80-96-list-digest Saturday, July 18 1998 Volume 02 : Number 249



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Questions (caster/camber adjuster)
RE: FTE 80-96 - re: Ranger vs. boat trailer
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: High Lift jack missile
Re: FTE 80-96 - C-6 Tranny Leak
Re: FTE 80-96 - 87 ford Ranger won't start! HELP NEEDED ASAP
Re: FTE 80-96 - 87 ford Ranger won't start! HELP NEEDED ASAP
FTE 80-96 - Deffective Seatbelt Replacement
FTE 80-96 - Rough -- "Rolling Idle" Problem 1985 F150
FTE 80-96 - NEED HELP! TRUCK IS DOWN!
Re: FTE 80-96 - NEED HELP! TRUCK IS DOWN!
FTE 80-96 - 1993 F250 power windows
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough -- "Rolling Idle" Problem 1985 F150
[none]
[none]
FTE 80-96 - aftermarket fuel injection
FTE 80-96 - Re: hi-lift jack missile TRY THIS
FTE 80-96 - Re: Manual stick removal/rear main

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 07:22:06 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Questions (caster/camber adjuster)

Morning Guys,
Okay, I brought my book in with me to try and get the
terminology right. I got the ball joints off of one side last
night and the other side is waiting for me to take off the
axle. Now, on the upper ball joint it has a top nut and then
a camber/caster adjuster(sleeve) that slides into a tabbed
ring. So now, the question, that tabbed ring that the
camber/caster adjuster(sleeve) goes into is SPOT WELDED.
THAT DIDN'T seem right to me. Why have the adjustment
if half the adjustable is afixed. So I guess I need to somehow
break the spot welds.

Also, I screwed up and did not realize how it all went together
and ended up using my ball joint fork to pry up the camber/caster
adjuster(sleeve) and it is pretty much toast now. Does the
camber/caster adjuster(sleeve) and the tabbed ring I talked about
above come as a set ? Is that a part$ house, or a dealer item ?
Thanx guys :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 07:53:37 -0700
From: cassis
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - re: Ranger vs. boat trailer

You must have been on a realy steep graded boat ramp. My last truck was a
92' Ranger 2x with the 4 banger. I towed my boat (1500 lbs including
trailer) with it for the year I had it and never had a problem at any boat
ramp I launched at. Sounds like 175,000 miles on yours and its getting worn
if you cant even pull a john boat out of the water, no offense intended
just sounds like your truck is getting worn.

John Cassis
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

- -----Original Message-----
From:Tim Clevenger [SMTP:tclevenger usa.net]
Sent:Thursday, July 16, 1998 10:22 AM
To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject:FTE 80-96 - re: Ranger vs. boat trailer

Fortunately, the boat added little weight to the trailer, so it didn't
affect the performance much. The first time I tried, I gave it half
throttle and eased the clutch out as the truck accelerated. As soon as the
clutch was 3/4 out, the engine bogged and stalled. After another attempt
like this, I finally gave it 3/4 throttle and feathered the clutch
somewhere between rolling backwards and light wheelspin. Unfortunately,
that pretty much means that if I stick with the same truck, I'm limited to
boats under 500 pounds with trailer, and I'm itching to upgrade.

I agree with you--it's F-150 time. What kind of mileage do you get?
Automatic or manual?

Regards,

Tim Clevenger
90 Nissan 240SX SE
86 Ford Ranger 2WD
86 Honda Helix

- --------------------

Sounds like you need a bigger truck! I liked my '86 Ranger, but when I
traded for a '94 F150 (fuel injected 300) I got better mileage and a
truck that can tow a house off its foundation while carrying 4X8 sheets
of plywood. So how DID you get the boat out of the water, anyway?



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 08:14:55 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: High Lift jack missile

Casey Vandor wrote:

> When mine still worked, I kept it on a towel under the rear of the
> seat. It was always accesible and it was wedged in there pretty tight,
> and I also had two nylon straps around it and the seat track. Seemed to
> work fine. (just curious here, I went to replace my broken one, and all
> the stores want 79.99 for a 48" high lift jack. Does that seem
> reasonable or a little high?


