80-96-list-digest Sunday, September 27 1998 Volume 02 : Number 333



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - 1986 f250
FTE 80-96 - Re: knock and ping
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Updated FAQ
FTE 80-96 - F-350 transfer case question
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 3rd gear
Re: FTE 80-96 - Knocking and Pinging
FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead truck
FTE 80-96 - 1994 F-350 Powerstroke Diesel - no start at altitude
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead truck
RE: FTE 80-96 - Knocking and Pinging
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Ranger problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Where is the blower relay for 1992 F150
Re: FTE 80-96 - solenoid smokin'
Re: FTE 80-96 - Where is the blower relay for 1992 F150
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: T-shirt design
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - Where is the blower relay for 1992 F150
FTE 80-96 - 85 Bronco II with oil leak
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - 85 Bronco II with oil leak

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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 10:11:48 -0400
From: "jerrypurkis"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1986 f250

hello every body hope all our fla friends made out ok now the question i
have a 250 duel gas tanks i replaced the front tank the rear tank gauge
reads E after 4-5 gals of use is the sending
unit bad or a bad ground any thoghts thank you jerry
tadpole mwweb.com

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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 10:59:29 EDT
From: BGar02167 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: knock and ping

In a message dated 9/26/98 3:54:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time, owner-80-96-list-
digest ford-trucks.com writes:


I live in Tucson and in the afternoons when I drive the truck it starts to
knock and ping whenever I give it a little too much gas. In the mornings it
runs great and when its cool. I've tried all grades of gas and it doesn't
seem to help. Does anybody have any ideas? It seems a little more than the
timing."
>>
Ruling out the things you mention.I think you should have the Knock Sensor
checked. You can do this by tapping manifold next to sensor w/ hammer, the
engine should slow sensing a need to retard timing slightly.
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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 11:53:52 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Updated FAQ

The web site FAQ has been updated to include common problems
when posting to the lists and their solutions. If you use
Microsoft or Netscape email software, I strongly recommend
that you read these. If you experience a problem with posting
and you use Microsoft/Netscape email software and you have
not read the FAQ then you are on your own. Microsoft users
constitute 99% of my admin headaches because Microsoft products,
by default, attach binaries to emails.

If at any time you experience a problem posting or receive
an error message from our list server, read the FAQ.

>From this point forward, I will no longer answer questions
which are clearly covered in the FAQ. Last month my wife and
I put in 170 hours administering the lists and web site - this
is far too much for a simple "part-time" hobby.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 12:07:05 CDT
From: "Brad Burge"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F-350 transfer case question

I have been lurking for a while, but now I have a question.
I recently bought a '89 F-350 7.3 diesel 4X4 dually. The transfer case has always been hard to engage and has gotten almost impossible to get into 4wd. Also, now it will not go into 4-low at all. This is the best truck I have ever owned and I want to keep it top condition. Any thoughts or help will be appreciated. Thanks.

Brad Burge
bburge mid-mo.net
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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 13:37:32 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 3rd gear

BGar02167 aol.com wrote:
>
> Anyone have problems w/ a four speed popping out of third gear?
> I think the truck is an '88.
> What tranny will fit this truck as I have a four in an '85 f-250.
> thanks Brian G
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

My dad has this problem in his f150....so he is swapping it out for a
big block and auto transmission!
Chris
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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 13:44:28 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Knocking and Pinging

Jim Cannon wrote:
>
> Glenn-
> EGR malfunction or leak is a common cause of this.
>
> Also, does truck show any indication of running hotter than it used to in
> the afternoon? This promotes knock/ping. Could need new thermostat, etc.

Pinging alos promotes higher temperatures!

> Anyone worked on engine lately? Could they have accidentally swapped two
> spark plug leads? (Long shot.) Switch gas brands lately?
>
> I wouldn't rule out timing (or computer malfunction).
>
> Good luck,
> Jim
>
> Glenn wrote:
> "I have a 1990 F-250 4x4 with a 460 engine.
> I live in Tucson and in the afternoons when I drive the truck it starts to
> knock and ping whenever I give it a little too much gas. In the mornings it
> runs great and when its cool. I've tried all grades of gas and it doesn't
> seem to help. Does anybody have any ideas? It seems a little more than the
> timing."
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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 10:36:55 PDT
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead truck

I am missing something I think. I am going to go back to the sol. and
start again. It is the one wire that powers everything, so it has to be
hot all the time, and I just need to find the break in it (laughing out
loud). Anybody know anything about the built in circuit breakers? I
know they are supposed to auto reset, but other than that my haynes and
chilton don't say much else about them.

