80-96-list-digest Tuesday, June 9 1998 Volume 02 : Number 207



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Liquid Tape
RE: FTE 80-96 - Liquid Tape
FTE 80-96 - Shackle Creak
Re: FTE 80-96 - 2.9L cracked heads
Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 mods.....
FTE 80-96 - Re: 7.3 Diesel Enhancements
FTE 80-96 - 7.3 Diesel Enhancement
FTE 80-96 - FS: F-150 Custom
Re: FTE 80-96 - Liquid Tape
FTE 80-96 - liquid tape
FTE 80-96 - 86 F250 4x4 Cam Bearing spin
Re: FTE 80-96 - 86 F250 4x4 Cam Bearing spin
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Backfire Problem
FTE 80-96 - RE: 85 F-350 OD
FTE 80-96 - RE: 86 TFI
FTE 80-96 - RE: AIR pumps
FTE 80-96 - Electrical Tape
RE: FTE 80-96 - Electrical Tape
FTE 80-96 - 7.3 Diesel Enhancement
Re: FTE 80-96 - 86 F250 4x4 Cam Bearing spin
RE: FTE 80-96 - Lubricants
FTE 80-96 - nice little poem
FTE 80-96 - Re: Spendy place

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Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 07:05:39 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Liquid Tape

Randy wrote:

> Wojo,
> (weren't you on Barney Miller?), anyway, I've never heard of the
> liquid tape, but I do recommend heat shrink tubing. This stuff makes
> a great seal and looks very professional.
> Later,
> Randy (Brew)

No, but same name only slightly differrent. :-)

Thanks Randy.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 07:00:26 -0500
From: John Cassis
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Liquid Tape

The stuff is liquid electrical tape, and works quite well. I've used is on
some wiring on my boat. Its not bad stuff. The finished product works
kind-of like heat shrink but alot easier to work with. You just swipe it on
with a brush and let it dry.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Randy [SMTP:runawaykid ncweb.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 1998 12:05 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Liquid Tape

Wojo,
(weren't you on Barney Miller?), anyway, I've never heard of the
liquid tape, but I do recommend heat shrink tubing. This stuff makes
a great seal and looks very professional.
Later,
Randy (Brew)

Rick Wojciechowski wrote:
>
> Hey guys,
> I am curious about something. I was looking through
> one of my tool magazines a couple of weeks ago and
> came across some stuff called liquid tape. It is supposed
> to take the place of electrical tape when connecting or
> splicing wires. Has anyone here used it ? Comments
> on its performance ?
>
> --
> Thanks,
> Rick Wojo
> '83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
> '92 Mstng 5.0L
> '95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)
>
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Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 09:25:58 -0700
From: "Bowman, John A"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Shackle Creak

I have an '83 F100 with 56,000 miles that has developed a creak or groan
where the rear most passenger side leaf spring attaches to the shackle.
You will here the noise when you push done on the rear bumper. I sprayed
some Rust Check on the area and the noise disappeared. I want to know if
there maybe something more serious going on (i.e. a bushing needing
replacement) or is regular lubrication enough?

*************************************
J.A. Bowman
'83 F100 - "Big Red"
email: jbowman MTT.CA
************************************


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Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 08:32:40 -0400
From: Chad Royse
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 2.9L cracked heads

I would take it apart before anything. It could be a blown head gasket or a cracked
head between a water jacket and one of the cylinders. To find out wich one
(cylinder), pull all your plugs and the one that is really clean is the one sucking
antifreeze.

