80-96-list-digest Saturday, August 22 1998 Volume 02 : Number 292



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 cats; my brakes suck
FTE 80-96 - Ck Eng Light
FTE 80-96 - Brakes
RE: FTE 80-96 - F150 Needs more cooling.
FTE 80-96 - OBD II Information correction
FTE 80-96 - RE: More cooling
FTE 80-96 - RE: Old Faithful... or, gas tankus eruptus...
FTE 80-96 - Blinkers not working
Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 cats; my brakes suck
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: More cooling
Re: FTE 80-96 - Old Faithful... or, gas tankus eruptus...
FTE 80-96 - 1995 Explorer 4.0L Eddie Bauer
FTE 80-96 - Fw: 1995 Explorer 4.0L Eddie Bauer
FTE 80-96 - Re: fuel gauge problem
FTE 80-96 - F150 Needs more cooling
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Explorer 4.0L Eddie Bauer
FTE 80-96 - Towing a Fiat?
FTE 80-96 - RE:F150 needs more cooling
FTE 80-96 - RE: Door Hinge Roller Repair
FTE 80-96 - water in oil

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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 08:07:45 -0400
From: Larry Wiandt
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 cats; my brakes suck

I've got a 93 F350 CrewCab 4x4 and I too have battled the brake problem
since it was new. Unfortunately the only wat to fix the brakes is replace
the truck. I have talked to the Ford truck dealer in my area and several
people that have similar trucks. THey all say the same thing, the brakes
suck! I have finally given up and just drive accordingly as I really don't
want to replace the truck. Sorry but you're stuck.

Larry Wiandt
93 F350 Crew Cab 4x4


>Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 00:43:30 -0700
>From: Randy
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 cats; my brakes suck.
>
>Denis, see replies in body of message:
>
>Denis SIS wrote:
>>
>> Randy and list,
>>
>- -----snip-----
>
> My brakes suck. I have had everything
>> replaced, except the PB booster. A guy at a Firestone shop even
>> replaced my master cylinder with a 'bigger bore' one from a later model
>> truck about a month ago. No change. It takes lots of human pressure to
>> stop and the pedal feels spongy. Any suggestions? Does anyone out
>> there have a pedal that feels DOES NOT feel spongy? Also my 'Rear
>> Anti-lock' light on the dash is coming on. Sometimes if I set the
>> emergency brake, then release it, the light will turn off, but lately
>> that doesn't even work. Suggestions??
>
>
>This is gonna sound like one of those DUH!!! questions, but did you
>_thoroughly_ bleed all the brakes? Start w/the brake farthest from
>the master cylinder and work you way closer (farthest meaning the most
>brake line for the fluid to travel thru). Use an entire can if
>necessary since this will flush out any old or contaminated fluid too.

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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 08:15:04 -0500
From: "Stephen W. Hansen"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Ck Eng Light

>From: Fred Moreno
>Subject: [none]

>Hi all,
>Chuck writes,

>Any body know of a way to read the codes on a vehicle with the OBD system
>other than going to the dealer and forking over your bank account?
>My check engine light on my late 96 F150 4wd has come on and while
>it runs ok, I want to correct whatever has tripped it.
>Thanks in advance,
>Chuck

All emissions parts are suppose to be warrentied (by federal law) to 50,000
miles, so if you have a warrantee I would check into it. When I had my check
engine light come on, the ford dealer gave me a run-around. If they hooked
up the tester and the code was emissions related, it was covered by the
extended warranty. If the code wasn't emissions related, then I had to pay
the hook up fee. The light came on the first time on the test drive, and was
checked out with nothing found. (On the 92 year range, the code will clear
if you start the engine about 50 times with no new code coming up). Anyway,
on a long trip to my parents house, the light came on for long periods. I
followed the ford instructions, "Don't worry, get it to your ford dealer
when convenient," as my truck rolled over 50,000 on the return trip.
A nice mechanic ran the basic code check for no fee and told me it said the
truck was running rich. I talked with a mechanic at my work center and he
informed me that O2 sensors live span was about 50-60 thousand miles.
HMMMM.... O2 reading wrong, the computer trying to compensate...
I bought a new O2 sensor, and changed it. The old one had fine cracks on the
porcelain. My check engine light hasn't come on now for over 35,000 miles.
If the O2 sender isn't changed, it can cause the engine to run rich, and
clog up the catalic converter. I spent about 100 to do it myself, my dad
spent $700 to have a shop replace his sensor and catalitic converter

"that's my story and I'm sticking to it"
Steve Hansen
92 F-250

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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 08:19:12 -0500
From: "Stephen W. Hansen"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Brakes

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 00:43:30 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 cats; my brakes suck.