If this is taking up too much space, you can email personally (except
then not everyone gets to read it.... I am not sure how much this is
eating up the band or whatever its called)
Thanks for all the help
Casey Vandor cvandor hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 13:58:05 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead truck

Casey Vandor wrote:
>
> I am missing something I think. I am going to go back to the sol. and
> start again. It is the one wire that powers everything, so it has to be
> hot all the time, and I just need to find the break in it (laughing out
> loud). Anybody know anything about the built in circuit breakers? I
> know they are supposed to auto reset, but other than that my haynes and
> chilton don't say much else about them.
>
> If this is taking up too much space, you can email personally (except
> then not everyone gets to read it.... I am not sure how much this is
> eating up the band or whatever its called)
> Thanks for all the help

I know thaey can be replaced you just cut them out splice the news in
AND securely insulated!!!
Chris
94 Lightning #381
hhtp://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9459
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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 12:16:34 -0700
From: Bill Luddy
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1994 F-350 Powerstroke Diesel - no start at altitude

I have a '94 F-350 w/ 7.6l powerstroke which runs well except when I
take to the mountains. At altitudes over approximately 6,000 ft it will
not start after being parked overnight. Towing it to about 5,000 or less
clears the problem after a few hours. I have had the programing reloaded
by Ford but this did not solve the problem. No "check engine" lights
come on, and no codes are found when the mechanics check it.

If I can't solve this I've got to get rid of the truck. Anyone else run
into this problem or have a suggestion?

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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 14:47:53 -0400
From: nuke
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead truck

Nooooooooooo! Casey your dead truck saga is better then Dallas reruns, keep
it public we are all rooting for ya, I will be glad to read you have solved
your problem but sad in an empty feeling kind of way. Of course I realize
you are extremely frustrated in our entertainment of your predicament.
Hope you have other transport while you putz with this. Good luck and
happy hunting!

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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 14:07:18 -0700
From: Ken Justice
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Knocking and Pinging

Glenn,

I had the same problem with my '86 F150 in the Phoenix, AZ area during
hot weather. In the mornings it would run well, but during those hot
afternoons, it would sound like a can of gravel instead of a motor when
accelerating.

I tried EVERYTHING also and finally decided not to worry about it. The
motor had 150,000 miles on it when I sold it and apparently had no ill
effects as it was still in good condition, getting good gas mileage, not
burning oil, and running strong.

Regards,

Ken Justice
Discover the Working Mat!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.workingmat.com
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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 15:46:02 -0700
From: Robert Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead truck

It may be me that's missed something. Does your starter turn over at all?
(Spins, but the engine won't start?) If that's the case the fusible link,
as well as the connector before it are a good place to check.

If the engine won't turn over at all using the ignition switch. It is
probably the solenoid.

I thought when we started this the engine would not turn over.

Bob


At 10:36 AM 9/26/98 PDT, you wrote:
>I am missing something I think. I am going to go back to the sol. and
>start again.

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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 15:47:33 -0700
From: Robert Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Ranger problem

You may want to take a pressure rreading at fuel rail, sounds like a fuel
pressure regulator problem

Bob


At 07:26 PM 9/25/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Greetings from Nova Scotia.
>
>I own a 1986 V6, automatic with a little over 100,000 miles (206,000 km) on
>the engine. I am experiencing an intermittent problem that is baffling the
>mechanics around here.
>
>Essentially what happens is that when the engine has warmed up, about 5
>miles down the highway, it begins repeatedly to hesitate as if momentarily
>cutting out. This will continue for 20 miles at which time I have arived at
>work and the beast is parked for a few hours. In the city, at lower speeds,
>it seems to do fine. When I return home later in the day, it is less of a
>problem and, sometimes, no problem at all.
>
>The hesitation occurs when the engine isn't working too hard. If I put my
>foot down it may pick up without much difficulty and continue to run
>smoothly until traffic conditions, or a downhill/flat section causes me to
>ease off on the gas.
>
>If, as I am driving, I put truck into neutral and hit the gas, black
>exhaust is visible - unburnt gas.
>
>We have tried testing it at the Ford dealership, which suggests but doesn't
>confirm a possible solution. As a result, my mechanic tries various
>replacements - oxygen sensor for one- and adjustments but with little
>success.
>
>Most recently, we have tried a replacement computer. This seemed to improve
>things for a few trips but, today, it was back to its old tricks.
>
>Any advice would be most welcome.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bryan (not a mechanic but one who depends upon the knowledge of others!)
>
>
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>

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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 16:27:08 -0700
From: Brant Sawzak
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Where is the blower relay for 1992 F150

I don't know what type of ford you have but the resistors (or blower
relay if thats what they call it) is almost always inside the blower box
or ducting. It usually requires to remove a screw or two and pull the
unit out. Can be under the hood or inside, depending on how the box is
setup. But look around for some screws holding on a small panel.

