80-96-list-digest Tuesday, September 22 1998 Volume 02 : Number 324



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - re. ? open circuit
Re: FTE 80-96 - What engine?
FTE 80-96 - Warning - LH Threads
FTE 80-96 - Visor
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear Main Seal Leaking
Re: FTE 80-96 - Visor
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear Main Seal Leaking
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear Main Seal Leaking Vol 2-323
FTE 80-96 - smokin' solenoid
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear Main Seal Leaking Vol 2-323
Re: FTE 80-96 - Warning - LH Threads
Re: FTE 80-96 - Visor
Re: FTE 80-96 - Visor
FTE 80-96 - re. ? open circuit
FTE 80-96 - F-350 solid axle
Re: FTE 80-96 - Visor
FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.

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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:02:26 -0700
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re. ? open circuit

>hey trevor,
>
>i actually looked at it tonight. i've got about 2.87 amps showing on my
>voltmeter. went up front and started disconnecting power wires from he power
>distributor area (since i've got my battery in the bed). seems like it's the
>computer, or the factory wires. have everything else disconnected and with
>the 2 factory connections, the drain is still there.
>
>are you saying, that if i've got the harness hanging underneath the dash,
>with no wires touching or anything, that you had dirt and water get into
>your's and short them out somehow? i've still got the old dinger, maybe i'll
>just plug it back together and see if it disappears. i pulled the fuse, like
>you mentioned, but no help. so it may not be that dinger harness.
>
>i'm not really wanting to go the route of making a quick disconnect. i'd
>rather get this problem taken care of. is really gonna piss me off if it's
>the computer or something. cause this truck only had 6xxx miles on her. no
>excuse for a computer failure.
>
>oh great!! will pass on what i find, and thanks,
>parker
>--------------------------
>Parker Brooks (St. Louis)
>'98 Windstar (work: 62,2xx)
>'97 SHO
>'95 Flareside (NLOC #42)
>whoz primary.net

Are you sure that's 2.87 amps and not 2.87 milliamps? 3 mA draw is normal
for clock/computer.




- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mark Ponsford721-7397 or mponsfor uvic.ca


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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 08:55:08 -0700
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What engine?

>Hi,
>
>I'm brand spanking new to ford trucks with an 85 F-150 4x4 shorty. I am
>wondering what engine would be best for me and I would appreciate any
>opinions and advice. I will be using the truck as a daily driver with some
>light hauling, and trail riding and the occasional heavy load. Fuel economy
>is important but so is a little fun. The truck currently has a tired 300-6
>(with all the emissions and computer stripped out) with an auto trans, 3.55
>gears and I'll be running 31"x10.5" tires most likely. I am planning on
>replacing the computer and sensors/emissions systems with the swap. So I am
>wondering if you find that the 300-6 has enough juice for daily driving and
>on the highway? How is the 302?
>
>I am also wondering whether to swap in a motor with a carb or whether to
>switch to EFI/MPI. Is there a noticeable difference in performance and fuel
>economy between the two?
>
>Any advice is appreciated, thanks.
>
>Lars

I'd go with the carbed 300-I6. Has more off-idle torque than 302 and is
easier to troubleshoot'n'fix. These new computer controlled EFI engines
have more parts to them, consequently, more stuff to break and when it does
break, a better chance of leaving you stranded and costing you a lot more
to fix.


- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mark Ponsford721-7397 or mponsfor uvic.ca


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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 11:24:39 -0700
From: Rick Hunt
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Warning - LH Threads

Hey Gang,

I have a '94 F350 CC 4x4 with a 460ci - you know, with the PLASTIC IDLER PULLEY
on the serpentine belt tensioner. Found a metal replacement pulley so I thought
I'd just change out both belts and the pulley yesterday - WRONG!

The bolt that holds the idler pulley on the tensioner is LEFT HAND THREAD. Of
course, had to find out the hard way though. Today I learned that nobody, NOT
EVEN FORD, will sell that bolt (7/16x1.5" LH coarse thread). Had to go see the
nice folks at the dealer and fork over $58.00 for a complete tensioner assembly.