Denis, see replies in body of message:

Denis SIS wrote:
>
> Randy and list,
>
- - -----snip-----

My brakes suck. I have had everything
> replaced, except the PB booster. A guy at a Firestone shop even
> replaced my master cylinder with a 'bigger bore' one from a later model
> truck about a month ago. No change. It takes lots of human pressure to
> stop and the pedal feels spongy. Any suggestions? Does anyone out
> there have a pedal that feels DOES NOT feel spongy? Also my 'Rear
> Anti-lock' light on the dash is coming on. Sometimes if I set the
> emergency brake, then release it, the light will turn off, but lately
> that doesn't even work. Suggestions??

The brake light may need the anti-lock sensors replaced. Anyone else ever
worked on them?
Steve

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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 9:01:28 -0800
From: Gary Callahan
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - F150 Needs more cooling.

My '81 F-150 had the same problem. I replaced the stock five blade fan
with a seven blade "flex" fan (from Pep Boy's). The engine stays a lot
cooler now even when idling.

Gary Callahan
'81 F-150 Custom 4x4 (300cid I-6)

*****************************************************
Gary Callahan
Holmes & Narver, Inc.
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hninc.com
*****************************************************

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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 10:11:18 -0600
From: Fred Moreno
Subject: FTE 80-96 - OBD II Information correction

Hi all,

I omitted some important bit of information in my last posting, hope I did
not confuse or mislead anyone.
I stated that starting in 1996 Ford trucks have the OBD II system. Well
that applies only for the F-150 series. The F-250 and F-350 were still OBD
I, except in California. If you have a 1996 or 1997 3/4 or 1 ton chasis with
the older body style, then you most likely still have an OBD I system. With
these systems the Diagnostic connector can still have a jumper installed to
extract the codes using the Service Engine light. Anyone who needs these
procedures email me and I will be glad to fax them to you.
The Triton engine series are all OBD II so there is no confusion there. A
scanner is a must to communicate with the computer.

Have a good week-end, I'll be in the 4X4 mode around the Orogrande NM this
week-end. You know you're having serious fun when the spousal unit gets real
quiet and just stares straight ahead....

Fred Moreno, KD5AQB
Autotronic Controls Corp. - Alternate Fuels div.
Texas employed, but resident of the "Land of Enchantment"
1995 4X4 5.0L Eddie Bauer and lots of Propane on board.
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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 10:32:41 -0700
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: More cooling

My 1985 F-150 was ordered with the Super duty cooling package. In 1985
you had regular duty(std.), heavy duty, and super duty. The rad on my
truck is huge and the thermostatic fan NEVER freewheels. Even when below
zero outside the fan blade is stiff as hell to turn. I've never had any
cooling problems. Was 112 here two weeks ago. Never moved off center. I
am running synthethic oil also. Airflow and surface area are critical.
The syn. oil reducing friction significantly at ALL temps. Walt

P.S. mine a manual tranny.

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:56:56 -0700
From: "T. Higgins"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150 Needs more cooling.,...
[snip]

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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 98 10:29:38 PDT
From: "Mike Mueller"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Old Faithful... or, gas tankus eruptus...

Just a thought here...
I had a return valve / switch go bad and the result was the gas from the =
rear tank would get pump to the motor then instead of a return to the rea=
r tank again it would go to the front resulting in an overfilled front =
tank. I noticed this only when I had filled both and started with the =
rear first. Gas was making it's way past my '89 cap and flowing onto the=
street.

Maybe the same valve has gone bad but, perhaps you have a different syste=
m and better caps that seal which caused the tank to build pressure.

Another point, it may not be the muffler at all! I'm a part time Mountai=
neer, and we all know pure water at sea level at no pressure will boil =
at 100 c. But altitude will lower the boiling point, as will pressure. =
At 20,000ft. you can put your hand in boiling water no problem! So if =
gas boils at a certain temp at sea level you've lowered the point by bei=
ng at 10,000 and by having the pressure built up. So it really could hav=
e boiled but it wasn't the heat from the muffler.
Just a thought (or 2)

Thanks!

Mike Mueller
The Leasing Dept.
Equipment Leasing and Funding
www.leasingdept.com
"I want to die peacefully in my sleep like my Grandfather,
not screaming in terror like his passengers".

>It sounded like a pressure leak, upon crawling underneath to ck
>out this noise I saw it was a vent off the front gas tank,
>(this is the one that was in service).

