80-96-list-digest Tuesday, August 18 1998 Volume 02 : Number 286



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - 1989 F150 4.9L EGR question
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1989 F150 4.9L EGR question
RE: FTE 80-96 - 1989 F150 4.9L EGR question
Re: FTE 80-96 - 4x indicator light
RE: FTE 80-96 - FLAPPING VISORS
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Depressurizing Fuel Lines
FTE 80-96 - RE: Lariat
FTE 80-96 - PING PING PING!!!
FTE 80-96 - ford rv van
FTE 80-96 - I put an Overdrive in my truck...
FTE 80-96 - I put an Overdrive in my truck...
RE: FTE 80-96 - Brake Light
Re: FTE 80-96 - ford rv van
FTE 80-96 - vacuum hose connections
Re: FTE 80-96 - vacuum hose connections
FTE 80-96 - Ford Vans
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Truck Driving Schools
Re: FTE 80-96 - PING PING PING!!!
Re: FTE 80-96 - ford rv van
Re: FTE 80-96 - Ford Vans

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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 07:37:51 -0500
From: DuaneKaufman LunarCorp.com (Duane Kaufman)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1989 F150 4.9L EGR question

Hello!

I recently purchased a 1989 F150 4x4 with a 4.9L engine and manual 5-speed
transmission.

Unfortunately, the previous owner fancied himself a mechanic and decided to
futz with the emissions control system, removing entirely the EGR valve (he
did plug the holes though).

The CHECK ENGINE light now is on, and I would like to fool the Engine
Control Computer into thinking an EGR valve is present. From what I can
gather, the EGR Valve position sensor resembles a variable-resistor, with a
static resistance between two of the leads, and a wiper that varies between
the extremes. I would like to place an appropriately-valued resistance
between two of the leads, and, if need be, connect the 'wiper' lead too.

Has anyone done this? What is the value for the static resistance? Will this
be enough to keep the computer happy, or does the 'wiper' lead need to be
connected/adjusted?

Any help would be appreciated!

Duane

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 08:48:59 -0400
From: "C. E. White"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1989 F150 4.9L EGR question

Why not just reinstall the EGR system? The last time I removed an EGR set-up I
was sorry. To keep it from pinging, I had to retard the timing which made
everything worse. I also once burned a piston in an old Fiesta because I drove
it at high speed for a long time with the EGR plugged.

Ed

Duane Kaufman wrote:

> Hello!
>
> I recently purchased a 1989 F150 4x4 with a 4.9L engine and manual 5-speed
> transmission.
>
> Unfortunately, the previous owner fancied himself a mechanic and decided to
> futz with the emissions control system, removing entirely the EGR valve (he
> did plug the holes though).
>
> The CHECK ENGINE light now is on, and I would like to fool the Engine
> Control Computer into thinking an EGR valve is present. From what I can
> gather, the EGR Valve position sensor resembles a variable-resistor, with a
> static resistance between two of the leads, and a wiper that varies between
> the extremes. I would like to place an appropriately-valued resistance
> between two of the leads, and, if need be, connect the 'wiper' lead too.
>
> Has anyone done this? What is the value for the static resistance? Will this
> be enough to keep the computer happy, or does the 'wiper' lead need to be
> connected/adjusted?
>
> Any help would be appreciated!
>
> Duane
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 08:17:32 -0500
From: DuaneKaufman LunarCorp.com (Duane Kaufman)
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 1989 F150 4.9L EGR question

Hi!

Ed said:
>
> Why not just reinstall the EGR system? The last time I removed an
> EGR set-up I
> was sorry. To keep it from pinging, I had to retard the timing which made
> everything worse. I also once burned a piston in an old Fiesta
> because I drove
> it at high speed for a long time with the EGR plugged.
>
> Ed

The engine operates fine without it now, so the concerns about it aren't an
issue.

Aside from the cost of putting things back on that are plain missing
(Exhaust tube from exhaust to EGR valve, EGR valve, miles of vacuum hose,
and Lord knows what else) I do not have the time or inclination to replace
something that will serve to lessen power output and fuel economy. I just
want to preserve the diagnostic capability of the EEC system in other areas.

