80-96-list-digest Sunday, July 19 1998 Volume 02 : Number 250



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - NEED HELP! TRUCK IS DOWN!
FTE 80-96 - Re: High Lift jack missile: Another idea
FTE 80-96 - Re: High Lift Jack Missile
FTE 80-96 - RE: Hi Lift Jack Missile
FTE 80-96 - Re: hi-lift jack missile TRY THIS
Re: FTE 80-96 - NEED HELP! TRUCK IS DOWN!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: hi-lift jack missile TRY THIS
FTE 80-96 - Bumper Holes???
FTE 80-96 - missing?
Re: FTE 80-96 - NEED HELP! TRUCK IS DOWN!
FTE 80-96 - Re; Trailer Tow80-96
FTE 80-96 - RE: 1993 F250 power windows

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Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 06:53:36 -0400
From: "S. Spaulding"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - NEED HELP! TRUCK IS DOWN!

Scot,

It could be a bad in-tank fuel pump. If you have two tanks, try
switching to the other one. Either way, check the fuel pressure. The
fuel filter could be clogged, too, but I would have expected a more
gradual decline in performance.

Steve S.

Scot Bohnenstiehl wrote:
>
> I have a '93 Ford F-150 with a I-6 and about 60k miles on it. I got it
> when it had about 50k miles on it. It has been running great until today,
> just barely got it home. I've been driving it just as I always have, the
> only difference is that I've been running the AC more because of the heat
> wave. After taking the offramp and stopping, the truck started to vibrate,
> like it was dying or just about outta gas, but of course I have a half
> tank. I pulled into a parking lot and let it sit for a few minutes, then
> started it back up and it ran fine for a few seconds then started dying
> again. It never actually stalled or quit on me but it always seemed like
> it was about too. Today was over a 100, actually it was the hottest day
> this summer so far. I'm a newbie to truck repair so I'm looking for all
> the help I can get. The positive side is this will be a learning
> experience for me, at least of some kind. If any of you guys know what it
> could be then please tell me.
>
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Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 08:22:22 -0600
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: High Lift jack missile: Another idea

There have been several ideas for storing your High Lift jack in this
thread and I'd like to give another.

First, if you mount the jack across the front of the box it won't come
through the cab like a missile on a sudden stop.

Start with two pieces of heavy (1/2" or 5/8") threaded rod stock about 4
or 5 inches long, 6 nuts for the rod, 6 large flat fender washers, and 6
split lock washers. You can determine the correct length for your
installation or cut to fit after installation. Measure the distance
between two holes in the lift bar of the High Lift. One near the top
and the other near the bottom. Measure for drilling two holes that will
match the holes in the High Lift in the front of the box just below the
roll at the top. Drill the two holes just large enough to clear the rod
stock. Be sure to put a board or some other protection between the box
and cab so you don't drill into the cab. Put the rod stock through the
holes and place a flat washer, lock washer, and nut on it between the
box front and cab. They go in the sequence I've given with the flat
washer against the box front. It will be a tight fit to get them in
place and on the rod stock. Put another flat, lock and nut on the
inside of the box front and tighten. Now you can put these rods through
the holes in the jack to hang it on the front of the bed. Use the
remaining washers and nuts to hold it in place. If you have access to
welder you can add wings to the last pair of nuts to use as handles so
you can mount and de-mount the jack without needing a wrench. If you
have access to a machine shop you could make smooth rods with threads at
each end but I've presented the easy hardware store approach. Use your
imagination and creativity to make it pretty if you wish.

Larry
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Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 08:59:24 -0800
From: Casey Vandor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: High Lift Jack Missile

If you could, I would like to see the phone number, I havn't gotten a
Harbor Freight Tools in a while, they usually have pretty decent prices,
but I can't remember if they have jacks or not.

Thanks
Casey Vandor
>>>>>You shouldn't have to pay that much for the 60" high lift. The
48" shoud run you $55.00 and the $60.00 should be about $62.00.
Let me know, I can get a phone # for you if you want one. Also
that is about the price if you order through "Tool Crib of the North".
I can get that phone# too.

