80-96-list-digest Wednesday, October 14 1998 Volume 02 : Number 357



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - [Fwd: Digest fordnatics.v003.n1884]
FTE 80-96 - Re: Just no fun to drive
FTE 80-96 - 5.8 Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer
FTE 80-96 - Locking of hubs...
Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer
FTE 80-96 - RE: Clutch Job & Tranny problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer
Re: FTE 80-96 - Clutch Job & Tranny problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Octane
Re: FTE 80-96 - Clutch Job & Tranny problem
FTE 80-96 - Re: Steering problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Locking of hubs...
Re: FTE 80-96 - Just no fun to drive
FTE 80-96 - RE:1985 351W miss/some fouled some not
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:FTE 80-96-Fuel or Ignition problem
FTE 80-96 - Re: Door buzzer and front diff(damage did I do)
Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer
FTE 80-96 - Rear Diff questions/info
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: T-shirt design vote
Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer

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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:35:43 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: FTE 80-96 - [Fwd: Digest fordnatics.v003.n1884]

Forwarding for a freind, it's for a different (older) body style, but
maybe someone here knows. Please respond to the list, me or him. TIA

Brian D. Stroud wrote:
>
> On Mon, 12 Oct 1998 14:57:23 -0400, Andre Roy wrote:
>
> >fordnatics-errors lists.best.com wrote:
> >> >
> >>
> >> --------------- MESSAGE fordnatics.v003.n1884.7 ---------------
> >>
> >> From: "Brian D. Stroud"
> >> Subject: Verification
> >> Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 10:30:38 -0700
> >> MIME-Version: 1.0
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> >>
> >> I'm looking for a Dana 44 front axle, left hand diff, coil sprung.
> >> Sound familiar? I *THINK* it is a 76-77 Ford F150/250 item, can anyone
> >> verify?
> >>
> >Hey Brian! How's it goin'? I guess that's for your 4wd van conversion,
> >eh?
> >I just took a look through my Haynes manual for 80-96 Ford trucks nd
> >they mention a Dana-60 front axle. If you want, I can ask the Ford Truck
> >list, but they're split on model years, so I'm on the 80-96 list. Won't
> >hurt to ask, though.
> >
> >>
> >> --------------- MESSAGE fordnatics.v003.n1884.8 ---------------
> >
> >--
> >Andre, Somewhere ...
> >
> Thanks, please do. The important item is the coil sprung part. Tons of leaf
> sprung, and tons of IFS Dana 44's, but very few coil sprung, non IFS
> Dana's.
>
> Brian D. Stroud stroud deltanet.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://users.deltanet.com/~stroud
> 70 440 Duster Roller Cammed and Tunnel Rammed
> 77 440 Dodge Van Hookers, Harland's, big valve, NOS
> 78 440 4x4 Dodge Truck 727 NP203 SWB
> 87 5.0 Mustang GT Hatchback Headers, 5sp, Flowmasters
> O-
> Bottles.... They aren't just for babies anymore
> It's gotta be big, loud, and brutally fast

- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:02:31 -0500
From: "Gary W Beyer"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Just no fun to drive

Sounds like a classic case of a bad throttle position sensor. These are
typically a potentiometer like is used in radios and TVs on the volume
control. They get worn out and dirty and send an intermittent or wrong
reading to the computer resulting in an incorrect fuel mixture for the
current throttle position. Try replacing it.

Gary

>Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:14:58 -0500
>From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Just no fun to drive

> I'm trying hard to enjoy driving my '90 F150, 300 I6, E4OD, but ever
>since I bought it last fall with 95K miles it's had this nagging
>driveability problem. At this point I don't even know if it's fuel or
>ignition, so I turn to you all for suggestions.
> 1. To cold start an EFI engine you're supposed to just turn the key
>without touching the gas and let the computer manage the fast idle. If I
do
>this it just sputters and dies. So I use the throttle to keep it running
>for the first minute or so. After the first minute, and any time the
engine
>is warm, the idle is perfect; very smooth, correct RPM. So this cold
start
>thing is just like a carburated engine without a choke. All warm starts
are
>fine, a little fast idle then settles down.
> 2. During part throttle acceleration there is a miss, sometimes to
>the point of bucking. This happens when the engine is cold and most of
the
>time when warm. Heavy to full throttle acceleration is smooth with plenty
>of power.
> 3. Lastly is the off-idle hesitation or flat spot. Just sitting at
>a stop with a perfect idle I never know when I'll get a big sag when I
ease
>onto the gas. This is probably the most annoying problem.