Thanks,

Duane
>
> Duane Kaufman wrote:
>
> > Hello!
> >
> > I recently purchased a 1989 F150 4x4 with a 4.9L engine and
> manual 5-speed
> > transmission.
> >
> > Unfortunately, the previous owner fancied himself a mechanic
> and decided to
> > futz with the emissions control system, removing entirely the
> EGR valve (he
> > did plug the holes though).
> >
> > The CHECK ENGINE light now is on, and I would like to fool the Engine
> > Control Computer into thinking an EGR valve is present. From what I can
> > gather, the EGR Valve position sensor resembles a
> variable-resistor, with a
> > static resistance between two of the leads, and a wiper that
> varies between
> > the extremes. I would like to place an appropriately-valued resistance
> > between two of the leads, and, if need be, connect the 'wiper' lead too.
> >
> > Has anyone done this? What is the value for the static
> resistance? Will this
> > be enough to keep the computer happy, or does the 'wiper' lead
> need to be
> > connected/adjusted?
> >
> > Any help would be appreciated!
> >
> > Duane
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 10:14:33 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 4x indicator light

Casey Vandor wrote:

> Well I have the truck back on the road for couple of weeks, everything
> has been doing fine until I went to use 4WD. 4WD works fine, but the
> light dose not work. I plugged everything after the clutch job, (one
> wire on the tranny, and the speedo cable in the t-case). I really don't
> want to tear the dash off to check the bulb, is it possible to use a
> multitester on the wire or the plug in to check the bulb?


Casey,
I broke my 4wd indicator wire when I was changing my
rear main seal. I just used the heat shrink tubing to put
them back together and that fixed it. In your case if your
wire is okay as far as you can tell, then there is a fuse for it
on the fuse block. Check that first. You could also check the
wire going to the transmission where it hooks up to see if
you have current to the indicator. If you have current running
to it, and the wiring is good, then I see the problem as one of
two things:

1. Instrument panel light bulb
2. Bad indicator on tranny

Was it working before you pulled the tranny/transfer case ?
If it was working before then you may have inadvertently
broke the wire like I did when I was putting the crossmember
back in. I also seem to recall(I think) that you said you dropped the
tranny. Don't think that would of effected the indicator though,
unless it fell on the topside. The dash is not hard to take off. It
has about 12 screws and takes about 10 minutes. I can't recall
what vehicle you have. Was this on an '81 Bronco/F150 ?
- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 10:59:23 -0500
From: Ron Madurski
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - FLAPPING VISORS

Velcro. Glue a strip to the plastic around the windshield and another
to the visor.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rob Sartorius [mailto:sartrc interlimits.net]
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 1998 9:05 PM
To: FORD TRUCKS
Subject: FTE 80-96 - FLAPPING VISORS


ANY BODY KNOW HOW TO REPLACE OR REPAIR THE LOOSE FLAPPING, SQUIRRELLY
SUN
VISORS IN 1985 F-150....MINE WILL NOT STAY UP OR IN ANY POSITION....

ROB
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 11:22:13 -0500
From: "Beaman, James"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Depressurizing Fuel Lines

lordjanusz wrote:

> Here's the "official" method... works for me. There is a fuel cutoff
> switch behind the passenger side kick panel inside the cab.
>
Is the kick panel the one that is mounted vertically against the inside wall
of the truck? In other words, would this be the panel to the right of the
passenger's feet? Thanks for the info.

James Beaman
james.beaman lmco.com
Houston, Texas

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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 09:28:29 -0700
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Lariat

When I ordered my 85 in July of 84(didn't get it till Oct. 84). The
Lariat model was an even more tricked out XLT. Mostly badges, leather
wrapped wheel, etc...
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 12:44:17 -0600
From: "David Sagers"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - PING PING PING!!!

This weekend I put about 800 miles on my =A189 F350 CC, 460 gas, 5 spd =
(ZF). The air temperature was warm at 98 - 100 degrees. The only load =
was 2 passengers and a couple of suitcases. Unless I ran the 91 octane =
gas the engine pinged, on even the slightest hill at 75 mph. The engine =
temp was at normal. The problem persisted with different tanks of fuel =
from a number of different stations.

