80-96-list-digest Friday, July 31 1998 Volume 02 : Number 265



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
Re: FTE 80-96 - No-Go 1996 F150 5.0 LWB Lariat 2wd AOD
FTE 80-96 - resetting the speedo on the latr model ford.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Clutch Problem...
Re: FTE 80-96 - Putting clutch back together
FTE 80-96 - B&M Shift Improver Kits
FTE 80-96 - nerf bars on 97 F250 PSD
Re: FTE 80-96 - No-Go 1996 F150 5.0 LWB Lariat 2wd AOD
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: E4OD
Re: FTE 80-96 - AOD vs. E4OD
RE: FTE 80-96 - resetting the speedo on the latr model ford.
Re: FTE 80-96 - AOD vs. E4OD
FTE 80-96 - RE: F-250 PSD lift kit
FTE 80-96 - Re: Putting Clutch Back together
Re: FTE 80-96 - resetting the speedo on the latr model ford.
Re: FTE 80-96 - resetting the speedo on the latr model ford.
[none]
FTE 80-96 - tires
FTE 80-96 - Swap questions...
RE: FTE 80-96 - resetting the speedo on the latr model ford.
Re: FTE 80-96 - CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
RE: FTE 80-96 - AOD's
FTE 80-96 - Airbags

=======================================================================

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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 07:11:45 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - CHECK ENGINE LIGHT

Rob Sartorius wrote:

> WHERE ON THE DASH ON A 1984 F-150 XLT EXT CAB IS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT?
> MINE IS EITHER NOT THERE OR BURNED OUT....

I am not sure, but if your dash is like my bronco then it is
very easy to take off. Just take about eight bolts off across
the front edge.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 08:12:28 -0400
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - No-Go 1996 F150 5.0 LWB Lariat 2wd AOD

- ----------
> From: Tony
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - No-Go 1996 F150 5.0 LWB Lariat 2wd AOD
> Date: Friday, July 31, 1998 4:51 AM
>
> I have a 1996 5 litre fuel injected F150. A couple of days ago my
parents
> drove it to town and told me that it had missed or backfired a couple of
> times during the trip.
>
> They parked it in the driveway (cold weather 5 degrees celsius) all
> afternoon and when I went out to put it in the shed that night it would
not
> start.
>
> Fred Moreno has given me some good advice but I can't quite track down
the
> problem. It turns over freely, but will not fire. Their is plenty of fuel
> in the tanks.
>
> With the key in the 'ON' position I can hear the fuel pump running and I
> can hear a definite hissing noise coming from a small cannister mounted
on
> the side of the fuel rail about 1 foot behind the fuel pressure relief
> valve. It is just next to the air filter box and has three screws holding
> it to a plate mounted on the fuel rail. It is on the left hand side of
the
> valley between the 3rd and 4th injector from the front. There is a red
> plastic hose running into it. If I remove the hose and place my finger
over
> the end of it (the hose) the noise remains so it is not a leaking hose.
If
> I place my finger over the cannister where the hose goes on, it still
> persists. I am wondering whether it is supposed to make the noise or is
the
> cannister broken or cracked.
>
> Fred suggested that it was a pressure regulator diaphragm, but his
> description placed it downstream of the fuel rail, not midway between
the
> third and fourth injector from the front.
>
> Can anyone suggest a solution? Am I way off track perhaps?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Tony Mexon.
> Australia.
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

That little canister you describe is the pressure regulator. ( about 1.5 "
dia. , 1" high, chrome ) The stainless braid hose connected to the fuel
rail under the regulator is the return line ( the blue covered hose is the
feed line from the fuel pump ). There will be a certain amount of noise
from the regulator as fuel passes through it. I'm not agile enough to
check the sound by myself on my truck, so I can't tell you how loud it
might be. If you can find someone with a fuel pressure gauge, you can test
the regulator. Attach the gauge to that Schrader valve you identified as
the relief valve. I don't know the actual pressure you should have, but it
should be in the 40 to 60 PSI range.

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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 08:59:58 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - resetting the speedo on the latr model ford.

Does anyone have the instructions for adjusting the speedo on the 95 truck?

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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 08:11:09 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clutch Problem...

Jeff fisher wrote:

> I have an 84 F-250 4WD w/460 and manual trans..
>
> The clutch pedal no longer returns fully after being pressed, I can
> bring it up by pulling on it with my foot after using it. Also it
> does not fully disengage the clutch. This a hydraulic clutch so there
> is no adjustment that I am aware of and the fluid level is fine.
>
> Anybody aware of the problem here? I suspect a bad throwout bearing
> but it does not make any incriminating noises...