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 09:45:56 EDT
From: KSMIKE aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer

I have a 96 Ford with a 5.8 engine and auto transmission. It gets 15 mpg solo
and 7.5 mpg pulling my 7,000 # travel trailer at 70mph. It seems to me that
the mpg pulling the trailer is lower than it should be. I have used two almost
identical trucks to pull this trailer with the same mpg result. I was just
curious what other members of the list were getting with a similar rigs.

Mike

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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 10:09:58 -0500
From: "Ferino, Chris"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Locking of hubs...

This is my first post to the list - I've been absorbing all the valuable
information for the last few months.

I've been following the discussion about using 4WD on dry pavement with
great interest.
After reading all the posts to date, only one question sticks in my mind.

It was mentioned that you should lock your hubs once a month or so for a
very short time if for no other reason than to make sure the parts stay well
lubricated. On my old '87 Bronco, that wasn't a problem as I had swapped
out the auto hubs for Warn manuals. But on my '93, I have the auto hubs
again. So the question is - is there any way to lock just the hubs (yes, I
know - installing manuals will achieve this, but it's not in the cards right
now), or do I need to put it in full 4wd for a short straight-line drive?
(I have the pushbutton touch-drive).

- --Chris
1993 Bronco XLT (302/E4OD)
1990 Mustang LX (302/AOD/4.10 rear)

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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 09:15:21 -0700
From: Rick Hunt
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer

Mike,

Sorry bud, but I can't offer you much sympathy. Try this one on for size, and
see if it doesn't make you feel just a little bit better...

One Sunday afternoon I was pulling my 13,000 lb. 5th Wheel back from the big
lake, about 160 miles south of here. The elevation change from the lake to here
was a climb of 1/4 mile over the duration of the trip. And of course the wind
was blowing ferociously straight out of the north.

I was pulling with an '87 F250 HD SC, 460 (Carb.) w/Auto., and 4.11 gears - a
monster towing rig, I thought. My gpm (that's gallons per mile) was so bad I
had to stop and refuel 30 miles out from home, 'cause I was down to my last 1/4
tank on the second tank (filled up before I left the lake). THAT'S A WHOPPING
4.5 MPG (almost). And forget the 70 mph stuff... I was lucky to clear 50 on
that trip.

I know the PowerStroke guys will have fun with this one (not too much, I hope).
BTW, I BLEW by a couple of Dodge/Cummins rigs along the way.

Later,

Rick
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 09:15:48 -0600
From: Jeff Fisher
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Clutch Job & Tranny problem

Geofrey:

Your problem may not be the same as mine but a simple check of your
clutch linkage may be in order and might save you a little work (for now
anyway).

I posted the following earlier, it is worth a look in your case.

Please excuse the repeat to those that have read this already......

84 F-250 XLT, 4WD, 460, 4 sp manual.

Wrote a while back about my clutch acting up and finally got around to
changing out all the clutch components, lots of fun was had by all.

Initially the problem was that pressing the clutch pedal never fully
disengaged the clutch and the pedal did not return fully after being
actuated.

Swapped out all the clutch components only to have it do the exact same
thing!!! Damn, gotta hate when that happens. Call me a numbskull but
this method of trouble shooting led me to believe it was a problem with
the hydraulic actuating system... Looking at the linkage I found it very
well worn, causing the master cylinder rod to not fully actuate.
Searching through a junk yard I found out that the newer trucks came
with an adjustable master cylinder push rod to help remedy this problem
by allowing you to make up for worn components.

Lesson to learn from this is to check your clutch linkage for wear. In
particular look at the point where the master cylinder push rod connects
to the clutch linkage (it's located to the right of the steering column
inside the cab). I would pull the pin, take the rod off, inspect the
plastic bushing and replace it if it looks worn. Easy and cheap
insurance to prevent future problems. I will now keep and eye on this
point and keep it greased. I replaced the plastic bushing with some
brass shim material, I'll see how this holds up for me.

Hope this helps...

Jeff
- --
\|//

================o00o==(_)==o00o================
No matter where you go.. There you are...
======================== 0ooo. ================
.oooO ( )
( ) ) /
\ ( (_/
\_)
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 11:51:20 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer

KSMIKE aol.com wrote:
>
> I have a 96 Ford with a 5.8 engine and auto transmission. It gets 15 mpg solo
> and 7.5 mpg pulling my 7,000 # travel trailer at 70mph. It seems to me that
> the mpg pulling the trailer is lower than it should be. I have used two almost
> identical trucks to pull this trailer with the same mpg result. I was just
> curious what other members of the list were getting with a similar rigs.

