80-96-list-digest Wednesday, September 30 1998 Volume 02 : Number 338



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Changing coolant
Re: FTE 80-96 - Alignment ?? in 89 F-350 CC 4x2 DRW
Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 rough idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 rough idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - Trailer hitch questions for '85 F-350
Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 rough idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 rough idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Ranger problem
FTE 80-96 - Exhaust systems don't last very long
Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Ranger problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Alignment ?? in 89 F-350 CC 4x2 DRW
FTE 80-96 - Fuel Filter
FTE 80-96 - Re: F-250 CrewCab shortbeds
FTE 80-96 - Re: Trailer hitches
FTE 80-96 - Fuel Filter
FTE 80-96 - Model TT dump truck
FTE 80-96 - Thanks
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Your story in a Ford truck book
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear Diff questions/info
Re: FTE 80-96 - Exhaust systems don't last very long

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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 13:13:50 +0200
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnar?= Huse"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Changing coolant

Having changed coolant (and radiator) on a VW Transporter diesel (54 hp
rocket machine), I'm approaching the change on mye E-250 diesel with
awe. Is there an air bleed valve somewhere on the rear (or front)
heater, or do I just drain/flush the system and refill?

- -- =

Bj=F8rnar Huse
=C5lesund, Norway
Tel. +47 92 45 01 56 =

Fax. +47 70 10 24 31
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://bryggen.bgnett.no/~bjornar
1 Son, 3 yrs
1 Groenendael, 4 yrs
1 1990 Ford E-250 Club Wagon 7.3 diesel, 3.54, E4OD
1 1994 Ford Escort 1.3
1 1986 Ford Escort 1.6 Wagon (resurrected)
Oh, yes, one 1971 wife, too!
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 07:54:11 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Alignment ?? in 89 F-350 CC 4x2 DRW

Mike S. in FL wrote:

> Hi: I'm getting ready to put some new tires on the truck and was
> wondering about alignment and such. A friend told me that you don't
> align the bigger trucks, but that seems pretty strange to me. Aren't
> there some sort of adjustments that need to be made when putting on new
> tires / wheels?

Mike,
I personally do not know of anyone that doesn't get an alignment
with new tires. Yeah, sometimes they adjust the camber with the
camber adjuster, which is located on both upper ball-joints. The
camber adjusters are finished surfaces at various degrees from
0.0 to 2 degrees in increments of 0.2 degrees(I think). Now the
camber adjusters from Ford only have a 180 degree turn notch
for adjustment. But the ones you can get from an alignment shop
have many more notches that gives them a lot of flexabilitly in
getting the alignment more precise. Now the camber adjusters
at Ford costs $25.00 a piece, but I do not know what an alignment
shop charges for the suckers. Sorry, I guess I told you more than
you probably wanted to know. :-( But atleast I stopped there.
There is also toe-in/toe-out.

Anyways, to answer your question, yes in my opinion, you should
get an alignment after new tires.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 08:25:51 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 rough idle

Garr&Pam wrote:

> Every Lightning I see idles a little rough and I have asked this
> question on the Lightning list and it has alot to do with being speed
> density and not mass air! Some other things that were mentioned was a
> dirty EGR system and try cleaning the fuel system, throttle body,

Since I don't have one of these new models, would someone
please splane to me what exactly is meant by mass air and how
it applies. I mean does it serve as a vacuum of sorts or what ?
Any details will be appreciated. I would like to tell my boss
I have learned something today. :-)
- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 09:47:09 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 rough idle

Rick Wojciechowski wrote:
>
> Since I don't have one of these new models, would someone
> please splane to me what exactly is meant by mass air and how
> it applies. I mean does it serve as a vacuum of sorts or what ?
> Any details will be appreciated. I would like to tell my boss
> I have learned something today. :-)
>
Red means "stop". Green means "go". ;-)

There are an assortment of devices used for this purpose. Mass Air
sensors are used on a lot of cars (and trucks) Another variation is a
Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor.

