80-96-list-digest Saturday, September 26 1998 Volume 02 : Number 331



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Rug Tranny?
FTE 80-96 - 83 F150 what year engine?
FTE 80-96 - Want to buy Budd wheels
FTE 80-96 - Hurricane Alley
Re: FTE 80-96 - 83 ifs pivot bushing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Want to buy Budd wheels
FTE 80-96 - Oil
FTE 80-96 - Antifreeze
FTE 80-96 - dead truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - Hurricane Alley
Re: FTE 80-96 - dead truck
FTE 80-96 - K&N Filtercharger Install
RE: FTE 80-96 - K&N Filtercharger Install
Re: FTE 80-96 - question
FTE 80-96 - '86 Ranger problem
FTE 80-96 - Popping Pick-up
FTE 80-96 - hydraulic clutch
FTE 80-96 - Re: 3rd gear
Re: FTE 80-96 - 83 ifs pivot bushing
FTE 80-96 - synthetic 85-140 gear oil
FTE 80-96 - synthetic everything
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: politics
Re: FTE 80-96 - dead truck (was solenoid)
Re: FTE 80-96 - 83 ifs pivot bushing
Re: FTE 80-96 - hydraulic clutch
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: dead truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - K&N Filtercharger Install
Re: FTE 80-96 - synthetic 85-140 gear oil
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: dead truck
RE: FTE 80-96 - Exhaust/intake leak at manifold

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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 07:07:28 -0400
From: nuke
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rug Tranny?

I have an 84 F150 my tranny guy rebuilt it and says it is a Rug? A book I
have says it is a heavy duty trans. Anyone know what 1st gear is like?
4th is an overdrive I'm looking to tow with this truck that has 3.55
gears, hoping it is a granny low, would like to run 30 or 31 inch tires
with a 302 any info out there on rugs other then on top of heads?

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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 07:13:43 -0400
From: nuke
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 83 F150 what year engine?

The data plate says this truck had a 351 now it has a 302 I am getting
ready to order parts from PAW and now I am wondering that maybe this is not
an 83 302 how can I tell looking at the block what year engine I have,
which ones will make a difference in the parts I order? Planning on the
PAW cam that matches the motorsport and Edlbrock performance plus, specs
all look the same supposed to help towing. have 3.55 gears Rug 4 spd
overdrive tranny want to run 30 or 31 inch tires.

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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 08:10:03 -0400
From: Andrew T Vincitore
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Want to buy Budd wheels

Anybody out there have 4 8 lug 16" Budd type wheels off a dually truck? =
I
need them for my Dodge chassis motorhome. I know they will fit as I have
changed the fronts already. If anybody has a set of aluminum wheels I'll
consider it but plain steel wheels are fine, cosmetic condition is not
important so long as they are not bent etc. Cheap IS important. I am
swapping off the old style split rim type and also want to be able to run=

radials. BTW Anybody know the the stock size tire on a 1 ton dually with
these wheels? I think 235-85-16 but have seen smaller.

Thanks,

Andrew
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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 07:57:51 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hurricane Alley

Guys/Gals,
Just wanted to say that I hope ALL of you who live where the
whether is getting rough makes it through okay. I live in
North Alabama so I don't have a worry. But some of you (Nuke and
probably other live in FL., and the gulf coast) Make sure you check
in so we know you are still a Fordnatic. :-)


- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 08:25:42 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 83 ifs pivot bushing

nuke wrote:

> Rick WoJo, I see your name every night, dedicated Ford owners friend,
> thanks man. The Governor decided he needed me more then my family before
> this hurricane hits so we will see who gets to the pivot bushings first.
> We don't climb rocks or walls down here in Florida and when I do go off

Yeah, but I did forget one thing in regards to the bushings. You gotta be
able to crawl over them gators when you need too. :-)


> road it is usually down orange groves to get to dove fields or bass holes,
> and I have wife, kids and labby dogs on board so once your 40 you 4 wheel
> easy.

Soooooooo, you mean to tell me I only have 10 more years of goodwheeling left
in me ? :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 09:41:21 -0400
From: John Kanyan
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Want to buy Budd wheels

Andrew My dually has 215/85/r16 on it tho I'm thinkin about changin to
245/75/16 the tire is the same height just a little wider....John
At 08:10 AM 9/25/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Anybody out there have 4 8 lug 16" Budd type wheels off a dually truck? I
>need them for my Dodge chassis motorhome. I know they will fit as I have
>changed the fronts already. If anybody has a set of aluminum wheels I'll
>consider it but plain steel wheels are fine, cosmetic condition is not
>important so long as they are not bent etc. Cheap IS important. I am
>swapping off the old style split rim type and also want to be able to run
>radials. BTW Anybody know the the stock size tire on a 1 ton dually with
>these wheels? I think 235-85-16 but have seen smaller.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Andrew
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>
>
John Kanyan

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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 08:38:08 -0600
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Oil

Date:Thu, 24 Sep 1998 09:32:55 -0400
From:Ethan Vos >
Subject:FTE 80-96 - oil

>Hi there.
>What's the best oil to put in a powerstroke?
>Ethan

You won't go wrong with Shell Rotella T 15W-40.