Thats funny we were just talking about this on the Lightning list and
guess what your mileage seems to be right on target! SORRY!
Chris
94 Lightning#381
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 09:20:41 PDT
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clutch Job & Tranny problem

I had never done a clutch job before jumping into mine. Other than
waiting for parts, it went pretty easy. The one problem I had was the
little pins between the bellhousing and the block. They were stuck
pretty good (but what do you expect when you put aluminum and steel
together...) You probably have the easy-to-adjust mechanical linkage so
it should be easy as well. As far as the napa clutch, I am happy with
it, and it was only half as much as the centerforce. Be careful with
the bearing cap that holds the stick in the tranny, it is EASY to screw
it up. I found it easier to get a friend to help put it in.

Casey
83 Ford F-250

From: Geoffrey Schrag
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Clutch Job & Tranny problem

It looks like the clutch just went out on my 80' Bronco. I was
expecting this to happen soon, but can't figure out why it didn't happen
during the 1400 mile trip I took last week!! Pedal pressure necessary
to
disengage clutch had been increasing and I recently noticed that when
letting up on the clutch pedal the pedal slowly returned to the original
position. I can only get the tranny to shift into 4th and rev. It
appears
that clutch is no longer disengaging when I press down on the pedal.
I've
never done this before so if anyone has any advice that might make it go
easier I'd really appreciate it. I don't think I can afford to have
this
done around here.
Also I've thought about buying a high-perf (centerforce?)
clutch-Just
wondering if anyone has any recommendations
One, other thing since I bought the truck I've noticed that
sometimes
when I shift into reverse I hear a clang or clunk-just wondering if this
could be a BIG problem?

Thanks Again,

Geof Schrag
gcs fw.umn.edu
immobile 80' Bronco
351M, 4sp

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 10:47:43 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Octane

>From: lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M Radecki)
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Octane
>
>snip
>
>but in section 7.3 They said:
> Conventionally, enrichment for maximum power
>air-fuel ratio is used during full throttle operation
>to reduce knocking while providing
>better driveability [38]. An average increase of
>2 (R+M)/2 ON is required
>for each 1.0 increase (leaning) of the air-fuel ratio
> [111]. If the mixture
>is weakened, the flame speed is reduced,
>consequently less heat is converted
>to mechanical energy, leaving heat in the cylinder
>walls and head, potentially inducing knock. It is
>possible to weaken the mixture sufficiently
>that the flame is still present when the inlet valve
>opens again, resulting in backfiring.
>
>...which would seem to support the hypothesis
>that "octane" can influence the combustion speed,

Yo Paul:

The section you referred to is describing the various factors that affect
an engine's octane requirement, one of which is changing the mixture (i.e.,
fuel/air ratio).

The change in combustion flame speed that the authors refer to is caused by
the change in mixture, not octane. The reason that a higher octane number
would be required under such conditions is because of the heat that is
retained in the cylinder head and walls as a result of the flame properties
caused by a leaner mixture. Additional heat retained in the combustion
chamber can induce knocking, which higher octane fuel is more resistant to.
Thus, changing the mixture so as to cause combustion flame differences
might well affect the engine's octane requirement.

As you can tell from reading this entire section 7, the various factors
that determine an engine's octane requirement are rather complex and many
different factors interact w/ each other.

It is also worth noting that the pre-ignition knocking caused by overly
advanced spark timing (or possibly by excess heat in the combustion
chambers) is not the same as the spontaneous autoignition knocking which
occurs after the spark event but before the flame front reaches the end
gases involved. Even though the apparent symptoms are similar (i.e.,
knocking or pinging), the actual causes and chemical mechanisms are
different. However, both of these phenomena can aggravate (or cause) the
other.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 12:23:27 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clutch Job & Tranny problem

> From: Geoffrey Schrag
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Clutch Job & Tranny problem
>
> It looks like the clutch just went out on my 80' Bronco. I was
> expecting this to happen soon, but can't figure out why it didn't happen
> during the 1400 mile trip I took last week!! Pedal pressure necessary

Geof,
I sent the entire procedure to the list in either August or September.
Look up in the archives, if you can't find it then I can retype it again.
Like Casey, I bought mine from NAPA and it works fine. NAPA
carries good quality parts. That is my main parts store now for inportant
piece parts. :-) The one thing I really wanted was to change my 10"
disc to the larger 11", but they did not have any and I had to finish
the job. You may search in the archives for " clutch " or " rear main
seal ". The rear main seal is just one step farther and the part only
costs ~$5.00. I had to take my transmission off twice in 3 weeks
because I didn't change out that seal. My very first time was because
of the clutch/pressure plate and two weeks later my seal went leaky,
leaky(technical term). :-) You may want to consider this if you access
the rear main seal through the flywheel on the camshaft. Like I said I can
repost if you don't find it. I will also suggest you change your pilot
bearing and pilot bushing for a couple more dollars while its
apart. Also make sure you spray the crossmember bolts down the
night before with " RUST EATOR ", but still have a breaker bar
on hand. Also, make sure you get long alignment bolts for when
you start putting the tranny back together. They save a hell of a
lot of time. Well, if you got questions, we're here. :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 12:20:05 -0500
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Steering problems

