80-96-list-digest Friday, September 11 1998 Volume 02 : Number 313



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - re:Radius arm bushings
FTE 80-96 - No subject given
Re: FTE 80-96 - front end shimmy?
FTE 80-96 - 1980 F-150 300CID - Vacuum Hoses
FTE 80-96 - steering box e-250
FTE 80-96 - drive to school
Re: FTE 80-96 - drive to school
Re: FTE 80-96 - steering box e-250
FTE 80-96 - exhaust manifold problem on 460
Re: FTE 80-96 - front end shimmy?
FTE 80-96 - radius arm bushings/pivot arm bushings
FTE 80-96 - HUBS

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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 09:30:34 -0700
From: "Bowman, John A"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re:Radius arm bushings

Had the radius arm bushings replaced in my '83 F100 last spring by the
dealer and they did it without drilling out the rivets.

*************************************
J.A. Bowman
'83 F100 "Big Red"
email: jbowman MTT.CA
************************************


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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 98 08:49:15 -0500
From: jones.chris mail.mccg.org
Subject: FTE 80-96 - No subject given

Does FORD have a web site where I might get a vacuum holes diagram for
a 1986 f150 with a straight six, single carb? Thanks. fax# 9126335000


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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 10:50:41 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - front end shimmy?

Joe Mintz wrote:
>
> Hey everybody, hope everyone's doing well. I have a problem, and a
> question regarding it. I own a '95 F-250HD with the 460, E40D (uck),
> super cab 4X2. It now has 103,000 on the odo. Ever since it was
> purchased, new, by myself, there has been a sort of "jiggle" in the
> steering when on the highway when I hit a small to moderate bump. It
> feels like free play in the gearbox (not a tight steering feel at all),
> I'd say there's about an inch of free play when this happens. I've
> already replace the entire steering linkage 95K miles, but it turned
> out (after $235.00) that the old linkage was barely broken in...Today,
> on a trip back from Vegas to Los Angeles (btw, I won nothing ;-( ), I
> hit a large bump. The steering went wacko, I had to muscle the wheel to
> keep it from losing control. The steering wheel was trying to go
> left-right-left, rapidly when I hit the bump (very scary)! It felt like
> the I-beams were bouncing up, down, left and right all the same
> time??? It scared the *&^$ outta my girlfriend and myself. I am very
> concerned about this problem, and trust the great advice of the other
> members of this post. I'm thinking it's steering gearbox or bushing (I
> beam pivot) related, anyone else on the post experience this problem, or
> have any suggestions. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
> in advance.
> Joe
> vehicle described above...

I would bet your passengers side radius arm bushing is just about
totally destroyed. The exhaust system is to close and the heat destroys
it! Doesn't sound like all of your problembut I bet its part of it!
Chris
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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 08:59:18 -0700
From: "Dwayne Stewart"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1980 F-150 300CID - Vacuum Hoses

My problem is that I have owned the truck for about three years. The last
owner rigged things rather than fixing them. The truck has also been
painted, and during the painting the stickers that are usually under the
hood were removed. This last weekend I replaced the carb. While I was
working on the carb. I noticed that several vacuum hoses were missing and
others were cracked. There is a "valve" that screws into the exhaust
manifold area. The valve looks kind of like this:

----/ /---/ /---/ /----
|
----\ \---\ \---\ \------

All of the vacuum hoses originate here. There is one going to the tranny,
one to the carb., one to the vacuum advance, one to the brake drum, one to a
likage that looks like some kind of valve to let allow vacuum to escape if
the truck is "floored", one to the "vacuum pump/emmissions".


There is a vacuum "valve" that attaches to the goose neck where the upper
radiator hose attaches to the block it looks kind of like:

----
=== |
| |
=== |
| |
=== |
| |
=== |
| |

This valve has been isolated from the rest of the system. This was done by
all of the hoses being removed from this and there is a small hose from the
bottom to the top and one connecting the two middle connectors.

What are the important components to be connected to the vacuum system and
what doesn't matter?

I have recently changed the plugs and set the timing. The truck starts
easily and runs great while driving. However, at idle it is rough and the
truck diesels when the ignition is turned off. Any suggestions?

Thanx!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Cannon
To: Dwayne Stewart
Date: Wednesday, September 09, 1998 9:09 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 1980 F-150 Vacuum Hose Diagram


>Dwayne-
>
>I have this engine in my truck, and I have a full set of factory shop
>manuals, which I am always happy to fax pages out of.
>
>However, I think the sticker under the hood is your best bet to get things
>right for your vehicle. I will check, but I do not think they even include
>a vacuum hose diagram in the shop manual. They include a lot of words
>describing the various parts...
>
>You wrote:
>"Does anyone have a ford factory service manual on a 1980 F150 with a
>straight six(300CID) and single barrel carburetor? I need a vacuum hose
>diagram. If so would please fax me the diagram. Thanks. fax# 425-640-1226"
>
>
>Jim Cannon
>Houston, TX
>
>"Do not criticise a man until you have walked a mile in his shoes.
> That way, you'll be a mile away, and, you'll have his shoes!"

