80-96-list-digest Thursday, September 10 1998 Volume 02 : Number 312



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - re: Hubs
Re: FTE 80-96 - radius arm bushings/I-beam pivot bushings
FTE 80-96 - Re: Hubs
Re: FTE 80-96 - radius arm bushings/I-beam pivot bushings
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Hubs
FTE 80-96 - Body parts
[none]
FTE 80-96 - Re: (long)
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Atlanta Get-together at the Atlanta Motor Speedway
FTE 80-96 - front end shimmy?
Re: FTE 80-96 - front end shimmy?
FTE 80-96 - Re:favorite body styles

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Date: 9 Sep 98 07:06:02 EDT
From: CharlesASkarsaune eaton.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re: Hubs

Hello Mike,
I started that last go-round on hubs, so I'll answer this one. My hubs
look just
as you've described. That second "cover" is retained by a plain ended
snap ring. Take a flash light and look between the "cover" and the outer
hub - if you
turn the wheel over 360 degrees, you'll see the gap in the snap ring. This
snap
ring is a humdinger to get out since there are no tabs or ends to get a
grip on.
Let me know how those Warn hubs work out - I was going to order a set this
week,
because the hub on the passenger side is making the same "graunching" noise
that sent me down this road. Good luck.

Chuck


Hey all,

I realize that a long thread about 4x4 hubs recently ended, and the
last
thing I want to do is start another one, so I'll do what I can to make this
as specific as possible. Knowing me, it'll probably also be pretty wordy
as
well. ;)
I've opted for the Warn Premiums to replace the automatic hubs on my
'95
F-150. I've already had them replaced once when they were under warrantee,
and 5 months later they're starting to go again. That Ford factory
replacement is the source of my question.
Armed with the parts, installation instructions, a Haynes, a Chiltons,
and all my tools, I was ready to kick some hub. Things got strange when I
noticed that there were only three screws holding my cap on instead of the
5
that all the manuals said should be there. It's not like some were missing
either -- there were only holes for three of them. Forging ahead, I took
off the cover and found something that didn't match anything that any of
the
manuals talked about. Instead of seeing all the guts inside there, I saw
what can best be described as another cover. It was just a big, solid,
metal cover that the chrome one screws into. And this is where I'm stuck.
I don't see any screws, bolts, clips, or anything other than it's own
will-power holding it in place. I guess it could be pressure-fitted, but
that just doesn't seem right since the outer cover screws into it. I
figure
it would have to be held in place by some other method.
Anybody have any ideas? I'd hate to have to bring it somewhere, but at
the same time, I'm a little stuck.
Thanks in advance!

- - -Mike

- -------------
Original Text
From: C=US/A=INTERNET/DDA=ID/80-96-list(a)ford-trucks.com, on 09/09/1998
06:50 AM:
A long message has been sent as an enclosure...

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 07:43:23 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - radius arm bushings/I-beam pivot bushings

Garr&Pam wrote:

> I am getting ready to replace my Ibeam pivot bushing and radius arm
> bushings on my 94 Lightning with polyurethane bushings from energy
> suspensions. First off Ford has a TSB on the from rrrivots should I take
> this opportunity to drill them out and replce them with bolts... this is
> what Ford would do if I have them fix it. Second is there any
> secrets/problems involved with changing the bushings?

Garr,
Just a little information for ya. I too am going to have to change
both pivot bushings, radius arm and tie rod bushings. The alignment
shop made me aware of this after I replaced all my ball-joints
and told me they would charge me $600.00 to align it if I
let them do the bushings. I said NO WAY, I'll do it myself.
Anyways, here is a little info on Poly vs Rubber. Rubber is
supposed to hold up better for off-roading and Poly should
hold up better for on-roading. The information I have is that
the Poly is too brittle and just doesn't hold up to the articulations,
and oscillations that the rubber ones will. Likewise with the
on-road ones. The Poly's are better because they have the strength
for longevity of single movement(basically linear).

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 10:10:12 -0400
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Hubs

Thanks for all the info. I'm going to give these hubs another shot, but
due to having too many hobbies and the constraint of having only 24 hours in
a day, I won't be able to get around to it until Sunday.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again!