John DeVincentis wrote:

> >Guys,
> >My heater blower only works on the hi setting.
> >It has been suggested that it is a resistor....
> >I called a parts store this morning and they
> >are calling it a blower relay.
> >But, they can't tell me where it is...
> >Can anyone help me out?
> >
> >Thanks in advance for any help,
> >JOhn Dee
>
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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 16:32:35 -0700
From: Brant Sawzak
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - solenoid smokin'

My battery is only an 850 amp I believe, I was just poking fun. I think the
problem is that the aftermarket parts store solenoids aren't of good quality.
Soon as I muster up the money, I am going to install a dual battey system, along
with some other stuff. Thanks for the input.

Rick Wojciechowski wrote:

> Brant Sawzak wrote:
>
> > I've had to replace my solenoid twice within the last two years. I think I
> > keep buying batterys with more amps than I need. Guess I just like to have
> > the juice on hand.
>
> So, whats the good of a large battery if you can't start thetruck anyways.
> Guess you keep a spare one on hand. What
> size battery you got anyway. I have a dual battery setup.
> You might want to consider that, rather than having one
> larger battery. That way if you go with what I have, then
> you can get the juice of two batteries when you need it,
> like for winching, not that I would EVER get stuck. :-)
>
> --
> Thanks,
> Rick Wojo
> '83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
> '92 Mstng 5.0L
> '95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)
>
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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 19:31:12 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Where is the blower relay for 1992 F150

Brant Sawzak wrote:
>
> I don't know what type of ford you have but the resistors (or blower
> relay if thats what they call it) is almost always inside the blower box
> or ducting. It usually requires to remove a screw or two and pull the
> unit out. Can be under the hood or inside, depending on how the box is
> setup. But look around for some screws holding on a small panel.
>
Or survey (of the Hanes Manual) SAYS!:

Just below and to the right of the blower motor, when looking from under
the hood. A small rectangular panelette. That would be the resistor
block. It's dark and rainy out, or I'd double check on the truck. (gotta
get that garage cleaned out, the roof fixed, the walls
weatherproofed.......)


> John DeVincentis wrote:
>
> > >My heater blower only works on the hi setting.
> > >It has been suggested that it is a resistor....
> > >I called a parts store this morning and they
> > >are calling it a blower relay.
> > >But, they can't tell me where it is...
>
I wonder if they can tell you _what_ a blower relay is?

There may well be a blower relay in there somewhere, but I don't know
about it. Then again, what do I know? ;-)

- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 20:31:10 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: T-shirt design

So far I've had 3 designs sent for the Ford Truck Enthusiasts
t-shirt. Next weekend there will be a page with anonymous voting
on it. If you're working on a design, please finish it up by
the middle of next week and email it to me.

Thanks,
Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 20:40:02 -0400
From: nuke
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead truck

Casey I took all of your dead truck messages and put them into one file and
have been reading them from the beginning, let me rehash your sage. This
started with you going out to your truck at work at lunchtime and it
wouldn't turn over, just clicked, suspecting you left lights on causing a
low battery, you got a jump and started the truck but the starter kept
turning even with the key off and before you got to the battery cable your
solenoid smoked. You've replaced the smoked solenoid but now you have no
power at all using the key. You say you jumped over from the battery to
the solenoid and the starter turned. You have traced for voltage to your
ignition switch and that was all dead and you are not sure which wire
should be hot.

I HAVE FOUND THE ONLY REPAIR MANUAL WITH DECENT WIRING DIAGRAMS ARE THE
FORD SHOP MANUALS, GET YOUR HANDS ON ONE OR BUY THE SET, WELL WORTH IT.
ARE YOU CHECKING FOR VOLTAGE? I WOULD SUGGEST YOU USE A MULTI-METER AND
THE WIRING DIAGRAM AS A MAP AND CHECK FOR CONTINUITY (OPENS, BROKEN WIRES)
FROM YOUR IGNITION KEY SWITCH TO THE ELECTRICAL SWITCH UNDER THE DASH.
DISCONNECT ALL THE WIRING PLUGS AND FIND THE ENDS OF EACH WIRE AND CHECK
THEM. THEN TO THE FIREWALL. THEN THROUGH THE FIREWALL, WHEN YOU CHECK
THROUGH THE FIREWALL ALSO CHECK FOR A SHORT TO GROUND. THEN THROUGHOUT THE
ENGINE COMPARTMENT TO YOUR SOLENOID.

