looking at converting it over to quad shock? the
reason I am wondering about quad shock is I have 31x10.5 and when I fill
them to what they recommend they are like a basket ball and hard on the
shock. When I only put about 35psi they are to sloppy and the rim
bounces way to much in the tire.
Any Thoughts?
Chad

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Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 22:57:46 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Shocks don't last

Chad,
I think quad shocks would be excessive for 31's to say the least. Now
dual shocks might be ok. Four shocks on one 31" tire is too much
dampning for the spring/tire's energy. I know dual fronts are really
easy on mine ('87 F-250HD, leafs) since the shock tower is a deep
vertical 'C' channel. Just buy long enough bolts, use four bushins (2
top, 2 bottom) and mount the shocks outside the mounting channel.
As for the tire pressure. My tires are at 85 max I think, but if I
filled them that high, it would bounce me right out of the truck, I go
about 65. If they're like basketballs, drop maybe 5 psi each and
drive for a week. If too high still maybe -5 again. Adjust until you
feel comfortable, nice ride, not too much side roll.

Later,
Randy (Brew)

Chad A Dietrich wrote:
>
> I just put the highest Gabrielle shocks in my truck and after about
> 4000mi there shot in the front and there is a bit of play in the back.
> What kind of shocks should I be using?
> Would it be worth looking at converting it over to quad shock? the
> reason I am wondering about quad shock is I have 31x10.5 and when I fill
> them to what they recommend they are like a basket ball and hard on the
> shock. When I only put about 35psi they are to sloppy and the rim
> bounces way to much in the tire.
> Any Thoughts?
> Chad
>
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 23:48:59 EST
From: GLMPILOT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Shocks don't last

If your real serious about shocks get a set of bilstine coil overs then
augment your I beams for increased wheel travel and lengthen the radius arms
this makes for a real good time off roaming (but that might be to much). A
good pair of rancho 9000s 5 way adjustable would be fine.
Dwayne, so cal desert
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 23:57:36 EST
From: GLMPILOT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 5 speed trany

I have to remove the trany that I no for sure, the hydraulic going to the
slave has locking clips on the new one and no way ,(with my tools short of a
hack saw through the line) that I can see to get the used one off any help ??
Dwayne, so cal desert.
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 20:10:13 -0900
From: "L WALTERS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 92 f 250 shifter

start at trans. and move upthe linkage to shifter column looking for
disconnected shifter rods, I've seen those cheap clips come off before. the
prindle cable you broke is easily replaced but I think you'll have to go to
dealer for part, but try NAPA or equiv. first. could be cheaper.

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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 20:19:46 -0900
From: "L WALTERS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 88 f 250 fnt drive axle u-joint

Zeb, IFS or Solid axle. doesn't matter, it is easy to r&r the u-joint.
You'll have to have a special socket to remove wheel bearings. Then remove
spindle (5or6 nuts attaching spindle to the Knuckle) once spindle is off
just yank drive shaft from pumpkin. r&r joint (buy the kind that is
greasable). should invest in "HAYNES" or "CHILTON" manual. they sell them at
part stores around 20-30 dollars. well worth the money and has this
procedure in it. G/L Bart.

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Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 23:15:46 -0600
From: Ezekial
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Horrible Gas Mileage

I saw the post about bad gas mileage. Well I just happened to have the
same problem. I just got my truck last week and have been driving it so
much that I have put at least 100 miles a day on it so far. But will go
back down soon after the new wares off. My truck is a 1993 F-150 ext.
cab, 4x4 off-road, 351 (5.8), auto, with I think 3.55 gears. After
running a scan on it I determined it had a bad EGO sensor, so I
disconnected the EGR valve til I get a new one. It keeps the check
engine light on now after disconnected the vacuum line to it, on my
totaled 88 model it didin't do that. Damn new advanced computer.
Anyways, the torque convertor is slipping very little now and I took off....


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