>From kpayne ford-trucks.com Mon Oct 5 20:32:47 1998
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 20:32:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list-digest V2 #346
Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Sender: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com


80-96-list-digest Monday, October 5 1998 Volume 02 : Number 346



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Re: F-350 transfer case question
FTE 80-96 - Re: Jacks
FTE 80-96 - Re: What is an E series
FTE 80-96 - Re: FTE 80 96 exhaust......
FTE 80-96 - Re: what is an E-series
Re: FTE 80-96 - Steering problems
FTE 80-96 - 87 ford ranger
FTE 80-96 - Ball Joints and Radius Arms
Re: FTE 80-96 - Perplexing Problem
FTE 80-96 - RE: Trailer hitch questions for '85 F-350
Re: FTE 80-96 - Wire Splice
Re: FTE 80-96 - AOD playing up.
Re: FTE 80-96 - What is an E series
FTE 80-96 - spark failure
FTE 80-96 - RE: Rear end gear ratios
Re: FTE 80-96 - spark failure
Re: FTE 80-96 - Perplexing Problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - spark failure
Re: FTE 80-96 - spark failure
FTE 80-96 - brake warning light on forever
Re: FTE 80-96 - brake warning light on forever
Re: FTE 80-96 - brake warning light on forever
FTE 80-96 - Octane rating for '84 F-150.
Re: FTE 80-96 - brake warning light on forever

=======================================================================

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Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 08:19:59 -0300
From: sbest
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: F-350 transfer case question

From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F-350 transfer case question

>Brad Burge wrote:
>>
>> I have been lurking for a while, but now I have a question.
>> I recently bought a '89 F-350 7.3 diesel 4X4 dually.
>>The transfer case has always been hard to engage and has gotten almost
>>impossible to get into 4wd. Also, now it will not go into 4-low at all.
>>This is the best truck I have ever owned and I want to keep it top
condition.
>>Any thoughts or help will be appreciated. Thanks.
>
>Brad if you have auto locking hubs, you are supposed to back up thenshift the
>transfer case. Have you got auto hubs or manual.
>- --
>Thanks, Rick Wojo

I have a 87 F250 with a similar problem. I dropped into the transmission
shop Friday and noticed they were working on a BW1345 similar to mine.
It jogged my memory to ask about my not being able to engage 4-LOW.
(4-HI works fine for me) Shifter rod problems are common with this
transfer case I am told, detent balls and shafts and sliders stick.

It may be a while before I get at mine (hobby/parts/play truck).
The one in the shop was in for burn-out due to low fluid level. $$$
Watch those leaks...


Steve Best, Nova Scotia, sbest glinx.com
4 wheel drive van page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
Tire chains, camping gear, tools,82 Bronco and some shooting stuff too.







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Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 08:35:58 -0300
From: sbest
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Jacks

>From: headguru microdsi.net (headguru)
>Subject: Re: Jacks
>
>Only reason I would use it for at home work would be to lift the truck high
>enough to stick the jack stands under. I try to avoid crawling around with
>JUST a jack supporting the truck, I always use da jack stands (unless
>changing a tire and don't have them with me)
>
>>I got the 48" at Pep Boys for $50; the 60" for about $65. Note, HiLifts
>>are notoriously unstable if not employed just right. Be careful, and DO
>>NOT get under the truck.
>
>Steve
>87 XLT 5.0 EFI
>Livin in NJ


Egad yes, I never thought to mention don't ever get under the vehicle
when it is up on a highlift jack. They are a very versatile tool but
not very stable at all. Don't even put part of you body at risk under
the vehicle with out blocking the vehicle. One of the most common ways
of getting unstuck is to jack one end of the vehicle up and push the
jack over. It will move the vehicle a couple feet sideways. Imagine if
you were sitting on your butt pulling a tire off as this happened.

I carry the standard jack and a couple 4"x4"x24" blocks and a square
3/4" plywood "mudplate" with the highlift in the Bronco. To change a tire
I chock both sides of the diagnolly opposite tire, loosen off the nuts
and only jack up the corner I am going to change. Had to use the highlift
for the tire flat this summer because of the terrain (bumper on the
ground) but once the corner was up high enough to slide the axle jack
under (by the handle) the axle jack was used to support the axle and
weight taken off the highlift. For the van I actually carry a 3 ton
jackstand with me, but I have the room in that monster.

I have used a borrowed 60" highlift jack to lift and flip cars over
in a junk yard. A great tool but real big. I barely got by on the 36"
but this 48" has proved just fine and easy to handle.

About jackstands, for our trucks buy the heavy duty 3ton jobs.
The smaller 2 ton car stands are not really stable enough at the
full extension that you have to use for a truck.

