80-96-list-digest Saturday, August 15 1998 Volume 02 : Number 283



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - 300 6 cylinder
Re: FTE 80-96 - Depressurizing Fuel Lines
Re: FTE 80-96 - Tired C6 replacement.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Tired C6 replacement.
FTE 80-96 -Enamel paint?
Re: FTE 80-96 - 300 6 cylinder
FTE 80-96 - I'm Newbie !!; 351 A.I.R; axle seals; brakes; observations
Re: FTE 80-96 - Tired C6 replacement.
FTE 80-96 - Brake Light
Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Light
Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Light

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Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 08:09:05 -0400
From: "C. E. White"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 300 6 cylinder

Well my 1992 300 Six will certainly do more than 80. The spedometer only goes to
85, but it doesn't stop accelerating there. The engine gave me no trouble
pulling a 2000# sailboat (pretty wide and tall compared to a power boat) down
I-95 at over 75mph. Now if the d*** transmission lasts I will be OK (E4OD). The
transmission seems OK now, but earlier this summer I was idling around on my
farm checking on "stuff" and the transmission decided to pump all the fluid out
the front cover. Filled it back up and the problem has not reoccurred...yet.

Ed

DHall8577 aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 98-08-11 06:46:12 EDT, owner-80-96-list-digest ford-
> trucks.com writes:
>
>
> to go!! :)
> >>
>
> Computor won't let you go any faster, it shuts down the fuel system.....
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



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Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 08:37:11 -0400
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Depressurizing Fuel Lines

Chris Robinson wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I'm getting ready to change the fuel filter on my 1994 F150 - 4.9L/six.
> The package says that I must depressurize the system before removing the
> old filter. I've never changed the filter on a vehicle with an electric
> fuel pump. How do I do this? Anyone have any ideas?
>
Not sure how applicable this is to Fords, but on domestic brand C
vehicles there are a couple of options. Option one is to have the engine
idling and pull the fuse for the fuel pump. The engine then falters and
dies and the system is depressurised. If that's not available (eg: no
fuse) then go for option two.

tTo do this, get a set of wires. One goes to the (+) post on the
battery, the other to the (-) post. Then find the injector (or one of
the injectors) and clip one of the wires to one of the injector power
feeds. Then touch the other one, FOR NO MORE THAN ONE SECOND AT A TIME
to the other power feed. Pause a couple of seconds between applications
of power. Repeat until no more fuel comes out of the injector.

You are depressurised.
- --
Andre
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Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 06:31:45 -0800
From: Ralph Lindberg & Ellen Winnie
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Tired C6 replacement.

I will just address the concepts in towing.

First check to see how much cooling your current trany has, if it's not a
large cooler, change the cooler as you replace the C6. You also might take
the time to check the radiator, if it's not large, replace it also.
Also, add a temp gauge for the trany, a nice place to put the sensor is
right next/in the outlet from the trany to the cooler. This can help keep
you from over heating the new trany.
Next, halve the service interval, the suggested interval is based on a
lighter duty cycle then the previous owner run, and lighter then some of
your proposed use

Ralph Lindberg N7BSN ICQ 5988954
RV and Camping FAQ
Just because MS-Window's holds 90% of the market doesn't mean it's
superior. Remember 90% of all animals are insects.




Ralph Lindberg N7BSN e-mail to rlindber kendaco.telebyte.net
RV and Camping FAQ
They call it "Sur'n the Net" 'cause you can wipe out so easy

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Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 09:30:08 -0500
From: David Cole
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Tired C6 replacement.

>>From: Warren G Kafer
>>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Tired C6 replacement.
>
>>What things should I look out for in changing the C6 out myself?
>>
>>Suggestions and experiences greatly appreciated.


Be careful the
>torque convertor doesn't fall out of the transmission as you are
>installing or removing it.
>Hope this helps...
>Steve Best, Nova Scotia, sbest glinx.com

A tip to keep the converter from falling out. After you slide the trans
back about an inch, before you begin to lower it on the jack, use a box end
wrench (1/2" at least 4-5" long. Use one of the starter mounting holes in
the bellhousing and bolt the wrench down so that it sticks out in front of
the converter. The converter might be able to move a little, but it won't
fall out. When installing the trans, remove the wrench with all the
wrestling is over with and the bellhousing is close to the block.