About six months ago I had a shop treat the engine for excess carbon build =
up in the heads, on the piston tops and in the EFI intake. It never =
really made much difference, but after spending the extra $$ to buy the =
high octane this weekend I=A2m finally to the point where I need to work =
on this problem again. I know that the owners=A2 manual says to run =
medium grade fuel, and I will live that, but the high grade is $.10 to =
$.15 per gallon higher in price, and since this truck only gets 10 mpg it =
makes a difference. At the same time I had the carbon treatment they =
checked the knock sensor and the timing.

The truck doesn=A2t burn oil and uses about a quart each 1000 to 1500, and =
I have 65K miles on it. I checked the motors manual and its says the 460 =
gas engine has 8.5:1 compression. Now my experience says that an 8.5:1 =
engine shouldn=A2t require even med grade fuel unless there is something =
unusual going on. Is there something in the design of the 460 head that =
causes the detonation. Does this indicate that the EFI is running too =
lean ( I live at about 5000 ft. above sea level). I like the truck, but =
the pinging drives me crazy because I know it can destroy an engine.

Anyone have any ideas?

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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 14:09:57 -0500
From: Noel & Inga Hupe
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ford rv van

>Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 14:02:30 -0500
>To: 80-96list ford-trucks.com
>From: Noel & Inga Hupe
>Subject: ford rv van
>
>I just recentely purchased a RV van called Getaway on 1 ton ford econoline
chassis, with a 350...7.5 l , geez it's big mother. I'm wondering if any1 on
this list could help me find info regarding the van, i've tried without any
success.Thanks, Noel
Sorry, i forgot to mention the van is an 1988, with 82,000 k's in mint
condition, it never saw snow yet.

Noel Hupe

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 14:13:12 -0500
From: Ron Madurski
Subject: FTE 80-96 - I put an Overdrive in my truck...

Damn big fingers...

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ron Madurski
Sent: Monday, August 17, 1998 1:51 PM
To: 'trucks'
Subject: I put an Overdrive in my truck...



Hey all, Just thought I'd pass on some info on my latest (finished)
project.

Last year about this time I bought an 85 F-250 with 6.9L diesel. It is
a 4x4 with the Extended cab. I bought it mainly for pulling the car
hauler but also wanted the diesel for the mileage.
The truck had gobs (around 300K) of miles on it and the body was pretty
rough but it had been maintained well with some recent drivetrain work.

Anyways, like I was saying. I really liked the truck but it was hell at
any speeds over 70. The big old 420 was just spinning too fast with the
4 speed that was in there. I looked at several different options (new 5
spd, automatic (yech), OD behind the xfer case,...) but I really liked
the Advance Adapters torque splitter. 27% reduction in RPM and it would
work for all 4 existing gears. It is fairly compact (7-3/8" long) and
bolts right in between the tranny and bellhousing. The only thing I
don't like about that is that I'm having some trouble getting the xfer
case shifter located just right. It ends up under the seat which limits
its travel. It still works OK, just need to work on it some more to get
it perfect. It installed really easily, everything under the truck fit
perfectly.

Now the truck just purrs along at 75-80. It's quieter and smoother and
I don't worry about a rod going through the block anymore.

A couple of notes on the job.

1. Check your oil pans. The flywheel cover (that little sheetmetal
thingy) had vibrated a hole into the oil pan. For a long time I thought
I was looking at a bad rear main seal (It was fine, I replaced it
anyway) because of where the oil leak was located. I was losing about 1
qt/200 miles. It turned out that the oil pan had a hole in it. The
previous owners mechanic had tried sealing it up but it was leaking like
a sieve. I got a new pan (from salvage $75) and put it on. No more
leak (at least from the oil pan). Shaved off the part that was rubbing
on the pan and it should be good for another 300K. I think it must be a
common problem because the pan I got from salvage had the same marks
just not all the way through.