Cut those cheap sheetmetal stands up and throw them away if you have
them. I watched one buckle and collapse under the weight of a car once.
Luckily nobody was hurt.


Steve Best, Nova Scotia, sbest glinx.com
4 wheel drive van page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
Tire chains, camping gear, tools,82 Bronco and some shooting stuff too.







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Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 08:36:34 -0300
From: sbest
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: What is an E series

>From: "Tony"
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - What is an E series
>
> Hello,
>Sorry if this seems like a silly question but I have been watching this
>group for some time and have seen a lot of references to E150,E250 & E350s.
>We don't have these vehicles in Australia and I would like to know what
>they are. I gather they are some sort of wagon, but I would be interested
>to see one. In Australia, the only large Ford van is the Ford Transit which
>I believe is sourced from the UK. Can anyone direct me to a site where
>there is a picture of one.
>
>Thanks,
>Tony.


Gladly Tony, E refers to the Econoline van and you can see a few pictures
of them modified to 4wd on my webpage. Ford never made them this way.
Too bad.

Steve Best, Nova Scotia, sbest glinx.com
4 wheel drive van page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
Tire chains, camping gear, tools,82 Bronco and some shooting stuff too.







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Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 08:03:11 EDT
From: BGar02167 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: FTE 80 96 exhaust......

In a message dated 10/5/98 3:49:34 AM Pacific Daylight Time, owner-80-96-list-
digest ford-trucks.com writes:


would imagine that Ford in order to keep production costs down would
have kept as much of the original vechicle and add to that! Its hard to
tell though. >>

Hah ha hahahahahhhhahahahahahhah.
Ford never ever ever seemed concerned
at all about making parts able except maybe in the same 6 month period, of
course in the same model.
For example I have three '85 f-250 diesel that have some very different parts.
although the later models are a little better this is still true of Ford.
Good Luck Brian G
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Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 08:10:27 EDT
From: BGar02167 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: what is an E-series

In a message dated 10/5/98 3:49:34 AM Pacific Daylight Time, owner-80-96-list-
digest ford-trucks.com writes:


there is a picture of one.
>>
Search for ' Ford Motor Company' i think you will like the previos late-model
if you like the F-series, because they looked like a snub-nosed F
Brian G
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Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 08:10:05 -0400
From: John Kanyan
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Steering problems

Chad..Is it worse with the front hubs locked in?....John
John Kanyan

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Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 08:42:32 -0400
From: "Gert. Boulette"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 87 ford ranger

I'm looking for a 1987 manual for a Ranger XLT extended cab any idea's as to
where I can find one . I live in Ontario Canada

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Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 09:22:48 -0400
From: "Golly, Scott M"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Ball Joints and Radius Arms

Hey all,

For those who follow the list, I had asked how bad of a job are ball joints
on a 1990 Ford F-150 4x4. Well the job is done. It was an easy job but real
time consuming. I also changed the Radius Arms. For those of you who have
lifted trucks, I had a 4" Rancho lift that worked well but I lost my turning
radius with the extended radius arms and that annoyed me. I started
researching the reangled or bent radius arms and found that everyone now
makes them....EXPENSIVE, $600 for just radius arms that is bull #%$.
Additional research led me to TuffCountry, They sell a reangled radius arm
that allows a 14" wide tire with full factory turning for $329. I was a
little leery but had them send specs. I was convinced that they are
comparable quality so I risked it. The company had them to me in a day.
They looked like great quality. They are slightly smaller outside diameter
but have a larger tube wall thickness. They have more cross member supports
and seem to, in some ways, be better quality than the Ranchos. The design
is better all around. They have an eyelet in the back which seems to allow
greater vertical travel. There are some things that I would have designed
differently but I like them. They installed easily and the ride is smoother
than the old Bayonet style. Long story short, I would recommend the Tuff
Country's (Oh yeah, Lifetime Warranty so no losses), I need an alignment
real bad now though.

Has anyone out there ever installed a Superlift Superrunner steering system
on a truck with a Rancho Lift?????

Scott Golly
Researcher
Battelle Edgewood Operations
(410) 569-0200
fax: (410) 569-0588

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Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 10:13:27 -0400
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Perplexing Problem

Dan,

I might actually be able to help with this one. I had an '84 full-size
Bronco with the 302 which got stuck in what WAS a little pond before the
bottom had washed out. (Shoulda checked it before running through...not a
mistake I'm ever going to make again!) It turned out to be really deep
(over the hood!), and left me with gobs of work to do once it was towed back
to the driveway.
Once I got it running again, I experienced exactly the same symptoms
you're talking about. I was just as stumped, and after quite a while of
only driving within town due to the unpredictability of the vehicle, I
managed to fix it. I replaced the electronic module sitting on the driver's
side fender (at a mechanic's recommendation, which didn't really seem to
improve things at all) and the ignition coils (on a hunch). After that, no
more problems. It ran great for the next year and a half that I had it, at
which time I sold it to a guy who drove it to Florida (from Jersey) and back
without incident.
Hope this helps.

