80-96-list-digest Tuesday, August 4 1998 Volume 02 : Number 269



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Automatic locking hub snap ring removal
Re: FTE 80-96 - Automatic locking hub snap ring removal
FTE 80-96 - 87 ranger tranny
Re: FTE 80-96 - Switch engines - oil pan/motor mount problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - U-joint lesson
FTE 80-96 - Where is the TSB text
Re: FTE 80-96 - Where is the TSB text
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - AOD vs. E4OD
Re: FTE 80-96 - Switch engines - oil pan/motor mount problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1980 F-250 Parking break cable
FTE 80-96 - Snap, pop, etc.
FTE 80-96 - fan inop/electrical problem
FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a
Re: FTE 80-96 - Switch engines - oil pan/motor mount problem
RE: FTE 80-96 - Snap, pop, etc.
FTE 80-96 - Reinstalling stick bearing cap

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Date: 3 Aug 98 08:06:03 EDT
From: CharlesASkarsaune eaton.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Automatic locking hub snap ring removal

My 96 4wd F150 was making a squawking noise from the driver's side front
hub, so I popped the wheel off to take a look. Haynes says take capscrews
off
and the whole schmear should come out with the cover. Well, mine doesn't
match
the diagram in the book. When I take the cover off,
there is another cover looking deal retained by a plain end, round cross
section snap
ring. There is no tab, leg, or other feature on this snap ring to grab
hold of, and no slot,
access hole, etc. to get a tool into to pry the snap ring up out of its
slot. Any bright ideas
on getting this rascal out? Special tool, drill a hole, what?

Thanks in advance,
Chuck

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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 08:40:28 -0400
From: "Bruce A. Ramirez"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Automatic locking hub snap ring removal

I've pulled my automatic locking hubs several times. There should be
tabs at the ends of the lock ring. Remove the lock ring seated in the
groove of the wheel hub by compressing the ends with needle nose pliers,
while pulling the hub lock from the hub body.

Bruce Ramirez
1991 F-150 XLT Lariet 4x4 4.9L


CharlesASkarsaune eaton.com wrote:
>
> My 96 4wd F150 was making a squawking noise from the driver's side front
> hub, so I popped the wheel off to take a look. Haynes says take capscrews
> off
> and the whole schmear should come out with the cover. Well, mine doesn't
> match
> the diagram in the book. When I take the cover off,
> there is another cover looking deal retained by a plain end, round cross
> section snap
> ring. There is no tab, leg, or other feature on this snap ring to grab
> hold of, and no slot,
> access hole, etc. to get a tool into to pry the snap ring up out of its
> slot. Any bright ideas
> on getting this rascal out? Special tool, drill a hole, what?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Chuck
>
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 09:29:20 EDT
From: DReier6116 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 87 ranger tranny

I have a 87 Ranger 4x4 v-6 w/ a Mithubishi tranny has gone up for the second
time. What can I replace it with and how much modifications needed
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 09:21:02 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Switch engines - oil pan/motor mount problem

>From: "Linda Lawrence"
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Switch engines - oil pan/motor mount problem
>
>I'm putting a 351 M from a '78 TBird into an '85 F250.
>What do I do about the oil pan and motor mounts?
> The oil pan touches the cross member. According
>to the sticker, this truck used to have a 460 in it. Will
>460 motor mounts and oil pan adapt to the 351 M?

Yo Roger:

If you want to install an M-block engine (351M/400), you will need to get
the M-block engine mounts from an '80-'82 F truck or Bronco at the
junkyard. Those years were originally equipped w/ M-block engines. The
M-block was discontinued in the '83 model year. The 460 oil pan will not
fit an M-block. You can scavenge the rear sump oil pan from an '80-'82
truck M-block. That will fit your truck's crossmember.

Other issues:
M-block engines in cars had a wimpier stock cam than the M-blocks used in
trucks (mostly lower valve lift). An aftermarket cam or an engine from a
truck would give you healthier performance.

Depending on the emissions testing in your locale, the M-block engine may
not be legal, since it was not available as original equipment in 1985.

