80-96-list-digest Thursday, July 16 1998 Volume 02 : Number 245



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - RE:Towing Speed???
FTE 80-96 - RE:Car & Driver this month
FTE 80-96 - Hi Lift Jack Missile
RE: FTE 80-96 - Hi Lift Jack Missile
FTE 80-96 - RE: superduty Cat removal
FTE 80-96 - Re: 31" tires
FTE 80-96 - Weather striping
FTE 80-96 - Running rich ... the final episode
Re: FTE 80-96 - Manual stick removal
Re: FTE 80-96 - '99 SuperDuty was: Re: Suzuki4x4: Survey
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: 18 Wheelers
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: plain 86 F150
FTE 80-96 - Re: tire rubing radius arms
FTE 80-96 - Re: Pep boys tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - tires rub radius arms
FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96 - Towing Speed???
FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-Super Duty Cat Removal
FTE 80-96 - Re: Ranger vs. boat trailer

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 9:20:05 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:Towing Speed???

You can tow as fast as you want, really. Problem is, the tow dolly has no
brakes to assist you if you get into an emergency situation. I rented one
from U-Haul once and brought a friends car back from where it had broken
down. I was running about 55 when the traffic in front of me decided to
stop!
The thing jack-knifed on me and took a while to get my composure back and
clean the seat fabric out of my back sides. After that I decided it was
better to
run slower than the traffic ahead of me. Of course, running 45 on the
interstate
may get you run over. Especially around the more populated areas, such as
D.C. or Richmond. I would run at what ever speed you want and need but
make sure you leave yourself room to get everything stopped if you need to.

Hope this helps!

-Ted

P.S.- I now own a dove-tailed car trailer with electric brakes with 6-pole
hookups.
I know I can stop now!
___________
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 10:43:36 -0500
From: JJ/Rae
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Towing Speed???

We will be towing the wife's car on a Tow Dolly and when I asked what
speed should we travel at I got the standard reply, don't go over 45
mph. this seems rather slow on interstate with a 75 mph speed limit.
Does anybody have any experience towing with a tow dolly and what would
a reasonable speed be on interstate.
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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 9:27:32 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:Car & Driver this month

Is the 2.3L that weak? I don't mean that in a controversial way. I'm
curious!
I have a '87 2.9 Ranger, in which I've added booster springs to, and haul
a '70 Torino GT on a flatbed trailer all over the place. I've had no real
problems. I did buy an '68 F100 since to haul my car, but only because I
wanted
the extra mirror width. My 'lil Ranger also has 245,000 miles on it and has
never
been rebuilt. Of course the 360FE has more power, but also hurts in the MPG

area.

Later,

-Ted
___________
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Car & Driver this month

Alas, what bothered me the most was the lack of towing capacity. 2,000
pounds
compared to the Ch*vy's and T*y*ta's 5,000? No contest!
This past weekend I took our 10' aluminum boat out to South Lake Tahoe. My
poor '86 2.3L could barely make it out of the water with just the trailer.
(The trailer is roughly equal in weight to a jetski trailer, and was so
light,
it was flo
ating on its tires at one point.) I had to give it 3/4 throttle and feather
the clutch to keep the engine from stalling while pulling this trailer up a
mild launch ramp.

It's a tough compromise--I would like something that can handle 3,000 pounds
in mountainous terrain when it needs to, but still gets decent gas mileage
on
the freeway.

Anybody notice the F-350 dually a couple pages down from the shootout? Now
THAT's a truck! Sure, it gets only 11 mpg, but when you've got 6,000 pounds
of truck hauling 14,000 pounds of trailer, then you're talking about a
serious
rig!
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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 07:40:51 -0500
From: But Why
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hi Lift Jack Missile

Anybody have any ideas on how to bolt down a Hi Lift jack in a pick up with a topper so it
does not become a missile in a collision or roll over? I would like to secure it someplace
that we could still get to it easy enough when needed!