Subject: FTE 80-96 -

This reply may be a little late but I once saw a bad wheel bearing cause
this. (In this case it would be the right front). If this is the cause, it
requires urgent attention.
David Anderson

> When I'm driving I'll hear a rubbing noise from the front and then
> the wheels will shift to the right and I'll be fighting the steering
> wheel for control. At first it only happend when I would turn right and
> then later on it would happen when I was just driving down the road.


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 12:53:04 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Locking of hubs...

Ferino, Chris wrote:

> out the auto hubs for Warn manuals. But on my '93, I have the auto hubs
> again. So the question is - is there any way to lock just the hubs (yes, I
> know - installing manuals will achieve this, but it's not in the cards right

You got it. :-)



> now), or do I need to put it in full 4wd for a short straight-line drive?
> (I have the pushbutton touch-drive).

I don't think thats possible with everything being engaged
electronically or with vacuum.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 11:19:53 -0700
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Just no fun to drive

> I'm trying hard to enjoy driving my '90 F150, 300 I6, E4OD, but ever
>since I bought it last fall with 95K miles it's had this nagging
>driveability problem. At this point I don't even know if it's fuel or
>ignition, so I turn to you all for suggestions.
> 1. To cold start an EFI engine you're supposed to just turn the key
>without touching the gas and let the computer manage the fast idle. If I do
>this it just sputters and dies. So I use the throttle to keep it running
>for the first minute or so. After the first minute, and any time the engine
>is warm, the idle is perfect; very smooth, correct RPM. So this cold start
>thing is just like a carburated engine without a choke. All warm starts are
>fine, a little fast idle then settles down.
> 2. During part throttle acceleration there is a miss, sometimes to
>the point of bucking. This happens when the engine is cold and most of the
>time when warm. Heavy to full throttle acceleration is smooth with plenty
>of power.
> 3. Lastly is the off-idle hesitation or flat spot. Just sitting at
>a stop with a perfect idle I never know when I'll get a big sag when I ease
>onto the gas. This is probably the most annoying problem.
> Now, what's been done so far? This truck is in very good condition,
>basically un-messed with, nothing jury rigged. Thermostat replaced, coolant
>temp sensor checked (hot and cold), Air Inlet temp sensor and TPS checked,
>Oxg sensor inspected, EGR valve replaced, spark plugs checked, cap OK, wires
>replaced, timing and advance correct, clean air filter, new fuel filter, one
>use of Techron cleaner no help (either tank, same problems), no computer
>codes.
> The weird thing about all this is that if the truck sits for a few
>days, cold start is perfect. It's even smooth and responsive while cold but
>once it warms up, back to lean balky running. Early on I cleaned the Idle
>Air Bypass valve which seemed to help everything for a few days. Several
>months later I cleaned it again, no help. EGR valve was replaced because I
>put a hole in the diaphragm while checking it. I did find by experiment
>that getting rid of EGR action (plugging the vacuum line) helps the part
>throttle miss some, (I guess the mixture is a little richer). Exhaust
>always seems lean and I get a slightly low to normal 15 mpg overall. I
>considered an intake vacuum leak or dirty injectors but not with a smooth
>idle. I have not checked the fuel pressure yet. As you can tell I'm all
>over the place, not even focused on fuel or ignition problems yet and am out
>of ideas. Sorry for the long post but I wanted to accurately state the
>facts in hopes of some good suggestions.
>Thanks, David Anderson

I recently had these exact same symtoms with my '88 302. (except for #4)
Refused to idle when cold, had a serious hole when stepping on the
accelerator, and bucked like a horse when trying to cruise down the road
(heavy throttle OK).

I went over all the transducers with my multimeter. They all checked out.
After 2 weeks of pissing around and going nowhere, I took it a
shop(independant).

The problem: defective MAP sensor.

(i hadn't check this sensor because it requires a vacuum pump/guage and
frequency counter to test which i don't have)

cost of repairs: 1 - TPS $70 which i blindly replaced in hopes of fixing
problem
(cdn. $) 1 - MAP sensor $140 plus $40 lab.