Hope this saves somebody else the $58; I sure would have apprecisted knowing
before I tackled the job!
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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 12:37:00 -0500
From: "Wallace, Craig"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Visor

Hello, All!

I'm the owner of a 1994 F150 XLT and would eventually like to add a visor.
Has anybody recently added one? If so, where did you buy it? What was the
price? Is there an on-line resource where I can browse thru different
variations? I've looked, but have found nothing.

To those who have had one for a while, would you suggest getting one? Are
there any negatives of having one installed? Would you do it again? Is it
a
do-it-yourself job? Did you notice much difference in your gas mileage (how
much drag does it create?)?

I would appreciate any information concerning visors. I think they look
awesome.

Thanks!
Craig
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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 13:50:24 -0400
From: John Kanyan
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear Main Seal Leaking

Hey Joe; If I'm not mistaken (someone correct me if I'm wrong) but its not
bad changing rear main seal .The seal is installed from the rear of the
engine meaning you have to pull the transmission ,or slide it back enough to
unbolt flex plate or flywheel so the seal can be accesed.Pop the old one out
put the new one in.Hope you mains arent worn enough to have let the crank
drop and ride on the bottom of the seal. If thats the case the new seal wont
last long either.Good luck.....John
At 06:03 PM 9/20/98 EDT, you wrote:
>Hey Guys,
>I have an 89 e-250 van with 178k on it, 4.9 engine. it looks like i am going
>to have to put a rear seal in it. i tried stop leak, and it worked for a while
>but not anymore. would anyone know how big of a job this is going to be, and
>do i need any special tools to do it?the oil is dripping from the flywheel
>housing.any ideas?
>
>
> thanks, joe
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>
>
John Kanyan

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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:20:59 -0400
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Visor

Craig,

While I don't have one myself, a cousin of mine does and he was quick to
offer up his advice to me when I picked up my, well, pickup. :)
He told me not to get one, plain and simple. When I asked why, he said
that you can't go through the drive-through carwashes with them. Aw Shucks!
I don't trust those things with my paint anyway.
Just a consideration for the slacker in all of us.
And to throw in my opinion since I have a (relatively) captive audience,
I think they look pretty darn good too!

- -Mike

- -----Original Message-----
From: Wallace, Craig
To: 80-96 Ford Trucks
Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 2:03 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Visor


Hello, All!

I'm the owner of a 1994 F150 XLT and would eventually like to add a visor.
Has anybody recently added one? If so, where did you buy it? What was the
price? Is there an on-line resource where I can browse thru different
variations? I've looked, but have found nothing.

To those who have had one for a while, would you suggest getting one? Are
there any negatives of having one installed? Would you do it again? Is it
a
do-it-yourself job? Did you notice much difference in your gas mileage (how
much drag does it create?)?

I would appreciate any information concerning visors. I think they look
awesome.

Thanks!
Craig
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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:37:46 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear Main Seal Leaking

JSC721 aol.com wrote:

> Hey Guys,
> I have an 89 e-250 van with 178k on it, 4.9 engine. it looks like i am going
> to have to put a rear seal in it. i tried stop leak, and it worked for a while
> but not anymore. would anyone know how big of a job this is going to be, and
> do i need any special tools to do it?the oil is dripping from the flywheel

Yoooo Joe,
Okay If it is dripping between the shield and the flywheel then yes its
the main seal. FIRST, look to make sure its not coming down from the
the valve cover if you havn't already. Because if you can see the oil
coming down on the engine side of the shield then its somewhere like
the valve cover. So if you have established that it is definatetly the
main seal, then you have some work ahead of you. I took my transmission
(standard) off twice in a 3 week period(first clutch, then main seal went),
and the second time was not much easier. But here are a few tips that
should help you.

