80-96-list-digest Tuesday, June 2 1998 Volume 02 : Number 195



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Performance
FTE 80-96 - Re: Brake Fluid Change
FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio
RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Performance
Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio
Re: FTE 80-96 - 82 F250 4x4 problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio
FTE 80-96 - 1994 Ranger stutter problems
FTE 80-96 - F-150 tire brands
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1994 Ranger stutter problems
FTE 80-96 - Chris Kelley
RE: FTE 80-96 - 300cid I-6 Performance?
Re: FTE 80-96 - axle seals
FTE 80-96 - RE:C-bushings (was:mirror buttons and such)
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:C-bushings (was:mirror buttons and such)
FTE 80-96 - 460 Engine Question
Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio
Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio

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Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 09:03:42 -0400
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Performance

>Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998 06:55:26 -0600 (MDT)
>From: Jeff Crowell T/208-396-6525
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Performance

>Hey, Mike and Gene.

>Nice to see some discussion about the 300 ci engine. I have a >93
S-cab 4X4 F-150, and have been leaning toward the header >installation.
Mike, what sort of performance improvements, if >any, have you seen
since installing the headers? Whose >headers are they (i.e. is there
anyone besides Clifford who >makes 6-banger headers)? What's your
opinion of the design of >the headers? I'm kinda stuck in the old "while
you got it >open" syndrome... I mean, while it's all torn apart anyway,
>why not stuff a new cam in there? If you're doing that, you >really
should upgrade the valvetrain. Gee, what about the >timing chain. And
so on. I don't have a gazillion bucks to >spend, so the total cost is a
worry.

>Thanks for any comments.
>Jeff

My header is made by Headman & my intake by Offenhauser. I like the
design of the header, equal length pipes in which the front 3 and back 3
pipes collect together giving you a true duel exhaust. But the paint job
wasn't very good. It bubbled up and burned off 10 min. after I fired it
up for the first time. Don't use the paper gasket they give you either,
use a metal backed one, It burned thru that almost as quickly. I had to
pull it back off, sand blast it & repaint. Not fun. I would really
consider getting a coated header or at least painting it yourself first
with good quality paint. The performance improvements were like night
and day. My truck has 190,000 miles on it(about 40,000 with the
performance parts), it's never been rebuilt and runs great. I was very,
very happy. I seen an ad in a magazine that claims 50hp over stock with
the intake manifold alone and 115hp with the addition of headers and a
cam. I didn't think a new cam was necessary, since the stock one seems
to work great for me. I didn't want to tear into my motor either. I paid
$190 for the intake and $150 for the header. Hope this helps.
Mike
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Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 09:13:37 EDT
From: JDavis1277 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Brake Fluid Change

If you are losing brake fluid rapidly enough to change it every couple of
years by topping up the cylinder you probably have a leak. Get it fixed, and
then change the fluid periodically. An easy way to change the fluid by
yourself is to get a section of clear plastic windshield wiper hose or similar
which will fit tightly over the brake cylinder bleeder valve. Length varies
according to how high above the ground the bleeder valve is located.
Generally, about 2 feet should do. Fill a clear bottle with enough brake
fluid to cover the bottom of the hose when inserted into the bottle. Use a
large bottle the first time you do this. Beginning with the wheel farthest
from the master cylinder, attach the hose to the valve, insert it into the
bottle with the end below the level of the fluid. Open the bleeder valve
without disturbing the hose. Pump the brakes a couple of times. Top up the
master cylinder with new fluid. Check the level of fluid in the bottle.
Repeat the process until you get clean fluid in the hose. If it becomes
necessary to empty the bottle, close the bleeder valve first, then start over
again with that valve. Continue to the next farthest wheel cylinder until you
have completed the job. Its important to keep the master cylinder topped up
during this process because the whole point of the exercise is to prevent the
introduction of air into the brake system. Butch Davis-
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Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 09:19:23 -0400
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio

How do you go about changing the gears in a rear diff?
Do you need any special tools? Is it fairly simple?
What about adding a locking or limited slip diff?
I have an '86 f-150 2wd with the stock rear end, 3.08 gears.
I have 31x10.5 tires which are larger than the stock p235x75r15 tires.
Thanks,
Mike
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Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 10:12:24 -0400
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Performance

I just called the parts store where I ordered mine from. He said he
could order one for me for in the mid one hundred dollar range (for a
Headman).
The parts store is
Auto Parts Unlimited
3023 N. East Street
Lansing, Michigan 48906
1-517-487-6200

Jeg's High Performace mail order. 1-800-345-4545
sells one for $109 for a Walker-Blackjack Style header.
I'm sure they sell the Headman header also.

-----Original Message-----
From: Sean Winters [mailto:swinters pritchettnet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 1998 9:58 AM
To: 'mikej granger-co.com'
Subject: FW: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Performance

Hey Mike,

You and I have talked about this before. I have the 82
stepside with
the 300-6. Where did you find the header for $150??? All
the prices I
have seen have been *at least* $250...sometimes more.

Sean Winters
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 10:42:42 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio

At 09:19 AM 6/2/98 -0400, you wrote:
>How do you go about changing the gears in a rear diff?
>Do you need any special tools? Is it fairly simple?
>What about adding a locking or limited slip diff?
>I have an '86 f-150 2wd with the stock rear end, 3.08 gears.
>I have 31x10.5 tires which are larger than the stock p235x75r15 tires.
>Thanks,
>Mike

No special tools, and its pretty simple. Block the front
tires in front and behind them. Losen the nuts on the front
of the diff. and take off the joint. Put the rear end up on
jack stands, take the tires off. Unbolt the axle ends from
the axle tube. Slide the axles out about 2 inches. Take
the nuts off the diff, pull diff out (use a rolling jack,
its heavy) and put another one in. Installation is the
reverse of this. First time ought to take 2-3 hours. Second
time will take 45 minutes, if you've got someone to help,
it can be accomplished, with practice, in 15 minutes.
Putting a locker in should be the same as an open end.

Ken Payne

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Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 10:54:32 -0400
From: Chad Royse
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 82 F250 4x4 problems

I think you should come to a complete stop and shift into Park before going to 4lo.
Doing that all but guarantees you that nothing is spinning in the transfer case.

Chad

ToddRPM aol.com wrote:

> Hello everyone.
> I recently bought an 82 F250 4x4 with 351/c-6. After driving it down the
> freeway last Friday and returning home (about a 75 mile round trip) I tried to
> put the truck in 4-low. I could not get the truck shifted into any drive gear
> after I pulled it out of 2H. Grind, Grind, Grind. If I shut the truck off,
> put it into Park, I could put the truck in any 4x4 mode I wanted, then turned
> truck on and away I went, I just couldn't shift it while truck was running, in
> neutral of course. Any ideas what causes the transfer case to grind? Thanks.
> toddrpm aol.com
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 11:06:18 -0400
From: "Bruce A. Ramirez"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio

What about setting the backlash on the ring and pinion?

Ken Payne wrote:
>
> At 09:19 AM 6/2/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >How do you go about changing the gears in a rear diff?
> >Do you need any special tools? Is it fairly simple?
> >What about adding a locking or limited slip diff?
> >I have an '86 f-150 2wd with the stock rear end, 3.08 gears.
> >I have 31x10.5 tires which are larger than the stock p235x75r15 tires.
> >Thanks,
> >Mike
>
> No special tools, and its pretty simple. Block the front
> tires in front and behind them. Losen the nuts on the front
> of the diff. and take off the joint. Put the rear end up on
> jack stands, take the tires off. Unbolt the axle ends from
> the axle tube. Slide the axles out about 2 inches. Take
> the nuts off the diff, pull diff out (use a rolling jack,
> its heavy) and put another one in. Installation is the
> reverse of this. First time ought to take 2-3 hours. Second
> time will take 45 minutes, if you've got someone to help,
> it can be accomplished, with practice, in 15 minutes.
> Putting a locker in should be the same as an open end.
>
> Ken Payne
>
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Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 13:22:32 -0400
From: Craig Butler
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1994 Ranger stutter problems

