80-96-list-digest Thursday, August 6 1998 Volume 02 : Number 272



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Thanx Guys
FTE 80-96 - Expert help?: Rear axle assbly 89F350 DRW
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: hubs
FTE 80-96 - replacing the auto-locking hubs
Re: FTE 80-96 - replacing the auto-locking hubs
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a
FTE 80-96 - Update: E4OD shifting problems - Me Too!
RE: FTE 80-96 - resetting the speedo on the latr model ford.
FTE 80-96 - Battery terminal
Re: FTE 80-96 - Battery terminal
FTE 80-96 - Re: Tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - Battery terminal
FTE 80-96 - Re: 4x4 hubs
FTE 80-96 - Re: attn: jepavie
FTE 80-96 - Re: hubs
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a
Re: FTE 80-96 - Battery terminal
FTE 80-96 - Re: Popping crossmembers
FTE 80-96 - codes/sensors/problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - voltage problem
RE: FTE 80-96 - voltage problem
FTE 80-96 - STULL GRILL..POLISHED FOR SALE
Re: FTE 80-96 - replacing the auto-locking hubs
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: attn: jepavie
Re: FTE 80-96 - voltage problem

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 08:28:09 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Thanx Guys

Gang,
I meant to tell you guys thanx for the help. I got
my flywheel bolt fixed with the helicoil insert and
my tranmission back in and the crossmember back on.
Coinsidentally, I was a little gun shy and only tightened
the fixed bolt to 60 feet/#'s as opposed to the other
5 bolts being 80 feet/#'s. I also put on 6 new pressure
plate bolts and lock washers. Turned it over and let it
run while still on the four jackstands(not recommended
for everybody) and it did not leak. This was Friday. Oh,
the reason I had the tranmission out this time was to replace the
rear main oil seal. I would'v finished this weekend but I
had to drive 12.5 hours on Saturday to pick my Mom up
in Murtle Beach then I drove back on Sunday. LONG time
behind thw wheel. I will put
the driveshafts and interior stuff back in tonight after me
and my wife go take some more pictures of the new house.
Oh, just to let you know, this is my first house and I made the
garage a little larger to 20'x22' from 20'x20'. I wished I would
of changed it to 22'x22' but that would of added the cost of
bringing out the whole side of the house and I could not afford
that. Our projected closing date is Aug. 27th. Looks like
they may make it. Sorry to get off the subject, I'm excited
about that too.
Anyways, after 4 LONG HARD FOUGHT weeks of cursing,
screaming, waking up the neighbors, and kicking my wife's cats
I THINK I HAVE MY TRUCK AGAIN. :-)
I am going to go straight to the tire place tomorrow and get
my alignment after putting in the new ball joints a couple of
weeks ago. Also, I am stopping on my way home today
and getting another set of the chrome tire lugnuts. I am getting
rid of those d*mn locking lugnuts. Thanx again gang.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 09:29:42 -0400
From: "Mike S. in FL"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Expert help?: Rear axle assbly 89F350 DRW

Hi: Does anyone know if the full floating 10.25" Ford rear axle assbly
can have it's tubes re-straightened? The tubes look very straight, they
appear to just be moved back from their original location by a bit.
These are the tubes that looked like they're pressed into the diff., not
welded or molded. (at least they don't look it)

This one was hit from the front and twisted around the spare tire. Each
side is about 2-1/2 inches behind normal. (rear of tires are closer
together than front of tires) It's got a nice toe-out, but I guess it
shouldn't have any back there!

It's not driveable right now, and all the techs in the area (15-20 miles
away) want me to bring it in so they can look at it. If I could bring
it in, I wouldn't need it fixed.

Thanks for any help, ESPECIALLY if you have good news!

Mike Smith in FL
vaxmgr earthlink.net
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Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 09:18:46 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: hubs

Randy Kindler wrote:

> They are easy to change. It took less than an hour to do both sides. Just
> remove the old ones, and pop in the new ones. The hardest part was the

Yes they are, and yeah they do.


> previously mentioned retaining ring. ( I like the dental tool idea, BTW.)

Thank you. So did my agonizing patience.


- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 09:27:59 -0500
From: markga cyrix.com (Mark Gaetz)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - replacing the auto-locking hubs

- - -----Original Message-----

>I fully agree with replacing the auto-locking hubs with manual ones. I
>replaced my auto hubs when I replaced my electronic shift transfer case with
>a manual one. The reason you get better compression braking with the manual
>hubs is because the auto hubs disengage when coasting downhill, not a good
>feature when you are trying to slow down without the brakes.
>
>Rade

I don't quite understand how the hubs disengage? wouldn't they also disengage
in reverse then? I may have to dig into my chiltons manual this evening...

I have a 93 Bronco and I've always been skeptical of auto locking hubs. Should
I be worried about my auto-locking hubs failing? If I decide to change them
will I have the same snap ring hassel as the 95-96's ?

Thanks,
Mark.
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Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 10:00:29 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - replacing the auto-locking hubs

Mark Gaetz wrote:

> I don't quite understand how the hubs disengage? wouldn't they also disengage
> in reverse then? I may have to dig into my chiltons manual this evening...

Right, that has been my understanding. That to disengage the
4wd you have to backup 10 feet then take out the transfercase.
But then again I have never owned an auto locking one.


> I have a 93 Bronco and I've always been skeptical of auto locking hubs. Should
> I be worried about my auto-locking hubs failing? If I decide to change them
> will I have the same snap ring hassel as the 95-96's ?

Wish I could tell ya. :-(

Tell ya what, I will post this to the bronco list and let the poeple
with the new ones explain this. I'll then repost to the list after we
get some answers. :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 09:17:08 -0600
From: "David Sagers"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a

Last time I checked PEP boys had all the parts to rebuild an A/C, and a =
lot of the R-12, the price is high because of the tax placed on it, but =
still available.

I installed all the parts and PEP boys checked to make sure the system was =
sealed and they installed the Freon.

>>> 08/04 7:53 AM >>>

> From: John M Randall
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a
> =20
> At 06:03 PM 8/3/98 -0700, you wrote:
> >I have a 1984 Ford Bronco and need to have the A/C fixed. It has =
leaked
> >for several years and this year it completely lost it's charge. I
> >brought it to a reputable auto a/c repair shop and they said they the
> >compressor was shot (after 200,000 miles) and it also needed the
> >accumulator/drier replaced and a new orifice tube. Then they would =
flush
> >the system and recharge with R-134a. Unfortunately the price tag for =
all
> >this was pretty steep - $790. So I wanted to check out all the =
options
> >before I went ahead and had this done.
> >
> >1) Has anyone out there had their A/C converted to R-134a? How well =
did
> >it cool after the conversion?
> >
> >2) Does anyone know what the official Ford recommendation it for =
this?=20
> >Is there a TSB out there to look at? Did any of the later Broncos =
come
> >with R134a?
> >
> >Thanks in advance for the help. =20
> >
> >Dave,
> =20
> I didn't think you had an option "to change to R134a or to stay with =
R12"
> It was my understanding that R12 was NO LONGER being made except for =
one
> country, India I think, and WAS not being imported into USA. Along =
with
> the price of R12.

There's still *LOTS* of R12 left, and the price is dropping. What with
stockpiling and reclaiming, it hasn't disappeared as fast as was feared.
=3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 08:23:34 -0700
From: "Wood, Steve"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Update: E4OD shifting problems - Me Too!

An update on my problem of SLAMming into higher gears (original text below).
After removing the ATG Interceptor, I have had no more slams into higher
gears, even when towing the travel trailer up hills. I suspect the ATG unit
failed (after ~1 month!) or one of the wires broke/shorted out. I really
miss the lock-up delay, but it's not worth the slamming shifts!

Stephen Wood
Driving Mr. Thirsty (1995 F-350 460/Crew Cab)

- --------- Original Message ---------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 14:23:27 -0700
From: "Wood, Steve"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: E4OD shifting problems - Me Too!

