80-96-list-digest Friday, August 21 1998 Volume 02 : Number 291



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
majordomo ford-trucks.com
with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list-digest" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - broke power windows
[none]
RE: FTE 80-96 - broke power windows
FTE 80-96 - F150 Needs more cooling.,...
FTE 80-96 - RE:OBD-II check engine light
Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Needs more cooling.,...
FTE 80-96 - Re: Fuel System De-pressurization
Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Needs more cooling.,...
Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 cats; my brakes suck.
Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Front Axle U-joints
Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Needs more cooling.,...
FTE 80-96 - Old Faithful... or, gas tankus eruptus...

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:17:25 -0500
From: "Vic"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - broke power windows

both my power windows died. They'll go down, but not up - I have to "help"
them back up. It's a 90 F150. I took the panels off and it looks like a
pain in the rump to fix. Drilling out the rivets and all - or is there an
easier way to just replace the plastic gears without taking the motor out.
Both motors sound good, but you can hear a thump thump thump when trying to
get the window to go up like the gear may be stepped. If fixing it myself
isn't worth the hassle, how much should I expect to spend?

Also, how much do the quarter length sleeper shells run?

-Vic Erwin
www.webdigs.com

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:01:37 -0600
From: Fred Moreno
Subject: [none]

Hi all,
Chuck writes,

Any body know of a way to read the codes on a vehicle with the OBD
system
other than going to the dealer and forking over your bank account?
My check engine light on my late 96 F150 4wd has come on and while
it runs ok, I want to correct whatever has tripped it.
Thanks in advance,
Chuck

As of 1996 when the On-Board- Diagnostics II (OBD II) hit the market for
Ford trucks the only way to extract the codes is with a compatible scanner.
Yes, the Ford dealership will enjoy charging you for this service, but
please if you do choose this route, have them give you a printout listing
all codes stored in memory. Its your $$, don't take their word if they say
"...you have an O2 code..." because with the OBD II system there are 10
different O2 codes. You need the specific Diagnaostic Trouble Code (DTC)
listed. This is also good to have in case you keep a file on your vehicle.
You can also go to some shop equipped with a scanner, it does not have to be
the New Generation Star Tester (Ford dealership brand of scanner). Most OBD
II compatible scanners ( OTC, Snap-On or any other OBD II compatible scanner
to include GM's DRB - Oh No Mr. Bill !! ) will be able to interface with
your trucks computer using either the Ford or the OBD II Generic under the
selection menu.
If you have not noticed any drivability degradation it is probably a minor
situation that will eventually lead to more emisions because some sensor has
exceeded its normal operating parameters.

Take care

Fred Moreno
Autotronic Controls Corp - Alternate Fuel div.
El Paso TX
If it Ain't Habanero, it ain't Hot!
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:03:35 -0600
From: "Brian Soderblom"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - broke power windows

There's a plastic gear in the assembly attached to the motor. Take off the
door panels, drill out the dimples over the bolts holding in the motor (two
dimples, 5/16 bolts, so drill to fit) remove the three bolts, take out the
motor. Remove the cover on the gear assembly (this is attached to the
motor) and pull out the broken plastic thing. buy the replacement part,
NAPA has them for $25. clean out the gearbox, make sure you get all the
little bits of plastic out. Put the new gear assembly in, put the grease in
(it came with the gear assembly for me) close it back up and reinstall. It
shouldn't take more than an hour or so per side. Definitely worth doing
yourself.

Brian

>
> both my power windows died. They'll go down, but not up - I have to "help"
> them back up. It's a 90 F150. I took the panels off and it looks like a
> pain in the rump to fix. Drilling out the rivets and all - or is there an
> easier way to just replace the plastic gears without taking the motor out.
> Both motors sound good, but you can hear a thump thump thump when
> trying to
> get the window to go up like the gear may be stepped. If fixing it myself
> isn't worth the hassle, how much should I expect to spend?
>
> Also, how much do the quarter length sleeper shells run?
>
> -Vic Erwin
> www.webdigs.com
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:56:56 -0700
From: "T. Higgins"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150 Needs more cooling.,...

