>From kpayne ford-trucks.com Fri Oct 2 15:02:39 1998
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 15:02:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list-digest V2 #342
Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Sender: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com


80-96-list-digest Friday, October 2 1998 Volume 02 : Number 342



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Re: hesitation
FTE 80-96 - 350 compared to 350 Dually
Re: FTE 80-96 - Bad Gauge Reading with Dual Fuel Tanks
FTE 80-96 - Finder flares
FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-Steering problems
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-Steering problems
RE: FTE 80-96 - Cheap 100HP
FTE 80-96 - Wheel Angle
RE: FTE 80-96 - replace 1996 F-150 front spring w/ F-250 front spring?
RE: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Angle
RE: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Angle
Re: FTE 80-96 - Steering problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - 350 compared to 350 Dually
FTE 80-96 - Wire Splice
RE: FTE 80-96 - B&M ShiftPlus
FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96: Details on trucks?
Re: FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96: Details on trucks?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Wire Splice
Re: FTE 80-96 - Cheap 100HP
Re: FTE 80-96 - Wire Splice
RE: FTE 80-96 - Cheap 100HP

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 08:29:40 -0400
From: "jerrypurkis"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: hesitation

- -----Original Message-----
From: jerrypurkis
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, October 02, 1998 8:26 AM
Subject: hesitation


i thought i'd throw this info out in case somebody has the same problem
i have a
86f250 w/351/4brl and when you would go around the corner and hit the
gas
it would fall flat did a little checking and found that there are 2
elect/vac sensors
1-front part of the carb 1-back prart of the carb they are $14.95 each
at the dealer
now she goes around corners fine and accel. fine just thought i would
let everyone
know.. have a safe ford weekend jerry..

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 06:52:12 -0700
From: "Jim Lohse"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 350 compared to 350 Dually

I bought a 96 350 Dually 460, Auto. for my Lance Camper. Is their a
difference between the 350 and the 350 Dually?


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Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 09:49:42 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Bad Gauge Reading with Dual Fuel Tanks

Hey Guys,
I have an 89 e-250 van that has a problem with the front tank,after i fill the
tank the gauge drops to empty after driving about 10 miles. the problem is the
float in the tank gets pinholes in it and fills up with fuel , losing its
boyancy and causing it to drop.

Make the tank empty, dissconnect the fuel lines to that tank, drop the tank.
then on top of tank you will see a ring you have to take a screwdriver
carefully and tap the sleeve for the ring to unscrew, once you do that the
whole assembly low pressure fuel pump and float assembly will come right out.
its not that hard of a job and you will save alot of $$$$$$$$$ if you do it
yourself. good luck

Joe
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Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 09:47:46 -0500
From: "palspaugh"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Finder flares

Does anyone have any suggestions on finder flares? Like what companies
offer quality products, and easy installations.

- -
Regards,

Peter Alspaugh

W.H.Linder & Associates, Inc.
3330 W. Esplanade Ave.
Metairie, La. 70002
(504) 593-5523
alspaugh_p metairie.whlinder.com

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Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 10:45:59 EDT
From: BFunk33 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-Steering problems

Original:

From: "Chad A. Dietrich"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Steering problems

I hate to ask this type of question, but as always it doesn't act up
when I take it to the shop. So I'm hoping that someone else has heard of
a problem like this.

When I'm driving I'll hear a rubbing noise from the front and then
the wheels will shift to the right and I'll be fighting the steering
wheel for control. At first it only happend when I would turn right and
then later on it would happen when I was just driving down the road.
Everything would be going fine then I would hear the rubbing noise and
feel a shap pull to the right. My tie rods are all new and I have a
rebuilt steering sector that only has 1000mi on it. Could worn ball
joinst cause it? Could a rotor or somthing be loose?
Thank you,
Chad >>

I'd bet money (which I don't have ;-) ) that this is in the recirculating ball
unit itself. Dodge trucks are prone to this, but it can happen in any
individual unit. The rubbing noise is a valve(s) chattering, and the pull is
the result of one staying open.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 11:18:46 -0400
From: Ethan Vos
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-Steering problems

It may be some contamination in the fluid that is flowing through the pinion of the gear though.

Take a sample of the fluid and drain it through a coffee filter. See if there are any particles in the fluid.

If so, drain and flush the system well and refill it with power steering fluid, NOT ATF!

Ethan


- -----Original Message-----
From: BFunk33 aol.com
Sent: Friday, October 02, 1998 10:46 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-Steering problems

Original:

From: "Chad A. Dietrich"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Steering problems

I hate to ask this type of question, but as always it doesn't act up
when I take it to the shop. So I'm hoping that someone else has heard of
a problem like this.