I've got a 1994 Ranger. The problem is that for the last few weeks it infrequently bucks and stutters (misfires) upon moderate and hard acceleration. It is usually in 2,3 and 4th gear. If I back off the pedal, it quits. Here is a list of what I've done so far to try and fix it:

Spark plugs
plug wires
oxygen sensors
fuel filter
air filter
PVC valve

I am beginning to think that it may be a vacuum leak. Any thought form the lsit on what it may be/how to fix it??

Craig Butler

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Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 12:27:16 -0700
From: Jon Berman
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F-150 tire brands

Hello,

I'm looking to replace the tires on my 1994 Ford F-150, 2wd, and need
some suggestions on tire brands. I currently have 30x9.50r15 BF Goodrich
tires on it. I want to go up to a 31x10.50r15 or P265/75r15 size. I'm
looking for a combination of nice ride quality with a semi-aggressive
tread pattern (it spends about 95% of the time on pavement). Any advice
or experience on different brands with the F-150 trucks?

Thank you,
Jon
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Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 16:18:28 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1994 Ranger stutter problems

I've got a 1994 Ranger. The problem is that for the last few weeks it
infrequently bucks and stutters (misfires) upon moderate and hard
acceleration. It is usually in 2,3 and 4th gear. If I back off the
pedal, it quits. Here is a list of what I've done so far to try and
fix it:
>
> Spark plugs
> plug wires
> oxygen sensors
> fuel filter
> air filter
> PVC valve
>
> I am beginning to think that it may be a vacuum leak. Any thought form the lsit on what it may be/how to fix it??

Maybe the TPS(throttle positioning sensor)...happened on my Escort GT.
If you think its something like that though don't guess just have the
computer scanned...the key is that you have to get the truck to have the
problem while scanning it or it will not sense anything wrong. I don't
know about your 94 but 87 GT the engine light never come on even thought
the tps was bad.
Thanks
Chris
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Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 16:34:52 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Chris Kelley

I saw Kens pics of your truck from Pigeon Forge and I was wondering
where you got your grille?
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Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:47:57 -0400
From: D Robertson
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 300cid I-6 Performance?

Mike:
>is an '86, so yours is probably pretty well rusted together also.
Just a 4 bbl. Hope this helps.
>
I also have an 86 w/ 4.9L , I was wondering about a couple of things. How
did you handle the O2 sensor and the feedback carb stuff? Do you have to
deal with emmissions inspections. What size 4 bbl did you use ? I just
ordered a brand new 1 bbl carb for mine , The carb from the dealer was $
500 (I'm getting from a mechanic for $350 still big $$) I also was thinking
of using a exhaust manifold from a later model 4.9 L , they look like real
a header and have a hole for the 02 sensor. I could not figure how to hook
up the computer control with the 4bbl set up. I really enjoy hearing about
big six performance . I'm sure someone out there has put a turbo on of
these.

Dave
86 F-150 , 4.9L ,140K miles, 2wd


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Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 14:47:29 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - axle seals

>From: Batstbmw aol.com
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - axle seals
>
>Never heard any responces on my rear pinion seal leak.
>The answer is it cost 100 dollars to fix not bad i thought.
>But after driving to work that leak has stopped,but there
>is still fluid all over the rear end and inside of the tires.
>Do you think it could be the axle seals, does that mean
>its leaking through the brakes and then slinging out that
>way or what?

