80-96-list-digest Monday, May 11 1998 Volume 02 : Number 165



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

[none]
FTE 80-96 - Re: Diesel Repower
FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96 FTE-paint
FTE 80-96 - New Lincoln SUV
FTE 80-96 - Re: Antifreeze Leak
FTE 80-96 - REcracked manifold
FTE 80-96 - Re: Paint
FTE 80-96 - Permission to use your pictures.
FTE 80-96 - Badges for the show
FTE 80-96 - Badges...we don't need no...kidding...
Re: FTE 80-96 - diesel F-250(was F-250 Farm Truck)

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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 05:10:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: J Mac
Subject: [none]

Yea, I used the sealer, thanks anyway
johnny
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 10:06:20 EDT
From: JDavis1277
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Diesel Repower

Casey,
No offense, but why do you want to convert to diesel? Sounds like a great
project if its just for the fun of it. But if its for economical
considerations you COULD end up spending more money on a conversion than you
would ever spend on a trade for a diesel truck. By the time you have changed
out your engine, transmission, Xfer case, and front axle you will have
invested a considerable sum in your project. Then you have to take care of
all the little details like wiring, gages, linkage, etc. Then, if you are
using used parts, you still won't know what you have until you get all
together and tested. What if you get a bum part or two? Having said all of
that, it still sounds like a great project. Enjoy! Butch Davis-
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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 07:51:04 -0700
From: rockinghorse webtv.net (Randall Goolsby)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96 FTE-paint

Blaine, Kinda hard to tell what grit paper to use without seeing it,but
here's a couple suggestions. You can pick up a dual-action (DA) sander
for under $30.They are pneumatic and require compressed air to operate.A
common size would be 4-5"diameter pad on the sander.3M makes adhesive
backed sandpaper in a multitude of grit to use on the types of
sanders.You simply slap a piece of sandpaper on to the pad,sand until
the paper doesn't cut well,peel off the old,slap a new one on and
continue.If you go too course on the paper,you'll scratch the metal
deeply and then have to use putty-coat or something to fill in the
scratches before you prime it.Try starting with a grit number above
300;like 320.After you get the rough stuff off,use a finer grit yet to
feather it out and smooth/blend the edges of thepaint thats left.Try 400
to 600 grit wet/dry paper on a sanding block for this and use it wet.A
mild soap or car wash added to your water will aid in reducing the drag
on the sanding block.Just a note here on the priming.Even though you are
priming it after you sand,primer was never meant to be the final
finish.It is more porous than paint and given time and rain,you'll be
back to square one with the rust.Use 600-800 grit wet dry on the dry
primer and put some paint on it.If you have an air compessor,you can buy
a quart of rustoleum and some reducer for under $35.Mix it 50/50 and
spray it. Randy















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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 15:21:28 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Lincoln SUV

WWW.FordWorldNews.Com has a feature on the new Lincoln
Blackwood SUV.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 11:34:41 -0800
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Antifreeze Leak

Well it has been a few days since I have bypassed the heater core. There is
still a leak, but it is very minimal, so I am guessing that core is the
major leak, with a little one somewhere else. I will give it a few more
days, and see what I find though. Thanks to all who replied with help and
info.

p.s. I had brought up some trouble about my truck starting and then running
like it was out of time and the mixture was way off, and I can't do anything
about it except let it sit for a few hours and then it will start again...
Well it seems to only break down when I want to use it, i.e. my birthday, or
that one day when I can't catch a ride with a friend. Well it outdid itself
lastnight, it wouldn't start on prom night. As you might guess I was rather
pissed. Just Murphy's way of looking out for me i guess....

Thanks
Casey

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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 13:37:53 -0600
From: "Randy Kindler"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - REcracked manifold

>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.0 exhaust manifold

>I think you'll find that most of them are cracked!! >Mine came off in two
>pieces. I put shorty headers on instead.

>Steve

Ditto. Mine cracked, and the replacement cracked. I finally went with JBA
shorty headers.

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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 16:26:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Paint

To: Batst bmw
RE: Paint

Hi
Over the last twenty years, I have made most of the mistakes a self
taught car painter could make. Feel free to contact me, maybe I can save
you a bit of pain. A few answers are listed below.
Get a book about it at the library.
Ask your auto paint supplier for directions in using his brand of
paint. They sell it and should know at least their brand. Often an
instruction booklet is available.
I found skipping any of the below steps causes paint to
flake off.
A moderately priced random orbit sander is all the power sander you
need, electric or air makes little difference. No mater what machine is
available nothing beats hand sanding to finish up just before you prime,
re-prime, paint, re-coat. 3M makes a steel wool like
plastic-abrasive-imbedded pad that is excellent for between coats. It comes
in several grits and the finer one makes a super pot scrubber that will
last for a year or more.
One of the best lessons I have learned is quality PAINT-REMOVER is
much better for removing paint than any kind of sanding. Carefully tape off
any areas you want to keep painted. And cover the entire vehicle one
accidental drop can be found months later as a rust spot. Sanding is for
smoothing and blending, it is to much mess, work, and effort, for removing
paint. Rust removal is a good use of sanding.
Rust, an entire book has been already written on this. I am not
completely sold on the newer products claiming to turn rust into an "armor
coat" ready for painting. I use a two kinds of acid that are made for the
purpose for killing surface rust *after* all you can get with sanding is
removed. The acids are also preferred to a self etching primer. This acid
process is crucial to killing any rust and *getting the primer to stick*.
Again ask the *Auto*Paint* store. Even if you just use a spray can, use
their brand it is worth the extra cost. For several reasons.