The whole purpose of these is to 'tell' the computer how much air is
being ingested by the engine. Not sure how this particular sensor works,
but usually, it takes some sort of known value, some sort of variable
value and computes the mass of air.

Some have a heated wire in them, given the ambiant temperature and how
much electricity it takes to keep the wire at a given temp you can
calculate how much air is flowing.

Some have a spring loaded flap that closes off the intake. By measuring
how much the flap is deflected, you get air flow.

Some measure the pressure drop accross (in?) a venturi. By knowing the
ambient ressure you can calculate the air flow.

And once you have the air flow, with a time constant, you have the mass
of air. And once you have that, you have an idea of how long to open the
injectors to get the Air/Fuel ratio you want at that point.

FI is easy :). Now I have to figure out carburators. :)

- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 08:55:03 -0500
From: David Cole
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Trailer hitch questions for '85 F-350

, you wrote:

>
>I'm looking into a frame mounted trailer hitch for my '85 F350 crew cab,
>single rear wheel, 6.9l diesel. I'd like to get the most heavy-duty
>hitch I can get (within reason). I've seen lots of Class III frame
>hitches (at Wal-mart even!!) for less than $100 but I'd like some input
>from those of you who've "been there, done that".

Hi Bret,

I have a class III hitch I bought at Wal-Mart. I've been very happy with
it, no problems at all. If you go this route make sure that you get the
"Reese" brand hitch. Most of Wal-Mart has this brand, but a few stores
also carry an off brand. I recently made a career move. Up until 2
months ago I was a store manger for Wal-Mart for the past 10 years. In
that time I don't think that I had a Reese hitch returned for any reason.

Most of the Class III
>"off-the-shelf" hitches I've seen list lots of different Ford, Ch*vy and
>D*dge trucks using the same exact hitch- Are they really the same??

My hitch is like that. The two side plates of the hitch have a flange at
the top where it bolts to the frame. For Ford and Dodge the flanges face
out. For Chevy they face in. The frame width is less on the Chevy.
Installing it was easy. Only had to drill two holes. The other four holes
were already in the truck frame from the factory, I just had to enlarge
them from 7/16" to 1/2". This is on a 92 F-150 Ext Cab.

>I'll be using the truck to tow an open car trailer with a 2500# car on
>it anywhere from 300-600 miles at a time AND I'll be using it to haul a

I use mine to haul a 3400 # race car on a 20 ft all steel open trailer,
pulls well even with my puny 302/AOD combo. 75+ on the Interstate, and
you don't even know it's there.

>
>What about the Class IV hitches I've seen? They look basically the same
>as the Class III hitches with extra attachment points to the frame.

The class IV stuff is nice, but do you really need it? Most of the 2''
receivers and hitch balls that you will find are only rated to 5K lbs I
looked for a while and found some that are 7500 lbs. No need in having a
hitch that is stronger than the receiver or hitch ball. A friend of mine
has a Reese Class IV and the onlt difference I could see was that the
safety chain attachment points were a little thicker.

Later,

David Cole

>Thanks to all in advance. Bret Luter, Raleigh, NC..


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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 09:16:08 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 rough idle

Andre Roy wrote:

> Red means "stop". Green means "go". ;-)

Your kill'n me Andre. :-)



> Some measure the pressure drop accross (in?) a venturi. By knowing the
> ambient ressure you can calculate the air flow.


So I guess I have this on my mustang ? since its a '92 and 5.0L ?
Since its FI.


> FI is easy :).

I wouldn't go that far. :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 10:55:15 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 rough idle

Rick Wojciechowski wrote:
>
> Andre Roy wrote:
>
> > Red means "stop". Green means "go". ;-)
>
> Your kill'n me Andre. :-)
>
Only if you "go" on red.....

> > Some measure the pressure drop accross (in?) a venturi. By knowing the
> > ambient ressure you can calculate the air flow.
>
> So I guess I have this on my mustang ? since its a '92 and 5.0L ?
> Since its FI.
>
Danged if I know. This is my first Ford, (sounds like a title for a
kiddie book). Until now, I knew that Fords had blue ovals on them. But
I'm getting there.