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Date: 25 Sep 1998 10:59:16 EDT
From: Harold.Bucks 1USA.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Antifreeze

I recently heard that Texaco DEX COOL extended life antifreeze should
not be used in Ford engine. Does anyone know if this is true and if it
is, why?

harold.bucks 1usa.com
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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 09:03:14 PDT
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - dead truck

Not sure about that one. Maybe the broncos are differnt than the
pickups for that year.

Mine has always been able to start in gear. Where was this safety
located? It could be possible it was bypassed, and now the bypass
broke?

Thanks
Casey

______________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 12:59:58 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hurricane Alley

Hey Rick,
I live in Largo, which is near the coast in Tampa Bay, FL.they are evacuating
the mobile homes & the elderly. but they say we might just get tropical storm
winds,and flooding. But we get alot of tornados spawn from the hurricane.I am
prepared.
We will get hit sat at 3am. and you know i will be awake at that time. I will
let you know how we make out. I feel sorry for the panhandle of Fl, and
Louisianna.They will get hit with 115 mph winds after it picks up speed across
the gulf of mexico.

Joe
jsc721
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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 13:10:13 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - dead truck

Casey Vandor wrote:

> Not sure about that one. Maybe the broncos are differnt than the
> pickups for that year.
>
> Mine has always been able to start in gear. Where was this safety
> located? It could be possible it was bypassed, and now the bypass
> broke?

Casey, My neautral safety switch is located on top of the tranny, on
the drivers
side next to the manual shifter. The harness comes off the main chassis
wiring from the drivers side. Once again, on mine if I do not have that
hooked in-line then I get nothing with the ignition key when I go to
turn
it over. But it will still crank if it is towed and by letting out the
clutch.


- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 11:24:00 -0700
From: "Gerald L. Hinkle Jr. CPA"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - K&N Filtercharger Install

Greetings list people! For those of you who are interested, I installed a
K&N Filtercharger kit in my truck a few days ago and I am extremely
pleased. The kit replaced the entire air-box assembly and induction tubes
that came stock in my 1994 F-350 CC 4x4 with the 5.8 litre motor. The
installation process was simple, and the final result is quite attractive
under the hood. The kit cost me around $150 and included a filter cleaning
kit. (1 bottle of K&N wash and 1 bottle of K&N filter oil) There is a
slightly different sound at idle, and a real cool roar (sucking noise) when
I stab the gas. As for the most important aspect, the increase in
performance CAN be felt in the pedal! I imagine that I must have gained at
least 5-7 horsepower if I can feel it in the pedal. As for the change in
MPG, the results are not in yet. I will have to wait until the excitement
of the new found power wears off a little. (Driving a little heavy with
the right foot lately). Does anyone out there have experience with
performance chips? Hypertech has a chip that claims improved performance,
any ideas? Thanks for all the great info...

Jerry Hinkle Jr. CPA
"RULEMAKER" 94 F-350 Crew Cab 4x4
"LTS-ROK" 80 JEEP CJ-5
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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 13:06:39 -0600
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - K&N Filtercharger Install

Jerry,

Glad to hear you like your FIPK, I like mine also. One thing you should
think about though is if it is legal and will pass emissions with it on. I
suggest you keep your original filter plenum just in case. I hope you
noticed the sticker excluding it from the emissions inspection that you are
to put near it. We will have to see if it will fly with the state. I put
mine on last year and I have another year to go before I test the truck
again.
As for the MPG increase, I am sure it is there, but who cares, I love that
extra power. I am curious about what size of engine you have. Mine is an '95
F150 with a 5.8L 351 and a automatic. I found that the automatic seems to
like the extra throttle response it add also. I am also curious if you
notice it too. If you have the 460 I would think it likes it even more than
mine.

Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Gerald L. Hinkle Jr. CPA [SMTP:2hinkles sprynet.com]
> Sent:Friday, September 25, 1998 12:24 PM
> To:ford trucks
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - K&N Filtercharger Install
>
> Greetings list people! For those of you who are interested, I installed a
> K&N Filtercharger kit in my truck a few days ago and I am extremely
> pleased. The kit replaced the entire air-box assembly and induction tubes
> that came stock in my 1994 F-350 CC 4x4 with the 5.8 litre motor. The
> installation process was simple, and the final result is quite attractive
> under the hood. The kit cost me around $150 and included a filter
> cleaning
> kit. (1 bottle of K&N wash and 1 bottle of K&N filter oil) There is a
> slightly different sound at idle, and a real cool roar (sucking noise)
> when
> I stab the gas. As for the most important aspect, the increase in
> performance CAN be felt in the pedal! I imagine that I must have gained
> at
> least 5-7 horsepower if I can feel it in the pedal. As for the change in
> MPG, the results are not in yet. I will have to wait until the excitement
> of the new found power wears off a little. (Driving a little heavy with
> the right foot lately). Does anyone out there have experience with
> performance chips? Hypertech has a chip that claims improved performance,
> any ideas? Thanks for all the great info...
>
> Jerry Hinkle Jr. CPA
> "RULEMAKER" 94 F-350 Crew Cab 4x4
> "LTS-ROK" 80 JEEP CJ-5
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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 14:46:10 -0700
From: Rob Bryan
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - question

>From what I remember (I used to have an '87 F-150 SC 5.0), they changed the
engine between the '86 and '87 model year. As I remember, they said the '87
engine had "improved power and torque". What kind of parts are you
referring to?

Later,
Rob Bryan

At 2:21 AM -0500 09/25/98, BigRed wrote:
>I got a question for you all. What is the deal with the 5.0 in 1987 trucks.
>Did Ford make changes to it halfway through the year? I'm rebuilding my
>motor (which is the early one) and half of the parts out there I find say
>they are for 87 1 and up. Are they just saying that for fun or is there a
>reason? Thanks in advance.
>
>
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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 19:26:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bryan Maycock
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '86 Ranger problem

Greetings from Nova Scotia.

I own a 1986 V6, automatic with a little over 100,000 miles (206,000 km) on
the engine. I am experiencing an intermittent problem that is baffling the
mechanics around here.

Essentially what happens is that when the engine has warmed up, about 5
miles down the highway, it begins repeatedly to hesitate as if momentarily
cutting out. This will continue for 20 miles at which time I have arived at
work and the beast is parked for a few hours. In the city, at lower speeds,
it seems to do fine. When I return home later in the day, it is less of a
problem and, sometimes, no problem at all.

The hesitation occurs when the engine isn't working too hard. If I put my
foot down it may pick up without much difficulty and continue to run
smoothly until traffic conditions, or a downhill/flat section causes me to
ease off on the gas.

If, as I am driving, I put truck into neutral and hit the gas, black
exhaust is visible - unburnt gas.

We have tried testing it at the Ford dealership, which suggests but doesn't
confirm a possible solution. As a result, my mechanic tries various
replacements - oxygen sensor for one- and adjustments but with little
success.

Most recently, we have tried a replacement computer. This seemed to improve
things for a few trips but, today, it was back to its old tricks.

Any advice would be most welcome.

Thanks

Bryan (not a mechanic but one who depends upon the knowledge of others!)


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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 17:20:35 -0700
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Popping Pick-up

Geof,

This may sound crazy but...............my 1985 F-150 4x4 would always
make a popping sound whenever I twisted the chassis like driving into a
driveway at a 45 degree angle. It only popped when I turned right(as I
remember) but not left. Took it to the dealer back in 1984(when I bought
the truck as an 85) and the service manager said, oh yeah, I had another
one like that. He loosened the straps holding the front fuel tank and
the popping stopped and has never returned. His conclusion was that some
of the tanks were strapped in a little too tight and that when the
chassis flexed, the tight straps weren't able to move slightly making
them want to twist the front tank until .....the straps finally overcame
the friction and slipped making a popping sound. He loosened them and
they have never popped again in the remaining 15 years. He was proud
of figuring this one out.... said it took him a while...I'm just glad he
practiced on someone else's rig. Walt


Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 15:44:46 -0500
From: Geoffrey Schrag
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Leaking Hub, Axle Ratios, Popping noise?

4. Every now and then I've noticed what I can only describe as a
popping
or slapping noise when I turn the front wheels or go through a dip. A
mechanic told me that this is characteristic of these vehicles and this
noise is made by a structural member flexing when the frame is put under
a
load?