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Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 12:16:36 -0700
From: Steve Faust
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Hi Lift Jack Missile

> JJ Wrote:
> Anybody have any ideas on how to bolt down a Hi Lift jack in a pick up
> with a topper so it does not become a missile in a collision or roll
> over? I would like to secure it someplace that we could still get to
> it easy enough when needed!
>
>
> JJ:
> Hi-Lift makes a couple of different jack mounts -- one is designed to
> hold the jack under the inside lip of bed rail. If you don't have a
> carpet kit in your truck this should work great, if not real
> accessible you might be able to adapt it to another location. The
> mounts run about $20-$25 in most off-road / parts shops that carry the
> jacks. I think they are shown on Hi-Lift's web site as well, I'll see
> if I can locate and post the site later.
>
> Let us know what you end up doing -- Good Luck!
>
> Steve Faust
> '88 F-250 Supercab 4x4
>
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Date: Sat, 18 Jul 98 12:15:18 PDT
From: "Mike Mueller"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: hi-lift jack missile TRY THIS

Fellow Fordsters-
Remember, the issue here is not to just hold this jack in one place, but=
to make sure that in the case of an accident that this doesn't continue =
travelling at 60 MPH thru the cab. He can just throw it in the bed and =
let it roll around and everything would be fine, UNTIL there was an "even=
t". Race drivers wear very very hot Nomex Underwear under their suits. =
When riding my motorcycle, I always wear a helmet. Why? Because nobody=
wakes up in the morning and says, "I think I better wear my helmet today=
, I think I may be engulfed in flames soon, or I think I may get into =
an accident" : )

PVC may be cheap but it will pull right out. I like the idea of putting =
it across the bed, right under the bed lip below the rear window (if it =
fits). But the mount has to be a secure lock so that there is no way thi=
s is ever going to get loose (unless you need it).

We had a thread much like this during the winter months regarding sand =
bags in the back for traction. Best bet then was to secure it as well. =
Was it Lethal Weapon 2 or 3 that had the surfboard fly off the top of =
one car and behead the bad guys? Enough said.

Just my .02

Thanks!

Mike Mueller
The Leasing Dept.
Equipment Leasing and Funding
www.leasingdept.com
"I want to die peacefully in my sleep like my Grandfather,
not screaming in terror like his passengers".


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 00:59:30 -0500
From: lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M Radecki)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: hi-lift jack missile TRY THIS

>>Go to the local steel and iron shop and get a scrap piece of tubular
>>steel, maybe 1" x 2"



>Great idea, and very elegant, but some of us are way too lazy for all
>that welding and fabrication. Why not use PVC pipe instead of steel? =

>Lighter/cheaper/easier! lordjanusz


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Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 12:40:50 -0700
From: Scot Bohnenstiehl
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - NEED HELP! TRUCK IS DOWN!

>Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 22:34:04 -0400
>From: Mike McWhirter
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - NEED HELP! TRUCK IS DOWN!
>
>Get your Oil Pump pressure checked asap. I had the same or similar symptoms
>and I ended up seizing the last cylinder and slicing my cam in half.
>
>Found out when we broke the motor down the sump screen was totally clogged
>with sludge. I even used STP and other treatments from time to time and it
>still sludged up.
>
>I also recommend a secondary pump for the oil.
>
>Mikey

I've checked my oil and it's fine. Is that what you mean by checking my
Oil Pump pressure? Could you tell what a sump screen is? Did you get a
secondary oil pump? You said you seized the last cylinder and sliced your
cam in half. Could you explain that to me? Sorry for all the questions
but I don't understand the lingo.

Scot

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Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 12:43:55 -0700
From: Robert Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: hi-lift jack missile TRY THIS

My .02
On a full size (Bronco) the Hi-Lift fits perfectly (w/radiator hose clamps)
under the hood across the front.