When I'm driving I'll hear a rubbing noise from the front and then
the wheels will shift to the right and I'll be fighting the steering
wheel for control. At first it only happend when I would turn right and
then later on it would happen when I was just driving down the road.
Everything would be going fine then I would hear the rubbing noise and
feel a shap pull to the right. My tie rods are all new and I have a
rebuilt steering sector that only has 1000mi on it. Could worn ball
joinst cause it? Could a rotor or somthing be loose?
Thank you,
Chad >>

I'd bet money (which I don't have ;-) ) that this is in the recirculating ball
unit itself. Dodge trucks are prone to this, but it can happen in any
individual unit. The rubbing noise is a valve(s) chattering, and the pull is
the result of one staying open.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 10:43:59 -0500
From: "palspaugh"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Cheap 100HP

Bryan,
Thanks for the good info. I needed a place to start and you have given me
that. I might have to start with option 2 though. For one I don't have alot
of room to store a motor, and bolt-ons are up my alley (technically
speaking). I have very little experiance with engine work.

I have been thinking about a shift kit for awhile. I have recently read
about B&M. They provide a new plate to install in the tranny which doesn't
look that hard or technical. Or maybe opt for one of the electronic switches
on the market. There again I am trying to get alot of info before I jump in
and buy it. Any suggestions?


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Bryan Snyder
Sent: Thursday, October 01, 1998 7:22 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Cheap 100HP


There is NO cheap way of getting 100HP other than nitrous. You can
however get 100HP easily with bolt ons. I figured a couple of routes you
could go. 1.) Find a 86-92 Mustang 5.0 and put that in, it has 225Hp and
300 FT lbs of torque. Quite a bit more than your current engine. You
would however need to use the computer from the car engine and it should
be a very easy swap. GT 5.0 respond very well to bolt ons such as
headers, chips, bigger throttle bodies, K+N's, cat back exausts and high
flow converters etc. 2.) Keep your current engine and use bolt ons such
as bigger manifolds, chip, exaust, throttle body etc. If you went with
number 1 you start out with more and have to buy less but you still have
to buy another engine( most places will take yours as a partial trade.
Number two keeps the engine you have in the truck and ready to use but
you start out with less ponies and have to buy more parts Even little
parts to get 100 more ponies add up very quickly. Also the mustang
engine years I gave you came factory with forged pistons, later ones
came with hyperutectics, so the stang engine will be in a position to
better cope with the added power right from the start. Personally, I
would get the GT engine and add parts as my budget would allow. The
added power of the GT engine compared to yours should keep you amused
until you get more stuff! Also, have you considered a shift kit from a
reputeable maker? One of these alone will usually pick up your trap
speed and time with no other mods and also enhance tranny life and can
be had with out being to harsh and can be installed in an hour or two.

Hope this helps,
Bryan Snyder

______________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 10:55:45 CST
From: "Vickie Morgan"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Angle

I have a 1989 Ford F-250 4x4 with a 7.3 diesel. The front wheels
angle in slightly at the top. It does not seem to affect the
handling, it just looks odd. What causes this and what do I need to
to do to correct the wheel angle?

Vickie Morgan
Faculty Secretary
Jefferson College
1000 Viking Drive
Hillsboro, MO 63050
(314) 942-3000, ext. 331
E-Mail: vmorgan gateway.jeffco.edu

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Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 10:48:53 -0500
From: "palspaugh"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - replace 1996 F-150 front spring w/ F-250 front spring?

Mike,

Thanks for the info. Very much appreciated.

But if I may bother you again, what is a progressive coil?

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Michael Redden
Sent: Thursday, October 01, 1998 3:49 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - replace 1996 F-150 front spring w/ F-250 front
spring?


With the F-250 spring so much stiffer, I imagine it'll do alot more than
just raise up the front end. You might check on a progressive type coil.
I'm sure a company in your area can make a pair up for your needs.

(I have an '85 F-150 that is much more fun to be in without a load
than my '71 F-250 HD. STIFF is the word!)

Also check out the Espo Spring Company.
They've been real helpful on the phone, answering my questions:

http//:www.espo.com

Mike

redden enter.net
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 11:21:36 -0500
From: "palspaugh"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Angle

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Vickie Morgan
Sent: Friday, October 02, 1998 11:56 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Angle


I have a 1989 Ford F-250 4x4 with a 7.3 diesel. The front wheels
angle in slightly at the top. It does not seem to affect the
handling, it just looks odd. What causes this and what do I need to
to do to correct the wheel angle?

