80-96-list-digest Saturday, September 5 1998 Volume 02 : Number 307



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Six cyl exhaust note
Re: FTE 80-96 - Temperature Sender Location - 5.0 engine
FTE 80-96 - No subject given
FTE 80-96 - Windshield Wiper Switch
Re: FTE 80-96 - Windshield Wiper Switch
Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake hose, line question
Re: FTE 80-96 - F-250 growling noise
Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake hose, line question
Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake hose, line question
Re: FTE 80-96 - Temperature Sender Location - 5.0 engine
Re: FTE 80-96 - A really silly question
Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake hose, line question
FTE 80-96 - ZF Industries & Ford Replacement Transmissions
Re: FTE 80-96 - my 5.0 is dying
Re: FTE 80-96 - my 5.0 is dying
Re: FTE 80-96 - Temperature Sender Location - 5.0 engine

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Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 07:28:31 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Six cyl exhaust note

sbest wrote:

> a V8, instead it was just a mighty WHAAAAAAAA. (as best can be described
> in print)

*.WAV file please :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 07:37:17 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Temperature Sender Location - 5.0 engine

Bob & Jay Hartman-Berrier wrote:

> I understand this goes directly (and only) to the temperature guage, and
> that the temperature sensor for the computer unit (ECU?) is different. If
> so, would it hurt to drive it if just the sensor for the guage is bad? How
> would the engine run if the sensor for the computer is bad?
>
> Thanks for your help,

Bob,
IMO. it shouldn't make a differnce as to how it runs. Only that
you will be getting the computer codes telling you, that there is
a bad sensor. The sensor should only detect whether or not the
temperature gauge is working okay or not.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Fri, 04 Sep 98 08:36:14 -0500
From: jones.chris mail.mccg.org
Subject: FTE 80-96 - No subject given

What is a super flow cat. converter? Thanks.





I have a 300 six cylinder with stock manifold a super flow cat.
converter, a small glasspack and flex pipe,Little Y to make twin pipes
out the back with 3 1/2" tips. All of my friends love them,and it
sound's qite nice to.
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Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 8:14:26 -0800
From: callah S1.hninc.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Windshield Wiper Switch

Since we are getting a few thunderstorms (which is unusual for Orange
county) lately I've needed to use my windshield wipers again and this has
reminded me of a question I've had for some time now. Intermittent
wipers were an option on the 1981 F-150. My '81 has the standard
two-speed wiper switch. Is the "intermittent" option a function of the
switch or the wiper motor? In other words can I upgrade my wipers to
intermittent just by replacing the switch or is it a much larger problem?

Gary Callahan
'81 F-150 Custom 4x4
(300cid I-6)

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Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 11:34:28 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Windshield Wiper Switch

callah S1.hninc.com wrote:
> Intermittent
> wipers were an option on the 1981 F-150. My '81 has the standard
> two-speed wiper switch. Is the "intermittent" option a function of the
> switch or the wiper motor? In other words can I upgrade my wipers to
> intermittent just by replacing the switch or is it a much larger problem?
>
On my '81, I installed an aftermarket intermittant module that I bought
at Canadian Tire for about $35.00. It entailed drilling a hole in the
firewall to run three wires (or five wires had I bothered to hook up the
wahser fluid level low warning feature) and a couple of tiny holes inthe
dash to mount the module. Yu acn get waway with not doing the holes in
the dash and just stick it on with double sided tape, I suppose.

It works allright, though it does two sweeps on each cycle instead of
one. The module has an adjustment on it like a volume control knob. An
'off' dedent which lets the wipers operate normally, and then as you
'turn it up' the delay between wipes becomes greater and greater. For
intermittant to operate, you turn the regular wiper switch to low and
adjust the intermittant knob. Could be slicker, but not bad. The hardest
part was identifying the wires (and when a couple of them do a twist
_RIGHT_ after the connector and you get them mixed up it's very
confusing :/ ) and climing in and out of the engine compartment over and
over and over ....

[snip a few pages of "over and over" ;-) ]

.... and over again while reaching the wires,
testing, voltmetering, turning the switch on and off and low and high
and.....

- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 12:00:33 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake hose, line question

Andre Roy wrote:

> How the jumpin' do I get the hose off? I tourqed till I thought I was
> going to break something, I loosened the brake line (steel one) but that
> just staarted twisting the steel line, again A Bad Thing. The Haynes
> manual is little help ("remove clip" What Clip?)

The clip they are referring to is the one that should be on the
inside of the fenderwell where the steel line connects to the rubber
line from the caliper. And it can be a pain to get off.



> Sigh, so what am I asking after all this babbling.
>
> Well, anyone have any diagnostics they can give me on plain old Power
> front disks/rear drums?

