80-96-list-digest Wednesday, September 9 1998 Volume 02 : Number 311



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Favorite Ford Pickup Body Styles
Re: FTE 80-96 - Windshield Wiper Switch
FTE 80-96 - 4x4 Hub Question.
FTE 80-96 - RE: - A-Freeze on PSD ??
FTE 80-96 - vacuume holes diagram
Re: FTE 80-96 - 4x4 Hub Question.
Re: FTE 80-96 - 4x4 Hub Question.
FTE 80-96 - Re:A-freeze on PSD
Re: FTE 80-96 - Favorite Ford Pickup Body Styles
Re: FTE 80-96 - 4x4 Hub Question.
Re: FTE 80-96 - 83 F-100 advice
FTE 80-96 - Re: Heater Core replacement
FTE 80-96 - Vacume lines and air pumps
FTE 80-96 - 88 150 Rocker Panel
FTE 80-96 - 1980 F-150 Vacuum Hose Diagram
FTE 80-96 - radius arm bushings/I-beam pivot bushings
FTE 80-96 - Re: Heater core replacement
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Classified ads section
RE: FTE 80-96 - 88 150 Rocker Panel

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Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 06:13:27 -0600
From: bbabiuk escape.ca
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Favorite Ford Pickup Body Styles

From: "LeRoy Wolff"
To:
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Favorite Ford Pickup Body Styles
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1998 11:46:50 -0500
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com


Dear FTE's:

I think the best looking Ford Pickups were the 39' or 40' ? with the
tear drop headlights built
into the fenders. Also the 79' Ford . The 97' is very stylish too.

What do the rest of you think ?

My personal opinion is that the '97's and newer are really ugly!
They tried too hard to come up with a bold look like Dodge, yet stay
conservative. I remember the first thing I thought of when I saw
the new style F150 X-Cab in white...it looks like the space shuttle,
except really cheap looking. I love the way my '95 looks.


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- ----------------------------------------------------
Brian J. Babiuk
bbabiuk escape.ca
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.escape.ca/~bbabiuk/
Winnipeg, MB
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Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 08:46:45 -0400
From: Mike McWhirter
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Windshield Wiper Switch

Oh, this is easy. I bought the stuff from the Ford dealer and he helped
me locate the exact relay and switch. I just removed the old switch,
replaced the wiring onto the new switch and remounted it. Works great.
Did not have to anyhting to the wiper motor at all.

Mikey

>Gary,
>I looked into this very thing sometime last year for my '87 F-250
>although I never followed up on it. But if I remember right there's a
>relay control or some other type of a control box that the switch is
>wired into on a factory truck (I think Chilton's had a listing for the
>that relay or something). I thought about just getting the switch and
>that box from a bone yard donor but never seem to find the time to go
>and look. I often wondered if the control box was exactly the same on
>trucks originally equipped w/delay and w/o and it is just the switch
>you pay for on the options list. I was going to get the control box
>(relay box?) from the donor truck just to be on the safe side. I
>didn't want to buy an aftermarket unit, I like accessories in my truck
>to look as factory as possible and since Ford did make a delay switch,
>take advantage of it.
>
>Later,
>Randy
>
>callah S1.hninc.com wrote:
>>
>-----snip-----
>
> Is the "intermittent" option a function of the
>> switch or the wiper motor? In other words can I upgrade my wipers to
>> intermittent just by replacing the switch or is it a much larger problem?
>>
>> Gary Callahan
>> '81 F-150 Custom 4x4
>> (300cid I-6)
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Techcare Incorporated
POBox 1275
503 Lancaster Avenue
Frazer PA 19355-1275


macmikey earthlink.net
Text Pager: 800-522-6606, give operator my name and message up to 55 chars

888-269-7942
610 407-0544
FAX 993-8675

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 09:51:54 -0400
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 4x4 Hub Question.