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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 12:13:50 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - steering box e-250

hello everyone,
i have a 89 e-250 van, with 179k on it. i have alot of play in my steering.i
had the front end checked and the guy told me that the steering box was worn.
can i buy a new or rebulit one? and how hard is it to install?and if possible
how much does it cost?
thanks for the info.
joe
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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 09:51:32 PDT
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - drive to school

Made it to Fairbanks w/o any problems (not even a flat). I actually
made really good mileage (83 f-250 reg cab, 4spd man, 351W) over the 663
miles, I averaged 12mpg. Even without a fifth speed, is does good. I
don't have a tach, so I don't where I was running, but 12 mpg for an old
truck like that suprised me. I am still winterizing it, and all that is
left is the tranny. Currently I have 75W - 90 in it. Should I leave it
neutral when I park and let it warm up,(when it gets really cold) or
others have said to use synthetic. Is there any harm in leaving it out
of gear and warming it up?

Thanks
Casey

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 12:31:05 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - drive to school

Casey Vandor wrote:

> Made it to Fairbanks w/o any problems (not even a flat). I actually
> made really good mileage (83 f-250 reg cab, 4spd man, 351W) over the 663
> miles, I averaged 12mpg. Even without a fifth speed, is does good. I
> don't have a tach, so I don't where I was running, but 12 mpg for an old
> truck like that suprised me. I am still winterizing it, and all that is
> left is the tranny. Currently I have 75W - 90 in it. Should I leave it
> neutral when I park and let it warm up,(when it gets really cold) or
> others have said to use synthetic. Is there any harm in leaving it out
> of gear and warming it up?

Casey,
Good to hear from you again.
Yeah there is an advantage, you don't have to put your foot
on the clutch. :-) No, I don't see any advantage either way except
it will help save your clutch some if you have it out of gear with
your foot on the brake. Also, you probably know this, but I'm a
go'n to tell ya anyways. DON'T PUT YOUR EMERGENCY BRAKE
ON after driving to home/school if you just went through some water
or slush. Plays havoc a few hours later or in the morning when your
trying to get to a beer store and the rear wheels are frozen. :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 14:26:25 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - steering box e-250

JSC721 aol.com wrote:

> hello everyone,
> i have a 89 e-250 van, with 179k on it. i have alot of play in my steering.i
> had the front end checked and the guy told me that the steering box was worn.
> can i buy a new or rebulit one? and how hard is it to install?and if possible
> how much does it cost?
> thanks for the info.

Joe,
I understand they are even pretty expensive at a junkyard. I think
a good price is around $125.00-$150.00 for a used one, but don't
quote me on that. Not sure what a new one costs. I havn't installed
one so can't give ya any info.


- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 15:51:30 EDT
From: Goatfamily aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - exhaust manifold problem on 460

Can anyone give me some information with regard to my Ford 460 exhaust
manifold leaks. I have heard so many different causes, and I like to get a
second opinion. This 460 engine is in a Ford motor home chassis.

A motor home dealer told me this is a common problem for a Ford 460 engine. He
also said that Ford at one time had so called recall on this problem. Does
anyone know if there was a recall? If there was a recall what are the details
about it?

I was also told by several aftermarket OEM's that Ford use grade 5 bolts on
the exhaust headers and they snap off. They told me to use grade 8 bolts.
Does any one know anything about that?

I was told that the bolts ussally break the edge of the engine head, and that
you have to replace the heads with new or rebuilt ones. Has anyone
experienced that problem?

One dealer wants me to upgrade the exhaust manifolds to a new system by Banks
Engineering. He said I could gain up to 60 HP from the switch. Has anyone
experienced this type of upgrade?

Thank you,
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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 18:07:38 -0700
From: Ken Justice
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - front end shimmy?

Joe,

I have had some very bad shimmying experiences with my '96 F-150. I
would hit a bad bump or series of ridges in a road and I would have to
actually pull off the road and come to a complete stop in order to
regain control.

I had everything checked out underneath and all was fine, but it would
do it again under the above circumstances. I founf out that it was the
tires that was causing the problem. I run a very stiff bodied tire and
they were out of balance. I'd hit a certain type of bump and they would
"just take off."

I replaced the tires and the problem disappeared. But just recently I
experienced this shimmy again and had the tires rebalanced. It hasn't
happened again.

I will make sure I have them rebalanced on a regular basis from now on.
Your road warranty on your tires will pay for this if you bought one.

Regards,
Ken Justice
Discover the Working Mat!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.workingmat.com
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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 21:25:36 EDT
From: DHall8577 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - radius arm bushings/pivot arm bushings

In a message dated 98-09-10 06:50:59 EDT, you write:


both pivot bushings, radius arm and tie rod bushings. The alignment
shop made me aware of this after I replaced all my ball-joints
and told me they would charge me $600.00 to align it if I >>

What year and milage are these trucks that you are referring to? I can't
believe you need to replace these items already?! I have a 94 F-150 with
175,000 miles on it with original everything excepts brakes and tires. Even
the exhaust system is still original!

Dave
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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 19:26:39 -0400
From: Harold Bucks
Subject: FTE 80-96 - HUBS

I recently replaced my automatic hubs after getting stuck in the middle
of a muddy parking lot. No sweat, I said and then listened to the
familar grating sound of malfunctioning auto-hubs! That day I vowed to
replace them with manuals. A few weeks later I got a shiney new set of
Warn hubs and installed them. If you do the job yourself, take a
bottle/can of your favorite beverage along as the retaining rings that
hold the autohubs in can be trying but not impossible. As someone on
the list said - " get a set of oversized dental picks". Walmart sells
them very reasonable and well worth twice the price when doing this
job. I installed the Warns in my '95 Bronco and needed a "kit" to
install the old style bearing retainer nuts. I still think they are more
positive than the "new style". If you don't have the special socket,
you need to get one before starting the job. As for the manual hubs,
I'm pleased with them. Needed them a few times this summer and no more
clicking and clacking when backing around, etc. I still feel better....


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