You got lots of suggestions to check for bad fusible links and neutral
safety switches. You said the fusible links you've found all check good,
WHEN YOU DO THE CONTINUITY CHECKS YOU'LL FIND ANY OPEN WIRES OR ONES WITH
BAD FUSIBLE LINKS. I DON'T THINK THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH IS YOUR
PROBLEM. I MAY BE WRONG BUT I THINK THEY ONLY INHIBIT POWER TO THE STARTER
NOT THE WHOLE TRUCK.

I sent you a message about my F350 with a shot key switch in the steering
column. What kind of shape is your steering column in? THERE ARE CAMS,
GEARS, SLOTS, TEETH, AND A ROD THAT GOES DOWN THE COLUMN TO ACTIVATE THE
IGNITION SWITCH WHICH IS ACTUALLY UNDER THE DASH ON TOP I THINK OF THE
COLUMN. IF ANY OF THIS IS SHOT THAT MIGHT BE WHY YOUR IGNITION SWITCH
MIGHT HAVE BEEN STUCK ON EVEN THOUGH YOU REMOVED THE KEY AND RAN YOUR
BATTERY DOWN AND WHY YOUR STARTER CONTINUED TO SPIN WHEN YOU GOT YOUR JUMP
START, AND IT MIGHT JUST BE WHY YOU CAN'T GET POWER TO ANYTHING ELSE.

I SUSPECT YOU SMOKED MORE THEN YOUR SOLENOID, A WIRE OR FUSIBLE LINK OR
MELTED SOMETHING EITHER THROUGH THE FIREWALL OR TO A GROUND,
AND HAVE A BAD MECHANICAL SWITCH MECHANISM .

USE THE WIRING DIAGRAM LIKE A MAP AND CHECK EVERY WIRE ALONG THE PATHS I
MENTIONED, IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU'VE CHECKED FROM THE BATTERY TO THE SOLENOID,
IT'S THE CONTROL STUFF THAT'S NOT RIGHT. CHECKING CONTINUITY IS NOT THE
SAME AS CHECKING FOR VOLTAGE. AND I WOULD MAKE SURE ALL YOUR MECHANICAL
STUFF IN THE KEY SWITCH AND THROUGHOUT THE STEERING COLUMN IS IN GOOD
SHAPE. KEEP US POSTED NUKE.

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Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 22:38:20 -0500
From: "BigRed"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Where is the blower relay for 1992 F150

Are you sure the parts store knew exactly what you were talking about when
you asked about the resistor block? Relays and resistors are completely
different things. They look different, made different, and do different
things. Relays turn on and off and resistors basically limit the power going
through the circuit.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andre Roy
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Saturday, September 26, 1998 6:41 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Where is the blower relay for 1992 F150


>Brant Sawzak wrote:
>>
>> I don't know what type of ford you have but the resistors (or blower
>> relay if thats what they call it) is almost always inside the blower box
>> or ducting. It usually requires to remove a screw or two and pull the
>> unit out. Can be under the hood or inside, depending on how the box is
>> setup. But look around for some screws holding on a small panel.
>>
>Or survey (of the Hanes Manual) SAYS!:
>
>Just below and to the right of the blower motor, when looking from under
>the hood. A small rectangular panelette. That would be the resistor
>block. It's dark and rainy out, or I'd double check on the truck. (gotta
>get that garage cleaned out, the roof fixed, the walls
>weatherproofed.......)
>
>
>> John DeVincentis wrote:
>>
>> > >My heater blower only works on the hi setting.
>> > >It has been suggested that it is a resistor....
>> > >I called a parts store this morning and they
>> > >are calling it a blower relay.
>> > >But, they can't tell me where it is...
>>
>I wonder if they can tell you _what_ a blower relay is?
>
>There may well be a blower relay in there somewhere, but I don't know
>about it. Then again, what do I know? ;-)
>
>--
>Andre, Somewhere ...
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 21:24:56 -0400
From: nwo4life4ever juno.com (Tom Kirkbride)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 85 Bronco II with oil leak

Hi, my Bronco leaks oil and I have been trying to figure out what is
wrong. It sat in my yard for awhile but that was not the reason. I have
tightened the valve covers but it still leaks. Any suggestions?