Another crucial part of the process is to use a Pre-Paint solvent
(prep-sol) cleaner before you start anything and just before spraying
primer and between coats after sanding. Very important, use *clean* paper
towels or paper shop rags at each step.
Consider making an appointment with a body shop ask them if you can
do some of the prep. work over a weekend and deliver it to them on a
Monday. It is very un-likely you could spray paint like a pro. And they
have the equipment. An inexpensive job could be done and done well for 1-2
hundred dollars. For the hood and top expect to spend 8-16 hours stripping
and removing rust then priming from a can. (Important, remember primer does
not keep moisture from the metal. Only a primer sealer does that. Regular
primer will rust like it is not there in a short time.) Prime it fill,
sand, fill sand, prime and again, then use primer sealer. Then take it to
an experienced spray painter to smooth it off and spray the finish coat.
Using the right sandpaper grit is an art all to itself. Start with
150 and work toward 1000 grit (up to 2000 grit could be used). Jumping no
more than 80-100 grit in the low numbers and no more than 300 in the upper
numbers. Again hand wet sanding is still the best.

Ugh! There is a lot more to tell.
Hope no one was bored by this.
Andrew



>Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 06:47:25 EDT
>From: Batst bmw
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - paint
>
>I have some surface rust on the hood and roof of my truck. Its sun damage from
>16 years in arizona. now its in KY. so i need to sand and primer these areas.
>What type of sander is recommended, and what about grit options?
>Thans, Blaine in KY.


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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 22:13:03 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Permission to use your pictures.

Tonight Peggy and I were scanning in several pictures mailed to
us for the pictorial and t-shirt. We have an idea for the booth
at the Pigeon Forge show.

We want to display these trucks on a bulletin board to let people
know what type of trucks our members drive. We're also going to
print out several from the pictorial. If you have any objection
to your truck being displayed let us know and we won't show it.
Email us privately about this (kpayne mindspring.com).

Pictures will be displayed at the show and not given out to
anyone. Also, if your truck from the pictorial doesn't show up,
its probably because the image didn't print out too well, not
because we didn't like it. Ink jet printers can be picky about
what prints out good.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 22:18:31 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Badges for the show

jniolon uss.com has sent a design to be used as badges
at the Pigeon Forge show to identify yourself as a
Ford Truck Enthusiast member:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/badge.gif

Feel free to download and print it. Thanks to
John Niolon for this design!

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 22:34:23 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Badges...we don't need no...kidding...

Nice job on the badge, John. He's probably on the 61-79 list and
won't see this anyway...hehe. Ken, I bet if you put up a banner
(John, got an idea for that?) that was sure to include the URL I bet
you'd get quite an increase on the mailers. Watcha think? I mean,
I'm sure you don't have time to make one, but maybe another list
member could. Just an idea. OTOH, maybe you already have one, but
remember it was MY idea....just kidding.
Later,
Randy

Ken Payne wrote:
>
> jniolon uss.com has sent a design to be used as badges
> at the Pigeon Forge show to identify yourself as a
> Ford Truck Enthusiast member:
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/badge.gif
>
> Feel free to download and print it. Thanks to
> John Niolon for this design!
>
> Ken Payne
> CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
> http://www.ford-trucks.com
>
> = Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
> Send posts to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with
> "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the message body.
> =======================================================================
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 21:39:34 -0500
From: Sven Setterdahl
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - diesel F-250(was F-250 Farm Truck)

One thing to keep in mind when looking at the early Navistar diesels (7.3L Powerstroke &
7.3L Turbo Diesel) is the cavitation syndrome. A little mix up that caused the notice to
check the coolant regularly for the special additive to be omitted from Ford's owners
manuals. Check out the following link for more info on this:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.abol.com/.query.tips.forddieselmain.Coolant~20Recommendations

Sven

> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 06:37:05 -0700
> From: "Scottie Schmidt"
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - diesel F-250(was F-250 Farm Truck)
>
> Hi, I posted a message about my granfather buying an F-250 for his farm,
> and someone said that he should get a diesel, and i thank that person for recomending
> that and i agree, but my grandfather does not think he needs it and he says it would
> cost more. Also i stated in the message that he wants a 92 or newer and he wants
> it to have less than about 60,000 miles, someone asked why those specifacations?
> if it were up to me i would just get one that is not to old and in good condition.
> But he says he wants one that is not old and he wants it to be pretty new (he is
> that kind of person meanining he has to have a car that is pretty new).
> At this point we have just about made our mind thanks to you guys, we want
> an F-250 that is a 92 or newer, in good condition, less than about 70,000 miles,
> and maybe a diesel, he would like it to be under $11,500 if possible. If anyone
> has one with these specifacations or knows of anyone with these specifacations and
> it is for sale in Maryland, New Jersy, PA, or Delaware please let me know.
> Sory for such a long message,
> Scottie
> Scottie.Schmidt mailexcite.com
>

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