Hey all,

I realize that a long thread about 4x4 hubs recently ended, and the last
thing I want to do is start another one, so I'll do what I can to make this
as specific as possible. Knowing me, it'll probably also be pretty wordy as
well. ;)
I've opted for the Warn Premiums to replace the automatic hubs on my '95
F-150. I've already had them replaced once when they were under warrantee,
and 5 months later they're starting to go again. That Ford factory
replacement is the source of my question.
Armed with the parts, installation instructions, a Haynes, a Chiltons,
and all my tools, I was ready to kick some hub. Things got strange when I
noticed that there were only three screws holding my cap on instead of the 5
that all the manuals said should be there. It's not like some were missing
either -- there were only holes for three of them. Forging ahead, I took
off the cover and found something that didn't match anything that any of the
manuals talked about. Instead of seeing all the guts inside there, I saw
what can best be described as another cover. It was just a big, solid,
metal cover that the chrome one screws into. And this is where I'm stuck.
I don't see any screws, bolts, clips, or anything other than it's own
will-power holding it in place. I guess it could be pressure-fitted, but
that just doesn't seem right since the outer cover screws into it. I figure
it would have to be held in place by some other method.
Anybody have any ideas? I'd hate to have to bring it somewhere, but at
the same time, I'm a little stuck.
Thanks in advance!

- -Mike


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 08:09:18 -0600
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: - A-Freeze on PSD ??

Peter,
Check out www.abol.com/users/jlester/
for information and procedure on replacing anti-freeze in your Powerstroke.
You will need much more FW-15 additive than 8 oz. The 8 oz you added was to
keep the additive up to its necessary level. I don't have the exact amount
at hand but I think its about 2 quarts when you change coolant. The amount
should be in your owners manual. The additive is not an anti-corrode
additive but a protectant against cavitation. Cavitation is serious
business in Diesels and you don't want your engine to experience it.

Larry

>Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 18:53:26 GMT
>From: peter.arnold.01 snet.net (Peter
T. Arnold)
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - A-Freeze on PSD ??

>At 60k, I have decided to change my A freeze. I have added to supplement
as required at 30k.
>Questions;
>1) Any Special type required?
>2) Do you ADD 8 oz. of the afore mentioned anti-corode to fresh
A-Freeze?

>Thank in advance,

>Peter T. Arnold
>'95 F-250 PowerStroke
>'54 Metropolitan

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Date: Tue, 08 Sep 98 08:55:26 -0500
From: jones.chris mail.mccg.org
Subject: FTE 80-96 - vacuume holes diagram

Does anyone have a ford factory service manual on a 1986 f150 with a
straight six and single carburetor? I need a vacuum holes diagram. If
so would please fax me the diagram. Thanks. fax# 912 633 5000


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Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 09:34:51 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 4x4 Hub Question.

Michael J. Pasznik, Jr. wrote:

> noticed that there were only three screws holding my cap on instead of the 5

That sounds kinda Screwy to me. :-)


> Anybody have any ideas? I'd hate to have to bring it somewhere, but at
> the same time, I'm a little stuck.
> Thanks in advance!

Mike, Heres a thought. Look for a retaining ring recessed into the hub
housing. This is where the dental tool kit(as I call it) comes in
mighty handy as I have mentioned before to get that out. I have
never seen a drawing of the assembly of an auto hub. Just
guessing here. Once again a retaining ring that is recessed
into the hub housing can be very hard to see. I fought with
my Dad for 20 minutes on the telephone telling him there ain't
no retainer ring, the first time I went into my manual hubs, but
ofcourse he was right. So look for that possibility. Man, you
think your wordy. :-)


- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 07:26:00 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 4x4 Hub Question.

There are two different types of Ford automatic hubs the 'three screw' and
the 'five screw', when I replaced the Auto hubs in my '90 Bronco the
salesperson asked which type I had. Apparently if you have the 'three
screw' there is a special adapter kit you need. Good luck.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael J. Pasznik, Jr.
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, September 08, 1998 1:58 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 4x4 Hub Question.