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) is what I have on my

- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 10:30:40 -0500
From: "Bob Johnson"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Ranger problem

Byran:

I've been fighting a similar problem. Thought I'd tell you what I've tried,
hope it might help. You didn't say, but I assume you have the 2.9l efi V6 -
my '86 Ranger does.

Had several shops run diagnostics - the only code has been for insufficient
flow thru the EGR. Replaced the EGR - it was caked with soot. Fuel pressure
checked at the rail at least twice - tested OK. Found the wires to the O2
sensor damaged and barely connected (one broke when I touched it). Replaced.
Truck ran better for a couple hundred miles.

Replaced the cap, rotor, plug wires. Replaced the plugs. Here's something
you might check - I had just purchased the truck w/ 95K on the odometer.
When I pulled the plugs, they looked original - very very worn - effective
gap was twice spec. Ran better for a day or two.

Replaced the coil and the air filter. Cleaned the throttle body and the idle
air bypass valve. Ran better for a while.

On vacation (of course) it suddenly got worse - would hardly run at all,
wouldn't idle, lots of black smoke. Found that the fuel pressure regulator
failed (torn diaphragm) and was feeding fuel directly into the intake thru
the vacuum hose. Also feeding fuel into the power brake booster. Replaced
both. Truck ran fine - for about 200 miles. This was the only repair done by
a shop (Firestone).

Took it to my local Firestone under "warranty." They diagnosed the problem
as a failed/failing TFI module and also found the EGR sensor broken (which
shop did me that favor?). I replaced both - truck ran fine for a day or two.

The truck runs better every time I do ANYTHING. But as soon as I start to
think "Well, I guess that did it," it starts running poorly again.

Most recent attempted fix - new TPS on the advice of a mechanic friend. Is
running well - but who knows.

I hate to diagnose/fix anything by throwing parts at it, but each attempted
fix was based on a reasonable theory of what was wrong (or so I tell
myself). The stuff I have replaced has all been pretty cheap - shop around.
The exception was the repair on vacation - almost $500. Ouch. But by that
time, it would have been OK with me if it had solved the problem.

I am disgusted with the local shops - thieves who seem to know less than I
do (and that's scary). So I've bought a code scanner - but have not used it
yet. Also read a post a long time ago from a member who solved a similar
problem by disconnecting and reconnecting the ECM computer - theory was poor
connections/corroded terminals. It worked for him - I sorry to admit I
haven't tried it yet.

I haven't figured out how to isolate the problem - too much fuel or too
little spark? I'm wondering about the integrity of the O2 sensor circuit.
Wondering about the injectors (can an injector "hang" open or leak?). Wonder
about the temp sensor (does the ECM think the engine is cold and try to run
rich?). If anyone has any ideas, let us know.

Good luck. I still love that Ranger.

Bob


Bryan Maycock wrote:

> ...I own a 1986 V6, automatic with a little over 100,000 miles (206,000
km) on
> the engine. I am experiencing an intermittent problem that is baffling the
> mechanics around here.
>
> Essentially what happens is that when the engine has warmed up, about 5
> miles down the highway, it begins repeatedly to hesitate as if momentarily
> cutting out. This will continue for 20 miles at which time I have arrived
at
> work and the beast is parked for a few hours. In the city, at lower
speeds,
> it seems to do fine. When I return home later in the day, it is less of a
> problem and, sometimes, no problem at all.
>
> The hesitation occurs when the engine isn't working too hard. If I put my
> foot down it may pick up without much difficulty and continue to run
> smoothly until traffic conditions, or a downhill/flat section causes me to
> ease off on the gas.
>
> If, as I am driving, I put truck into neutral and hit the gas, black
> exhaust is visible - unburnt gas.
>
> We have tried testing it at the Ford dealership, which suggests but
doesn't
> confirm a possible solution. As a result, my mechanic tries various
> replacements - oxygen sensor for one- and adjustments but with little
> success.
>
> Most recently, we have tried a replacement computer. This seemed to
improve
> things for a few trips but, today, it was back to its old tricks.
>
> Any advice would be most welcome.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bryan (not a mechanic but one who depends upon the knowledge of others!)
>