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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 13:00:54 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Blinkers not working

Gang,
I am still trying to disect my electrical blinker problem.
I have made sure that all bulbs(front and back) are good
and all the fuses are good and I bought a new flasher. My
brake lights work fine but the turn signals are all screwed
up. Here are my symptoms.
When I mash on the brake I get a constant left turn light
for both front and back. That is with the key out of the ignition
and the flasher pulled out. Then when I turn the ignition on
then I still get the exact same thing still with the flasher in or out.
Now with ignition on and I mash on the brake I get that constant
left turn signal, but if I add the right turn signal then both stay
on constant. I reaLLY HATE elect problems and need help.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 14:01:53 EDT
From: A4T1RAT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 cats; my brakes suck

Remove all the anti-lock brakes and they will work great.....I have built
about a dozen F-350 and this works great.....I have a 92 F-350 dually that
will out stop my 95 mustang gt ...I have 3 F-350's now and I have done this
to all !


RAT..
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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 14:11:30 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: More cooling

Posluszny, Walt (POSL) wrote:
>
> My 1985 F-150 was ordered with the Super duty cooling package. In 1985
> you had regular duty(std.), heavy duty, and super duty.....
>
Ford Neophine alert! :)

How do I tell what cooling system I have. I went into Canadian Tire to
check on hoses etc for my 81 F150, 300CID, automatic. It gave the option
of Regular or Heavy duty. So how do I tell which one I have? At least
without comparing it to other trucks.

- --
Andre
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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 15:03:41 -0500
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Old Faithful... or, gas tankus eruptus...

Jeff Fisher wrote:

> Our camp site was 1 hours drive up a 4WD road (Poughkeepsie
> Gulch), 2nd gear low rang 4WD about 2500 to 3000 rpm for the trip.
>
> ... I popped the gas cap off
> to relieve said pressure and the damn gas started gushing out
>
> I deduced that the fuel in the tank was brought up to boiling
> temperature because of the long slow trip and the proximity of the huge
> muffler to the tank.

Certainly the muffler isn't helping, but what really heats the gas is the
fuel pump moving fuel up to the fuel rail on the engine, and then the fuel
pressure regulator bypassing it back to the tank.

The pump cools itself by heating passing fuel, and the engine heats it too.
This is a well known problem, but why was fuel actually spraying out, and
not just vapor? You've got me on that one.

- --
Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------


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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 18:16:26 -0500
From: "Justin Walters"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Explorer 4.0L Eddie Bauer

Greetings and salutations,

I've been reading this group's messages for about a month now, and enjoy the
discussions.

Anyways, on my Explorer I am trying to get a better flow of air into my air
filter.
I just installed a Filtercharger. A friend of mine told me there is a
baffle restricting
air into the filter in the canister. My goal is to get about as much air
flow into the
filter as possible, instead of going out and buying the FIPK "Fuel Injection
Performance Kit". Besides I like the sound of the air being vacuumed into
the
filter.

Specs...
4.0L
Cone filter
Filter holder is a round canister which leads into the passenger side
fender.

Regards,
Justin

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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 18:18:55 -0500
From: "Justin Walters"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fw: 1995 Explorer 4.0L Eddie Bauer

- -----Original Message-----
From: Justin Walters
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, August 21, 1998 6:16 PM
Subject: 1995 Explorer 4.0L Eddie Bauer


>Greetings and salutations,
>
>I've been reading this group's messages for about a month now, and enjoy
the
>discussions.
>
>Anyways, on my Explorer I am trying to get a better flow of air into my air
>filter.
>I just installed a Filtercharger. A friend of mine told me there is a
>baffle restricting
>air into the filter in the canister. My goal is to get about as much air
>flow into the
>filter as possible, instead of going out and buying the FIPK "Fuel
Injection
>Performance Kit". Besides I like the sound of the air being vacuumed into
>the
>filter.
>
>Specs...
>4.0L
>Cone filter
>Filter holder is a round canister which leads into the passenger side
>fender.
>
>Regards,
>Justin
>

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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 18:19:33 -0500
From: "Jram"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: fuel gauge problem

Older F series and E series and even early nineties Explorer and Ranger
models are notorious for the brass float on the fuel sender to get pinholes
in them and fill with fuel then sink giving a false reading. Just something
to think about.
jram swbell.net
www.ford-trucks.com/tfts


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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 19:12:23 -0500
From: Neal & Michele
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150 Needs more cooling

I have a '93 F150 w/same drivetrain, a/c, NO super cooling, and a rather small tranny cooler. I live in OK where it gets somewhat hot (some 100+ days w/ lots of 95+) and I never have the temp go more than 1/4 up the guage even in stop and go traffic. I think I would check your existing system for faults before attempting to add capacity. Are you sure the fan, water pump, and thermostat are functioning properly?

