>From kpayne ford-trucks.com Thu Oct 1 16:41:27 1998
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 16:41:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list-digest V2 #340
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80-96-list-digest Thursday, October 1 1998 Volume 02 : Number 340



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - 86f250 camper special
FTE 80-96 - Re: Exhaust systems don't last very long
FTE 80-96 - Re: '86 Ranger problem
FTE 80-96 - Re: Changing coolant
Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Ranger problem
FTE 80-96 - '86 Ranger problem
FTE 80-96 - 83 F150 8.8 diff replacement
Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Ranger problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - 83 F150 8.8 diff replacement
FTE 80-96 - Exhaust System Longevity
FTE 80-96 - pivot bearings
Re: FTE 80-96 - 83 F150 8.8 diff replacement
FTE 80-96 - Pre hunting inspection tune up
FTE 80-96 - Re: Exhaust systems don't last very long
FTE 80-96 - replace 1996 F-150 front spring w/ F-250 front spring?
FTE 80-96 - Cheap 100 horsepower for a 1996 2x2 f-150 w/302 and auto trans w/3.55 ratio?
Re: FTE 80-96 - replace 1996 F-150 front spring w/ F-250 front spring?

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 08:15:57 -0400
From: "jerrypurkis"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 86f250 camper special

hello all i wanted to ask this question again i have a 86 f250
with duel tanks when using the rear tank after 5-6gals it drops
to empty any thoughts? thank you jerry
tadpole mwweb.com

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 09:23:21 -0300
From: sbest
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Exhaust systems don't last very long

>From: jdev mitre.org (John DeVincentis)
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Exhaust systems don't last very long
>
>It seems that I have to replace parts of my exhaust system every two years
>or so. Are there different quality exhaust systems out there, or are they
>all the same?
>How about painting it with some hi temp/barbeque paint (rated at 1000
>degrees F)?
>I am open for suggestions. I am considering changing to a shorter exhaust
>system so that there are few parts to maintain.
>
>Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions,
>John Dee
>'92 F150


The original system lasted 8 years on my E350 diesel, I replaced it
with a Mitas system and now the "Y" pipe is gone 2 years later right
according to schedule. Even the lifetime mufflers only last 2 years
in most cases. Maybe there is a reason that the OE pipes cost twice as
much as the franchised places charge for complete installation?


Steve Best, Nova Scotia, sbest glinx.com
4 wheel drive van page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
Tire chains, camping gear, tools,82 Bronco and some shooting stuff too.







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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 09:24:17 -0300
From: sbest
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: '86 Ranger problem

>From: "Bob Johnson"
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Ranger problem
>
>Byran:
>
>I've been fighting a similar problem. Thought I'd tell you what I've tried,
>
>I hate to diagnose/fix anything by throwing parts at it, but each attempted
>fix was based on a reasonable theory of what was wrong (or so I tell
>myself). The stuff I have replaced has all been pretty cheap - shop around.
>The exception was the repair on vacation - almost $500. Ouch. But by that
>time, it would have been OK with me if it had solved the problem.
>
>I am disgusted with the local shops - thieves who seem to know less than I
>do (and that's scary). So I've bought a code scanner - but have not used it
>yet. Also read a post a long time ago from a member who solved a similar
>problem by disconnecting and reconnecting the ECM computer - theory was poor
>connections/corroded terminals. It worked for him - I sorry to admit I
>haven't tried it yet.

>
>Bob


Oh boys do you strike a nerve Bob.
Do I ever get peeved at shop incompetance. I got tired of doing all my
own repairs at one point so I bought a new car and took it back to the
dealer for any work that needed done. It took 4 trips for them to find
what was draining the battery after 3 days, the trunk light. Their fix?
They removed the bulb!!!

I could go on and on but honestly there was not a problem, no matter
how small that the dealership could fix in the first 3 tries. They even
broke a doorhandle off! And then replaced it with a black one to clash
with my my brown interior! After warranty I started doing my own repairs
because I was not going to pay for that incompetance.