You shouldn't have to pay that much for the 60" high lift. The
48" shoud run you $55.00 and the $60.00 should be about $62.00.
Let me know, I can get a phone # for you if you want one. Also
that is about the price if you order through "Tool Crib of the North".
I can get that phone# too.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 11:14:29 -0600
From: "David Sagers"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - C-6 Tranny Leak

Steve Faust wrote:

>I did check the fluid level and it appears to be much too high

Steve, with the fluid level too high it's going to leak out of the dip =
stick tube, drain some out until it's at the right level and wipe the out =
side of the tranny clean and see if it's still dripping.

Running with way too much fluid in the tranny isn't a great idea anyway.

>>> Steve Faust 07/17 1:13 AM >>>
Hey All -- Anyone even seen this one... I have been out of town and
driving my wife's rig ('98 E.B. Expedition - very nice) for the past
couple weeks so my '88 F-250 4x4 w/ 7.3 diesel & C6 tranny has been
parked for about 2-weeks. I noticed a large leak has appeared under it
and upon further inspection it is tranny fluid which appears to be
leaking from the base of the dip-stick tube. It's actually dripping of a
bottom pan bolt at a rate of about 2 drops per minute, but it's
definitely running down to this point from around the base of the dip
stick tube area. Any ideas on why it would leak from here and any
suggestions on how to remedy the situation hopefully w/o pulling the
darn thing.

I did check the fluid level and it appears to be much too high, but I
want to check it again tomorrow after a short drive to work to see how
it reads warm. Never noticed any real tranny leak before -- though I did
clean the underside with engine cleaner (Gunk) the day before I parked
it. Any ideas, thoughts or things to look for would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Steve Faust
'88 F-250 Supercab 4x4 (7.3 diesel, C6 auto tranny)
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 13:00:55 -0500
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 87 ford Ranger won't start! HELP NEEDED ASAP

Terri,

When it stalls, try removing the gas cap. If the tank venting system is
plugged, the gas drawn from the tank will leave a vaccuum in the tank.
Eventually the pump will not be able to overcome the vaccuum and the
engine will stall. When you unscrew the cap, you may hear a rush of air
being sucked into the tank (with this weather though, it is normal to
hear this too, but the sound is the gas/air vapor pressure being
released from the tank--it might be tricky to tell this difference.).
Of course, you should re-intall the cap after the vaccuum has been
equalized, before you start the vehicle.

No guarantees, but this is easy to check out. Good luck. Keep us
posted.

Terri Lawson wrote:

> Here are my new symptoms...Truck runs
> fine....suddenly it stalls. Try and start it again and it
> will try to turn over but no cigar so to speak. I am not
> hearing the fuel pump come on but I changed the relay again
> today and it did not make any difference just the usual
> relay double click. Does anyone know what could be wrong?
> Could the inertia switch be the culprit?


- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 14:53:06 EDT
From: Bakend aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 87 ford Ranger won't start! HELP NEEDED ASAP

In a message dated 7/16/98 1:45:48 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
terri mail.freetown.com writes:

> Could the inertia switch be the culprit? Any and all help
> would be appreciated fast!!! The truck is in a mall parking
That is waht happende to my 87. The connector was burnt black and had to
replace it. Runs fine now for over a year
D Baken
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 16:31:20 -0500
From: "Beaman, James"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Deffective Seatbelt Replacement

The story from my local dealer on replacing deffective seatbelts is that if
the truck has more than 50K miles, I have to buy them. Does this sound
right to others or are they obligated for the life of the truck to replace
them for free since it is safety related?

James Beaman
james.beaman lmco.com
Houston, Texas
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 15:35:20 -0700
From: Jere
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rough -- "Rolling Idle" Problem 1985 F150

I have a 1985 F150 4x4 powered by a straight 6.