- -Mike

- -----Original Message-----
From: CharlesASkarsaune eaton.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, September 09, 1998 7:31 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re: Hubs


Hello Mike,
I started that last go-round on hubs, so I'll answer this one. My hubs
look just
as you've described. That second "cover" is retained by a plain ended
snap ring. Take a flash light and look between the "cover" and the outer
hub - if you
turn the wheel over 360 degrees, you'll see the gap in the snap ring. This
snap
ring is a humdinger to get out since there are no tabs or ends to get a
grip on.
Let me know how those Warn hubs work out - I was going to order a set this
week,
because the hub on the passenger side is making the same "graunching" noise
that sent me down this road. Good luck.

Chuck


Hey all,

I realize that a long thread about 4x4 hubs recently ended, and the
last
thing I want to do is start another one, so I'll do what I can to make this
as specific as possible. Knowing me, it'll probably also be pretty wordy
as
well. ;)
I've opted for the Warn Premiums to replace the automatic hubs on my
'95
F-150. I've already had them replaced once when they were under warrantee,
and 5 months later they're starting to go again. That Ford factory
replacement is the source of my question.
Armed with the parts, installation instructions, a Haynes, a Chiltons,
and all my tools, I was ready to kick some hub. Things got strange when I
noticed that there were only three screws holding my cap on instead of the
5
that all the manuals said should be there. It's not like some were missing
either -- there were only holes for three of them. Forging ahead, I took
off the cover and found something that didn't match anything that any of
the
manuals talked about. Instead of seeing all the guts inside there, I saw
what can best be described as another cover. It was just a big, solid,
metal cover that the chrome one screws into. And this is where I'm stuck.
I don't see any screws, bolts, clips, or anything other than it's own
will-power holding it in place. I guess it could be pressure-fitted, but
that just doesn't seem right since the outer cover screws into it. I
figure
it would have to be held in place by some other method.
Anybody have any ideas? I'd hate to have to bring it somewhere, but at
the same time, I'm a little stuck.
Thanks in advance!

- - -Mike

- -------------
Original Text
From: C=US/A=INTERNET/DDA=ID/80-96-list(a)ford-trucks.com, on 09/09/1998
06:50 AM:
A long message has been sent as an enclosure...

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 10:18:13 -0400
From: John Kanyan
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - radius arm bushings/I-beam pivot bushings

Garr...radius bushings are no problem I've done lots of them pivot bushings
on the other hand can be difficult at times tho. When I replace rivets I
always loctite them I have seen them come loose and you start to get an
anoying rattle.Goodluck.....John>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 11:00:46 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Hubs

Michael J. Pasznik, Jr. wrote:

> Thanks for all the info. I'm going to give these hubs another shot, but
> due to having too many hobbies


I think the technical term here is " Hunny Do List ". :-)

Look forward to your report Mike.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 15:31:01 -0500
From: "Chad A. Dietrich"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Body parts

Does anyone know of a website that has body parts for the F-150's. And a
site that has varios stock equipment

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 14:31:45 PDT
From: "Jeremy Taylor"
Subject: [none]

I'm new to the list and I'm very impressed with the know-how that you
guys have! That's why I'm coming to you for help here.

I have an 88 F-250 4x4 with a 460 and a C6. I just had the tranny
replaced and at the same time, the rear main seal. It had been spraying
bad. When I got it back, the mechanic said that it was still going to
spray, because the rear main bearing was shot, allowing the crank to
wobble. Now what? Can I do the bearing without pulling the engine?
What is this going to take?

Second problem: I recently noticed the driver's side valve cover gasket
leaking, so I replaced it. During the job, i noticed that the number
eight cylinder had been missing (plug check), but couldn't find anything
wrong with the rocker arm-valve spring. It fixed it for 200 miles, but
now the cover is leaking again. What has caused this? Is there
something seriously wrong in the cylinder (broken rings) somehow
pressurizing the valve cover? How else would it start leaking twice,
directly above a misfiring cylinder?

Any help is greatly appreciated. From here on out, it's all up to me.
There's no more money for the mechanic's shop anymore.

