80-96-list-digest Tuesday, August 4 1998 Volume 02 : Number 270



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle
RE: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle
FTE 80-96 - Oh yes, the snap ring pain
Re: FTE 80-96 - Oh yes, the snap ring pain
FTE 80-96 - RE: R134 potential conversion
FTE 80-96 - RE: tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - Oh yes, the snap ring pain
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - Oh yes, the snap ring pain
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle
FTE 80-96 - Re: Popping and creaking
Re: FTE 80-96 - Oh yes, the snap ring pain
FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a
FTE 80-96 - voltage problem
FTE 80-96 - F-150 Fast Idle
RE: FTE 80-96 - voltage problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 08:10:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Scott M Golly
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle

Hello Fellow Ford Readers,

I have a dilemma for you. I drive a 1990 Ford F-150 with a 5.8L and an
E4OD with many mods including gears and a lockers. First of all, I
have had the E4OD problems and the way I fixed them is changed ALL of
the fluid, added a container of Tranny DuraLube (sold at most
autoparts stores which was recommended by a Tranny shop and it works),
and went to ford and purchased the rewired (not a recall but a fix
that ford offers) Tranny switch. The switch goes on the side of the
transmission and takes about 20 minutes to replace. It wasn't all that
cheap (50 bucks but worth it). I actually like my E4OD now. I also
put a temperature sender and cooler on the E4OD with an autometer
gage.

Now my problem is that my 5.8L is idling real rough and it has a
throttle response delay. I thought a miss was the culprit and got rid
of the spark plugs and wires. No luck! Other info - Hypertech chip,
K&N Air charger kit, 9mm plug wires, Accel Cap and Rotor, etc. ANY
RECOMMENDATIONS??? If you have a solution to that, I want more
horsepower, any recommendations.

Scott

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 08:07:41 -0500
From: "Beaman, James"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle

Scott Golly wrote:

> Hello Fellow Ford Readers,
>
> Now my problem is that my 5.8L is idling real rough and it has a
> throttle response delay.
>
My first recommendation would be to look at your TPS (Throttle Position
Sensor)

> If you have a solution to that, I want more
> horsepower, any recommendations.
>
How about a free flow exhaust?

James Beaman
james.beaman lmco.com
Houston, Texas

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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 09:53:03 EDT
From: BFunk33 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a

> From: John M Randall
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a
>
> At 06:03 PM 8/3/98 -0700, you wrote:
> >I have a 1984 Ford Bronco and need to have the A/C fixed. It has leaked
> >for several years and this year it completely lost it's charge. I
> >brought it to a reputable auto a/c repair shop and they said they the
> >compressor was shot (after 200,000 miles) and it also needed the
> >accumulator/drier replaced and a new orifice tube. Then they would flush
> >the system and recharge with R-134a. Unfortunately the price tag for all
> >this was pretty steep - $790. So I wanted to check out all the options
> >before I went ahead and had this done.
> >
> >1) Has anyone out there had their A/C converted to R-134a? How well did
> >it cool after the conversion?
> >
> >2) Does anyone know what the official Ford recommendation it for this?
> >Is there a TSB out there to look at? Did any of the later Broncos come
> >with R134a?
> >
> >Thanks in advance for the help.
> >
> >Dave,
>
> I didn't think you had an option "to change to R134a or to stay with R12"
> It was my understanding that R12 was NO LONGER being made except for one
> country, India I think, and WAS not being imported into USA. Along with
> the price of R12.

There's still *LOTS* of R12 left, and the price is dropping. What with
stockpiling and reclaiming, it hasn't disappeared as fast as was feared.
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 09:01:56 -0500
From: John Randall
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a

At 09:53 AM 8/4/98 EDT, you wrote:
>
>> From: John M Randall
>> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a

>> >Dave,
>>
>> I didn't think you had an option "to change to R134a or to stay with R12"
>> It was my understanding that R12 was NO LONGER being made except for one
>> country, India I think, and WAS not being imported into USA. Along with
>> the price of R12.
>
>There's still *LOTS* of R12 left, and the price is dropping. What with
>stockpiling and reclaiming, it hasn't disappeared as fast as was feared.
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>

So waht's the price on 20# of the stuff now I paid $ 100.00 befor it was
banded and I saw it up to $ 400.00 for 20#.