Jeff,
I don't have the hydraulic slaves, but right now my bronco has the
tranmission out waiting for me to go get a helical reapir kit. One of
the flywheel bolts were stripped. Sorry I got off subject. Ummm,
okay so it sounds to me like the reason your clutch is not returning
is that it has lost the clutch return spring. Either that or it is worn
out.
If that is the case go to a parts house and get a universal one. That is
the 1' to 1' 6" length. Then you can custom lengthen it yourself. They
only run about $3.00. Anyways check the return spring and make
sure it is still there or may be worn out.

About the disengaging part. I can't really answer that, because
I replaced my clutch/pressure plate, and pilot bushing because
it wouldn't engage or grab the next gear.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 08:15:32 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Putting clutch back together

Thanx Randy.

- -
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)



Randy wrote:

> Rick Wojciechowski wrote:
> >
> -----snip-----
>
> > And ofcourse if something is going to happen its going to
> > happen to ME. I was on the road to putting it back together
> > and I snapped one of the six bolts that holds the clutch
> > pressure plate to the flywheel. :-( So I took the clutch/
> > pressure plate off, then took the flywheel BACK off and I am
> > going to get 6 new bolts. I have a feeling the pressure plate bolts
> > are really a limited bolt, that is they are limited to how many times
> > they should be taken off. I guess your not supposed to be taking your
> > clutch apart every other week. :-)
> >
> > Also let me ask, should there be lock washers on the pressure plate
> > bolts ? I left them on there when I was replacing the clutch 3 weeks
> > ago, but was't sure if they HAVE to be there.
> >
> -----snip-----
>
> Wojo,
> EVERY bolt has a limited life expectancy. I don't know if you can get
> a torque wrench up in there or not, but if you can, torque to
> spec...no more...no less. I could go nuts in here talking about
> tensile strengths, fatigue factors and other such, but that's what it
> comes down to. When you torque any bolt you actually are stretching
> the bolt slightly. That combined w/the twisting force (torque) can
> wear out a heavily used bolt right quick. Hence the reason engine
> rebuilders use new bolts for the connecting rods and caps. Also if
> those other bolts had the lock washers USE them. Under harsh use or
> heavy vibration they'll keep the bolts from backing out (I'm sure you
> don't want that to happen). About the only other device to prevent
> that from happening is ny-locks (nuts w/nylon inserts in them), but
> probably not useful for this situation.
>
> Hope to be of some help,
> Randy (Brew)
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 09:03:00 -0400
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: FTE 80-96 - B&M Shift Improver Kits

Has anyone ever used the B&M shift improver kits? What are the pros and
cons. Are they good for everyday driving or just for tow vehicles. I
have heard they give a real hard quick shift. Would this cause problems
in slippery conditions like in the winter. What are your guys opinion on
these.
Thanks for any info.

Mike
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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 07:05:23 PDT
From: "Rob Bubala"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - nerf bars on 97 F250 PSD

Hell0

Last night, I tried to put on a set of Smittybuilt nerf bars on my 1997
F250 PSD, and when we went to the drivers side, there were fuel lines
and a lot of other connections running along the inside of the frame
rail. Has anyone out there put these bars on, and if so, did you have to
relocate the fuel lines or did you just sort of move them.

Thanks

Rob Bubala
jeep_cj8 hotmail.com

p.s. Info on that lift kit would be helpful as well. I do have a
SUperlift kit on my Jeep Scrambler and it has performed very well, their
products are great.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 09:21:12 -0500
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - No-Go 1996 F150 5.0 LWB Lariat 2wd AOD

Matt Fitzsimmons wrote:

> > With the key in the 'ON' position I can hear the fuel pump running and I
> > can hear a definite hissing noise coming from a small cannister mounted on
> > the side of the fuel rail about 1 foot behind the fuel pressure relief
>
>
> That little canister you describe is the pressure regulator. ( about 1.5 "
> dia. , 1" high, chrome ) The stainless braid hose connected to the fuel
> rail under the regulator is the return line ( the blue covered hose is the
> feed line from the fuel pump ). There will be a certain amount of noise
> from the regulator as fuel passes through it.

Some food for thought: when you switch the key "on", but don't engage the starter,
the fuel pump should turn on, but only for long enough to pressurize the fuel
rail--then it should turn off.

Perhaps your pressure regulator has malfunctioned and is just bypassing the fuel,
not allowing any pressure to build?

- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------


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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 09:11:29 -0800
From: Ralph Lindberg & Ellen Winnie
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: E4OD

>> Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 00:55:42 EDT
>> From: RobSweed aol.com
>> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: E4OD
>>
>> Dave, I turned off the OD to eliminate that possibility. If it is a 4 speed
>> then I'm not getting much action in 3rd because it seems to go right to 4th.
>> Even when I try to accelerate in 3rd it either goes to 4th or drops down to
>> 2nd. It confuses the heck out of me.
>
>I thought the OD cancel switch just kept it out of 4th. It prevents TC
>lock-up as well??
I don't think so, I think you are correct (at least in one that is
working correctly)

Ralph Lindberg N7BSN ICQ 5988954
RV and Camping FAQ
Just because MS-Window's holds 90% of the market doesn't mean it's
superior. Remember 90% of all animals are insects.




Ralph Lindberg N7BSN e-mail to rlindber kendaco.telebyte.net
RV and Camping FAQ
They call it "Sur'n the Net" 'cause you can wipe out so easy

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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 09:10:51 -0800
From: Ralph Lindberg & Ellen Winnie
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AOD vs. E4OD

>AOD Trannies do not conect to the EEC-IV computer, they are not truly a
>heavy duty transmission. I'm not altogether sure that the E40D will bolt up
>to a 460.
certainly do, was riding in one just yesterday (and todau, long story)
that has both

Ralph Lindberg N7BSN ICQ 5988954
RV and Camping FAQ
Just because MS-Window's holds 90% of the market doesn't mean it's
superior. Remember 90% of all animals are insects.




Ralph Lindberg N7BSN e-mail to rlindber kendaco.telebyte.net
RV and Camping FAQ
They call it "Sur'n the Net" 'cause you can wipe out so easy

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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 11:21:32 -0500
From: "Beaman, James"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - resetting the speedo on the latr model ford.

David Butts wrote:

> Does anyone have the instructions for adjusting the speedo on the 95
> truck?
>
The following was posted to the list by Steven Brown
(hurricanesteve geocities.com) on 3/27/98. If you do this, I would be
interested in what your starting conversion constant is set at and how that
compares to what you calculate it should be for your stock tires. I
recently tried this and there was a large discrepancy between the two. Much
larger than the small error on my odometer. It leads me to wonder if the
formula for calculating the converstion constant below is wrong. Can anyone
else verify?

James Beaman
james.beaman lmco.com
Houston, Texas

First, get the tire revolution per mile. Then multiply that by 108 and
divide by 8000. This end figure is your CONVERSION CONSTANT.
RESET CONVERSION CONSTANT
Note: The module can only be reprogrammed six times.
Here is the actual procedure:
Locate the dealer mode programming enable single-terminal connector. The
connector is located at the bottom of the instrument panel below the center
of the glove box. On all vehicles, the dealer mode enable wire is Circuit
567(LB/Y).
Insert a jumper wire or alligator clip in service wire and clip other end
to vehicle ground with the key in the OFF postition.
Turn key to RUN while holding down the trip odometer RESET button on the
speedometer. Release RESET button.
The Speedometer will prove out(sweep across dial and back). The
English/Metric and revision levels will be displayed. The last number of
the display id the dealer mode lockout count. This count shows the number
of allowable conversion constant changes remaining. When the count is zero
(0), no aadditional changes can be made to this instrument cluster. If a
revision is required a service instrument cluster must be ordered.
Press and release RESET button again and PSOM conversion constant without
the decimal point will be displayed followed by the word CAL.
Press and release the odometer SELECT button as many times as necessary to
change the conversion constant to the correct value.
Note: Pressing and releasing the RESET button to lock in the new
conversion constant reduces the number of times the PSOM can be
reprogrammed by one count. If you change your mind and want to go back to
the old conversion constant, turn the key OFF BEFORE you lock in the new
constant.
When the new correct value is displayed in teh odometer window, press and
release the RESET button to lock in the new conversion constant.
Turn the key OFF and disconnect the ground wire and check to see that the
speedo works correctly.


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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 11:19:39 -0500
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AOD vs. E4OD

David Sagers wrote:

> Does the AOD trans require a computer?
>
> Is it as strong and dependable as the E4OD?

The 460 will rip it apart. I think a 351 would do the same.

- --
Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------


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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 09:58:13 -0700
From: Steve Faust
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: F-250 PSD lift kit

I have been researching lifts for about 6-8 months for a Project Truck.
It's a 1988 F-250 HD Supercab 4x4 with the 7.3 ltr diesel and C6 Tranny
(yep, it a heavy sucker). There are a couple of ways to go depending on
how much lift you want and the condition of the current springs, either
add-a-leaf or new springs for front and either add-a-leaf, new springs,
or blocks in the rear.