Due to the constant restarting I had to do in order get going in the
morning, I killed my battery so I ended up having to get a new one of those
as well. But I guess it was time considering I still had the factory
original at 10yr/100Km.

mark ponsford


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 19:19:26 -0400
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:1985 351W miss/some fouled some not

yesterday i wrote i need help. ive got access to shop books from the
library, and im still if not more stumped.
today i took the plugs out for inspection. half were coated with the sooty
carbon buildup, and the other half
looked like they just came out of the box. i cleaned them up and checked
the gaps at .44, and put the fouled ones in where the good ones came out.
read the books rerouted the plug wires, cleaned up the dist. cap and
rotor button, tapped up all exposed wiring, same result.
why is this happening only when its cold out? should i start runnning one
range hotter plug in the winter and
the factory recommended in summer? im willing to try pouring water into
the carb. and at a fast idle, steam
clean the carbon off the cilinder walls and valves. before i do something
stupid, ill keep picking your brains
and eventually get it running smoother.
help
mike p.
pmbaker your-net.com

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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 20:07:43 EDT
From: Kbeverwein aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:FTE 80-96-Fuel or Ignition problem

Randy (Brew)

Thanks for the info will try that.

later,
Brian
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 22:51:44 EDT
From: BGar02167 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Door buzzer and front diff(damage did I do)

My door buzzer was staying on and I finally figured out that the door side
was bent in slightly and I couldn't adjust it enough to make contact.

I lost the thread on this because of the ten mile long octane
debate.(download)
Someone said that it will hurt to use the transfer lock w/out locking the
hubs.
I have wondered about this because I enjoyed the use of 2L on my full-time
trucks on hard surface.
Brian G
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 23:16:27 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer

Mike,
That's not bad considering you're doing 70. And if you did it in
three similar rigs and came up with the same mpg, then I'd say you're
right on. I get about 8-9 w/my '87 351W pulling my 2500 # camper.

Later,
Randy (Brew)

KSMIKE aol.com wrote:
>
> I have a 96 Ford with a 5.8 engine and auto transmission. It gets 15 mpg solo
> and 7.5 mpg pulling my 7,000 # travel trailer at 70mph. It seems to me that
> the mpg pulling the trailer is lower than it should be. I have used two almost
> identical trucks to pull this trailer with the same mpg result. I was just
> curious what other members of the list were getting with a similar rigs.
>
> Mike
>
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 20:23:11 PDT
From: "Jorge Ramirez"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rear Diff questions/info

I sent this out a while back and I got a response, but, not an answer

Hello list....

I have also considerd switching to synth rear diff lube, BUT, Here is
what I found. I have a 1993 F150 5.0L/AOD/3.55 NON lim slip and 83K
miles on it, and both the Haynes manual and the owners manual say to use
HYPOID oil, with a specific Ford SPEC # (which I don't have in front of
me). I looked at the bottles at the auto parts stores and I found that
the CASTROL HYPOY-C has the Ford SPEC #.
I found that none of the synth gear lubes that I looked at have that
part number, that scares me. I don't know the difference between HYPOID
oil and XYZ brand of gear lube (can someone please clarify this for the
list)other than the viscosity factor.
So, whats the deal, can we SAFELY use a synthetic lube or are we married
to HYPOID oil???

TIA,


Jorge E. Ramirez


______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 00:29:30 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: T-shirt design vote

We have 7 entries for the t-shirt contest on the web
site. You can view them at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/tshirt.html

Be patient, it will take a while to load them all. Some
of the designs are rough sketches. The concept is as
important as the design.

The top of this page will have a link to our voting
center. The vote lasts two weeks. All runner-ups will
receive a token of our appreciation in a few days after
the vote via the postal service. If you sent an entry
in, please email me at kpayne mindspring.com your
mailing address.

First prize is the prize pack mentioned last month. Its too
late for me to look it up what 1st prize is so I'll announce
that tomorrow.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 00:27:59 -0500
From: "BigRed"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer

I'd say you're doing good too considering I was lucky to get 8.5 with my 87
302 not pulling anything. Then I pulled it apart and found a broken skirt
and a hole in another piston so maybe that had something to do with it. Even
before that I was only getting around 10 or so. I do know a guy with a 460
pulling 3500# getting 12 mpg going 70 mph in a 3/4 ton I thought that was
pretty good.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Randy
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 10:39 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 Fuel Mileage, Pulling Trailer


>Mike,
>That's not bad considering you're doing 70. And if you did it in
>three similar rigs and came up with the same mpg, then I'd say you're....


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