1. Spray the transmission/xfer-case crossmember bolts GENEROUSLY
with " Rust Eater " the night before.
2. Rent the transmission jack.
3. Have a buddy on hand.
4. If yours is the standard shift like mine then you will have to pull up the
carpet/vinyl floor, probably also pull out the seats(I did both times) and
take the plate off that surrounds the standard shifter to allow you to
pull the tranny back once you get it loose. This also makes it easier to
get to some of the bell housing bolts from inside. Also, make sure you
keep track of the bell housing bolts(lots of coffee cans) because they are
not all the same length.
5. Get some LONG bolts(4"-5") for alignment/guide of the transmisison the same
threads as the tranny bolts when you are putting it back together. Definately
saves some time. If not then just get something long enough to act as an
alignment tool.
6. Speaking of alignment, you will probably want to get the plastic alignment
tool for the clutch/pressure plate assembly. ALSO, once you have this thing
apart you may be so inclined to go ahead and replace the clutch/pressure
plate.
I might also suggest that you replace the clutch/pressure plate bolts. They
really are not meant for more than a one time installation, I did.
Ofcourse a lot of this is if you have the standard, all I'm trying to point out

is that you need to look at your clutch/pressure plate carefully, and make sure

of two things : black or burnt score marks and worn down clutch. On the
clutch, you have grooves which face the tranny side. If you cannot feel the
grooves
then you need a new clutch plate.
7. Buy yours self 3/8" - 1/2" adapter and 1/2" - 3/8" if you dont already have
them.
8. Also get yourself couple of long extensions and a universal joint for the your
ratchet.


Here is the rear main seal replacement in a nutshell. Other than the tips above.

1. Truck completely off ground and remove driveshafts and skid plate.
2. Remove standard tranny linkage(or auto tranny).
3. Disconnect speadometer gear( mine is on the tranfercase)
4. Take interior out along with plate around standard shift
(if you have standard)
5. Take out the top Bellhousing bolts. (I believe 3 ). (Make yourself aware
of the different lenght bolts).
6. Take out crossmember bolts(Spray the night before) and have a breaker
bar on hand.
5. Place tranny jack under tranny(at the C.G.) of tranny/xfer-case with the
chain around it and raise.
6. Pull out the crossmember.
7. Finish taking out the rest of the bellhousing bolts.
8. Pull tranny back and see flywheel/pressure plate . Take the 6 bolts off,
then pull flywheel/pressure plate off. (Replace with new bolts)
9. Flywheel is now visible held on by 5 bolts. Also look at the Pinion bearing
in the center of the flywheel and make sure that is okay. Its cheap to
replace.
(You will need to rent a free tool from Autozone for it. Its a hammer slide
with three armitures to grab on to it.). But if you are not going to replace
it
then it does not need to come out. However I replaced mine. Also the
flywheel has a particular bolt pattern alignment of going on. Mark it before
you
take it off.
10. Now the rear seal is visible. :-) Drill two SMALL holes into the metal part
of
seal and screw in two sheet metal screws. These will be used to pry it out.
You'll know where the metal part is when you buy the new one.
11. When putting the new seal in, I used what is called aviation sealant and the
edge of it then lightly tapped around the seal to seat it. MAKE SURE
the seal is NOT cocked. If you go with the aviation sealant then your working
time to get the seal in place is shortened a bit. Just make sure your seal is
square and seated.
12. Put everything back together in reverse order as the books say.
See how easy that was. :-)

13. Its a fun project and everyone needs to do it atleast once. Although
when you are putting the tranny back in, make sure you don't have
any neighbors with sensitive ears. That alignment can be a real PITA
sometimes.

Any other questions feel free.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:39:11 EDT
From: JohnFandR aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear Main Seal Leaking Vol 2-323

Joe,

This being my first day and first post, I'm not sure I'm answering in the
correct manner or not but I'm convinced that if I'm not somebody will
straighten me out.

Nevertheless, here goes.