Thanks

JJ
- --
USAF Security Forces ICQ # 14108174
1997 F-250HD XLT Powerstroke Diesel 4x4, SC, SB, 5sp, 4.10,
285/75R16 BFG/MT's, K&N Filter, Lund bug deflector,
http://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1997_f250_1.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.talkcity.com/GasolineAlley/butwhy/index.html


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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 09:04:25 -0700
From: cassis
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Hi Lift Jack Missile

This might sound a little cheesey, but 4 "L"-type hooks (heavy duty ones
not little puney ones) and either 2 bungie cords or some sort of straping
system would secure it pretty safely. If you go to an Acadamy or Boat US
and look at some of there gas tank or battery straping systems for boats
and use them for your jack. Dont flame me here it's just a suggestion. Hope
this helps.

John Cassis
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

- -----Original Message-----
From: But Why [SMTP:ramprat cheyenneweb.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 1998 5:41 AM
To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com; 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hi Lift Jack Missile

Anybody have any ideas on how to bolt down a Hi Lift jack in a pick up with
a topper so it
does not become a missile in a collision or roll over? I would like to
secure it someplace
that we could still get to it easy enough when needed!

Thanks

JJ
- --
USAF Security Forces ICQ # 14108174
1997 F-250HD XLT Powerstroke Diesel 4x4, SC, SB, 5sp, 4.10,
285/75R16 BFG/MT's, K&N Filter, Lund bug deflector,
http://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1997_f250_1.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.talkcity.com/GasolineAlley/butwhy/index.html


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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 10:13:15 -0600
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: superduty Cat removal

If you take your cat off I'd like to know where you obtained a
replacement pipe section for it. Muffler shops are reticent on removing
cats and making replacement pipes. I could make one if I could find the
correct flanges. Sure wish I could find one of those "test pipes", like
JC Whitney used to sell, that would fit the PS. I talked to guy that
gutted his cat but I don't want to trash such an expensive item just in
case I need it to meet future emissions requirements.

Larry

>Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 22:53:41 -0500
>From: Michael Ruth
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - superduty Cat removal

>I have a 99 Superduty 7.3 powerstoke and I was told another new owner
>that he had his catalytic converter removed as the dealer told him it
>was not necessary. I know it reduces emissions, but in MD Diesels are
>exempt from emissions. I will not name the dealer for obvious reasons,
>but they said it would not affect anything on the truck. This guy also
>said he picked up 3 miles to the gallon!!! I am thinking of doing
>this. Can anyone tell why I should NOT do this?? Other than being
>unkind to the earth?
>thanks,
>Mike
>99 Superduty SC PS
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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 10:12:29 -0600
From: "Randy Kindler"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 31" tires

>Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 17:52:24 -0700
>From: "Barry Baker"
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - tires rub radius arms
>
>I recently installed a set of 31*10.5*15 tires on my '87 SC 4X4 F150 XLT
>Lariat (351W), and am now noticing occasional tire rub on the radius arms
>when it's really cranked. I've lot's of similar trucks running the same
>size, so I'm not quite sure what to think. It appears that the rims are
>stock.
>
>A buddy mentioned that I could adjust the turn-stops, but I'm a little
>hesitant to do this as I tow a 26' travel trailer so would like to retain
as
>much manoeuvrability as possible. Any suggestions?
I had the same problem with my old '91. I fixed it by going to an 8" rim
with a little more offset. (stock rims are 7.5") I was then able to run
32x11.50 tires with no rubbing. My '95 came with 31s from the factory and it
doesn't turn as short as the old truck did. I assume the turn stops are set
at the factory. Does anyone know where they are located. I looked, but
didn't see anything resembling a bump stop. +

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 08:39:41 -0800
From: Casey Vandor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Weather striping

This is on a '83 F-250, so it should at least be similar until '88 I
think. There is one bolt that holds the rear track in place, near the
back of the door. Roll the window down all the way, undo that bolt, and
then move the track to get the stuff in there. There was plenty of room
for me to get the old stuff out, so when the new stuff gets here, well
see if it goes in easy too. Then put the track back in position and
check to see if the window rolls up and down good. (this was on a a
truck with manual windows, I am not sure where the motor for power
windows is, and that might change things a bit) Thank jram for the tip
on how to get the stuff in.