I ran into a similar problem this weekend, towing our travel trailer
(heavy, like 9000 lbs) in 90+ degree weather. The first time was when we
reached the top of a hill, and the tranny shifted from 2 to 3, it was a
definite SLAM. Right at about the same time we began smelling some
unfamiliar odor, which I can't effectively describe, other than to say
it had a petroleum or hydraulic tinge to it. Not heavy, or hot, or
burned. Anyway, after the initial SLAM all upshifts had a slam, even
under light load (like almost coasting). We pulled over, but could not
see any problems: no leaks, no smell outside the truck, nothing. Tranny
fluid looked nice and pink, and plenty of it. So we continued on,
although a bit more carefully.

This truck is equiped with the ATG interceptor (see
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.atg-autotrans.com/intercept.htm), which can adjust the tranny
line pressure. I thought maybe the unit had failed, so before returning
I set the adjustment to "none" (full counterclockwise), which should set
it back to the factory specs. Had the same experience coming home:
Started slamming on an uphill grade, and continued even on level ground.
Any upshift, as well as initially shifting into R or D, was really
harsh. Downshifts seemed fine.

My next test will be to remove the Interceptor and see how it does on
our trip this weekend.

I'd like to hear if anyone else has had similar experience with the
Interceptor.

Stephen Wood
Driving Mr. Thirsty (1995 F-350 460/Crew Cab)


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Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 13:24:02 -0400
From: Tony Thurston
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - resetting the speedo on the latr model ford.

Further to James Beaman's helpful email, does anyone know if there is a
procedure for doing the same thing on a 1991 F150?

===========================================================
Tony Thurston Phone: (613)
230-3676
JetForm Corporation Fax: (613)
751-4864
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jetform.com
mailto:tthursto jetform.com
===========================================================





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Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 15:44:38 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Battery terminal

First off I have a 1994 F150 Lightning and just about every month both
positive battery terminal gets so corroded that I have to clean it to
get my alarm system to work.(this is irritating since the alarm has a
starter disable) I know they need cleaning once in a while but not every
month! What is causing it to corrode so fast? It effects my alarm system
but nothing else because once I defeat the alarm I have no problem
starting the truck! At first I thought it was the alarm that was the
problem but as soon as I clean the terminal it works perfect!
Thanks for any help
Chris
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Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 16:00:40 -0400
From: "C. E. White"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Battery terminal

I would suggest trying a new battery. The alarm system probably draws very
little current, but need a good 11.5+ volts to work. A new battery will
prbably make this voltage and reduce the corrosion. Where is the alarm
circuit tied into the trucks wiring? Do you have any problems with your
clock keeping time or the radio forgetting the pre-sets? One other
thought...is the act of cleaning the terminals resetting the alarm? The next
time the alarm acts up just disconnect and reconnect the terminals without
cleaning anything.

Regards,

Ed White

Garr&Pam wrote:

> First off I have a 1994 F150 Lightning and just about every month both
> positive battery terminal gets so corroded that I have to clean it to
> get my alarm system to work.(this is irritating since the alarm has a
> starter disable) I know they need cleaning once in a while but not every
> month! What is causing it to corrode so fast? It effects my alarm system
> but nothing else because once I defeat the alarm I have no problem
> starting the truck! At first I thought it was the alarm that was the
> problem but as soon as I clean the terminal it works perfect!
> Thanks for any help
> Chris
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Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 15:53:43 -0500
From: "Jram"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Tires

For what its worth, I have an '81 F-150 4x4 with 33 x 12.5 x 15 tires and
they rub the radius arms at complete (and I mean complete) steering lock
slightly. This has never been a problem because I am always going slow in
those conditions and hardly ever go full lock anyway.
jram swbell.net


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Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 17:05:55 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Battery terminal

I would suggest trying a new battery. The alarm system probably draws
very
little current, but need a good 11.5+ volts to work. A new battery will
prbably make this voltage and reduce the corrosion. Where is the alarm
circuit tied into the trucks wiring? Do you have any problems with your
clock keeping time or the radio forgetting the pre-sets? One other
thought...is the act of cleaning the terminals resetting the alarm? The
next
time the alarm acts up just disconnect and reconnect the terminals
without
cleaning anything.

