80-96-list-digest Thursday, October 15 1998 Volume 02 : Number 359



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Octane/manual
Re: FTE 80-96 - Locking of hubs...
FTE 80-96 - Re: Just no fun to drive
Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer
FTE 80-96 - muffler on 5.0
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Just no fun to drive
FTE 80-96 - glow plug controllers
Re: FTE 80-96 - muffler on 5.0
Re: FTE 80-96 - muffler on 5.0
Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 gas or diesel?
FTE 80-96 - 5.8 Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear Diff questions/info
FTE 80-96 - Re: locking hubs and pulling fuel mileage
FTE 80-96 - How much damage did I do?
FTE 80-96 - Good Deal ??
FTE 80-96 - '85 EFI F-150 Starting Problem HELP !

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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 07:20:00 -0500
From: "Wallace, Craig"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Octane/manual

Troy Williams wrote:

"Alright, where would I find that for an '84 F-150? I do not have
the vehicle manual. That's why I am asking about it here. "
________________________________________________________

Troy,

Perhaps you didn't get my previous e-mail sent on Thursday, Oct 8th, so here
it is again....

I took the liberty of checking on-line for you today. JC Whitney has a
manual for your truck. Stock number is: 81ZX1395N. It covers 76-86
full-size pickups (F100, F150, F250 F350), and Bronco. It's only $15.99.
Personally, I think that's a minor investment for all the headaches it will
save you.

The octane rating for your truck should be listed in this manual. Hope this
helps.

Craig
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 08:19:37 -0600
From: Dave Armbruster
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Locking of hubs...

>Ferino, Chris wrote:
>
>> out the auto hubs for Warn manuals. But on my '93, I have the auto hubs
>> again. So the question is - is there any way to lock just the hubs (yes, I
>> know - installing manuals will achieve this, but it's not in the cards
right
>
>You got it. :-)
>
>> now), or do I need to put it in full 4wd for a short straight-line drive?
>> (I have the pushbutton touch-drive).
>
>I don't think thats possible with everything being engaged
>electronically or with vacuum.

I engage the 4wd, go straight for about 1 revolution of the tires to lock
the hubs and disengage the 4wd from the dash. The hubs remain locked until
I back up and unlock them (you can hear the click). This would be no
different than locking the hubs manually, just more work.

>
>- --
>Thanks,
> Rick Wojo
> '83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
> '92 Mstng 5.0L
> '95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)
>
>
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>
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 12:06:40 -0500
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Just no fun to drive

Thanks for the suggestions. I will check, test and/or replace the MAP and
TPS sensors to eliminate these possible causes. Since it looks like we're
after a fuel system type problem, could low fuel pressure or dirty injectors
also be a cause of lean part throttle and hesitation problems? Does anyone
get their injectors cleaned (the professional shop service with injector
cleaner) periodically, like every 100K or so?
David Anderson
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 13:23:35 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer

BigRed wrote:
I'd say you're doing good too considering I was lucky to get 8.5 with my
87302 not pulling anything. Then I pulled it apart and found a broken
skirt and a hole in another piston so maybe that had something to do
with it. Even before that I was only getting around 10 or so. I do know
a guy with a 460 pulling 3500# getting 12 mpg going 70 mph in a 3/4 ton
I thought that was pretty good.

Thats the difference a 460 gas mileage is problem the worst out there
unloaded but it get just about the same weather loaded or not. Yeah the
small blocks might get 17 unloaded but load them up and then 8-9 mpg
seems awful, while the 12 mpg 460 get about the same mileage all the
time! Unless extremely loaded down. Thats part of the decision when
buying a truck!
Chris
94 Lightning #381(doesn't haull anything but A**)

> >That's not bad considering you're doing 70. And if you did it in
> >three similar rigs and came up with the same mpg, then I'd say you're
> >right on. I get about 8-9 w/my '87 351W pulling my 2500 # camper.
> >
> >Later,
> >Randy (Brew)
> >
> >KSMIKE aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >> I have a 96 Ford with a 5.8 engine and auto transmission. It gets 15 mpg
> solo
> >> and 7.5 mpg pulling my 7,000 # travel trailer at 70mph. It seems to me
> that
> >> the mpg pulling the trailer is lower than it should be. I have used two
> almost
> >> identical trucks to pull this trailer with the same mpg result. I was
> just
> >> curious what other members of the list were getting with a similar rigs.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 10:44:07 -0700
From: uziboy uclink4.berkeley.edu
Subject: FTE 80-96 - muffler on 5.0

hey everyone, i'm getting a new muffler put in and i need some advice. do
you guys have any suggestions? i'm looking for one that is a bit louder
than stock (i want to hear it over the engine rev), but not annoying loud.
dynomax? flowmaster? those are two that i keep hearing mentioned. thanks
for you help.