- -Mike

- -----Original Message-----
From: David Roemhild
To: FTE
Date: Sunday, October 04, 1998 6:13 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Perplexing Problem


Hey All,

I have asked questions here before and all of your responses were helpful.
Here's my newest problem and would greatly appreciate any help. I have an
85 Bronco Full-Sized with a 351HO. I was going to work the other morning,
travelling at 65 mph when I lost engine power. There was no response from
the accelerater (that is - the engine did not rev when the accelerater was
pressed). My cruise control was still very much active as I found out when
I went to give it gas and the pedal was to the floor. I also noticed that
the tach was reading zero rpm. I signaled (always important, especially in
this situation) and headed toward the side of the road, all the while
slowing down through no desire of my own. Looking around, I had full
electrical power and the engine was still running since I did have power
steering still. Approx. 5 seconds later, the engine started to respond, the
tach came alive and I was headed on to work...confused, perplexed, and just
plain irritated.

At first, I just shook it off as a quirk since I am planning on replacing
the engine in a month or so, but it happened to me again yesterday. I had
the exact same symptoms, but this time I had a small stutter warning (at 40
mph) then it died (?) on me on entering the highway.

Needless to say, I am hesitant to drive it to work right now. As it stands
I am going to have to drive my old '79 towncar (always good for a few pimp
jokes from my co-workers) back and forth until I can get some direction on a
solution.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Dan Brewer
'85 Bronco
'70 Mark III
'97 Mark VIII
'79 Continental (pimpmobile)

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Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 10:06:35 -0600
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Trailer hitch questions for '85 F-350

Sorry for this late response to your question but I just returned from
vacation.

Check your Wal-Mart again. The Wal-Marts in my area carry an Acme class IV
hitch for $100 that will do your job well. It will fit without moving the
spare tire, unlike several other class IV hitches. Ford, Dodge and Chev do
use the same hitch. Dodge and Chev have pre-drilled holes in their frame
but you will have to drill your Ford frame. Have a sharp inch drill ready
and installation is relatively easy. Don't even consider a class III. I
bent the frame ends on my previous truck with a class III and a stock
trailer full of hay. The class IV has a much longer frame attachment
length.

Larry

>Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 20:09:39 PDT
>From: "Bret Luter" >
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Trailer hitch questions for '85 F-350

>Hey all you digesters.
>I'm looking into a frame mounted trailer hitch for my '85 F350 crew cab,
single rear wheel, 6.9l diesel. I'd like to get the most heavy-duty hitch
>I can get (within reason). I've seen lots of Class III frame hitches (at
Wal-mart even!!) for less than $100 but I'd like some input from those of
>you who've "been there, done that". Most of the Class III "off-the-shelf"
hitches I've seen list lots of different Ford, Ch*vy and D*dge trucks >using
the same exact hitch- Are they really the same??
>I'll be using the truck to tow an open car trailer with a 2500# car on it
anywhere from 300-600 miles at a time AND I'll be using it to haul a
>livestock trailer, loaded + unloaded, shorter distances.
>What about the Class IV hitches I've seen? They look basically the same as
the Class III hitches with extra attachment points to the frame. >Can anyone
recommend a hitch manufacturer website with specific vehicle applications
on-line??
>Thanks to all in advance. Bret Luter, Raleigh, NC..
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Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 09:40:43 -0700
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Wire Splice

>This question is to all you electrical engineers out there:
>
>What is the preferred method for splicing into a wire?
>
>Scotch-Lok connectors are easy ..but are they the preferred method? I'm
>looking for long term reliability and do not want any degradation of the
>wires, especially the one cut into. When you Scotch-Lok into a stranded
>wire, my experience has been that you wind up cutting thru numerous
>strands. Doesn't that have an adverse affect on that wire?
>
>Thanks Walt

I personally don't like the insulation displacement type crimp on
connectors. I find that they get loose, corrode and are generally
unreliable. For tapping into a wire, what I do is find a connector that the
wire feeds to, slide the contact out of that connector, solder a tap wire
onto the crimped portion of the contact and then slide the contact back
into the connector.