Jeremy

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 14:50:01 -0700
From: Robert Kennedy
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: (long)

Jeremy,

First problem,
A wobbly crank/bad main bearing will probably do more than leak a little
oil. If the rear main bearing is shot, the whole engine would need to be
rebuilt. I'm not altogether sure the mechanic was legit on that comment.

Second problem,
Bad rings wouldn't cause oil pressure to build up under the valve cover
gasket. This problem usually points to burnt or improperly seated valves.
The FIRST thing to check though would be the PCV valve. It should plug into
the valve cover and have a hose routing to the intake. this valve relieves
the Crankcase pressure.

As far as the plug fouling, clean the plug up and check the gap in it. If
you don't have a feeler gauge, pull out the one next to it and compare 'em.
If it's gapped ok, then you may have a ring problem (oiling)


Hope this helps,

Bob


When I got it back, the mechanic said that it was still going to
>spray, because the rear main bearing was shot, allowing the crank to
>wobble. Now what?
>
>Second problem: I recently noticed the driver's side valve cover gasket
>leaking, so I replaced it. During the job, i noticed that the number
>eight cylinder had been missing (plug check), but couldn't find anything
>wrong with the rocker arm-valve spring. It fixed it for 200 miles, but
>now the cover is leaking again.
>______________________________________________________
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 21:27:19 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Atlanta Get-together at the Atlanta Motor Speedway

Sorry that I didn't get in touch with the people I promised to
call about this. Been working late.

Anyways, for the FTE gathering at the Atlanta Motor Speedway
(US Ford Truck Fest).....

We'll meet Saturday at 3 at the main entrance ticket office.
This is by the club house and condos, Richard Petty statue is
out front.

Mail me if you intend to be there and I'll send you my phone
number so we can chat. I'd like to bring some folding chairs
and perhaps sit down and chat over a late lunch/early dinner.

Peggy and I will be wearing yellow F100 Supernationals t-shirts.
Just look for the heavy guy with brown hair and a beard (ok, not
a good description, there are a million people like that at
truck shows).

Regards,
Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com




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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 20:21:41 -0700
From: Joe Mintz
Subject: FTE 80-96 - front end shimmy?

Hey everybody, hope everyone's doing well. I have a problem, and a
question regarding it. I own a '95 F-250HD with the 460, E40D (uck),
super cab 4X2. It now has 103,000 on the odo. Ever since it was
purchased, new, by myself, there has been a sort of "jiggle" in the
steering when on the highway when I hit a small to moderate bump. It
feels like free play in the gearbox (not a tight steering feel at all),
I'd say there's about an inch of free play when this happens. I've
already replace the entire steering linkage 95K miles, but it turned
out (after $235.00) that the old linkage was barely broken in...Today,
on a trip back from Vegas to Los Angeles (btw, I won nothing ;-( ), I
hit a large bump. The steering went wacko, I had to muscle the wheel to
keep it from losing control. The steering wheel was trying to go
left-right-left, rapidly when I hit the bump (very scary)! It felt like
the I-beams were bouncing up, down, left and right all the same
time??? It scared the *&^$ outta my girlfriend and myself. I am very
concerned about this problem, and trust the great advice of the other
members of this post. I'm thinking it's steering gearbox or bushing (I
beam pivot) related, anyone else on the post experience this problem, or
have any suggestions. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
in advance.
Joe
vehicle described above...

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 20:45:44 -0700
From: Robert Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - front end shimmy?

You definitely are having a little problem there. It sounds like a
suspension problem versus a steering problem. It sounds like a good idea to
check the I-Beams, have a look at the radius arms/bushings as well. You
could also try rocking the tire., with the wheel on the ground grab the top
and pull outward, then grab either side and try to twist left/right. This
may uncover somethimg. As far as tugging and pulling on the I-Beam/Radius
arms, you are better off having it sitting on a rack....PLEASE BE CAREFUL...

Bob


At 08:21 PM 9/9/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Hey everybody, hope everyone's doing well. I have a problem, and a
>question regarding it. I own a '95 F-250HD with the 460, E40D (uck),
>super cab 4X2.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 23:11:50 -0600
From: "Randy Kindler"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:favorite body styles

>My personal opinion is that the '97's and newer are really ugly!
I thought the 97s were really ugly when they first came out, but I guess
they grew on me. I like them now. I also like the 92-96, and I liked the....


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