At 12:59 AM 7/18/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>Go to the local steel and iron shop and get a scrap piece of tubular
>>steel, maybe 1" x 2" (I can't remember the size of the Hi-Lift beam
>>measuring height and width). Cut it to about 3 or 4" long and bolt
>>this (you'll have to drill two different size holes thru the walls,
>>one slightly larger than the bolt of the side nearest the bed and on
>>big enough to fit the head and your socket thru on the other wall).
>>Tack weld a small piece of steel over one end so now you have an
>>elongated box w/one end open to receive the end of the Hi-Lift. Place
>>this 'box' nearest the cab and the jack will never missile toward the
>>cab. The other end (closest to the tailgate) could then have a
>>'C'-channel piece of steel bolted to the bedrail having the open side
>>facing away to accept the jack and tack a plate to the end nearest the
>>gate and then you could use your hinge and lock idea to cover the open
>>part. Make sure the distance from the tacked-on cover plates is just
>>slightly more than the length of the Hi-Lift (48"???) to prevent it
>>from sliding around and making noise.
>
>(diagram deleted)
>
>Great idea, and very elegant, but some of us are way too lazy for all
>that welding and fabrication. Why not use PVC pipe instead of steel?
>Lighter/cheaper/easier! lordjanusz
>
>'94 F150(300ci) '73 F100(360ci) '97 Saturn (SWMBO's)
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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>

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Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 15:04:53 -0600
From: Jeff fisher
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Bumper Holes???

Hello 80-96-list,

I have a 96 F-150, 4WD, Automatic, 351 and noticed that there are 6
holes in the bumper. I assumed that these were for extra cooling air
flow due to the towing or super cooling package. Other similar
trucks do not have these holes.

Any idea what the purpose of these holes really are and why they are
omitted on some?

Best regards,
Jeff mailto:jrfish seqnet.net


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Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 15:08:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: tony L
Subject: FTE 80-96 - missing?

I have a '90 ford truck with a 302, the lower intake manifold has a
thread in it that looks like a bolt or sensor is supposed to be in
between two fuel injection lines on the driver side, does anyone know
what's supposed to be there?





_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 18:42:18 -0400
From: Mike McWhirter
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - NEED HELP! TRUCK IS DOWN!

That is right, but not just level or color, get a shop to hook up a guage
to the oil pump and test it. I still have not gotten a secondary pump,
although I think it may well be worth it to have adequate oil feed over
the entire motor.

I had about 130,000 on the motor and I faithfully changed my oil and
filter every 3-4000 miles. I had a breakdown shortly after experiencing
what you described. I felt shuddering, the truck would stall at idle and
the oil was smelly. I took it in for a checkup and all was well but they
reported the oil pump pressure was low.

About a week later the motor seized the last cylinder (near the firewall)
and the connecting rod snapped and sliced the cam in half.

When we took the motor apart, we found the sump screen, a filter for the
oil pump, was totally clogged with sludge. All were surprised to see the
amount of crap in there considering the condition of my truck.

>>Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 22:34:04 -0400
>>From: Mike McWhirter
>>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - NEED HELP! TRUCK IS DOWN!
>>
>>Get your Oil Pump pressure checked asap. I had the same or similar symptoms
>>and I ended up seizing the last cylinder and slicing my cam in half.
>>
>>Found out when we broke the motor down the sump screen was totally clogged
>>with sludge. I even used STP and other treatments from time to time and it
>>still sludged up.
>>
>>I also recommend a secondary pump for the oil.
>>
>>Mikey
>
>I've checked my oil and it's fine. Is that what you mean by checking my
>Oil Pump pressure? Could you tell what a sump screen is? Did you get a
>secondary oil pump? You said you seized the last cylinder and sliced your
>cam in half. Could you explain that to me? Sorry for all the questions
>but I don't understand the lingo.
>
>Scot
>
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Techcare Incorporated
POBox 1275
503 Lancaster Avenue
Frazer PA 19355-1275


macmikey earthlink.net
Text Pager: 800-522-6606, give operator my name and message up to 55 chars

888-269-7942
610 407-0544
FAX 993-8675

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Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 20:03:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re; Trailer Tow80-96