John in Stoughton
Thanks for using the Geology Instrument Shop and,

Have a nice Day,

John

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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 07:19:23 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle

The first things I would check would be the Idle Air-Bypass valve or the
Throttle Position Sensor, they might be sending a bad signal to the computer
resulting in a rough idle.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Scott M Golly
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 12:15 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle


> Hello Fellow Ford Readers,
>
> I have a dilemma for you. I drive a 1990 Ford F-150 with a 5.8L and an
> E4OD with many mods including gears and a lockers. First of all, I
> have had the E4OD problems and the way I fixed them is changed ALL of
> the fluid, added a container of Tranny DuraLube (sold at most
> autoparts stores which was recommended by a Tranny shop and it works),
> and went to ford and purchased the rewired (not a recall but a fix
> that ford offers) Tranny switch. The switch goes on the side of the
> transmission and takes about 20 minutes to replace. It wasn't all that
> cheap (50 bucks but worth it). I actually like my E4OD now. I also
> put a temperature sender and cooler on the E4OD with an autometer
> gage.
>
> Now my problem is that my 5.8L is idling real rough and it has a
> throttle response delay. I thought a miss was the culprit and got rid
> of the spark plugs and wires. No luck! Other info - Hypertech chip,
> K&N Air charger kit, 9mm plug wires, Accel Cap and Rotor, etc. ANY
> RECOMMENDATIONS??? If you have a solution to that, I want more
> horsepower, any recommendations.
>
> Scott
>
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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 07:31:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: R Lindberg / E Winnie
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a

On Tue, 4 Aug 1998, John Randall wrote:

> So waht's the price on 20# of the stuff now I paid $ 100.00 befor it was
> banded and I saw it up to $ 400.00 for 20#.
I recall hearing that 'private' (ie not a shop) ownership of R-12 is a
no-no. Is that true?

Ralph Lindberg N7BSN ICQ#5988954
RV and Camping FAQ
If Windows is the answer, I -really- want to know what the question is.

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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 11:20:28 -0400
From: "Bruce A. Ramirez"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle

I had the same problem with my F-150 4.9L, rough idle and poor throttle
response. Mine was due to a vacuum leak at the intake manifold gasket.
Check all your vacuum lines and fittings, if they are all fine, check to
see if you intake manifold gasket is leaking. I did the samething you
did. I replaced my plugs, wires, rotor, and distributor cap first and
nothing helped. After I replaced my intake gasket the problem
disappeared.

Bruce Ramirez
1991 F-150 4x4 4.9L



Scott M Golly wrote:
>
> Hello Fellow Ford Readers,
>
> I have a dilemma for you. I drive a 1990 Ford F-150 with a 5.8L and an
> E4OD with many mods including gears and a lockers. First of all, I
> have had the E4OD problems and the way I fixed them is changed ALL of
> the fluid, added a container of Tranny DuraLube (sold at most
> autoparts stores which was recommended by a Tranny shop and it works),
> and went to ford and purchased the rewired (not a recall but a fix
> that ford offers) Tranny switch. The switch goes on the side of the
> transmission and takes about 20 minutes to replace. It wasn't all that
> cheap (50 bucks but worth it). I actually like my E4OD now. I also
> put a temperature sender and cooler on the E4OD with an autometer
> gage.
>
> Now my problem is that my 5.8L is idling real rough and it has a
> throttle response delay. I thought a miss was the culprit and got rid
> of the spark plugs and wires. No luck! Other info - Hypertech chip,
> K&N Air charger kit, 9mm plug wires, Accel Cap and Rotor, etc. ANY
> RECOMMENDATIONS??? If you have a solution to that, I want more
> horsepower, any recommendations.
>
> Scott
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 09:30:37 -0600
From: Fred Moreno
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Oh yes, the snap ring pain

Chuck wrote;

Date: 3 Aug 98 08:06:03 EDT
From: CharlesASkarsaune eaton.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Automatic locking hub snap ring removal

My 96 4wd F150 was making a squawking noise from the driver's side front
hub, so I popped the wheel off to take a look. Haynes says take
capscrews
off
and the whole schmear should come out with the cover. Well, mine
doesn't
match
the diagram in the book. When I take the cover off,
there is another cover looking deal retained by a plain end, round cross
section snap
ring. There is no tab, leg, or other feature on this snap ring to grab
hold of, and no slot,
access hole, etc. to get a tool into to pry the snap ring up out of its
slot. Any bright ideas
on getting this rascal out? Special tool, drill a hole, what?