Thanks
Casey Vandor
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Share the wealth Casey :) I too need to the weatherstripping in my
doors/windows.... whats the tricks?

Thanks,

John



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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 13:05:40 -0500 (CDT)
From: Bob Johnson
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Running rich ... the final episode

As you may recall...

I purchased my '86 Ranger SC XLT 2.9L efi V6 silver-over-gray w/red interior
from a little old lady (the original owner) about 3 weeks ago. The truck was
in excellent shape (seat covers from the time it first rolled off the lot,
used as a commuter vehicle, etc) except for the tranny, which had just gone
out. Got a great price, and had the tranny (A4LD) rebuilt. Had $1600 in the
truck at this point.

All seemed well, except the truck was running rich with a high-speed stumble
- - either an ignition or fuel delivery problem. Rotten mileage - about 14-15
mpg. Upon examining the 02 sensor, I found one wire broken and the other 2
about to break. Replacing the O2 sensor, however, did not cure the
stumble/misfire or the black smoke. Bought new cap, rotor, plugs and wires -
but didn't have time to install - a decision I was later to regret. I was
anticipating an out-of-town trip, seat-of-the-pants said drivability was
getting worse, and I was desperate to get the truck running reliably. I also
noticed that while she ran at the lower end of the temp range on the road,
in traffic she heated-up pretty quickly (by didn't overheat). So I took it
into the shop which had maintained the truck for the little old lady for the
last 12+ years. Asked them to diagnose the stumble/miss/black smoke and
check the fan clutch (it seemed loose when hot or cold, and I thought it
might need to be replaced). $70 more in parts installed or in the bag.

At the shop, they found a very dirty throttle body and air by-pass valve,
and a stored code for inadequate EGR flow. Fuel pressure tested ok. They
cleaned the throttle body and bypass valve, and said the EGR should not be
causing the rich running/high speed miss. Looking at the odometer, I saw
that they had test driven the truck for about 5 miles or less - had me a
little concerned. $80 more.

Drivability had improved - throttle response was smoother. But within 10
miles the miss and black smoke were back. A couple of days later, after a
particularly bad 40 miles, I stopped in at the shop as they opened and asked
the mechanic who had worked on the truck to take a ride so I could show him
the problem. He said he couldn't do it until later in the day. Goodbye.
They've gotten the last dollar from me.

That afternoon, 50+ miles from home in 105 degree north Texas heat, the
truck died and wouldn't start until it had cooled for about an hour. Then I
could only drive about 15-20 minutes without drivability getting real bad,
so I'd stop, cool off (the truck, not me), and go again. Finally got her
home without a tow bill, at least.

No one else in town could even look at the truck for a week or so, and I
still had that trip hanging over my head. I tested the ignition coil - it
seemed ok. Had no idea how to test the TFI module. So I took it to PEP Boys
(I AM embarassed) to diagnose. Their test confirmed the EGR flow code,
within-spec fuel pressure, a dirty throttle body (again), and a constant
LEAN from the O2 sensor. They suggested replacing the plugs, cap, rotor,
wires, egr valve, O2 sensor and cleaning the throttle body. Since I already
had the parts, they'd INSTALL the plugs for $50, and the cap and rotor for
$40 or so! The EGR was going to be around $125 (parts and labor), cleaning
the throttle body about the same, the O2 sensor the same - came to a little
more than $500! No thanks, paid for the testing - $70.

I bought and installed a new ignition coil ($20). Bought and installed a new
EGR valve ($39), and a new fan clutch ($30). Considered buying a new TFI but
was not wild about removing the distributor. Installed the cap, rotor and
plug wires (a bitch of a job without a stubby phillips-head and tiny hands,
neither of which I had - but I still wouldn't pay $90+ for someone else to
do it). Cleaned the (new) O2 sensor - a lot of carbon build-up in only a
couple of hundred miles.