I have found that most shops can do routine repair replacement work
fairly well but often fail at diagnostics. If you look around you might
find a guy who excels at some field in your area, he is usually very
busy.

On the road it is worse. I have come to the conclusion I may as well
bring my tools and manuals and do my own repairs while on the road.
A couple times I did not, I was charged $450 to replace a waterpump in
Virginia and they tried to charge me $280 to replace a tie rod end in
Florida but negotiated it down to $150 tax and all. (still too much).
It took 24 hrs to get the waterpump replaced and 4 hours to get the tie
rod end replaced. Cheaper and quicker to do it myself next time.


Steve Best, Nova Scotia, sbest glinx.com
4 wheel drive van page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
Tire chains, camping gear, tools,82 Bronco and some shooting stuff too.







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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 09:25:20 -0300
From: sbest
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Changing coolant

>From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnar?= Huse"
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Changing coolant
>
>Having changed coolant (and radiator) on a VW Transporter diesel (54 hp
>rocket machine), I'm approaching the change on mye E-250 diesel with
>awe. Is there an air bleed valve somewhere on the rear (or front)
>heater, or do I just drain/flush the system and refill?
>
>- -- =
>
>Bj=F8rnar Huse
>=C5lesund, Norway
>Tel. +47 92 45 01 56 =
>
>Fax. +47 70 10 24 31
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://bryggen.bgnett.no/~bjornar
>1 Son, 3 yrs
>1 Groenendael, 4 yrs
>1 1990 Ford E-250 Club Wagon 7.3 diesel, 3.54, E4OD
>1 1994 Ford Escort 1.3
>1 1986 Ford Escort 1.6 Wagon (resurrected)
>Oh, yes, one 1971 wife, too!



After the Transporter you will find the Ford is a breeze.
I had a turbo-diesel Jetta and it would bubble and gurgle for the next week,
I swear. Just drain, flush and fill. Start it up with the cap off, let it
run until the thermostat opens and top it up. Put the cap on.

Try to buy coolant specificly for diesels and add the cavitation erosion
protection additive. I used Fleetguard DCA4/DCA65L last time around.
Ford and International have their own types as well.


Steve Best, Nova Scotia, sbest glinx.com
4 wheel drive van page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
Tire chains, camping gear, tools,82 Bronco and some shooting stuff too.







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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 09:43:26 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Ranger problem

Bob Johnson wrote:
>
> Andre,
>
> Thanks for the info. Mine is a 3-wire O2 sensor. Do you know where I should
> check the output? And I suppose it should be about .5 V at idle? Oh great -
> crawling under there while everything is hot
>
With three wires, that probably means you have a heated sensor. These
sensors don't work well til they get up to operating temperatur
(whatever it is) so on startup a heater element is turned on in them.
Check to see which one has 12V just after startup. The other two wires
are the ones you want.


... BTW, how can I tell if my
> little cheapie volt meter is a "high impedance" meter?
>
Usually digital meters are high impedance, analogs, low.


> I cleaned the injectors several times recently - if using Techron and such
> in a couple of tankfulls in succession is what you mean. Is there a way to
> more effectively test/clean those little devils? Looks like a PIA to get
> them out though.
>
You can get a shop to do that. They hook up a pressurised can of
concentrated cleaner to the fuel rail and run the eingine till the can's
empty. Not cheap, though. The cleaner you've added to the fueld (I'm
assuming that's what Techron is) should be ok. Most gasolines now have
some cleaners in them.


> Yeah, you're right. I need to get in there and pull those codes. A little
> skeptical though ... those several shops all tried to pull codes and got
> nothing.
>
Odd. On Mopars, the joke is, if you get code 00, the light's burned out
;-) It's not unusual for the computer to sense no trouble codes. If the
O2 sensor is out of whack, but still responding to enrichment and
leaning, the computer really doesn't know if the reading is accurate or
no, but since there is a response that is more or less what's expected,
it's accepted.