Chad

Jayme Uldarico Newell wrote:
>
> I'm sure most people are familiar with the 2.9l ford engines having an
> engineering flaw regarding heads commonly cracking. Well I thought I was
> lucky and had an unflawed engine until last week. My head gasket has
> either blown or my heads are cracked.
> I can't find any sign of coolant in the oil/ vice-versa. I just have
> to constantly fill my radiator (about 1/2 to 1 gallon every other day)
> and water is blowing out the exhaust. But the oil looks FINE!
>
> cracked heads? probably. any advice?
>
> Also, has anyone swapped this motor out for another 2.9l? I want to do
> it as simply as possible, i.e. no rewiring, just an easy swap. If anyone
> can put me in contact with some good sources for engines I'd really
> appreciate it. I'm trying to find something that won't have the same
> problem with heads cracking. But my best guess is that anything that I
> put in will have to be a rebuilt 2.9l with the same crappy heads.
> I've heard of aftermarket heads by DART, any ideas on how to contact them?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jayme U. Newell
> Santa Cruz, CA
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Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 08:52:06 -0400
From: Chad Royse
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.8 mods.....

Hey man,
Relax, I'm not trying to slap you around. I'm merely saying, I think the 97 HD's
have a twin I-beam front end as well. Ok?

Chad

PS Your last post was on Friday, I replied to it monday. That's four days short of a
week. Just a FYI.

Ryan Dorman wrote:
>
> Must be a regional thing, because every 97 HD F-250 I've seen around here has a solid axle.
> On the other hand every light duty 96 I've seen has a twin I front end.
>
> ps drop the rest of the subject I did a week ago.
>
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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 09:14:35 EDT
From: JDavis1277 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 7.3 Diesel Enhancements

Steve,
I have a 90 7.3 to which I added the ATS (Advanced Turbo Systems) turbo and
exhaust system in 1993. This is the system which became the Ford Factory
turbo setup in 94?. I mention that because your Ford dealer can work on the
engine and get the necessary parts. I tow a fiver and made the change after
trying to merge onto the interstates in the Washington, DC area where I
resided at the time. Well, it was the best thing I've ever done to an engine.
Performance improved dramatically with little fuel economy loss. The deal is,
the turbo just spins (freewheels) unless you demand more power. When towing,
you only use more fuel when going uphill, accelerating, or driving into
headwinds. It took a few weeks for me to get over showing off at stop lights,
but then my mileage got back to normal. I have the E4OD and 4.10s in a long
bed super cab and get about 9.5 to 10 towing and around 18 to 20 on the
interstate. I do so little around town driving that I don't keep track. I've
had no problems with the system. ATS makes no wild claims of 35% more HP and
10% better fuel economy. They shoot straight without all the hype and BS of
some better known outfits. I recommend their system. Butch Davis-
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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 08:17:53 -0600 (MDT)
From: Jeff Crowell T/208-396-6525
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 7.3 Diesel Enhancement

Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 12:28:03 -0700
From: Steve Faust
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 7.3 Diesel Enhancement

>Looking for some input from anyone who has experience enhancing the 7.3
>ltr. Diesel. I have an '88 F-250 4x4 Supercab long-bed with 108,000
>miles and am trying to determine if it would be worth the $ exploring an
>after market turbo unit or other minor modifications that might given me
>bit more performance (also any recommendations for mpg improvements
>would be appreciated).

>No, "Why a Diesel when you could have had a 460" flames please... just a
>little joke guys ;-)


Hi, Steve.

My Dad bought a '90 F-250 with the 7.3L Diesel to haul a 26' Dutchman
trailer and was disappointed with how slowly the world went by on the
hills. I kept telling him to turbo the beast, and he finally did. I
can't remember for sure the name of the turbo, I think it was ATR
(American Turbo Research??), anyway it was the same kit that was
available as factory install the next year, and he was able to have
the turbo installed without voiding the warranty. Obviously warranty
isn't a concern for you, but it shows the confidence Ford has/had in
that particular setup.

Anyway, it was like someone had stuffed an extra engine under the hood!
Pretty much as before off idle, but at something like 1800 RPM the
wastegate closed and it was hang on to your hat time. That thing would
drag a trailer like nothing I ever saw. And when the truck wasn't
towing a 9000# trailer, there was nothing on the road that could pass
it on the hills. We drove to Colorado to hunt elk in '91 and driving
it was a treat. A lot of the highways there are sort of on their sides,
if you know what I mean, and the cruise was set at 65. The steeper
the hill, the speedo needle never varied. The boost gauge would
slowly increase its reading and that was about all. I don't recall
that mileage changed very much, the truck just stopped smoking on the
hills is all.

