80-96-list-digest Wednesday, September 23 1998 Volume 02 : Number 327



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Truck seat
FTE 80-96 - Re: politics
FTE 80-96 - Vent controls
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: politics
Re: FTE 80-96 - Overspray
Re: FTE 80-96 - Overspray
Re: FTE 80-96 - Overspray
FTE 80-96 - Re: Rear Main Seal Leaking
Re: FTE 80-96 - AC/Heater Blower motor only work on the hi setting
Re: FTE 80-96 - Overspray
Re: FTE 80-96 - What engine?
Re: FTE 80-96 - solenoid smokin'
Re: FTE 80-96 - solenoid smokin'

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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 22:56:51 -0500
From: "Anthony Trantham"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Truck seat

Hey gang,
I was wondering if anyone knows of a place that sells aftermarket truck
bench seat, like the one in the '97 F-250 the 40/20/40 seat. I have a '92
F-250 and would like to get rid of the vinyl seat and gain a arm rest.

Thanks in advance,
Anthony


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Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 00:29:21 EDT
From: Iguannna aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: politics

I do not think this is the place to discuss politics.

In a message dated 9/23/98 12:06:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com writes:

> Rob Bryan
>
> "If a President of the United States ever lied to the
> American people he should resign."
> - -- Bill Clinton, in 1974 while running for the U.S. House.
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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 21:52:52 -0700
From: mparrott thomas.com (Michael Parrott)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Vent controls

I am trying to chase down this problem on my 89 e-350 clubwagon, any help or suggestions?? When I turn on my AC/heater/fan the air only comes out of the defrost vents on top of the dash. I can move the control lever all the way acrossed the selections and no change. The AC/heater functions do work. Could this be a vacuum problem somewhere or maybe a mechanical problem??

Mike P
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Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 01:52:21 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: politics

At 12:29 AM 9/23/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I do not think this is the place to discuss politics.
>

Let's not start a flame war over someone's signature.



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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 23:29:12 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Overspray

I have the crappy early '90s Ford paint (dark blue), the paint is only
chipping off in a couple of spots but the real problem is that every little
twig leaves a streak in the paint and regular wax will not take them out.
Is there anything that can take these hundred of little streaks out of the
paint and something that will protect the paint so it will not happen
anymore? I don't have the kind of money to get my Bronco repainted so any
help would be great.
- -----Original Message-----
From: JSC721 aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, September 23, 1998 1:19 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Overspray


>Hey Craig,
>I know of a product called lite finish, it will remove overspray,oxidation
&
>machine swirl marks.its a cleaner polish and can be used by hand, but its
not
>sold in stores.My livlihood is supplying body shops ,detail shops, & car
>dealers with these products.
> I dont want to offend any of the members by promoting my products, but i
know
>a great deal about paint restoration and would like to help in any way i
>can.even if it does not pertain to my stuff. Many times when people think
that
>the paint on their vehicle is shot, it can be saved.if you have any
questions
>e-mail me at jsc721 aol.
>
> Joe
>Carollo
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 01:39:20 -0500
From: "BigRed"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Overspray

I deal with that quite often since I'm a recon man at a Ford dealership
(hoping to find a real job since I just graduated college). We almost always
buff it off, but I wouldn't recommend it if you have never done it before.
I've seen a lot of people burn through the paint trying to do it themselves.
When people come in and don't want to spend the money to have us do it I
tell them to try some stuff at the local auto parts store (never tried
myself, but have heard of others who have). Some people say that the Clay
Magic stuff works and others like the turtle wax bug and tar remover. I
couldn't tell you from experience if they work, but they sell plenty of
stuff for you to try. Whatever you try, try it in an inconspicuous spot in
case it has any bad effects on the truck paint itself.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wallace, Craig
To: 80-96 Ford Trucks
Date: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 4:16 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Overspray


>Hey All!
>
>As I was getting ready to wax my truck this last weekend, I noticed some
>very
>fine overspray ALL over it. I know it came from a contractor spraying a
new
>building here on campus where I work. My employer is denying every case
>saying that it's jet fuel or tree sap!?! Whatever!!!
>
>Anyway, I want to remove it. I've seen on TV where WD-40 claims you can
use
>their product for removal of tar, grime, bugs, etc. Has anyone used it for
>overspray removal? If not, what is the best product for this application?
>I
>don't want to mar the finish.
>
>Thanks,
>Craig
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 02:02:10 -0500
From: "BigRed"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Overspray