Greetings all,

I have a 96 F150 with the 302/Auto-OD (E40D?)and a 3.55 rear end. I recently moved to the southwest and drive regularly in temperatures over 100 F. When driving at freeway speeds with the AC on the temp gauge is approximately 1/2 way to hot (right on the little thermometer). When stopped the temperature starts to creep up. I have the "heavy duty cooling" which I believe is a two cell radiator (the largest I could find to install with the A/C before I moved). I would like to add additional cooling capacity and am considering some/all of the following. I would appreciate any thoughts or comments from those that have tried the same or have any additional ideas or insight.

1) I will replace the floppy "air directors" with light weight aluminum to ensure that all air that flows through the grill flows through the radiator (I don't have a bumber with holes for air flow).

2) I have considered adding an electric fan (in a push conifiguration) for additional cooling when stopped in traffic/or at idle.

3) I have considered adding an oil cooler.

4) I have considered adding a single cell radiator (like my old one) behind the two cell. I would hook these up in series. I believe that there is room to do this AND keep the stock fan. If not, I would consider the electric fan noted above.

5) Any combination of the above.

Any thoughts or help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom.

P.S. I have what I believe is a larger tranny fluid cooler (not attached to the radiator). Should I get a bigger one? I don't use my truck for any towing or really heavy hauling.




- -----== Sent via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==-----
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dejanews.com/ Easy access to 50,000+ discussion forums
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:08:35 -0700
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:OBD-II check engine light

Chuck, I would think this would be covered by the emissions
warranty on your truck and cost you $0, except for your time and lost
use. Walt

> Date: 19 Aug 98 07:28:41 EDT
> From: CharlesASkarsaune eaton.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - 96 F150 with OBD - Check Engine Light
>
> Any body know of a way to read the codes on a vehicle with the OBD
> system
> other than going to the dealer and forking over your bank account?
> My check engine light on my late 96 F150 4wd has come on and while
> it runs ok, I want to correct whatever has tripped it.
> Thanks in advance,
> Chuck
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 14:39:00 -0500
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Needs more cooling.,...

T. Higgins wrote:

> When driving at freeway speeds with the AC on the temp gauge is approximately 1/2 way to hot (right on the little thermometer). When stopped the temperature starts to creep up.

A friend with a Cougar had a similar problem recently: when moving, the temp was OK. When stopped, it would overheat. The problem ended up being the fan clutch which wasn't locking up the fan. He replaced the fan clutch and now all is well. Check it out--if that's the problem it's an easy fix.

- --
Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 22:27:00 EDT
From: RobSweed aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Fuel System De-pressurization

I replaced the filter on my truck and it was not fun. You'll need a tool
mentioned here by others. It comes in a set for different diameter lines.
Slide the right one onto the pipe coming out of the filter into the fitting on
the fuel line. There is a circular spring inside the fitting and the tool
will expand it. Be careful because after I popped the cutoff switch behind
the right kickpanel and ran the engine til it wouldn't run anymore there was
still plenty of pressure. I would try letting it sit for a while to see if
the pressure drops.

My filter was next to the front fuel tank and tough to get to. The filter is
held in a spring clip bracket that is hard to spread open. I took the filter
and bracket off together. It bolts to the frame. The problem is the bolts
are too long to clear the frame while trying to squeeze the filter between the
frame and tank. Before you loosen the nuts saw the bolts to shorten them.
They are way too long.

Replacing the filter is not something that I want to do again soon. Too much
time for what should be a simple process.

Bob
robsweed aol.com

'94 Ford F-150 SC 4X4 5.0 E4OD
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 23:35:06 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Needs more cooling.,...