Don't know how you feel about spending a grand on that engine with
100k miles on it, though. You might try looking for a newer engine
from the recycle places... the turbo was stock after '91, if I recall
correctly. The only consistent trouble Dad had with that engine was
glow plug relays, but he sold the truck with about 120k miles on it.

Sorry to run on so long!


Jeff

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Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 15:14:09
From: Tim Clevenger
Subject: FTE 80-96 - FS: F-150 Custom

1991 F-150 Custom with less than 40k miles.
Four-speed with granny low and reverse.
Air, anti-lock, shell and towing package.
Please point your browser to
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://24.1.74.195/truck/index.htm
for details and photos. Looking to sell or
trade for Ranger.

Thanks.

Tim Clevenger


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Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 10:22:57 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Liquid Tape

John Cassis wrote:

> The stuff is liquid electrical tape, and works quite well. I've used is on
> some wiring on my boat. Its not bad stuff. The finished product works
> kind-of like heat shrink but alot easier to work with. You just swipe it on
> with a brush and let it dry.

Thanks John. Where did you find it locally rather
than having to order it ? At a Parts House ? At a
Home Center ?


Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Blasters
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 12:32:43 -0700
From: "sylvan"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - liquid tape

Outstanding stuff! I have used it for years on boats and cars. It will
completely seal any electrical connection: no corrosion! Suggest taping
connection after application. That adds an extra measure of protection
against abrasion and shock. Great value at a couple of dollars a can.

hal sylvan
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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 09:46:42 -0700
From: Michael Wray
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 86 F250 4x4 Cam Bearing spin

Well......

The 351 finally blew chunks. :( I was cruising about 65mh when all
of the sudden, the engine seems to lock, I hear some kind of grinding
noise and slam it into neutral and coast off the highway.
After looking for 3 hours to find a tow dolly, I finally got the beast
home. Pull out the distributor and find that there is (what looks like)
a cam bearing that came up and got stuck in the cam / distributor gears.
I start feeling around and find that there are some broken cast iron
pieces hanging around in there.

Now I am really bummed! OK..... So to make a long story short.... The
bad thing is we were just getting ready to trade it in on something the
family fits into (suburban). Now, we still want to get the land yacht
(suburban), but now I have to replace the engine in my truck. Anyone in
western WA have a running non-smoking 351 for sale?

Or if you know of anyone that wants to buy it as is for $7500 neg. send
me an e-mail.

Michael
michaewr attachmate.com
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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 12:57:44 -0400
From: "Christian J. Hedemark II"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 86 F250 4x4 Cam Bearing spin

Hello Michael,

Tuesday, 9 June 98, you wrote:

> Now I am really bummed! OK..... So to make a long story short.... The
> bad thing is we were just getting ready to trade it in on something the
> family fits into (suburban). Now, we still want to get the land yacht
> (suburban), but now I have to replace the engine in my truck. Anyone in
> western WA have a running non-smoking 351 for sale?

I think you're looking at this from the wrong perspective; God was
trying to stop you from making a terrible mistake by trading your Ford
in on a Ch*vy. :)

Best regards,
Christian mailto:chris yonderway.com
1987 Ford F250 - "Ugly Truckling" aka "Optimus Primer"


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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 11:16:54 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Backfire Problem

>From: "Bowman, John A"
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Backfire Problem
>
>still need advice on my backfire problem. I have an 83
>F100 302 automatic with 56,000 miles. When I accelerate
>hard and back off quickly I get a large backfire out of the
>exhaust. The truck is bone stock and
>
>snip
>
>The "anti-backfire valve" is what the Ford Dealer refers
>to the small valve in the line that runs from the air pump to
> the exhaust manifold. I am not sure how the air pump
>works or what effect the absense of the catalytic converter
> has on the problem? I am looking for some answers.