Michael,
You asked about towing, there has been a tow a thread on the small
truck for the last several days. http://www.ford-trucks.com/
small-list ford-trucks.com. It has some more good pointers. Get the
archives since wedsday.
Dave said; (see below) the tires are a worry, I too think the
larger tires without matching gearing a potential, serious, problem for
your entire drivetrain. Try Synthetic oils, from engine to rear-end. Flush
cooling system, add clean new coolant. *An absolute must is trailer
brakes.* A heavy duty hitch is another must, unless you want to replace
your bumper in route.
UHaul has a towing booklet. Take the time, practice in an empt lot,
with empty trailer, it could save a *lot* of embarrasment later on.

Best of luck,
Andrew

Private Offer, For List Members!
Scan Your Photo's, Share Your Pictures Online. (1 to 12
photo's $4.)
For further information
(Andrew)showork gwi.net>


>Michael Pasznick wrote:
>>"Basically, I want to tow a 4000-5000lb trailer from Jersey to
>>South Dakota (~1800 miles each way). I'm really green when it comes
>>to towing equipment, so does anybody have any suggestions on how I could
>>lighten any strain on my truck, or if there might be a problem? Anything
>>from additional cooling systems to certain towing hitches to specific oil"

>Dave wrote;
>Mike, was your 95 equipped with a towing package? If so, I would be
>somewhat concerned with the much taller 31" tires you have installed. What
>little experience I;ve seen in hot summer work, these can be aproblem. They
>can get hot. Possibly. Also, I would definitely leave the tranny in 3rd, ie
>OD off. Especially with those tires. All the way. If you dont have a
>factory installed tranny cooler in front of the radiator, in series with
>the one installed in the bottom of the radiator, get one. Change your
>tranny fluid before you leave, and when you get back. Consider whether or
>not you need to pack all that um, "stuff". Can you take 3000#, instead of
>5000#? That is all heat for your engine and trans to deal with and gas
>money to boot.
>With this heat, I would consider 20/50 engine oil for the trip and go back
>to what ever you normally use when you get back. The roller lifters may
>rattle momentarily on startup, but lots of extreme heat protection is there
>for the rest of the day.
>
>Does your trailer have brakes? Have you checked the front pad remaining
>thickness on your 95? You will need the proper reciever mounted on your
>frame with the proper weight distribution of load on the trailer to give
>several hundred pounds of hitch weight. How are the tires on the trailer?
>Old, as most are? With those 31's on your truck, you may need a drop hitch
>on your reciever to keep the trailer level.
>Good luck, Dave.



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Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 23:51:08 -0700
From: Steve Faust
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: 1993 F250 power windows

Lou wrote:
My power windows will not go up without my having to push up on the
glass to assist. I can hear the motor hum when I depress the button but
the glass will not go up. It's as though it's slipping. Can I repair
this myself?

Lou:
...been there done that a couple of times on my '88 F-250. Yes you can
repair this fairly easily yourself. The power window assembly is really
two parts 1) the electric motor and 2) the 'gear' assembly which is
where your problem is. Luckily you can order this part separately from
your dealer (unfortunately not real sheep though). It's really three
small nylon pegs (about the size of 1/2" long 3/8" dowels set in a
triangular cut out in the circular nylon gear -- makes more sense when
you see it. Anyway, once you have the new part -- take off the door
panel (be careful taking off the power switch it unscrews from the back)
and then remove the plastic dust liner. You'll see where the motor
mounts to the door one of three nuts will be visible.

HERE IS THE TRICK -- there are also two little dimples where the other
two screws are located behind the sheet metal, drill them out enough to
insert a nut driven to remove these two screws. Before taking the screws
out all the way make sure you stick a hand in to support the motor
assembly so it doesn't fall to the bottom of the door and then pull it
out. Once out you can remove the old 'clutch' portion -- you'll see
broken pieces of the old nylon pegs. Make sure you clean all the broken
bits out before putting the new part on! New gear will come with fresh....


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