andy
89 5.0 bronco
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 11:32:36 -0700
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Just no fun to drive

>Thanks for the suggestions. I will check, test and/or replace the MAP and
>TPS sensors to eliminate these possible causes. Since it looks like we're
>after a fuel system type problem, could low fuel pressure or dirty injectors
>also be a cause of lean part throttle and hesitation problems? Does anyone
>get their injectors cleaned (the professional shop service with injector
>cleaner) periodically, like every 100K or so?
>David Anderson

I thought about that as being the source of my problem too. I don't have a
pressure guage so what I did was disconnect the return fuel line at the
fuel resevoir(in frame rail) and measured the amount of gas that flowed out
with the pump running for ~10 seconds. Should be about a pint or so.
Mark Ponsford


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 13:14:20 -0700
From: "Peter Mack"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - glow plug controllers

I have recently purchased a glow plug controller from Borg-Warner (GPC3) and
when I tested it, it doesn't appear to work like the Haynes manual said it
should. Does anyone have a 83-86 f250 6.9 diesel with some insight about the
controller? I would like to use the afterglow feature (turn off the
controller after the engine starts, after suitable delay). I would like to
have continous pulses until it is turned off at pin 1. I am also curious if
there are alternative products available.

thanks
pete


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 15:46:33 -0500
From: Travis
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - muffler on 5.0

Hello Andy, great to see you've got an 89 Bronco! I love mine. Mine has a
5.8 in it though, and I LOVE it to be loud. So I've got 12 inch glasspacks
on it. =) But since you're not going for loud, you may want to look into
some longer ones. The longer the glasspack the quieter. My friend has a
Chevy with a 5.0 (305) in it, and he's got 24 inch glasspacks on it, and it
sounds good, his truck is pretty fast, and it's not so loud that you'd get a
ticket or get annoyed, but it's loud enough to hear over the engine. But if
you don't like glasspacks, the only other muffler I'd recommend would be
3-chamber flowmasters. They sound good, (personally I prefer glasspacks)
but they sound good and they're a very nice sound, not annoying by any
means. And they also advertise a 15 hp and 30+ ft/lbs tq gain, but I can't
verify if you'll really get that, I've never had them, but one of my friends
had them on his Chevy 5.7 and they sounded nice. Hope this helps ya out a
little.

Travis

At 10:44 AM 10/14/98 -0700, you wrote:
>hey everyone, i'm getting a new muffler put in and i need some advice. do
>you guys have any suggestions? i'm looking for one that is a bit louder
>than stock (i want to hear it over the engine rev), but not annoying loud.
>dynomax? flowmaster? those are two that i keep hearing mentioned. thanks
>for you help.
>
>andy
>89 5.0 bronco
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>
>

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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 14:02:20 -0700
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - muffler on 5.0

>hey everyone, i'm getting a new muffler put in and i need some advice. do
>you guys have any suggestions? i'm looking for one that is a bit louder
>than stock (i want to hear it over the engine rev), but not annoying loud.
>dynomax? flowmaster? those are two that i keep hearing mentioned. thanks
>for you help.
>
>andy
>89 5.0 bronco

Just a regular run-of-the-mill replacement from your local brake and
muffler will probably be louder. At least, that's what happened to me when
I got my factory muffler replaced.

I figure it's because the replacement is manufactured with lower costs in
mind and consequently has less baffling.?

mp
88 5.0 F150


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 19:53:42 EDT
From: CMYRED1 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 gas or diesel?

IVE GOT 2 95 SUPERDUTY DI....LOTS OF PROBS
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 20:17:50 -0400
From: jclem
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer

Mike:

I don't have a truck real similar to yours. I have a 98 F150
4.6l 4R70W and 3.55 rear end. I pull a 25ft travel trailer with mine
which weighs about 5,000lbs. Doing about 60mpg I get about 10mpg. I
have a couple friends with rigs similar to yours who get about 8mpg.

Jim

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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 19:53:12 -0500
From: "bikerdan"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer

93 F450 Super duty with 7.3 diesel
15.1 solo
11.2 towing
truck weighs 10233+-
184.4" wb with 5.13 rear=3000 rpm 70 mph
trailer, 38' fiver 3 axle weighs 14k+++



. I get about 8-9 w/my '87 351W pulling my 2500 # camper.
> >
> > I have a 96 Ford with a 5.8 engine and auto transmission. It gets 15
mpg solo
> > and 7.5 mpg pulling my 7,000 # travel trailer at 70mph.
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 19:55:53 -0500
From: "bikerdan"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear Diff questions/info

> So, whats the deal, can we SAFELY use a synthetic lube
>
> Jorge E. Ramirez


yes synthetics work good
I use Amsoil
wanna' buy some?
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 23:23:00 EDT
From: BGar02167 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: locking hubs and pulling fuel mileage

Yes, lock your truck in 4wd occasionally it is good for the transfer case.