The alarm is under the dash and wired through the ignition, lights and
power locks. The radio forgets the bass and tremble settings along with
the time(only sometimes with the clock) but never forgets the stations
that I have set. I was debating getting a new battery anyway so I guess
I will try that. If the battery was overcharging would it cause this?
Thanks
Chris
P.S. has anyone had experience with the new spiral cell batteries?

First off I have a 1994 F150 Lightning and just about every month both
positive battery terminal gets so corroded that I have to clean it to
get my alarm system to work.(this is irritating since the alarm has a
starter disable) I know they need cleaning once in a while but not every
month! What is causing it to corrode so fast? It effects my alarm system
but nothing else because once I defeat the alarm I have no problem
starting the truck! At first I thought it was the alarm that was the
problem but as soon as I clean the terminal it works perfect!
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Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 16:00:41 -0500
From: "Jram"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 4x4 hubs

Can the autos, install the Warn manual locking hubs and you will never have
a problem again. You can by them over the Internet from www.4wdstore.com
for under $80 to your front door. That has been my experience anyway.
jram swbell.net


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Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 20:32:40 -0400
From: "THE PAVIES'"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: attn: jepavie

*Geez, I don't know what to tell you about the 300 engine except that I
*haven't had very much trouble with it. It kept stalling last year so I
*replaced the throttle position and oxygen sensors. Other than that, I
*haven't had any trouble with it (knock on wood). I've changed the
*plugs and wires twice. It just turned over 203,000 miles today and I
*hope to get a lot more on it before a rebuild.
*Good luck with your E250. Jack P.
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Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 18:50:04 -0600
From: "Randy Kindler"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: hubs

Just curious, does anyone know how the front axle works on the 97 fords? Is
it vacuum, or electronic? Just wonderin'.

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Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 21:23:58 -0400
From: troyw mfi.net (Troy Williams)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Conditioning Conversion to R134a

On 3 Aug 98, at 20:49, John M Randall wrote:

>I didn't think you had an option "to change to R134a or to stay with R12"
>It was my understanding that R12 was NO LONGER being made except for one
>country, India I think, and WAS not being imported into USA. Along with
>the price of R12.

On my mother's '86, they just changed the coolant and they put
some kind of additive and it changed it on over to the r134 stuff.
Didn't cost that much to do it either. I don't know if that is going to
be different on different vehicles or not.

You might be a redneck if... Your main source of entertainment is
listening to your neighbors fight. - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://countrycorner.home.ml.org
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Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 23:17:42 -0400
From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Battery terminal

After thoroughly cleaning the corrosion are you using a
Protestant/preventative compound to prevent reoccurrence? I found that
Permatex offers a very effective spray for this purpose. Also consider
cleaning the entire battery outer surface so that there is no way a path
for current flow exists between the two terminals.

John Miller, FoMoCoNUT Gibralter.net
96 F-350 Reg Cab XLT, 4x4, 460 w/ A4OD, My Baby "Baloo"
75 F-100 Reg Cab Ranger, 2wd, 360, C6, Daily Driver "Lucy"
and "always" looking ! ! !

- ----------
> From: Garr&Pam
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Battery terminal
> Date: Wednesday, August 05, 1998 1:05 PM
>
> I would suggest trying a new battery. The alarm system probably draws
> very
> little current, but need a good 11.5+ volts to work. A new battery will
> prbably make this voltage and reduce the corrosion. Where is the alarm
> circuit tied into the trucks wiring? Do you have any problems with your
> clock keeping time or the radio forgetting the pre-sets? One other
> thought...is the act of cleaning the terminals resetting the alarm? The
> next
> time the alarm acts up just disconnect and reconnect the terminals
> without
> cleaning anything.
>
> The alarm is under the dash and wired through the ignition, lights and
> power locks. The radio forgets the bass and tremble settings along with
> the time(only sometimes with the clock) but never forgets the stations
> that I have set. I was debating getting a new battery anyway so I guess
> I will try that. If the battery was overcharging would it cause this?
> Thanks
> Chris
> P.S. has anyone had experience with the new spiral cell batteries?
>
> First off I have a 1994 F150 Lightning and just about every month both
> positive battery terminal gets so corroded that I have to clean it to
> get my alarm system to work.(this is irritating since the alarm has a
> starter disable) I know they need cleaning once in a while but not every
> month! What is causing it to corrode so fast? It effects my alarm system
> but nothing else because once I defeat the alarm I have no problem
> starting the truck! At first I thought it was the alarm that was the
> problem but as soon as I clean the terminal it works perfect!
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 20:55:23 -0700
From: Jon Berman
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Popping crossmembers