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 21:43:07 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead truck

If your truck is part of the ignition switch recall then you might look into
that. My friends brother-in-law had a recalled truck that tried to start
all by itself and ended up catching fire in a couple of places.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: nuke
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, September 27, 1998 1:21 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead truck


>Casey I took all of your dead truck messages and put them into one file and
>have been reading them from the beginning, let me rehash your sage. This
>started with you going out to your truck at work at lunchtime and it
>wouldn't turn over, just clicked, suspecting you left lights on causing a
>low battery, you got a jump and started the truck but the starter kept
>turning even with the key off and before you got to the battery cable your
>solenoid smoked. You've replaced the smoked solenoid but now you have no
>power at all using the key. You say you jumped over from the battery to
>the solenoid and the starter turned. You have traced for voltage to your
>ignition switch and that was all dead and you are not sure which wire
>should be hot.
>
> I HAVE FOUND THE ONLY REPAIR MANUAL WITH DECENT WIRING DIAGRAMS ARE THE
>FORD SHOP MANUALS, GET YOUR HANDS ON ONE OR BUY THE SET, WELL WORTH IT.
>ARE YOU CHECKING FOR VOLTAGE? I WOULD SUGGEST YOU USE A MULTI-METER AND
>THE WIRING DIAGRAM AS A MAP AND CHECK FOR CONTINUITY (OPENS, BROKEN WIRES)
>FROM YOUR IGNITION KEY SWITCH TO THE ELECTRICAL SWITCH UNDER THE DASH.
>DISCONNECT ALL THE WIRING PLUGS AND FIND THE ENDS OF EACH WIRE AND CHECK
>THEM. THEN TO THE FIREWALL. THEN THROUGH THE FIREWALL, WHEN YOU CHECK
>THROUGH THE FIREWALL ALSO CHECK FOR A SHORT TO GROUND. THEN THROUGHOUT THE
>ENGINE COMPARTMENT TO YOUR SOLENOID.
>
>You got lots of suggestions to check for bad fusible links and neutral
>safety switches. You said the fusible links you've found all check good,
>WHEN YOU DO THE CONTINUITY CHECKS YOU'LL FIND ANY OPEN WIRES OR ONES WITH
>BAD FUSIBLE LINKS. I DON'T THINK THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH IS YOUR
>PROBLEM. I MAY BE WRONG BUT I THINK THEY ONLY INHIBIT POWER TO THE STARTER
>NOT THE WHOLE TRUCK.
>
>I sent you a message about my F350 with a shot key switch in the steering
>column. What kind of shape is your steering column in? THERE ARE CAMS,
>GEARS, SLOTS, TEETH, AND A ROD THAT GOES DOWN THE COLUMN TO ACTIVATE THE
>IGNITION SWITCH WHICH IS ACTUALLY UNDER THE DASH ON TOP I THINK OF THE
>COLUMN. IF ANY OF THIS IS SHOT THAT MIGHT BE WHY YOUR IGNITION SWITCH
>MIGHT HAVE BEEN STUCK ON EVEN THOUGH YOU REMOVED THE KEY AND RAN YOUR
>BATTERY DOWN AND WHY YOUR STARTER CONTINUED TO SPIN WHEN YOU GOT YOUR JUMP
>START, AND IT MIGHT JUST BE WHY YOU CAN'T GET POWER TO ANYTHING ELSE.
>
> I SUSPECT YOU SMOKED MORE THEN YOUR SOLENOID, A WIRE OR FUSIBLE LINK OR
>MELTED SOMETHING EITHER THROUGH THE FIREWALL OR TO A GROUND,
>AND HAVE A BAD MECHANICAL SWITCH MECHANISM .
>
>USE THE WIRING DIAGRAM LIKE A MAP AND CHECK EVERY WIRE ALONG THE PATHS I
>MENTIONED, IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU'VE CHECKED FROM THE BATTERY TO THE SOLENOID,
>IT'S THE CONTROL STUFF THAT'S NOT RIGHT. CHECKING CONTINUITY IS NOT THE
>SAME AS CHECKING FOR VOLTAGE. AND I WOULD MAKE SURE ALL YOUR MECHANICAL
>STUFF IN THE KEY SWITCH AND THROUGHOUT THE STEERING COLUMN IS IN GOOD
>SHAPE. KEEP US POSTED NUKE.
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 21:45:09 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 85 Bronco II with oil leak

Where exactly is the oil leaking from?

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tom Kirkbride
To: 80-96-list ....


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