Typically for a 2-1/2 inch lift add-a-leafs are used up front and for 4"
or more new springs. On our F-250 the weight of the 7.3 has taken it's
toll on the front springs, which after 108k miles are sagging, so we
decided that it would be best to use new springs (didn't want put
add-a-leafs on the tired ones). Since we are replacing might a well go
with new 4" lift springs to get better tire / ground clearance. We also
didn't like the thought of blocks on the rear which could increase
possibility of spring wrap-up. Given these factors and looking at what
manufactures had to offer (most do not have rear springs for these
trucks) and talking to a number of truck owners we decided that there
were two solid possibilities Custom Springs from National Spring in San
Diego or a 4-leaf kit from Skyjacker (most of the manufactures do not
have kits that include rear springs, but instead only blocks)

The custom option worked out to be too expensive for our budget and
would still require additional hardware components. The Skyjacker leaf
springs are excellent in design and quality and their 'Softride' system
gives you great off-road handling while maintaining reasonable on-road
ride (not the bone-jarring you get from a lot of the off-road
performance focused kits).

This is my recommendation, but, do your our research as well and
consider how you use your truck. Drop me a line directly if you'd like
to discuss more details - we've also looked at a lot of tire/wheel
variations while considering the lift options.

Sorry, for the long post but sharing our learning is what it's all
about.

Steve Faust '88 F-250 Supercab 4X4 (7.3)


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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 09:56:09 -0800
From: Casey Vandor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Putting Clutch Back together

I just pulled the old (only 50,000 mi) clutch out of my 83, and it was
shot. Missing fingers, bearing was burned up, and the disc was down to
the rivets. Anyway, about the 6 bolts, 3 of mine had lock washers and 3
had a standard washers. I called the original owner (i am the second)
and he has never had the clutch, flywheel or anything down there worked
on, so the washers came like that from the factory. I plan on putting
lock washers in when the clutch gets here, and I do plan on torqueing
(spell) them to spec.

Friends don't let friends drive chevys
Casey Vandor

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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 14:00:26 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - resetting the speedo on the latr model ford.

What formula did you use to get your revs/mile?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Beaman, James
To: bigbroncos ; '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'

Date: Friday, July 31, 1998 1:34 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - resetting the speedo on the latr model ford.


>David Butts wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have the instructions for adjusting the speedo on the 95
>> truck?


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 14:32:49 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - resetting the speedo on the latr model ford.

How does this look for the Constant formula?


Given:
63360 Inches in a mile
Rolling Radius = 16"

R= 16 (Rolling radius in inches (estimated 33" tire ground to center of
hub))
D= 100.48 Diameter in inches (pi*R^2)
___________



63360 / D Inches in a mile = Revs per mile

=

630.5732484 Inches in a mile/diameter=Revs per mile


8.512738854 (revs/mile *108/8000) = CONSTANT for a simulated 33" tire

Or basically

((63360/X*2*3.14))*(108/8000) = (136.2038/X)

136.2038/rolling radius = CONSTANT






- -----Original Message-----
From: Beaman, James
To: bigbroncos ; '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'

Date: Friday, July 31, 1998 1:34 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - resetting the speedo on the latr model ford.


>David Butts wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have the instructions for adjusting the speedo on the 95
>> truck?
>>
>The following was posted to the list by Steven Brown
>(hurricanesteve geocities.com) on 3/27/98. If you do this, I would be
>interested in what your starting conversion constant is set at and how that
>compares to what you calculate it should be for your stock tires. I
>recently tried this and there was a large discrepancy between the two.
Much
>larger than the small error on my odometer. It leads me to wonder if the
>formula for calculating the converstion constant below is wrong. Can
anyone
>else verify?
>
>James Beaman
>james.beaman lmco.com
>Houston, Texas
>
>First, get the tire revolution per mile. Then multiply that by 108 and
>divide by 8000. This end figure is your CONVERSION CONSTANT.
>RESET CONVERSION CONSTANT
>Note: The module can only be reprogrammed six times.
>Here is the actual procedure:
>Locate the dealer mode programming enable single-terminal connector. The
>connector is located at the bottom of the instrument panel below the center
>of the glove box. On all vehicles, the dealer mode enable wire is Circuit
>567(LB/Y).
>Insert a jumper wire or alligator clip in service wire and clip other end
>to vehicle ground with the key in the OFF postition.
>Turn key to RUN while holding down the trip odometer RESET button on the
>speedometer. Release RESET button.
>The Speedometer will prove out(sweep across dial and back). The
>English/Metric and revision levels will be displayed. The last number of
>the display id the dealer mode lockout count. This count shows the number
>of allowable conversion constant changes remaining. When the count is zero
>(0), no aadditional changes can be made to this instrument cluster. If a
>revision is required a service instrument cluster must be ordered.
>Press and release RESET button again and PSOM conversion constant without
>the decimal point will be displayed followed by the word CAL.
>Press and release the odometer SELECT button as many times as necessary to
>change the conversion constant to the correct value.
>Note: Pressing and releasing the RESET button to lock in the new
>conversion constant reduces the number of times the PSOM can be
>reprogrammed by one count. If you change your mind and want to go back to
>the old conversion constant, turn the key OFF BEFORE you lock in the new
>constant.
>When the new correct value is displayed in teh odometer window, press and
>release the RESET button to lock in the new conversion constant.
>Turn the key OFF and disconnect the ground wire and check to see that the
>speedo works correctly.
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 11:39:58 PDT
From: "Jorge Ramirez"
Subject: [none]