>Hey all,
>
> I realize that a long thread about 4x4 hubs recently ended, and the
last
>thing I want to do is start another one, so I'll do what I can to make this
>as specific as possible. Knowing me, it'll probably also be pretty wordy
as
>well. ;)
> I've opted for the Warn Premiums to replace the automatic hubs on my
'95
>F-150. I've already had them replaced once when they were under warrantee,
>and 5 months later they're starting to go again. That Ford factory
>replacement is the source of my question.
> Armed with the parts, installation instructions, a Haynes, a Chiltons,
>and all my tools, I was ready to kick some hub. Things got strange when I
>noticed that there were only three screws holding my cap on instead of the
5
>that all the manuals said should be there. It's not like some were missing
>either -- there were only holes for three of them. Forging ahead, I took
>off the cover and found something that didn't match anything that any of
the
>manuals talked about. Instead of seeing all the guts inside there, I saw
>what can best be described as another cover. It was just a big, solid,
>metal cover that the chrome one screws into. And this is where I'm stuck.
> I don't see any screws, bolts, clips, or anything other than it's own
>will-power holding it in place. I guess it could be pressure-fitted, but
>that just doesn't seem right since the outer cover screws into it. I
figure
>it would have to be held in place by some other method.
> Anybody have any ideas? I'd hate to have to bring it somewhere, but at
>the same time, I'm a little stuck.
> Thanks in advance!
>
>-Mike
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 10:34:39 -0400
From: John Giles
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:A-freeze on PSD

Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 18:53:26 GMT
From: peter.arnold.01 snet.net (Peter T. Arnold)
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - A-Freeze on PSD ??

>At 60k, I have decided to change my A freeze. I have added to >supplement as required at 30k.
>Questions;
>1) Any Special type required?
>2) Do you ADD 8 oz. of the afore mentioned anti-corode to fresh >A-Freeze?

>Thank in advance,

>Peter T. Arnold
>'95 F-250 PowerStroke
>'54 Metropolitan


Peter,

The answers are as follows:

1) The PS Supplement to the owners manual calls for a Premium Permanent
Type antifreeze such as Ford's E2FZ 19549-AA. This stuff was expensive
($15/gal), so I got mine from the local Navistar Dealer. It was what
they spec for use in this motor (T444E) and was about $7/gallon. Don't
get a generic brand, get something specifically for diesel trucks.
There are also some extended life coolants, but since they are not
spec'ed for our trucks, I wouldn't use them.

2) Accoding to the Power Stroke suplement in the owner's manual, you
want to add 4 pints of the additive when you drain and flush the cooling
system. This is the initial charge for the new coolant. You then add
8-10 oz every 15K miles. The coolant is supposed to be changed after
the first 48mo/50K miles and then every 36 mo/30K miles thereafter.
This additive can also be purchased at the Navistar dealer. It is known
as DCA-4 or DCA-6 (newer version). The Ford equivalents are FW-15 and
FW-16. From the Navistar dealer, they are about 1/2 of the Ford price.

For more information on PS diesels, check out the following site:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.abol.com/users/jlester/index.htm


John Giles
Odessa, FL
96 CC 4X4 Dually PS
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 11:17:42 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Favorite Ford Pickup Body Styles

I think the best looking Ford Pickups were the 39' or 40' ? with the
tear drop headlights built
into the fenders. Also the 79' Ford . The 97' is very stylish too.
What do the rest of you think ?

My personal opinion is that the '97's and newer are really ugly!
They tried too hard to come up with a bold look like Dodge, yet stay
conservative. I remember the first thing I thought of when I saw
the new style F150 X-Cab in white...it looks like the space shuttle,
except really cheap looking. I love the way my '95 looks.

I think the 56 F100 is the best looking Ford truck ever, next to my 94
Lightning, 99 Lightning, and 70-72! Those are my favorites!
Chris
94 Lightning #381
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 11:45:23 -0400
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 4x4 Hub Question.