> Think I keep the scanner in the truck - if she acts up when I on
> the road, I can pull over and see what the computer is thinking.
>
The computer should keep track of the codes for a while. I'm a lot more
familiar with the Chrysler setup, but on those, the codes are stored for
some 30 to 50 startups. It would be pretty useless to have a code that
dissapeared immediately.

One possibility is that you have some wiring problems soemwhere. make
sure that all the major grounds are nice and clean and tight. What can
happen is that voltages get messed up. If the computer actually sooses
power very intermittantly (shor little outages), that could explain why
the codes are gone. Disconnecting the power should clear them all. If
the power pails (little 'spikes' of off) while running, things could get
very confused.

Check the wiring. I had a son-of-a-gun of a problem that we finally
traced to insulation chafed off a wire going to a whack of sensors and
actuators.

- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 10:13:57 -0400
From: "Skerrett, Michael"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '86 Ranger problem

On 30 Sep Bob Johnson wrote:

I've been fighting a similar problem. Thought I'd tell you what I've tried,
hope it might help. You didn't say, but I assume you have the 2.9l efi V6 -
my '86 Ranger does.

On my '92 F-150, 5.0L, AOD, X-cab, the engine's computer has a memory it
uses to calculate how the engine should run. Each time I change a sensor or
do something that would change the performance of the engine I always
disconnect power from the computer for about 1 minute to erase its memory.
The manual says you should run your vehicle for about 10 miles on the next
start and try to have an even balance of steady open throttle and city
driving for those first 10 miles. I usually pull over and stop the engine
after the first 10, restart the engine and run another 10 back. It's easy
for me as I have an interstate less than 2 miles from home. The computer
will than remember some number of new driving sessions using them to average
the operation for the engine, with new sessions dropping the oldest into the
bit bucket. I don't know if this will work for you on your Ranger but it
may be a good place to start. Make sure you have everything set up right,
use your scanner to check for codes, and run both the engine off and engine
running diagnostics to be sure the computer thinks it is okay. Then try
removing power (I pull off a battery cable, but alas, then I have to reset
my radio channels). Might help.

Michael S, Also in FL

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 10:17:51 -0400
From: nuke
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 83 F150 8.8 diff replacement

Okay hear goes, I picked up this truck for $800, had 35's on the back and
31's in the front, ( ya I know ouch) I've had both the RUG 4 spd OD tranny
and 208 transfer rebuilt, some damage, the front drive shaft was really
shot, got one at a bone yard, front end looks great, evidence of a front
end accident but the repair looks first rate. I opened the rear and
couldn't get the pinion pin out to push in the axles to remove the c
clamps, I was told the rear is probably shot, clutch tabs missing on one
side. PAW had an 8.8 Motorsport 31 tooth HD limited slip for $250, I
conned my local Ford guy to give it to me for the same. I had to get a
torch to cut out the pin so I could pull the axles and remove the old unit.

I now have my new unit and am getting ready to install it. I was told as
long as I don't mess with the pinion shaft etc this should be a fairly easy
slip in. Ya I know about the tight fit, but I got it out so I assume I can
get it in. I flushed out the housing with mineral spirits real well. I
want to replace the pinion seal. I know I am supposed to measure the
preload rotation resistance with an inch pound torque wrench, and try to
match it when I retighten the new pinion bolt. Should I do this with the
new carrier in place or while I have it removed. I'm thinking with it in
the ring gear will tend to hold the pinion in place so that is the
direction I am leaning. Now for the carrier spacers, mine had them between
the carrier unit and the housing, one side of them are scuffed a little, I
read someone in a rebuild somewhere just turned them around, will this do
or should I get new ones, I think I slip in the new carrier and then wedge
in the spacers. Now I just read in a mag article that the spacers go
behind the bearings before they are pressed onto the new carrier, I'm
hoping that's for another kind of unit. What about all this backlash dial
indicator stuff, don't have one. If I am just bolting in the new carrier
with all the same gear set do I still need to do all that too? Being I am
rebuilding everything I want to do the job reasonably right. Thanks guys.