It has 68,000 original miles, and it has been a very good, reliable
truck.

I regret the day that I took it in for emissions recall 91E05.
This involved changes in the vacuum hose routing. A vacuum retard delay
valve was added in the vacuum line connected to the AV control Valve.
The timing was revised from 10 to 7 BTDC, and spark plugs were changed
from BSF-42 to BSF-42 C with a new gap of .052-.056.

Since the recall work, my gas mileage has been terrible. I'm getting
about 15 miles/gallon highway.

For about the last six months I've been trying to solve a rough idling
problem. I don't think that it's related to the recall work.

The truck starts ok in any temperature weather. It accelerates normally
and the engine seems smooth enough in cruise.

While waiting at a stop light, it idles so roughly that there is a
moderate shaking sensation in the cab.

If you watch the engine at idle, it will decrease its RPM until just
about the point of stalling and then it will rev up a little and then
after about 10seconds repeat the near stall.

Obviously, from my description you can tell that I'm not much of a
mechanic. A neighbor says that this is a "rolling idle".

This is what I've done so far: New Plugs, New Wires, New Rotor and
Distributor Cap, New Fuel Filter, New PCV Valve, New Air Cleaner, Carb
Cleaner Spray, and Techron Concentrate to fresh fuel.

The vacuum lines were inspected and look ok.
The wire to the oxygen sensor is intact.
The cylinder compression is great.

I live at 7,000 feet elevation.

Any suggestions???

Thanks in advance for your help.

Jere
Flagstaff, AZ
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 18:49:41 -0700
From: Scot Bohnenstiehl
Subject: FTE 80-96 - NEED HELP! TRUCK IS DOWN!

I have a '93 Ford F-150 with a I-6 and about 60k miles on it. I got it
when it had about 50k miles on it. It has been running great until today,
just barely got it home. I've been driving it just as I always have, the
only difference is that I've been running the AC more because of the heat
wave. After taking the offramp and stopping, the truck started to vibrate,
like it was dying or just about outta gas, but of course I have a half
tank. I pulled into a parking lot and let it sit for a few minutes, then
started it back up and it ran fine for a few seconds then started dying
again. It never actually stalled or quit on me but it always seemed like
it was about too. Today was over a 100, actually it was the hottest day
this summer so far. I'm a newbie to truck repair so I'm looking for all
the help I can get. The positive side is this will be a learning
experience for me, at least of some kind. If any of you guys know what it
could be then please tell me.

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 22:34:04 -0400
From: Mike McWhirter
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - NEED HELP! TRUCK IS DOWN!

Get your Oil Pump pressure checked asap. I had the same or similar symptoms
and I ended up seizing the last cylinder and slicing my cam in half.

Found out when we broke the motor down the sump screen was totally clogged
with sludge. I even used STP and other treatments from time to time and it
still sludged up.

I also recommend a secondary pump for the oil.

Mikey

Scot Bohnenstiehl wrote:

> I have a '93 Ford F-150 with a I-6 and about 60k miles on it. I got it
> when it had about 50k miles on it. It has been running great until today,
> just barely got it home. I've been driving it just as I always have, the
> only difference is that I've been running the AC more because of the heat
> wave. After taking the offramp and stopping, the truck started to vibrate,
> like it was dying or just about outta gas, but of course I have a half
> tank. I pulled into a parking lot and let it sit for a few minutes, then
> started it back up and it ran fine for a few seconds then started dying
> again. It never actually stalled or quit on me but it always seemed like
> it was about too. Today was over a 100, actually it was the hottest day
> this summer so far. I'm a newbie to truck repair so I'm looking for all
> the help I can get. The positive side is this will be a learning
> experience for me, at least of some kind. If any of you guys know what it
> could be then please tell me.
>
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>


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 21:37:00 -0500
From: Lou Georgieff
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1993 F250 power windows

My power windows will not go up without my having to push up on the
glass to assist. I can hear the motor hum when I depress the button but
the glass will not go up. It's as though it's slipping. Can I repair
this myself? (They went out shortly after my extended warranty ended!)
Lou Georgieff