Good luck w/ your truck.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 10:35:38 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - U-joint lesson

Casey Vandor wrote:

> I blew the U-joint out of the slip yoke on the Dodge a week ago, and
> replaced it no big deal. I took the slip yoke out to do it, and when I
> put it back in, I didn't align the u yokes front and rear. Today I am
> pulling out of my driveway and I break the U-joint again! I went and
> talked a mechanic and he said that by not ligning the yokes up, they
> work against each other and eat up the driveline. So if you pull the
> yoke off, make sure that you line the ends up when you put it back on.


Yeah Casey, driveline shops have two terms for this depending
on where you go. " In Time " and " In Phase ".


- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 09:11:46 -0700
From: "Shivers, Bret"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Where is the TSB text

Does anyone know a web site that provides the text portion of the Technical
Service Bulletins?
I have the list Provided by ALLDATA, but I would like to read the complete
text.
You can respond directly if you wish.
Thanks,
Bret
bret.shivers kla-tencor.com

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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 09:16:51 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Where is the TSB text

I have only seen the list provided by ALLDATA, sorry.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Shivers, Bret
To: 'FORDTRUCKS'
Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 4:13 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Where is the TSB text


>Does anyone know a web site that provides the text portion of the Technical
>Service Bulletins?
>I have the list Provided by ALLDATA, but I would like to read the complete
>text.
>You can respond directly if you wish.
>Thanks,
>Bret
>bret.shivers kla-tencor.com
>
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>

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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 12:26:27 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: tires

Steve Faust wrote:

> Blaine:
> The suspension company application chart I have says that you should be
> able to fit up to 36" tire with no modifications with the 2" lift or up
> to a 38" tire with a 4" lift on a 80-91 4WD. This doesn't mean that you
> might not get a little tire rub in hard wheeling situations if your
> slamming the truck around. FYI it says that a 92-96 4WD will only take a
> 33" tire with the 2" lift without moving the OEM 'wrap around' bumper,
> also says only 33" on a 80-91 2WD w/ 2" lift.

This is really hard for me to believe. I cannot begin to image
putting 36" tires on my Bronco without a lift. I would end
up running myself(fender) over. :-) Are the F250 '82 suspensions
that much different than my '83 Bronco. I rub the radius pretty
good when at full lock, but only on one side. I also have
chewed up some of the outer edges from the oscillation
when going off road. My Bronco has 33's and no lift. I would
NEVER go any bigger without a 4" lift. Here is a bronco
chart if you care to take a look
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.Off-Road.com/4x4web/ford/bigbroncos/bbfaq.html
then go under the " TIRES " link.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 13:30:38 EDT
From: PhilDyson aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AOD vs. E4OD

AOD BAD, E4OD good. Bob is probably right. I don't believe I ever saw one
that would bolt to the big block. I know the AOD was not offered on anything
bigger than the 302 (4x2). At least prior to 1983. The C-6 is your only real
choice for a big truck. The OD tranny you want will be rare because of the
short output shaft for the x-fer case adapter. Of course you'll need that.
Be prepared to pay out the Wazoo.
Phil
1986 F150 351W 4x4

In a message dated 98-07-30 23:47:03 EDT, you write:


heavy duty transmission. I'm not altogether sure that the E40D will bolt up
to a 460.

Bob
>>
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 13:40:43 EDT
From: PhilDyson aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Switch engines - oil pan/motor mount problem

No, not without welding. Find a 1982 F-250 with 351/400M and snag the rear
sump pan and that should be the end of your problems. If you can't find one
let me know. I can get them.
Phil

In a message dated 98-08-02 13:15:21 EDT, you write:


I'm putting a 351 M from a '78 TBird into an '85 F250. What do I do about
the oil pan and motor mounts? The oil pan touches the cross member.
According to the sticker, this truck used to have a 460 in it. Will 460
motor mounts and oil pan adapt to the 351 M?

Thanks in advance.