Yo John:

The "anti-backfire valve" is also referred to as a diverter valve; it
diverts the air that is normally injected into the exhaust gas stream to
the atmosphere (i.e., dumps the air instead of injecting it). The diverter
operates on vacuum signals. At low manifold vacuum, which corresponds to
open throttle acceleration, air is injected into the exhaust gas stream to
aid in post-combustion of any unburned hydrocarbons left over from a rich
fuel/air mixture. When high manifold vacuum is present, such as during
idle or closed throttle deceleration, the diverter dumps the air provided
by the air pump so as to avoid the backfiring that would result from extra
O2 injected into the over-rich exhaust gas mixture produced at closed
throttle.

Even w/out the air pump, some backfiring would occur under closed throttle
deceleration conditions if there was any overlap at all between exhaust and
intake lobes on the cam (which would allow a little hot exhaust gas to be
sucked back up through the intake port to ignite the incoming fuel air
mixture).

When a 2-way catalytic converter is present, the additional air injected by
the air pump and diverter valve provides extra O2 to the cat to help it
operate more efficiently at converting unburned HCs and CO. Even w/out the
cat, though, the added O2 helps w/ post-combustion to reduce HCs. That's
why eventually the EPA mandated air pumps even on higher GVW trucks that
didn't require cats (like Randy's).

As for helping your backfire problem, the cheapest and simplest solution
would be to disable the air pump. Probably the easiest way to do that is
disconnect the drive belt. Doing this may compromise your emissions
legality, though. Check your local laws. Even w/ the air pump disabled,
you might still have backfire problems.

>From: Randy
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Backfire Problem
>
>Ok, this brings me to a question, gang,
>My '87 F-250HD has no converter (factory non-catalyst).
>BUT, it has TWO A.I.R. pumps on it. I thought this was to
>compensate for the lack of a converter, but I don't really
>even understand what the pumps do.

Yo Randy:

See description above.

>I can't remember what it even stands for, but if I remember
>right it takes excess gas from the exhaust manifolds and
>pumps it back to the carb, is this right or wrong?

A.I.R. stands for Air Injection Reaction. You're thinking of EGR (Exhaust
Gas Recirculation), wherein a small amount of exhaust gas is recovered from
the exhaust ports or manifold and recirculated into the fuel/air mixture,
usually via a spacer between the carb and manifold.

>I've been looking for headers for my truck for some time
>now that incorporate the A.I.R. hook-ups, but can't find any.
>I know you can by the add-on kit and weld it, but
>will only do that if I run out of other options. So how does
>the A.I.R. system help w/emissions? It has to pass tailpipe
>inspection so is there a way to bypass the system and still
>pass or not?

In short; maybe.

The AIR system helps reduce unburned HCs in the exhaust gas by adding a
little extra O2 to contribute to post-combustion. For this to work, the
air has to be injected pretty soon after the exhaust gas leaves the
cylinder head, so the gas still has sufficient heat to allow further
combustion. If it's injected too far downstream, it won't do anything. If
your truck uses a feedback fuel metering system (such as EFI or a feedback
carburetor), its computer uses an O2 sensor in the exhaust gas stream to
measure remaining O2 in the exhaust gas, which means a too-lean mixture.
In that case, air injection has to take place downstream of the O2 sensor,
so it doesn't confuse the computer.

Most tailpipe e-tests take one measurement at idle and another at a higher
engine speed (usually 2500 - 3000 rpm). The tailpipe tests look for
unburned HCs, CO, and maybe CO2 and O2. A tailpipe test can only measure
gases in parts per million (i.e., the relative concentration of the
chemicals they're looking for).