At 09:56 AM 8/20/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Greetings all,
>
>I have a 96 F150 with the 302/Auto-OD (E40D?)and a 3.55 rear end. I recently moved to the southwest and drive regularly in temperatures over 100 F. When driving at freeway speeds with the AC on the temp gauge is approximately 1/2 way to hot (right on the little thermometer). When stopped the temperature starts to creep up. I have the "heavy duty cooling" which I believe is a two cell radiator (the largest I could find to install with the A/C before I moved). I would like to add additional cooling capacity and am considering some/all of the following. I would appreciate any thoughts or comments from those that have tried the same or have any additional ideas or insight.
>
>1) I will replace the floppy "air directors" with light weight aluminum to ensure that all air that flows through the grill flows through the radiator (I don't have a bumber with holes for air flow).
>
>2) I have considered adding an electric fan (in a push conifiguration) for additional cooling when stopped in traffic/or at idle.

This helped tremendously with my truck.

>
>3) I have considered adding an oil cooler.

I'd try the fan first. The oil cooler won't help if you're stopped because
it won't have air flow.

>4) I have considered adding a single cell radiator (like my old one) behind the two cell. I would hook these up in series. I believe that there is room to do this AND keep the stock fan. If not, I would consider the electric fan noted above.

I've *never* heard of doing this. First, how will they mount? Second, the inlet
and outlets of the front radiator would hit the back radiator. The problem
sounds like air flow, not cooling capacity.


Ken Payne

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 00:43:30 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 cats; my brakes suck.

Denis, see replies in body of message:

Denis SIS wrote:
>
> Randy and list,
>
- -----snip-----

My brakes suck. I have had everything
> replaced, except the PB booster. A guy at a Firestone shop even
> replaced my master cylinder with a 'bigger bore' one from a later model
> truck about a month ago. No change. It takes lots of human pressure to
> stop and the pedal feels spongy. Any suggestions? Does anyone out
> there have a pedal that feels DOES NOT feel spongy? Also my 'Rear
> Anti-lock' light on the dash is coming on. Sometimes if I set the
> emergency brake, then release it, the light will turn off, but lately
> that doesn't even work. Suggestions??


This is gonna sound like one of those DUH!!! questions, but did you
_thoroughly_ bleed all the brakes? Start w/the brake farthest from
the master cylinder and work you way closer (farthest meaning the most
brake line for the fluid to travel thru). Use an entire can if
necessary since this will flush out any old or contaminated fluid too.


BTW, I drilled four 3" holes in
> my air box this past weekend. Makes a lot of intake noise now!
>

Drilling holes in airboxes reminds me of my old Honda Fourtrax
days---hehe! Tonite was the moto-x at the local fairgrounds and I
couldn't make it due to the kids being sick but after sunset I could
here all the bikes and man that made me want to ride!!


> Thanks
> Denis Hergenreter
> denis500 hotmail.com
>

Hope my DUH! question was _some_ help,
Later,
Randy (Brew)
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 00:48:32 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 Front Axle U-joints

Pat,
If you go to buy a spindle nut make sure you get the right one. My
Dana50 (damn TTB) was a four-notch nut, but it is NOT the same one
that fits the Dana 44, mines about 1/4-1/2" larer in diameter, but I
don't know that it'd fit the Dana 60. Auto Zone rents only the
six-notch type which may be what yours has.

Have fun,
Later,
Randy (Brew)

Pat Daniels wrote:
>
> I have an 88 F350 4x4 which has the solid front axle and is in dire need of
> the u-joints on the front axle being replaced as they are worn out. I'm
> not talking the driveshaft u-joints. These u-joints are on the axleshafts
> at the end of the axlehousing. I have heard horror stories about getting
> these out, but according to the Haynes manual, it is a walk in the park.
> Anybody got any experience with this? I just need a heads on what to
> expect. Need to get this done with winter approaching, any advice,
> warnings or cautions would be appreciated.
> Pat Daniels
> Kodiak, Alaska
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 01:04:40 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Needs more cooling.,...