Roger
Laguna, NM >>
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 11:57:06 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: tires

I had 33's on my Bronco and the only trouble I had was them rubbing the
radius arms and anti sway bar. Once they wore out I went back down to 31's
and have had no problems.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Rick Wojciechowski
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 5:23 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: tires


>Steve Faust wrote:
>
>> Blaine:
>> The suspension company application chart I have says that you should be
>> able to fit up to 36" tire with no modifications with the 2" lift or up
>> to a 38" tire with a 4" lift on a 80-91 4WD. This doesn't mean that you
>> might not get a little tire rub in hard wheeling situations if your
>> slamming the truck around. FYI it says that a 92-96 4WD will only take a
>> 33" tire with the 2" lift without moving the OEM 'wrap around' bumper,
>> also says only 33" on a 80-91 2WD w/ 2" lift.
>
>This is really hard for me to believe. I cannot begin to image
>putting 36" tires on my Bronco without a lift. I would end
>up running myself(fender) over. :-) Are the F250 '82 suspensions
>that much different than my '83 Bronco. I rub the radius pretty
>good when at full lock, but only on one side. I also have
>chewed up some of the outer edges from the oscillation
>when going off road. My Bronco has 33's and no lift. I would
>NEVER go any bigger without a 4" lift. Here is a bronco
>chart if you care to take a look
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.Off-Road.com/4x4web/ford/bigbroncos/bbfaq.html
>then go under the " TIRES " link.
>
>--
>Thanks,
> Rick Wojo
> '83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
> '92 Mstng 5.0L
> '95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)
>
>
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 17:12:34 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1980 F-250 Parking break cable

>From: Dennis Thompson
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1980 F-250 Parking break cable
>
>I bought a 80 F-250 3/4 ton truck, with 4-speed "granny
>tranny", about a year ago, since that time I have been
>strugling to find information on how to properly replace
>the parking break cable.

Yo Dennis:

What part of the cable do you need to replace?

The 1980 F250 has a 3-piece parking brake cable. From the brake pedal in
the cab is the main cable that runs through the cab floor and then along
the outside of the left frame rail. The main cable pulls on a clevis
attached to a threaded hook (Ford calls this whole thing an "adjuster").
The threaded hook attaches to an "equalizer bar" that pulls on the two
cables for the rear wheels. The cables for the rear wheels are mounted in
a bracket on the frame rail and run from the bracket through the backing
plates and attach inside the drum to the parking brake lever.

Each of the three cables can be replaced individually, and the adjuster and
equalizer bar can be replaced separately as well. The main cable from the
pedal to the adjuster runs about $80 from the dealer (ouch!). The adjuster
piece runs about $16 and the equalizer bar runs $12. The two cables for
the rear run about $30 apiece.

The new rear cables are well worth the cost. The new parts are much better
quality than the original pieces. They have a nylon/teflon lining for the
entire length of the cable sheath and the cable sheath is a much heavier
gauge plastic material that seals out water and contaminants. I replaced
these on my 1980 F250 last spring and it made a huge difference.

I don't know if the $80 main cable is all that worthwhile, unless you're
sure it's worn out on your truck. I haven't actually seen the new main
cable part, but it might have much better cable lining and sheathing, too.

Hope this helps.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 16:30:29 -0700
From: Jon Berman
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Snap, pop, etc.

Hello,
I've got a 1994 F-150, 2wd, automatic, making some strange noises.
During slow speed turns I can hear something like a popping sound when I
turn the wheel (mostly to the left side) coming from underneath the
front of the vehicle. I recently replaced all shocks and tires, but the
noise existed prior to replacing these parts and did not seem to effect
the noise.

I thought I might have seen something on this topic a couple months ago,
but I'm not positive. Could there possibly be a TSB related to this
problem?

Any suggestions or possible remedies greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jon
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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 19:57:26 -0400
From: "THE PAVIES'"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - fan inop/electrical problem

Help! The fan on my 90 E150 quit and I can't find the problem. The fan
switch meters OK. I found a burned and broken connector on the fan relay
(spent a couple hours trying to locate that!!!) and spent $30 at Ford
for a new one;still won't work. The speed control resistors look OK but
actually show very small resistances when I meter them out. Don't know
if that's normal or not...
I finally disconnected the cable to the fan switch, ran 12v up to the
switch from the fuse box, and then a wire over to the + side of the fan.
Ran a wire from the - side of the fan to ground. The fan worked great
for about 2 days and then the insulation on the + wire (12 gauge wire)
melted off at the fuse box.
The cable to the fan switch has 4 wires: 3 for the different speeds and
1 to ground (I guess the 12v comes through the fan and THEN to the
switch-?) Go figure...
Anyone have any ideas or experiences with the fan? Seems like it would
be a pretty basic thing but the manufacturer (gee - I hate to say
anything bad about Ford) has more different wires running to the switch,
relay, resistors, and fan than I can begin to trace. Thanks. Jack P.
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 18:03:10 -0700
From: dhollingworth juno.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a

