80-96-list-digest Tuesday, September 22 1998 Volume 02 : Number 325



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear Main Seal Leaking Vol 2-323
FTE 80-96 - RE: Visor and what about ball joints
FTE 80-96 - AC/Heater Blower motor only work on the hi setting
Re: FTE 80-96 - AC/Heater Blower motor only work on the hi setting
Re: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.
FTE 80-96 - Re: Visor
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:What about ball joints
Re: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.
Re: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.
Re: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.
FTE 80-96 - dead truck (was solenoid)
Re: FTE 80-96 - F-350 solid axle
Re: FTE 80-96 - dead truck (was solenoid){LONG}
Re: FTE 80-96 - Lightning gauge cluster
FTE 80-96 - Overspray
Re: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.
Re: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.
Re: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.
Re: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.

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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 07:30:52 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear Main Seal Leaking Vol 2-323

JohnFandR aol.com wrote:

> This being my first day and first post, I'm not sure I'm answering in the
> correct manner or not but I'm convinced that if I'm not somebody will
> straighten me out.

John,
Welcome to the list.


> same for your van or not but the mechanic that did mine said that the
> transmission had to be removed. If it's the oil pan then the engine had to
> come out. His "book" said 6 hours for one job and 8 hours for the other but I
> can't remember which way it went.

John, You gotta remember, I think this is for someone who has all the
right tools for the job. Doesn't have to MAKE DO with what they
have. Also someone that works on cars in general for a living. I'm
sure now I could do it in two evenings after work. But I also have
had a little practice. :-( I think for the home shadetree mechanic
you should allow a few week nights or a full weekend. The only
problem with the weekend is that parts Stores usually close by noon
on Saturdays and ofcourse then you have to wait until Monday
anyways if you need someth'n. Anyways I got a little off track here.
I was just saying that a little more time is probably best to put
into the schedule. That way if you finish early then you have a
bonus.


- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 08:30:15 -0400
From: "Golly, Scott M"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Visor and what about ball joints

To the person asking about the visor!!

I have a 90 ford with a visor and really like it. The look is great, the
additional lighting (I have the Moonvisor) is neat at night, and it shades
the dash a little in the right conditions. There are negatives. My truck is
lifted and it is slightly difficult to get to the front middle with a truck
box in the bed. The water also pools in the top of the visor in the middle.
All in all, I would highly recommend buying one though they really aren't
serving a specific purpose. They look great and the lighting is neat.

To the list in general,

Has anyone out there replaced ball joints on a 90 Ford F-150 4x4 with the
Dana 44 IFS. I am doing it this weekend. I am replacing all of the steering
linkages with SuperLift, Superrunner steering and I have Dana Ball Joints.
Do I need a Ball Joint Press? How long does the job take?

Scott Golly
Researcher
Battelle

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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 09:02:00 -0400
From: jdev mitre.org (John DeVincentis)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - AC/Heater Blower motor only work on the hi setting

The blower motor on my 1992 F150 only works on
the hi setting. The motor doesn't turn at all
on any of the other setting.
Any suggestions?
If it is the motor, is it a hard job to remove
and replace?

Thanks in advance for any help,
John Dee

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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 10:13:51 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AC/Heater Blower motor only work on the hi setting

John DeVincentis wrote:
>
> The blower motor on my 1992 F150 only works on
> the hi setting. The motor doesn't turn at all
> on any of the other setting.
> Any suggestions?
>
My experience on a non-Ford was that it was the resistor block.
Basically, a bunch of resistors that are swtched into the circuit to
lower the voltage for lower speeds. On high speed, the block is
bypassed.

Not sure where it is on the truck (havn't had to mess with it! ;-), but
it shouldn't be an expensive job.

- --
Andre
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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 07:20:31 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.

You have an AOD tranny, which is different from both the C-6 and the E40D.
The AOD was used on light duty trucks up into the early '90s.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tony
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 9:48 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.


> I have a 1986 5.0 LWB F150 with automatic overdrive. I get the impression
>from the list that there are two automatics, the C6 and the E40D and that
>the C6 is superior. How do I know what type mine is? I read someones
>description of the E4OD as being large and hanging down under the chassis.
>Mine is not like that but I've not seen anyone describe a C6 with overdrive
>either.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Tony.
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>

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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 09:26:34 -0500
From: lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M Radecki)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Visor

Visor guys:

Just remember that any hole drilled in your sheet metal is a potential
starting point for rust. This is especially true of places like the
leading edge of the roof which gets heavy exposure to the elements. As
mentioned in an earlier post, leakage might also be a problem. If you do
choose to add a visor, be sure to use stainless steel hardware and lots
of sealant. If I had several hundred bucks to burn I'd spend it on a
performance item that will help my truck, not a vanity item that might
harm it, but that's just IMHO.

lordjanusz juno.com

"The beatings will continue until morale improves..."