A problem I have is the break booster. If you press on the brakes
and here a constant vacuum/hissing noise until you let up off the
break pedal then your booster is shot. I am in need of a new one
myself. Oh, the booster is what the master cylinder is bolted too.


- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 12:26:55 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F-250 growling noise

Robert Smallwood wrote:

> My otherwise perfect 95 F-250 PS seems to have developed a new "noise"
> when turning sharply left. There is a growling or rubbing sound whenever
> I turn sharp left on pavement. It is hard to define whether the sound

Rob,
Any chance you recently put on new/larger tires and havn't fully
locked them in either direction until now ? My Bronco since I put
on the larger mudders rubs a lot more on one side and hardly on
the otherside at full lock.


Does it do it when you are at a standstill and turning at full lock ?

Does it do it when you are moving and turning at full lock ?

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 13:46:20 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake hose, line question

Rick Wojciechowski wrote:
>
> Andre Roy wrote:
>
> > How the jumpin' do I get the hose off? I tourqed till I thought I was
> > going to break something, I loosened the brake line (steel one) but that
> > just staarted twisting the steel line, again A Bad Thing. The Haynes
> > manual is little help ("remove clip" What Clip?)
>
> The clip they are referring to is the one that should be on the
> inside of the fenderwell where the steel line connects to the rubber
> line from the caliper. And it can be a pain to get off.
>
Thank you.

> > Sigh, so what am I asking after all this babbling.
> >
> > Well, anyone have any diagnostics they can give me on plain old Power
> > front disks/rear drums?
>
> A problem I have is the break booster. If you press on the brakes
> and here a constant vacuum/hissing noise until you let up off the
> break pedal then your booster is shot. I am in need of a new one
> myself. Oh, the booster is what the master cylinder is bolted too.
>
I had something like that. A big hissing sound until you press the
pedal. It's not all that hard to replace the booster. Quite easy,
actually. But you need a _deep_ 9/16th socket. You'll also need a pair
of needle nose pliers and a 9/16th combination wrench. Oh, a good
vocabulary heavy if four letter words can be an asset ;-).

Use the combo wrench to remove the nuts holding the master cylinder to
the booster.
(An aside here, store the nuts in a safe place, not the top of the
fender or something, especially if you're working on the lawn and don't
ask ;-)

Lie down on the floor of the truck. Undo the clip that holds the brake
switch to the pedal assembly and jiggle the switch loose and the pushbar
from the pedal to the booster.

Get your ratchet and _deep_ 9/16th and undo the four nuts that hold the
booster to the firewall.

Push the master cylinder out of the way being careful not to kink the
brake lines, pull out the booster.

To install the new one, read these steps backwards ;-)

And no, my brake problems didnt start after replacing the booster.
- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 13:12:39 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake hose, line question

Andre Roy wrote:

> Rick Wojciechowski wrote:
> >
> > Andre Roy wrote:
> >
> > > How the jumpin' do I get the hose off? I tourqed till I thought I was
> > > going to break something, I loosened the brake line (steel one) but that
> > > just staarted twisting the steel line, again A Bad Thing. The Haynes
> > > manual is little help ("remove clip" What Clip?)
> >
> > The clip they are referring to is the one that should be on the
> > inside of the fenderwell where the steel line connects to the rubber
> > line from the caliper. And it can be a pain to get off.
> >
> Thank you.
>
>
> I had something like that. A big hissing sound until you press the
> pedal. It's not all that hard to replace the booster. Quite easy,
> actually. But you need a _deep_ 9/16th socket. You'll also need a pair
> of needle nose pliers and a 9/16th combination wrench. Oh, a good
> vocabulary heavy if four letter words can be an asset ;-).

I thought you said this was BRAKES-101. Now your telling
me how to put the booster on. So I guess you new what
I was talking about. :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 11:09:23
From: Bob & Jay Hartman-Berrier
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Temperature Sender Location - 5.0 engine

First, thanks to the folks who replied to my post about "just where the
heck is a 5.0's temperature sender".

Well, I found it! It was buried under the wiring assembly which goes along
the driver's side of the engine, next to the front-most fuel injector. I
had to disconnect all the wiring connectors, and I carefully moved the
harness aside. I was then able to get in with an 11/16 socket & extension,
and easily replace it. Now the temperature guage is reading where it
should.

My Chilton's was of sufficient help in that the wiring diagrams it has
showed the wiring to it as Red-White, so I looked for that particular wire,
found it, and traced the wire to the connector, which was underneath
everything!.