2. Air tools are your friend, it also helps to have some welding
equipment. I ran out of O2 while bending the shifters so that still
needs to be finished :-( and I decided to cut and weld the xfer case
shifter to make it work better.

3. I used a jack and some 4x4 posts to "lift" the floor under my seat
to get the xfer case to clear the sheet metal. Probably could have just
used a hammer, but the way I did it I think I had a little more control
over the amount of "lift".

If you have any questions just let me know and I'll try to answer them.

Ron Madurski
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 13:50:37 -0500
From: Ron Madurski
Subject: FTE 80-96 - I put an Overdrive in my truck...

Hey all, Just thought I'd pass on some info on my latest (finished)
project.

Last year about this time I bought an 85 F-250 with 6.9L diesel. It is
a 4x4 with the Extended cab. I bought it mainly for pulling the car
hauler but also wanted the diesel for the mileage.
The truck had gobs (around 300K) of miles on it and the body was pretty
rough but it had been maintained well with some recent drivetrain work.

Any
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 14:45:09 -0500
From: Ron Madurski
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Brake Light

I would not worry about it too much. It is an indication of low vacuum
pressure (among other things) when it goes on and stays on, especially
when you are using the brakes, then I would start worrying about it.



>The proportioning valve or master cylinder is bad. The light indicates
>an inbalance between the front and rear brake circuits. If the brake
>shop you went to couldn't figure this thing out, RUN AWAY FROM THEM AS
>FAST AS YOU CAN!!!!

This could be the problem also, but it is easy to test. On a wet day
try to lock up the tires and see if the fronts or rears lock up first.
I have mine adjusted to lock up the rears first since skidding wheels
won't turn.




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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 16:05:43 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ford rv van

At 02:09 PM 8/17/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 14:02:30 -0500
>>To: 80-96list ford-trucks.com
>>From: Noel & Inga Hupe
>>Subject: ford rv van
>>
>>I just recentely purchased a RV van called Getaway on 1 ton ford econoline
>chassis, with a 350...7.5 l , geez it's big mother. I'm wondering if any1 on
>this list could help me find info regarding the van, i've tried without any
>success.Thanks, Noel
> Sorry, i forgot to mention the van is an 1988, with 82,000 k's in mint
>condition, it never saw snow yet.
>
> Noel Hupe
>

First, its probably a 351, not a 350 (Chevy engine). What
kind of information are you looking for?

Ken Payne


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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 98 14:52:48 -0500
From: jones.chris mail.mccg.org
Subject: FTE 80-96 - vacuum hose connections

This is a 1986 F-150 pickup with a straight six single barrel
carburetor. I have replaced the motor and need help replacing some
vacuum hoses.

1. Two hoses come off the PVC valve, which is plugged into the
valve cover. The large hose goes into the intake manifold. Where
does
the small hose go?
2. On the intake manifold, there is a connector with several
hoses.
One of those hoses T's about two inches from the carburetor. Where do
these two hoses go?
3. Is the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor located on
the
firewall? If not, where?
4. Looking from the front of the truck, on the left side of the
carburetor, just below the intake, there is a hose connector coming
off
the carburetor. What hose goes to the location?
5. Where is an A/CL VV (Air cleaner dust and valve vacuum
motor)?
6. What and where is the P/D MTR?



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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 19:02:38 -0400
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - vacuum hose connections

I don't have a similar truck to yours, so I can't help much. But,
There should be a hose connection diagram sticker somewhere under the hood.
Your truck won't have a MAP sensor, it's only needed on fuel injected
engines.
As for the other devices you mention, can't help you there either.