Get it buffed out. You'd be amazed at what a good buffing can do. I do it
every day and I'm still amazed. I don't know what a shop around you would
charge (if you don't do it yourself), but if you lived near me (which I'm
almost positive you don't) I do it for people I know for $20. That's a hell
of a deal compared to what the shop would charge. Go to the auto parts store
and pick up some rubbing compound. You can do it by hand since you probably
don't have a buffer laying around. By hand won't do as good a job and takes
a bit longer, but it can be done. Then just keep waxing it often.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Radoje Spasojevic
To: Joe ; 80-96-list ford-trucks.com

Date: Wednesday, September 23, 1998 1:39 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Overspray


>I have the crappy early '90s Ford paint (dark blue), the paint is only
>chipping off in a couple of spots but the real problem is that every little
>twig leaves a streak in the paint and regular wax will not take them out.
>Is there anything that can take these hundred of little streaks out of the
>paint and something that will protect the paint so it will not happen
>anymore? I don't have the kind of money to get my Bronco repainted so any
>help would be great.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: JSC721 aol.com
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Date: Wednesday, September 23, 1998 1:19 AM
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Overspray
>
>
>>Hey Craig,
>>I know of a product called lite finish, it will remove overspray,oxidation
>&
>>machine swirl marks.its a cleaner polish and can be used by hand, but its
>not
>>sold in stores.My livlihood is supplying body shops ,detail shops, & car
>>dealers with these products.
>> I dont want to offend any of the members by promoting my products, but i
>know
>>a great deal about paint restoration and would like to help in any way i
>>can.even if it does not pertain to my stuff. Many times when people think
>that
>>the paint on their vehicle is shot, it can be saved.if you have any
>questions
>>e-mail me at jsc721 aol.
>>
>> Joe
>>Carollo
>>
>>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 04:28:29 -0300
From: sbest
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Rear Main Seal Leaking

>From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear Main Seal Leaking Vol 2-323

>> come out. His "book" said 6 hours for one job and 8 hours for the other
but I
>> can't remember which way it went.
>
>John, You gotta remember, I think this is for someone who has all the
>right tools for the job. Doesn't have to MAKE DO with what they
>have. Also someone that works on cars in general for a living. I'm
>sure now I could do it in two evenings after work. But I also have
>had a little practice. :-( I think for the home shadetree mechanic
>you should allow a few week nights or a full weekend. The only
>problem with the weekend is that parts Stores usually close by noon
>on Saturdays and ofcourse then you have to wait until Monday
>anyways if you need someth'n. Anyways I got a little off track here.
>I was just saying that a little more time is probably best to put
>into the schedule. That way if you finish early then you have a
>bonus.
>Thanks,> Rick Wojo




Another rule of thumb Rick, might be:
"If your gonna drive old trucks, better drive two of them"

What do you think?


Steve Best, Nova Scotia, sbest glinx.com
4 wheel drive van page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
Tire chains, camping gear, tools,82 Bronco and some shooting stuff too.







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Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 01:44:49 -0700
From: Brant Sawzak
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AC/Heater Blower motor only work on the hi setting

It is probably the resistor, not the motor. The resistor is usually in
an easy place to get to. Look for it on the wiring diagram (if you have
one) or ask at a parts store.

John DeVincentis wrote:

> The blower motor on my 1992 F150 only works on
> the hi setting. The motor doesn't turn at all
> on any of the other setting.
> Any suggestions?
> If it is the motor, is it a hard job to remove
> and replace?
>
> Thanks in advance for any help,
> John Dee
>
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Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 01:48:04 -0700
From: Brant Sawzak
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Overspray

Try a light abrasive compound. They are meant to remove oxidation, and followed
by a waxing they work well.