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 22:08:26 -0700
From: Gene Ball
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough -- "Rolling Idle" Problem 1985 F150

Jere, I have a 1984 4x4 F150 300-I 6
Sounds like the same thing mine was doing!
So my 1984 had a one barrel, and I have changed it
to a 4 barrel !! So I didnt bother trying to locate the problem.
But when I started taking the one barrel carb and intake off,
I noticed the carb was lose!!!!! I am sure that was my problem.
The base plate on the carb itself was lose, it was still tight on the
intake.
You might try rocking the carb with your hand while the truck is running,
to see if the idle changes at all. Good luck man!
Gene PS my truck only has 58000 miles on it

Jere wrote:

> I have a 1985 F150 4x4 powered by a straight 6.
>
> It has 68,000 original miles, and it has been a very good, reliable
> truck.
>
> I regret the day that I took it in for emissions recall 91E05.
> This involved changes in the vacuum hose routing. A vacuum retard delay
> valve was added in the vacuum line connected to the AV control Valve.
> The timing was revised from 10 to 7 BTDC, and spark plugs were changed
> from BSF-42 to BSF-42 C with a new gap of .052-.056.
>
> Since the recall work, my gas mileage has been terrible. I'm getting
> about 15 miles/gallon highway.
>
> For about the last six months I've been trying to solve a rough idling
> problem. I don't think that it's related to the recall work.
>
> The truck starts ok in any temperature weather. It accelerates normally
> and the engine seems smooth enough in cruise.
>
> While waiting at a stop light, it idles so roughly that there is a
> moderate shaking sensation in the cab.
>
> If you watch the engine at idle, it will decrease its RPM until just
> about the point of stalling and then it will rev up a little and then
> after about 10seconds repeat the near stall.
>
> Obviously, from my description you can tell that I'm not much of a
> mechanic. A neighbor says that this is a "rolling idle".
>
> This is what I've done so far: New Plugs, New Wires, New Rotor and
> Distributor Cap, New Fuel Filter, New PCV Valve, New Air Cleaner, Carb
> Cleaner Spray, and Techron Concentrate to fresh fuel.
>
> The vacuum lines were inspected and look ok.
> The wire to the oxygen sensor is intact.
> The cylinder compression is great.
>
> I live at 7,000 feet elevation.
>
> Any suggestions???
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Jere
> Flagstaff, AZ
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 15:36:39 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: [none]

Yo, Steve-
When you checked the level, did you do it with the engine running? Did you
move selector through all drive positions first?

You may be suffering from torque converter drainback. When truck sits a
long time, pan gets filled up with fluid from torque converter. That could
be why checking level indicated too full. If you drive every day you never
notice; it happens too slowly. Leaving it sit for a long time lets more
drain back. If you run for a few minutes, it should go back down. If so,
don't worry about it. Just drive it .



Steve wrote:
"Hey All -- Anyone even seen this one... I have been out of town and
driving my wife's rig ('98 E.B. Expedition - very nice) for the past
couple weeks so my '88 F-250 4x4 w/ 7.3 diesel & C6 tranny has been
parked for about 2-weeks. I noticed a large leak has appeared under it
and upon further inspection it is tranny fluid which appears to be
leaking from the base of the dip-stick tube. It's actually dripping of a
bottom pan bolt at a rate of about 2 drops per minute, but it's
definitely running down to this point from around the base of the dip
stick tube area. Any ideas on why it would leak from here and any
suggestions on how to remedy the situation hopefully w/o pulling the
darn thing.

I did check the fluid level and it appears to be much too high, but I
want to check it again tomorrow after a short drive to work to see how
it reads warm. Never noticed any real tranny leak before -- though I did
clean the underside with engine cleaner (Gunk) the day before I parked
it. Any ideas, thoughts or things to look for would be appreciated."

