80-96-list-digest Monday, June 1 1998 Volume 02 : Number 193



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Web site updates
FTE 80-96 - axle seals
FTE 80-96 - brakes, we don't need no stinkin brakes!
FTE 80-96 - C-6 Tranny question

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Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 15:56:33 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Web site updates

- -Couple of items added to "New, Info and Member Contributions" page. Click
"Misc" button on main page to get there.

- -4 pictures added to pictorial.

- -Pigeon Forge F100 Supernationals photos are up!

- -Links section expanded. Misc. vehicle site section has been revamped with
an index.

- -It looks like the vote for the Performance group is going to pass (92%
in favor. Two more days left to vote. Go to the main web page to
find the voting link. I've already set it up and will be working
with list member Keith Srb (he's volunteered to administer it) for about
a week before it goes live.

My "to do" list is steadily get smaller. Anyone waiting on things
(such as the free web space), please be patient, I haven't forgetten!
I really do have a written "to do list!"

Regards,
Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 19:51:04 -0700
From: Don Shrader
Subject: FTE 80-96 - axle seals

Blaine wrote:

>
>
>Never heard any responces on my rear pinion seal leak.
>The answer is it cost 100 dollars to fix not bad i thought.
>But after driving to work that leak has stopped,but there is still fluid >all
>over the rear end and inside of the tires.
>Do you think it could be the axle seals, does that mean its leaking >through
>the brakes and then slinging out that way or what?
>Any help would greatly appreciated!
>Blaine in KY.

Blaine,

I had a similar problem with my 87 a few months ago. It had 99,000 mi
and didn't leak a drop anywhere. Then one day I get in to go to the
store (3 mile trip), go inside store and return to truck to see what
looked like a gallon (exageration) of rear end grase on the ground under
my Ford (my leak, surely not!). Got down there and saw it absolutely
came from my Ford for sure. Had a new seal put in and two new U-jounts
while I was at it. Paid way more than you did so you got a DEAL and you
know what I got. It was fixed though.

I'm crying now cause my perfect 87 with 102,000 mi (repainted by Ford at
87000) was totaled by a mindless driver pulling into my lane to make a
left turn while I was coming toward him at 55 MPH.

don s
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Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 19:42:48 PDT
From: "BRET LUTER"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - brakes, we don't need no stinkin brakes!

I've seen lots of postings about misc. brake questions and problems, I
figured I'd add my 0.02 worth. Here goes in no particular order:

1) Change your brake fluid AT LEAST once a year and the brake system
will be much happier; the brakes will work better; rubber parts (i.e.-
seals and hoses) will last longer; steel parts (brake lines, bleeder
screws, inside of wheel cylinders, calipers, master cylinders) will not
rust and pit. We've all heard that brake fluid absorbs moisture,
right?? Well, the only way to get the moisture out of the system is to
change the fluid regularly. Run out to the vehicle right now and look at
the brake fluid in the reservoir- it should look fairly clear with maybe
a yellowish tint to it, if it looks like tea or worse yet, coffee, it's
time to change it. If you can bleed your brakes- you can change the
fluid...I usually just use a NEW, UNOPENED quart bottle of brake fluid
and, starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, bleed each
cylinder/caliper until the fluid coming out of it is clear. Be careful
not to let the master cylinder run dry or you'll have to bleed all of
the air out of the system. I saw someone who mentioned that Audi
recommended changing brake fluid every 2 years, I know BMW recommends
changing it every year- and they've been recommending that for at least
the last 10 years now. I've been changing my fluid on a regular basis on
all my vehicles for years now- I really became a believer after pricing
new master cylinders for my old BMW ($225), I want to make it last as
long as possible. (see #2)

2) I've just done major brake service on my '85 F350 Crew Cab/ 6.9l
Diesel and for less than $200 I replaced the rear brake shoes, inner and
outer rear hub bearings, races and seals, left rear self-adjusting
mechanism, both rear wheel cylinders, BRAND NEW Master cylinder, left
rear parking brake cable, both rear axle seals. The brakes were
previously very questionable due to the previous owners total lack of
preventative maintenance. I originally thought the vacuum pump or the
brake booster were bad because the brakes were marginal at best, the
pedal dropped down as you held it. I found out that the master cylinder
seals had disintegrated and that one of the rear hub seals was leaking
so one of the rear brakes was not working at all- finally the master
cylinder let go completely so I tore it all down and now I have
Fantastic brakes!!! P.S.- I originally thought the master cylinder was
NOT the problem because it was only about 9 months old, but it turned
out to be a cheaply rebuilt unit- when I priced replacement master
cylinders I was quoted $13.99 for the rebuilt one with 1 year warranty
OR $35.99 for a COmpletely new unit- lifetime warranty- How can they
even make the raw materials for this thing for $35.99??? (can you say
"mass production"??)

3) If you use your brakes hard (i.e.- towing or carrying heavy loads all
the time) - you need to change the fluid even more often than I advocate
above. I spend alot of time on the race track and I bleed my brakes
before every track weekend- I've seen people boil their brake fluid
several times, it's not a good feeling and sometimes the only way you
can stop is to run into something (OUCH!). The brake fluid boils due to
moisture in the fluid, the water will boil at a much lower temperature
than pure brake fluid and then you have water vapor which is easily
compressed and then NO BRAKES!!

Well, that's it for now. Sorry to those who know all this BUT I feel
that it's important enough to spend some Bandwidth on.. Thanks to all.

Bret Luter, Raleigh, NC
'85 F350 Crew Cab 6.9l Diesel (BMW Hauler)

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Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 21:41:01 -0800
From: "pat daniels"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - C-6 Tranny question

I have an 88 F350 4X4 crew cab with the 460 and a C-6 tranny and my
question is what in the tranny is making the "clunk" sound when I put it in
reverse? It doesn't do it when I put it in drive, just reverse. Truck
accelerates forward and backwards as it should but the "clunk" is beginning
to bug me. Does anyone out there have or had this problem, if so what can
I do about it? The truck only 25,000 original miles so it shouldn't be due
to wear (I hope). I am changing the tranny filter and fluid today. How
about the band adjustment for the C-6, I understand the C-4 and C-5 have a
reverse band adjustment but the C-6 doesn't. Anyone shed some light on
this for me I would appreciate it.

Pat Daniels
Kodiak, Alaska
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End of 80-96-list-digest V2 #193
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