If no connectors are available, I'll splice into the wire by removeing an
1/8 inch section of insulation being carefull not to cut any copper, solder
on a tap wire, and then tape it up. If your concerned about moisture
getting into the wires, get out the silicone sealant and goop it up before
taping.

cheers,

Mark Ponsford


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Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 09:59:22 -0700
From: Robert Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AOD playing up.

On the shift point, check the cable that comes in at the back, top of the
throttle body, this is actually the best place (only on AOD) to adjust
shifting.

On fuel cap leak, try replacing it, not aware of anything other than back
pressure that would cause this.

On Rocker covers, have a star point socket set w/ extension,(the center
bolt on passenger side is tough) Try to get a rubber impregnated gasket, it
will hold up better. Take a straight edge and make sure the cover is flat
(over torqueing will warp it).


Bob
86 Bronco XLT 5.0L AOD


At 03:50 PM 10/5/98 +1000, you wrote:
> Hello,
> I am hoping to get an answer from this group regarding my 86 F150 5.0 EFI
>AOD. The AOD has been working OK until the day before yesterday when it
>started skipping in and out of overdrive. I am fairly sure it wasn't going
>from third back to second, just in and out of OD. I could fix it by
>shifting back to Drive and letting the engine rev harder but this is not my
>preferred solution. It seemed to do it more when heading into a wind or
>driving up-hill. I checked the oil level and it was fine. Does anyone have
>any suggestions?
>
> While I have your attention, I have a couple of other problems which
>someone may be able to help me with;
>- One fuel cap leaks fuel. It is the lockable type.
>
>- The rocker cover gasket(s) are leaking. Any tips on how to replace these
>properly. I have heard that there is a wrong way to do this.
>
>Thanks in advance for any advice offered.
>
>Tony.
>
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>
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Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 10:00:39 -0700
From: Robert Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What is an E series

Why Sure!

check out www.ford-trucks.com

Bob


At 04:24 PM 10/5/98 +1000, you wrote:
> Hello,
> Sorry if this seems like a silly question but I have been watching this
>group for some time and have seen a lot of references to E150,E250 & E350s.
>We don't have these vehicles in Australia and I would like to know what
>they are. I gather they are some sort of wagon, but I would be interested
>to see one. In Australia, the only large Ford van is the Ford Transit which
>I believe is sourced from the UK. Can anyone direct me to a site where
>there is a picture of one.
>
>Thanks,
>Tony.
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>
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Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 10:43:07 -0700
From: "Todd Dickson"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - spark failure

Do you know anything about intermittent spark failure possibly related to
the ignition control module? (I have a 1986 F150.) I have experienced
intermittent spark failure occurring both during operation and after
shutdown that lasts from 5 - 40 minutes before spark returns.

- - Todd

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Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 13:42:23 -0500
From: lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M Radecki)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Rear end gear ratios

Steve said:
> Installing a 3.55 gearset
>would cause your 1st gear to wind out even quicker but you might find it

>better to start away in second gear with the lower 3.55 gears.

I wouldn't go quite that far. I have a '94 F150 with the Mazda
5-spd, 3.55 rear gear, and 300ci engine. It is possible to start out in
2nd (I've even done it in 3rd, thinking I was in 1st... oops...) but not
without more clutch riding or lugging than I'm comfortable with. 1st
does indeed wind out early, and overdrive does, too, but you can tow way
more weight than such a light truck has any right to with the 3.55's. I
like 'em.

> You will also have to change
>your speedometer gear ( $15) in most models. I am not sure about a 96.

If your odometer is digital (my '94 is, so I'd imagine your '96
is, too) then you have an electronic speedo/odo which can be recalibrated
by your friendly neighborhood Ford dealer. There is no gear to change
AFAIK, just a computer program. Didn't somebody post the recalibration
procedure a while back? That would make a good tech article for the FTE
site.

lordjanusz juno.com

"Unbreakable toys are good for breaking other toys"

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com
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Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 16:04:41 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - spark failure

I had a bad coil doing this...

- -----Original Message-----
From: Todd Dickson
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, October 05, 1998 1:59 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - spark failure


>Do you know anything about intermittent spark failure possibly related to
>the ignition control module? (I have a 1986 F150.) I have experienced
>intermittent spark failure occurring both during operation and after
>shutdown that lasts from 5 - 40 minutes before spark returns.
>
>- Todd
>
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Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 16:39:23 EDT
From: Kbeverwein aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Perplexing Problem

hey dan,

I had the same problem on my 93 F150, but that was a few months after putting
in a
power chip. It sounds like there is moisture trapped on your wiring harness.
Check the
one out that connects the stuff under the hood to the one going inside the
cab. It may just
be loose.
That was where my power chip plugged in. Even though it had this tar tape
wrapped around it, it still got moisture. Hope you find the problem.