Vickie Morgan
Faculty Secretary
Jefferson College
1000 Viking Drive
Hillsboro, MO 63050
(314) 942-3000, ext. 331
E-Mail: vmorgan gateway.jeffco.edu

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 11:40:44 -0500
From: "palspaugh"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Angle

Well I know some of the answer. The angled effect is what they call CAMBER.
If the angle at the TOP is angled IN then you will have what they call
NEGATIVE CAMBER. If the angle at the TOP is angled OUT then you have what
they call POSITIVE CAMBER.

As the vehicles suspension goes through its compression and rebound the
twin I-Beam (these are the two big beams between the tires) causes the tires
to go through the different camber angles (From positive to negative or vice
versa). The reason for this is because the tires will always remain
perpendicular to the I-Beam. Therefore when the truck's suspension is
compressed the pivot point where the two I-Beams are joined, Lowers, and
thus the angle of the I-beam changes. So if the tire and the I-Beam remain
perpendicular then the suspension being compressed will change the tire to a
NEGATIVE CAMBER. The opposite is true of the truck rebounding from
compression through the neutral position (sitting still, no load) the tires
will have POSITIVE CAMBER and then settle to neutral position.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Vickie Morgan
Sent: Friday, October 02, 1998 11:56 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Angle


I have a 1989 Ford F-250 4x4 with a 7.3 diesel. The front wheels
angle in slightly at the top. It does not seem to affect the
handling, it just looks odd. What causes this and what do I need to
to do to correct the wheel angle?

Vickie Morgan
Faculty Secretary
Jefferson College
1000 Viking Drive
Hillsboro, MO 63050
(314) 942-3000, ext. 331
E-Mail: vmorgan gateway.jeffco.edu

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 13:00:06 -0400
From: John Kanyan
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Steering problems

Chad, What year and 2or 4 wheel..maybe I can help if I know a little more.John
John Kanyan

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 13:02:37 -0400
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 350 compared to 350 Dually

- ----------
> From: Jim Lohse
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - 350 compared to 350 Dually
> Date: Friday, October 02, 1998 9:52 AM
>
> I bought a 96 350 Dually 460, Auto. for my Lance Camper. Is their a
> difference between the 350 and the 350 Dually?
>
Well, yes .... the dually has dual rear wheels. And all the required
hardware to support the duals; different hubs front and rear, and a box
with side pods. Outside of that, the trucks are surpassingly similar.
There are a couple of companies out there that will convert your SRW to
DRW. They add spacers to the hubs, install side pods, and install the
dually wheels. I'm not a fan of the spacer idea, but I drove a 250HD SC
7.3 with a Centurion dually conversion for 5 years without any problems.

Of course tires cost 50% more, but while towing or carrying heavy loads the
truck is much more stable.



>
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Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 10:31:30 -0700
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Wire Splice

This question is to all you electrical engineers out there:

What is the preferred method for splicing into a wire?

Scotch-Lok connectors are easy ..but are they the preferred method? I'm
looking for long term reliability and do not want any degradation of the
wires, especially the one cut into. When you Scotch-Lok into a stranded
wire, my experience has been that you wind up cutting thru numerous
strands. Doesn't that have an adverse affect on that wire?

Thanks Walt
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Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 13:29:18 -0400
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - B&M ShiftPlus

I have had one in my truck (my s-10 not my f-150) and has worked great. I
have had no problems at all and it does what it claims. I've talked to
others who had them before I got mine and they've had no problems either.
Sorry to here that you had bad luck with yours. Just curious, did your trans
start having problems as soon as you put it in or did it develop later on? I
would hate for it to fry mine down the road.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 12:43:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: Judith Grunberger
Subject: FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96: Details on trucks?

Excuse me if I'm asking something stupid, but I need some help...

I've fallen in love with the F150 -- my friend has an '89 XLT Lariat, and
I've driven it numerous times. Now that my car is crapping out, I want to
buy one myself.

But I don't know much about the details -- what's available, models, etc.
I've look all over the web, and can't really find anything, and am leery
of going to a dealer for fear they're going to try to push me into buying
one thing or another when I don't actually know what's out there.

Now, I know in general what I want.
* manual transmission
* bench seats
* extended cab
* short (regular?) bed

(and then of course minor issues like I don't want *white*, and running
boards would be nice... and 4x4 vs. 4x2 makes not a whit of difference to
me)

But, I also need to know:

* what engines are available with a manual transmision, and which ones
would be best for he kind of driving I do? (commuting, hauling crap
around, occasional long road trips, sometimes driving through mud and
other crap)

* what's the difference between XL, XLT, and Lariat trim? What's an XLT
Lariat?