Then I replaced the plugs. They looked like they may have been original -
about 97000 miles old. Heavy carbon fouling - I expected that. But wear that
gave me a .080 inch gap (.044 is spec)! Maybe this could be the cause of a
poor spark - ya think?

She fired right up, and ran smooth and strong. No miss, no stumble, no black
smoke. Two tanks (with Techron) later, and all is well. Mileage is 23 mpg,
mostly 70mph highway, some in-town, with the A/C going in 100+ degree heat.
Even in stop-and-go traffic, she maintains her cool - never higher than the
middle of normal.

Why is it that if you want it done right, you have to do it yourself?
Frustrating. I've no one to blame but myself for the wasted $$$ - neither of
the shops so much as pulled a plug! I'll never overlook the obvious again -
it's too expensive! But I love my Ranger.

Thanks to all who sent advice. Hope this message isn't too long - I promised
to let ya'll know how it worked out.

Bob
'86 Ranger
'80 F-250
'73 BMW R75/5
Other stuff too

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 14:21:12 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Manual stick removal

Casey Vandor wrote:

> I am ready to pull the tranny out, and need to remove the stick on the

>T-18. How do you remove it? My Haynes says that there is a large nut
>o take off, but all I see is the round bearing setup for the stick to
>move around in? Also, before I pull the tranny, should I support the
>rear of the engine? If so, the only place I could would be on the oil
pan,
>would I take a scrap 2x4 and place it across the bottom and a



Casey,
I just got through changing my clutch this last weekend on the
bronco. It took myself and my Dad about 8 total hours. Let me
give you a few hints.

1. Take your truck to a car wash and high pressure all the mud
and loose dirt off, or were safety goggles. I hate getting crap
in my eyes.
2. Spray all the bolts down the night before with a good rust
penetrant(ECSPECIALLY the crossmember bolts)
3. Make sure you rent a transmission jack. Yeah I know, they're
for the automatics. You just have to reconfigure it, and then
balance the xfercase and transmission right in front of where
the crossmember comes across that the xfercase is bolted too.
4. Rent for free(you get back the $86.00 deposit check) the
pilot bushing removal tool from autozone.
5. Take out the interior(Front seats, carpet/vynil floor,center console)

and remove the plate that is bolted down around the shifter. This
will allow you to get to some of the bellhousing bolts a lot easier.

Yes, I did support the engine under the oilpan with 2-4x4's. I
suppose 2x2's will work. I used 4x4's becuase of the 33's.
Sorry, I didn't remove the shifters. If your talking about removing
them to change the clutch out, you don't have to. Hope this helps.
Ask anything, and I will try and answer.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 18:13:35 -0400
From: troyw mfi.net (Troy Williams)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '99 SuperDuty was: Re: Suzuki4x4: Survey

On 14 Jul 98, at 0:12, Randy wrote:

>Troy, here's one to make your mouth water:
>Stopped at one of the local Ford Dealers last week to check out the
>'99 Super Dutys. WOW! hold on a minute while I dream a little
>longer.........ok done. They had a black and silver '99 F-350 Super
>Duty, Crew Cab Dually w/8' bed (of course) and the 7.3L Turbo
>Diesel....drool....I think I remember that putting out 500 lbs/ft of
>torque at 1700 rpm, wanna drag a mountain home next time you return
>from vacation? Anyway you can take one home for a mere 38,000 and
>change!!! Even the mirrors on these things look cool.

I wish I could afford one, I'd have one sitting out there right now. I
love the way the cabs are up so high on those things. They look a
lot more agressive than the older ones too. :) It would take some
getting used to for me. I would love to have one though/

You might be a redneck if... You are still in 5th grade and have 2 kids.
- Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://countrycorner.home.ml.org
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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 18:13:36 -0400
From: troyw mfi.net (Troy Williams)
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: 18 Wheelers

On 12 Jul 98, at 20:11, Anthony Rio wrote:

>If we're going to debate 18 wheelers... From what I see everyday on my
>interstate commute is that most accidents are auto to auto. When a
>situation does involve a tractor-trailer it is often because another
>motorist (small car, SUV, or otherwise) cut into the space that the
>semi-driver left in front of the truck to stop. Then when the boob in the
>four-wheeler hits the brakes, the truck does not have enough room to stop,
>and .... whammo.