Any assistance would be appreciated, thanks in advance,

- - -Geof Schrag

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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 17:27:04 -0700
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - hydraulic clutch

Nuke,

My 85 F150 w/351 (bought in 84) has the hydraulic clutch and has worked
great since day one. Find one in the junk yard and it should be a bolt
in. Walt

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 15:43:20 -0400
From: nuke
Subject: FTE 80-96 - hydraulic clutch conversion kit for 83 F150

anybody know of a hydraulic clutch kit or conversion to replace that
mechanical monstrosity in an 83 F150 302/351 3 speed Overdrive 4x4?

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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 20:28:19 EDT
From: BGar02167 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 3rd gear

Anyone have problems w/ a four speed popping out of third gear?
I think the truck is an '88.
What tranny will fit this truck as I have a four in an '85 f-250.
thanks Brian G
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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 98 17:26:24 -0800
From: todd trifilm.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 83 ifs pivot bushing

Hi,
I have an '87 FS Bronco with a Rancho 4" lift kit. I replaced the TTB pivot
bushings and radius arm bushings over a year ago while I was already geared up
from a rear main seal replacement. I did the bushings in my driveway with the
engine in, a floor jack and a cheap scissor jack. I lifted the corner of the
truck with the floor jack and jacked the tire/axle up with the scissor jack. I
pulled the pivot bolt out while the arm was at a neutral position, removed the
coil spring top retainer clip, loosened the radius arm bushing retaining nut,
and I think I had removed my sway bar. A combo of jacking the tire and lowering
the body forces the TTB arm out of its pivot bracket. It drops out enough to
work on but not enough to get away from you because of the axle running through
the beam and the loose radius arm attachment. I fashioned a puller/installer for
the pivot bushings out of all-thread, washers, nuts, and pipe bell-reducers. I
gutted the rubber pivot bushing and collapsed the remaining shell using a
screwdriver and a hammer. I used my "puller" to pull the new poly bushing
assembly into its retaining sleeve in the TTB arm. It was definately a friction
fit, freezing the bushing and/or heating the arm a bit may help though I did
neither. This would also be the time to swap out those radius arm bushings since
with everything loose you'll have enough for and aft movement to get the arm out
of it backet so you can remove and replace the front half of the bushing. You
will be under your truck so remember to chock the back wheels, use the emergency
brake, and use jack stands to hold the front up.
I like the poly for the TTB pivot bushings, they look as good as the day I
installed them, impervious to oil and auto fluids, and will last the life of the
truck. I think in this particular application the poly is right at home. The
rotation about this point is nearly linear up and down so I think any
flexibility limitatons poly may impose in other uses, like spring shackle
bushings for the off-roader, are negligible and there are possible benefits
provided by a firmer pivot point for the TTB while driving on road.
The radius arm bushings could possibly limit flexibility in an off-road
situation with a lift kit where you're achieving greater than stock travel. I do
think that there could be added harshness on the road, particularly when
confronting a square edged bump. The bump seems to be transmitted through the
firmer poly directly to the frame at the radius arm bracket before the
tire/spring/shock react, wereas the softer rubber bushing deforms and absorbs
the shock. But I haven't switched back to the stock radius arm bushings to
experiment. Come to think of it my stock bushings may have been a softer poly
I'll have to dig them up. Wet, dry, hot, or cold, my bushings haven't squeeked
and I like them.

Have Fun, T.W.M.

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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 19:52:34 -0400
From: nuke
Subject: FTE 80-96 - synthetic 85-140 gear oil

I want to run synthetic gear oil in my limited slip diff. Where can I find
synthetic 85-140 gear oil? Is it compatible with the limited slip
additive? Do I still need to use the additive?

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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 20:03:19 -0400
From: nuke
Subject: FTE 80-96 - synthetic everything

I am leaning towards running synthetic fluids in everything but the engine.
Front and rear ends, breaks, powersteering pump, synthetic ATF in the 208
transfer case, and my tranny guy said run motor oil in the Rug xmsn,
thinking of 20w-50 synthetic. I want to change the oil in the engine every
3,000mi so I'm planning on sticking with good old Discount Auto Parts
(valvoline) 10w-40 because I live in Florida, I will probably break in the
rebuilt engine with 10w-30, oil/filter change after the first run, then
again maybe after the first week. Plan on putting one of those magnet
things on the oil filter. Any feed back synthetic vers natural?