If you remove or disable the air pump(s), your carbureted truck may not be
able to pass the tailpipe test because of excess unburned HCs, especially
if it's set up to run a little rich, which is generally viewed as good for
performance. Running a little lean is good for emissions, and thus the
conflict. You might be able to lean out the carb some for the e-test, or
you could disable the EGR to lean out the mixture (fresh air w/ O2
displaces the exhaust gas normally injected by the EGR system), but then
you're getting deeper into monkeying w/ things and more likely to have
other problems or get into trouble w/ the e-cops. If the area you live in
does visual inspections, they might not like to see emissions devices
disabled.

Perhaps you could temporarily disable your air pumps and attempt an
emissions test. In most places, if you fail an e-test, you get a free or
reduced-cost re-try.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 10:51:10 -0700
From: Steve Faust
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: 85 F-350 OD

Mark Taynton wrote:
> Someone suggested the over drive transmission instead of
> a after market tail piece type OD. Any suggestions on results or
> reliability?

I'm running a 7.3 ltr Diesel with the C6 - 410 combo (boy does it scream
for another gear on the freeway) and plan on going with the Gear Vendors
Over/Under Drive unit as soon as I save a little $. They happen to be
local for me here (San Diego area), and I've heard nothing but good
things. Here are a couple of sites you can check out
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.gearvendors.com/gv2wh.htm (theirs) or http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ericsrv.com
(select the Gear Vendors button under 'products' on this site - an
independent dealer but has application and pricing guide)

If you find some additional info on a different type (non tail piece)
please forward as I am also looking for a solid solution.

Steve Faust
'88 F-250



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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 10:48:30 -0700
From: "Posluszny, Walt (posl)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: 86 TFI

Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 11:37:25 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - No fire

Sorry, its an '86

RICK, you're friends truck is definitely a TFI unit then. Walt
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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 10:46:47 -0700
From: "Posluszny, Walt (posl)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: AIR pumps

From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Backfire Problem

[snip] So how does the
A.I.R. system help w/emissions?
Thanks,
Randy (Brew)

RANDY,

The A.I.R. pump puts ambient air(oxygen) into the exhaust manifolds right
outside the exhaust valve ports where the exhaust gases are the hottest.
What this does is to facilitate additional burning of any residual
hydrocarbons that did not get completely burned in the power stroke of your
engine. Adding the air to the remaining hydrocarbons in such a hot
environment completes the fire triangle and continues the combustion process
right there in the exhaust manifolds. Usually there is not too much residual
H.C. left after ignition but it sounds like the valving on the air injection
system might be malfunctioning(anti-backfire valve, loose vacuum hose,
etc...), or your engine may be running way too rich or you may have a burned
exhaust valve. The anti-backfire valve(if you have one, or even two) is the
most likely cause, It is easily replaced from the junkyard or dealer and
they do go bad. What do they do? Since the air pumps run continuously, the
injected air must be dumped(to atmosphere) during certain driving modes.
For example, when you first let off the accelerator, there may be a
momentary richness in the cylinders, if this condition is too rich and the
air is still being injected, the extra, unburned fuel will burn(much more
violently due to the amount of fuel) in the exhaust manifolds causing a
backfire.

You can check your Anti-Backfire value by letting the engine idle and then
applying vacuum to the nipple with a hand held vacuum pump. It should cause
the system to dump the air and you will hear it. You may also want to check
a manual for the 'correct' ford approved procedure for checking these.
Sorry for the long post. Hope it helps. Walt

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Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 14:26:45 -0500
From: Stephen Hansen
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Electrical Tape

Another great tape to work with is called F-4 tape (in the Air Force).
It's a black heavy tape that stretches like a rubber band and only
sticks to itself. Wrap a wire harness with it, and if for some reason
you need to get back into it, a simple slice down the length of it and
the tape peels away from the wire leaving no sticky stuff to tend with.
I got several rolls from the used junk sales office (DRMO), but it's
expired and most of the sticky is gone. I would like to find a source
for this in the real world.. Anyone know of a source?
Steve
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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 14:00:01 -0600
From: Dave Armbruster
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Electrical Tape

If I thinking of the right stuff, I believe I've heard it called
Friction Tape. I haven't tried to find it lately, but I figured you'd
be able to get it any electronics supply, maybe even Radio Shack. I
know 3M has a tape called splicing compound tape that is used for
coaxial splices, which is rubber-based, very high stretch and self
bonding that gives a void-free connection. It's 3M/Scotch type numbers
are 2242 and 130C.