My 92 F150 5.0 engine developed the same leak. I don't know if it'll be the
same for your van or not but the mechanic that did mine said that the
transmission had to be removed. If it's the oil pan then the engine had to
come out. His "book" said 6 hours for one job and 8 hours for the other but I
can't remember which way it went.
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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:31:24 PDT
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - smokin' solenoid

I can pick up my solenoid tommorow. Just to make sure, (cause I can't
find this in my wiring diags) (this is on a 83 351W) There should be
the main positive and a smaller lead on one side and the large wire and
a small one on the other side, with a little wire on the small contact
on the side? I know this sounds stupid, but I HATE working with
electrical crap... spark spark.. ouch LOL

Thanks
Casey Vandor

______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:42:17 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear Main Seal Leaking Vol 2-323

Hey Guys ,
thanks for the info.the valve cover gasket is new, and i have the c-6 auto
transmission. i noticed a little oil drip from the front of the oil pan also.
i hope i dont have to pull the oil pan, because that oil pan gasket is one
pain in the a _ _. but i think that i will rent a tranny jack. i hate to try
and balance it on my floor jack. thanks again for the info. i will keep you
posted on my accomplishments with this truck.i have done so much to it
already. IT NEVER ENDS.

joe jsc721
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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:43:00 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Warning - LH Threads

Rick and gang,
Sometimes for special bolts (hardend metric for example) you have to
find a local mfg or distributor of bolts. I go to one in Mentor, Ohio
for the ones that NOBODY carries. I'm not saying they would have had
yours or that you didn't look hard enough, but just some FYI for
everyone. Rick, also, just wondering if you had a manual for this
that maybe left that out? You probably figured you didn't need one,
huh? Who would have, that's like looking up how to take out an
alternator.

Later,
Randy (Brew)

Rick Hunt wrote:
>
> Hey Gang,
>
> I have a '94 F350 CC 4x4 with a 460ci - you know, with the PLASTIC IDLER PULLEY
> on the serpentine belt tensioner. Found a metal replacement pulley so I thought
> I'd just change out both belts and the pulley yesterday - WRONG!
>
> The bolt that holds the idler pulley on the tensioner is LEFT HAND THREAD. Of
> course, had to find out the hard way though. Today I learned that nobody, NOT
> EVEN FORD, will sell that bolt (7/16x1.5" LH coarse thread). Had to go see the
> nice folks at the dealer and fork over $58.00 for a complete tensioner assembly.
>
> Hope this saves somebody else the $58; I sure would have apprecisted knowing
> before I tackled the job!
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:39:32 EDT
From: Kbeverwein aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Visor

craig,
i put one on a 97 f250, 5.4L, there wasn't any noticeable drag. got the same
fuel mileage.
Believe it or not I bought mine from JC whitney. for around $159. but then you
have to get
it painted. You can do it yourself. I got mine installed for around $50.00.
It is a Two person ordeal. I had about $300.00 tied up in it. I think the one
from Lund is around
$300.00 bucks with lights. The one from JC Whitney had lights.

brian
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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:04:55 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Visor

Craig,
I say if NOT going thru the auto car wash is the biggest negative here
than what's the problem? I don't have one yet either, but it's in the
plans (so are alot of other items) but Summit racing has them for
one. Lund is a good one, but not the least expensive. You can choose
from two types normally called Sunvisor and Moonvisor w/the difference
being that the Moonvisor has 5 built-in lights. More costly, of
course, so if you have cab running lights you'll save yourself about
40-50 bucks by getting the Sunvisor. I think the Lund Moonvisor is
about $180-200 bucks. Keep in mind that unless you are a bodyman (or
have a friend that's one) you will have to pay for prep and paint to
make it match your truck, but that's not too awfully expensive.

try these sights:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.summit.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.performanceproducts.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.autoaccessory.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jcwhitneyusa.com


Michael J. Pasznik, Jr. wrote:
>
- ---------snip-----------

> And to throw in my opinion since I have a (relatively) captive audience,
> I think they look pretty darn good too!
>
> -Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wallace, Craig
> To: 80-96 Ford Trucks
> Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 2:03 PM
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Visor
>
> Hello, All!
>
> I'm the owner of a 1994 F150 XLT and would eventually like to add a visor.
> Has anybody recently added one? If so, where did you buy it? What was the
> price? Is there an on-line resource where I can browse thru different
> variations? I've looked, but have found nothing.
>
- --------snip--------
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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:51:42 -0230
From: "T.Gill"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re. ? open circuit

Hi Parker,

My drain was clearly much easier to find than yours. Did you pull all
the fuses in the truck and the voltmeter still showed the 2.87 amp
drain? All I did was start pulling fuses tell the drain no longer showed
on the voltmeter and then looked for causes in that circuit.