Rick WoJo... by the way I went to HomeDepot and got a 7" bolt and some
washers and nuts and plan on using my socket for the front hub nut as a
receiver cup to try to press out my pivot bushings. Regular price is about
$8 a piece but I ordered a pair from Energy Suspensions through Pep Boys
for about $20. I work 7 days on 7 off then I am going hunting for 3 weeks
so I might not get to this job for a while, but you never know. thanks
again nuke

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 09:14:13 -0600
From: Dave Armbruster
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Ranger problem

Guys,

I had a similar problem with my '97 Ranger 4.0L, that I finally think I got
solved over the weekend. Mine would sort of surge while at idle or under
very light loads, but when I got it on the highway, it ran fine. I could
watch the tachometer pulsate from regular idle to near stall and back up.
It first happened back in Feb of this year, while under warranty. The
dealer said it was a pinched intake gasket and said he replaced it. It
happened again a cople of weeks ago. Again to the dealer, who said it was
a bad fuel injector (he had graphs to show me). Well, it is no long under
warranty and he wanted $400 to fix it, so I said thank you and shoved on
out the door.

I tore into it, and was all prepared to replace a fuel injector and the
fuel rail to lower intake gasket. During the fix, I noticed that the upper
intake (big plastic air box with a molded "4.0L" on mine) to fuel rail
gasket was not there and the old gasket between the intake manifold and
fuel rail was torn to up, indicating to me that the original dealer never
fixed it. I even found an error in the Ford Service Manuals that the
dealer didn't know about.

Well, to make a short story long, after replacing the bad gasket and
putting in the other required one, the engine runs very smooth, probably
better than even brand new. I originally went through the various ignition
parts trying to figure it out. Also, goes to show that even if the
computer stores a certain code, doesn't always mean it's actually that
part, neither time did the computer show a low manifold vacuum or intake
air pressure problem.

Dave
Denver, CO

>Ugghhh.. I just went through a very similar problem on our 93 Lincoln 4.6. I
>changed the
>plugs, fuel filter, air filter, etc. Ran better but problem showed up again.
>Took it to a
>mechanic who replaced the plug wires and a couple of other things - didn't
help
>- - nothing
>showed up on his diagnostics - no codes showed up on my code scanner either.
>
>Took it to the local Ford garage and had them run diagnostics. Result: plug
>wire for
>#8 cylinder was not on the plug all the way resulting in 'miss under load'.
>Bottom line:
>it now runs great.
>
>Frankly, however, I'm baffled. How could I change all 8 plugs and not get
one
>on all
>the way (the plug wires on the 4.6 give a noticeable 'snap' when they go
on the
>plug)?
>Maybe I can buy that but then how could my mechanic REPLACE all 8 plug wires
>and
>STILL have one not on properly? All I know for sure is that it is fixed now.

>> I own a 1986 V6, automatic with a little over 100,000 miles (206,000 km) on
>> the engine. I am experiencing an intermittent problem that is baffling the
>> mechanics around here.
>>
>> Essentially what happens is that when the engine has warmed up, about 5
>> miles down the highway, it begins repeatedly to hesitate as if momentarily
>> cutting out. This will continue for 20 miles at which time I have arived at
>> work and the beast is parked for a few hours. In the city, at lower speeds,
>> it seems to do fine. When I return home later in the day, it is less of a
>> problem and, sometimes, no problem at all.
>>
>> The hesitation occurs when the engine isn't working too hard. If I put my
>> foot down it may pick up without much difficulty and continue to run
>> smoothly until traffic conditions, or a downhill/flat section causes me to
>> ease off on the gas.
>>
>> If, as I am driving, I put truck into neutral and hit the gas, black
>> exhaust is visible - unburnt gas.
>>
>> We have tried testing it at the Ford dealership, which suggests but doesn't
>> confirm a possible solution. As a result, my mechanic tries various
>> replacements - oxygen sensor for one- and adjustments but with little
>> success.
>>
>> Most recently, we have tried a replacement computer. This seemed to improve
>> things for a few trips but, today, it was back to its old tricks.