Dave
Denver, CO
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stephen Hansen [SMTP:shansen minot.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 1998 1:27 PM
> To: 80-96-list
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Electrical Tape
>
> Another great tape to work with is called F-4 tape (in the Air Force).
> It's a black heavy tape that stretches like a rubber band and only
> sticks to itself. Wrap a wire harness with it, and if for some reason
> you need to get back into it, a simple slice down the length of it and
> the tape peels away from the wire leaving no sticky stuff to tend
> with.
> I got several rolls from the used junk sales office (DRMO), but it's
> expired and most of the sticky is gone. I would like to find a source
> for this in the real world.. Anyone know of a source?
> Steve
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Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 17:24:53 -0500
From: Pete Kraus
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 7.3 Diesel Enhancement

Steve Faust is

>. . . Looking for some input from anyone who has experience
>enhancing the 7.3 ltr. Diesel . . .

So am I, but from a slightly different perspective. I'm not particularly
interested in going the turbo route with my '89 F250 4x4, but I'd like to
reduce the utterly needless highway revs at highway speeds. The 7.3's
maximum torque rating occurs at something like 1400 rpm. I'm running
over 3000 at 65 mph, thanks to the non-overdrive but otherwise gutsy
C6 automatic and 4.10 gears.

A 5-speed manual would have avoided the problem, but I bought the
beast used. Has anyone successfully installed an aftermarket overdrive
unit with this drivetrain? I looked into the matter briefly some years ago
and was told by a transmission shop that there wasn't enough room to
fit one (maybe because of the transfer case?).

Steve, what sort of fuel mileage are you currently getting? I average
around 15mpg, not disgraceful for such a big, heavy vehicle, but I think
it could do better with proper gearing.

Pete
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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 16:37:40 -0500
From: bmrickman juno.com (brian k rickman)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 86 F250 4x4 Cam Bearing spin

On Tue, 9 Jun 1998 09:46:42 -0700 Michael Wray
writes:
>Well......
>
The 351 finally blew chunks. Anyone in western WA have a
running non-smoking 351 for sale?
>
>Or if you know of anyone that wants to buy it as is for $7500 neg.
>send
>me an e-mail.
>
>Michael
>michaewr attachmate.com
>-----------------------------------------
You should be able to find a used 302 pretty cheap and easily. Put that
in instead. On trade-ins dealers usually don't care what's in them
anyway.
Plus you may be able to sell misc brackets and stuff so someone.
Going with a GM huh? Oh well.

Brian Rickman bmrickman juno.com
91 Explorer 4X4 EB AOD
81 F100 2wd 351w AOD

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Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 17:06:27 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Lubricants

Lubriplate.


Jon wrote:
"What's a good, less expensive substitute for "Ford Long Life
Lubricant"?
It'll be used for lubing the automatic transmission linkage on my '94
F-150."

- --

Jim Cannon
Houston, Texas

Listen to "Car Talk" on National Public Radio
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.cartalk.com/
"Celebrating 10 Years of Bad Car Advice"
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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 14:25:01 -0800
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - nice little poem

Ive been away awhile now, just reading the posts a little bit between jobs,
I liked the poem though.

Thanks
Casey


>>>>>>>
See Casey's truck run,
run, run, run
See Casey's truck die,
die, die, die
See Casey cry,
cry, cry, cry

:D hehe

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 14:28:36 -0800
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Spendy place

It is extremely spendy to live here, but it is more than worth it. not many
people next to no crime, stuff to do... great scenery, on and on, just not....


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