Wallace, Craig wrote:

> Hey All!
>
> As I was getting ready to wax my truck this last weekend, I noticed some
> very
> fine overspray ALL over it. I know it came from a contractor spraying a new
> building here on campus where I work. My employer is denying every case
> saying that it's jet fuel or tree sap!?! Whatever!!!
>
> Anyway, I want to remove it. I've seen on TV where WD-40 claims you can use
> their product for removal of tar, grime, bugs, etc. Has anyone used it for
> overspray removal? If not, what is the best product for this application?
> I
> don't want to mar the finish.
>
> Thanks,
> Craig
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 01:54:03 -0700
From: Brant Sawzak
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What engine?

I'd stick with the 300 also, much more dependable than the 302. I have an 84'
with a rebuilt 300. Even before the rebuild when the engine wanted to quit on
me, I never got stranded, it never died. The 300 is even better with an intake
and header. It can improve fuel economy, and also give you lots of torque, which
is great for trails and traffic alike.

Mark Ponsford wrote:

> >Hi,
> >
> >I'm brand spanking new to ford trucks with an 85 F-150 4x4 shorty. I am
> >wondering what engine would be best for me and I would appreciate any
> >opinions and advice. I will be using the truck as a daily driver with some
> >light hauling, and trail riding and the occasional heavy load. Fuel economy
> >is important but so is a little fun. The truck currently has a tired 300-6
> >(with all the emissions and computer stripped out) with an auto trans, 3.55
> >gears and I'll be running 31"x10.5" tires most likely. I am planning on
> >replacing the computer and sensors/emissions systems with the swap. So I am
> >wondering if you find that the 300-6 has enough juice for daily driving and
> >on the highway? How is the 302?
> >
> >I am also wondering whether to swap in a motor with a carb or whether to
> >switch to EFI/MPI. Is there a noticeable difference in performance and fuel
> >economy between the two?
> >
> >Any advice is appreciated, thanks.
> >
> >Lars
>
> I'd go with the carbed 300-I6. Has more off-idle torque than 302 and is
> easier to troubleshoot'n'fix. These new computer controlled EFI engines
> have more parts to them, consequently, more stuff to break and when it does
> break, a better chance of leaving you stranded and costing you a lot more
> to fix.
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Mark Ponsford 721-7397 or mponsfor uvic.ca
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 01:56:31 -0700
From: Brant Sawzak
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - solenoid smokin'

I've had to replace my solenoid twice within the last two years. I think I
keep buying batterys with more amps than I need. Guess I just like to have
the juice on hand.

Casey Vandor wrote:

> I thought I had left my headlights on at lunch today. Came out, truck
> wouldn't turn over, but it would click. I flagged a guy down, had him
> give me a jump, starts right up, but the starter is still ingaged. I
> shut off the ignition, but the dammed thing is still spinning. Words
> starting flying and I went up to yank the battery wire off and cut the
> juice. As I got to the battery, the solenoid was smokin at the negative
> side. Yanked the batt cable, the starter stopped and the fire went out.
> What is going on?!? Did the solenoid go bad and not release? All
> connections are clean, and everything was hooked up correct.
>
> Any Ideas? Info? (probably going to replace the sol. first)
> Thanks
> Casey
>
> ______________________________________________________
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 01:58:44 -0700
From: Brant Sawzak
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - solenoid smokin'

I'ts also possible that the guy that gave you the jump crossed the cables on
accident when you weren't lookin' :)

Robert Kennedy wrote:

> I had the same problem on mine, swapped solenoid cured it.
>
> Bob
>
> At 05:49 PM 9/18/98 PDT, you wrote:
> >I thought I had left my headlights on at lunch today. Came out, truck
> >wouldn't turn over, but it would click. I flagged a guy down, had him
> >give me a jump, starts right up, but the starter is still ingaged. I
> >shut off the ignition, but the dammed thing is still spinning. Words
> >starting flying and I went up to yank the battery wire off and cut the
> >juice. As I got to the battery, the solenoid was smokin at the negative
> >side. Yanked the batt cable, the starter stopped and the fire went out.
> >What is going on?!? Did the solenoid go bad and not release? All
> >connections are clean, and everything was hooked up correct.
> >
> >Any Ideas? Info? (probably going to replace the sol. first)....


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