I have a 1984 Ford Bronco and need to have the A/C fixed. It has leaked
for several years and this year it completely lost it's charge. I
brought it to a reputable auto a/c repair shop and they said they the
compressor was shot (after 200,000 miles) and it also needed the
accumulator/drier replaced and a new orifice tube. Then they would flush
the system and recharge with R-134a. Unfortunately the price tag for all
this was pretty steep - $790. So I wanted to check out all the options
before I went ahead and had this done.

1) Has anyone out there had their A/C converted to R-134a? How well did
it cool after the conversion?

2) Does anyone know what the official Ford recommendation it for this?
Is there a TSB out there to look at? Did any of the later Broncos come
with R134a?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Dave
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 20:49:21 -0700
From: John M Randall
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a

At 06:03 PM 8/3/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I have a 1984 Ford Bronco and need to have the A/C fixed. It has leaked
>for several years and this year it completely lost it's charge. I
>brought it to a reputable auto a/c repair shop and they said they the
>compressor was shot (after 200,000 miles) and it also needed the
>accumulator/drier replaced and a new orifice tube. Then they would flush
>the system and recharge with R-134a. Unfortunately the price tag for all
>this was pretty steep - $790. So I wanted to check out all the options
>before I went ahead and had this done.
>
>1) Has anyone out there had their A/C converted to R-134a? How well did
>it cool after the conversion?
>
>2) Does anyone know what the official Ford recommendation it for this?
>Is there a TSB out there to look at? Did any of the later Broncos come
>with R134a?
>
>Thanks in advance for the help.
>
>Dave,

I didn't think you had an option "to change to R134a or to stay with R12"
It was my understanding that R12 was NO LONGER being made except for one
country, India I think, and WAS not being imported into USA. Along with
the price of R12.

John In Stoughton
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 22:25:41 -0400
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Switch engines - oil pan/motor mount problem

I've done the swap the other way on an '80 250. Oil pan and mount changes
where required. Since the 351M/400 was stock in earlier years of your
truck you should be able to find the required pieces in the boneyard or at
a dealers. You might want to have a close look at the exhaust manifolds
while you are at it.

- ----------
> From: Linda Lawrence
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Switch engines - oil pan/motor mount problem
> Date: Sunday, August 02, 1998 1:11 PM
>
> I'm putting a 351 M from a '78 TBird into an '85 F250. What do I do
about
> the oil pan and motor mounts? The oil pan touches the cross member.
> According to the sticker, this truck used to have a 460 in it. Will 460
> motor mounts and oil pan adapt to the 351 M?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Roger
> Laguna, NM
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.nmia.com/~lawrence
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 21:48:19 -0500
From: Anthony Rio
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Snap, pop, etc.

John....

My '94 F150 2wd does the same thing. I found a TSB on it... something
about rivets in the suspension arm that rub. Said you could drill them out
and replace them with bolts to remedy, but this is a little out of my
league, so the pooping noises on mine persist. TSB said if you open the
passenger door, and the look through the opening between the door and the
truck (where the hinges are), you can see the culprit fasteners.

Hope this helps!!

Tony

- -----Original Message-----
From:Jon Berman [SMTP:jonb ford-trucks.com]
Sent:Monday, August 03, 1998 6:30 PM
To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject:FTE 80-96 - Snap, pop, etc.

Hello,
I've got a 1994 F-150, 2wd, automatic, making some strange noises.
During slow speed turns I can hear something like a popping sound when I
turn the wheel (mostly to the left side) coming from underneath the
front of the vehicle. I recently replaced all shocks and tires, but the
noise existed prior to replacing these parts and did not seem to effect
the noise.

I thought I might have seen something on this topic a couple months ago,
but I'm not positive. Could there possibly be a TSB related to this
problem?

Any suggestions or possible remedies greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jon
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 00:37:48 PDT
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Reinstalling stick bearing cap....

---

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