Dave Armbruster
Denver, CO

"I believe in God, only I spell it Nature."
-- Frank Llyod Wright
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 10:46:53 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 83 F150 8.8 diff replacement

nuke wrote:

> Okay hear goes, I picked up this truck for $800, had 35's on the back and
> 31's in the front, ( ya I know ouch) I've had both the RUG 4 spd OD tranny
> and 208 transfer rebuilt, some damage, the front drive shaft was really
> shot, got one at a bone yard, front end looks great, evidence of a front
> end accident but the repair looks first rate. I opened the rear and
> couldn't get the pinion pin out to push in the axles to remove the c
> clamps, I was told the rear is probably shot, clutch tabs missing on one
> side. PAW had an 8.8 Motorsport 31 tooth HD limited slip for $250, I
> conned my local Ford guy to give it to me for the same. I had to get a
> torch to cut out the pin so I could pull the axles and remove the old unit.
>
> I now have my new unit and am getting ready to install it. I was told as
> long as I don't mess with the pinion shaft etc this should be a fairly easy
> slip in. Ya I know about the tight fit, but I got it out so I assume I can
> get it in. I flushed out the housing with mineral spirits real well. I
> want to replace the pinion seal. I know I am supposed to measure the
> preload rotation resistance with an inch pound torque wrench, and try to
> match it when I retighten the new pinion bolt. Should I do this with the
> new carrier in place or while I have it removed. I'm thinking with it in
> the ring gear will tend to hold the pinion in place so that is the
> direction I am leaning. Now for the carrier spacers, mine had them between
> the carrier unit and the housing, one side of them are scuffed a little, I
> read someone in a rebuild somewhere just turned them around, will this do
> or should I get new ones, I think I slip in the new carrier and then wedge
> in the spacers. Now I just read in a mag article that the spacers go
> behind the bearings before they are pressed onto the new carrier, I'm
> hoping that's for another kind of unit. What about all this backlash dial
> indicator stuff, don't have one. If I am just bolting in the new carrier
> with all the same gear set do I still need to do all that too? Being I am
> rebuilding everything I want to do the job reasonably right. Thanks guys.

Honestly,
As much as I like to tinker, I think this is a job for a shop
you can trust. I think you have to worry about the backlash
but only on the LS. I don't think you have to worry about it
on the open diff. You better get some more opinions from
the gang.


> Rick WoJo... by the way I went to HomeDepot and got a 7" bolt and some
> washers and nuts and plan on using my socket for the front hub nut as a

Great, I'll be itch'n to know how good it works.

> receiver cup to try to press out my pivot bushings. Regular price is about
> $8 a piece but I ordered a pair from Energy Suspensions through Pep Boysfor
> about $20.

Were these poly or rubber ?

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 08:40:24 -0700
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Exhaust System Longevity

John, Unless you NOT running an aluminized or stainless steel exhaust
system, AND if you're not running a catalytic converter(heats up the
exhaust gases tremendously and burns off the condensation quickly which
is GOOD) and are doing many SHORT trips...you will be replacing cheap
steel often. I have the original aluminized exhaust system on both of
our 85 fords. One has 194,000 miles and has sat outside all its life.
I never start my truck cold in the driveway and just pull it 30 feet
into the garage(when I can park it inside which isn't very often). If
it's cold out, I'll drive it around the block a few times till vapor
stops coming out of the pipe. Especially if I'm going to let it sit for
a week or two. The condensed water in the pipes as well as the exhaust
by-products (acids etc...) destroy pipes quickly.

Convenient proof : My neighbor across the street washes his vehicles
every weekend(I think he thinks he doing them a favor). He starts the
vehicles, backs them out of his garage, washes/dries them, starts them,
puts them back in his garage. Round trip, 60 feet with two cold starts.
He averages about 2 years per exhaust system and he doesn't understand
why.