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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:54:13 -0400
From: jdev mitre.org (John DeVincentis)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Exhaust systems don't last very long

It seems that I have to replace parts of my exhaust system every two years
or so. Are there different quality exhaust systems out there, or are they
all the same?
How about painting it with some hi temp/barbeque paint (rated at 1000
degrees F)?
I am open for suggestions. I am considering changing to a shorter exhaust
system so that there are few parts to maintain.

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions,
John Dee
'92 F150

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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 12:02:56 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Ranger problem

Bob Johnson wrote:

[a range of Ranger problems and fixes]

>
> I haven't figured out how to isolate the problem - too much fuel or too
> little spark? I'm wondering about the integrity of the O2 sensor circuit.
>
At proper A/F ratio, the O2 sensor should read about .5 V. use a high
impedance voltmeter.

> Wondering about the injectors (can an injector "hang" open or leak?).
>
Yes. Leaking is not uncommon. When was the last time you cleaned the
injectors?


> Wonder
> about the temp sensor (does the ECM think the engine is cold and try to run
> rich?).
>
Could be, But I would think that the computer would notice that the
engine is taking too long to reach operating temperature. Get that code
scanner going, it's hard to diagnose without knowing what the computer
thinks is going on.

- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 12:15:21 -0400
From: "Mike S. in FL"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Alignment ?? in 89 F-350 CC 4x2 DRW

Thanks Rick, that's what I've always done before, but I've never had an
F-350 (dually) before either. There was some question about whether or
not it was possible to do an alignment. It seemed silly to me that
someone would make a vehicle without the ability to align the wheels.

Mike
(Remove the 'downto.' for email responses.)

'89 F-350 7.3dsl, CC, 4x2, DRW
'88 Taurus LX (paperweight)
'89 Chevy G20 van


Rick Wojciechowski wrote:
>
> Mike S. in FL wrote:
>
> > Hi: I'm getting ready to put some new tires on the truck and was
> > wondering about alignment and such. A friend told me that you don't
> > align the bigger trucks, but that seems pretty strange to me. Aren't
> > there some sort of adjustments that need to be made when putting on new
> > tires / wheels?
>
> Mike,
> I personally do not know of anyone that doesn't get an alignment
> with new tires. Yeah, sometimes they adjust the camber with the
> camber adjuster, which is located on both upper ball-joints. The
> camber adjusters are finished surfaces at various degrees from
> 0.0 to 2 degrees in increments of 0.2 degrees(I think). Now the
> camber adjusters from Ford only have a 180 degree turn notch
> for adjustment. But the ones you can get from an alignment shop
> have many more notches that gives them a lot of flexabilitly in
> getting the alignment more precise. Now the camber adjusters
> at Ford costs $25.00 a piece, but I do not know what an alignment
> shop charges for the suckers. Sorry, I guess I told you more than
> you probably wanted to know. :-( But atleast I stopped there.
> There is also toe-in/toe-out.
>
> Anyways, to answer your question, yes in my opinion, you should
> get an alignment after new tires.
>
> --
> Thanks,
> Rick Wojo
> '83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
> '92 Mstng 5.0L
> '95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)
>
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- --
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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 12:36:13 PDT
From: "spunky skunk"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Filter

I am new to the list but I have got a lot of good info. from it already.
I have a question. I own a '92 F150 and I was trying to change the fuel
filter (don't ask how long it's been on there)last night but couldn't
remove the "quick disconnect" fittings. Now, I checked my Chilton's
manual and it was wrong. Mine is nothing like the picture in there, the
one in there has retaining clips holding the fitting on mine doesn't
appear to have anything. I pushed it, pulled it, squeezed it but no
dice; won't come off. Can anyone give me some advice on how to remove
the connector from the filter?
Thanks,
Spunky