Higgins (weren't you on Magnum P.I.?)
Anyway I'd also consider a good sized tranny cooler. It won't help a
LOT when sitting still, but it will help to cool the tranny fluid that
passes thru the radiator. Double check to see if you do in fact have
the largest capacity radiator you can fit in there (especially if you
think you have enough room to fit another radiator. The electric fan
is a good idea if you hhok it to a manual switch so you run it only
when needed. Is your fan shroud installed and in good condition (no
chunks removed)? Have you ever tried Redline coolant for it? These
things will all make some difference, it's up to you which you'd like
to try first and go one at a time until it's fixed. Plan ahead, don't
necessarily go w/the cheapest thing. For instance, do you ever plan
on towing heavy trailers? Maybe the tranny cooler would be the first
logical choice. Ever plan on off-roading at very slow speeds? Maybe
the electric fan would do better here.
Just some food for thought,
Later,
Randy (Brew)

T. Higgins wrote:
>
> Greetings all,
>
> I have a 96 F150 with the 302/Auto-OD (E40D?)and a 3.55 rear end. I recently moved to the southwest and drive regularly in temperatures over 100 F. When driving at freeway speeds with the AC on the temp gauge is approximately 1/2 way to hot (right on the little thermometer). When stopped the temperature starts to creep up. I have the "heavy duty cooling" which I believe is a two cell radiator (the largest I could find to install with the A/C before I moved). I would like to add additional cooling capacity and am considering some/all of the following. I would appreciate any thoughts or comments from those that have tried the same or have any additional ideas or insight.
>
> 1) I will replace the floppy "air directors" with light weight aluminum to ensure that all air that flows through the grill flows through the radiator (I don't have a bumber with holes for air flow).
>
> 2) I have considered adding an electric fan (in a push conifiguration) for additional cooling when stopped in traffic/or at idle.
>
> 3) I have considered adding an oil cooler.
>
> 4) I have considered adding a single cell radiator (like my old one) behind the two cell. I would hook these up in series. I believe that there is room to do this AND keep the stock fan. If not, I would consider the electric fan noted above.
>
> 5) Any combination of the above.
>
> Any thoughts or help is greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom.
>
> P.S. I have what I believe is a larger tranny fluid cooler (not attached to the radiator). Should I get a bigger one? I don't use my truck for any towing or really heavy hauling.
>
>
>
> -----== Sent via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==-----
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dejanews.com/ Easy access to 50,000+ discussion forums
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 00:02:09 -0600
From: Jeff Fisher
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Old Faithful... or, gas tankus eruptus...

Here's a good one, I have never experienced this b4 and hope to never
experience it again..

84 F-250, 460 4sp 4WD, 2 tanks...

I went camping earlier this month near Ouray CO, (beautiful spot by the
way).

Our camp site was 1 hours drive up a 4WD road (Poughkeepsie
Gulch), 2nd gear low rang 4WD about 2500 to 3000 rpm for the trip.

I tell you all this because when I pulled into camp I heard a suspicious
noise from under the truck after I stopped. It sounded like a pressure
leak, upon crawling underneath to ck out this noise I saw it was a vent
off the front gas tank, (this is the one that was in service).

No biggie, just a little pressure build up... I popped the gas cap off
to relieve said pressure and the damn gas started gushing out, I backed
away and then it really started SPRAYING out ot the filler.. I'm
talking a fountain 15 feet in the air, this eruption lasted for what
seemed like 5 minutes but was actually only a minute or so....

I deduced that the fuel in the tank was brought up to boiling
temperature because of the long slow trip and the proximity of the huge
muffler to the tank. Once the cap was taken off the liquid really
started to boil with a passion (kinda like lifting the lid on a pressure
cooker before cooling it off sufficiently).

The stock muffler is huge and runs right along the length of the tank
just on the other side of the drive shaft, the long low speed drive at
high rpms combined to make for some excitement...

This has the potential of being dangerous, fortunately there was not a
camp fire burning at the time or I may be short a couple of eye brows
and an old truck...

I'm not sure what the boiling temp of gas is at sea level much less at
10,000 feet (that's how high we were in camp).

I plan to try to insulate the tank from the muffler but I'm not sure of
the best method, insulation with an air gap is best but possibly not
practical. Maybe just some soft silvery reflector type material of some
sort..

Any Ideas/suggestions?

Jeff \|//
....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.