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX

"When you starve with a tiger, the tiger starves last."
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 20:21:23
From: yhtlines surfari.net
Subject: [none]

Michael Pasznick wrote:
"Basically, I want to tow a 4000-5000lb trailer from Jersey to
South Dakota (~1800 miles each way). I'm really green when it comes
to towing equipment, so does anybody have any suggestions on how I could
lighten any strain on my truck, or if there might be a problem? Anything
from additional cooling systems to certain towing hitches to specific oil"

Mike, was your 95 equipped with a towing package? If so, I would be
somewhat concerned with the much taller 31" tires you have installed. What
little experience I;ve seen in hot summer work, these can be aproblem. They
can get hot. Possibly. Also, I would definitely leave the tranny in 3rd, ie
OD off. Especially with those tires. All the way. If you dont have a
factory installed tranny cooler in front of the radiator, in series with
the one installed in the bottom of the radiator, get one. Change your
tranny fluid before you leave, and when you get back. Consider whether or
not you need to pack all that um, "stuff". Can you take 3000#, instead of
5000#? That is all heat for your engine and trans to deal with and gas
money to boot.
With this heat, I would consider 20/50 engine oil for the trip and go back
to what ever you normally use when you get back. The roller lifters may
rattle momentarily on startup, but lots of extreme heat protection is there
for the rest of the day.

Does your trailer have brakes? Have you checked the front pad remaining
thickness on your 95? You will need the proper reciever mounted on your
frame with the proper weight distribution of load on the trailer to give
several hundred pounds of hitch weight. How are the tires on the trailer?
Old, as most are? With those 31's on your truck, you may need a drop hitch
on your reciever to keep the trailer level.
Good luck, Dave.

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 00:39:11 -0500
From: lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M Radecki)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - aftermarket fuel injection

>
>> Has anyone ever converted a Carbureted 300cid (4.9L) I-6 engine to
>>fuel
>>injection? Is there an aftermarket product that work well or do I
>>need
>>to find a system from a junkyard?
>>
>>Gary Callahan
>>'81 F-150 Custom 4x4
>>
Clifford (www.cliffordperformance.com) offers an aftermarket setup
complete with intake manifold, fuel pump, computer and sensors, but they
want $2500 for the kit. Here's the punchline, verbatim from their
catalog (I am NOT making this up): "This system uses all GM components
for reliability..."
lordjanusz juno.com

'94 F150 (300ci) '73 F100 (360ci) '97 Saturn (SWMBO's)


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 00:59:30 -0500
From: lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M Radecki)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: hi-lift jack missile TRY THIS

>
>Go to the local steel and iron shop and get a scrap piece of tubular
>steel, maybe 1" x 2" (I can't remember the size of the Hi-Lift beam
>measuring height and width). Cut it to about 3 or 4" long and bolt
>this (you'll have to drill two different size holes thru the walls,
>one slightly larger than the bolt of the side nearest the bed and on
>big enough to fit the head and your socket thru on the other wall).
>Tack weld a small piece of steel over one end so now you have an
>elongated box w/one end open to receive the end of the Hi-Lift. Place
>this 'box' nearest the cab and the jack will never missile toward the
>cab. The other end (closest to the tailgate) could then have a
>'C'-channel piece of steel bolted to the bedrail having the open side
>facing away to accept the jack and tack a plate to the end nearest the
>gate and then you could use your hinge and lock idea to cover the open
>part. Make sure the distance from the tacked-on cover plates is just
>slightly more than the length of the Hi-Lift (48"???) to prevent it
>from sliding around and making noise.

(diagram deleted)

Great idea, and very elegant, but some of us are way too lazy for all
that welding and fabrication. Why not use PVC pipe instead of steel?
Lighter/cheaper/easier! lordjanusz

'94 F150(300ci) '73 F100(360ci) '97 Saturn (SWMBO's)

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 23:26:01 -0800
From: Casey Vandor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Manual stick removal/rear main

I have never changed a rear main, but mine leaks, I will read up on it,
and then probably have to ask a few bonehead questions, but I might as....


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