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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 20:26:25 -0400
From: nuke
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: politics

yah clinton probably drives a DODGE not appropriate discussion on a FORD
page

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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 20:34:08 -0400
From: nuke
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - dead truck (was solenoid)

Casey, I had a diesel F-350 that the key switch wouldn't work any more so
rather then replace it I took the cover off of the steering column and used
a small visegrip to grab the rod that went forward along the steering
column I guess into the switch under the dash. This was a long time ago
but seems to me at times it would get jammed up and nothing would get power
like you have been describing. You don't want to do what I did. I put in
a toggle switch so I could get power on like using the key but the key did
nothing, the steering wheel wouldn't even lock after I got done with it,
and I used a push
button to hit the starter. I'd dissemble your steering column and replace
the worn out parts if you find any. I have been following your saga
nightly so when you finally solve your problem post a good notice, a lot of
us are rooting for you. nuke

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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 20:44:53 -0400
From: nuke
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 83 ifs pivot bushing

thanks Todd, very informative I'll let you know what I do
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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 20:44:01 -0400
From: nuke
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - hydraulic clutch

thanks Walt
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Date: 25 Sep 1998 20:31:42 EDT
From: Hawk sktc.net
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: dead truck

80>>So if I do find a fusable link that is bad, should I just cut it out and
80>>then add a fuse where it was? I did find one for example that was rated
80>>18 amps. (unfortunetly it was still good) I have never seen 18's, would
80>>a 20 be ok, or do I need to track down an 18?
80>>
80>>Thanks
80>>Casey


Hi Casey, I'll jump on the fusable link band wagon. I had a Thunderbird
that blew one, I had the exact same symptoms that you did, nothing
worked. Mine was near the solinoid, but I don't know where it would be
on a pickup. I don't even know if a pickup has one, but i bet it does.
Trouble shooting was real easy, it looked, felt, and smelled burnt.
My parts store had the correct one in stock. Installation was a snap,
so why go to the trouble of grafting on a fuse? Sorry that I forgot
about fusable links in my earlier post. Good Luck. Buck Shoff

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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 22:22:38 EDT
From: Kbeverwein aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - K&N Filtercharger Install

Hey jerry,
I had both K&N filter and a performance chip on both my 94 F150: 5.0 and my
97
F250: 5.4. They worked out great. Fuel mileage increase a little bit.
Couldn't keep the
old foot out of it. I'M going to put the K&N filter on my new 99 F250, which
has the
PowerStroke Diesel.

I traded in my 97 so if you know of anyone wanting a chip let me know. That
is for the
5.4 litre motor.

Brian
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Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 22:14:59 -0700
From: MARK G CORBOY
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - synthetic 85-140 gear oil

nuke wrote:
>
> I want to run synthetic gear oil in my limited slip diff. Where can I find
> synthetic 85-140 gear oil? Is it compatible with the limited slip
> additive? Do I still need to use the additive?
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.htmltry redline.com
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 23:25:07 -0500
From: "BigRed"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: dead truck

I wasn't telling him to just skip the fuse. I was just saying that it is
better to put a smaller fuse in instead otherwise whatever the reason for
the fuse blowing up in the first place could go through the bigger fuse and
hurt whatever it is going to. Then you'd have more problems than what you
started with.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bakend aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, September 25, 1998 4:02 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: dead truck


>In a message dated 9/25/98 1:04:18 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
bigred coop.two-
>harbors.mn.us writes:
>
>> If you're going to
>> put a bigger fuse in you might as well just forget the fuse and just
>connect
>> the wires directly.
>Do not connect the wires directly! The 20 amp fuse is way better than
nothing.
>You have to figure that something blew the fuse link and may or may not be
>fixed yet. If you put in the 20 and it doesn't blow than consider it OK to
>replace with the proper 18 amp fuse link. The 20 amp fuse will blow where
>there is overload on the wire and for testing purposes the 10% increase in
>fuse size should be OK.
>D Baken
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 23:09:37 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Exhaust/intake leak at manifold

Bruce-

I have this engine and I had this problem about a year ago and did it all
myself. When the engine was new, there was no exhaust manifold gasket, only
intake manifold gasket. There is a good aftermarket gasket out there that
you can put in. It is cheap. It is fairly easy to do.

Hints to make it easier? There is a torqueing sequence in the shop manual
that I used for the nuts/bolts that I think helps prevent warp, leak, crack
problems due to uneven torque. While it was all apart, I replaced all the
studs, nuts, washers. They were cheap. I hope they will be less likely to
break the NEXT time I pull it apart. (None broke on me this time, but I
have had that problem on other old engines. I guess the studs get weak or
brittle with age.) Torque values are for lightly oiled threads.

Getting to the front studs/bolts required removing the air pump :-( and
unbolting alternator and setting down on the frame. (Disconnect battery.)
Even with that, getting to the front ones was a real PITA.

Get a new donut gasket for where the exhaust pipe bolts to the bottom of
the manifold and it will be less likely to leak.....


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