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 11:12:17 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:What about ball joints

Golly, Scott M wrote:

> To the list in general,
>
> Has anyone out there replaced ball joints on a 90 Ford F-150 4x4 with the
> Dana 44 IFS. I am doing it this weekend. I am replacing all of the steering
> linkages with SuperLift, Superrunner steering and I have Dana Ball Joints.
> Do I need a Ball Joint Press? How long does the job take?

Scott,
Yours should be identical to my '83 bronco 4wd, with the D44 IFS.
I did both sides, upper and lower about 7 weeks ago now. I'll try
and keep this short. :-)

Wait a minute. Have you ever taken the hubs apart ? The following
tools will not include the couple small things you need for the hubs.
Basically a Dental tool set(as I have mentioned before) to get the
retaining ring out that is recessed into the hub housing and a locknut
socket, and a retaining ring spreader. I forget the exact name of it,
but you use it to spread the other retaining ring apart to get it off of
the axle shaft. If you get the Haynes it has pictures and everything. :-)

Okay back to our regularly scheduled program. :-)

Ball-Joints
Tools you will need:
1. Rust Eater - Rust penetrating oil.
2. BIG Hammer
3. Rent ball-joint press FREE from autozone($106.00 deposit). Comes
in a nice enough case you may want to keep it. I ALMOST did. :-)
4. Keep a Breaker bar handy.
5. Torque Wrench.

REPLACEMENT
1. Spray GENEROUSLY the night before all balljoints you are going
to replace with the Rust Eater, a couple of times. And the next morning
if you can.
2. Ofcourse jack up the front end and take the hub apart.
3. Then take the brakes off and rotor, revealing the spindle to knuckle.
4. Be kinda carefull taking the 6 spindle nuts off. Once you have
the spindle off pull out the axle. The drivers side comes right out
but the passenger side is a little tough. You have to pull it apart
from the slip-joint to begin with. then the rest will come out after you
loosen three bolts close to the differential. This may be a good time
to either check/replace the u-joints while it is out. That is what I did.
6. Take off the retaining ring on the bottom of the bottom balljoint.
(you'll see what I'm talking about when you get the new parts)
5. Now take off both nuts to the upper/lower balljoints. The bottom is
kinda a pain due to lack of space.
6. The next thing to contend with is the camber adjuster. I used a balljoint
fork to start prying it up. If you tear it up they are $25.00 at Ford(Don't
ask).
After that the sleeve comes out and then with anyluck the complete knuckle
falls to the ground on your toe and you then just have to get the bottom one

off the knuckle which takes a Ford#2 BFH.
7. Now to press them back in is simple, just a little time comsuming. If you
have a workbench to clamp down the knuckle that helps A LOT.
8. The instructions are with the tool to put it together, its just a C-clamp
with a couple of coupling ends.
9. NOTE: WATCH WHICH BALL-JOINT YOU PRESS IN FIRST. IF
YOU DON'T PRESS THE CORRECT ONE IN FIRST THEN THE
PRESS WILL NOT WORK TO PRESS IN THE OTHER there fore
you must take the first one out(I used the FORD#2 tool) then you start
again with the other(DON'T ASK :-) ). I think it was the lower one first.
Don't quote me, just check it yourself. Once you get them on the knuckle
then the nuckle slides " in " and " up " into place.

NOTE: I would suggest doing one side at a time if you are doing upper
and lower.

10. When putting things back together PLEASE check ALL seals(axle,spindle),
and replace as neccessary, cause is easy to do it while your already
there,
and bearings(spindle needle bearing, inner/outer bearings) and repack them

if they are okay.

One last note: The reason I am saying spray the ball-joints and threads
down the night before is that the drivers side dropped right out as I have
meantioned above. But the passenger side bottom ball-joint was all siezed
up and took me 30-45 minutes of constant spraying and FORD#2 tool to get
that side off. Also, the reason I call for the torque wrench is that the
6 spindle nuts easily get twisted off if you try to go to far(don't ask).
Plus you can use the torque wrench anywhere on your truck afterwards.
ONCE AGAIN, watch which ball-joint you press into the
knuckle first, so I don't have to say I told you so. :-)

Any other questions feel free.
- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 12:34:48 EDT
From: Bultwister aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.

i think you might have the c-4. im pretty sure they put that trans in the 1/2
tons. i have the c-6 in my 86' 3/4 ton and love it to death. you might want to
call a dealer though, just to be sure


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 09:41:48 -0700
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.