Brian

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Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 15:27:08 -0500
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - spark failure

Todd Dickson wrote:

> Do you know anything about intermittent spark failure possibly related to
> the ignition control module? (I have a 1986 F150.) I have experienced
> intermittent spark failure occurring both during operation and after
> shutdown that lasts from 5 - 40 minutes before spark returns.

I seem to recall that in the early-mid '80s, Ford suffered some problems with
ignition modules. It was when they first started using multi-chip modules in
production. I don't remember which vehicles were effected, or by what year
they had it fixed. '86 seems late to have this problem, and I would've
thought that it would have failed long ago if yours was affected. I wouldn't
rule it out though.

- --
Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------


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Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 14:40:47 -0700
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - spark failure

>Do you know anything about intermittent spark failure possibly related to
>the ignition control module? (I have a 1986 F150.) I have experienced
>intermittent spark failure occurring both during operation and after
>shutdown that lasts from 5 - 40 minutes before spark returns.
>
>- Todd

There was a thread running on one of the ford truck news groups regarding
this. It would appear that the early TFI modules have a problem in that
they will overheat and then stop working. If you coast to the side of the
road and wait a little while, they cool down and you can get going again.

Of coarse, if your driving an automatic, your engine stops dead and you
find yourself rolling down the road with no brakes or steering. (YIKES!!!)

Another one of Ford's better ideas?

Mark Ponsford



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Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 18:45:17 -0400
From: "Michael Redden"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - brake warning light on forever

Hi;
I replaced the master cyl today on my '85 F-150.
Warning light is still on even after I did the following.
Brakes work great, though...

1) Disconnected battery ground cable
2) Disconnected warning light lead at master cyl.
3) Bled new master cyl. and installed it
4) Bled brake system
5) Reconnected warning light lead
6) Reconnected ground cable
7) Chilton said to centralize the proportion valve
by turning on ignition switch to "acc", pressing
brake pedal then turning off switch off. I did that too!

Certainly not an expert at this, but the brakes perform
really good now. Drove for about an hour, real firm pedal, etc...

watsa matta with that warning lite??
(I know, the bulb will eventually burn out)
Thanks for any help

Mike

redden enter.net
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Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 19:30:46 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - brake warning light on forever

Michael Redden wrote:
>
> Hi;
> I replaced the master cyl today on my '85 F-150.
> Warning light is still on even after I did the following.
> Brakes work great, though...
>
[them's the brakes]

>
> watsa matta with that warning lite??
> (I know, the bulb will eventually burn out)
>
hmmm, yeah, that'll do it.

According to the Haynes manual (yeah, I know I should get the FSM... )
paraphrased:

Fill master cylinder and bleed brakes properly.

Block wheels so the truck doesn't roll

Key to On or Accessory. Release parking brake

Place rags under the master cylinder outlet lines to catch any leaking
fluid.

Crack open one outlet line (the one opposite of the uncentered.

Time for an assistant. Have the assistanp press down slowly on the brake
pedal until the light goes out. Then immedeatly stop pushing down and
start holding the pedal where it's at.

If that didn't work, do it with the other brake line.

Refill master cylinder s needed.
Now the assistant must HOLD the pedal and you tighten up the brake line.


- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 20:03:05 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - brake warning light on forever

Hey Mike,
Try disconnecting the pos+ terminal on the battery for 10-15 minutes that
might reset the light.

joe
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 20:25:27 -0400
From: troyw mfi.net (Troy Williams)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Octane rating for '84 F-150.

Hey folks.

The gas prices down here in Ocala, Florida are starting to get back
up there, and personally, I am looking for a way to try and save a
little money, but I don't want to do it at the expense of my engine.

I've got an '84 F-150 equipped with a 302 V-8. I am currently filling
up with 89 octane, but was wondering about the 87. Is it safe to
use on this engine, or would I be better off paying a little more for
the 89? I am afraid to a fill up with the 87 since I am afraid of
messing up the engine. If someone could fill me, or give me a
good place to look to try and find this information, I would
appreciate it. Thanks.

You might be a redneck if... Your hood ornament used to be a bowling
trophy. - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mfi.net/~troyw
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 20:28:49 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - brake warning light on forever

At 06:45 PM 10/5/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi;
>I replaced the master cyl today on my '85 F-150.
>Warning light is still on even after I did the following.
>Brakes work great, though...
>
>1) Disconnected battery ground cable
>2) Disconnected warning light lead at master cyl.
>3) Bled new master cyl. and installed it
>4) Bled brake system
>5) Reconnected warning light lead....


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