* what's all the Ford marketing terminology mean? (SuperCab, FlareSide,
StyleSide, etc.)

* what years were new model years? I am particularly attracted to the old
body style -- I like the squared off look rather than the sculpted,
aerodynamic look. Also, I like the dual gas tanks, and I haven't seen any
of the new body styles with dual gas tanks. (I also probably can't afford
a new truck.)

* what are reasonable prices? Is there a blue-book site I can find on the
internet?

I feel so bad for asking -- I'm sure this is elementary stuff for many of
you, but I can't seem to find what I need to know so I can avoid being
snookered. Is there a FAQ I can look at? Are there any good web resources?
Can any of you help me?

Trust me, I have great love for these trucks. My friend moved to Texas and
I miss my baby...

Thanks
Judy

- --
Judith Grunberger * jcookson io.com | "no Bad Religion song can
Home page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.io.com/~jcookson | make your life complete"
RAB FAQs: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.faqs.org/faqs/bodyart/ | Bad Religion, No Direction

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 11:06:27 -0700
From: johny
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96: Details on trucks?

I'll leave the detailed answers to others, but
try:
www.ford.com - for new product information, terminology is basically the same
for old and new trucks.

www.edmunds.com - for product and invoice pricing
www.kbb.com - for product and invoice pricing.

If you are looking for used, edmunds, and kbb, have used car sections.

Edmunds has a good tutorial on how to buy, and how to not
be pushed around/taken advantage of. Sections on purchasing
new and used information.

If you take the time to study, and are not in a rush, you'll do just fine.

good luck,

- -john

Judith Grunberger wrote:

> Excuse me if I'm asking something stupid, but I need some help...
>
> I've fallen in love with the F150 -- my friend has an '89 XLT Lariat, and
> I've driven it numerous times. Now that my car is crapping out, I want to
> buy one myself.
>
> But I don't know much about the details -- what's available, models, etc.
> I've look all over the web, and can't really find anything, and am leery
> of going to a dealer for fear they're going to try to push me into buying
> one thing or another when I don't actually know what's out there.
>
> Now, I know in general what I want.
> * manual transmission
> * bench seats
> * extended cab
> * short (regular?) bed
>
> (and then of course minor issues like I don't want *white*, and running
> boards would be nice... and 4x4 vs. 4x2 makes not a whit of difference to
> me)
>
> But, I also need to know:
>
> * what engines are available with a manual transmision, and which ones
> would be best for he kind of driving I do? (commuting, hauling crap
> around, occasional long road trips, sometimes driving through mud and
> other crap)
>
> * what's the difference between XL, XLT, and Lariat trim? What's an XLT
> Lariat?
>
> * what's all the Ford marketing terminology mean? (SuperCab, FlareSide,
> StyleSide, etc.)
>
> * what years were new model years? I am particularly attracted to the old
> body style -- I like the squared off look rather than the sculpted,
> aerodynamic look. Also, I like the dual gas tanks, and I haven't seen any
> of the new body styles with dual gas tanks. (I also probably can't afford
> a new truck.)
>
> * what are reasonable prices? Is there a blue-book site I can find on the
> internet?
>
> I feel so bad for asking -- I'm sure this is elementary stuff for many of
> you, but I can't seem to find what I need to know so I can avoid being
> snookered. Is there a FAQ I can look at? Are there any good web resources?
> Can any of you help me?
>
> Trust me, I have great love for these trucks. My friend moved to Texas and
> I miss my baby...
>
> Thanks
> Judy
>
> --
> Judith Grunberger * jcookson io.com | "no Bad Religion song can
> Home page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.io.com/~jcookson | make your life complete"
> RAB FAQs: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.faqs.org/faqs/bodyart/ | Bad Religion, No Direction
>
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Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 14:12:20 -0400
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Wire Splice

Electrical engineers?? hey, that's me!
Ummm .... I don't get into splicing wires very often, but ...
I hate those clip-on thingys. Sure they are quick, and almost always work.

BUT ... they leave the connection open to the air and water (and salt),
very bad for trailer harnesses. They don't make a full diameter connection
with the wire, meaning that the connection will be a heating point if the
circuit is subjected to near full load. Yes they do tend to break strands
sometimes, which leads to more contact heating
problems. They are not recommended at all for solid wire. And besides,
there should be no solid wire on your truck. Using this type of connection
on any type of circuit where vibration is present will lead to breakage at
the connection point.