Thanks in advance,
Chuck


Howdy Chuck,

I think I have been in the same situation that your are in Chuck.
On my '95 4X4 with auto locking hubs, I had to make myself a VERY
pointed piece of metal about 1/16" thick with a 90 degree bend about
3/8" from the tip. It has to be fairly strong metal, the cheap
screwdriver I sacrificed in the beginning just broke while I cursed the
designer of this fabrication.
I cruised several hardware stores in the beginning looking for a handy
tool but everything was too fat or too expensive to work with.
Once you make this tool, slip the bent point under the gap in the ring,
have a pair of needle nose ready to grab it, and that's it, 2 hours of
running around, 1 hour of finding the right piece of volunteer scrap
metal, 1 hour metal fabricating, cursing, facial expressions and 5
seconds of skill gets that ring out. Not a problem.
You will be amazed (and appreciate) how easy the rest comes out.
BTW, I had to service my autolocking hubs often due to failure to
engage that I replaced them with Warn manual locking hubs. LOVE them,
especially when I am going down a steep rocky grade in 4 Low. Seems to
have much better compression braking than with the autolocking ones.
Don't know if I had a faulty set or what, but I am happy now. The Warn
were relatively inexpensive (about $80) compared to $300-$400 from
dealership.
Send me your fax # and I can send you some information out of the
Mitchell Manuals. Their material generally comes straight out of the
Service manual.

Fred Moreno, KD5AQB
Autotronic Controls Corp. - Alternative Fuels div
El Paso TX.
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 11:07:11 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oh yes, the snap ring pain

> My 96 4wd F150 was making a squawking noise from the driver's side front
> hub, so I popped the wheel off to take a look. Haynes says take
>
>
> slot. Any bright ideas
> on getting this rascal out? Special tool, drill a hole, what?

Chuck,
You might want to try the four piece dental set(as I call it)
of curved hook ends. They sell them at any parts house.
You get a straigtht awl, and then three other ones that
have the ends shaped in three different angles. This is
what I use the get at my outer retaining ring that is
recessed into the hub housing.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 09:01:31 -0700
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: R134 potential conversion

Dave, I've got an 85 F-150 with 351W and went to the Ford Dealer to see
about a retro kit, he said none exists for the truck(needless to say I
was shocked..there's only about a zillion Ford pickups out there). You
might be in the same boat. Perhaps an aftermarket outfit makes one. Some
of the parts you mentioned are easy enough to replace yourself and you
can get them a lot cheaper. You can have them replace the hard to get at
parts and charge the system up. Should save you a bunch of money. The
number of miles on a engine really has nothing to do with the wear and
tear on the compressor unless you live in an area where you use it all
the time.

Just a thought...mine has had a slow leak also for the last couple of
years, this year it went out completely. I found the leak. An O-ring at
the condenser connection to the hi pressure line but haven't gotten to
it because I've got to remove my fog lights, driving lights and grill to
get at it and it's still behind the bumper. I'm planning on changing
that O-ring out(when it gets a little cooler outside, 109 yesterday, 106
today) and have an outfit charge it up.

Walt


> Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 18:03:10 -0700
> From: dhollingworth juno.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a
>
> I have a 1984 Ford Bronco and need to have the A/C fixed. [snip]
>
> 1) Has anyone out there had their A/C converted to R-134a? How well
> did
> it cool after the conversion?
>
> 2) Does anyone know what the official Ford recommendation it for
> this?
> Is there a TSB out there to look at? Did any of the later Broncos
> come
> with R134a?
>
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>
> Dave
> _____________________________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 09:23:45 -0700
From: Steve Faust
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: tires

- -----Original Message-----
Rick wrote:
This is really hard for me to believe. I cannot begin to image
putting 36" tires on my Bronco without a lift. I would end
up running myself (fender) over. :-) Are the F250 '82 suspensions
that much different than my '83 Bronco...


Rick:
Don't go running yourself over :-) We need guys like you on the list to
keep the rest of us honest.
Your right you can't go that big on your Bronco w/o a lift. I checked
the chart I have and yes, there is a significant difference between
clearances for a the F-150/Bronco and IFS F-250/F-350. Remember the
F-250 & F-350 use a leaf spring set-up which is probably why the higher
clearance. BTW for you '83 Bronco (80-86 Bronco & F-150) the chart shows
that you should need a 2" lift to run 33" tires with no modifications
and would have to go to a 6" lift to run a 36-37" tire. FYI except for
the old 66-77 4x4 High Boys, the 80-91 F-250/F-350s and the 86-91
Monobeam F-350s appear to have the biggest stock tire clearance.