Hello list...

Does anyone have an MSD or Jacobs ignition systems installed?

I happened across this URL, take a look...Is it live or is it memorex.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.directhits.com/perform.htm

Seems to be some kind of spark enhancer, but not MSD/Jacobs type.

Comments.....



______________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 15:25:06 EDT
From: Batstbmw aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - tires

I own a 1982 F-250 4x4 my question is, I was considering a 2 inch lift.
What is the biggest tire i could put on without a problem.
I have been told 33 inch max,but i really want 35 inch tires.
How much of a lift would i need to run the 35?
Thanks Blaine in KY.
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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 14:46:27 -0500
From: Bill Tucker
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Swap questions...

Any HELP?

I've got an 85' F150 with 302 and AOD. Of course, with only 150k mi,
it's just getting broke in...(yeah, right)

What I'd like to do is SWAP in a 70' model 302 I have built and hook it
to the AOD.

Seems most CARS have throttle controlled AOD's, but I don't see that
here... The difference in the balance weights of the two motors should
be overcome if I use original flywheel (C4) and balancer from 70'
motor... Have heard some talk of different number of block to
bellhousing bolts, but I think that's only EARLY 289's...My 70' 302 has
been fitted with DuraSpark, so I won't need late computer distributor...
85' does not have serpentine belt, so accessories should be easy...

What am I missing here? Has someone gone through this before and what
problems have you encountered?

All help will be appreciated...

Thanks, Bill

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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 16:10:53 -0500
From: "Beaman, James"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - resetting the speedo on the latr model ford.

David Butts wrote:

> How does this look for the Constant formula?
>
(Calculations deleted)

> 8.512738854 (revs/mile *108/8000) = CONSTANT for a simulated 33" tire
>
> Or basically
>
> ((63360/X*2*3.14))*(108/8000) = (136.2038/X)
>
> 136.2038/rolling radius = CONSTANT
>
That looks good and is basically how I did it and came up with 8.58.
However, when I checked my conversion constant on my truck, it was 9.84 so I
am hesitant to put in my new value of 8.29 for my new tires. I am taking
the truck on the road this weekend and I will check the error against the
interstate mile markers. Then maybe I will just adjust the conversion
constant by a similar percentage.

James Beaman
james.beaman lmco.com
Houston, Texas
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 17:12:18 -0400
From: troyw mfi.net (Troy Williams)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - CHECK ENGINE LIGHT

On 30 Jul 98, at 18:47, Matt Fitzsimmons wrote:

>At the bottom right corner of the intrument cluster. It's right beside
>the '6' on the tach on my '95. Try turning on the ignition, without
>starting the truck. Several indicator lights in the same general area
>should light up; seat belt, brake ( if the parking brake is set ), ABS (
>and will go off after a few seconds ), and Check Engine. The check engine
>light should stay lit till the engine is started. If it's not on, the
>bulb could be burned out. ( it looks like a chore to change it ) On my
>truck you can just make out the lettering even though the light is
off.

Hmmmmm, I've got an '84 and I don't have one. I've got the regular
analog guages in the instrument panel, and then across the top I've
got: shift, left turn signal, fasten seatbelts, high beams, brake, right
turn signal, and then 4x4.

You might be a redneck if... You've ever hollered, 'Rock the house,
Bubba!' during a piano recital. - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://countrycorner.home.ml.org
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 17:39:42 EDT
From: RobSweed aol.com
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - AOD's

Dave,

You wrote that you installed a drain plug in your trucks trans pan. How did
you do it? Was it a kit made for this use or did you just drill and tap it?
On my '94 I noticed an embossed area on the pan that looks like that is where
a plug would go.

Thanks in advance,

Bob
robsweed aol.com

'94 Ford F-150 SC 4X4 5.0 E4OD
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------------------------------....


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