Sorry I can't be much help. Maybe another list member will have an idea
so keep posting what you find. Remember to work logically and keep your
cool, at least you can still use your truck.

Trev

Original message:

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 23:20:13 -0500
From: "Parker Brooks"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re. ? open circuit

hey trevor,

i actually looked at it tonight. i've got about 2.87 amps showing on my
voltmeter. went up front and started disconnecting power wires from he
power
distributor area (since i've got my battery in the bed). seems like it's
the
computer, or the factory wires. have everything else disconnected and
with
the 2 factory connections, the drain is still there.

are you saying, that if i've got the harness hanging underneath the
dash,
with no wires touching or anything, that you had dirt and water get into
your's and short them out somehow? i've still got the old dinger, maybe
i'll
just plug it back together and see if it disappears. i pulled the fuse,
like
you mentioned, but no help. so it may not be that dinger harness.

i'm not really wanting to go the route of making a quick disconnect. i'd
rather get this problem taken care of. is really gonna piss me off if
it's
the computer or something. cause this truck only had 6xxx miles on her.
no
excuse for a computer failure.

oh great!! will pass on what i find, and thanks,
parker
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 00:39:42 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F-350 solid axle

Ok guys,
It's been awhile since I've asked a question so I'm due.

My buddy is looking to buy a worn-out F-350 Dana 60 (not sure of the
year, late 80's) to swap into his '91 F-250HD 4x4. He says the
calipers are rusted to the rotors and such. I told him I didn't think
he could use the ones off the F-250 (he was hoping he could). He said
if he opened up the cover and water came out he wouldn't get it. So
here 'goes:

Fire one:
Can any of the brake components be used or retrofitted from the Dana
50?

Fire two:
If there is water in the case what would be the problems there?
- -Could you just replace the axle bearings/seals, shaft seals, etc.?
- -Would a new set of gears be in order even if they matched his
existing ratio?

Fire three:
- -I told him other than the axle and brakes from the donor he'd also
need the driveshaft (slightly shorter?) and some kind of stabilizer
arm (O.E.M. for the 350), is this right?

Fire four:
Is there any other pertinent info you guys might have?

Thanks,
Randy (Brew)
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 02:57:09 -0500
From: "BigRed"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Visor

I've got one on my truck and my last truck and I've had problems with both.
My last truck cracked down the middle and ripped a hole in the roof the size
of a golf ball right after I bought the truck. Got it fixed and the body
shop guy said that all of the bolts were loose which caused that problem.
Apparently they tend to loosen up after time goes by. The truck I have now
had a visor on too and as soon as I got it I made sure to check all the
bolts right away (all tight!). After a while it started to leak through the
front middle bolts. Brought to body shop and got fixed, no prob now. Even
though I've had these problems I'd still put one on my next truck. I just
like them too much. I wouldn't worry about the automatic car wash thing too
much either. There are always kids looking to make a buck or two who are
willing to wash it for you if you're too lazy to do it yourself.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wallace, Craig
To: 80-96 Ford Trucks
Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 12:54 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Visor


>Hello, All!
>
>I'm the owner of a 1994 F150 XLT and would eventually like to add a visor.
>Has anybody recently added one? If so, where did you buy it? What was the
>price? Is there an on-line resource where I can browse thru different
>variations? I've looked, but have found nothing.
>
>To those who have had one for a while, would you suggest getting one? Are
>there any negatives of having one installed? Would you do it again? Is it
>a
>do-it-yourself job? Did you notice much difference in your gas mileage
(how
>much drag does it create?)?
>
>I would appreciate any information concerning visors. I think they look
>awesome.
>
>Thanks!
>Craig
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html....


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