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 12:37:40 PDT
From: "Denis SIS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: F-250 CrewCab shortbeds

Hi all,
This is a great alternative to look into if one wants more interior
room over an extended cab truck, but don't want the length of a crew cab
AND a longbed. I looked into purchasing one of these a couple of years
ago when they first came, but decided my 89 F350/CC/ SRW/LB/5.8L/C6 was
paid for and works just fine. The only thig I did not like about the
truck was that the only engines available were the 460ci and the diesel.
The 351(5.8L) is standard in the F350 CC, but not available in the F250
CC. 460 was standard. Go figure. BTW, you could also get a F250
SuperCab/shortbed, but I am uncertain of the available engines.
1999 Super Duty - You can now order: F350 CrewCab SB or LB, F350
SuperCab SB or LB, F250 CrewCab SB or LB, F250 SuperCab SB or LB, with
any available engine.
No flames over this, please: FYI - Chevy is offering a crew cab short
bed for 1999.

Have a great day
Denis Hergenreter
1989 F350 CrewCab

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 13:07:28 PDT
From: "Denis SIS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Trailer hitches

Hi all,
Try a U-Haul dealer. I bought mine from them a few years back for $130
installed with a lifetime warranty. No problems what so ever.

Denis Hergenreter
1989 F350 CrewCab

______________________________________________________
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Date: 30 Sep 1998 19:02:48 EDT
From: Hawk sktc.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Filter

80>I am new to the list but I have got a lot of good info. from it already.
80>I have a question. I own a '92 F150 and I was trying to change the fuel
80>filter (don't ask how long it's been on there)last night but couldn't
80>remove the "quick disconnect" fittings. Now, I checked my Chilton's
80>manual and it was wrong. Mine is nothing like the picture in there, the
80>one in there has retaining clips holding the fitting on mine doesn't
80>appear to have anything. I pushed it, pulled it, squeezed it but no
80>dice; won't come off. Can anyone give me some advice on how to remove
80>the connector from the filter?
80>Thanks,
80>Spunky

If you have a gasoline motor, the fittings are like the high pressure
fuel line or AC line. You will need the little tool that slides on the
line up inside the hose to release the spring. (The spring slides over
a knuckle on the line to hold the hose on) I believe this type of
connection is called a spring lock, and about any parts store will have
the tool in an assortment of sizes, shouldn't be too expensive. Good
luck. Oh yeah, if you have a diesel, please disregard this entire post.
Buck Shoff

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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 21:57:01 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Model TT dump truck

If anyone is interested, there is a Model TT dump truck
for sale for $4100 obo on the web site. Its on the main
classifieds page, scroll to the bottom and you'll see
a picture of it. The owner is about to retire to Florida
and asked me to announce it to the group. Given the fact
that they need to get rid of it, the price is probably
pretty flexible.

Ken Payne
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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 21:24:15 -0500
From: DeForest Ray Sparks
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Thanks

Thanks for the help Matt,........I hope I got the right person thanked, :).
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
Spirit Father protect me and guide me as I follow this path .
Earth Mother I ask that you allow me to walk this path and to
forgive me for disturbing your peace .( DRS )
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
www.geocities.com/nashville/opry/1308
or
www.fortunecity.com/tinpan/bootsy/59
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
deforestsparks geocities.com / alucard stic.net / DRaySparks juno.com
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
deforest_ray_sparks fcmail.com / Alucard78016 netscape.net
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
Reach me by ICQ. My ICQ# is 16820009 or,
* Page me online through my Personal Communication Center:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://wwp.mirabilis.com/16820009 (go there and try it!) or,
* Send me E-mail Express directly to my computer screen
16820009 pager.mirabilis.com
For downloading ICQ at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.icq.com/
For adding similar signatures to your e-mail go to:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.icq.com/emailsig.html
- ----------------------------------------------------