> I have a 1986 5.0 LWB F150 with automatic overdrive. I get the
>impression
>from the list that there are two automatics, the C6 and the E40D and that
>the C6 is superior. How do I know what type mine is? I read someones
>description of the E4OD as being large and hanging down under the chassis.
>Mine is not like that but I've not seen anyone describe a C6 with overdrive
>either.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Tony.

Check the trans code on the safetly compliance label on the driver side
door jam. 'K' is the C6, if I remember correctly.


- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mark Ponsford 721-7397 or mponsfor uvic.ca


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 09:55:15 -0700
From: Robert Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.

I don't think the 86 came with E40D. Possibly AOD?

Bob

At 09:19 PM 9/21/98 +1000, you wrote:
> I have a 1986 5.0 LWB F150 with automatic overdrive. I get the impression
>from the list that there are two automatics, the C6 and the E40D and that
>the C6 is superior. How do I know what type mine is? I read someones
>description of the E4OD as being large and hanging down under the chassis.
>Mine is not like that but I've not seen anyone describe a C6 with overdrive
>either.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Tony.
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>
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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 10:20:54 PDT
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - dead truck (was solenoid)

I put in the new solenoid. Nothing.. I started tracing circuits for
power and haven't found any open ones yet. I have traced everything
connected to the solenoid except the ignition. Is there a way to test
this outside the cab or do I have to pull it out of the column? I
cannot get anything to recieve power. (headlights, hazards, wipers..
nothing. I have two theories here, please feel free to add to them.

1. The ignition broke in the "start" posistion, causing the
solenoid to stick and burn up. If this were true though, I should still
be able to use headlights and hazards.

2. My computer went t*ts up and I havn't figured out how to
determine if it is broken or not yet. I have no idea what it controls
and what would happen if it died, but as is now, I have no power to
anything. I can jump the starter solenoid, but by connecting everything
as it should be, I get nothing to anything.

Any ideas? I am willing to try almost anything here.
Thanks
Casey Vandor

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 12:27:09 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F-350 solid axle

>From: Randy
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - F-350 solid axle
>
>My buddy

Yo Randy:

Yeah, right. My "buddy" is looking to do the same thing for my ... I mean
"his"... F250, too.

>is looking to buy a worn-out F-350 Dana 60 (not
>sure of the year, late 80's) to swap into his '91
>F-250HD 4x4.
>
>Fire one:
>Can any of the brake components be used or
>retrofitted from the Dana 50?

Hmmm.... You got me there. I always considered just getting all the brake
hardware along w/ the axle, but if the Dana 60 is water damaged, I can see
you'd want to know. I'll bet a quick call to a cooperative dealer parts
tech could get you an answer to that one.

If calipers and rotors interchange, you're pretty well set. Otherwise,
there might be more junkyard lookin' to find the parts or at least some
cores you can trade in for new parts store units. Let me know if you can't
find out locally, and I can call someone I know around here.

>Fire two:
>If there is water in the case what would be the
>problems there?
>- -Could you just replace the axle bearings/seals,
>shaft seals, etc.?
>- -Would a new set of gears be in order even if
>they matched his existing ratio?

At a minimum, you'd have to replace all the seals and clean out the water
and any other contaminants. Whether you had to replace any hard innards
(bearings, carrier, gears, etc.) would depend on how long the water was in
there. If it was wet more than a few days, I think you might be looking at
some pretty bad rust damage. Gears would have to be replaced if any of the
tooth surfaces were rusted.

>Fire three:
>- -I told him other than the axle and brakes from the
>donor he'd also need the driveshaft (slightly
>shorter?) and some kind of stabilizer arm (O.E.M.
>for the 350), is this right?

What I'd recommend is getting the entire front suspension and drivetrain,
everything from the springs and shackles on down, including steering
linkage, along with the front driveshaft.

The stabilizer arm you're referring to is called a "track bar" and it
attaches to the right (passenger) side axle spring plate and to a bracket
that is pretty similar to a TTB pivot mounting bracket under the frame
crossmember. (They might even be the same, but I wouldn't count on it.)
You'll need to make sure to get that spring plate w/ the track bar
attachment and the track bar bracket under the crossmember. The springs
are different for the live axle, so you'll actually need those, too, unless
you're going to use an aftermarket spring setup (e.g., lift kit). The
steering linkage is different for the live axle from the pittman arm on
down, so you'll also need the drag link and tie rod for the live axle.