Well,
If I'm lucky enough to be able to loosen the auto trans crossmember
bolts underneath my truck with hand tools to install some shims, I'll
need to tighten 'em back up. For anyone with a factory manual, what are
the appropriate torque specs for the crossmember bolts? It's for a 1994
F-150, 2wd.

Thank you,
Jon

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Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 00:13:04 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - codes/sensors/problems

check this out , for any of you fellow ford brothers here is a valuble site.
it shows you how to test you computer system.
edge.com/shotimes/SHO3eeccodes.html">EEC Self Test Procedure
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Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 00:21:36 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - voltage problem

hey brian, thanks for the info. i wonder if anybody else has had this problem
besides us.well i will look into a more powerful alternator.
joe
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Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 22:53:31 -0600
From: "Brian Soderblom"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - voltage problem

Pretty much everybody I've talked to who has had to replace this type
of alternator has had a lot of problems with it. The mustang alt is a
much better solution. There are also a variety of other ways to go
(someone emailed me and told me about his solution, it was a custom
that puts out 220A, about $300 with 2yr warranty.) Summit sells one
that will fit, etc. I'm not sure whether the other solutions use the
same rectifier plug or not.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of JSC721 aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 1998 10:22 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - voltage problem
>
>
> hey brian, thanks for the info. i wonder if anybody else
> has had this problem
> besides us.well i will look into a more powerful alternator.
> joe
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>

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Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 01:34:06 EDT
From: FSTFORDS aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - STULL GRILL..POLISHED FOR SALE

FOR SALE...STULL BILLET POLISHED GRILL W/ FORD EMBLEM $100 + SHIPPING
FROM TACOMA,WA
FITS 92-96 F-SERIES AND BRONCO

M. LONG
(253) 536-5762
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Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 23:11:47 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - replacing the auto-locking hubs

It has somethingto do with where the torque is coming from and how the
clutch/ratchet assembly works. If the torque is coming from the wheels
(i.e. coasting) then they spin free, if the torque is coming from the axle
(in either direction) then they lock. I think that is how they work. I had
no problem replacing the hubs (no snap ring pain) on my '90, I'll bet the
'93 uses the same setup.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Gaetz
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, August 05, 1998 2:31 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - replacing the auto-locking hubs


>- -----Original Message-----
>
>>I fully agree with replacing the auto-locking hubs with manual ones. I
>>replaced my auto hubs when I replaced my electronic shift transfer case
with
>>a manual one. The reason you get better compression braking with the
manual
>>hubs is because the auto hubs disengage when coasting downhill, not a good
>>feature when you are trying to slow down without the brakes.
>>
>>Rade
>
>I don't quite understand how the hubs disengage? wouldn't they also
disengage
>in reverse then? I may have to dig into my chiltons manual this evening...
>
>I have a 93 Bronco and I've always been skeptical of auto locking hubs.
Should
>I be worried about my auto-locking hubs failing? If I decide to change them
>will I have the same snap ring hassel as the 95-96's ?
>
>Thanks,
>Mark.
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Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 23:39:32 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: attn: jepavie

300's are great engines, better for low end torque than a 302 and you can
get up to 21MPG if the are in good shape (and have EFI). They are also very
durable engines and should last you a long time if well maintained.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: THE PAVIES'
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, August 06, 1998 12:40 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: attn: jepavie


>*Geez, I don't know what to tell you about the 300 engine except that I
>*haven't had very much trouble with it. It kept stalling last year so I
>*replaced the throttle position and oxygen sensors. Other than that, I
>*haven't had any trouble with it (knock on wood). I've changed the
>*plugs and wires twice. It just turned over 203,000 miles today and I
>*hope to get a lot more on it before a rebuild.
>*Good luck with your E250. Jack P.
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 23:54:01 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - voltage problem
....

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