Steve Faust -- '88 F-250 4x4 Supercab (7.3)


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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 12:20:16 -0400
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oh yes, the snap ring pain

Is it a common occurrence for the automatic hubs to fail? When
I purchased my 95 F-150 used, the hubs weren't engaging. The extended
warrantee took care of it, but since then I've far exceeded the
mileage. Other than avoiding silly things like engaging at 60mph,
does anybody have any recommendations to avoid having this happen
again or should I just expect to have to replace them once more
in time.

Just wondering.

- -Michael J. Pasznik, Jr.

- ----------
Fred wrote:

*snip*
BTW, I had to service my autolocking hubs often due to failure to
engage that I replaced them with Warn manual locking hubs. LOVE them,
especially when I am going down a steep rocky grade in 4 Low. Seems to
have much better compression braking than with the autolocking ones.
Don't know if I had a faulty set or what, but I am happy now. The Warn
were relatively inexpensive (about $80) compared to $300-$400 from
dealership.
*snip*


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 11:53:38 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: tires

Steve Faust wrote:

> Don't go running yourself over :-) We need guys like you on the list to
> keep the rest of us honest. clearance. BTW for you '83 Bronco (80-86
> Bronco & F-150) the chart shows
> that you should need a 2" lift to run 33" tires with no modifications

And Likewise. :-)

Steve,
Yes, You are absolutely correct. I have half the lift so to speak.
What I have on the rear are heavy duty air shocks. What I am
going to put on the front are Skyjackers 3" extended springs
($145.00 a set). They are significantly meatier than than
the stock springs. So in effect I will end up with about the
2" and then I will no longer be goujing the outside of my tires
when I go offroad.


> the old 66-77 4x4 High Boys, the 80-91 F-250/F-350s and the 86-91
> Monobeam F-350s appear to have the biggest stock tire clearance.

Thanx for straightening me out.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 12:30:04 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oh yes, the snap ring pain

Michael J. Pasznik, Jr. wrote:

> Is it a common occurrence for the automatic hubs to fail? When
> I purchased my 95 F-150 used, the hubs weren't engaging. The extended

Mike,
A lot of people on my bronco club have had problems as
well as, have changed them over to the manuals. Look at what
you wrote above. '95 truck and they were ALREADY broken
the year you bought it. Right now by my calculations that is
only three years as of today's date. Manual hubs are more
robust because they leave the electrical crap out of the loop.
I would only suggest, the next time they break(and they will)
spend the $90.00 and get the Warn Premiums. My '83 bronco
has only had one problem, and that was one of the manual
hub gears on the drivers side cracked, which I found a
different one at a junkyard for $5.00. I am just simply trying
to say that you may be better off changing them.


> warrantee took care of it, but since then I've far exceeded the
> mileage. Other than avoiding silly things like engaging at 60mph,
> does anybody have any recommendations to avoid having this happen

I wouldn't unlock them at 60 mph either. :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 16:34:29 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle

Now my problem is that my 5.8L is idling real rough and it has a
throttle response delay.

Try cleaning your throttle body first. then maybe the TPS

If you have a solution to that, I want more horsepower, any
recommendations.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 17:19:41 -0500
From: "Jram"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Popping and creaking

For the popping and creaking try this before you do anything it is the
easiest thing to do and usually fixes the noise. Loosen up the transmission
crossmember and jack it up about 1/4". There is no need to remove it.
make some plastic shims, (I usually cut them out of an antifreeze bottle)
that will slide in-between the frame and crossmember making shure that they
cut off all contact between the two. Then lower and tighten the crossmember.
There will probably be no more noise. If there is then you can reference
TSB 95-9-7 for extensive lists of concerns and procedures. But trust me, do
the crossmember first and save yourself a lot of time.
Jram swbell.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.swbell.net/jram


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 20:19:29 -0400
From: "David Roemhild"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oh yes, the snap ring pain

I have heard many of the same stories from other people. I would like
to change out the hubs on my 85 Bronco. How difficult will the changeover
be? Is there any transfer case alterations required? Or, is it localized
to the hubs?