I know, either that or they follow too closely and when the driver
has to stop, then they slam into the back end of them. It seems
the compact cars are the worst offenders there too. I see it happen
all of the time.

>Again... The type of car isn't really the cause of the accident or
>aggresivness of the driver (although it may be a huge contributing
>factor). The driver with low understanding of his vehicle and it's
>(and his or her) abilities is really where the blame should go.

I agree. That and the ones that overestimate what their vehicles
can do are the WORST offenders. I dont' think there is a single
vehicle that can stop from a reasonable speed, say 30 and over in
just a matter of four feet or so. But STILL You get those tail gaiters
that are going to get as close as they can as if they are trying to
intimidate you. Sometimes I just flash my brake lights as a
warning 'cause if I have to use my brakes and they slam into the
back of me because they are following too close, ohhhhh boy, my
neck hurts, my back hurts, WHIPLASH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)

>I just wonder how many of these crashes could be avoided by proper
>training? I know when I first to drivers education, I sat in a classroom
>most of the time and actually drove under the instructors supervision for
>a grand total of 1 hour (luckily my parents will willing to insure that I
>knew what I was doing and did not allow me to get my license until they
>felt I was ready). I don't know if it is the same everywhere else, but
>here in Illinois, you never have to retake the road portion of the drivers
>test. If you are going to be given the responsiblity of operating a piece
>of machinery that you could easily kill someone with, shouldn't you be
>required periodically to prove you can do so? Isn't a license a privledge,
>not a right? (sorry.. just my #1 pet-peeve).

I do agree. When I had taken my drivers 'ed class, I was out on
the road for a total of about six hours. There were some that didn't
get the same amount of time because of absences and that kind of
thing. Anyway, the instructors were very strict and they put you
through one hell of an obstacle course for you to prove that you
knew how to handle the vehicle before they would give you the
waiver. With that you could go down and turn in your restricted
and then pick up your operators. They have a clause in there
though. The license bureau can test anyone at random just to try
and make sure the instructors are doing their job.

>Of course to be two-faced.... I would be willing to say that everyone on
>this list, with no exceptions, has pulled at least one bone-head manuver
>at some point and time (myself included). The trick, I think, is to learn
>from it, and try to avoid it in the future. It's just to bad that some
>types of cars and trucks give some people the feeling that they can drive
>aggressive and out of their realm of expertise.

Oh, I did a bonehead manuever myself one time. I was on a pretty
busy highway, and some idiot pulled out in front of me. Rather
than hit the car (which I knew I would have) I just hit the brakes and
taken a turn at 45 MPH. My tires didn't give out which I am
thankful for. I didn't flip the truck, scared the hell out of a few other
folks that were out there on the roads though when my truck is
fishtailing a little. :)



You might be a redneck if... Your girlfriend asks you to get a six
pack and you say 'why not twelve?' - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 18:21:50 -0400
From: troyw mfi.net (Troy Williams)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: plain 86 F150

On 10 Jul 98, at 22:01, Jim Cannon wrote:

>"On the highway the front end drifts to the point that it becomes
>annoying to constantly correct the truck direction. I would like
>thoughts on what I can do, add, or replace. I'm riding on Michelin
>truck radials."

The tires might have what they call a radial tire pull. You might
want to try and rotate the tires, and then see if it pulls into a
different direction. If it doesn't, then take it down and see about the
alignment.

>Check all of your various bushings for wear. Take it to an alignment shop
>and ask them to check them all. I suspect bad radius arm bushings. They
>don't cost too much and are not too hard to replace (a day). I replaced my
>axel pivot bushings at the same time. A lot more work, but mine were shot
>so I had to do it. It could be the tires, but I doubt it. Ask the
>alignment guys to look at the wear patterns.