>Fire four:
>Is there any other pertinent info you guys might have?

Tell your "buddy" good luck w/ "his" truck.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 12:26:06 -0700
From: Robert Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - dead truck (was solenoid){LONG}

Casey,
I'm not sure what year your truck is, on my 86, the solenoid has two large
posts, on either side and one small post on the face.

On the two large posts, one side should run to the battery, the other side
should have a lead to the starter and a few more that feed the rest of the
system. If the leads are intact, you may want to make sure your ground is
connected. (take a volt meter and touch the negative post on the battery
with one lead and touch the other one to the alternator bracket.
In ohms mode you should see a reading close to zero, if not you have no
ground to complete the circuit. If you get no reading, you want to make
sure that you find a good metal source on the engine to double check.

If you get a good reading you have confirmed a good ground for your
electrical system.

With that out of the way, it's time to look at the positive side...

E-mail me directly if you wish...

Bob




At 10:20 AM 9/22/98 PDT, you wrote:

>I put in the new solenoid. Nothing..
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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 14:11:51 -0500
From: "Parker Brooks"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Lightning gauge cluster

hey bryan,

if you get any responses on your message, could you please forward them to
me as well? i'm interested in the same idea.
parker
whoz primary.net

- -----Original Message-----
From: BKMOONLITE aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Saturday, September 12, 1998 1:23 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Lightning gauge cluster


>I have a question....
>
> I have a '95 F150 4X4 with a 5.0. I really would like to put a '95
>Lightning instrument gage cluster in place of the stock cluster now. I've
>took the dash apart to see how it is set up in the back and there is just 2
>wiring harness which plug in. My truck doesn't have the tach. I was
>wondering if this will just be a plug in type thing or will I have to
rewire.
>I'm not sure if the different engine types would make a difference either.
>Ford dealers around here don't have a clue and I tried to contact the 1-800
#
>on the back of the dash, but that is just for service technicians. Any
input
>will be appreciated. Thanks,
>Bryan
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>

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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 15:57:00 -0500
From: "Wallace, Craig"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Overspray

Hey All!

As I was getting ready to wax my truck this last weekend, I noticed some
very
fine overspray ALL over it. I know it came from a contractor spraying a new
building here on campus where I work. My employer is denying every case
saying that it's jet fuel or tree sap!?! Whatever!!!

Anyway, I want to remove it. I've seen on TV where WD-40 claims you can use
their product for removal of tar, grime, bugs, etc. Has anyone used it for
overspray removal? If not, what is the best product for this application?
I
don't want to mar the finish.

Thanks,
Craig
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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 17:45:33 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.

Tony wrote:
>
> I have a 1986 5.0 LWB F150 with automatic overdrive. I get the impression
> from the list that there are two automatics, the C6 and the E40D and that
> the C6 is superior. How do I know what type mine is? I read someones
> description of the E4OD as being large and hanging down under the chassis.
> Mine is not like that but I've not seen anyone describe a C6 with overdrive
> either.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Tony.
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

You have an AODE more the likely. Take good care of it!!!!
Chris
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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 15:07:38 -0700
From: Rob Bryan
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.

Nope. He has an AOD (with hydraulic controls). The AOD-E is elecronic and
wasn't introduced until around 1994, but it is based on the same internals.
Interestingly enough, the AOD has a reputation for being pretty reliable
while the -E version has the opposite, even though all the "guts" are the
same. I think that Ford's patented "Town Car" shift programming can be
blamed for that. Easily fixed by having a new chip burned. That
transmission has since been upgraded internally, and the wide-ratio version
used on trucks is called the 4R70W. FWIW, thw AOD was used on almost all of
Fords V8 passenger cars in the 1980's and early '90's. Some have been
beefed up by the aftermarket and survive easily in modified Mustangs with
well over 500hp.

I had this transmission in a '87 F-150 with the EFI 5.0, and it worked
pretty good. The only problem I had with it was that the modulator went out
and it wouldn't shift out of 1st gear. But that was an easy part to
replace, as it installs into the side of the transmission, instead of
through the pan. And sometimes, at speeds of around 40 mph, if you give it
more gas right when it shifts to 4th gear it will drop back into 3rd with a
"thud". Really strange, but I was able to get 3 other AOD's to do this in
the same matter, so it must have been normal, as all the transmissions were
in good shape.