Again, thanks for your help,

Bob



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Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 07:46:22 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - A really silly question

Just tune in the station you want and then push in the preset button and
hold it in.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Brian J. Babiuk
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, August 23, 1998 3:35 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - A really silly question


>I know you guys will all be chuckling out loud once you read my question.
>
>I have a 1995 Ford F-150 XL which I bought used. Please keep in mind that
>this is my first Ford ever. It has an AM-FM radio (Factory issue), which I
>will replace eventually. However, since I don't have the "Stereo Manual"
>that was supposed to come with the vehicle if you purchased it new, how do
>you set the radio station "Pre-Set" buttons? I can't stand it!!! At least
>with the GM radios it had a set button! Please excuse my ignorance!
>-----------------------------------------------------------
>Brian J. Babiuk 19 Arbor Grove
>bbabiuk escape.ca Winnipeg, MB
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.escape.ca/~bbabiuk/ R2G 3R3
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Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 16:01:35 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake hose, line question

Rick Wojciechowski wrote:

> >
> >
> > I had something like that. A big hissing sound until you press the
> > pedal. It's not all that hard to replace the booster. Quite easy,
> > actually. But you need a _deep_ 9/16th socket. You'll also need a pair
> > of needle nose pliers and a 9/16th combination wrench. Oh, a good
> > vocabulary heavy if four letter words can be an asset ;-).
>
> I thought you said this was BRAKES-101. Now your telling
> me how to put the booster on. So I guess you new what
> I was talking about. :-)
>
Drats! Must have been that "four letter word" part that gave it away!
;-)

Actually, I don't know a lot about brakes, but the booster seemed pretty
straight forward, and in the four letter word part (multilingual
division), I'm pretty experienced....
- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 16:42:51 -0600
From: Fred Moreno
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ZF Industries & Ford Replacement Transmissions

Hi all,

Just FYI, I ran across an ad for AF Industries Inc. in the September issue
of Utility Fleet Management journal. In this ad they promote their
remanufactured 5-speed transmission for F-250, F-350, and F Super Duty
trucks. For those of you interested check out their Web site; www.zf.com.

I know nothing of this company so I cannot vouch for them except for the
appearance of the expensive 2 page ad they have at the front of this
publication.

I hope this helps someone out.

Have a good safe 3-day week-end.

Fred Moreno - 1995 F-150 EB, 4X4, 5.0L 5-speed, Dual Fueled
Autotronic Controls Corp. - Alternate Fuels Div
El Paso TX
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Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 19:24:30 -0500
From: "LeRoy Wolff"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - my 5.0 is dying

- ----------
> From: BigRed
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - my 5.0 is dying
> Date: Thursday, September 03, 1998 11:07 PM
>
if i rebuild and don't put a cam in it that is made for
> computer controlled vehicles what will it do aside from not idle right?
>
>

I think you should buy a long block engine made for the year model you have
and not mess around
with a different cam.

Of course it depends on how much money you have to throw at your Ford......

LeRoy Wolff
Wimbledon, North Dakota


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Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 22:25:59 -0500
From: "BigRed"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - my 5.0 is dying

- -----Original Message-----
From: LeRoy Wolff
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, September 04, 1998 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - my 5.0 is dying


>
>
>----------
>> From: BigRed
>> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>> Subject: FTE 80-96 - my 5.0 is dying
>> Date: Thursday, September 03, 1998 11:07 PM
>>
> if i rebuild and don't put a cam in it that is made for
>> computer controlled vehicles what will it do aside from not idle right?
>>
>>
>
>I think you should buy a long block engine made for the year model you have
>and not mess around
>with a different cam.
>
>Of course it depends on how much money you have to throw at your Ford......
>
>LeRoy Wolff
>Wimbledon, North Dakota
>I would buy a long block since I can get one at cost for $1100, but I
already had a bunch of stuff lying around ready for a rebuild so the rebuild
will basically only cost me the machine work and cam.
>
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>

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Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1998 00:34:00 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Temperature Sender Location - 5.0 engine

It will make a difference in how the engine runs because the engine uses
different settings when the engine is cold to keep it from stalling and then
modifies them when the engine warms up if the sensor is mistakenly telling
the engine that it is cold all the time you are going to have a higher idle
and a rich mixture.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Rick Wojciechowski
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, September 04, 1998 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Temperature Sender Location - 5.0 engine


>Bob & Jay Hartman-Berrier wrote:
>
>> I understand this goes directly (and only) to the temperature guage, and
>> that the temperature sensor for the computer unit (ECU?) is different.
If
>> so, would it hurt to drive it if just the sensor for the guage is bad?
How
>> would the engine run if the sensor for the computer is bad?
>>
>> Thanks for your help,
>
> Bob,....


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