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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 22:41:30 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Your story in a Ford truck book

Hi everyone, I receive the following email from someone. I thought
it would be a good idea to pass it on to the lists. Contact Judy
about this (address below), not me.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

>>From jcscott ican.net
>Reply-To:
>From: "judy scott"
>To:
>Subject: Tough Tales
>X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
>
>Hi Webmaster,
>
>You and your members can see their name in print and
>get a Free copy of Tough Tales (working title). Here's
>how. I have a contract to publish a book comprised of
>a brief history of the F-series trucks, a glance at their
>ads, and STORIES BY OWNERS OF F-SERIES TRUCKS.
>The latter is where you and your members can
>contribute. All owners whose stories are published will
>see their name in print and receive a FREE copy of
>Tough Tales. THe kind of stories I need will tell about
>my love affair with my Ford truck, why I love my
>Ford, how I got my very first Ford truck, my grandma's
>ole Ford, I'll never forget the day/night....,etc.
>
>Tough Tales is the people side of the awesome F-series
>trucks. I'm ready to roll with it but need more stories.
>Would you consider publishing my request on your
>site?
>
>Look forward to your response.
>
>Judy Scott : )
>
>PS: I have subscribed to the 1997 and up digest and
>can't seem to unsubscribe. Can you help me?
>
>
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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 23:00:53 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear Diff questions/info

Dave,
What did you do, cut and paste that info onto the page or what? :)

Later,
Randy (Brew)

Dave Resch wrote:
>
> >From: "Jorge Ramirez"
> >Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rear Diff questions/info
> >
> snip
> >
> >and both the Haynes manual and the owners manual say to use
> >HYPOID oil, with a specific Ford part # (which I don't have in front
> >of me). I looked at the bottles at the auto parts stores and I found
> >that the CASTROL HYPOY-C has the Ford part #.
> >
>
> Yo Jorge, et al:
>
> First let's clarify what "hypoid" means. Hypoid is a term that refers to
> the design of the ring and pinion gears in the differential. It is a
> shortened name for "hyperboloidal pitch," which describes a type of bevel
> gear with a hyperboloid pitch to the gear teeth, rather than a straight
> conical pitch (i.e., a mitre bevel gear). Almost all automotive final
> drive gears are one of two types: hypoid bevel or spiral bevel. Spiral
> bevel gears have a circular pitch to the gear teeth. Both hypoid and
> spiral bevel gears are better suited to transmitting large amounts of
> torque than the same size mitre (straight conical) bevel gears.
>
> The main significance of hypoid gears in automotive axles is that hypoid
> gears allow the axis of the pinion gear (driven by the driveshaft) to be in
> a different plane than the ring gear (which drives the axle shafts).
> Spiral bevel gears require the pinion axis to be in the same plane as the
> ring gear axis. Hypoid gears are larger than spiral bevel gears of the
> same capacity, which also allows the hypoid gear pinion to use a larger
> diameter shaft, which is a more efficient design because the torque
> capacity of the pinion shaft is more closely matched to the torque capacity
> of the gear set.
>
=====snip=====

> Good luck w/ your truck.
>
> Dave R. (M-block devotee)
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 23:17:00 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Exhaust systems don't last very long

John,
I am so tired of these cheesy exhaust systems they put on anymore.
The shops 'claim' they get eaten from the inside-out. Painting
doesn't really help, it burns off too easily (although recently I
heard a suggestion of 'stove' black paint that you'd see on a
pot-belly stove). You can use header tape on headers (if that's what
you have) and aluminized exhaust helps....a little. But for a
fire-and-forget method, there's no substitute for Stainless Steel.
You can by an entire exhaust on the aftermarket for your vehicle. Now
they don't come cheap but when you figure the price you pay for that
exhaust every year or two plus your time to get it to the shop and
back, it's a good investment in the long haul. I had a quote locally
for $450 dollars for 3" s/s mandrel bent (no ridges on bends, the same....


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