One other tip. Your engine block will have holes for 6 bellhousing bolts.
Replace the bottom one on each side with a 2.5" stud. It makes the
wrestling part a whole lot easier.

Later,

David Cole
92 F-150 XLT 2wd Ext Cab, 302/AOD, Towing setup for 69 Mustang Fastback
Dragcar. 383-W C-6, 4k stall, 5.13 gear.

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Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 11:15:19 -0500
From: "Chad A. Dietrich"
Subject: FTE 80-96 -Enamel paint?

I have an 86 f150 short box 5.0 SHO motor. What kind of paint was used on these
trucks? Was it enamel or base coat clear coat? the paint code is 7B. the dealer
told me that usually the clear coat had cc after the code. But my 97 f150 doesn't
have cc on it but the dealer told me that that was clear coat.

Thanks
Chad

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Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 09:29:26 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 300 6 cylinder

Don't feel so bad my AOD has developed a slight but irritating leak from
where the shifter arm inters the tranny housing. I am going to look at it
today to see what I can do about it. Any AOD experts out there who can give
me some advice would be appreciated.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: C. E. White
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, August 14, 1998 12:15 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 300 6 cylinder


>Well my 1992 300 Six will certainly do more than 80. The spedometer only
goes to
>85, but it doesn't stop accelerating there. The engine gave me no trouble
>pulling a 2000# sailboat (pretty wide and tall compared to a power boat)
down
>I-95 at over 75mph. Now if the d*** transmission lasts I will be OK (E4OD).
The
>transmission seems OK now, but earlier this summer I was idling around on
my
>farm checking on "stuff" and the transmission decided to pump all the fluid
out
>the front cover. Filled it back up and the problem has not
reoccurred...yet.
>
>Ed
>
>DHall8577 aol.com wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 98-08-11 06:46:12 EDT, owner-80-96-list-digest ford-
>> trucks.com writes:
>>
>>
need
>> to go!! :)
>> >>
>>
>> Computor won't let you go any faster, it shuts down the fuel system.....
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 13:13:50 PDT
From: "Denis SIS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - I'm Newbie !!; 351 A.I.R; axle seals; brakes; observations

Hi all,
I am a first time poster. I own a 1989 F350 SRW Crew Cab with a
351/C6/4.10. Why does my truck have the A.I.R. system that goes into
the exhaust manifolds intead of the type that goes into the back of the
head like most 351s of that vintage I've seen? Nobody at Ford could
give an answer. The only reason I could think of is that with the
non-overdrive transmission and the 4.10 gears, the truck needs this in
order to bring down the emissions, whereas if it was equipped with
3.55s, the engine would have the 'regular' A.I.R. sytem.
I am looking for headers for this truck if the exhaust manifolds
crack, like they did when the truck was under warranty. Ford replaced 4
or 5 in 90K, but I haven't had a problem since they installed a throttle
body 'kit'. This 'kit' is like a sleeve in the throttle body bore.
After they installed this 'kit', the truck runs the best it has ever
run. I bought it new and it now has 121k.
I have also had a problem with rear axle seals. Each side has been
replaced at twice, maybe three times.
The brake pedal also feels too spongy. I have had everything replaced
except the power brake booster in the past year and it still feels like
it has a problem stopping, even when empty. Suggestions??
Other observations:
1. Buy a cat-back exhaust and K&N air filter ASAP, it is definately
worth it.
2. NEVER tow in overdrive, unless the factory towing guide says it is
OK.

Thanks and have great weekend!

Denis Hergenreter
denis500 hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 18:08:04 EDT
From: PhilDyson aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Tired C6 replacement.

Warren,
Rebuild it yourself, it's not that hard, just messy. I've done several
for different trucks and didn't need any special tools except a good sturdy
long nosed snap ring expander.
The tricky part is draining the fuid without taking a bath in the process.
Don't forget to drain the converter too. Haynes makes a good reference book
that will tell you anything you need to know. I buy master kits with for
about $90 a new band will be about $12. It's all you need.
It is heavy so be carefull pulling it. You can pull without unbolting the
converter but make sure you support it or you could damage the converter.
When putting the converter back in be sure it gooes all the way in. It may
feel like it popped in with a thunk but still need to go further (2 pops). If
not all the way in you'll break your bell housing bolting her up. I always
stand the tranny on it's tail and spin the converter so gravity will help pop
it in. Spin it both directions.
If you don't have a large bench you can work on the floor. Just be sure
it is clean, clean, clean. Pull the gus out as an assy and lay hem out in
order on a clean towel. Clean and rebuild each clutch pack in order and
you'll not get confused during reassmbly.
I put a 150,000 mi on my 86 4X4 and it had the same symptoms. I pull a
28' 5th wheel and I put my 18' Bass boat on behind the camper.
A stock converter and a fresh rebuild will work just fine. No need for a
shift kit, once rebuilt it'll will be a firm shifter some would say hard
shifter. Get an aftermarket tranny oil coooler and put it in line with your
radiator and you'll be in business. BTW I also add a quart of TransX when I
refill (I love that stuff).
Good luck,
Phil