Walt

> Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:54:13 -0400
> From: jdev mitre.org (John DeVincentis)
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Exhaust systems don't last very long
>
[snip]Are there different quality exhaust systems out there, or
are they
> all the same?
> How about painting it with some hi temp/barbeque paint (rated at 1000
> degrees F)? 9 out of 10 corrode from the inside out.
[snip]
> Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions,
> John Dee
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 11:56:40 -0400
From: nuke
Subject: FTE 80-96 - pivot bearings

Rick WoJo Nevermind, the socket for the front hub is just a little too
small to act as a receiver cup. Someone said for a deposit you can borrow
tools from Auto Zone, Pep Boys does the same thing around here I guess I'll
see if they have the right tool. My truck is up on blocks with wheels/
brake calipers removed, oh yea so is the engine and front Diff case and
axles and the bolt came out pretty easy and the unit dropped a little with
a little prying. I didn't disconnect the shocks or springs yet but I think
I am going to have to replace the arm bushings. Going original rubber on
those but got polly pivot bushings am mentioned in another message

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 11:57:41 -0400
From: nuke
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 83 F150 8.8 diff replacement

polly
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Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 10:12:28 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Pre hunting inspection tune up

Well it is time for my yearly vehicle tune up and inspection and I was
hoping you all could remind me of thing to check. I am already planning on
checking:

1. Change oil and filter
2. Check all drive train related fluids- fill if nec.
3. Check coolant level
4. Check PS pump level
5. Check serpentine belt tension and tensioner wear mark
6. Remove Idle-Air Bypass valve and clean
7. Clean throttle body opening
8. Pull computer codes both KOEO and Engine Running- diagnose and repair
faults
9. Check U-joints
10. Inspect brakes-adjust rear brakes if necessary
11. Inspect and adjust parking brake
12. Compression check all cylinders
13. Wash and re-oil Filtercharger

I always forget something so any advice will be appreciated.

Rade

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Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 12:31:33 -0500
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Exhaust systems don't last very long

>John Dee asked:

>It seems that I have to replace parts of my exhaust system every two years
or so. Are there different quality exhaust systems out there, or are they
all the same?
How about painting it with some hi temp/barbeque paint (rated at 1000
degrees F)?
I am open for suggestions. I am considering changing to a shorter exhaust
system so that there are few parts to maintain.

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions,

This has been my experience as well on vehicles that are driven infrequently
or on short hops where the exhaust doesn't really warm up. They do rust
from the inside out due to water mixing with corrosive exhaust by-products.
So exterior coatings won't help much. Most of the corrosion is in parts
that run the coolest toward the rear of the system. I don't know if you do
exhaust work yourself but my '90, 300 I6 was easy. I was looking for
standard replacement parts and went to Advance Auto and got Walker brand
center pipe, muffler, tailpipe and 3 clamps for $75. Went home and
separated only one connection (at the back of the cat) and put the new stuff
in about 1 hour. We'll see how long it lasts but the price and work was
pretty low. I would route behind the back tire to keep the wheel and paint
clean.
David Anderson
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 13:44:42 -0500
From: "palspaugh"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - replace 1996 F-150 front spring w/ F-250 front spring?

Has anybody ever heard of doing such a thing? Replacing the F150 stock
spring with a F250 front spring in order to eliminate the squashed look the
truck has up front? If anybody has any info I would greatly appreciate it.

Regards,

Peter Alspaugh

W.H.Linder & Associates, Inc.
3330 W. Esplanade Ave.
Metairie, La. 70002
(504) 593-5523
alspaugh_p metairie.whlinder.com

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 14:24:24 -0500
From: "palspaugh"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Cheap 100 horsepower for a 1996 2x2 f-150 w/302 and auto trans w/3.55 ratio?

I am in the market for a cheap route to giving my truck a 1996 2x2 f-150
w/302 and auto trans w/3.55 ratio at least 100 more
horsepower without nitrus. Does anybody have any suggestions? Also I would
like advice on doing a suspension lift, like what products to use and also
tire sizes. I have heard that maybe the Twin I-beams would have to be
replaced, is this true?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

- -

Regards,

Peter Alspaugh

W.H.Linder & Associates, Inc.
3330 W. Esplanade Ave.
Metairie, La. 70002
(504) 593-5523
alspaugh_p metairie.whlinder.com

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