Neal

> T. Higgins wrote:
> >
> > Greetings all,
> >
> > I have a 96 F150 with the 302/Auto-OD (E40D?)and a 3.55 rear end. I recently moved to the southwest and drive regularly in temperatures over 100 F. When driving at freeway speeds with the AC on the temp gauge is approximately 1/2 way to hot (right on the little thermometer). When stopped the temperature starts to creep up. I have the "heavy duty cooling" which I believe is a two cell radiator (the largest I could find to install with the A/C before I moved). I would like to add additional cooling capacity and am considering some/all of the following. I would appreciate any thoughts or comments from those that have tried the same or have any additional ideas or insight.
> >...
> > P.S. I have what I believe is a larger tranny fluid cooler (not attached to the radiator). Should I get a bigger one? I don't use my truck for any towing or really heavy hauling.



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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 21:26:49 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Explorer 4.0L Eddie Bauer

At 06:16 PM 8/21/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Greetings and salutations,
>
>I've been reading this group's messages for about a month now, and enjoy the
>discussions.
>
>Anyways, on my Explorer I am trying to get a better flow of air into my air
>filter.
>I just installed a Filtercharger. A friend of mine told me there is a
>baffle restricting
>air into the filter in the canister. My goal is to get about as much air
>flow into the
>filter as possible, instead of going out and buying the FIPK "Fuel Injection
>Performance Kit". Besides I like the sound of the air being vacuumed into
>the
>filter.
>
>Specs...
>4.0L
>Cone filter
>Filter holder is a round canister which leads into the passenger side
>fender.
>
>Regards,
>Justin
>

Justin,

Don't know if you're aware of this but we have a list taylored
for small chassis trucks (Ranger, Explorer, Bronco II and Aerostar).
You may find the conversation more to your liking.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 22:46:49 -0400
From: "msalvetti"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Towing a Fiat?

A couple of days ago Ron Madurski wrote:

>I was getting 19 MPG around town and 16 towing an 18 ft steel trailer
>with a Fiat on it. I'll see how the next tank does and let y'all know
>where it ends up.

Hey Ron, is this your way of dealing with Fiat's legendary reliability?
Just kidding. Is it a Dino?

Mark
1986 F150
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Date: 21 Aug 1998 20:57:08 EDT
From: Hawk sktc.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:F150 needs more cooling

Ive thought about mounting 2 radiators, one behind the other. I was
going to run them in parallel, however. To run them in series would
require more plumbing, IMHO. I never have, because I've always found a
radiator that would do the job. GDI makes a bolt in kick butt radiator
that they call the "Heat Buster". It is a copper-brass 4 row radiator
that will cure heating problems on late model pick-ups. (Chevy really
has alot of problems running hot). If you don't have a problem like a
bad fan clutch or a bad thermostat, you might look at one of these. I
am not associated with GDI in any way, other than being a satisfied
customer.

If you have driven off road, you might also look for trash build up
between the AC condenser and radiator. Good Luck. Buck Shoff


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Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 01:01:50 -0100
From: "John Thornton"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Door Hinge Roller Repair

Someone asked on an earlier posting about a repair for a door hinge.
This was my solution to the problem (didn't take long to find a quick fix
after a couple of good wacks on the shin bone).
1. Drive the pin out . You will have to notch the hinge below the hole or
it will not come out. Take care not bang on that pretty truck either.
2. Go to hardware store and get a hard plastic wheel (I think it is 15/16"
in diameter). I used two of the1" wheels from an sliding closet door with
an overhead track.
3. Get a 1/4'" bolt about 2" long with it being only half threaded.
Measure the bolt next to the pin and add about 1/4" and cut it off.
4. Grind one side of the bolt cap flat so it will fit in from top and grind
top down alittle so it will fit under hinge catch. ( You may have to notch
top brace to get it in or you might can push on door enough to get it by).
5. If wheel is to thick hole to hole grind or file down. If hole is to
small 1/4" drill will fix that.
Hope this can be of help to some of you out there and hope you don't
have anymore busted shins.

Pat Thornton
93 F150 SCab 302 AOD 127k
(still going strong)

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Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 02:34:46 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - water in oil....

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