In a message dated 98-08-13 12:26:12 EDT, you write:


previous owner put about 60k of that towing a 31' fifth-wheel around
the US.

Symptoms: Hunts on the 2-3 shift some. All shifts are 'sloppy'.
Fluid isn't fresh but color and smell are good.

Diagnonsis??? Replace the tired C6 with a fresh C6.

Now the fun part: Since I intend to tow a fifth-wheel with the
truck and sometime haul a slide-in camper:
What if any shift kit should I put in while I'm at it?
Is there a torque converter with a slightly lower stall speed
than the old stock one? Would this help gas mileage (8.9mpg)?
What things should I look out for in changing the C6 out myself?

Suggestions and experiences greatly appreciated.

TTYL >>
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Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 23:27:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: Warren Auld
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Brake Light

Hi all,

Hopefully someone will recognize this problem and know how to correct it.

I have an '87 F-250 Diesel 4x4 (the motor is an '83 according to the data
plate). Occasionally the brake light on the dashboard will come on for no
apparent reason (as in driving down the road -- not braking or hitting
bumps). The front brakes were replaced (pads, calipers and rotors) in the
last 500 miles. The rear brakes have been looked at and appear to be okay.
After the light came on (and went back off) the first time, I went hunting
in Chilton's and found a small note about lose of vacuum and the brake
light. A couple belts (including that one) were looking a little sad so I
replaced 'em all (the belt to the vacuum pump is behind all the others.)
It still does it. Any suggestions what to try next?

thanks in advance,

warren

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Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 01:50:14 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Light

At 11:27 PM 8/14/98 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Hi all,
>
>Hopefully someone will recognize this problem and know how to correct it.
>
>I have an '87 F-250 Diesel 4x4 (the motor is an '83 according to the data
>plate). Occasionally the brake light on the dashboard will come on for no
>apparent reason (as in driving down the road -- not braking or hitting
>bumps). The front brakes were replaced (pads, calipers and rotors) in the
>last 500 miles. The rear brakes have been looked at and appear to be okay.
>After the light came on (and went back off) the first time, I went hunting
>in Chilton's and found a small note about lose of vacuum and the brake
>light. A couple belts (including that one) were looking a little sad so I
>replaced 'em all (the belt to the vacuum pump is behind all the others.)
>It still does it. Any suggestions what to try next?
>
> thanks in advance,
>
> warren
>

The proportioning valve or master cylinder is bad. The light indicates
an inbalance between the front and rear brake circuits. If the brake
shop you went to couldn't figure this thing out, RUN AWAY FROM THEM AS
FAST AS YOU CAN!!!!


Ken Payne
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Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 01:48:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: Warren Auld
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Light

The shop's not at fault on this one (actually they're pretty good.) The
brake job came about shortly after I bought the truck. I'd taken it in to
get some new tires for the front and they discovered pie plates
masquerading as brake rotors. I haven't taken it back in to see what they
can do (I can't reproduce the problem -- it seems to happen randomly.)

The proportioning valve or master cylinder are good candidates. My
understanding is that Ford master cylinders use a system where a slug is
displaced and won't recenter itself. The light should come on and stay
on (when the light's off, I can turn it on with the parking brake). I've
never heard of a proportioning valve breaking (this is based on my
admittedly limited experience.) I'd hate to replace it only to have the
problem recur (I'd also hate to have the Highway Patrol scrape me off the
road.)

warren

On Sat, 15 Aug 1998, Ken Payne wrote:
>
> The proportioning valve or master cylinder is bad. The light indicates
> an inbalance between the front and rear brake circuits. If the brake....

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