Thanks,

Dan Brewer

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rick Wojciechowski
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oh yes, the snap ring pain


>Michael J. Pasznik, Jr. wrote:
>
>> Is it a common occurrence for the automatic hubs to fail? When
>> I purchased my 95 F-150 used, the hubs weren't engaging. The extended
>
>Mike,
> A lot of people on my bronco club have had problems as
>well as, have changed them over to the manuals. Look at what
>you wrote above. '95 truck and they were ALREADY broken
>the year you bought it. Right now by my calculations that is
>only three years as of today's date. Manual hubs are more
>robust because they leave the electrical crap out of the loop.
>I would only suggest, the next time they break(and they will)
>spend the $90.00 and get the Warn Premiums. My '83 bronco
>has only had one problem, and that was one of the manual
>hub gears on the drivers side cracked, which I found a
>different one at a junkyard for $5.00. I am just simply trying
>to say that you may be better off changing them.
>
>
>> warrantee took care of it, but since then I've far exceeded the
>> mileage. Other than avoiding silly things like engaging at 60mph,
>> does anybody have any recommendations to avoid having this happen
>
> I wouldn't unlock them at 60 mph either. :-)
>
>--
>Thanks,
> Rick Wojo
> '83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
> '92 Mstng 5.0L
> '95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)
>
>
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 21:27:36 -0400
From: "THE PAVIES'"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a

*Dave- I just recently had my 90 Econoline converted to R134. The
*R134 retro kit cost $85 and 3 pounds of R134 Freon cost 75. I believe
*the retro kit included the filter/dryer and new O-rings (I didn't
*actually see the kit - my mechanic installed it - so I don't know what
*else might be in it). The installation also included the breaking of my
*fan, unfortunately. So now the A/C works great but I can't really feel
*it too well since it can't be blown out.
* BTW, anyone have a wiring diagram for a 90 Econoline that shows how
*the fan works? Jack P.
*
* 95 F350 Powerstroke 4wd Crewcab
* 90 E150 300ci (200,000+ miles)
* 76 F250 360ci
* and also 67 VW Bug
* 61 VW Singlecab Bus
*
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 21:54:56 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - voltage problem

hello,
i have a 1990 f-150 xt cab 5.0 and im having a problem. i have replaced about
4 alternators in this truck. when i start it up the voltage gauge reads low
until i race the engine a little then its fine. when i try turning on the air
cond the vlotage gauge reads real low and the truck sometimes stalls. or when
approaching a stop light.
the shops in my area diagnois it as the alternator. i purchased a new heavy
duty battery, and many alternators. can anyone help me with this problem?

joe jsc721
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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 22:02:54 EDT
From: Pjx488 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Fast Idle

I was wondering if anyone could help me? I have an 1988 F-150, 4wd, 5.0L with
an idle of about 2000 rpm. It also bucks and jerks at constant speed. And it
pings a little.
I suspect that the problem is with one on the engine sensors. Can any one
tell me where I should start to track this problem down?

Paul
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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 20:22:59 -0600
From: "Brian Soderblom"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - voltage problem

You have the same problem I had. Did you ever replace the rectifier
plug (the larger one?) I assume you have the internally regulated
external fan version. These alternators were used on a number of Ford
vehicles including the Broncos and F-150s from about 88-93 or so.
They are, in a word, GARBAGE. If you have two plugs and an external
fan on your alternator, that's the one. I started replacing mine
Saturday. I replaced it with three different rebuilts, same problem
each time. After talking to a couple people, I found the solution.
You can replace the alternator with one built for a 94 or 95 Mustang
V8. This replacement alt is rated at 130A as opposed to the ones
you've probably found, either 65 or 80A most likely. Take a look at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://cobra.tvi.com/altproj/3g.html this guy has it spelled out with
pictures for a Mustang, but my 89' Bronco was almost exactly the same.
I completely replaced the wiring harness, if you want more detailed
info on how I did mine email me off the list. After replacing it, I
got it checked and it's generating about 80A or so at idle.

- --
Brian Soderblom
brian soderblom.net
(303) 903-3346 ICQ# 4603281

> hello,
> i have a 1990 f-150 xt cab 5.0 and im having a problem. i
> have replaced about
> 4 alternators in this truck. when i start it up the voltage
> gauge reads low
> until i race the engine a little then its fine. when i try
> turning on the air
> cond the vlotage gauge reads real low and the truck
> sometimes stalls. or when
> approaching a stop light.
> the shops in my area diagnois it as the alternator. i
> purchased a new heavy
> duty battery, and many alternators. can anyone help me with
> this problem?
>
> joe jsc721
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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