I have done the same job on my '95 F150 4X4. It seems the auto hubs on the
'95s are different ( sort of ) from every other year. There are only three
retaining bolts for these hubs, but no worry; the WARN hubs come with
everything you need to install the hubs and you end up with the "old style"
retaining bolts. The only problem is that the manual hubs won't fit in.
You have to replace the "new style" spindle nuts with "old style" nuts and
locks. I seem to recall they are listed in the book as fitting " '58 to
current ". Most Ford dealers and 4X4 shops have the kits you need. These
aren't too expensive, and you will be able to use the MUCH more common
spindle nut wrench after the conversion.

- ----------
> From: Michael J. Pasznik, Jr.
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - 4x4 Hub Question.
> Date: Tuesday, September 08, 1998 9:51 AM
>
> Hey all,
>
> I realize that a long thread about 4x4 hubs recently ended, and the
last
> thing I want to do is start another one, so I'll do what I can to make
this
> as specific as possible. Knowing me, it'll probably also be pretty wordy
as
> well. ;)
> I've opted for the Warn Premiums to replace the automatic hubs on my
'95
> F-150. I've already had them replaced once when they were under
warrantee,
> and 5 months later they're starting to go again. That Ford factory
> replacement is the source of my question.
> Armed with the parts, installation instructions, a Haynes, a
Chiltons,
> and all my tools, I was ready to kick some hub. Things got strange when
I
> noticed that there were only three screws holding my cap on instead of
the 5
> that all the manuals said should be there. It's not like some were
missing
> either -- there were only holes for three of them. Forging ahead, I took
> off the cover and found something that didn't match anything that any of
the
> manuals talked about. Instead of seeing all the guts inside there, I saw
> what can best be described as another cover. It was just a big, solid,
> metal cover that the chrome one screws into. And this is where I'm
stuck.
> I don't see any screws, bolts, clips, or anything other than it's own
> will-power holding it in place. I guess it could be pressure-fitted, but
> that just doesn't seem right since the outer cover screws into it. I
figure
> it would have to be held in place by some other method.
> Anybody have any ideas? I'd hate to have to bring it somewhere, but
at
> the same time, I'm a little stuck.
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Mike
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 12:02:23 -0400
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 83 F-100 advice

- ----------
> From: Mike and Renee Skeans
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - 83 F-100 advice
> Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 11:14 PM
>
> I have a 1983 F-100 Flareside with a 302/AOD. It is almost broke in with
> only 177k miles. It is not using or loosing any oil and runs good. I have
a
> couple of questions. This is my daily driver and I would like to freshen
up
> the performance a little. Nothing to serious, just to improve
driveability,
> performance and maybe mileage. Just make it more efficient, if you know
what
> I mean, breathe better and run better.
>
> 1. I need a new air cleaner housing, the original is cracking up. Any
> suggestions? K & N?

The K & N works well, but you will notice quite an intake howl.

> 2. New exhaust system from the "Y" back. I think I would like to keep the
> single pipe and the cat. is already gone. How about a nice sounding
muffler,
> deep but not too loud. What are you guys using...Flowmaster?

Flowmasters sound very hollow and LOUD. If you don't mind the noise, go
for it.
I install MAC shorty headers, and Dynomax cat. back systems in my trucks.
The gains are noticeable, and it's not too noisy.

> 3. Anybody have any experience with the performance/improvements of using
> the Jacobs electronics ignition (ultimate team?)or any similar system.
Did
> it work as advertised for you? I definitely need new wires, cap, rotor
and
> coil...etc.

Haven't tried them

> 4. My little Motorcraft 2bbl (Autolite 2150?) is needing a tune up. I
like
> it, would you rebuild it or buy a new one?
> or replace it with something else entirely.

I have replaced the 2bbl card with the Holley Projection 500 CFM fuel
injection kit. It looks a lot like the GM throttle body injection system (
even uses GM sensors ). After a little tweaking it runs well. It still has
a problem icing up on cool damp days like a carb though.