Matt

- ----------
> From: jones.chris mail.mccg.org
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - vacuum hose connections
> Date: Monday, August 17, 1998 3:52 PM
>
>
> This is a 1986 F-150 pickup with a straight six single barrel
> carburetor. I have replaced the motor and need help replacing some
> vacuum hoses.
>
> 1. Two hoses come off the PVC valve, which is plugged into
the
> valve cover. The large hose goes into the intake manifold. Where
> does
> the small hose go?
> 2. On the intake manifold, there is a connector with several
> hoses.
> One of those hoses T's about two inches from the carburetor. Where
do
> these two hoses go?
> 3. Is the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor located on
> the
> firewall? If not, where?
> 4. Looking from the front of the truck, on the left side of
the
> carburetor, just below the intake, there is a hose connector coming
> off
> the carburetor. What hose goes to the location?
> 5. Where is an A/CL VV (Air cleaner dust and valve vacuum
> motor)?
> 6. What and where is the P/D MTR?
>
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 18:44:32 -0300
From: sbest
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Ford Vans

>From: Brant Sawzak
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Ford Vans
>
>I'm new to the list and I wanted to see if anyone on this list discusses
>
>Ford Vans. I have an '84 E-150 with the 300 I6, 124" wheelbase. I
>recently had it painted, and rebuilt the engine about two years ago.
>I'm looking for a new intake manifold, hopefully something better than
>stock. I would like to fit a fuel-injection system on it, but seeing as
>
>I don't currently have the cash, a new carb will have to do. Any
>suggestions?


Hey Brant,
I am a bit of a van nut, I have a webpage devouted to fixing them up=20
with power on all wheels as Ford should have done, at least as an option!

Brant, A header on the six is probably the quickest and cheapest=20
way to liven it up. I cannot name you a manufacturer but this is a=20
copy of a post I recently sent to the Bronco list:

I have never had a running 300 six, (although I have 3 in=20
parts trucks at the moment) but I did hotrod a 250 Ford years ago.=20
The 250 has an integral manifold so all you could do is add a=20
bigger single barrel carb and you have to bore the hole bigger for=20
that. I did it and it was worth it. The biggest single gain on the=20
six was the header. It was one of the first mods. The header was=20
home built with a machined flange and 6 into duals. This was about=20
1977 so I am kind of foggy on exact measurements but I believe I=20
made it from inch and 3/4 equal length pipes about 36"-40" to the=20
collector according to a formula I read in Smith's "The Science=20
of Sports Car Engines" or some such book. It ran into 2=BD" duals.=20
Made a terrible blat but now it bolted like a V8.=20

After the header, duals, bigger carb, planed head, valve job,=20
older cam, recurved distributor, 3.9 gears, loosened off fanbelt and=20
no air cleaner it would run right around 15 seconds in the quarter.=20
No power after 5500 rpm so that was the shift point (automatic).
Not too many new cars on the road in 1977 could touch 15 seconds.=20

Anyway, the point of my story is that I would look into a header=20
before all other mods on a six.=20

=20

Steve Best, Nova Scotia, sbest glinx.com
4 wheel drive van page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
Tire chains, camping gear, tools,82 Bronco and some shooting stuff too.



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 23:31:39 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Truck Driving Schools

Dear Ford Truck Enthusiasts list members:

We have a new advertiser on our web site. Since the beginning,
our practice with web site advertisers has been to make a brief
announcement for 2 days (this is day 1 of 2). Please show your
appreciation to them for helping to support the web site and the
lists by checking out their site:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.webspawner.com/users/easyhaul/index.html

Easy Haul is a personalized service by Alan DeBoer Sr., who has
extensive experience as both a professional truck driver and a
certified instructor. If you've considered a career driving a
big rig, Alan offers a locating service of recognized and approved
truck driving schools in the United States or Canada. Check it
out.

We would like to you to let Alan know you heard about his service
via the Ford Truck Enthusiasts group.

Now returning you to our regularly scheduled program...

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 21:05:23 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - PING PING PING!!!

I would check your timing first, if the base timing is off it can cause the
engine to ping.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: David Sagers
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, August 17, 1998 7:01 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - PING PING PING!!!


This weekend I put about 800 miles on my Ą89 F350 CC, 460 gas, 5 spd (ZF).
The air temperature was warm at 98 - 100 degrees. The only load was 2
passengers and a couple of suitcases. Unless I ran the 91 octane gas the
engine pinged, on even the slightest hill at 75 mph. The engine temp was at
normal. The problem persisted with different tanks of fuel from a number of
different stations.