Likewise, the E4OD is an electronic version of the C6, with an overdrive
planet added. So it is pretty hard for a C6 to be "superior" when
internally, they are almost identical. In fact, the E4OD wide-ratio gearset
is a popular upgrade for the C6. To solve the reliability problems that
mushy "Town Car" shifting brought to this electronic transmission, Ford
spent millions developing a racing version of the E4OD and brought the
improvements to the production version. The improvements were phased in
starting around 1993-1994, so the later ones are pretty bulletproof. But
they kept the mushy shifting. They could have saved the dough and just
firmed up the shifting to keep it from slipping and burning up the clutches.

For '99, that transmission has been improved even more and has been renamed
the 4R100. The version on V10 and Diesel models even have a PTO provision.
It is probably the strongest light-duty automatic now being made. And they
are supposedly developing a 5-speed version of it (like the 4.0L Explorers
use) by engaging the overdrive gear along with 1st gear.

Later,
Rob Bryan

At 5:45 PM +0000 09/22/98, Garr&Pam wrote:
>Tony wrote:
>>
>> I have a 1986 5.0 LWB F150 with automatic overdrive. I get the
>>impression
>> from the list that there are two automatics, the C6 and the E40D and that
>> the C6 is superior. How do I know what type mine is? I read someones
>> description of the E4OD as being large and hanging down under the chassis.
>> Mine is not like that but I've not seen anyone describe a C6 with overdrive
>> either.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Tony.
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>You have an AODE more the likely. Take good care of it!!!!
>Chris
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 19:10:09 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.

Rob Bryan wrote:
>
Nope. He has an AOD (with hydraulic controls). The AOD-E is elecronic
and wasn't introduced until around 1994, but it is based on the same
internals. Interestingly enough, the AOD has a reputation for being
pretty reliable while the -E version has the opposite, even though all
the "guts" are the same. I think that Ford's patented "Town Car" shift
programming can be blamed for that. Easily fixed by having a new chip
burned. That transmission has since been upgraded internally, and the
wide-ratio version used on trucks is called the 4R70W. FWIW, thw AOD was
used on almost all of Fords V8 passenger cars in the 1980's and early
'90's. Some have been beefed up by the aftermarket and survive easily in
modified Mustangs with well over 500hp.

Yeah they stand up to 500 hp but lets see one stand up to 500 ft lbs of
torque! Thats what really kills a tranny. If I had an AOD in my
Lightning it would more than likely destroy an AOD.

I had this transmission in a '87 F-150 with the EFI 5.0, and it worked
pretty good. The only problem I had with it was that the modulator went
out and it wouldn't shift out of 1st gear. But that was an easy part to
replace, as it installs into the side of the transmission, instead of
through the pan. And sometimes, at speeds of around 40 mph, if you give
it more gas right when it shifts to 4th gear it will drop back into 3rd
with a "thud". Really strange, but I was able to get 3 other AOD's to do
this in the same matter, so it must have been normal, as all the
transmissions were in good shape.


Likewise, the E4OD is an electronic version of the C6, with an overdrive
planet added. So it is pretty hard for a C6 to be "superior" when
internally, they are almost identical. In fact, the E4OD wide-ratio
gearset is a popular upgrade for the C6. To solve the reliability
problems that mushy "Town Car" shifting brought to this electronic
transmission, Ford spent millions developing a racing version of the
E4OD and brought the improvements to the production version. The
improvements were phased in starting around 1993-1994, so the later ones
are pretty bulletproof. But they kept the mushy shifting. They could
have saved the dough and just firmed up the shifting to keep it from
slipping and burning up the clutches.

I hate those Ford shifting engineers, my little brothers mountain bike
shifts harder than Fords autos!

For '99, that transmission has been improved even more and has been
renamed the 4R100. The version on V10 and Diesel models even have a PTO
provision. It is probably the strongest light-duty automatic now being
made. And they are supposedly developing a 5-speed version of it (like
the 4.0L Explorers use) by engaging the overdrive gear along with 1st
gear.

Does this mean I could bolt this new tranny up in my Lightning? Just
curious no real intent of ever doing this. The E4OD is pretty reliable
behind a stock 351 Lightning but you start adding on power
adders(supercharger) you had better get it upgraded. Level 10 does great
work with E4OD. With tiadys aftermarket you can get almost any tranny to
last...just how mucj are you willing to spend though. I have no real
experience with the AODE or AOD I was just speaking from what I have
heard about them. I dont think either one was ever put behind a 351 and
I know not a 460!!!
Thanks for the info.

Chris
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 19:27:58 -0400
From: "Jeff Fairbairn"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What auto have I got.

I also have the same questions but mine is in a 1996 F-150 4x4. The shift
lever has the little button on the end. The oil pan has metric stamped into....


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