When I'm installing trailer kits on my trucks I like to use those T
connection kits for the signal lamps. When I'm splicing wires for running
lights and ground I solder and tape the connections. If the connection
will be out in the weather, I use a rubber tape first, then cover with
vinyl tape. Also to keep corrosion out of the trailer connections, I apply
copper based grease to all the contacts.
- ----------
> From: Posluszny, Walt (POSL)
> To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Wire Splice
> Date: Friday, October 02, 1998 1:31 PM
>
> This question is to all you electrical engineers out there:
>
> What is the preferred method for splicing into a wire?
>
> Scotch-Lok connectors are easy ..but are they the preferred method? I'm
> looking for long term reliability and do not want any degradation of the
> wires, especially the one cut into. When you Scotch-Lok into a stranded
> wire, my experience has been that you wind up cutting thru numerous
> strands. Doesn't that have an adverse affect on that wire?
>
> Thanks Walt
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Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 13:15:29 -0500
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Cheap 100HP

For those looking for more horses from the 5.0L, check this article:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.g50mc.org/tech/bop.html

Now, I don't think this would be cheap, but they got about 75HP out of bolt-ons.
Maybe one can do better, but these people had a dyno to verify their changes on, and
to tell if some changes were improving on, or taking away from, improvements from
previous changes. Unless you have access to this kind of equipment, it is difficult
to discern the difference.

If you follow the recipe in the article, you should do as well, but how this
combination will work in a truck is another question. If any of the modifications
compromise your low-end torque to get horsepower at high engine speed, your 1/4 mile
time (or time to freeway on-ramp speed) may suffer. The heavier the vehicle, the
more low-end torque you need to launch...and the last time I checked, my F150 SC had
>1000 LBS over a mustang! If you subscribe to the PERF list, you will find most of
those guys talking big blocks (or stroked big blocks 8^0). I've been lurking on that
list for a few months now, and have seen very very little mention of the lowly 5.0L.

Since I have a 5.0L, I have been struggling with the notion of what to do to mine. I
read of a guy (think it was in MM&FF a few months ago) who was doing low 15 second
1/4 miles with modifications similar to the above article, with the exception of a
TFS head. That's laughable for a Mustang, but for a truck with a small-block, I
think that would be acceptable.

Good luck. If anyone has any proven results with the modifications listed--or any
alternatives--please provide some feedback. Thanks.

- --
Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 13:55:34 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Wire Splice

Posluszny, Walt (POSL) wrote:

> This question is to all you electrical engineers out there:
>
> What is the preferred method for splicing into a wire?
>
> Scotch-Lok connectors are easy ..but are they the preferred method? I'm
> looking for long term reliability and do not want any degradation of the
> wires, especially the one cut into. When you Scotch-Lok into a stranded



Walt,
Excuse me, but I will add something even though I only have a Compter
Science Degree. :-)

To completely secure the connection from the environment aspects, you
can put the wires together then coat the connnection, as well as, the other
exposed portions of the wire with liquid tape. This is a moisture barier
against the elements. Then you can tape it with heavy duty vinyl tape
or use heatshrinking tubing(that works pretty slick). Don't forget to put
the
heatshrink tubing on one of the wires before you put on the liquid tape or
before you solder them :-)

As a matter of fact, you go with the other suggestion and solder, then
liquid tape, then either heatshrink tubing or heavy vinyl tape.

My $0.02. Just thought I would give you some extra options.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 14:03:10 -0500
From: "palspaugh"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Cheap 100HP

Dave,

Thanks alot. I haven't started reading it yet but I can't wait.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of David J. Baldwin
Sent: Friday, October 02, 1998 1:15 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Cheap 100HP


For those looking for more horses from the 5.0L, check this article:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.g50mc.org/tech/bop.html

Now, I don't think this would be cheap, but they got about 75HP out of
bolt-ons.
Maybe one can do better, but these people had a dyno to verify their changes
on, and
to tell if some changes were improving on, or taking away from, improvements
from
previous changes. Unless you have access to this kind of equipment, it is
difficult
to discern the difference.

If you follow the recipe in the article, you should do as well, but how this
combination will work in a truck is another question. If any of the
modifications
compromise your low-end torque to get horsepower at high engine speed, your
1/4 mile
time (or time to freeway on-ramp speed) may suffer. The heavier the
vehicle, the
more low-end torque you need to launch...and the last time I checked, my....


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