About six months ago I had a shop treat the engine for excess carbon build
up in the heads, on the piston tops and in the EFI intake. It never really
made much difference, but after spending the extra $$ to buy the high octane
this weekend Iąm finally to the point where I need to work on this problem
again. I know that the ownersą manual says to run medium grade fuel, and I
will live that, but the high grade is $.10 to $.15 per gallon higher in
price, and since this truck only gets 10 mpg it makes a difference. At the
same time I had the carbon treatment they checked the knock sensor and the
timing.

The truck doesnąt burn oil and uses about a quart each 1000 to 1500, and I
have 65K miles on it. I checked the motors manual and its says the 460 gas
engine has 8.5:1 compression. Now my experience says that an 8.5:1 engine
shouldnąt require even med grade fuel unless there is something unusual
going on. Is there something in the design of the 460 head that causes the
detonation. Does this indicate that the EFI is running too lean ( I live at
about 5000 ft. above sea level). I like the truck, but the pinging drives
me crazy because I know it can destroy an engine.

Anyone have any ideas?

=FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 22:29:27 -0700
From: Brant Sawzak
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ford rv van

If it is a 351, then it isn't a 7.5 liter, it would be a 5.8 liter. A 7.5 liter
is a 460 cid.

Ken Payne wrote:

> At 02:09 PM 8/17/98 -0500, you wrote:
> >>Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 14:02:30 -0500
> >>To: 80-96list ford-trucks.com
> >>From: Noel & Inga Hupe
> >>Subject: ford rv van
> >>
> >>I just recentely purchased a RV van called Getaway on 1 ton ford econoline
> >chassis, with a 350...7.5 l , geez it's big mother. I'm wondering if any1 on
> >this list could help me find info regarding the van, i've tried without any
> >success.Thanks, Noel
> > Sorry, i forgot to mention the van is an 1988, with 82,000 k's in mint
> >condition, it never saw snow yet.
> >
> > Noel Hupe
> >
>
> First, its probably a 351, not a 350 (Chevy engine). What
> kind of information are you looking for?
>
> Ken Payne
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 22:36:46 -0700
From: Brant Sawzak
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Ford Vans

Thanks for the info. Right now the carb is on its last legs, so and intake
and possibly a four barrel will work well, after that I'll look into an
exaust header. More power would be great, and the header and intake will
definately allow it to breathe better. It's only a 124" wheelbase so it is
lighter and would quicken acceleration. I heard a rumor that Clifford makes
an intake, but I havent found a header yet.

sbest wrote:

> >From: Brant Sawzak
> >Subject: FTE 80-96 - Ford Vans
> >
> >I'm new to the list and I wanted to see if anyone on this list discusses
> >
> >Ford Vans. I have an '84 E-150 with the 300 I6, 124" wheelbase. I
> >recently had it painted, and rebuilt the engine about two years ago.
> >I'm looking for a new intake manifold, hopefully something better than
> >stock. I would like to fit a fuel-injection system on it, but seeing as
> >
> >I don't currently have the cash, a new carb will have to do. Any
> >suggestions?
>
> Hey Brant,
> I am a bit of a van nut, I have a webpage devouted to fixing them up
> with power on all wheels as Ford should have done, at least as an option!
>
> Brant, A header on the six is probably the quickest and cheapest
> way to liven it up. I cannot name you a manufacturer but this is a
> copy of a post I recently sent to the Bronco list:
>
> I have never had a running 300 six, (although I have 3 in
> parts trucks at the moment) but I did hotrod a 250 Ford years ago.
> The 250 has an integral manifold so all you could do is add a
> bigger single barrel carb and you have to bore the hole bigger for
> that. I did it and it was worth it. The biggest single gain on the
> six was the header. It was one of the first mods. The header was
> home built with a machined flange and 6 into duals. This was about
> 1977 so I am kind of foggy on exact measurements but I believe I
> made it from inch and 3/4 equal length pipes about 36"-40" to the
> collector according to a formula I read in Smith's "The Science
> of Sports Car Engines" or some such book. It ran into 2œ" duals.....


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