> I would greatly appreciate your comments, experience or suggestion for
this
> application. That is all for now fellas, isn't it enough. Thank you for
your
> patience.
>
> This is THE best FORD truck resource on the web!
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 12:38:29 -0500
From: David Anderson
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Heater Core replacement

I did that job last winter on my '90 F150. Even with freezing cold hands,
it wasn't to bad. First, I was surprised at the low $17 price of a core at
Autozone. Is thinner and has less fins than original but heats OK. (In
Alaska you probably want the biggest you can get). Start under the hood by
pulling the heater hose connections off the heater core . The worst part is
getting the sealing putty off (in the cold) around the pipes. Also just cut
the wire type band clamps and have two new band clamps available. (Also a
good time to consider new heater hoses if they're old.) Then go inside and
remove the glove box door (by flexing the hinges). Remove several screws
around the perimeter of the air chamber and pull the core out. Wipe out any
coolant in the air chamber. Use a razor knife and cut the sealing foam off
the top of the old core and glue it onto the new core. Insert the new core
and reassemble. I didn't put that sealing putty back around the heater
hoses but it is probably a good idea to keep any under-hood smells and gases
out of the cab. Good luck.
David Anderson

>I have an 88 F350 crew cab that just suffered a blown heater core. Any
hints, tips, or useful banter I should abide by when changing this heater
core? Looks like a pain in the tailgate. I live in Alaska so don't sit on
your hands, send in your tips, winter is coming...




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Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 14:34:46 -0700
From: Michael Wray
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Vacume lines and air pumps

I had to take everything apart.... Now of course I cannot remember the
simple things like where all the vacume lines go and where each air pump
goes.

I know...... I know...... I should have marked everything... but there
is a long story behind this. :(

Michael
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 18:11:15 EDT
From: Pjx488 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 88 150 Rocker Panel

I need a rocker panel for a 1988 F-150. Does anyone know of sources? Thanks.
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Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 15:54:22 -0700
From: Dwayne Stewart
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1980 F-150 Vacuum Hose Diagram

Does anyone have a ford factory service manual on a 1980 F150 with a
straight six(300CID) and single barrel carburetor? I need a vacuum hose
diagram. If
so would please fax me the diagram. Thanks. fax# 425-640-1226

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 19:22:30 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: FTE 80-96 - radius arm bushings/I-beam pivot bushings

I am getting ready to replace my Ibeam pivot bushing and radius arm
bushings on my 94 Lightning with polyurethane bushings from energy
suspensions. First off Ford has a TSB on the from rrrivots should I take
this opportunity to drill them out and replce them with bolts... this is
what Ford would do if I have them fix it. Second is there any
secrets/problems involved with changing the bushings?
Thanks
Chris
94 Lightning #381
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 17:57:39 -0700
From: Ken Justice
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Heater core replacement

Pat,

The replacement of your heater core should be a piece of cake if it's
anything like my old '86. I had to replace it twice and it took me about
an hour each time. Simply unscrew the retainers holding the outer heater
assembly (inside the cab) and it's pretty straight forward from there
on.

P.S. If I lived in Kodiak, Alaska (instead of SUNNY Arizona), I think
I'd install 2 heaters just in case!

Regards.
Ken Justice Discover the Working Mat!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.workingmat.com
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 23:22:22 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Classified ads section

Due to the popular opinion (which I have to admit I agree with) that
the new classifieds pages stink, I've brought back the old classifieds.
I'm in the process of writing my own classifieds manager which I hope
will address the short-comings of both the old and new systems.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 22:52:18 -0500
From: Ron Madurski
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 88 150 Rocker Panel

Here in Tulsa I'd go to Eagle Automotive. You might see if you have one
in town, I think they are a big company with lots of locations. If not
let me know where you are and I'll tell you where the closest one is to....

---

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