You are probably using more oil as well as fuel pulling 7,000# at 70mph!
You know running an engine fast is not bad for it,because it keeps cyl.walls
clean,but running it wide open under load is bad for it,that is why you are
dumping fuel out your tailpipe.
Good Luck Brian G
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 20:44:05 -0700
From: "vossdanpam"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - How much damage did I do?

>
> Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 23:00:52 -0700
> From: Randy
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - How much damage did I do?
>
> Chad A Dietrich wrote:
> >
> > Randy,
> > I disagree. I have bound many front axles driving in four wheel on
dry pavement. When
> > it happened the first time the dealer told me that on my 86 Dana 44 the
front wheels would
> > spin more than the back wheels (i.e. that's why you put chains on the
front wheels not the
> > back on a 4x4). This would prevent the limited slip from always working
properly. If you
> > are in 4x and attempt a corner with every thing locked in and on the
gas a bit you will
> > feel the hopping of the front end because the diff isn't working
properly. Of course you
> > can do it is long as you are not adding power while turning or even
going straight. that's
> > why they recommend not driving on dry pavement.
> >
> > Randy wrote:
> >
> - -----snip-----
>
> The hopping or lugging of the front of my F-250 is caused by the outer
> axleshaft U-joints being turned to their limits. Or at least that's
> what I've always concluded. But realistically short drives on dry
> pavement won't do any damage to a driveline, but I agree, long term,
> yes, especially early wear/fatigue. Unless, of course, you drive
> around the Super K-mart parking lot all day long trying to turn into
> tight parking spaces... :)
>
> Later,
> Randy (Brew)
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>
I disagree. It depends which truck you have. Some Dodge trucks actually
had a rear differential that was of a higher (lower number) ratio than the
front. Most Fords have the same ratio but my 98 Class C ESuperduty
motorhome has a 4.63 in the rear and a 4.56 or so in the front. Yes it is a
4 wheel drive Tioga from the factory. It has manual hubs and a standard
Ford issue transfer case, so NO way would I drive on dry pavement with the
hubs locked and in 4 wheel drive. Now, I have no problem at all driving
hundreds of miles with the hubs lock but out of 4 wheel. Remember, W.W.II
was
won with no hubs to unlock on the Jeeps and Trucks.
Even wet pavement will cause wrap-up when you are locked and in 4x4. My
F350 4x4 with standard differentials, loaded with a camper and towing
snowmobiles, will make you feel like you are folding a tire under during a
turn. I have done this several times while traveling in 4x4 and locked and
then I decided to turn sharply into a gas station and forgot to pull it
into 2HI.

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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 20:47:26 -0700
From: mparrott thomas.com (Michael Parrott)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Good Deal ??

Hello-

I was curious to get some feedback on the price of a Ford van that I am selling, in order to purchase a new Ford van. i am currently asking $5800 for a 1989 e-350 club wagon, 15 passenger. It has the 5.8 with Gibson Exhaust and 118,000 miles. The van is very clean inside and out, is this a fair price for this vehicle?? ps (california smog legal)

Mike P


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 23:42:25 -0500
From: "Albin"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '85 EFI F-150 Starting Problem HELP !

I have a problem that has baffled many for literally years. I
have a 1985 (6th mon) F-150 w/ 302 EFI Engine 2WD (Auto) 83k
mls. The problem first began after being warm and attempting to
restart. When it does start, it starts proper. No gas applied, it
idles high until warm and reduces idle properly. Cold Idle only works
sometimes I can start it and it will turn over then die
imediately.. It then acts and smells of too much gas. This seems to
"fowl-out" the plugs and now I have to press the accellerator in often
different combinations to get the thing to finally kick over. When it
does finally start, heavy gas odor and blue smoke are emitted. This
starting problem occurs whether cold or warm, but often after sitting
a day or two, it will start up proper . Anytime it does run, it is
strong, no flat spots, no misses.
It does have 2 fuel pressure regulators, one on each rail. If at
least one were bad, could this be the cause of the problem ? Could
"leaky" injectors be the cause of the problem? I have no muffler,
could this be the cause of the problem? Is there any part(s) between
ignition switch and the coil (ie. balance resistor) ?

Work Performed thus far:

Fuel pressure checked and injectors cleaned by my mechanic
(non-dealer).

New Parts:
Thermistat
Spark Plugs (8)
Plug Wires & Coil Wire
Distributor Cap
Rotor Button
Coolent Temp Sensor

Parts Exchanged during trouble-shooting:
Air Charged Sensor
Computer Processor
Ignitian Coil....

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