Yo Blaine:

A couple years ago, when the pinion nut came loose on my rear differential,
the pinion seal was munched when the pinion shaft slipped out of place.
Luckily, there was no gear or bearing damage in the diff, but it lost a lot
(1.5-2 qts) of gear oil by the time I got to the shop. Seemed like the
entire underside of the truck was coated w/ diff gear oil from the pinion
yoke back, top to bottom, side to side. All that oil was slung out by the
pinion shaft when the oil leaked past the bad seal. Try cleaning up under
your truck and then watch for new/other leaks. From your description, it
sounds to me like just the mess left over from the pinion seal leaking.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 14:58:46 -0600
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:C-bushings (was:mirror buttons and such)

> had my mirror on my Eddie Bauer 95 Bronco fall off twice now LOL
> also-anyone have problems with the passenger side control arm
> bushings??? I've
> heard a few people have...and I'm one of em...Ford won't do anything
> about it-
> my truck started showing signs of deterioration at about 37,000 miles
> and now
> at 43,000-it's really bad-so bad that the alignment is off-this costs
> about
> 200 bucks in labor for a pair of bushings that cost about 10-20
> bucks....Sean
>
Sean,

Could you be talking about the Castor/Camber bushings in the ball
joints?

I just put my recently acquired "95 F-150 in the alignment shop to fix
the
right pull/tire wear problem and I got nailed with a 250.00 alignment
estimate
to correct the castor/camber. I have about 39K miles on my truck and
I'm wondering if it has something to do with the control arm bushings
and
the problem isn't the castor/camber bushings!

I don't understand how this could have existed for so long the way it is
without someone noticing the pull to the left unless something is
wearing
out or it was hit hard. I have heard some talk about Ford trucks not
holding
an alignment for any length of time and I'm curious if anyone else has
experienced this.

I did some research and discovered that Ford trucks come from the
factory
with the alignment out. Ford gives you the first year to figure it out
for yourself,
If you contact them within that time they fix it with a castor/camber
kit that
includes two (2) C-bushings that replace the ones in the ball joints.

I called NAPA and found the bushings for about 11.50 bucks each. I then
called a friend who knows someone at an alignment shop and told him the
measured wheel angles for my truck and he suggested I get a 1-1/4 deg
(they come in 1/4 degree increments) C-bushing and replace only the
left side. I plan to tear it apart myself and replace it, then run it
down to
the alignment shop to have them do the toe-in.

This seems to be a big problem and I never hear anything about it on
this list.

Scott

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Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 18:30:07 EDT
From: MillrBeer aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:C-bushings (was:mirror buttons and such)

I haven't heard about the castor/camber prob...but the rubber bushing I'm
talking about is on the control arm where it attaches to the frame-very close
to where the exhaust runs...I wonder if the heat deteriorates the rubber? I
have noticed on trucks that don't have the problem I have, that they have a
metal "cover" over the bushing that mine doesn't have....
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Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 18:34:01 -0400
From: Stacy Fisher
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 460 Engine Question

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BD8E55.036113E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello Everyone,
=20
I have a question about a 460 engine that I am hoping someone can help =
me with. I have a 1984 Ford F-150 4x4 that I am currently in the =
process putting a 460 into. The 460 motor that I have came out of a =
1978 Mercury Marquis. Because the engine that I have came out of a car, =
the oil pan is wrong. As I'm sure you all know, in the car, the oil pan =
is shallow in the rear and deep in the front, and for the truck it is =
the exact opposite. The problem is that the oil diptick is located on =
the front of the 460, and when I replace the oil pan to put the motor =
into the truck, the diptick will no longer be sticking into the deep end =
of the pan like it should. Does anyone know of a solution to fix this =
problem?
=20
Thanks,
=20
Stacy Fisher

"'84 Ford F-150 4x4, Ford Trucks Built Ford Tough"

- ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BD8E55.036113E0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable






http-equiv=3DContent-Type>




Hello Everyone,
 
I have a question about a 460 engine =
that I am=20
hoping someone can help me with.  I have a 1984 Ford F-150 4x4 that =
I am=20
currently in the process putting a 460 into.  The 460 motor that I =
have=20
came out of a 1978 Mercury Marquis.  Because the engine that I have =
came=20
out of a car, the oil pan is wrong.  As I'm sure you all know, in =
the car,=20
the oil pan is shallow in the rear and deep in the front, and for the =
truck it=20
is the exact opposite.  The problem is that the oil diptick is =
located on=20
the front of the 460, and when I replace the oil pan to put the motor =
into the=20
truck, the diptick will no longer be sticking into the deep end of the =
pan like=20
it should.  Does anyone know of a solution to fix this=20
problem?
 
Thanks,
 
Stacy Fisher
 

size=3D2>"'84 Ford=20
F-150 4x4, Ford Trucks Built Ford =
Tough"

- ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BD8E55.036113E0--

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Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 18:54:54 -0400
From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio

- ----------
> From: Ken Payne

> >How do you go about changing the gears in a rear diff?
> >Do you need any special tools? Is it fairly simple?
> >What about adding a locking or limited slip diff?

> No special tools, and its pretty simple. Block the front
> tires in front and behind them. Losen the nuts on the front
> of the diff. and take off the joint. Put the rear end up on
> jack stands, take the tires off. Unbolt the axle ends from
> the axle tube. Slide the axles out about 2 inches. Take
> the nuts off the diff, pull diff out (use a rolling jack,
> its heavy) and put another one in. Installation is the
> reverse of this. First time ought to take 2-3 hours. Second
> time will take 45 minutes, if you've got someone to help,
> it can be accomplished, with practice, in 15 minutes.
> Putting a locker in should be the same as an open end.
>
> Ken Payne

Not to bust on ya here Ken but I think this guy is asking about how to
change the ring and pinion and/or change to a different carrier not just
swap out a chunk.

So, seeing that you drive a 86 F-150 and that most likely does not have the
venerable 9" with removable housing, which does make setting up a new ring
and pinion a little easier as you can do it on the bench, and regardless to
do the job safely and and correctly for wear etc. my best advice to you is
to obtain the correct Ford shop manual or unit repair manual and "do it by
the numbers". If nothing else this will show you what you are thinking
about getting into here. It's not to difficult but more than could written
here and have you get it right the first time. You will need a few tools
you may not have such as a dial indicator and a torque wrench etc. Good
luck and as you get into it or are still just trying to make that decision,
post your questions.. We'll try to help..


John Miller, FoMoCoNUT Gibralter.net
96 F-350 Reg Cab XLT, 4x4, 460 w/ A4OD, My Baby "Baloo"
75 F-100 Reg Cab Ranger, 2wd, 360, C6, Daily Driver "Lucy"
and "always" looking ! ! !
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Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 17:47:48 -0600
From: Ryan Dorman
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio

3.08??? wierd, every 80's 150 I have dealt with has had 3.50's.
If you plan on adding a locker, I would suggest going out and finding a
OFF-ROAD, Petersons
4wd & Off Road or similar magazine, flip thru it looking at the adds, there
should be several differant companies selling pre assembeled "Locker kits"
(locker diff, ring & pinion, bearings, dropout) , find one you and your
wallet can agree on and buy it...

Changeing gears in a pre-existing dropout is a painstaking task that must
be done correctly
( I recomend having a shop do it if you dont have the specialized
instruments and tools)
Not a simple or fast project...
Good luck

Mike Johnson wrote:

> How do you go about changing the gears in a rear diff?
> Do you need any special tools? Is it fairly simple?
> What about adding a locking or limited slip diff?
> I have an '86 f-150 2wd with the stock rear end, 3.08 gears.
> I have 31x10.5 tires which are larger than the stock p235x75r15 tires.
> Thanks,
> Mike....


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