It could also be a tierod. I had my truck down at the alignment
shop after I bought it, and they told me the right tierod had some
play in it, but not to worry about it too much since it was very little.
It did pull a little afterward, but then it seems that when I taken it
down there a second time to get the wheel reset at center and not
turned halfway, the wheels weren't aligned properly the first time,
they had to do it again, didn't charge me anything though.


You might be a redneck if... Your bar tab always equals your
paycheck. - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 18:36:54 -0500
From: "Jram"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: tire rubing radius arms

To Barry, I have an '91 F150 4x4 with 33" tires and they rub the radius arms
also when fully cranked. I have not had any problems from this. The tires
never bind up and I am going so slow that it has not been a problem. I have
a few friend that have the same concern and nothing bad has happened to them
either. It has never torn up any of our tires either. Just the price to
pay for oversized tires with no lift kit.
Jim.

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 18:39:39 -0500
From: "Jram"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Pep boys tires

To Doug, I have run Futura Dakota tires from Pep boys on 4x4 for quiet some
time now. They are durable and ride well on my truck. And the price is
right. $260 for two BF Godrick or $150 for Futuras. Give me the Futuras any
day. Just my experience.
Jim

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 20:00:34 -0400
From: "S. Spaulding"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - tires rub radius arms

Barry,

I had the same with my '91. I switched to 31x10.50x15 BFG ATs on the
stock 7" styled wheels. I decided to ignore it, and got well over
60,000 miles on the tires with no problems. I put the next set on 8"
ARE wheels, and they do not rub.

Trucks with factory 31" tires came with 8" wheels, and the turn stops
were also adjusted differently.

If I were you, I would just remember that they rub at full lock, try not
to steer that far, and be careful when you do.

Steve S.


Barry Baker wrote:
>
> I recently installed a set of 31*10.5*15 tires on my '87 SC 4X4 F150 XLT
> Lariat (351W), and am now noticing occasional tire rub on the radius arms
> when it's really cranked. I've lot's of similar trucks running the same
> size, so I'm not quite sure what to think. It appears that the rims are
> stock.
>
> A buddy mentioned that I could adjust the turn-stops, but I'm a little
> hesitant to do this as I tow a 26' travel trailer so would like to retain as
> much manoeuvrability as possible. Any suggestions?
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 23:02:22 EDT
From: Cerveza6 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96 - Towing Speed???

In a message dated 98-07-15 06:22:13 EDT, you write:


Subject: FTE 80-96 - Towing Speed???

We will be towing the wife's car on a Tow Dolly and when I asked what
speed should we travel at I got the standard reply, don't go over 45
mph. this seems rather slow on interstate with a 75 mph speed limit.
Does anybody have any experience towing with a tow dolly and what would
a reasonable speed be on interstate.
>>

I towed a Bronco II on a dolly from Seattle to Phoenix and traveled at
70 to 75 all the way. Just checked all the tie downs every time we stopped
for gas or drinks.

Jerry O.
Mesa, Az
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 23:04:44 EDT
From: Cerveza6 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-Super Duty Cat Removal

In a message dated 98-07-15 06:22:13 EDT, you write:


but they said it would not affect anything on the truck. This guy also
said he picked up 3 miles to the gallon!!! I am thinking of doing
this. Can anyone tell why I should NOT do this?? Other than being
unkind to the earth?
thanks, >>

Try the possiblity of a $10,000 fine and a year in jail under Federal
Law.

Jerry O.
Mesa, Az
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 22:54:27 -0500
From: lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M Radecki)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Ranger vs. boat trailer

SNIP
>
>This past weekend I took our 10' aluminum boat out to South Lake
>Tahoe. My poor '86 2.3L could barely make it out of the water with
>just the trailer. (The trailer is roughly equal in weight to a jetski
>trailer, and was so light, it was floating on its tires at one point.)
> I had to give it 3/4 throttle and feather the clutch to keep the
>engine from stalling while pulling this trailer up a mild launch ramp.....

---

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